Your helping me work on my 440 for my 69 charger. After work in my cold shop listening to Jethro Tull. Gotta lot time and $ invested and a long ways to go. These vids keep me goin.
I was looking around youtube to see how to install fuel pump. I know its easy but none of the other videos ever mention the push rod that goes between pump and camshaft. Your video was in great detail and now I will be able to get this done the right way the first time. I always like watching detail video, so definitely subscribing to your channel. Thanks again
Thanks Steve. Working clean is the only way I know how. When you open the hood the engine need that wow factor. People need to look in and say "so clean"
Not claiming this is correct but my shop foreman used to tell me to never use RTV or any other sealer when installing a gasket. He says this amounts to double sealing and leaves a thicker sandwich for the middle portion to blow out or corrode. He said the gasket has to be tight against the sealing surfaces. I've always done it this way again not saying its right. Thanks for the vid, thumbs up!
That is interesting. The short answer is yes, you really don't need sealer, but it's cheap insurance and that is why I say use it lightly. It will make up for minor surface imperfections and parts that are not perfectly parallel
5:08 Pete thank you for this series of videos! I am putting together a 440 and need all the guidance I can get. These videos have given me the confidence to take this project on. FYI, I don’t think 45ft/lbs & 25ft/lbs is the correct torque for the timing cover bolts… I just tried it and absolutely destroyed the gasket, dented the all steel cover, tweaked the timing pointer and the washers all look like I shot them through the center with a .45! I have new parts on order and nothing stripped but I followed this to the letter and was scratching my head. Might be worth an update if that possible.
Yes I figured it was inches after the fact. The 68 Dodge book says 15ft, which snugged them up fine on the replacement parts. But again, I just appreciate the video series. Thank you again for this step by step walkthrough.
Coming along nicely. If using HV oil pump and/or different bolts, check for correct bolt length. The longer bolt kit for the HV pumps will bottom in the block before clamping the pump.
Hi Pete Upgrade on bigger oil pan usually involves machining oil pick up to 1/2” npt thread and no installation of oil windage tray ? Also some certain pans only work on certain K frames however B body like a Bee has few issues. Good stuff. Thanks 👍
Hey Pete, first I would like to say thank you for the videos man. They are super intuitive and descriptive giving young guys like me the knowledge and confidence to do the same and not mess up. But I was curious why you don't put the dampener on before you tighten the timing cover. Wouldn't that guarantee a better seal and that your center? Again, thank you good sir.
@@PetesGarage thanks. I actually did the job last night and the rod looked good, the grease helped it stay in place. Thanks for your video, it really helped a lot.
Hi Pete Appreciate your videos Thanks building a street 440 first time using a hydralic roller cam and lifters. I have a concern on my install reelated to cam lobe lifter barrel interferance. On one I have only .005 clearance when I spin it over enough?
Fuel pump pushrod length. How did you go about choosing the length you needed it? I’m not getting fuel to my carb wondering if that could be my problem. Tia
Hey Pete excellent work man I'm a huge Mopar guy and your videos are some of the best informative ones I've seen you do kick ass work and your knowledge is incredible would love it if you could do a slant 6 disassemble one time I am restoring a 66 Dart GT Convertible all original from my first restoration and would love some help and advice thanks
Hello Pete :-) Very good videos. I`m replacing the fuel pump in my 440...however, the engine is still in the car, so it`s very tricky to fit the pump and it`s lever at the push rod, and there`s some really tight space to fit the inner bolt near the engine block...my question is...would it be easier / possible to install the pump first with the push rod taken out and then install the new push rod afterwards? Thank you in advance. Robert
Hi Pete! about your upgrade like the fuel pump how far can the engine block still be able to manage the new upgraded parts, or is it the new part that does it. Thanks again for the time and explaining you do. TC
👍👍.have an original HP 69 1/2 block cleaned machined ready to go into 69 runner.been awhile since ive done any big blocks.thanks for the refresher course Pete.any vids on gm 400 or Pontiac 421/455 in the future?
