This guy gave everyone listening good info. I have a 440 thick mains truck /rv block out of a RV. And mancini stud girdle. I broke a 73 block up through the mains so I'll tell everyone that is going to swing flow the fence horse power wise needs the stronger block. I'm at 15 to 1 now. Short fill solid predator cam
Pete The 8 after the 440 doesn't stand for 8 cyl. On Mopar blocks the number after the engine size represents how many cores it took to cast that block! 2 would be a perfect block one core for each bank, they add a number for every cyl core that gets replaced in the casting up till the number 10. Your block with 8 means 6 cores were replaced and should be Sonic tested to see how far you can bore it. The 2c36000 breaks down as 72 year c is not the casting plans but the assembly plant for the line of car it was going into, 36000 is not how many 440 were made that year but the last eight of the vin# of the car it went into
Great videos Pete, Lots of good info and looking forward to your new Videos. I am also building a stroker 440 for the first time. Your video and comments by all are much appreciated.
Pete, looking at the casting and you said, there is a blob here and it doesn't look like you wanted to guess what it was. Looking at the video that blob is a D and an N and the pointer is pointed to D day shift. Versus N for night shift. Thanks for posting these videos I am so glad your here to help us. I am building a 390 to replace my original 352. In my 65 galaxie. :)
16:30 In some cases, high performance companies build billet steel main caps. However, they are usually sold as a way to strengthen an engine, rather than replace a standard main cap that has failed. Your explaination of the price of machining really helps me, thanks for your show!
Also , if the block was run a in a drag car , watch out for block filler also , people fill the blocks part way with cement type of filler to add strength . I have run 440 blocks from all years and never worried about the numbers , they will all handle 500 hp with no problem as long as they are not cracked . The block in your video has the webbing on the outside that some dont have , I always liked that because it makes it more rigid . I have used nitrous on stock 440 blocks up to a 350 hp plate and never hurt a 440 block . Lots of Motor homes had 440's also , but if you plan to use stock heads , beware , the motorhomes sometimes had huge industrial cooling systems with special heads and water pump that you dont want for a hot rod . The shortblock from that industrial set up is fine though . Some machine shops want those industrial heads to sell for motorhome rebuilds . And , I am glad you mentioned align honing and decking . Machine work is the key to a great build , cam degreeing is a must if you want all the bang for your buck .
Pete, as always...great video. I am not a Mopar guy, but I do appreciate the muscle car era Mopar power. Just to make a suggestion on the video - Could you number them. It would be easier to follow and play them. Agains, thanks Pete.
All the machine work you mentioned that's the correct way to start your build if your machine shop can't perform all those services find one that can. By the way what's your view on a stud girdle personally I think they're a must on a big power build .
2536430--1966-72. 3698830--1973-74 4006630--1975-79 This would be a very early casting 73 block even though it dates 3rd March 72. And the 8 digits stamped on the pad near the pan rail match the last 8 digits of the VIN number. It started in 68.
Good vids, regarding the stamped numbers on the pad, the first number is the year, second is the plant as you stated correctly. The next 6 digits are the last 6 digits of that particular car's VIN that received that engine, aka "matching numbers engine".
Any of it really.... cars over here now are unbelievably boring. I'm currently tarting up my kit car to sell in the spring and move into something american 65-70's and make it mine. That's the plan anyhow.
Missed the engine build date info on surface at front left side of block . HP indicates it’s high preference block and letter ahead of 440 is year and then below that is the day and month of the build. The blocks were stored and left to cure before they were built. So you could have a 72 casting date with a 73 build date.
Jefferson assembly was not a casting plant. It was an assembly plant for large C-body cars . That number by the right side motor mount lugs is the last part of the title vin assigned to the car the engine was built for!
Restoring a Winnebago motorhome..73 D22 Indian with the 440..Is a motorhome 440 any different than a car 440?? I have never done anything Mopar before and starting a very steep learning curve!!
Planning a 505 build, have a block deemed buildable by machine shop. Not sure this is the shop to finish job. I’m in the Buffalo area also, can you recommend a competent shop to help me ?
A lot of motorhome manufactures in the late 60s and early 70s went to junkyards and got low mileage big blocks and they could be out of any make or model and year. so not only are they good sources for big blocks they could have something rare under the hood as well. Also you will need to have hardened valve seats installed in your heads in any motors older then 1974, if you plan on using the stock heads, or just run a lead additive in your gas if your just going to run the motor without rebuilding it lol
Old motor homes are a good place to find a used 440 engine that has not already been hotrodded. I used to pull them and sell them to the mopar guys in southern California.
the 440-8? 440 is the engine size, the 8 is for the core shift count on the cylinders. For a high- performance build, using a passenger car block the core shift count you want is 1- the lower the better. Motor home/industrial motors will be 440-3; they are the HD versions, that number is not same as the car/pick up versions. The heads & exhaust manifolds will be different with raised ports. As far as the 'muscle car' engines? The 383, 400, 440 heads are the same for the Magnum & non-Magnum variants. The difference was in the cams, compression ratios, carbs, exhaust - things that did not have them running separate casting & production lines- only the 340 6-bbl AAR Cuda's & T/A Challengers got special heads (X-heads) due to SCCA rules, and that was a 340 LA small-block. The casting number was for the BB & RB's of the era 906. They never made a production dual-quad set up except for on the cross-ram type headaches. Do not care what "Uncle Earl" told you or urban fables- you had to be a "Somebody" to get anything really special, because pulling stuff off or holding up a line was & is big money
440s have a flat pad next to the distributor that contains more information, it's a very quick way to determine if it's a raised deck or a low deck such as a 383 or a 400.
