Turning A Junkyard 440 Into A 512 Stroker Raised Block - Engine Power S3, E9
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- Опубликовано: 26 июн 2024
- The Engine Power team builds a really big RB Mopar. Short-block is covered in part 1 and features the best parts in the business.
0:00 - Intro
1:09 - 440 teardown
3:15 - Machining overview and cleaning
5:30 - Short block assembly
7:22 - Checking Bearing Clearance
8:29 - Crank Install
9:45 - Camshaft and Piston Install
12:57 - Behind the Scenes: How To Plan An Engine Build
15:15 - East Rust Removal
16:47 - Tech Tip: What Octane Fuel To Run
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PARTS USED IN THIS EPISODE:
ARP: Main Studs, 2-Bolt Main, Mopar, Small, Big Block, B, LA, RB, Kit
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_2347
Dupli-Color: Paint, Engine, Enamel with Ceramic Resin, Gloss, Chrysler Blue, 12 oz., Aerosol, Each
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_12343
Evapo-Rust: Cleaning Solution, Evaporust, Rust Remover, 1 Gallon, Each
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_12341
Melling: Oil Pump, High-Volume, Standard Pressure, Chrysler, Big Block, B/RB, Each
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_12354
Milodon: Oil Pan, Steel, Gold Iridite, 7 qt., Mopar, B/RB/Hemi, A, B and E Bodies, Each
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_12345
Milodon: Windage Tray, Steel, Gold Iridite, Louvered, Center Sump, Mopar, Big Block, R/RB/Hemi, Kit
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_12344
Power Stop: Z23 Evolution Sport Track Day. Performance 1-Click Brake Kit
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_12340
Proform Parts ( Specialty Auto Parts U.S.A., Inc.): Timing Cover, One-piece, Steel, Black, Timing Pointer, Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth, Big Block, 426 Hemi, Kit
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_12346
Summit Racing: Harmonic Balancer, SFI, Internal Balance, Steel, Clearcoated, Chrysler, Big Block, Hemi, Each
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_12353
Summit Racing: Harmonic Balancer, SFI, Internal Balance, Steel, Clearcoated, Chrysler, Big Block, Hemi, Each
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_12355
Summit Racing: Timing Chain and Gear Set, True Roller, Double Roller, Billet Steel Sprockets, Mopar, Big Block, Set
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_12352
440Source.com: 512 Cubic-Inch Stroker Kit With Platinum Series Crank, Rods, And Pistons, With Clevite H Series Bearings And Total Seal Rings
Comp Cams: Custom Grind, Hydraulic Roller Camshaft, Rb, Chrysler
Fast Fish Auto Parts: CNC aluminum billet big block Mopar rear main seal retainer and Seal Package
Goodson Shop Supplies: 10 Piece Engine Cleaning Brush Kit
Matco Tools: MST4531 - Harmonic Balancer Puller/Installer
Shacklett Automotive Machine: Family-owned and operated machine shop repairs cylinder heads, engines and motors; performance work and dyno testing available.
Stephens Performance: Pictures And Edit Material
The Industrial Depot: Fasteners, Hardware, and Shop Supplies
WD-40 Specialist: Aerosol, 12 oz., lubricant, water dispersant, penetrant, protectant 
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I love watching them build with all those beautiful aftermarket engine parts nice cranks and rods; pistons. It must be nice having an unlimited access to parts.
The rods are probably $300 a piece.
@@richardturk7162 not even remotely close. These parts are very good in pricing. The 440 cranks are all $799. The rods are $99. The pistons are $599. Definitely a huge bargain for the price.
Everyone has unlimited access to parts , just not the money.
You ain't lying... My machine shop consists of a grinder a welder and a sawzall.
@@Sak-zo1ui many people forget all 440's came with forged crankshafts back in the day for a prolonged period of time, even my luxury cruiser '67 Chrysler 300.They were factory 🏭 balanced as well.
I grew up in southern California in the late 60's and I 70's I saw lots of muscle cars and some of the most plentiful fast cars were 440 Mopar vehicles. I remember one scamp with a built 440 and that car was pretty much the fastest car in almost all of Orange county California. The 440 cuda's were far more plentiful and just as fast or some were even faster than the hemi 426 cuda's. Even some 392 hemi cars with engines left over from the late 50's and early 60's were king's of the street. The Chevelle's with ls6 454 were not that common like the Camaros were but most of the Camaros were 350 small blocks . The 440 was truly the big block king's of the street.
most dont want to hear it.......but its true.
sure it wasn't a green 72 swinger?
Pat has really stepped up over the years to bring knowledge and maturity to these shows!
