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440 MOPAR Big Block Engine Building - Timing the Intermediate Shaft to the Distributor and Oil Pump
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- Опубликовано: 8 авг 2018
- Timing the intermediate shaft between the oil pump and the distributor with the cam gear.
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I love Petes videos, but thought I'd offer this Factory Chrysler service manual tip on BB Mopars: Set #1 piston at top dead center (compression), install intermediate shaft so slot is PARALLEL with the centerline of the crankshaft (slot pointing front to back of motor). Once distributor is installed, #1 should be pointing at apx. 7 o-clock position.
I do hear that quite a bit. Thanks for the tip.
In my Hemi 426 the #1 is pointing at the 5 o'clock position with that same setup.
Properly timed is relative. You are 90 degrees off according to factory position.
Agreed
Chrysler's FSM says that it should run with the centerline of the crankshaft, from the front to rear of engine block, NOT from side to side as you have shown here. Just saying.
Great work on the engine series Pete.
In the grand scheme of things, you can make any post #1. So it really doesn't matter which way the intermediate shaft is turned so long as you may the post that the rotor is pointing as #1(and assuming you're on TDC #1 when putting it all together).
@@knight0334 agreed 100%. I don’t drop my shaft in until the final start up, and priming of oil pump with a long shaft on a drill. Then I finger check number one plug hole for compression and set her up. Thanks for showing, Pete.
Great video, How you did it makes a lot of sense. I hate to see the Vacuum Advance sticking in the wrong direction. But somehow, you are installing the intermediate shaft 90 degrees off from the factory manual. It must be due to the orientation of the slot on the after market distributor. Manual wants the slot to run parallel with the cam shaft when engine is TDC on fire stroke.
That could be
Very good that’s helpful for me as I have a 572 hemi that has been sitting for several years and I wanted to see about pre-oiling and setting a distributor correct back into place.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for making the video.
You're welcome
Addressing the comment section here. It's true that you can place #1 where ever you want or where ever the rotor ends up but alot of the time this requires cut to length plug wires because a pre-made set won't always work or if it does there's routing issues.
Great point! Thank you
@@PetesGarage Yw. It also depends on the distributor. I've got a Unilite and #1 points to 5:00
Haha you answered my question without me having to ask. Thanks man!
Put engine on TDC , install intermediate shaft with slot going front to back
Thank you
Pete i have a major question
Shhoy
Doesn't the rotor generally point to cyl #1 when at TDC...?
Yes
You are awesome😎👍🏽
You rock!
Why does it matter where you put no. 1?
You can put no. 1 wherever you like.
That is true, but from the factory #1 has a location on the distributor cap
Pete's Garage i get you.
Yes
Not being able to remove this gear to leave the distributor in the correct position, would you have any idea without dismantling the engine it won't go up?
If you use a screwdriver the same size as the tab on the bottom of the distributor, you just put in in the slot on the gear and turn it backwards. It will pop right up
@@PetesGarage vou tentar
Hey Pete what kind of paint do you use on your motors vht? I think you have a video but I can't seem to find it
Korie Creson Eastwood 2k ceramic
Pete, am I crazy or wasn't the dizzy shaft off center of the gear?? Maybe the dizzy was not down completely in place....
Steve 1961P. You're right Steve. I did not push the distributor in past the oring. It still had about 3/16" to go.
What are your thoughts on Bronze gears? I used the Hughes coated steel gear oil pump drive shaft intended for roller cams. Thank you for an awesome video. Aloha.
Gill Pecceu Either is good. I've used both and have had great success with both
Hey Pete, love the vids! Can you direct me to one of your vids that deals with valve lash for a Mopar bb? My 440 pushrods don't seem to be the right length, by mere thousands..Thanx.
ruclips.net/video/F7H5589tsLw/видео.html
Doesn't matter where it ends up unless your using stock replacement plug wires.
That is true
hi pete my question is when lining up the timing gears point to point 6 and 12 oclock does that mean the motor is 180 degrees out when at TDC ? do you just need to rotate it once more to TDC and then it should be pointing at number 1 ? thanks
#1 should already be at TDC when you put the timing gears on
Will this be the same with a 70 383 engine with a msd distributor and msd box?
It should be
Ok thanks I will try it this engine has been nothing but a money pit for me no matter what I do I just can't get it running right.
On a la 360 does it face front to back or towards numerous one cylinder, I have heard of both?
It depends on the year really, I've heard it both ways myself
Pete, I was told to put the intermediate shaft in my 426 hemi with the slot parellel with the cam, which makes the slot run front to back of the engine. Your stated paralell to the cam but the slot appears to be perpendicular to the camshaft. I know you are building a 440 but aren't the 440 and 426 running similar intermediate shafts? I see that the comment from JaneFromStayFarm had the same comment as mine with the position of the intermediate shaft. Is the position different on a 440?
Great question. Technically speaking, you can have it point any direction as long as you have #1 at TDC and put the #1 plug wire on the cap where the rotor is facing. To be true to the diagram in the manual it should be pointing as you say, you just need to turn the intermediate shaft
Love the videos, my only request is that you make them longer.