Mark Watrous I think it's called the engine boss. A raised block has it and and the 383/400 doesn't. It's on the driver side of the block. A casting product.
Hey Pete nice video. where's your garage located? Do you build high performance 440's? Also I see 572 alluminium blocks, are these the same as 440's but just bored out? I want a 572 billet alluminium block built with titanium rods, top shelf components. Heat dispersant and other coatings to the engine.... question; what is the highest compression that can be had with 91 octane, heat dispersant, top shelf components and carburated? IS 12:1 possible? Live in Canada so its not super hot in the summer
I am outside Buffalo, NY. I do build for people. The aluminum blocks are a bit different. You could get up to 12:1, but is it necessary, it's all part of the planning preocess
When I lived in Toronto in the 80"s, I used to visit a large auto wrecker located on River Road in Tonnawanda, NY. Forgot the name. Is that place still around?
Pete, I am considering using billet aluminum main caps for my 440 stroker build. Should I use billet aluminum or billet steel? Which is stronger? This will be a street engine mostly with some drag strip use occasionally. Also, will brand new main caps need to be line honed? Thanks!
DO NOT buy pistons before you hone the block! What happens if your block doesn't clean up at .030? You now have a set of .030 440 Chrysler piston paper weights. A block doesn't have to be torque plate honed either. In a performance build it needs to be.
@@PetesGarage if you have a block with a bad ridge it's even difficult to get a good reading with a dial bore gauge. If it's a cookie cutter engine for the shop (one of their specialty, could build it blind folded motors) then yes they probably have the pistons before they hone it. There are probably a few sets on the shelf. If you are doing a random, uncommon engine like a 440 (vs 350's and ls engines) it's taking a big gamble to do so. At least rough hone/bore the block and see where you stand first.
in the early 70s i had a guy bring me 440 engine that had a damaged piston. when i got the pistons out 2 damaged. but all 8 was .010 OVER std. my dealer told me .010 over was available ONLY to the factory. also the first year for the 440 was 1966. with small ext valves. 1967 had bigger valves. back in the day the 67 heads was what every one wanted.
Pete I’ve been watching awhile and I hope you can help me out on something. I just got done sliding new main bearings in my car from underneath. after sliding the last one in I realized I put a pretty nice radial scratch in one of the crank main journals maybe about a quarter inch long. I can feel it with my finger nail and I worried that I screwed up bad. This is not a high HP engine and most people I ask say it should be fine. I’d appreciate any input or advice you can give me.
I bought a 440 block (and other parts) from ebay. What a disaster! The block came with 383 main caps! The heads looked like they were found at the bottom of a lake not one valve would open. I ended up replacing all the valves, valve guides and 11 of the 16 seats. The block and heads were sold as "good, ready to run" His name? gdmusclecarparts3wng. I wouldn't believe this guy if his tongue came notarized.
Merry Christmas Pete! My 68 Charger build will need an engine soon so far I have the option of getting a 1973 440 Motorhome with 80k miles 1976 440 out of a Power Wagon unknown miles and a 1967 440. It’s going to be my first engine rebuild, looking for 480-550hp without having to do any machining. Is that possible? Open to suggestions
Merry Christmas Jeffrey. Whichever one you some machining will be required to get the kind of HP you're looking for. At least standard rebuild machining.
That is a great question. I was a Process Engineer for GM at an engine assembly that made the 454. I made cylinders heads and worked on assembly. The tolerances were so loose we had the limits for cold test pressure set 40 to 80 psi at 2,700 RPM's
I'm from the Buffalo area... Who did all your machining?... Do prices vary depending on the size of the block? (440 vs 5.0 etc) or are the prices by job?
I found a '72 440 just now on craigslist about a mile from where I work for $800. Too bad I already have a 400 for a 470 build. If you can, you want go with the B rather than the RB in an A body car. If I didn't have it already, I'd go get it. I got my tax refund this afternoon.
There's nothing wrong with the 413. The only parts issue you'll face is piston selection. Check Summit, if they don't have what you want, you can get some custom made.
another source for a good 440 block is from a motor home or RV block. they usually have low miles,huge water jackets and have a higher nickle content than even the HP blocks. also off subject. an RV 727 have a low 1st gear planetary gear and will launch you off the line better.