Pete, thanks for all of your work. In a previous video you stated that a cam button wasn't needed because on the mopar the cam walks toward the engine firewall. why....... the cam button? Always seemed like a Chevy thing to me.............
So, I'm wondering why you are using a cam button on a 440 Mopar engine? The cam always has rearward pressure on it from driving the oil pump andthe distributor, and the back of the timing chain sprocket thrust face is always in contact with the block. If the cam were ever to move forward, the pushrod for the fuel pump would wipe-out the first lobe on the cam. I'm having a discussionon a Mopar forum about this exact subject, and I'd like to know if I'm missingsomething? Thanks Pete! You gotta clean shop Man!
That is a great question. When you let off the gas there is a chance of the cam moving forward, that is why there is a button and the clearance is .009" or less. It does not happen often, But I have seen timing covers pushed out at the cam.
Pete, your series is awesome, I am building a 512 now. I ran into an issue with the cam button. I have .103 between the button and timing cover. Should I shim the button, or shim the cam gear? The timing chain looks straight.
The windage tray is not really necessary. It is there to reduce foam which will not be a problem with the oil I use. I'm not saying to skip it in yours, I just prefer not to use it.
I had my 440 rebuilt and for some reason after installed and wont crank right with new battery and starter when turning the crank shaft by hand with a breaker bar, plus it is really really hard to turn the motor over to TDC even with the plugs out? , the engine has never ran it wont start we been trying to start it for 3 days now. I'm thinking the company that rebuilt the motor did something wrong but that's rare. it has a winding sound even with the torque converter un bolted from the crankshaft if the fuel pump rod and oil pump aren't jiving right could that make it crank slow ? What is your thoughts on this? This is odd.
hey i dont know if you are gonna reply to this or not but it would be a huge help...there are no videos of someone taking the pushrod out...is it just as simple as removing the plug and grabbing the rod??
Hey Pete do you have a video of how you started in the industry? All your knowledge and tools/shop makes me interested in your background in cars lol 👍🏻 just curious. thanks again Pete
Hi Pete. Was wondering about the chain cover and the way you put it on there without using the crank sleeve first to align it. Is it not necessary on the Mopar? btw, would like to see you assemble an FE motor.
yes, I am finishing up a 390 and had to put the timing cover with the sleeve, otherwise it would not be centered. FEs give you room to adjust and play and that's why I was curious about your tactics.
Hey pete good stuff. Which part is the carter fuel pump? M4862 with 6 to 9.5psi. Or m6903.? My thermoquad floods at 8 psi. Im havin trouble with the pumps on my 440. One every oil change 4,000 miles or less!. Even a holley #440-11 lasted only 2,000 miles. Holley dealer said its the ethanol in fuel destroying/cracking the rubber inside pumps. What do you think is solution? Electric pumps that can handle alcohol? Or have you not heard of this problem. Ive driven 25,000 miles and 6 mechanical fuel pumps! I got 450hp and love to take long trips. Get 15.5 mpgallon on freeway with my 850 thermoquad which only has 8 hp less than 800cfm thunder series! Swapped them and tested both on dyno. Kept thermoquad for great mileage tunability. But had to drill out primary butterflies ..160"? to keep a steady idle. Old school!!! Hahaha
Nice work Pete! Looking real sharp! I would have thought that you put on the harmonic balancer/ damper before you torque down the timing cover bolts. either way can't wait til it's done!
Just stumble across this video. I like your attention to detail in your engine assembly. I was just wondering about the cam button. I've been building these big blocks for about 50 years now and I've never used or seen a reason for a cam button. Also, no windage tray?
Pete I am surprised you have not used a windage tray in that torque monster as well why no Hemi black spring in the oil pump both are cheap tricks that pay off for a cheap investment
Great comment! I only use windage trays in certain applications, and this was not one that called for it. They sometimes can do more harm than good. I like the spring change idea.
A windage tray can hold up and delay oil from getting to the bottom end. If you race circle track and use a dry sump, the bottom end can get starved for oil. Some people think the windage tray is needed for a stroker to reduce bubbles, but I've never had an issue.
