I love watching them build with all those beautiful aftermarket engine parts nice cranks and rods; pistons. It must be nice having an unlimited access to parts.
@@richardturk7162 not even remotely close. These parts are very good in pricing. The 440 cranks are all $799. The rods are $99. The pistons are $599. Definitely a huge bargain for the price.
@@Sak-zo1ui many people forget all 440's came with forged crankshafts back in the day for a prolonged period of time, even my luxury cruiser '67 Chrysler 300.They were factory 🏭 balanced as well.
I grew up in southern California in the late 60's and I 70's I saw lots of muscle cars and some of the most plentiful fast cars were 440 Mopar vehicles. I remember one scamp with a built 440 and that car was pretty much the fastest car in almost all of Orange county California. The 440 cuda's were far more plentiful and just as fast or some were even faster than the hemi 426 cuda's. Even some 392 hemi cars with engines left over from the late 50's and early 60's were king's of the street. The Chevelle's with ls6 454 were not that common like the Camaros were but most of the Camaros were 350 small blocks . The 440 was truly the big block king's of the street.
Pat has really stepped up over the years to bring knowledge and maturity to these shows! Keeps us watching!. Would like to see more modern enginea builds. But still love to see you guys work.
Pat, I know we’re spoiled now with the stroker options sometimes being cheaper than a performance rebuild but there’s just something satisfying about a big block with a big bore and a short crank. 427 Chevys, 429 fords and 440s in moderate trim just sang a pretty song. For the street, a real 383 with decent heads, ignition and a solid flat tappet would would be a lot of fun in a light car like a Dart, early Barricuda or Duster/Demon
i got a rt with the matching engine it has never been apart a 440 tri power i got in 1981 for 500 bucks in very good condition just needed a tune up paint is still good on it
Rebuilt my 77 AMC 360 last summer and found all original bearings. Was interesting to see that AMC measures every journal and put in different sized bearings depending on those measurements.
AMC didn't do that and had they machined it properly, there would be no need to do it. Different sized bearings at different positions means it is a POS.
That was one sweet buildup! There is one error @ 11:38 worth clarifying, that Milodon 7QT pan fits 1974 and earlier Mopar A,B,C, and E body cars, not 64’ and earlier….if it only fit 64 and earlier that would eliminate E bodies entirely (they debuted in 1970) , C bodies, and the entire muscle car era of A and B body cars.
@@mrbillpurcell6203 yep the parts are high but I did buy the seal cause I got tired of the cheap fel pro seals slowly start leaking . hell even the new one I put on my mildly built 318 just now started a very slow drip. I had everything checked out and still they leaked so I went with the fast fish seal and factory rear cap . waiting to get the slant6 fired up .
Quite frankly, for my applications I want a daily driver. Not sure how daily a 440 can really be but many have said you can actually get decent mpgs if you're not stupid about it. 14 to 18 mpgs I think is actually amazing for a motor of that size and people have and do get that kinda mileage. The only reason I say a 440 is because that's what my 70 satellite came to me with mind you. My goal at this point is to finish putting it together and see about an a518 transmission with overdrive so better mpgs can happen more easily. A 2.76 rear end would probably help out too but it's a fine line. Maybe 2.94 or maybe 3.23 at the highest for quickness as well as fuel economy. My goal is to have the motor right around 2500 rpm at 70mph if possible.
I really enjoy the builds and how too and build and tech discussion. Im planning too build a 2054cc vw aircooled motor,with this build im looking at 150hp. I know its not a v6 or v8 motor.
🤠 *Master Automotive Sensei 🤓 Pat Automotive Rock Star Mike Galley 🤩; You 2 R A Dynamic T.E.A.M.= & Your: Togetherness, Each Accomplishing More Meticulous Endeavors Having Great Fun; Is Giving Us Your: Audiences / Disciples, Such Simplistic Complete Understanding and With Great Comprehension 2B Better Mechanics Too, We Salute U2 Both* 🤩
I am curious about this build as I was under the impression some mock assembly and clearance grinding would need to be done to spin the additional .250 stroke I had also heard some special oil plumbing would be necessary and is there a reason for the high volume oil pump? one would think it may put additional stress on the cam gear and cause the cam button to come apart
I recall one of the factory drivers saying they were putting between 410-415 horsepower to the ground. Having driven a wide variety of cars and the times they were turning I'd say yes. Rode in a friends max wedge 413 street Belvedere in the 70's. I don't doubt they were putting out 525 horses at the crank .