Benjamin E. I usually do, but this was a short, specific topic
Will the distributor seat correctly if the intermediate shaft isn't engaged into the oil pump?
Yup. we discussed vie text?
Yes . Thanks pete
Thank you Pete, a guy wants me to put a new billet distributor in his 68 440. I get the running engine to top dead center on compression stroke, take out old distributor, will the new distributor just slide in, are all distributors shafts timed the same, or will I have to do this procedure with the intermediate shaft? I will need a very long Allen wrench on a built engine to turn oil pump. Thank you. 👍👍🏁🏁
It should fit right in.
@Pete's Garage
It did , fit like a charm, got her purring , doing aluminum intake and 750 carb this coming weekend. It's a 1969 440 , supposed to have come out of a Imperial. Thanks for the reply.👍👍
Awesome!
I mean is ot possible for distributor to seat correctly if the intermediate shaft isn't engaged into the oil pump?
I hope I helped
You did
Hey pete question on the bronze bushing I have a new 5.9 magnum block and I will be installing a new one. Do I just press fit it in dry or with assembly lube or loctite thanks awesome videos
You should use some sort of lube with PTFE
Hi Pete, I have a question I had a company rebuild my 440 and they left the intermediate shaft out for some reason and the manifold is all bolted on with carburetor, Can I Install and time the shaft to the oil pump without removing the manifold? can it be done? Thanks, Steve!
Yes it can
DISRIBUTOR TIMING
I’ve watched your entire series on your 440 builds, and have enjoyed watching. However, perhaps you used a secondary method in timing the immediate shaft. According to the 1970 Plymouth Service Manual, Group 9, pages 9-58 and 9-59, subject Distributor Timing this what found.
1. Rotate crankshaft until NO. 1 cylinder is at top dead center on the firing stroke.
2. When in this position, the straight line on the vibration damper should be under “O” on timing indicator.
3. Coat shaft and drive gear with engine oil. Install the shaft so that after gear spirals into place, it will index with the oil pump shaft, so slot in top of drive gear will be parallel with center line of crankshaft (Fig. 35, pg. 9-59.
While very similar, the Dodge may be different than the Plymouth and Chrysler. This is the way it works out for these parts
you would think that Dodge would have addressed the issue with slack in the distributor drive slot as long as the 440 had been in production .
This is one of the reasons racers go to a crank trigger. Much more accurate.
There is definitely a better way to do it
Does anyone have an opinion about a thrust collar put on the director's shaft to limit up &down move of the intermediate shaft to help stabilize timing?
That's distributor shaft (goofy spell check made a change right when I hit send)
Hey Pete!! Question - I know the valve guides can be drilled and replaced, Crank mains can be line bored, Connecting rods can be shaved and bored, but I have yet to hear what is done when the Lifter bores are too loose. Are they bored out for a larger diameter lifter? Bored and then sleeved for a stock lifter, like a piston cylinder? Can you help with this?
Usually I have them honed and measured. If the clearance is too great you can go to a larger lifter.
and then you can take it all out so you can properly pre oil the engine with your drill before starting
That is true
Pete im building an LA smallblock, retro roller. So im doing research on distributor gears. How often have you had to change the bronze gear? Thanks.
It depends on the distributor. See what the manufacturer recommends
@@PetesGarage I was referring to how fast has your bronze gears wear out.
I have not changed one yet
I got my bushing from 440 source and it’s not going in the hole. Didn’t notice difference sizes for that
You may have bought it for the wrong kind of block
@@PetesGarage I got it from 440 source. I messaged them they said I can put it on a belt sander to make it fit. What do you think?
Sure, that works
What name brand of electronic distributor were you using with this 440 buildup is there a possibility I could get the name and the part number also the part number for that intermediate shaft you're doing a great job
Pro series distributor JM7714BK
Intermediate shaft 200-1085 from 440source.com
440 dodge makes for poppet valved 2 stroke conversion loop charged, i got a 445 CID powerstroke i want to try this with
Time to get a longer Alan wrench
Jay McG I have a very long one to drive the oil pump for priming, but the camera was so close I could barely get my hand in there.
First comment and like, woot woot
Jacob Vandenbark You are the man
Hey Pete, I had a distributor shaft snap on me in my 383. I'm thinking something might have clogged up the oil pump which caused the failure. I'm thinking of replacing it and the intermediate shaft as well. What will I need to do this? is it a simple rip and replace like you've done here?
Just pull the distributor and pull out the shaft, not too difficult
The tab on the distributor looks to small???
It looks like it, but it isn't. It goes in about another 1/4"
Weird.
Always
Load of crap video. The intermediate shaft nor the oil pump needs to be timed at all. Time the cam to the crank and all else can be adjusted later. You're only restriction is how far the distributor can rotate as far as the vacuum advance is concerned. All else can be accommodated for on final assembly.
Opinions vary. I'm sure you meant "Your only restriction..."