Well, experience tells me unless it sees high RPM's for suspended times a windage tray does very little. I understand your point, it would not hurt to put one in.
@@PetesGarage We did alot of experimenting on the dyno with camera's on the pan above the the oil level. It makes a big difference on oil control for cornering, accelerating/decelerating, & high rpm. Even 1 higher rev will whisk up oil onto the counter weights flinging it into the pistons which effects the balance as well. Specially if your trapped in the 80's still running that motor honey thick 20w50. And the fact that Summit & Jegs both make a very premium rubber pan gasket that has the windage built in with steel crush rings too so you can't over tighten it's become a no Brainerd. Screw stacking the 60's metal shim & double cork gaskets. Was curious IF you had a logic on it I hadn't heard. Thanks
Hey Pete, I really enjoy your videos and have been taking notes as like I said I'm going to build a 440 for a Superbird semblance. THE tricky part, I want to make a street legal Richard Petty race replica to run at SSCC and Bonneville with the lifelong dream or topping 200MPH. What "recipe" do you recommend . I know there area a lot of variables. Cam, pistons, stroked, heads, supercharged, I can go on and on. I think I will use Gear Vendors overdrive system to help with the gearing. Right now I'm gather the information for what is required per the rule books. Any thoughts? sources? builders to recommend Some people say on the old mopar blocks to have a girdle put in. So you can see my being overwhelmed. HELP I would love to get Mark Worman from Graveyard carz to do the rolling chassis in Petty Blue with the required roll cage and I could drop the engine in. (I've only have this dream since the mid 70's! now at 55 it on my bucket list. Thoughts/
That is an awesome project! This engine will be well over 500 HP if you want to follow this recipe. I'll have all the part numbers available at the end. I know a few builders, I'm sure we can help you.
Thanks Pete, looking forward to all your videos. I appreciate how you explain the reason you do the work the way you do it. It helps to answer lots of questions.
No windage tray? You do know the 2 seal bolts are shorter than the rest of the pan. If you don't use a windage tray. And if you put a regular oil pan bolt into the seal, it bottoms out and cracks the housing!!!
Great series Pete, have been binge watching till the small hours of the morning. Do you work on one project at a time? Or have several going at once. How on earth do you find the time to then edit these along with everything else you do? Really appreciate the effort you go to. Thanks from another Australian follower.
Problem is ,You machined the "unnecessary" Cam button too much and now it is loose and will spin in an elliptical motion and get looser, also if it contacts the cover it will bore a hole in cover due to the elliptical motion, sorry, but you messed up.
Your helping me work on my 440 for my 69 charger. After work in my cold shop listening to Jethro Tull.
Gotta lot time and $ invested and a long ways to go. These vids keep me goin.
That's awesome! Great car Chris!
I was looking around youtube to see how to install fuel pump. I know its easy but none of the other videos ever mention the push rod that goes between pump and camshaft. Your video was in great detail and now I will be able to get this done the right way the first time. I always like watching detail video, so definitely subscribing to your channel. Thanks again
Thank you Roger
Pete that is beautiful. You gotta love the cleanliness factor on your work. More great knowledge that you are willing to share. Thanks and take care.
Thanks Steve. Working clean is the only way I know how. When you open the hood the engine need that wow factor. People need to look in and say "so clean"
Not claiming this is correct but my shop foreman used to tell me to never use RTV or any other sealer when installing a gasket. He says this amounts to double sealing and leaves a thicker sandwich for the middle portion to blow out or corrode. He said the gasket has to be tight against the sealing surfaces. I've always done it this way again not saying its right. Thanks for the vid, thumbs up!
That is interesting. The short answer is yes, you really don't need sealer, but it's cheap insurance and that is why I say use it lightly. It will make up for minor surface imperfections and parts that are not perfectly parallel
Pls keep up the great work, I really enjoy your videos!
You earned a brand new sub from Spain today, looking forward for the next update on this project. Cheers!
