Picked my short block 383 up from the machine shop this past Friday. Put it on the stand this morning and going to do this job this evening. I am so pumped! Thanks for the detailed videos Pete's Garage.
I have installed many cams, but NEVER have I seen or done it the way you just did. Once the cam is in, I never pull it out again till it's replacement time. Install the cam and crank gear. Then put the chain on the cam sprocket and install the sprocket onto the cam. Bolt in...
That is definitely a way to do it, and I always do it that way with 1 bolt cams. This cam has 3 bolts and it's a bit clumsy to keep the timing set and get the alignment pin in while trying to get an off-center bolt it. Thanks for the comment
@@PetesGarage I won't do it this way for fear of scraping the cam bearing. Maybe it's due to having the camera in your way, but 3-bolt is just as easy to do and no worries about scraping the cam bearings...
i'll leave this here: ruclips.net/video/COs0BG9bQqQ/видео.html Keep in mind he lives in Australia and he's a teacher who teaches automotive to high school kids, but he's down to earth and fun to watch. (he also doing a ford in this video).
Hi Pete! I saw you go dot to dot on the timing chain. I saw once someone putting a 383 stroker together and he strongly advise not to go dot to dot, he use the expressions ... " the engine will never turn over " Thanks again for your inspirering videos.
Thank again Pete. Your vids are liked here' The wife came into the office after listening form the other room and said. Can i see a Cam card i wont to try the math
Just got back from hunting and haven't even watched all of it yet and can't wait. People can learn so much from Pete 👍🏻 incredible channel and I'm surprised Pete don't have millions of subscribers. Thanks again Pete for your hard work and time to make such incredible videos.
503xROCKSTARxS14 I agree. Always surprised as well. I'm guessing generally people don't build engines. Thankfully this channel is here because it's so unique. The depth of the channel and knowledge is priceless. Thanks Pete for what you share
Your builds are so clean and look aweasome. After the first of the year I have a 4.6 v8 that I want to rebuild for my f150. Think it's possible to get 500-600hp out of it? I wanted something different for my truck because it's going to be lifted with a 4 wheel drive.
Pete's Garage I realize that. it would be a ground up build that would take a while. Different crank, cam, heads, intake. Upgrade my fuel injection, etc, etc. Then trying to decide if I wanna go supercharger or turbo. I only have the stock two valve heads right now, notorious for blowing the plugs. I also know I'll have to probably change the axles and the tranny too to handle that type of hp and torque that I want. I just don't know what to do about the transfer case, if I would have to upgrade that as well or go with a higher performance option.
Pete love your videos. I just installed a Hughes Engines Cam in my 440 build. Put all the assembly lube on cam after cleaning. I noticed your cam spun way easier when you installed it them mine did. I couldn't twist mine by hand. Could be because I have a one bolt.
That is concerning. If it is that hard to turn I would pull it out and make sure there is nothing on the bearing surfaces. Put is back in and turn it when you reach each bearing. If one of them is ever so slightly crooked it will bind.
Been watching your vids. Im not a Mopar guy but have one that a customer brought in and its giving me fits. Its a 440 wedge motor. Its just been rebuilt and all new parts. 850 holly brawler carb and edelbrick intake. The headers are garbage and hit the plug boots even dimpled they are burning the plug boots and headers are glowing red if I keep it running. I was able to check timing and its at 8degrees . Then I have to shut it off before it gets to hot. At 225 degrees I shut it off for fear of it getting to hot. Thermostat seems to be working fine. I talked to the engine builder and he says he checked the push rod length and shimmed the springs to spec for the comp cam. The rockers have no adjustment so they can not be adjusted. But to me it seems valve adjustment related. I have even installed ceramic boots and the rubber inside them melts and plug wires fry at the plug. The distributer is a Mallory unilite. The number 8 cylinder header tube is so close a short spark plug has to be used and still hits the tube. I still think I should be able yo get the engine running and not burn up the motor even with the crappy headers. Do you have any ideas on what to check or do to see what the issue could be. If it was an adjustable rockers set up That would be the first thing I would do is double check my valve timing. All my experience is no good here on this one. Another note. The heads were so bad that the motor builder said he had to resurface the spring pockets because they were gouged out from incorrect springs. This should be a simple break in and tune but turning into a night mare. 6 plug wires so far its eaten and two plugs. If you have any ideas or things to check let me know. Also I'm not sure but I see the intermediate shaft between the dist and oil pump. Is there any way that would make any difference if off a tooth ? When I dropped in dist I made sure to set it at correct postion so it seems to be correct. Wires correct. Fuel adequate to keep cylinders cool. It seems valve timing is off. Firing order is same as chevy so I had that down.