Keeps us watching!.
Would like to see more modern enginea builds. But still love to see you guys work.
My fav engine -
MOPAR💙
I prefer the old junkyard looking engines and bringing them back to full Glory! Satisfying.
Love the external oil pump,wish they all had that
Another GREAT vid from Powernation!! 👍👍👍
omg that 440 was a beauty!!
i got a rt with the matching engine it has never been apart a 440 tri power i got in 1981 for 500 bucks in very good condition just needed a tune up paint is still good on it
Really cool tip on the cleaning Brushes.
Rebuilt my 77 AMC 360 last summer and found all original bearings. Was interesting to see that AMC measures every journal and put in different sized bearings depending on those measurements.
AMC didn't do that and had they machined it properly, there would be no need to do it. Different sized bearings at different positions means it is a POS.
@@TurboGTO288 You should talk to Honda about that. I don't know about now, but they did exactly what he said for many years. You're just a hater.
This channel is getting a lot better!
Love the mopar builds
DLI did a 440 build years ago in the mopar vs chevy vs ford challenge. Smaller cube 440 waxed both of them pumping out over 780 hp.
And the oldest Design, from 1955. IIRC it was a low deck.
They should make the video twice as long and show more how to seal the motor rear main expecially
@Ashely💋 hey bae
Huh?
Love the RB wedge!!!
Mopar rules🥰🥰
Mopar Slowcar
***Mike Galley is the Man***
#amishmike
That was one sweet buildup! There is one error @ 11:38 worth clarifying, that Milodon 7QT pan fits 1974 and earlier Mopar A,B,C, and E body cars, not 64’ and earlier….if it only fit 64 and earlier that would eliminate E bodies entirely (they debuted in 1970) , C bodies, and the entire muscle car era of A and B body cars.
I love watching Amish Mike showing off his mechanical skills & training by painting something. He really is the Picasso of mechanics
Great engine build video 👍🏻🇦🇺
Pat, I know we’re spoiled now with the stroker options sometimes being cheaper than a performance rebuild but there’s just something satisfying about a big block with a big bore and a short crank. 427 Chevys, 429 fords and 440s in moderate trim just sang a pretty song. For the street, a real 383 with decent heads, ignition and a solid flat tappet would would be a lot of fun in a light car like a Dart, early Barricuda or Duster/Demon
10-4 YALL GOOD WORK
More like this!
that fastfish 1 piece rear main seal and cap can be used on the slant6 's as well . I put them on my slant6 😎🏁
they are expensive! way to much for my thoughts, Been building since 70's and had minimal leaks, its all in care when assy
@@mrbillpurcell6203 yep the parts are high but I did buy the seal cause I got tired of the cheap fel pro seals slowly start leaking . hell even the new one I put on my mildly built 318 just now started a very slow drip. I had everything checked out and still they leaked so I went with the fast fish seal and factory rear cap . waiting to get the slant6 fired up .
Those tolerances are down to a gnats ass very quality part WOW!
Do it right or not at all! Thats a good moto that keeps the after market in business.
Can we expect a Pontiac big block soon? we Poncho fans wanna see some big Poncho power too!
This is me listening to them explain what they’re doing. 😳🤯
Great content. Thanks
Where is my 4.3 build.
248k. It’s almost time.
It's about time it's a mopar
Nice build
I really enjoy the builds and how too and build and tech discussion. Im planning too build a 2054cc vw aircooled motor,with this build im looking at 150hp. I know its not a v6 or v8 motor.
Nice 😍
Damn pat has been hitting the gym. Lost a heap of weight. Good effort. Looking about ten years younger
Sorry Pat, there's nothing in that flask when you drank, great product placement though 😉
Nah he's just such an alcoholic (I'm kidding!) That him drinking an entire flask and felt nothing.
@@aliabdallah102 Pat only uses methanol for race engines never consumption 😁
I like how most of you seem to think (And reply) as if this was filmed in 2022...
That's correct this is an old video just rehashed
Some of the stuff is newer but not all of it then again I stopped watching spike TV about 10 12 Years ago
I wish I lived in this world where the machine shop only takes a few days to machine your block.
Pitter patter, it's all that matters! Mopar content 👌
460 seemed to build best power out of the 3
Yep, Even a Mopar performance bulletin says that, except that was OEM iron heads.
YES THE 440
i once accidently turned a 440 into a 670lbs of scrapmetal...