Greeting and thank you my friend
5:08 Pete thank you for this series of videos! I am putting together a 440 and need all the guidance I can get. These videos have given me the confidence to take this project on.
FYI, I don’t think 45ft/lbs & 25ft/lbs is the correct torque for the timing cover bolts… I just tried it and absolutely destroyed the gasket, dented the all steel cover, tweaked the timing pointer and the washers all look like I shot them through the center with a .45! I have new parts on order and nothing stripped but I followed this to the letter and was scratching my head. Might be worth an update if that possible.
That would happen more with a cork gasket. It's actually inch pounds. I'll have to fix that somehow
Yes I figured it was inches after the fact. The 68 Dodge book says 15ft, which snugged them up fine on the replacement parts. But again, I just appreciate the video series. Thank you again for this step by step walkthrough.
Thanks Pete! I'm learning something with every video. Keep up the good work.
Awesome Chris, thank you
Awesome and informative video! Thanks for posting this!
Thanks my friend
great video like how you take a monent to explane how to do the install ...and how things work ....
The how is just as important as the why.
Really enjoying this build. Cant wait for the finished product. 🤙🏻🤙🏻
Me too...should be done soon
Coming along nicely. If using HV oil pump and/or different bolts, check for correct bolt length. The longer bolt kit for the HV pumps will bottom in the block before clamping the pump.
Thanks Jim. I'm using an Elgin HV pump and will check for that.
Hi Pete
Upgrade on bigger oil pan usually involves machining oil pick up to 1/2” npt thread and no installation of oil windage tray ? Also some certain pans only work on certain K frames however B body like a Bee has few issues. Good stuff. Thanks 👍
Thanks for the tips!
Thank you Sir for the video, keep up the good work.
Thanks Jonathan
Your Video is very nice, I am a bit more picky, I build mainly early Hemis and other Mopar engines. You get a 9 out of 10 ,well done
Thank you for watching
Interesting. Different compared to what I am used to (SBF) building. Very thorough build.
They all have their little intricacies...
Hey Pete, first I would like to say thank you for the videos man. They are super intuitive and descriptive giving young guys like me the knowledge and confidence to do the same and not mess up. But I was curious why you don't put the dampener on before you tighten the timing cover. Wouldn't that guarantee a better seal and that your center? Again, thank you good sir.
Thank you Ryan. The dowels on the front cover were tight. Even if the balance were put on first the holes would pull to the dowel. Great point!
Oh awesome! I didn't notice the dowels. Thanks Pete!
I need to replace the fuel pump with the engine in the car. Do i need to worry about the push rod? If so, what care and precautions do i need to take?
I would at least take it out and inspect it
@@PetesGarage thanks. I actually did the job last night and the rod looked good, the grease helped it stay in place. Thanks for your video, it really helped a lot.
It'll be interesting to see the inside of the oil pump.
I'm working on that right now.
Hi Pete Appreciate your videos Thanks building a street 440 first time using a hydralic roller cam and lifters. I have a concern on my install reelated to cam lobe lifter barrel interferance. On one I have only .005 clearance when I spin it over enough?
You mean the roller? It should ride right on the cam.
@@PetesGarage No the lifter barrel the roller rides in
As long as it rolls freely it's ok
Fuel pump pushrod length. How did you go about choosing the length you needed it? I’m not getting fuel to my carb wondering if that could be my problem. Tia
It's a standard length
Good info as always. Thanks pete.
Thanks Robert
Hey Pete ,Why no Windage Tray? Is one not needed for this build with a deep pan?
I have found it is not needed, but if you're building a race car I would put one in
What lube did you use for the fuel pump?
PTFE assembly lube
Pete, do you have any videos about harmonic balancers? If anyone can accurately explain the physics and requirements behind them, it would be you!
That's a great idea, I'll do that.
Hey Pete excellent work man I'm a huge Mopar guy and your videos are some of the best informative ones I've seen you do kick ass work and your knowledge is incredible would love it if you could do a slant 6 disassemble one time I am restoring a 66 Dart GT Convertible all original from my first restoration and would love some help and advice thanks
I've been looking for a 6 to do. I've had some inquiries and will do one as soon as it comes up. Thanks my friend.