Are you getting oil pressure immediately? The headers won't make it overheat. It's either timing, too lean, or air pocket in the cooling system. Even though it's an 850 carb, it can be jetted too small on the primaries.
Does TDC correspond to the timing mark at 0° with the harmonic balancer. If it's a used factory harmonic balancer the outer ring can slip throwing off you're timing. Glowing headers at idle is an indication of retarded timing.
@@a70duster Im not sure what the trouble turned out to be. I got worried when I pulled the headers off to put on a stock exhaust manifold and see if I could keep the spark plug wires from melting and one if the bolts stated leaking water. I called the customer to tell him and he tells me that its common on these motors. Someone put in long bolts and pierced the water passage. He said just put high temp silicone and it will be fine. Just get it running good for me. Its okay if it rusts the bolt. I had him pick it up that Friday. No charge for my time so far. Just take it.
I have always installed a cam shaft in the block, before the crankshaft, that way I have complete control of the installation, no chance of damage to cam bearings. I have been doing it that way since 1963, when I started my apprenticeship at 16, and never had any problems.
i have a problem.have a similar gear set like that.big block mopar.its set at 4 degrees advanced.headers glow red,wont idle,gets hot fast .should i go back to zero
What is the benefit of leaving intake valves open beyond bottom dead center? It seems like back pressure would be created for m the fuel system, and be a waste of the opportunity to create higher compression.
JOHN DEERE how does leaving a valve open beyond BDC create more HP? You then have a valve open at the beginning of a compression stroke seems like it would lose (not gain) horsepower.
Pete's Garage this may be a great whiteboard lesson...deeper dive into the science behind 'dynamic compression.' I can picture in my mind two things at play: 1. Inertia of air/fuel entering the combustion chamber gives a split second of opportunity to leave the valve open and draw in more fuel. 2. A slight vacuum (lower pressure) at the bottom of the cylinder gives opportunity (time) to leave the intake valve open for the same reason. Am I close? More SCIENCE please!!! No-flat-earthers need pay attention. Haha!
Thanks for the very helpful video! This is my second 440 build and while the first went smoothly with the cam button this build seems to have excessive clearance between cam button and timing cover. I have .157 clearance and this seems like too much. I am using same timing cover, timing set and cam button as last build but different cam. I have measured and remeasured and still come up with about .157 gap. Does this seem excessive to you? Not sure how to make up such a large gap. Any thoughts? Thanks
it's always been easier for me to put both sprockets on at the same time, rather than pulling the cam out and resting the lobes on the bearings(like you avoided earlier)
It makes sense not to lube the lobes initially, but why does Comp Cams instruct to lube the lobes and oil the journals? You would think that assembly lube would be better for the journals. Also, their instructions don't mention the thrust bearing for the back of the cam timing gear, even though it had one on the old cam. I bought the "kit" from Comp Cams, and it didn't come with one either. Thanks!
That's a great question. They are the manufacturer so if there is a problem they can can you did not follow their recommendations is my guess. I always lube thrust surfaces on the cam and crank, that also makes sense.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to upload. I'm guessing the way you show the timing set here shows the cam install as "dot to dot" or straight up??
