It’s absolutely absurd you should even need to question the oil weight from the factory when spending 150k on a vehicle that is marketed as an indestructible Aussie tourer. Thanks for the video .
Every manufacturer is squeezing every engine component to extract maximum efficiency and minimum emissions, they don't care about longevity, just getting you thru the warranty period basically!
We've seen this on the Ford/JLR/PSA 2.7 TDV6 "Lion" engine. PSA Peugeot Citroën specified a range of viscosity grades from 5W-30 synthetic all the way up to 15W-40 semi-synthetic depending on climatic conditions, whereas Jaguar Land Rover specified 5W-30 for all climates, and not even a requirement to run semi-synthetic or synthetic. Even Ford specify 5W-40 in the F-150 for the later 3.0 TDV6 when using bio-diesel or under severe conditions! Needless to say, the most heavily affected application for main/big end bearing failures and even crankshaft failures are Land Rover products, not helped by the extra weight of the vehicle. I'm not saying the other brands don't suffer this issue, because there are inherent issues with the engine, but nowhere near to the same extent.
Thank you for the video. After your recent video with Morpowa I got straight onto my local dealer to get the oil changed, but they refused to use anything other than 0W-20 in the engine. Despite the fact that I tow a van and showing them the relevant section in the manual, they insisted I don't need to use heavier oil. I rang another local dealer and got the same response. Thanks to your team for putting me onto the right mechanic in our area, oil changed today and straight away noticed the difference. Engine noise is reduced, and oil pressure on the gauge looking much healthier. Really keen for larger capacity sump and a trans cooler bracket that works with the intercooler would be great too. Thanks again.
Unfortunately dealers often get caught between a rock and a hard place. They are bound by the mamufacturers rules and policies. If they advise otherwise they are liable ans risk loosing their franchise.
Hello Slippery. Dealers are correct to use the oil specified by the Manufacturer because of other hidden things you are not told about like ST (Synthetic Technology) oil filters. These are a bloody curse because ST filters have fine 20 micron gauze where EVERY other oil filter has 28-32 micron gauze. You can see that 5W-30 (DPF spec oil) is not going to flow as well as 0W-20 especially before fully heated up. I'm with you, towing you'd want 10W-40 (DPF Low ash type) or Shell Rimula R4-L (low ash) 15W-40 but MAKE sure got a 30 micron filter
@@shanequinn8356 the filter won’t be a restriction as it has a huge surface area and also a bypass valve. Also, the owners manual for the 300 says 0W-20 or 0W-30 or 5W-30 so you can use any of those with absolutely no concerns.
That's exactly the section of the manual I showed the dealer along with the note on the next page "An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme loads conditions."
Don't use dealership servicing if you can help it. They're not interested in what's best for you, they're keen on just doing the bare minimum the manufacturer had instructed them to do...
If you feel you must use the 0w 20 it is good to check Toyotas spec . A very very shear stable oil like Redline synthetic sounds essential. I agree with the advice to use a higher viscosity oil. Id pick it carefully though and check if it meets or exceed Toyota spec. Shear stability will also be very important. Thank you very much for your video
Very good information. I know that for the American market the reason why they run the light oils is to get better fuel economy which then gives the manufacturer credits with the govt agencies. Another very good tool is to conduct some oil sampling and from the analysis you can see exactly what is happening inside your engine.
@@whoisjohngalt-hg5us Yeah I agree that it's a Toyota issue and no you shouldn't have to analyse the oil but it is always interesting to see what is actually happening inside your engine. We use it on heavy plant and it can keep you ahead of catastrophic failures. When you are using a LV diesel for towing etc you could get a snap shot after say 5000km to see where your engine oil is at! Sometimes you might be surprised on how much more life it has. But if you use the wrong oil for the application it ain't going to end well! As said the information on what oils to use is in the owners manual, maybe the people at Toyota Australia should read it. Like most mechanical things it's not until it has been out in the field for a while that we start to see issues that the R&D didn't see coming or they just choose to ignore it! Sometimes the marketing dept overrides the engineers! It will be interesting to see how many s300 diesel engines start to fall over with time.
