All these problems are born from government requirements and the need to reduce weights and increase fuel efficiency to meet government mandated emissions levels. All vehicle weights have increased as the manufacturers fill them with gadgets and gizmos at the cost of the fundamental engineering requirements to provide long lasting engines and reliability.
Perhaps he is demonstrating that the FTE is able to be operated in different temperature scenarios without problems as opposed to the newer engines. The oil cooler on the 300 is not big enough to handle extreme variations in temperature. You would need a temperature gauge to monitor the 300 temperature in extreme conditions. He mentioned that truck drivers have temperature gauges for very good reason. I’m happy to be corrected.
Probably in the middle as far as durability but the 70 series v8 is comparable to FTE in fuel economy. 200 series probably a bit more efficient due to turbo set up
Very interesting, I’ve come from a trusty ZD30 Navara to a 2024 2.8 Hilux in your opinion how good is the new Hilux engines? And where is your workshop as I’d be happy to have you work on my car with your wealth of knowledge.
You're trying not to get carried away. By all means get carried away if this went for an hour I would have watched it, I find what your saying incredibly interesting, you clearly know your subject matter. Thanks
2:50 I wonder if the internal design is different? Perhaps the smaller is more efficient. IDK, just a thought. Perhaps a scan guage showing oil temperature is useful. If this is not possible and if it was my engine I would (regardless of warranty issues) put an oil temperature probe and gauge in. Of course this would be done so no drilling swarf is left in the oil compartment-that’s unacceptable for obvious reasons. You can get an “Engine Guard” put in as it can alert you audibly at whatever coolant temperature you set. Again this is coolant, not oil temperature. Wish they had a model for oil temp as well as coolant temp. I got one on my 2007 1kD-FTV. The model I have also has an oil pressure audible alarm again with adjustable set point together with coolant settable alarm.
So what are you saying here? Is it that your heavily loaded 300 is going to run bearings when the small capacity of oil keeps getting hotter and hotter leading to bearing seizure? What is the mechanical impact of running say a 10W-40 oil in the 300 - can the tiny rings handle wiping the cylinder walls down or will they float over it leading to oil burning and carbon fouling of the compression ting? There's a lot if ill informed discussion from keyboard mechanics about using heavier oils in engines designed for 0w-xx. My engine specifies 0W-30 and warranty is voided if 5W-30 is used instead.
Do you watch the RUclips channel called " The motor oil geek" It's probably a question for him. I'm a lubrication Technician and I would run a 10w-40. But I'm no expert.
My mechanic has told me the oil galleries are narrow to suit the light weight oil. If you put 10W-40 in the 300, engine will be destroyed due to insufficient rate of oil flow, thus cannot maintain adequate oil pressure to prevent metal on metal contact, due to the narrow galleries which you cannot modify.
That’s brilliant education right there. I’ve heard of a few issues with the 300 series and increased engine wear running the standard 0W-20, when in any or all of the following conditions: -hi engine load for greater than 15 minutes, examples peak hour traffic, heavy hauling typically caravan, hot conditions etc etc. Just Auto did many pieces and one thing I picked up with the 300 series is there is programming to deload (feels like less power-which it is) the engine when the feedback from sensors detect possible engine harm. This mustn’t work too well as engines are wearing out prematurely as explained above. I understand this thin oil and piston design is all about emissions and meeting the legislation. Perhaps it’s time to give the consumer a break after forking out the big bickies and get this silly worldwide legislation redacted. It can only make the manufacturers even more unreliable the longer this crap goes on. Thoughts? Please share them below…
Hi peter, l own a 2006 100 series cruiser with the 1hdtfte engine, in your opinion is it best to run a 15/40 mineral oil in this engine? or is it ok to run a semi synthetic oil like Penrite hpr 15 15w/50 semi synthetic oil ? Love your content mate , Cheers
Ever since egr and dpf emissions etc became a big focus for manufactures diesel enginge simplicity and reliability seems to have gone downhill bad. If its no pre all the crap im not interested ill just buy petrol and forget about the headaches.
Translation, Toyota once again brings out a shit diesel engine. I mean these clowns haven't made a good diesel since the FTE its only so good coz they copied a Hino engine design after they bought Hino.
LOVE IT, keep showing videos of the mighty FTE and how much better they are
Love my 2006 FTE Cruiser and every time I watch this guy it reinforces my belief that I made the right decision keeping it for the long term.
Mate love your work. I have been a Diesel mechanic for just over 30 years and you tell it as it is and are spot on with your findings. Great stuff.
Thinking I'll be keeping my 100 series 1hdfte until the 300 has proven itself! Thanks for the information.
What a great explanation of the different motors I think I will be keeping the 200 for a long time
Bloody interesting stuff and well delivered
These detail videos are fantastic. Thanks for taking the time
Toyota's engineering brilliance strikes again! They've only gone backwards from the 1HDFTE!
lol!!!! i dare you do to do any better with the government and all their emissions crap and other agendas that car makers have to follow!
All these problems are born from government requirements and the need to reduce weights and increase fuel efficiency to meet government mandated emissions levels. All vehicle weights have increased as the manufacturers fill them with gadgets and gizmos at the cost of the fundamental engineering requirements to provide long lasting engines and reliability.
Interesting and informative.
Evident just how strong the 100 series motor in, its on the stand with a scissor jack underneath it to support is sheer weight.
Probably more to do with the length of the motor. It's a similar weight to the 1vd v8 motor
Great intel, as always. They don't build them like they use to. 👍😎
the goverment doesnt allow them to do that lol!!!
Thats a sump???? 😲 looks like a magnetic parts dish!
Excellent don't go beyond a 100 series.
Legend mate, love you videos 🙏
Ripper Video - well explained!
Very insightful, but what conclusions and recommendations are you proposing?