@@PetesGarage thanks for your reply. I'm assuming since the crank keyway is a multiple type, the advance and retard settings on it would be same as degreeing the cam to that spec? Or am I way off base here?
It's much easier to install the chain on both gears before installing them on the cam/crank. Then there is no fiddling with the camshaft nicking up bearings or anything.
Hey Pete, I ordered a new Howard Roller Cam for my 440 and figured I’d replace just about everything including the timing gears and chain...question is how did you find out what size bolts worked for the timing gear on the camshaft
@Pete'sGarage Why do you need a cam button if the cam wants to move to the rear? Would it be safe to complete this build without the button? Was the purpose of the cam button just an extra step of measure?
Looks Like A Howards Cam Timing Set - I have had some tight chains before , I pull the camshaft out just far enough so the journals are still resting inside the bearings just barely , then looking at the crankshaft you will see it is slightly recessed or smaller right before the crank gear slides into final position on the crankshaft - Keep the crank gear on that smaller recessed area , have your timing chain around both gears , then slide the camshaft gear into position on the cam , then push the crank gear and camshaft/gear back into final position
Hi Pete! how come many start putting in cambarings and then the cam as first. Is it because had the maschine shop put on the cambarings too. Otherwise how can you see and know if it is put in order. Thanks for the great efforts you tell us .... crankshaft inplay ... top dead center .... whole in one. I have seen many videos with assembling engines with no explaining the meaning of the terms. Thanks a lot Pete im a super fan from Sweden
Thank you Christian. It is a preference. I prefer to put the cam in after the crankshaft and pistons are in in case I drop a bolt. I don't want to nick the cam lobes.
I know lots of people do that, but soaking overnight is kind of an old wives tale. Not a single engine manufacturer soaks any parts in oil. They are installed straight to the engine, right form the supplier.
I completely disagree with how you put the chain on. It would be and is much easier to leave the cam gear off and put the chain on both gears and then bolt it up. You risk damaging the cam bearings doing it your way. I have been building engines since 1965 and I would never do it your way.
Agreed, the risk to the bearings is significant. I have never seen or heard of it being done your way. I have only rebuilt a few engines, but I have done many timing chains (usually in the vehicle).
Always degree the cam , seen a few motor builds that they didn't degree the cams and they were way off. And they were built by supposedly reputable builders
Im alittle Surprised you didnt degree the camshaft....all those nice positions on the crank gear are there to get your intake center line where the manufacturer wants it...ive had factory cranks off by several degrees....if you dont ck...you dont really know...🤔
Probably an amateur question, but have you ever seen a gap between the back of the cam and the rear of the block? I've been told it's normal and the cam can't move due to the cut of the cam/flat tappet lifters and the cam gear holding it, but I'd like to be 100% certain. Video link below for explanation. ruclips.net/video/V_YH0TN0uLI/видео.html
Don't worry about that back movement. The cam gear will hold it in place. The cam on this engine will thrust forward towards the cover so it's not a huge deal.
Hi Pete, any chance you could do a video of 'actually' advancing/retarding a cam.?? Then recheck valve to piston clearances etc... As commented, there isn't a good video of anyone moving the cam independant to the crank, it's always dot-to-dot. Cheers from Australia.
Pete im really struggling with intake centerline for the mopar trickflow cam. I have found TDC multiple times to confirm accuracy with a piston stop. They tell me centerline should be 104 degrees. Im getting 30 degrees and also 110 at .050 on my gauge. So im assuming this means 110+30/2= 70 When i called trickflow they seemed to have a hard time giving me the centerline number. They had to get with engineers and i got the run around i feel. Your one of my last resources, and figure you might know being you did the trickflow 240 heads.
I figured out my issue. My crank sprocket ⚙️ was installed at 0 with the woodrruf key. This gave me 70 as centerline vs 103 which is what i got after changing positions to 4 advanced on the crank.