Hello Pete :-) Very good videos. I`m replacing the fuel pump in my 440...however, the engine is still in the car, so it`s very tricky to fit the pump and it`s lever at the push rod, and there`s some really tight space to fit the inner bolt near the engine block...my question is...would it be easier / possible to install the pump first with the push rod taken out and then install the new push rod afterwards? Thank you in advance. Robert
Sure, if you mean leave the one in there
Hi Pete! about your upgrade like the fuel pump how far can the engine block still be able to manage the new upgraded parts, or is it the new part that does it. Thanks again for the time and explaining you do. TC
The block can handle almost all external upgrades
What oil pan u buy I need one slim on front for a 440 big block
This is a 7 quart pan from 440 source number 121-1030
👍👍.have an original HP 69 1/2 block cleaned machined ready to go into 69 runner.been awhile since ive done any big blocks.thanks for the refresher course Pete.any vids on gm 400 or Pontiac 421/455 in the future?
Thanks Jesse, not yet
No windage tray on the stroker motor?
I don't use them that often
@@PetesGarage 10-4 Pete...Thanx for the follow up
Pete, thanks for all of your work. In a previous video you stated that a cam button wasn't needed because on the mopar the cam walks toward the engine firewall. why....... the cam button? Always seemed like a Chevy thing to me.............
An engine can go backwards when starting. The button keeps it from blowing through the cam cover
Looking good!
Thanks Milo
So, I'm wondering why you are using a cam button on a 440 Mopar engine? The cam always has rearward pressure on it from driving the oil pump andthe distributor, and the back of the timing chain sprocket thrust face is always in contact with the block. If the cam were ever to move forward, the pushrod for the fuel pump would wipe-out the first lobe on the cam. I'm having a discussionon a Mopar forum about this exact subject, and I'd like to know if I'm missingsomething? Thanks Pete! You gotta clean shop Man!
That is a great question. When you let off the gas there is a chance of the cam moving forward, that is why there is a button and the clearance is .009" or less. It does not happen often, But I have seen timing covers pushed out at the cam.
Thank Pete
Looks great Pete. Could you just use rtv sealant on all the gaskets?
Thanks my friend. You could, but it's absolutely not necessary. I try to use it sparingly.
Pete, your series is awesome, I am building a 512 now. I ran into an issue with the cam button. I have .103 between the button and timing cover. Should I shim the button, or shim the cam gear? The timing chain looks straight.
Thanks Dane, yes, shim behind it
@@PetesGarage Thanks Pete, what is the ideal distance from the pan?
Usually .003" to .005"
@@PetesGarage thanks a bunch. your video series was awesome.
How is the fuel pump going to work? I noticed no cam lobe on the roller cam on the last video!
It is driven off the intermediate shaft from the cam gear
Que maravilla!!vente a España y me dejas el mio igual!!
Envía un boleto de avión y lo haré
@@PetesGarage eres el numero uno.como me gustaria tenerte cerca!!bravo por tu labor!!
Muchas gracias mi amigo
hey Pete I am surprised that you did not use a windage tray , why not?
They're really not necessary, I've never had a problem
Any particular reason you didn't install a windage tray? I too am building a 440 so this has been perfect timing for you to run this series
The windage tray is not really necessary. It is there to reduce foam which will not be a problem with the oil I use. I'm not saying to skip it in yours, I just prefer not to use it.
Nice!!
I had my 440 rebuilt and for some reason after installed and wont crank right with new battery and starter when turning the crank shaft by hand with a breaker bar, plus it is really really hard to turn the motor over to TDC even with the plugs out? , the engine has never ran it wont start we been trying to start it for 3 days now. I'm thinking the company that rebuilt the motor did something wrong but that's rare. it has a winding sound even with the torque converter un bolted from the crankshaft if the fuel pump rod and oil pump aren't jiving right could that make it crank slow ?
