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Replacing a Crank Sensor on a 2.4 Honda Accord
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2023
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Ok… time for an Army lesson.. 😂 C = Charlie K = Kilo P = Papa M = Mike. Love and miss you!!
All branches really
@@KendrasEdge757 he just knows I was in the Army… he’s my brother in law 🤣
@@APOKreations lol oh nice!
Hi Kenny. I chased this problem for a bit on an accord before I spoke to a friend who is a Honda tech. Turned out the aftermarket starter caused the issue because it was turning the engine at not the correct rpm during startup. I ended up putting in an oem starter from honda and BOOM, problem immediately fixed!
Wow AMAZING findings and worthwhile information
I thoroughly enjoy the process of the repair jobs you take on , you’re like a doctor caring for his patients, only concerned about a job well done. 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏🎃💯🔥🍻
Wow. I haven’t heard that in a long time. You definitely said something that only old Chrysler Techs would know. A604 Transmission. 😀.
I have been in a CDJ dealership Parts Department for 30 years.
Nice way to spend your Saturday Mr Kenny but I've done it myself so I hope you have a wonderful weekend anyway
I had an intermittent problem with my cam sensor on a 03 hyundai. Slapped a new one in and all was good. so now you say; it could have been a bad connection. My thought also, so I put the old one back in to verify. Yup original has a intermittent problem in of itself.
Nice video! If the code returns, a weak or aftermarket starter can cause ckp trouble codes. If you see cranking speed only 150 rpm or less with a good fully charged battery and good cables, you need a starter. Then perform the ckp relearn.
On the older Honda Acura, you only need to unbolt the crank pulley, keep a bungee cord tension pulling it upward to the open hood, and then change the CMP CKP Sensor without totally pulling the belt out. As an extra precaution, you can jam a long rubber hose down to the belt tensioner area to prevent the tensioner from taking up any slack created from unbolting the one pulley and accidentally allowing slack in the belt. Remember the old Honda Distributors with 3 sensors inside, (4cyl engine) a Cylinder ID with 1 tooth, TDC with 4 teeth, and RPM with several teeth. Not all cars are called CKP and CMP, I may be off a little with my names also. I kept many of these dizzy to swap parts around, later in years I found the oil seal for sale and the main bearing for sale separately as it is not good to reuse these parts as easily as the reluctor teeth or the pickups.
Keep/give the old sensor to the customer.
Agreed It may just have been a loose connection since it's confirmed that the new sensor is OK (for now)
Aftermarket sensors sometimes don't last as long as the OEM ones, especially with Japanese models and some domestic models as well
(at least with the Nissan Altima group I'm in) some owners learned that the aftermarket ones fail after about a year or so
Yep. Sensors always oem ESPECIALLY with Japanese, but honestly I’d go oem for all sensors in any vehicle. A lot of the chinesium ones fail after awhile like you said.
I’ve had chain stores aftermarket sensors not work right out of the box or only last a few months
@@j.b.9895 you & I both. I’ve bought a handful of starters and alternators that didn’t work out of the box as well.
3\49 anyone else spot the mouse on the wall behind Kenny,s head ????
I couldn't find it
Several of the dodge chryslers had a tsb on the crank sensor having intermittent issues. They recommend upgrading to new gold plated pins in a new pigtail so it makes a tight connection. Maybe hondoo has the same issue
Fievel is in there intermittently snacking on the wiring😀
Could be a loose connection, a broken wire, or similar.
Crank sensors are typically "Hall effect" - which uses a magnetic field to operate - which is effected by temperature. So while usually very reliable the failure mode is OFTEN "random" related to engine temperature. So no fault at start or even just at normal temp, until heat soak builds up - then fails. On cool down works OK.
With Hondas putting aftermarket starters on them causes longer than normal cranking and causes to throw crank sensor codes that’s why when they come to the shop and it has after market starters we replace them to start with then go from there
Step by step and cking connectors,plus scan ck ! Aged sensor-probable cause! Was reading others comments? After market starters causing crank sensor signals? And starter recently replaced? Your input on that - Thank you!
the starter can cause stuff like that something with emi
Where do you located transmission solenoid sensor in an Honda CR-V 2017?
Parts cannon fired. OEM or Dorman part? If DTC returns in a few days then what?
the problem is the after market starter they turn the fly wheel to slow causing a p0339 ckp interruption code a new or Honda reman starter will fix the problem
If autozone says needs a crank sensor then it must be true 😅😅😅😅
I would think car would have history of misfires with bad crank sensor. I chased a misfire as well and ended up crank sensor was bad but no code on a gmc pickup.
Ok...lots of talk... did the crank sensor fix it? Did the customer get back to you?
I was surprised when I found out that it takes 5.7 hours to put a water pump on the new model Honda Accords the 1.5-2.0 engines
Papa
Shit happens!