Where can I get a 5.7 LS used engine block only? Any good websites or places (I live in Los Angeles) I have a 2008 Gmc Sierra 1500. I would like to upgrade and built the engine to 400-500hp.
This video is very informative, but you guys failed to mention and even show one important step regarding the Stroker 440; Mocking up the Short Block to check every Cap Screw for Pan Rail clearance. Were you limited on air time ? That is priority #1 on a Stroker project unless you know for sure there will not be any contact.
Did you have any problems with your pickup tube hitting the rods or crank at all ? And if this engine makes 11 to 1 compression would you put premium gas or would it need an additive ?
my bet is more than 8k+ or so usd for this tv engine, as i had my BBM go bad so for me 5-20k to replace it without a buddy deal and most of it's just the parts costs and or how willing are you to be on the sketchy side of engine buying and or building. if you know the old hot rod say cheap or fast or reliable but only two so pick one
@@lawrencefoster2120 clues as to your bid as it sounds simple ish spec's for a moded BBM as 40k is double for what I thought id have to spend to get the same or better
Definitely hoping to go with that 440Source kit for my block when I can afford to do it... it's going to reside in my 1978 Cordoba. The fuel injection is a nice touch as well - any ideas on forced induction?
@@richardprice5978 I've always adored the idea of a twin-turbo big block MoPar. And yessir! It is also a B-body - with some slight suspension differences, but the majority of the "go fast" stuff interchanges!
@@GreenMountainFox what size is your final CI ? or in L ? and can you weld? or have some some local help say family or friends that can as it makes a difference in mounting the TT or a single big rear mounted in the back bumper/or TT locations vs weld DIY vs bolt on kits if you're looking at rear holly got a kit for chevys that you can modify to work. on mine i whent block hugger so i don't know if you're dog-house is the same as a charger ( 1970 c-bodies are to short for my setup to fit and work correctly or a at least a furry aqtanc i met asked me about a copy of mine and his bay was wider or so at first lookie loo it is but might be wrong about that the fender's seams the same so maybe he cannot use as wide of tires i can ? and i think the hood is lower than my oe 1 so thats another fitment problem with the C ) 🤔 and mines air-water 2 then after-cooled using the RV12 air-con as the finale stage of boost-chilling ( same ish ideas from ford or FCA factory cars like the demon for 40F or less ( but that needs meth spray/misting for the icing probably problem ) on a 80F day ) aka my car is a full power accessory car
@@GreenMountainFox do you live in the usa 🇺🇸 and have a state that does EPA and safety testing ( in my case i have testing but it's farly ish leanent to pass ). turbocharged system works best with EFI ( do not use a carb you are asking for uncle rodny eventually. TBI and CNP is ok ish ) and more so with lsx style system and red mist on youtube and in the forms used jeep and 2009 chevy truck wiring/parts/ECU on his black 440RB charger. any boost works better with computers but carbs can work on draw-though blower's fixed displacement but my 2C not worth it and or recommend to do as the control isn't there and you probably aren't going to shutdown the engine in-time to save it. on my F8 i went with 3" piping for every thing for 600-1200 hp my original goals were 10lb ish psi and sub-660hp ish +or- @ the wheels a 383-400 size engine needs the b2 frame or bigger from borg-EFR in my= 76-70 mm with a 1:0 exhaust housing's and a 2013 is BT6 Cummins VGT turbo will work too ( 1 active unto 3k-rpm and the 2 one coming on at 3500-rpm ) ( right now im redoing the engine building internally so my new set is 4.3X4.5 in stroke and a Tr6070 Z51-gearing 8-3/4@3.2FG+31-tires and yes now the TT are a little small but not 2 bad but being there low mount by the firewall/frame rails i really don't have much more room left for a N3-or-4 sizing ) more so if you do a lot of lower rpms as i had a harder time with match-bot trying not to lag vs overspool and frag it ect. on the computer simulations
with adding a VGT/variability vane ceramic ball bearing turbo you need less space for plumbing ( and less oil more so if the core is water cooled ) and it spools quickly and the aftermarket does have ECU's for some models FYI dust trying to help someone else out as i had a hard time time trying to find resources for for my build when i started in 2015-ish. for oiling you have 3 choices ( and 2 choices for the feed line 1 steal the oil from the seding / oil gage useing a JIC-4 ( 1/4 inch ID hosing ) T-ed off 2X to each turbocharger or a dedicated oiling line off of the oil pump ( and or add a pre-oiler pump or other your pick, but not 💯necessarily but handy and a piece of mind thing ect. ) if you're mechanical inclined this shouldn't be to hard as i said gm guys do this turbo swap thing a lot so its not the same way but you can learn a lot from there mistakes ) high mont = just a extra hole/welding a fitting into the old oil pan ( or maybe using the old oil drainage system/bolt for the fitting but oil changes