What is your thoughts on this? This is odd.
The bolts you used to bolt on the torque converter are too long and possibly bent the flex plate. That's where I would start looking.
hey i dont know if you are gonna reply to this or not but it would be a huge help...there are no videos of someone taking the pushrod out...is it just as simple as removing the plug and grabbing the rod??
Yes, it's that simple
Pete's Garage i really appreciate the reply!
No windage tray?
I find it not necessary on daily drivers, but they are a good idea
Hey pete no issues with cam button hitting flimsy stock style timing cover?
Nope, the cam is driven towards the rear
Heck yeah 👍🏻
Woo Hoo
NO WINDAGE TRAY OR CHECKNG PUMP/PAN CLEARANCE?
I usually do not use windage trays. I also check pickup clearance
thank man
Probably won’t get answers but where did you get your toque specs for the timing cover
I don't recall, probably the Mopar dude website
And it’s 45 ft lbs and 25 ft lbs I don’t question you you’re a master compared to me it just seams like a lot
@@lolathedog7 It's ok, it's a great question. Thanks for asking it
Hey Pete do you have a video of how you started in the industry? All your knowledge and tools/shop makes me interested in your background in cars lol 👍🏻 just curious. thanks again Pete
That's a great idea. After I finish this series I'll make one
Pete's Garage awesome!! 👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Pete. Was wondering about the chain cover and the way you put it on there without using the crank sleeve first to align it. Is it not necessary on the Mopar? btw, would like to see you assemble an FE motor.
The chain cover had really tight dowel holes that lined up perfectly. Normally I'd put the balancer on the center the cover. Do you have an FE?
yes, I am finishing up a 390 and had to put the timing cover with the sleeve, otherwise it would not be centered. FEs give you room to adjust and play and that's why I was curious about your tactics.
Hey pete good stuff. Which part is the carter fuel pump? M4862 with 6 to 9.5psi. Or m6903.?
My thermoquad floods at 8 psi. Im havin trouble with the pumps on my 440. One every oil change 4,000 miles or less!. Even a holley #440-11 lasted only 2,000 miles. Holley dealer said its the ethanol in fuel destroying/cracking the rubber inside pumps. What do you think is solution? Electric pumps that can handle alcohol? Or have you not heard of this problem. Ive driven 25,000 miles and 6 mechanical fuel pumps! I got 450hp and love to take long trips. Get 15.5 mpgallon on freeway with my 850 thermoquad which only has 8 hp less than 800cfm thunder series! Swapped them and tested both on dyno. Kept thermoquad for great mileage tunability. But had to drill out primary butterflies ..160"? to keep a steady idle. Old school!!! Hahaha
The E85 is murder on fuel pumps and carb parts. You can get a good pump from 440source.com.
Nice work Pete! Looking real sharp! I would have thought that you put on the harmonic balancer/ damper before you torque down the timing cover bolts. either way can't wait til it's done!
Thanks my friend. That is usually the procedure, but this cover fit so tight on the dowels there would be absolutely no movement if I did.
Ohh okay! I didn't see the dowels on there, nicely done!
Just stumble across this video. I like your attention to detail in your engine assembly. I was just wondering about the cam button. I've been building these big blocks for about 50 years now and I've never used or seen a reason for a cam button. Also, no windage tray?
The cam button just stops the cam from pushing forward. I leave the windage tray out with a 7 quart deep pan, it just doesn't seem to add value.
Oh Pete… you forgot to install a stroker windage tray before you bolted on the pan….
Understood
Pete I am surprised you have not used a windage tray in that torque monster as well why no Hemi black spring in the oil pump both are cheap tricks that pay off for a cheap investment
Great comment! I only use windage trays in certain applications, and this was not one that called for it. They sometimes can do more harm than good. I like the spring change idea.
@@PetesGarage I thought it was always a good idea to use a windage tray. Please update on your wisdom as I need all I can get. By the way great videos
A windage tray can hold up and delay oil from getting to the bottom end. If you race circle track and use a dry sump, the bottom end can get starved for oil. Some people think the windage tray is needed for a stroker to reduce bubbles, but I've never had an issue.