Pete's Garage so i found a guy selling a 440 thats in the process of rebuilding that has bored 40 over eagle connecting rod's kwith black pistons edelbrock intake heads for sale, 727 torqueflite transmission with manual valve body coming with it as well. Nothing is cracked and he's selling it for 2k any thoughts?
Show me where the ratio list is for an RV 727B with a ratio lower than 2.45. Even if you can show me a 727B with a ratio lower than standard, the benefit of a lower starting ratio is negated by the greater 1, 2 rpm drop. The Turbo 700 is a good case in example with its low 1st and large 1, 2 rpm drop. You don't see too many turbo 700s in high performance street cars that are drag raced because of this.
Well, which factory spec to which year? Are you reusing the block, crank, and heads? If anything needs to be machined it could take it out of spec so building back to spec would be impossible without replacing those parts. You could just rebuild it as is with minimal machining and do it for $2500.
Rev up your engines!!!! It's scotty!!! It's kinda weird that utube big wig mechanic for over 40 years would ask a question like that??? Come on Scotty this isn't your 65 mustang this is a "MOPAR" there the unicorns of American muscle...
Hi Pete- Great tech info. As far as lifters go, we built a 340. My friend submerged the hydraulic lifters and began pumping them up with a pushrod. Would you believe we found 1 that wouldn't pump up. ( squirt)
Just cross hatch the cylinders, new rings and bearings, new oil pump, seals and gaskets. Stuff a big cam in there. Fresh heads, good springs, throw it back together.
I almost chocked when you said the machining ran about $1600... It's been many years since I've built an engine.. Last one was a 5.0 in 1991 for my 81 pony (transplant)... I had everything you described done except the magnaflux.. With new crank, pistons, rods, bearings, heads machined and new valves it cost me $1,400... Long block done done.. LOL... my how ties change!
Not bad.... Still just shocked at how expensive automotive work can be... Cant wait to start on a project. saving for a fox body t-top.... Hard to find an unmolested survivor.... I love your videos. Love how you get into the technical aspect as well as the hands on application.... Thanks & keep em coming!
You are incorrect on the serial number. Federal mandate started in 1968 that the VIN derivative (last 8 characters) had to be stamped on the engine and transmission cases at the time of production. These numbers seldom if ever started with zero. Typically the sequence started with 100,001 200,001 etc.
It's to bad Pete can't do a video for someone with a motor sitting in a vehicle and explain certain steps he would do to check how far to rebuild the motor depending on conditions and what to check. Still love Petes videos even tho I'm not doing old school v8's. I'm learning a lot considering I'm trying to do my first engine rebuild. Anyone have any tips? Can I pull pistons and crank and just clean and reuse everything or do I need rings and crank bearings? 👍🏻
Pete's Garage ok thank you very much Pete for your response and taking the time to respond to my comment. What would you do if the motor mainly ran fine before sitting for about 10yrs, what would you check and rebuild? Or would you just pull the whole motor and just start fresh by having the block machined then instead of using the old internals should I just start with new internals? I guess it's hard for me to explain. Again thanks Pete
have you gotten in to run? if you havent, get to run and see if it smokes or knocks. you can also use a bore scope to check the bores. i would personally just pull the engine.
Hey Pete, i have a friend thats giving me a 440 with a (THINK HE SAID) 400turbo, for free. I just had to pull it out of a motorhome. But I did some research and found out that it's mid 70s 440 engine. Checking out on forums I'm hearing that it's not a good engine because of emissions. And the design was done as good. And I shouldn't waste my money. Have you heard anything like this and what is your thoughts?
I believe the 73 and later 440's had cast cranks.. and i'm pretty sure any of them 72 and earlier were steel cranks... even though some might use a cast crank ... I wouldn't advise a cast crank for any kind of racing.
Well...steel ones are zinc plated. Brass is electrically opposed to cast iron so the coolant will promote dielectric corrosion. It's just preference I guess
Going through the planning, budgeting, and thought-process/problem-solving was insight I really enjoyed/needed. Thank you!
Awesome! Thanks my friend
This guy gave everyone listening good info. I have a 440 thick mains truck /rv block out of a RV. And mancini stud girdle. I broke a 73 block up through the mains so I'll tell everyone that is going to swing flow the fence horse power wise needs the stronger block. I'm at 15 to 1 now. Short fill solid predator cam
Thanks for your comment!
I just found this channel and realized I have to do a lot of binge watching and I subscribed I love this shit
Awesome!
I just discovered this too. Got a lot of watching to do.