might be a little bit harder to do with that setup depending on what you for fittings ect. ) , rear and low mont needs a scavenger pump from the bottom of the TT's to the valley/valve covers ( or a taller SS pan but this will only work for front mounted TT i think and gravitational pull and fiting at the bottom of it and maybe a chex valve but i don't know what you plan on driving ( your build/car and you have the final say ect. but im will to help give ideas for it ) like in my case its street/road racing/auto-x and some drag racing mostly street cruising and daily work ect. ) or im my choice was a dry sump from deviant missile its red and replaces the stock cam driven pump and my oil pan is the 1968-SS looking style bedplate but that means that you have to run a rack&piñon steering ( and maybe even a different K-member or at least the bread 🍞 10inchx12~" deep pan on my car wasn't playing nice so on to a tubular 1 ( probably from Q-A1 or a homemade 1 but im keeping the T-bar's ect. ) for me now as i didn't feel like hacking into my og 1 ) ( which is what I chose to do to simplylfi it and i have funny variable compression rods in my new engine but thats not relevant to your setup for now as you are probably using fixed @8to10:1 ) or have the drag link go through the centre of it like the old cars do, look at old pictures and you probably can understand ( and hopefully you can understand my message and didn't get lost or intimidated by it ) what I mean if you have any questions ask id be happy to answer any but i don't have a good way of showing any of my pictures ect.
I had a old engine it was a under square cylinder and piston that thing at 2000 rpms would put out 800 hp it was a v8 can you tell my what that engine was it eas a older on thank jack
Awesome stuff! MOPOP is going to be a good way to see why Chrysler was dominating almost every race circuit back in they're heydays! Besides the unibody sometimes lighter vehicles, also sometimes 'Acid Dipped' to make sure they lost as much weight as possible along with the aluminum and fiberglass body panels lol it was all in good measure to assure they had the competitive edge. Though they did stretch some of their production car classes by almost kinda playing in the cheating and not so much cheating areas, it was all about the fun lol!? Right?Well it should be interesting to see how this 440 rebuild turns out compared to the Chevy and Ford big blocks.
Yeah there's so many different gasoline ratings out there why don't you include California land of the 10% ethanol added you can't do everything it's just a f****** TV show
Great video as always thx. I recently got a Ford F350 400ci as an import after engine strip down I found it to have 3 damaged pistons, After a full revode and hone with new 60thou over pistons from rockauto everything went back together perfect. Engine starts and runs really well but once warmed up if you shut down the engine it is very hard to restart it's like having a flat battery slow to turn over starter is good fitted a new one I can only think the engine is a little tight but have never come across this ever before can you suggest something to look for? Thx Nigel in the UK
This engine DID NOT have 375 HP. The build date is 12/21/1971 making it a 1972 model year with low compression, 8.3:1 and 245HP NET max, not gross.Chevy guys, I swear!!!!
.001" clearance for every 1" of journal diameter is such an arbitrary number! Show me the science behind this. I don't doubt its not a bad standard, but it is definitely NOT the minimum. The dodge viper engine is set up from the factory blueprinted to .0015-.0018" clearance on the 2.5" main journal. This is much tighter than what you have suggested is minimum. Those engines run pretty well to 6500rpm, I believe. When I rebuilt my 488, I did play around with different bearing sets to get .0023-.0027" clearance. I felt better about not spinning or scuffing a bearing, but it also resulted in having to run 20w50 oil to keep my oil pressure up.
its whatever the machinist decides it should be really. the old farts are stuck in the 60s and tend to run wider clearances with thicker oil. the thinking is that there is more oil to absorb shock. the reality is the opposite. lower clearances actually give MORE support and you get to run thinner oil. you just have to keep oil temperature in mind to make sure the oil isnt getting too hot and thinning out. something else that matters is how smooth the crank is polished to. that helps a lot. i would have spec'd that engine for 0.0018-22 on the mains and rod clearances and ran a synth 5w30 all day so long as oil temps stayed under 220 degrees. no need for those giant ass clearance tolerances. that thinking is as old as the block. that engine should be using 40w oil at a minimum, possibly 50w oil when its up to temp.
To even pay attention this is also an older system not to mention the fact non roller application requiring greater clearances I didn't know you're such a expert where did you get your degree in engine building who do you work for oh your arm chair
,002-.003 is where builders have been setting bearing clearences on performance engines for decades. .003 is better for very high hp/rpm to allow for increased flexing and/or heat.