Deep pan but no windage tray? 🤔
What's the purpose or advantage by not running a windage tray??
Well, experience tells me unless it sees high RPM's for suspended times a windage tray does very little. I understand your point, it would not hurt to put one in.
@@PetesGarage We did alot of experimenting on the dyno with camera's on the pan above the the oil level. It makes a big difference on oil control for cornering, accelerating/decelerating, & high rpm. Even 1 higher rev will whisk up oil onto the counter weights flinging it into the pistons which effects the balance as well. Specially if your trapped in the 80's still running that motor honey thick 20w50.
And the fact that Summit & Jegs both make a very premium rubber pan gasket that has the windage built in with steel crush rings too so you can't over tighten it's become a no Brainerd. Screw stacking the 60's metal shim & double cork gaskets.
Was curious IF you had a logic on it I hadn't heard. Thanks
As I said, in a performance or racing engine I would put one in
@@PetesGarage I'm confused so your doing a roller cam, deep sump oil pan, & haven't even looked what else But it's not a performance build... OK 👍🏽👍🏽
Yeah, I know the cars these are going into, they won't be driven even remotely hard
As my 400lb Swede... Grandpa Ray Carlson would say... "Shtrong like Bull... Stink like shit!!"...Lmao!! Ol Sarge...
Absolutely
You gonna fly your drone for us sometime?
I don't have a drone...yet, I have R/C planes and helicopters
Hey Pete, I really enjoy your videos and have been taking notes as like I said I'm going to build a 440 for a Superbird semblance. THE tricky part, I want to make a street legal Richard Petty race replica to run at SSCC and Bonneville with the lifelong dream or topping 200MPH. What "recipe" do you recommend . I know there area a lot of variables. Cam, pistons, stroked, heads, supercharged, I can go on and on. I think I will use Gear Vendors overdrive system to help with the gearing. Right now I'm gather the information for what is required per the rule books. Any thoughts? sources? builders to recommend Some people say on the old mopar blocks to have a girdle put in. So you can see my being overwhelmed. HELP I would love to get Mark Worman from Graveyard carz to do the rolling chassis in Petty Blue with the required roll cage and I could drop the engine in. (I've only have this dream since the mid 70's! now at 55 it on my bucket list. Thoughts/
That is an awesome project! This engine will be well over 500 HP if you want to follow this recipe. I'll have all the part numbers available at the end. I know a few builders, I'm sure we can help you.
Thanks Pete, looking forward to all your videos. I appreciate how you explain the reason you do the work the way you do it. It helps to answer lots of questions.
No windage tray? You do know the 2 seal bolts are shorter than the rest of the pan. If you don't use a windage tray. And if you put a regular oil pan bolt into the seal, it bottoms out and cracks the housing!!!
Interesting, I've never had that happen. I use oil pan studs with a girdle
Did you skip showing the pickup tube installation?
Nope, it's in one of the videos
Great series Pete, have been binge watching till the small hours of the morning. Do you work on one project at a time? Or have several going at once. How on earth do you find the time to then edit these along with everything else you do? Really appreciate the effort you go to. Thanks from another Australian follower.
Thanks Rob. I have a few things going on all the time. I focus on the ones that need to get done. When you are busy you find a way.
should have installed a windage tray- 15 hp
Maybe
Loocking aesome :)
ARPs are good but very expensive :(
Yes, but it is worth the extra money for head and main bolts.
anybody have any thought thanks!
❤️🔧🚗🏁😇
👊
Problem is ,You machined the "unnecessary" Cam button too much and now it is loose and will spin in an elliptical motion and get looser, also if it contacts the cover it will bore a hole in cover due to the elliptical motion, sorry, but you messed up.
The button is held concentric in the hole. It is spring loaded so it will not put enough pressure on the front cover to damage it
Hey bud. You forgot the windage tray… just sayin
I understand your point, but I've built many without it and have not had a problem
9:24 did you lick your finger?
What else?