Thanks Alex
Pete just found your channel I have a 78 mint 1978 motor I was gonna trade it for a 1968 block, after watching this there's no way, thanks Pete
Happy to help
Boooom......here we go again, another great engine build from the Master approaches.....💪👍
That's very nice of you, thank you
Pete
The 8 after the 440 doesn't stand for 8 cyl. On Mopar blocks the number after the engine size represents how many cores it took to cast that block! 2 would be a perfect block one core for each bank, they add a number for every cyl core that gets replaced in the casting up till the number 10. Your block with 8 means 6 cores were replaced and should be Sonic tested to see how far you can bore it. The 2c36000 breaks down as 72 year c is not the casting plans but the assembly plant for the line of car it was going into, 36000 is not how many 440 were made that year but the last eight of the vin# of the car it went into
That is an awesome comment, thank you for the clarification
thanks Pete! I was completely lost on what I should do, or what steps I need to take to prep my block. Mopar Mo Powa Babeh!
Awesome! Thanks Caleb and good luck with yours
Great videos Pete, Lots of good info and looking forward to your new Videos. I am also building a stroker 440 for the first time. Your video and comments by all are much appreciated.
Very cool....good luck my friend
Been waiting on this one let's build it 440 mopar man over here!!!!!
I'm on it Alvin...making videos as fast as I can
Pete, looking at the casting and you said, there is a blob here and it doesn't look like you wanted to guess what it was. Looking at the video that blob is a D and an N and the pointer is pointed to D day shift. Versus N for night shift. Thanks for posting these videos I am so glad your here to help us. I am building a 390 to replace my original 352. In my 65 galaxie. :)
Interesting, Thank you Jay
This is going to be a great series, thanks Pete for the great videos and info.
Thank you for watching my friend
Great video Pete, loving the old style informative production after the short and sweet Cobra videos.
I'l get back to the Cobra after I build this engine. Lots of good info to share.
Another great video from pete's garage!
Thanks my friend!
16:30 In some cases, high performance companies build billet steel main caps. However, they are usually sold as a way to strengthen an engine, rather than replace a standard main cap that has failed.
Your explaination of the price of machining really helps me, thanks for your show!
Thanks for watching
Thanks for doing this, Pete. Learned a lot! I have a 77 motorhome 440 that I want to stroke and build for around 600 hp. for my 69 Dart.
That's cool, should get 600 no problem
Just bought a 76 Dodge motorhome
@@PetesGarage hey Pete's 440. In gtr
Awesome... Will take me a long time to get there but I'm doing a 400/460 stroker with the Plymouth Satellite sebring plus I'm restoring
That is really cool, share some pics on my facebook page facebook.com/PetesGarageBuffalo/
Also , if the block was run a in a drag car , watch out for block filler also , people fill the blocks part way with cement type of filler to add strength . I have run 440 blocks from all years and never worried about the numbers , they will all handle 500 hp with no problem as long as they are not cracked . The block in your video has the webbing on the outside that some dont have , I always liked that because it makes it more rigid . I have used nitrous on stock 440 blocks up to a 350 hp plate and never hurt a 440 block . Lots of Motor homes had 440's also , but if you plan to use stock heads , beware , the motorhomes sometimes had huge industrial cooling systems with special heads and water pump that you dont want for a hot rod . The shortblock from that industrial set up is fine though . Some machine shops want those industrial heads to sell for motorhome rebuilds . And , I am glad you mentioned align honing and decking . Machine work is the key to a great build , cam degreeing is a must if you want all the bang for your buck .
Awesome comment, thanks Ted
The pointer was for day/night Block was cast at 9A.M. Learned this from my dad who cast GMC V6 engines in the 60's
That's cool! Thanks for sharing
Pete, as always...great video. I am not a Mopar guy, but I do appreciate the muscle car era Mopar power.
Just to make a suggestion on the video - Could you number them. It would be easier to follow and play them. Agains, thanks Pete.
Good Idea....I'll do that
All the machine work you mentioned that's the correct way to start your build if your machine shop can't perform all those services find one that can.
By the way what's your view on a stud girdle personally I think they're a must on a big power build .
I agree Neil, thanks. I always use a stud girdle over 500 HP
Excited for the build 😄😎
Me too!
2536430--1966-72.
3698830--1973-74
4006630--1975-79
This would be a very early casting 73 block even though it dates 3rd March 72. And the 8 digits stamped on the pad near the pan rail match the last 8 digits of the VIN number. It started in 68.
Great info, thanks for sharing
Perfect timing.... I'm going to rebuild my 440 for a imitation Superbird.
That is really cool....share some pics on my facebook page facebook.com/PetesGarageBuffalo/
Good vids, regarding the stamped numbers on the pad, the first number is the year, second is the plant as you stated correctly. The next 6 digits are the last 6 digits of that particular car's VIN that received that engine, aka "matching numbers engine".
Excellent comment, thank you for sharing with us
We still like you best! Happy Holidays, and keep on chooglin’!
Thanks my friend
Thanks Pete, always enjoy your no nonsense approach. Always take something from your videos.
Thanks Shaun....Much appreciated
Great info Pete thanks a lot take care
Thanks, you too!
Love the videos Pete. Wish I had more access to this stuff in the UK
You mean like parts? Seems like the old American muscle cars look great crusing in any country.