@@PetesGarage Thanks for the reply, I always appreciate it. It is always something simple. It was really driving me nuts, because i have degreed a cam a few times. What was your 440 static compression you built? Mine is targeted at 10.42:1 and 8.53:1 dynamic with the trickflow cam. I didn’t know my compression ratio prior to measuring everything because it was an unknown build.
I will keep watching but I think I noticed the cam card said to degree at 4 degrees forward at 106. I also thought you should put a torrington bearing behind the cam sprocket but I'm not sure. Just asking.
The cam card is saying what the specs are at 106 degrees installed. You can advance the timing if you wish, and check valve clearance, but I wanted to slightly tame it down for a better idle so it's installed straight up. No Torrington bearing is needed.
The last 440 build was for customer of (Back Woods Racin) put the hemi challenger car on trl first round in heads up grudge match gangster 1/8 mile here in GA / don't under estimate the 440 in a road runner!!!!!!!
Picked my short block 383 up from the machine shop this past Friday. Put it on the stand this morning and going to do this job this evening. I am so pumped! Thanks for the detailed videos Pete's Garage.
Awesome! Have fun
Movin along Pete. Looking good.
Thanks my friend
I have installed many cams, but NEVER have I seen or done it the way you just did. Once the cam is in, I never pull it out again till it's replacement time. Install the cam and crank gear. Then put the chain on the cam sprocket and install the sprocket onto the cam. Bolt in...
That is definitely a way to do it, and I always do it that way with 1 bolt cams. This cam has 3 bolts and it's a bit clumsy to keep the timing set and get the alignment pin in while trying to get an off-center bolt it. Thanks for the comment
Sometimes the chain is to tight - Have had a few where I have done it like I mentioned above
@@PetesGarage I won't do it this way for fear of scraping the cam bearing. Maybe it's due to having the camera in your way, but 3-bolt is just as easy to do and no worries about scraping the cam bearings...
I've been searching for a video to know how to time an engine for a long time
This is it it's the only video that helped
Hands down
Awesome! Thanks
i'll leave this here: ruclips.net/video/COs0BG9bQqQ/видео.html
Keep in mind he lives in Australia and he's a teacher who teaches automotive to high school kids, but he's down to earth and fun to watch. (he also doing a ford in this video).
Hi Pete! I saw you go dot to dot on the timing chain. I saw once someone putting a 383 stroker together and he strongly advise not to go dot to dot, he use the expressions ... " the engine will never turn over " Thanks again for your inspirering videos.
It really depends on the timing gear set used.
OK! i got it thanks ........
Thank again Pete. Your vids are liked here' The wife came into the office after listening form the other room and said. Can i see a Cam card i wont to try the math
Thank you my friend. Having her do the math is one way to work as a team. I have a cam and engine math videos.
Just got back from hunting and haven't even watched all of it yet and can't wait. People can learn so much from Pete 👍🏻 incredible channel and I'm surprised Pete don't have millions of subscribers. Thanks again Pete for your hard work and time to make such incredible videos.
Thank you very much my friend. I wish I had millions of subscribers, but I'm not doing it for that, as long as I help 1 person.
503xROCKSTARxS14 I agree. Always surprised as well. I'm guessing generally people don't build engines. Thankfully this channel is here because it's so unique. The depth of the channel and knowledge is priceless. Thanks Pete for what you share
I like the MOPAR cam set up.
It is pretty neat
This was extremely informative as I would like to rebuild my 400 magnum on my 74 Charger. Thanks Pete. 👍
Thanks my friend
Great video! Thanks for the information!
Thanks Chris
Thanks pete. Its really great to "see" how its done. Reading all about it is not so easy for me. Now im confident. I apprecciate your good work!
You can do it Johnny
Excellent, Very well explained. I have a 440 in my R/T and will be installing a cam in the spring.
Awesome! Good luck
Like Pete said earlier everybody does it different, Good video...after 45 years of building Engines I still could learn something new.......
Thanks Roy
I noticed the nice shiny new oil pump shaft bushing.
Oh yeah...I'll talk about that when I get to the half shaft.