A paper parts catalog? How old is this build? . . . man, I miss good old paper catalogs. Everything is digital now. I don't want to create an account or put an app on my phone that constantly harasses me. I want to stare at a catalog while sitting on the toilet and plan my build.
you know what I wish you guys would do with that Engine is take it beyond its ability to rev and hopefully it will suck in a valve and disintegrate one of the pistons or multiple pistons
I love watching them build with all those beautiful aftermarket engine parts nice cranks and rods; pistons. It must be nice having an unlimited access to parts.
The rods are probably $300 a piece.
@@richardturk7162 not even remotely close. These parts are very good in pricing. The 440 cranks are all $799. The rods are $99. The pistons are $599. Definitely a huge bargain for the price.
Everyone has unlimited access to parts , just not the money.
You ain't lying... My machine shop consists of a grinder a welder and a sawzall.
@@Sak-zo1ui many people forget all 440's came with forged crankshafts back in the day for a prolonged period of time, even my luxury cruiser '67 Chrysler 300.They were factory 🏭 balanced as well.
I grew up in southern California in the late 60's and I 70's I saw lots of muscle cars and some of the most plentiful fast cars were 440 Mopar vehicles. I remember one scamp with a built 440 and that car was pretty much the fastest car in almost all of Orange county California. The 440 cuda's were far more plentiful and just as fast or some were even faster than the hemi 426 cuda's. Even some 392 hemi cars with engines left over from the late 50's and early 60's were king's of the street. The Chevelle's with ls6 454 were not that common like the Camaros were but most of the Camaros were 350 small blocks . The 440 was truly the big block king's of the street.
most dont want to hear it.......but its true.
sure it wasn't a green 72 swinger?
Pat has really stepped up over the years to bring knowledge and maturity to these shows!
Keeps us watching!.
Would like to see more modern enginea builds. But still love to see you guys work.
THANK YOU SO MUCH. I LEARNED A LOT ABOUT MOPAR TODAY. THANKS FOR SHARING.
I prefer the old junkyard looking engines and bringing them back to full Glory! Satisfying.
Pat, I know we’re spoiled now with the stroker options sometimes being cheaper than a performance rebuild but there’s just something satisfying about a big block with a big bore and a short crank. 427 Chevys, 429 fords and 440s in moderate trim just sang a pretty song. For the street, a real 383 with decent heads, ignition and a solid flat tappet would would be a lot of fun in a light car like a Dart, early Barricuda or Duster/Demon
Another GREAT vid from Powernation!! 👍👍👍
Love the external oil pump,wish they all had that
its easy to modify to put oil where its needed
i got a rt with the matching engine it has never been apart a 440 tri power i got in 1981 for 500 bucks in very good condition just needed a tune up paint is still good on it
Rebuilt my 77 AMC 360 last summer and found all original bearings. Was interesting to see that AMC measures every journal and put in different sized bearings depending on those measurements.
AMC didn't do that and had they machined it properly, there would be no need to do it. Different sized bearings at different positions means it is a POS.
@@TTGTO288 You should talk to Honda about that. I don't know about now, but they did exactly what he said for many years. You're just a hater.
My fav engine -
they should have built a 505 from a 383 and a 600 from the 440 1:07
I love watching Amish Mike showing off his mechanical skills & training by painting something. He really is the Picasso of mechanics
That was one sweet buildup! There is one error @ 11:38 worth clarifying, that Milodon 7QT pan fits 1974 and earlier Mopar A,B,C, and E body cars, not 64’ and earlier….if it only fit 64 and earlier that would eliminate E bodies entirely (they debuted in 1970) , C bodies, and the entire muscle car era of A and B body cars.
They should make the video twice as long and show more how to seal the motor rear main expecially
@Ashely💋 hey bae
Huh?
This channel is getting a lot better!
Really cool tip on the cleaning Brushes.
DLI did a 440 build years ago in the mopar vs chevy vs ford challenge. Smaller cube 440 waxed both of them pumping out over 780 hp.
And the oldest Design, from 1955. IIRC it was a low deck.
that fastfish 1 piece rear main seal and cap can be used on the slant6 's as well . I put them on my slant6 😎🏁
they are expensive! way to much for my thoughts, Been building since 70's and had minimal leaks, its all in care when assy
@@mrbillpurcell6203 yep the parts are high but I did buy the seal cause I got tired of the cheap fel pro seals slowly start leaking . hell even the new one I put on my mildly built 318 just now started a very slow drip. I had everything checked out and still they leaked so I went with the fast fish seal and factory rear cap . waiting to get the slant6 fired up .