Any of it really.... cars over here now are unbelievably boring. I'm currently tarting up my kit car to sell in the spring and move into something american 65-70's and make it mine. That's the plan anyhow.
I lived there for 2 years....I was glad to get back...lol
Thank you for the detail explanations,
You are welcome!
Missed the engine build date info on surface at front left side of block . HP indicates it’s high preference block and letter ahead of 440 is year and then below that is the day and month of the build. The blocks were stored and left to cure before they were built. So you could have a 72 casting date with a 73 build date.
Thanks Tom
Jefferson assembly was not a casting plant. It was an assembly plant for large C-body cars . That number by the right side motor mount lugs is the last part of the title vin assigned to the car the engine was built for!
Great info, thanks for sharing with us!
Huber foundry Det. Mi.
Yea Pete that stamped number is the vin# of the car it came from.... its ok w'll let you slide on this one! Good video!
Restoring a Winnebago motorhome..73 D22 Indian with the 440..Is a motorhome 440 any different than a car 440?? I have never done anything Mopar before and starting a very steep learning curve!!
It's identical. Most 440 car engines come out of a Winnebago
Planning a 505 build, have a block deemed buildable by machine shop. Not sure this is the shop to finish job. I’m in the Buffalo area also, can you recommend a competent shop to help me ?
Great video. On the casting clock the unknown dial is a D or N for Day or Night shift.
Thanks for the info!
A lot of motorhome manufactures in the late 60s and early 70s went to junkyards and got low mileage big blocks and they could be out of any make or model and year. so not only are they good sources for big blocks they could have something rare under the hood as well. Also you will need to have hardened valve seats installed in your heads in any motors older then 1974, if you plan on using the stock heads, or just run a lead additive in your gas if your just going to run the motor without rebuilding it lol
Those old motorhomes are a gold mine
this is a GREAT video.
Thanks-
Thank you my friend
Well done. Subscribed
Thank you and welcome my friend
Old motor homes are a good place to find a used 440 engine that has not already been hotrodded. I used to pull them and sell them to the mopar guys in southern California.
That's a great idea....if you can find them. Thanks for sharing
the 440-8? 440 is the engine size, the 8 is for the core shift count on the cylinders. For a high- performance build, using a passenger car block the core shift count you want is 1- the lower the better. Motor home/industrial motors will be 440-3; they are the HD versions, that number is not same as the car/pick up versions. The heads & exhaust manifolds will be different with raised ports. As far as the 'muscle car' engines? The 383, 400, 440 heads are the same for the Magnum & non-Magnum variants. The difference was in the cams, compression ratios, carbs, exhaust - things that did not have them running separate casting & production lines- only the 340 6-bbl AAR Cuda's & T/A Challengers got special heads (X-heads) due to SCCA rules, and that was a 340 LA small-block. The casting number was for the BB & RB's of the era 906. They never made a production dual-quad set up except for on the cross-ram type headaches. Do not care what "Uncle Earl" told you or urban fables- you had to be a "Somebody" to get anything really special, because pulling stuff off or holding up a line was & is big money
Awesome comment, thank you very much
Pete can ask your opinion of Best ignition upgrade for a stock dodge 318 engine?
6AL ignition box with a pro billet distributor
@@PetesGarage the MSD ignition system?
Yes
440s have a flat pad next to the distributor that contains more information, it's a very quick way to determine if it's a raised deck or a low deck such as a 383 or a 400.
Excellent point. This bloc did not have any info there so I did not include it. Thanks for the comment.
383 400 don't have flat pad and this is how to distinguish R or RB from engine compartment.
Mark Watrous I think it's called the engine boss. A raised block has it and and the 383/400 doesn't. It's on the driver side of the block. A casting product.
Hey Pete nice video. where's your garage located? Do you build high performance 440's? Also I see 572 alluminium blocks, are these the same as 440's but just bored out? I want a 572 billet alluminium block built with titanium rods, top shelf components. Heat dispersant and other coatings to the engine.... question; what is the highest compression that can be had with 91 octane, heat dispersant, top shelf components and carburated? IS 12:1 possible? Live in Canada so its not super hot in the summer
I am outside Buffalo, NY. I do build for people. The aluminum blocks are a bit different. You could get up to 12:1, but is it necessary, it's all part of the planning preocess
This old man neighbor of mine has a 440 he said he’d be willing to part with, hopefully he’ll sell it to me 😊
Buy it
Pete's Garage I hope to!
Great new project. This one will make your SBF look silly.
I don't know...that SBF is a monster on the road...
Or.....ain't no replacement for displacement...lol
Chrysler blocks can handle a lot more abuse than the ford although the ford heads are much better.
When I lived in Toronto in the 80"s, I used to visit a large auto wrecker located on River Road in Tonnawanda, NY. Forgot the name. Is that place still around?
I think that place is still there, but almost everything is gone.
I know I'm late. But did you use an external oil pump for this build?