I’ve raced Mopar’s since 1972. I’ve never put the chain on with the gear bolted on. 🤷🏾♂️
I guess whatever works. But I appreciate the videos.
It's a preference
Excellent way of learning very interesting!
Thank you very much
Your builds are so clean and look aweasome. After the first of the year I have a 4.6 v8 that I want to rebuild for my f150. Think it's possible to get 500-600hp out of it? I wanted something different for my truck because it's going to be lifted with a 4 wheel drive.
Thanks Robert. 500 is quite a bit for a 4.6, not impossible, but expensive
Pete's Garage I realize that. it would be a ground up build that would take a while. Different crank, cam, heads, intake. Upgrade my fuel injection, etc, etc. Then trying to decide if I wanna go supercharger or turbo. I only have the stock two valve heads right now, notorious for blowing the plugs. I also know I'll have to probably change the axles and the tranny too to handle that type of hp and torque that I want. I just don't know what to do about the transfer case, if I would have to upgrade that as well or go with a higher performance option.
Pete love your videos. I just installed a Hughes Engines Cam in my 440 build. Put all the assembly lube on cam after cleaning. I noticed your cam spun way easier when you installed it them mine did. I couldn't twist mine by hand. Could be because I have a one bolt.
That is concerning. If it is that hard to turn I would pull it out and make sure there is nothing on the bearing surfaces. Put is back in and turn it when you reach each bearing. If one of them is ever so slightly crooked it will bind.
Nice bottom cam gear👍👍👍👍👍
i have the same timing chain set up iam consern on the bottom crank shaft sprocket is it sopost to loose when you slide the chain on?
Nice video Pete!
Thanks my friend
I thought they used magic to do that, until you explained it. Good vid
Thanks my friend
Pete, what make of double roller and gears are you installing.
Cloyes
Pete's Garage Thank you sir. Keep up the great work
Hi there Pete...Did you remove the washers on the cam bolts to install the cam button? Thanks...Tom Lacy
Depending on the combination of bolts and button, you may have to trim down the washers to get the button to fit
It's looking good does the springs come with the cam or you get them separately.
If you mean valve springs, they will come with the heads unless you build the head yourself
BEST MOPAR BUILD VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Wayne
@@PetesGarage LEARNED A LOT AND WILL REFERENCE THIS VID WHEN I BUILD MY STROKER
Been watching your vids. Im not a Mopar guy but have one that a customer brought in and its giving me fits. Its a 440 wedge motor. Its just been rebuilt and all new parts. 850 holly brawler carb and edelbrick intake. The headers are garbage and hit the plug boots even dimpled they are burning the plug boots and headers are glowing red if I keep it running. I was able to check timing and its at 8degrees . Then I have to shut it off before it gets to hot. At 225 degrees I shut it off for fear of it getting to hot. Thermostat seems to be working fine. I talked to the engine builder and he says he checked the push rod length and shimmed the springs to spec for the comp cam. The rockers have no adjustment so they can not be adjusted. But to me it seems valve adjustment related. I have even installed ceramic boots and the rubber inside them melts and plug wires fry at the plug. The distributer is a Mallory unilite. The number 8 cylinder header tube is so close a short spark plug has to be used and still hits the tube. I still think I should be able yo get the engine running and not burn up the motor even with the crappy headers. Do you have any ideas on what to check or do to see what the issue could be. If it was an adjustable rockers set up That would be the first thing I would do is double check my valve timing. All my experience is no good here on this one. Another note. The heads were so bad that the motor builder said he had to resurface the spring pockets because they were gouged out from incorrect springs. This should be a simple break in and tune but turning into a night mare. 6 plug wires so far its eaten and two plugs. If you have any ideas or things to check let me know. Also I'm not sure but I see the intermediate shaft between the dist and oil pump. Is there any way that would make any difference if off a tooth ? When I dropped in dist I made sure to set it at correct postion so it seems to be correct. Wires correct. Fuel adequate to keep cylinders cool. It seems valve timing is off. Firing order is same as chevy so I had that down.