Those tolerances are down to a gnats ass very quality part WOW!
MOPAR💙
omg that 440 was a beauty!!
Love the RB wedge!!!
So that block was casted on my birthday just five years earlier, my bday 12 21 76 .. that block 21 21 71 😉👍
12 21 71
Quite frankly, for my applications I want a daily driver. Not sure how daily a 440 can really be but many have said you can actually get decent mpgs if you're not stupid about it. 14 to 18 mpgs I think is actually amazing for a motor of that size and people have and do get that kinda mileage. The only reason I say a 440 is because that's what my 70 satellite came to me with mind you. My goal at this point is to finish putting it together and see about an a518 transmission with overdrive so better mpgs can happen more easily. A 2.76 rear end would probably help out too but it's a fine line. Maybe 2.94 or maybe 3.23 at the highest for quickness as well as fuel economy. My goal is to have the motor right around 2500 rpm at 70mph if possible.
Love the mopar builds
Can we expect a Pontiac big block soon? we Poncho fans wanna see some big Poncho power too!
Do it right or not at all! Thats a good moto that keeps the after market in business.
Great content. Thanks
Where is my 4.3 build.
248k. It’s almost time.
***Mike Galley is the Man***
#amishmike
Damn pat has been hitting the gym. Lost a heap of weight. Good effort. Looking about ten years younger
I really enjoy the builds and how too and build and tech discussion. Im planning too build a 2054cc vw aircooled motor,with this build im looking at 150hp. I know its not a v6 or v8 motor.
U guys rock love ur videos ❤
10-4 YALL GOOD WORK
How hard is it to find one of these engines? I don't have anything to put it in but I just wanna build one!
Sorry Pat, there's nothing in that flask when you drank, great product placement though 😉
Nah he's just such an alcoholic (I'm kidding!) That him drinking an entire flask and felt nothing.
@@aliabdallah102 Pat only uses methanol for race engines never consumption 😁
Can that be used to free up a locked up engine that might be rusted up
This is me listening to them explain what they’re doing. 😳🤯
was there no reason to check block clearances with the 512 stroker kit?
460 seemed to build best power out of the 3
Yep, Even a Mopar performance bulletin says that, except that was OEM iron heads.
🤠 *Master Automotive Sensei 🤓 Pat Automotive Rock Star Mike Galley 🤩; You 2 R A Dynamic T.E.A.M.= & Your: Togetherness, Each Accomplishing More Meticulous Endeavors Having Great Fun; Is Giving Us Your: Audiences / Disciples, Such Simplistic Complete Understanding and With Great Comprehension 2B Better Mechanics Too, We Salute U2 Both* 🤩
I wish I lived in this world where the machine shop only takes a few days to machine your block.
Pitter patter, it's all that matters! Mopar content 👌
Mopar rules🥰🥰
Mopar Slowcar
It's about time it's a mopar
I am curious about this build as I was under the impression some mock assembly and clearance grinding would need to be done to spin the additional .250 stroke I had also heard some special oil plumbing would be necessary and is there a reason for the high volume oil pump? one would think it may put additional stress on the cam gear and cause the cam button to come apart
Part 2 link?
More like this!
How do I find part two of the RB stroker built?
Why didn't you lube up the cam lobes during install. Just wondering.
Not a mopar fan but would love to see 413 bbm dynoed
I recall one of the factory drivers saying they were putting between 410-415 horsepower to the ground. Having driven a wide variety of cars and the times they were turning I'd say yes. Rode in a friends max wedge 413 street Belvedere in the 70's. I don't doubt they were putting out 525 horses at the crank .
Wish I knew what year this aired
Why 112 degrees on the lobe separation? Why not more like 108?
Great engine build video 👍🏻🇦🇺
I like how most of you seem to think (And reply) as if this was filmed in 2022...
That's correct this is an old video just rehashed
Some of the stuff is newer but not all of it then again I stopped watching spike TV about 10 12 Years ago
Can you guys please build a Holden 308 stroker at some stage?
Where can I get a 5.7 LS used engine block only? Any good websites or places (I live in Los Angeles) I have a 2008 Gmc Sierra 1500. I would like to upgrade and built the engine to 400-500hp.
This video is very informative, but you guys failed to mention and even show one important step regarding the Stroker 440;
Mocking up the Short Block to check every Cap Screw for Pan Rail clearance.