I am curious about this build as I was under the impression some mock assembly and clearance grinding would need to be done to spin the additional .250 stroke I had also heard some special oil plumbing would be necessary and is there a reason for the high volume oil pump? one would think it may put additional stress on the cam gear and cause the cam button to come apart
🤠 *Master Automotive Sensei 🤓 Pat Automotive Rock Star Mike Galley 🤩; You 2 R A Dynamic T.E.A.M.= & Your: Togetherness, Each Accomplishing More Meticulous Endeavors Having Great Fun; Is Giving Us Your: Audiences / Disciples, Such Simplistic Complete Understanding and With Great Comprehension 2B Better Mechanics Too, We Salute U2 Both* 🤩
Can you guys please build a Holden 308 stroker at some stage?
So that block was casted on my birthday just five years earlier, my bday 12 21 76 .. that block 21 21 71 😉👍
12 21 71
This engine DID NOT have 375 HP. The build date is 12/21/1971 making it a 1972 model year with low compression, 8.3:1 and 245HP NET max, not gross.Chevy guys, I swear!!!!
Part 2 link?
AAAAAA THAT PUPPY EILL FIT RITE IN MY 2001 DODGE RAM1500 YEEEEEES
Have you stroked a LT4 (new model) to a 416 or larger? I can't seem to find that episode. Thxs
Wish I knew what year this aired
Can that be used to free up a locked up engine that might be rusted up
You said the pan fits 64 and earlier. I think you meant 64 and later
Not a mopar fan but would love to see 413 bbm dynoed
I recall one of the factory drivers saying they were putting between 410-415 horsepower to the ground. Having driven a wide variety of cars and the times they were turning I'd say yes. Rode in a friends max wedge 413 street Belvedere in the 70's. I don't doubt they were putting out 525 horses at the crank .
I love you guys and all your sick builds but I wonder what you guys can do with some old European like German or British or even an old Japanese build
Hi 👋 👍
Pat needs more in his shirt pockets
Why didn't you lube up the cam lobes during install. Just wondering.
With that evap oh rust
***Future Mopar Combo-Poor Man's Hemi" 400 block 440 crank produces an rpm producing monster***
was there no reason to check block clearances with the 512 stroker kit?
A paper parts catalog? How old is this build? . . . man, I miss good old paper catalogs. Everything is digital now. I don't want to create an account or put an app on my phone that constantly harasses me. I want to stare at a catalog while sitting on the toilet and plan my build.
How do I find part two of the RB stroker built?
Please excuse the critique, but a 4.25 bore, and a 4.35 stroke equals 505 CID.
How hard is it to find one of these engines? I don't have anything to put it in but I just wanna build one!
Cheap, powerful, reliable. You can only pick two….
That is my favourite statement, so accurate 👍
@@bigboreracing356 that depends heavily on your definition of each.
@@bigboreracing356 what do you mean? If you have too much money? Subdued expects of what “powerful” or “reliable” is?
@@bigboreracing356 turbo charged Ford 300 will never die and won't cost you a lot
Thats really cool but how much ????
Where can I get a 5.7 LS used engine block only? Any good websites or places (I live in Los Angeles) I have a 2008 Gmc Sierra 1500. I would like to upgrade and built the engine to 400-500hp.
Why 112 degrees on the lobe separation? Why not more like 108?
Lucky and tonyo built one too.
Did you have any problems with your pickup tube hitting the rods or crank at all ? And if this engine makes 11 to 1 compression would you put premium gas or would it need an additive ?
I’m doing a stroker build as we speak now, same thing as you guys, I bought one from 440 source but different ingredients then you guys
👍
When it comes to deciding what octane fuel you need to burn you left out the Dynamic Compression Ratio. Engine (A) could run on 89 octane with 11 to 1 CR while engine (B) spark knock's on 89 Octane with 9 to 1 Compression ratio. There is so many people that just pick a Cam out of the catalog and have problems. Dynamic Compression Ratio (DRC) is figured out using valve event timing. You guys should show us how to figure DRC and what octane fuel is required for a giving DRC. That and how coolant temp effects DRC & Octane
Your chamber design also matters. E.g. with the same compression ratio, an old-school hemi will need more timing than a modern 4 valve pentroof, which means the hemi needs higher octane to reach its full potential.
Why wasn't studs used on the rods?
That "Chrysler Blue" sure looks like the same color as my Detroit Diesel 60 Series🤔...maybe it's the same color.
What is with pound feet of torque all my torque wrenches has FOOT POUND who & when was the change
Definitely hoping to go with that 440Source kit for my block when I can afford to do it... it's going to reside in my 1978 Cordoba. The fuel injection is a nice touch as well - any ideas on forced induction?
well on mine BBM i went TT but you need to be more clear about your expectations for boosting yours 😉. and a 78 isn't that a b-body? like my 67-71 ?