Are you getting oil pressure immediately? The headers won't make it overheat. It's either timing, too lean, or air pocket in the cooling system. Even though it's an 850 carb, it can be jetted too small on the primaries.
Does TDC correspond to the timing mark at 0° with the harmonic balancer. If it's a used factory harmonic balancer the outer ring can slip throwing off you're timing.
Glowing headers at idle is an indication of retarded timing.
@@a70duster Im not sure what the trouble turned out to be. I got worried when I pulled the headers off to put on a stock exhaust manifold and see if I could keep the spark plug wires from melting and one if the bolts stated leaking water. I called the customer to tell him and he tells me that its common on these motors. Someone put in long bolts and pierced the water passage. He said just put high temp silicone and it will be fine. Just get it running good for me. Its okay if it rusts the bolt. I had him pick it up that Friday. No charge for my time so far. Just take it.
I have always installed a cam shaft in the block, before the crankshaft, that way I have complete control of the installation, no chance of damage to cam bearings.
I have been doing it that way since 1963, when I started my apprenticeship at 16, and never had any problems.
Sure, that always works. I prefer to do it after the crank and pistons are in in case a nut or rod bolt falls in. Don't want to nick the cam.
Great video 👍🏻! How far " in the hole" are the pistons?
Depends where the crank is
Same question, how far “in the hole” are the pistons at top dead center?
Great vid those roller lifters look expensive. Could you just use plain solid lifters? Thanks Pete.
They are the best. A roller cam is ground different than a roller cam, so no, you could not use solid lifters without changing the cam.
i have a problem.have a similar gear set like that.big block mopar.its set at 4 degrees advanced.headers glow red,wont idle,gets hot fast .should i go back to zero
Yeah, that's a lot of advance
What is the benefit of leaving intake valves open beyond bottom dead center? It seems like back pressure would be created for m the fuel system, and be a waste of the opportunity to create higher compression.
MORE POWER...
JOHN DEERE how does leaving a valve open beyond BDC create more HP? You then have a valve open at the beginning of a compression stroke seems like it would lose (not gain) horsepower.
It's all about the dynamic compression. You want to make sure the cylinder is completely full or empty before the valves close.
Pete's Garage this may be a great whiteboard lesson...deeper dive into the science behind 'dynamic compression.' I can picture in my mind two things at play:
1. Inertia of air/fuel entering the combustion chamber gives a split second of opportunity to leave the valve open and draw in more fuel.
2. A slight vacuum (lower pressure) at the bottom of the cylinder gives opportunity (time) to leave the intake valve open for the same reason.
Am I close? More SCIENCE please!!!
No-flat-earthers need pay attention. Haha!
You are very close. I have an intake manifold theory video you would be interested in
Thanks for the very helpful video! This is my second 440 build and while the first went smoothly with the cam button this build seems to have excessive clearance between cam button and timing cover. I have .157 clearance and this seems like too much. I am using same timing cover, timing set and cam button as last build but different cam. I have measured and remeasured and still come up with about .157 gap. Does this seem excessive to you? Not sure how to make up such a large gap. Any thoughts? Thanks
Interesting, you can put a shim behind it. It would be nice to know what's different
Great video as always, Always learn or get a great review from small engine repair program.
Thanks Jonathan
it's always been easier for me to put both sprockets on at the same time, rather than pulling the cam out and resting the lobes on the bearings(like you avoided earlier)
I agree. I do that when I have a single bolt cam.
It makes sense not to lube the lobes initially, but why does Comp Cams instruct to lube the lobes and oil the journals? You would think that assembly lube would be better for the journals. Also, their instructions don't mention the thrust bearing for the back of the cam timing gear, even though it had one on the old cam. I bought the "kit" from Comp Cams, and it didn't come with one either. Thanks!