Were you limited on air time ? That is priority #1 on a Stroker project unless you know for sure there will not be any contact.
Thats really cool but how much ????
Please excuse the critique, but a 4.25 bore, and a 4.35 stroke equals 505 CID.
Did you have any problems with your pickup tube hitting the rods or crank at all ? And if this engine makes 11 to 1 compression would you put premium gas or would it need an additive ?
I’m doing a stroker build as we speak now, same thing as you guys, I bought one from 440 source but different ingredients then you guys
Nice build
Have you stroked a LT4 (new model) to a 416 or larger? I can't seem to find that episode. Thxs
They should have shot peened the block and removed all the rust then use high temperature engine primer and paint instead of painting over the rust
Not sure where you guys came up 512ci. A 4.35 bore x 4.25 stroke x 8 = 505 ci.
Got the same engine with same crank and bore and I only got 505 am I missing something
Maybe the heads?
@@isaactrockman4417 heads have nothing to do with CI
thanks DAN< the kid at 440 source cant answer why he advertises 512, I have purchased two kits, and not happy ,
YES THE 440
Cheap, powerful, reliable. You can only pick two….
That is my favourite statement, so accurate 👍
@@bigboreracing356 that depends heavily on your definition of each.
@@bigboreracing356 what do you mean? If you have too much money? Subdued expects of what “powerful” or “reliable” is?
@@bigboreracing356 turbo charged Ford 300 will never die and won't cost you a lot
Why wasn't studs used on the rods?
AAAAAA THAT PUPPY EILL FIT RITE IN MY 2001 DODGE RAM1500 YEEEEEES
Well? Where is Part 2?
I like watching these but I love to know the cost of all these built motors
my bet is more than 8k+ or so usd for this tv engine, as i had my BBM go bad so for me 5-20k to replace it without a buddy deal and most of it's just the parts costs and or how willing are you to be on the sketchy side of engine buying and or building. if you know the old hot rod say cheap or fast or reliable but only two so pick one
I'd bet that to get this exact engine build would be$50.000 , $40,000.
@@lawrencefoster2120 clues as to your bid as it sounds simple ish spec's for a moded BBM as 40k is double for what I thought id have to spend to get the same or better
You can buy a complete built motor like this for about $10k USD.
@@tlr-nut7275 well one of is off but i don't have any mates for a better deal. so the why? 🤔
Definitely hoping to go with that 440Source kit for my block when I can afford to do it... it's going to reside in my 1978 Cordoba. The fuel injection is a nice touch as well - any ideas on forced induction?
well on mine BBM i went TT but you need to be more clear about your expectations for boosting yours 😉. and a 78 isn't that a b-body? like my 67-71 ?
@@richardprice5978 I've always adored the idea of a twin-turbo big block MoPar. And yessir! It is also a B-body - with some slight suspension differences, but the majority of the "go fast" stuff interchanges!
@@GreenMountainFox what size is your final CI ? or in L ? and can you weld? or have some some local help say family or friends that can as it makes a difference in mounting the TT or a single big rear mounted in the back bumper/or TT locations vs weld DIY vs bolt on kits if you're looking at rear holly got a kit for chevys that you can modify to work. on mine i whent block hugger so i don't know if you're dog-house is the same as a charger ( 1970 c-bodies are to short for my setup to fit and work correctly or a at least a furry aqtanc i met asked me about a copy of mine and his bay was wider or so at first lookie loo it is but might be wrong about that the fender's seams the same so maybe he cannot use as wide of tires i can ? and i think the hood is lower than my oe 1 so thats another fitment problem with the C ) 🤔 and mines air-water 2 then after-cooled using the RV12 air-con as the finale stage of boost-chilling ( same ish ideas from ford or FCA factory cars like the demon for 40F or less ( but that needs meth spray/misting for the icing probably problem ) on a 80F day ) aka my car is a full power accessory car
@@GreenMountainFox do you live in the usa 🇺🇸 and have a state that does EPA and safety testing ( in my case i have testing but it's farly ish leanent to pass ). turbocharged system works best with EFI ( do not use a carb you are asking for uncle rodny eventually. TBI and CNP is ok ish ) and more so with lsx style system and red mist on youtube and in the forms used jeep and 2009 chevy truck wiring/parts/ECU on his black 440RB charger. any boost works better with computers but carbs can work on draw-though blower's fixed displacement but my 2C not worth it and or recommend to do as the control isn't there and you probably aren't going to shutdown the engine in-time to save it. on my F8 i went with 3" piping for every thing for 600-1200 hp my original goals were 10lb ish psi and sub-660hp ish +or- @ the wheels a 383-400 size engine needs the b2 frame or bigger from borg-EFR in my= 76-70 mm with a 1:0 exhaust housing's and a 2013 is BT6 Cummins VGT turbo will work too ( 1 active unto 3k-rpm and the 2 one coming on at 3500-rpm ) ( right now im redoing the engine building internally so my new set is 4.3X4.5 in stroke and a Tr6070 Z51-gearing 8-3/4@3.2FG+31-tires and yes now the TT are a little small but not 2 bad but being there low mount by the firewall/frame rails i really don't have much more room left for a N3-or-4 sizing ) more so if you do a lot of lower rpms as i had a harder time with match-bot trying not to lag vs overspool and frag it ect. on the computer simulations