@@richardprice5978 I've always adored the idea of a twin-turbo big block MoPar. And yessir! It is also a B-body - with some slight suspension differences, but the majority of the "go fast" stuff interchanges!
@@JarrodES13 what size is your final CI ? or in L ? and can you weld? or have some some local help say family or friends that can as it makes a difference in mounting the TT or a single big rear mounted in the back bumper/or TT locations vs weld DIY vs bolt on kits if you're looking at rear holly got a kit for chevys that you can modify to work. on mine i whent block hugger so i don't know if you're dog-house is the same as a charger ( 1970 c-bodies are to short for my setup to fit and work correctly or a at least a furry aqtanc i met asked me about a copy of mine and his bay was wider or so at first lookie loo it is but might be wrong about that the fender's seams the same so maybe he cannot use as wide of tires i can ? and i think the hood is lower than my oe 1 so thats another fitment problem with the C ) 🤔 and mines air-water 2 then after-cooled using the RV12 air-con as the finale stage of boost-chilling ( same ish ideas from ford or FCA factory cars like the demon for 40F or less ( but that needs meth spray/misting for the icing probably problem ) on a 80F day ) aka my car is a full power accessory car
@@JarrodES13 do you live in the usa 🇺🇸 and have a state that does EPA and safety testing ( in my case i have testing but it's farly ish leanent to pass ). turbocharged system works best with EFI ( do not use a carb you are asking for uncle rodny eventually. TBI and CNP is ok ish ) and more so with lsx style system and red mist on youtube and in the forms used jeep and 2009 chevy truck wiring/parts/ECU on his black 440RB charger. any boost works better with computers but carbs can work on draw-though blower's fixed displacement but my 2C not worth it and or recommend to do as the control isn't there and you probably aren't going to shutdown the engine in-time to save it. on my F8 i went with 3" piping for every thing for 600-1200 hp my original goals were 10lb ish psi and sub-660hp ish +or- @ the wheels a 383-400 size engine needs the b2 frame or bigger from borg-EFR in my= 76-70 mm with a 1:0 exhaust housing's and a 2013 is BT6 Cummins VGT turbo will work too ( 1 active unto 3k-rpm and the 2 one coming on at 3500-rpm ) ( right now im redoing the engine building internally so my new set is 4.3X4.5 in stroke and a Tr6070 Z51-gearing 8-3/4@3.2FG+31-tires and yes now the TT are a little small but not 2 bad but being there low mount by the firewall/frame rails i really don't have much more room left for a N3-or-4 sizing ) more so if you do a lot of lower rpms as i had a harder time with match-bot trying not to lag vs overspool and frag it ect. on the computer simulations
with adding a VGT/variability vane ceramic ball bearing turbo you need less space for plumbing ( and less oil more so if the core is water cooled ) and it spools quickly and the aftermarket does have ECU's for some models FYI dust trying to help someone else out as i had a hard time time trying to find resources for for my build when i started in 2015-ish. for oiling you have 3 choices ( and 2 choices for the feed line 1 steal the oil from the seding / oil gage useing a JIC-4 ( 1/4 inch ID hosing ) T-ed off 2X to each turbocharger or a dedicated oiling line off of the oil pump ( and or add a pre-oiler pump or other your pick, but not 💯necessarily but handy and a piece of mind thing ect. ) if you're mechanical inclined this shouldn't be to hard as i said gm guys do this turbo swap thing a lot so its not the same way but you can learn a lot from there mistakes ) high mont = just a extra hole/welding a fitting into the old oil pan ( or maybe using the old oil drainage system/bolt for the fitting but oil changes might be a little bit harder to do with that setup depending on what you for fittings ect. ) , rear and low mont needs a scavenger pump from the bottom of the TT's to the valley/valve covers ( or a taller SS pan but this will only work for front mounted TT i think and gravitational pull and fiting at the bottom of it and maybe a chex valve but i don't know what you plan on driving ( your build/car and you have the final say ect. but im will to help give ideas for it ) like in my case its street/road racing/auto-x and some drag racing mostly street cruising and daily work ect. ) or im my choice was a dry sump from deviant missile its red and replaces the stock cam driven pump and my oil pan is the 1968-SS looking style bedplate but that means that you have to run a rack&piñon steering ( and maybe even a different K-member or at least the bread 🍞 10inchx12~" deep pan on my car wasn't playing nice so on to a tubular 1 ( probably from Q-A1 or a homemade 1 but im keeping the T-bar's ect. ) for me now as i didn't feel like hacking into my og 1 ) ( which is what I chose to do to simplylfi it and i have funny variable compression rods in my new engine but thats not relevant to your setup for now as you are probably using fixed @8to10:1 ) or have the drag link go through the centre of it like the old cars do, look at old pictures and you probably can understand ( and hopefully you can understand my message and didn't get lost or intimidated by it ) what I mean if you have any questions ask id be happy to answer any but i don't have a good way of showing any of my pictures ect.