That's a great question. They are the manufacturer so if there is a problem they can can you did not follow their recommendations is my guess. I always lube thrust surfaces on the cam and crank, that also makes sense.
As far as finding the TDC, does it matter if you are on the exhaust stroke or intake stroke? If so how do you know which one is which?
Until you put the cam in there is no intake or exhaust stroke. Intake stroke happens right after the exhaust valve closes
@@PetesGarage thank you! Working on a 318 poly head and this is my first build, so I'm still trying to learn and retain as much as possible.
Did I miss the cam bearing installation
You did not. I have the machine shop do that, they have all of the different tools needed.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to upload. I'm guessing the way you show the timing set here shows the cam install as "dot to dot" or straight up??
It it straight up timing, correct
@@PetesGarage thanks for your reply. I'm assuming since the crank keyway is a multiple type, the advance and retard settings on it would be same as degreeing the cam to that spec? Or am I way off base here?
@@PetesGarage Thanks again! That seems like the easier way to do things!
@@PetesGarage For example if you advanced 2 degrees....you would put the A2 slot on the keyway??
Correct
Looks like your building (from cam specs, and with good heads) for around 600 HP? What ratio rocker arms?
Rocker arm video in two weeks.
All that information in the next video this week
It's much easier to install the chain on both gears before installing them on the cam/crank. Then there is no fiddling with the camshaft nicking up bearings or anything.
It sure is
Hey Pete, I ordered a new Howard Roller Cam for my 440 and figured I’d replace just about everything including the timing gears and chain...question is how did you find out what size bolts worked for the timing gear on the camshaft
They should be the standard size
@Pete'sGarage Why do you need a cam button if the cam wants to move to the rear? Would it be safe to complete this build without the button? Was the purpose of the cam button just an extra step of measure?
The cam does not have a retention plate like on other engines
A roller cam requires a button because it thrusts forward. A flat tappet cam doesn’t require a button on a big block Chrysler.
hey Pete. have you ever installed a timing chain where you have to set the cam gear dot at the top 12 o'clock position?
Yes
@@PetesGarage thank you Must of been a Mopar engine.
Who fitted the cam bearings?
I have the machine shop do it
Excellent.
Interesting that you actually pull the cam back out to install t-chain.
Not that much, just off the bearing
Looks Like A Howards Cam Timing Set - I have had some tight chains before , I pull the camshaft out just far enough so the journals are still resting inside the bearings just barely , then looking at the crankshaft you will see it is slightly recessed or smaller right before the crank gear slides into final position on the crankshaft - Keep the crank gear on that smaller recessed area , have your timing chain around both gears , then slide the camshaft gear into position on the cam , then push the crank gear and camshaft/gear back into final position
Great comment, thank you for sharing
Hey man how do you get manufacturer specs
They are easy to find online.
are you referring to cam specs? The cam should come with a spec sheet, a wheel, and instructions.
Hi Pete! how come many start putting in cambarings and then the cam as first. Is it because had the maschine shop put on the cambarings too. Otherwise how can you see and know if it is put in order. Thanks for the great efforts you tell us .... crankshaft inplay ... top dead center .... whole in one. I have seen many videos with assembling engines with no explaining the meaning of the terms. Thanks a lot Pete im a super fan from Sweden
Thank you Christian. It is a preference. I prefer to put the cam in after the crankshaft and pistons are in in case I drop a bolt. I don't want to nick the cam lobes.
OK! make sence ... Thanks
Hi Pete! by the sound of it sounds like to me you want to use hydraulic cam when ever
They do make it easy to adjust valves and keep them almost maintenance free
@@PetesGarage Thanks for the reply Pete TC
Nice ..I soak the chain overnight too.
I know lots of people do that, but soaking overnight is kind of an old wives tale. Not a single engine manufacturer soaks any parts in oil. They are installed straight to the engine, right form the supplier.
I completely disagree with how you put the chain on. It would be and is much easier to leave the cam gear off and put the chain on both gears and then bolt it up. You risk damaging the cam bearings doing it your way. I have been building engines since 1965 and I would never do it your way.