Yes, high volume
Pete, I am considering using billet aluminum main caps for my 440 stroker build. Should I use billet aluminum or billet steel? Which is stronger? This will be a street engine mostly with some drag strip use occasionally. Also, will brand new main caps need to be line honed? Thanks!
Any time you change a main cap it needs to be hones. If the steel are original I would use them.
DO NOT buy pistons before you hone the block! What happens if your block doesn't clean up at .030? You now have a set of .030 440 Chrysler piston paper weights. A block doesn't have to be torque plate honed either. In a performance build it needs to be.
That's why you need to measure and have a good machine shop. Machine and hone to the size of the pistons. I've never had a problem yet.
@@PetesGarage if you have a block with a bad ridge it's even difficult to get a good reading with a dial bore gauge. If it's a cookie cutter engine for the shop (one of their specialty, could build it blind folded motors) then yes they probably have the pistons before they hone it. There are probably a few sets on the shelf. If you are doing a random, uncommon engine like a 440 (vs 350's and ls engines) it's taking a big gamble to do so. At least rough hone/bore the block and see where you stand first.
Good suggestion, thank you
@Donald Prairie Rough hone to .003-.005 of desired final size and then final hone when you have pistons in hand.
@Donald Prairie Well, it sounds like you have it figured out. I'm happy for you.
thanks for the vids pete.
Thanks my friend
in the early 70s i had a guy bring me 440 engine that had a damaged piston. when i got the pistons out 2 damaged. but all 8 was .010 OVER std. my dealer told me .010 over was available ONLY to the factory. also the first year for the 440 was 1966. with small ext valves. 1967 had bigger valves. back in the day the 67 heads was what every one wanted.
Awesome comment, thanks
Moe Shouse
Yup. The “915”. They had a closed chamber compared to the “906” heads.
Now... unless you are restoring, aluminum heads are the way to go.
Pete I’ve been watching awhile and I hope you can help me out on something. I just got done sliding new main bearings in my car from underneath. after sliding the last one in I realized I put a pretty nice radial scratch in one of the crank main journals maybe about a quarter inch long. I can feel it with my finger nail and I worried that I screwed up bad. This is not a high HP engine and most people I ask say it should be fine. I’d appreciate any input or advice you can give me.
I would say you are ok. Can you get some Scotch Brite on it to make sure there are no raised burrs? just lightly rub it down.
7:00 the D and N next to the time clock are for Day and Night
Thank you
@@PetesGarage I've got an 81 crewcab I'm trying to bring back. 440, 435, 205, d60 powerlock f/r, 6in shackle flips and 4in springs, crossover steering..
Also 87 ramcharger, 76, ramcharger, 95 zj, 05 300, and 2 2011 wk2 grands... lol
Getting an American Stock with 440 ready to race in dirt, it has to be stock, what heads would you recommend,it is a 75 Monaco
Well, if it has to be stock, 452 iron heads with bigger valves will help you some.
@@hishok3332 Wow, yes, 452,that's what I get for typing on my phone...lol
I bought a 440 block (and other parts) from ebay. What a disaster! The block came with 383 main caps! The heads looked like they were found at the bottom of a lake not one valve would open. I ended up replacing all the valves, valve guides and 11 of the 16 seats. The block and heads were sold as "good, ready to run" His name? gdmusclecarparts3wng. I wouldn't believe this guy if his tongue came notarized.
I never buy parts from Ebay
Arrow is pointing towards D or N. Day or Night shift
Thank you for the comment
Great info! About to do all this to mine come september and wasnt quite sure what it involved until seeing this clip! Again thanks alot
Glad it was helpful!
Usually you start washing a block for removing the remaining metal part did the maschine do this for before they put in the new plugs .... Thanks
Yes, the shop baked out the oil and washed it
@@PetesGarage Hi Pete thanks for your reply
If you get the block decked, will you also need to get shorter pushrods if you cant get a think enough head gasket?
Depending how much it's decked, yes
Merry Christmas Pete!
My 68 Charger build will need an engine soon so far I have the option of getting a
1973 440 Motorhome with 80k miles
1976 440 out of a Power Wagon unknown miles and a 1967 440.
It’s going to be my first engine rebuild, looking for 480-550hp without having to do any machining.
Is that possible?
Open to suggestions
Merry Christmas Jeffrey. Whichever one you some machining will be required to get the kind of HP you're looking for. At least standard rebuild machining.
whats good oil pressure for a 454 Big blok Thanks for this video
That is a great question. I was a Process Engineer for GM at an engine assembly that made the 454. I made cylinders heads and worked on assembly. The tolerances were so loose we had the limits for cold test pressure set 40 to 80 psi at 2,700 RPM's
I'm from the Buffalo area... Who did all your machining?... Do prices vary depending on the size of the block? (440 vs 5.0 etc) or are the prices by job?
J & L does all of my machine work
Just to follow up, he removed a snap ring and reseated the "O" ring and plunger.