with adding a VGT/variability vane ceramic ball bearing turbo you need less space for plumbing ( and less oil more so if the core is water cooled ) and it spools quickly and the aftermarket does have ECU's for some models FYI dust trying to help someone else out as i had a hard time time trying to find resources for for my build when i started in 2015-ish. for oiling you have 3 choices ( and 2 choices for the feed line 1 steal the oil from the seding / oil gage useing a JIC-4 ( 1/4 inch ID hosing ) T-ed off 2X to each turbocharger or a dedicated oiling line off of the oil pump ( and or add a pre-oiler pump or other your pick, but not 💯necessarily but handy and a piece of mind thing ect. ) if you're mechanical inclined this shouldn't be to hard as i said gm guys do this turbo swap thing a lot so its not the same way but you can learn a lot from there mistakes ) high mont = just a extra hole/welding a fitting into the old oil pan ( or maybe using the old oil drainage system/bolt for the fitting but oil changes might be a little bit harder to do with that setup depending on what you for fittings ect. ) , rear and low mont needs a scavenger pump from the bottom of the TT's to the valley/valve covers ( or a taller SS pan but this will only work for front mounted TT i think and gravitational pull and fiting at the bottom of it and maybe a chex valve but i don't know what you plan on driving ( your build/car and you have the final say ect. but im will to help give ideas for it ) like in my case its street/road racing/auto-x and some drag racing mostly street cruising and daily work ect. ) or im my choice was a dry sump from deviant missile its red and replaces the stock cam driven pump and my oil pan is the 1968-SS looking style bedplate but that means that you have to run a rack&piñon steering ( and maybe even a different K-member or at least the bread 🍞 10inchx12~" deep pan on my car wasn't playing nice so on to a tubular 1 ( probably from Q-A1 or a homemade 1 but im keeping the T-bar's ect. ) for me now as i didn't feel like hacking into my og 1 ) ( which is what I chose to do to simplylfi it and i have funny variable compression rods in my new engine but thats not relevant to your setup for now as you are probably using fixed @8to10:1 ) or have the drag link go through the centre of it like the old cars do, look at old pictures and you probably can understand ( and hopefully you can understand my message and didn't get lost or intimidated by it ) what I mean if you have any questions ask id be happy to answer any but i don't have a good way of showing any of my pictures ect.
I really wanna know what car the engine came out of
Hi 👋 👍
You said the pan fits 64 and earlier. I think you meant 64 and later
please explain how you get 512 ci? the math show less,
What is with pound feet of torque all my torque wrenches has FOOT POUND who & when was the change
I love you guys and all your sick builds but I wonder what you guys can do with some old European like German or British or even an old Japanese build
Pat needs more in his shirt pockets
I had a old engine it was a under square cylinder and piston that thing at 2000 rpms would put out 800 hp it was a v8 can you tell my what that engine was it eas a older on thank jack
You make gapping the piston rings seem like a simple job.
Because it is ...
Oh yeah
That "Chrysler Blue" sure looks like the same color as my Detroit Diesel 60 Series🤔...maybe it's the same color.
My 440 i never alined the engine block but thats the only one I dont do block alignment
Awesome stuff! MOPOP is going to be a good way to see why Chrysler was dominating almost every race circuit back in they're heydays! Besides the unibody sometimes lighter vehicles, also sometimes 'Acid Dipped' to make sure they lost as much weight as possible along with the aluminum and fiberglass body panels lol it was all in good measure to assure they had the competitive edge. Though they did stretch some of their production car classes by almost kinda playing in the cheating and not so much cheating areas, it was all about the fun lol!? Right?Well it should be interesting to see how this 440 rebuild turns out compared to the Chevy and Ford big blocks.
***Future Mopar Combo-Poor Man's Hemi" 400 block 440 crank produces an rpm producing monster***
Where is part 2?