you know what I wish you guys would do with that Engine is take it beyond its ability to rev and hopefully it will suck in a valve and disintegrate one of the pistons or multiple pistons
I just like seeing things getting destroyed
I like watching these but I love to know the cost of all these built motors
my bet is more than 8k+ or so usd for this tv engine, as i had my BBM go bad so for me 5-20k to replace it without a buddy deal and most of it's just the parts costs and or how willing are you to be on the sketchy side of engine buying and or building. if you know the old hot rod say cheap or fast or reliable but only two so pick one
I'd bet that to get this exact engine build would be$50.000 , $40,000.
@@lawrencefoster2120 clues as to your bid as it sounds simple ish spec's for a moded BBM as 40k is double for what I thought id have to spend to get the same or better
You can buy a complete built motor like this for about $10k USD.
@@tlr-nut7275 well one of is off but i don't have any mates for a better deal. so the why? 🤔
This video is very informative, but you guys failed to mention and even show one important step regarding the Stroker 440;
Mocking up the Short Block to check every Cap Screw for Pan Rail clearance.
Were you limited on air time ? That is priority #1 on a Stroker project unless you know for sure there will not be any contact.
4.250 stroke with 4.350 bore do not equal 512 cubic inches
its Bore x Stroke x 8 cyl....equals a 505 stroker not a 512..
I really wanna know what car the engine came out of
Not sure where you guys came up 512ci. A 4.35 bore x 4.25 stroke x 8 = 505 ci.
Got the same engine with same crank and bore and I only got 505 am I missing something
Maybe the heads?
@@isaactrockman4417 heads have nothing to do with CI
thanks DAN< the kid at 440 source cant answer why he advertises 512, I have purchased two kits, and not happy ,
please explain how you get 512 ci? the math show less,
Where is part 2?
Please built me a v10 eco boost and install it in my f350 dually
I like the brushes that clean the galleys and all the fun little holes. However when you put the block in a tank to wash it is there a pressure that flows through all these galleys and washes out the debris? Thank you.
120.00 fo rthose brushes OUCH the company is proud of them, Goodson
because no one in Aftermarket will build a nice cheap iron block 440 anymore. MOPAR was last ones to do so
Lobe separation tells us little, use valve overlap, that will tell us a lot. Never use .050 start lift, that tells us little or nothing, use .005 or .006 start lift this tells a lot more on the camshaft and how its going to react in horsepower.
Isn’t a 30 over 440 with a 7.1 rod 505 cubic inches... ? They keep calling it a 512.
To be more specific... a 4.250" stroke they stated... yes it should be 505 cu.in.
yeah, 0.060 over would make it a 512
I agree, tried to complain to 440sourse
Great video as always thx. I recently got a Ford F350 400ci as an import after engine strip down I found it to have 3 damaged pistons, After a full revode and hone with new 60thou over pistons from rockauto everything went back together perfect. Engine starts and runs really well but once warmed up if you shut down the engine it is very hard to restart it's like having a flat battery slow to turn over starter is good fitted a new one I can only think the engine is a little tight but have never come across this ever before can you suggest something to look for? Thx Nigel in the UK
Check the timing.....it sounds too far advanced
@@newcomerjason7791 hi jason engine runs really good and starts well except when hot but will check thx.
@@bigboreracing356 hi If I lived in the usa and had the cash maybe I would do just that.
Sounds like to much timing advance
I found the problem turned out to be bad battery cables put some new more heavy duty ones on and now perfect no problems.
Well? Where is Part 2?
You make gapping the piston rings seem like a simple job.
Because it is ...
Oh yeah
I think you are slacking on the hp guess on this build with that much lift in the cam and aluminum heads.I did enjoy the video.
Nah, they know it’s a Mopar.
will probably be around 640-650hp and 680-700tq
How did you degree the cam before the pistons went in? Looks like you installed 1 did the timing then did the rest
That block came from my sister's hometown....
We missed you Mike
Mike Galley?
Mike "oil" Gallery
Of course they have all the budget they need and a multi million dollar shop.
You mad you're poor because of poor choices in life? Don't make poor financial decisions and you too can have expensive things.
prove the costs? and show me where you can buy parts oem for same?