440s are stout engines. The reciprocating mass is very heavy and you could gain many horses lightening the rods, pistons, pins, etc.
That is true, but the cost outweighs the gains
After all the block machining is done how much is it typical to assemble the engine typically? Short and long expectation price?
Depending on paint and accessories, around $2k
Is 250 a reasonable price for just a short block with no heads?
Depends on the condition
What $ is fair for a used, complete 440, late '60s? Not rebuilt, not e/b nor cl.
$800
I found a '72 440 just now on craigslist about a mile from where I work for $800. Too bad I already have a 400 for a 470 build. If you can, you want go with the B rather than the RB in an A body car. If I didn't have it already, I'd go get it. I got my tax refund this afternoon.
I have a '72 413 block from a motor home. Would I be wasting my time with this block or should I just look for a 440 instead?
440 has more parts available
There's nothing wrong with the 413. The only parts issue you'll face is piston selection. Check Summit, if they don't have what you want, you can get some custom made.
another source for a good 440 block is from a motor home or RV block. they usually have low miles,huge water jackets and have a higher nickle content than even the HP blocks. also off subject. an RV 727 have a low 1st gear planetary gear and will launch you off the line better.
Excelemnt information, thank you for sharing
Everyone keeps telling me the same but i can't find any in Texas...that are actually cheap
They are getting harder to find, I agree. I'm in NY and I had to get this one from Kansas
Pete's Garage so i found a guy selling a 440 thats in the process of rebuilding that has bored 40 over eagle connecting rod's kwith black pistons edelbrock intake heads for sale, 727 torqueflite transmission with manual valve body coming with it as well. Nothing is cracked and he's selling it for 2k any thoughts?
Show me where the ratio list is for an RV 727B with a ratio lower than 2.45.
Even if you can show me a 727B with a ratio lower than standard, the benefit of a lower starting ratio is negated by the greater 1, 2 rpm drop. The Turbo 700 is a good case in example with its low 1st and large 1, 2 rpm drop.
You don't see too many turbo 700s in high performance street cars that are drag raced because of this.
Nice
Thanks
Hello Pete,
I am a Bowtie Guy. Did you ever have a cracked block/cylinder head repaired?
Yes, then can be silicon bronze rod and TIG, or spatter welded.
Nice!!
A shop quoted me $2500 to rebuild my 440 to factory spec does that sound right?
Well, which factory spec to which year? Are you reusing the block, crank, and heads? If anything needs to be machined it could take it out of spec so building back to spec would be impossible without replacing those parts. You could just rebuild it as is with minimal machining and do it for $2500.
Rev up your engines!!!! It's scotty!!! It's kinda weird that utube big wig mechanic for over 40 years would ask a question like that??? Come on Scotty this isn't your 65 mustang this is a "MOPAR" there the unicorns of American muscle...
Hi Pete- Great tech info. As far as lifters go, we built a 340. My friend submerged the hydraulic lifters and began pumping them up with a pushrod. Would you believe we found 1 that wouldn't pump up. ( squirt)
Sure, I've seen lifters that leak like that. Great catch!
The numbers on the block stamped in by hand is part of the cars VIN not that it was 316665 block. this ties the block to the car it was assembled in.
Thanks Kevin
Pete can u give me some input on a ATI damper there is no keyway. Just is there any specs for a 44o thanks
I've never seen one without a keyway, they usually have two
This one bolts up with no keyway on a hughs crank is there something that I'm missing
Send me an email or text message with a picture and part number
Thanks for the videos, Are you a Buffalo Bills or hockey only sport ?
I'm not much of any sports fan. Living in Buffalo I gave up years ago. It's not worth the emotional investment. Cars never let me down.
Just cross hatch the cylinders, new rings and bearings, new oil pump, seals and gaskets. Stuff a big cam in there. Fresh heads, good springs, throw it back together.
That's 1 way
Hello I have a 400 and I need to rebuild the whole engine how much that will cost ????
If you do it yourself, maybe $4k
I almost chocked when you said the machining ran about $1600... It's been many years since I've built an engine.. Last one was a 5.0 in 1991 for my 81 pony (transplant)... I had everything you described done except the magnaflux.. With new crank, pistons, rods, bearings, heads machined and new valves it cost me $1,400... Long block done done.. LOL... my how ties change!
The $1,600 includes the price of the block, cam bearings, and ARP main studs.
Not bad.... Still just shocked at how expensive automotive work can be... Cant wait to start on a project. saving for a fox body t-top.... Hard to find an unmolested survivor.... I love your videos. Love how you get into the technical aspect as well as the hands on application.... Thanks & keep em coming!
Love them fox's
You are incorrect on the serial number. Federal mandate started in 1968 that the VIN derivative (last 8 characters) had to be stamped on the engine and transmission cases at the time of production. These numbers seldom if ever started with zero. Typically the sequence started with 100,001 200,001 etc.
Thanks for the information. What did I say wrong?