You guys should address the effect of altitude on octane ratings. In colorado, because of the altitude, regular unleaded octane is 85.
You just did. Less O requires less fuel for a stoichiometric mix.
Yeah there's so many different gasoline ratings out there why don't you include California land of the 10% ethanol added you can't do everything it's just a f****** TV show
@@mrbillpurcell6203 or,,,,you could just whine about it like a little @#&&%.
Nice 😍
I think you are slacking on the hp guess on this build with that much lift in the cam and aluminum heads.I did enjoy the video.
Nah, they know it’s a Mopar.
will probably be around 640-650hp and 680-700tq
Great video as always thx. I recently got a Ford F350 400ci as an import after engine strip down I found it to have 3 damaged pistons, After a full revode and hone with new 60thou over pistons from rockauto everything went back together perfect. Engine starts and runs really well but once warmed up if you shut down the engine it is very hard to restart it's like having a flat battery slow to turn over starter is good fitted a new one I can only think the engine is a little tight but have never come across this ever before can you suggest something to look for? Thx Nigel in the UK
Check the timing.....it sounds too far advanced
@@newcomerjason7791 hi jason engine runs really good and starts well except when hot but will check thx.
@@bigboreracing356 hi If I lived in the usa and had the cash maybe I would do just that.
Sounds like to much timing advance
I found the problem turned out to be bad battery cables put some new more heavy duty ones on and now perfect no problems.
You guys should have kept that motor and asked them for a ‘72 and after 😅😆 needle in haystack now!
It really is a 1972 model year engine build date of 12/21/1971 was the 72 models. Low compression and maybe 250 HP NET, not gross.
4.250 stroke with 4.350 bore do not equal 512 cubic inches
its Bore x Stroke x 8 cyl....equals a 505 stroker not a 512..
Lucky and tonyo built one too.
With that evap oh rust
This engine DID NOT have 375 HP. The build date is 12/21/1971 making it a 1972 model year with low compression, 8.3:1 and 245HP NET max, not gross.Chevy guys, I swear!!!!
.001" clearance for every 1" of journal diameter is such an arbitrary number! Show me the science behind this. I don't doubt its not a bad standard, but it is definitely NOT the minimum. The dodge viper engine is set up from the factory blueprinted to .0015-.0018" clearance on the 2.5" main journal. This is much tighter than what you have suggested is minimum. Those engines run pretty well to 6500rpm, I believe. When I rebuilt my 488, I did play around with different bearing sets to get .0023-.0027" clearance. I felt better about not spinning or scuffing a bearing, but it also resulted in having to run 20w50 oil to keep my oil pressure up.
its whatever the machinist decides it should be really. the old farts are stuck in the 60s and tend to run wider clearances with thicker oil. the thinking is that there is more oil to absorb shock. the reality is the opposite. lower clearances actually give MORE support and you get to run thinner oil. you just have to keep oil temperature in mind to make sure the oil isnt getting too hot and thinning out. something else that matters is how smooth the crank is polished to. that helps a lot.
i would have spec'd that engine for 0.0018-22 on the mains and rod clearances and ran a synth 5w30 all day so long as oil temps stayed under 220 degrees. no need for those giant ass clearance tolerances. that thinking is as old as the block. that engine should be using 40w oil at a minimum, possibly 50w oil when its up to temp.
Both you gentleman are absolutely correct.
To even pay attention this is also an older system not to mention the fact non roller application requiring greater clearances I didn't know you're such a expert where did you get your degree in engine building who do you work for oh your arm chair
,002-.003 is where builders have been setting bearing clearences on performance engines for decades. .003 is better for very high hp/rpm to allow for increased flexing and/or heat.
Of course they have all the budget they need and a multi million dollar shop.
You mad you're poor because of poor choices in life? Don't make poor financial decisions and you too can have expensive things.
prove the costs? and show me where you can buy parts oem for same?
A paper parts catalog? How old is this build? . . . man, I miss good old paper catalogs. Everything is digital now. I don't want to create an account or put an app on my phone that constantly harasses me. I want to stare at a catalog while sitting on the toilet and plan my build.
you know what I wish you guys would do with that Engine is take it beyond its ability to rev and hopefully it will suck in a valve and disintegrate one of the pistons or multiple pistons
I just like seeing things getting destroyed
I’d love to see Engine Power take a 1980’s or 1990’s 454 truck engine and use 1970 LS6 454 parts, am I the only one here that wants to see that?
Please built me a v10 eco boost and install it in my f350 dually