Thanks for sharing your technique
Agreed, the risk to the bearings is significant. I have never seen or heard of it being done your way.
I have only rebuilt a few engines, but I have done many timing chains (usually in the vehicle).
After a little contemplating, ive surmised that cam was too small!
The one I put in this was was just right
Nice!!
Thanks
No loctite of any type on the 3 cam bolts?
I use a dab of blue
Always degree the cam , seen a few motor builds that they didn't degree the cams and they were way off. And they were built by supposedly reputable builders
I hear that a lot
Im alittle Surprised you didnt degree the camshaft....all those nice positions on the crank gear are there to get your intake center line where the manufacturer wants it...ive had factory cranks off by several degrees....if you dont ck...you dont really know...🤔
I do have 3 videos on that
doesn't it have a oil slinger
Yes it does
Probably an amateur question, but have you ever seen a gap between the back of the cam and the rear of the block? I've been told it's normal and the cam can't move due to the cut of the cam/flat tappet lifters and the cam gear holding it, but I'd like to be 100% certain. Video link below for explanation.
ruclips.net/video/V_YH0TN0uLI/видео.html
Don't worry about that back movement. The cam gear will hold it in place. The cam on this engine will thrust forward towards the cover so it's not a huge deal.
@@PetesGarage you said it thrusts towars the block not the cover. So which one is it
What about Gear Drive??
They tend to be a little noisy
How well do they perform in a motor like this?
They perform very well, they will just whine a tad which some people don't like.
Hi Pete, any chance you could do a video of 'actually' advancing/retarding a cam.?? Then recheck valve to piston clearances etc... As commented, there isn't a good video of anyone moving the cam independant to the crank, it's always dot-to-dot. Cheers from Australia.
That is a great idea. I will do that...thanks my friend
Pete im really struggling with intake centerline for the mopar trickflow cam. I have found TDC multiple times to confirm accuracy with a piston stop.
They tell me centerline should be 104 degrees. Im getting 30 degrees and also 110 at .050 on my gauge. So im assuming this means 110+30/2= 70
When i called trickflow they seemed to have a hard time giving me the centerline number. They had to get with engineers and i got the run around i feel.
Your one of my last resources, and figure you might know being you did the trickflow 240 heads.
I figured out my issue. My crank sprocket ⚙️ was installed at 0 with the woodrruf key. This gave me 70 as centerline vs 103 which is what i got after changing positions to 4 advanced on the crank.
It's always something simple, glad you figured it out
@@PetesGarage Thanks for the reply, I always appreciate it.
It is always something simple. It was really driving me nuts, because i have degreed a cam a few times.
What was your 440 static compression you built? Mine is targeted at 10.42:1 and 8.53:1 dynamic with the trickflow cam.
I didn’t know my compression ratio prior to measuring everything because it was an unknown build.
I will keep watching but I think I noticed the cam card said to degree at 4 degrees forward at 106. I also thought you should put a torrington bearing behind the cam sprocket but I'm not sure. Just asking.
The cam card is saying what the specs are at 106 degrees installed. You can advance the timing if you wish, and check valve clearance, but I wanted to slightly tame it down for a better idle so it's installed straight up. No Torrington bearing is needed.
Are these motors better than 454 bbc
Depends on your criteria, it's a matter of preference
Is there a way to contact you if you had a question
Petesgarageinfo@gmail.com
+1
Again no mention of brand of roller chain assembly
I don't promote any product
❤️🔧🚗🏁
👊
first!!!
WOO HOO
Pending car set up / rear gear / stall speed or stick/ your cam is way to small for motor / drag or hot street
It performs well
🙏
👍👍
The last 440 build was for customer of (Back Woods Racin) put the hemi challenger car on trl first round in heads up grudge match gangster 1/8 mile here in GA / don't under estimate the 440 in a road runner!!!!!!!
Never underestimate the competition