I think they only made about three-quarters of a million 440 engines
It would be nice to know exactly
what do you use to hold the engine
A standard engine stand
Hi is there a different between 440 that come out of a motorhome or are they all the same
The blocks are all basically the same, they may have different mounting lugs or holes.
I have read that police and motorhome 440 heads have steam holes for better Cooling
I cannot confirm that, maybe someone will comment
Motorhome blocks were noted for having the hour glass coolant holes. The coolant passages were increased to help with cooling in heavier applications.
The motorhome 440 engines dont have a dipstick for some reason unknown to me.
What's the difference between a 440 and a 440 interceptor?
Usually just the heads, cam, intake and carb
The engine dubbed "Interceptor" was a Six Pack Engine with a 4 barrel Carter AVS Carb.
No Mopar was ever called an interceptor.
That is a Ford thing.
Hey there’s another guy using the name Pete’s garage.
I've heard that
Great
Thanks
pete Help .where are the new 440 blocks .??
You'll have to hunt for those
My engine 440 has this serial number 4006630-440-10 what the number after 440 means? TY
My best guess is 10 is the mold used to make the sand cast
that strange my 440's serial number is 4006630-440-4
D& N is day or night. Arrow depicts .your block is possessed by the devil 1 666 5, yikes
The would make sense for so many reasons
665 Neighbor of the devil
@@PetesGarage
Building a 440 myself atm I have a 440 block out of a 68 Newyorker ,price here for machine work is pretty similar.
That's cool Jesse, thanks for your comment
Pretty cool you're using a 440 out of a new yorker. My dad and I are doing the same thing for our 73 'Cuda build
Awesome! Great car
It's to bad Pete can't do a video for someone with a motor sitting in a vehicle and explain certain steps he would do to check how far to rebuild the motor depending on conditions and what to check. Still love Petes videos even tho I'm not doing old school v8's. I'm learning a lot considering I'm trying to do my first engine rebuild. Anyone have any tips? Can I pull pistons and crank and just clean and reuse everything or do I need rings and crank bearings? 👍🏻
You could rebuild the entire engine in the car. I've done it a couple times, but it is way easier just to take it out.
Pete's Garage ok thank you very much Pete for your response and taking the time to respond to my comment. What would you do if the motor mainly ran fine before sitting for about 10yrs, what would you check and rebuild? Or would you just pull the whole motor and just start fresh by having the block machined then instead of using the old internals should I just start with new internals? I guess it's hard for me to explain. Again thanks Pete
corvair140 thanks corvair👍🏻
Well...after 10 years a lot can get rusted and pitted. Rebuilding is best
have you gotten in to run? if you havent, get to run and see if it smokes or knocks. you can also use a bore scope to check the bores. i would personally just pull the engine.
Engine from a 440 r/t bored out to 505 CI. Too thin?
Nope
That is an estimate based on my inexact knowledge of the original size of the bore. A lowest possible. @@PetesGarage
What are you trying to do?
Deciding if the engine is worth paying money for or not.@@PetesGarage
If it's $350 get it
Hey Pete, i have a friend thats giving me a 440 with a (THINK HE SAID) 400turbo, for free. I just had to pull it out of a motorhome. But I did some research and found out that it's mid 70s 440 engine. Checking out on forums I'm hearing that it's not a good engine because of emissions. And the design was done as good. And I shouldn't waste my money. Have you heard anything like this and what is your thoughts?
I would take it and at least use the block. you really don't need to keep all the emission controls.
Pete's Garage i just realized i said emissions, auto correct. Meant to say engineering. Was the mid-70s blocks poor engineering versus early 70s?
No...they made improvements in '72 and '75. Anything after '69 is better
the engine might have low compression, but a piston can cure that. the later model 440s are BEEFY compared to the older ones.
I believe the 73 and later 440's had cast cranks.. and i'm pretty sure any of them 72 and earlier were steel cranks... even though some might use a cast crank ... I wouldn't advise a cast crank for any kind of racing.
A machinist would be a good trade seems like you would stay busy, thanks Pete
I like machining, nothing like making chips!
Pete are mopar motorhome blocks 413/440 stronger than passenger car blocks? They seem to have more beef on the sides.
They are not, it depends on the year
😎👍
I have a couple of blocks up for grabs 340, 383, 413 and 440 in LB, Ca
Good luck
No brass freeze plugs? Steel sucks.
Why do you say that?
The steel ones rust. Brass does not.
Well...steel ones are zinc plated. Brass is electrically opposed to cast iron so the coolant will promote dielectric corrosion. It's just preference I guess
What about 4 bolt main caps?
4 bolt mains are only available on certain models. In the next video I will be going over studs versus bolts.
Pete's Garage they used to make after market 4 bolt kits that required minimum machine work
They worked great
dont really need them in a big block mopar.
Frigglebiscuit depends on the output you seak
What coating is used on the block after the machining is done?
A paint called cast blast
Pete, does the Cast Blast need to be removed prior to priming/painting?