Interesting video with good content. The fact is engines use hydrodynamic fluid film bearing, the load is carried via the oil wedge. Increase one of the variables such as force it may result in reduction of the fluid film thicknesses. Engineers use specialist software applications to calculate fatigue and stress limits. An engine such as 1HDFTE has 7 main bearings to carry the load. A V6 engine usually has 4 main bearings. Unless the bearing journal diameters and width are increased significantly to have plenty of safety margin, failure rates would increase. There is a reason HD industrial diesel engines have such large displacements and are built the way they are!
The problem is that the 300 series V6 engine has smaller bearings than the inline sixes such as the 1HDFTE. The video below explains this. ruclips.net/video/EXgfJOmssO8/видео.html
amazing how people like you find out these issues and not the manufacturer. They will put new engines in every car in the country before they do anything.
Ofc! That's what they want! They want your vehicle to blow up and not go the distance, they stand to benefit by selling you parts and repairs etc these dealers and manufacturers don't care about your vehicle's longevity...
@@spannaspinna they don't. That's not what I was referring to. Ofc they don't want your engine failing within the warranty period. I meant "not going the distance" as in not lasting ten, fifteen, twenty years like engines would have in decades gone by...
Yeah, it is, but it’s also not driving a tune down ir throat, n at least is giving great knowledgeable free advice. For example 4wd/24/7 is now just an ad, with a bit of wheeling thrown in. This was at least to the point
Sensible advice. Too many dealer service departments are managed by people who may have the right credentials, but have little real world experience when it comes to the wide range of uses that their customers vehicles are put through.
Dealerships have their hands tied unfortunately by the requirement to strictly adhere to manufacturers instructions and approved fluids/parts when it comes to servicing
This is an extremely well structured video, everything clearly explained. What i get from it though......don't by the 300 until they've sorted this out. 2nd or 3rd gen at least.
Excellent presentation! Increasing oil viscosity rating: there is another theory that modern engines designed for 0W 20 and thin oils have tiny galleries that are not suitable for thicker viscosity grades such as the 5W 40 you mentioned. Would appreciate your comment on this, please. Thanks, Frank
I use to own Toyotas for 20 years. Then the past 10 years I’ve own Mercedes, Mitsubishi and Isuzu. I’d have to say weighing up my past 10 years experience,I would never go back to Toyota again. Toyota today relies too much on the name and the past and think they can charge accordingly.
I can understand Toyota’s need to meet strict requirements and so insist on using oil that’s like water but reducing the sump capacity at the same time seems like a dangerous move. A lot of people don’t understand how important the oil is in cooling an engine. I’m sure it’s part of Toyota’s weight saving program done on the Cruiser but at what cost to the long term reliability? Most will make it through the warranty period but it’s way too early to see how they go long term. Something else most people don’t know is that car manufacturers design their cars with an expected life span and the Toyota Land Cruiser has one of the longest at 25 years. I wonder if that has changed. There is also no place for lazy or cheapskate owners anymore as now, more than ever, oil changes are critical for long time reliability. I wouldn’t even consider a used Cruiser, or any modern car for that matter, without proof of regular oil changes. Companies like yours are doing owners a great job at allowing owners to mitigate the potential disaster of a destroyed engine.
Given the price the 300 series goes for I just find it hard to accept that a company with the engineering reputation Toyota has isn’t doing more to resolve this. Love the look of the 300 and Toyota but this makes the vehicle feel too precious for the rugged conditions they are targeted for. All said - love the video and what you are doing. Well done.
Good to see Toyota following Fords lead by fitting steel pistons and a hot vee setup. Pity they specify such an oil in a vehicle a lot of people use for towing, and in having such a tiny sump.
The crazy thing is alot of European manufacturers consider Australia a severe climate/use and specify the oil and service intervals to suit. I worked for a Mercedes dealer years ago and Mercedes Australia stipulated heavier oil and fixed distance intervals despite the use of thinner oil and variable intervals in other markets. VW/Audi was the same, effectively halving the intervals for Australian market cars. Even Citroen requires shorter intervals and thicker, synthetic, oil.