Perhaps he is demonstrating that the FTE is able to be operated in different temperature scenarios without problems as opposed to the newer engines. The oil cooler on the 300 is not big enough to handle extreme variations in temperature. You would need a temperature gauge to monitor the 300 temperature in extreme conditions. He mentioned that truck drivers have temperature gauges for very good reason. I’m happy to be corrected.
Great video as usual. would the 200/70 engine be the best of both worlds then? Mid way?
Probably in the middle as far as durability but the 70 series v8 is comparable to FTE in fuel economy. 200 series probably a bit more efficient due to turbo set up
Very interesting, I’ve come from a trusty ZD30 Navara to a 2024 2.8 Hilux in your opinion how good is the new Hilux engines? And where is your workshop as I’d be happy to have you work on my car with your wealth of knowledge.
I’ll stick with my 100 series 2UZFE thanks 👍🍻, good info mate 👍
I will keep my 200 for the foreseeable future is what this video tells me.
You're trying not to get carried away. By all means get carried away if this went for an hour I would have watched it, I find what your saying incredibly interesting, you clearly know your subject matter.
Thanks
2:50 I wonder if the internal design is different? Perhaps the smaller is more efficient.
IDK, just a thought.
Perhaps a scan guage showing oil temperature is useful.
If this is not possible and if it was my engine I would (regardless of warranty issues) put an oil temperature probe and gauge in.
Of course this would be done so no drilling swarf is left in the oil compartment-that’s unacceptable for obvious reasons.
You can get an “Engine Guard” put in as it can alert you audibly at whatever coolant temperature you set.
Again this is coolant, not oil temperature.
Wish they had a model for oil temp as well as coolant temp.
I got one on my 2007 1kD-FTV. The model I have also has an oil pressure audible alarm again with adjustable set point together with coolant settable alarm.
The best motor for longevity and power in your opinion?
So what are you saying here? Is it that your heavily loaded 300 is going to run bearings when the small capacity of oil keeps getting hotter and hotter leading to bearing seizure? What is the mechanical impact of running say a 10W-40 oil in the 300 - can the tiny rings handle wiping the cylinder walls down or will they float over it leading to oil burning and carbon fouling of the compression ting? There's a lot if ill informed discussion from keyboard mechanics about using heavier oils in engines designed for 0w-xx. My engine specifies 0W-30 and warranty is voided if 5W-30 is used instead.
Warranty not void for 5W-30, see page 552 in the Owners Manual.
Nobody has ever been refused a warranty claim for having clean oil in their engine. Oil is cheap compared to a new engine, change it at 5,000klm.
These guys must’ve done more than the 1,000,000kms of testing that Toyota did.
Do you watch the RUclips channel called " The motor oil geek" It's probably a question for him. I'm a lubrication Technician and I would run a 10w-40. But I'm no expert.
My mechanic has told me the oil galleries are narrow to suit the light weight oil. If you put 10W-40 in the 300, engine will be destroyed due to insufficient rate of oil flow, thus cannot maintain adequate oil pressure to prevent metal on metal contact, due to the narrow galleries which you cannot modify.
So are you recommending going with 5-30 instead of 0-20 in a 300 then?
That’s brilliant education right there.
I’ve heard of a few issues with the 300 series and increased engine wear running the standard 0W-20, when in any or all of the following conditions:
-hi engine load for greater than 15 minutes, examples peak hour traffic, heavy hauling typically caravan, hot conditions etc etc.
Just Auto did many pieces and one thing I picked up with the 300 series is there is programming to deload (feels like less power-which it is) the engine when the feedback from sensors detect possible engine harm.
This mustn’t work too well as engines are wearing out prematurely as explained above.
I understand this thin oil and piston design is all about emissions and meeting the legislation.
Perhaps it’s time to give the consumer a break after forking out the big bickies and get this silly worldwide legislation redacted.
It can only make the manufacturers even more unreliable the longer this crap goes on.
Thoughts?
Please share them below…
Yes the problem is the legislators not the engineers IMHO
What best viscosity preference for dpf 200 series please
What oil viscosity do you recommend in a 300 series for towing
Would you recommend a 5w/40 ?
Excellent info
Hi peter, l own a 2006 100 series cruiser with the 1hdtfte engine, in your opinion is it best to run a 15/40 mineral oil in this engine? or is it ok to run a semi synthetic oil like Penrite hpr 15 15w/50 semi synthetic oil ? Love your content mate , Cheers
Yeah I think I’ll just keep my FTE thanks. Not the best fuel economy I know but I can accept a few litres per hundred in exchange for reliability.
So if the HDFTE is the best, does the VDFTV come in second? I didn't hear much about if the 200 is really good.
So is there any good things about the 300 engine?
so running 0-20 is going to see more engine failures once these are loaded up and working hard
Be interesting to compare a bmw m57.
M57 has nothing on a FTE
Ever since egr and dpf emissions etc became a big focus for manufactures diesel enginge simplicity and reliability seems to have gone downhill bad. If its no pre all the crap im not interested ill just buy petrol and forget about the headaches.
Going Patrol
Translation, Toyota once again brings out a shit diesel engine. I mean these clowns haven't made a good diesel since the FTE its only so good coz they copied a Hino engine design after they bought Hino.
Toyota has been the parent company of Hino for over 20 years, and their partnership goes back to the 1960's when Hino was in financial trouble.
DECREASESED THICKMESS OF COMPRESSION & OIL CONTROL RONGS IS UNFORGIVEABLE!! 🤬
I want my 2 - 3 mm rings!!
100 series, great car, 200 series, good car, 300 series shitbox
Plenty of egg spurts with shallow pockets on RUclips
300 will never be any good for durability highly strung motor to much shit to go wrong and Toyota won't save you