Not sure I agree with the comment of the lower viscosity oil not being able to pull heat from the motor. Really a low viscosity oil will have more capacity to pull heat due to its ability to flow more. I think the real issue is the smaller sump and the oil not having enough time to dissipate the heat load, combined with the higher loads that the oil is subjected to (compared to previous landcruiser engines). If seeing oil temps around that 130deg mark then your defiantly looking at the oil viscosity thinning significantly - oil grades are rated at 100degC so the more you push over that temp the more you should think about bumping up a viscosity grade. Bigger sump will defiantly help out and higher viscosity will help maintain a better oil film at the high temps. My previous vehicle had a 2.7 V6 diesel and that put some decent heat loads into the engine - bumped it up to a 5W40 to help out at the higher temps - didn't see any lower temps when loaded (compared to the lower viscosity "recommended" oil) but I knew the oil will be dealing with the conditions better. And low viscosity oils are generally not terrible - they are often POA synthetic base stock (they need to be as a group III "synthetic" wont do the job) with very good anti-wear additive packs. The additive pack needs to be robust in order to compensate for the lack of base oil viscosity. And a higher viscosity oil will have a similar impact to its service life when running at high temps. As a general rule of thumb the oxidation rate of oil doubles for every 10degC over 60degC But 100% low viscosity oils are for emissions, there's no other reason to use them otherwise
Yeah the 0-20 oil would have been some what ok if they bumped up the oil capacity by double.......the ford rangers 3.2 run a 0-30 but have 9.5 litres capacity
Crazy the amount of poor Aussies these later cruiser's have effected financially. It's a stretch for most Aussies to buy 1 then go through all that heart ache.
Well that engine only used 5W-30 as the only recommendation in Jaguar and Land Rover applications. For the 2.7 TDV6, Peugeot Citroën specify a range of viscosity grades ranging from 5W-30 up to 15W-40 depending on climate, and they insist on using either synthetic (5W-30 or 5W-40) or semi-synthetic (10W-40 or 15W-40) oils whereas neither Jaguar nor Land Rover even mention the base oil recommended. Even Ford specify 5W-40 in the F-150 for the later 3.0 TDV6 when using bio-diesel or under severe conditions!
Thanks for this video - looking at a LC300, so getting as much info as possible. Question : In the video you recommend 5W40 Oil, however in the Doc on your website it recommends 5W30. I know there isn't a huge difference, but I assume the video being newer is an updated recommendation?
Unfortunately Toyota won’t warrant a 5/40 oil. Catch 22 right. 5/40 is a better option but Toyota will blame the oil first since the handbook recommends a 0/20 C5 or 0/30 C2
Thank you for your video We have a "high performance vehicle from another Japanese brand that uses 0w 30 with 20k service intervals and have never had an issue. Surely the great Toyota should be doing or saying something about this as it is a common issue in Australia. They sell these cars marketed at towing so for sure it'll be under stress. I think they've come out with a dud of an engine and it's not fair for us consumers holding onto the Toyota banner of reliability. The other concern I have with them is their safety isn't up to scratch either. It's very disappointing to see. Regular service means more money. Great for you being a shop very not good for us consumers.
Yeah I have one. 34000km interval! I am getting it done more frequently and aiming for 10k changes. Also the transmission fluid has no change interval from land rover, but I believe ZF do have a recommended interval. Touch wood the defender has been trouble free and just hit 30000km. Let's see if it gets to 300,000km 😂
@@user-pp6kw6yl6z10,000km oil change intervals is a great idea. I would not run 0W-20 either - run a C3 5W-30 or 0W-30 Transmission fluid and filter every 80,000km as per ZF
@@chadlantry858 Toyota specs C2 0W-30 for the 200 series diesel. I would run a C3 0W-30 or 5W-30 (5W-30 is easier to find and cheaper) C3 has a higher HTHS viscosity compared to C2, so even if the grade (0W-30/5W-30) is the same, the C3 offers better protection than the C2.
Way too early in the life of 300s, especially with Toyota's engine problems overseas. I note other engine YTer like EngineCare1417 have already raised possible main bearing problems, and to watchcthis space. I like the vehicle, but not yet. In the meantime, I'll hang onto my last series 200. I hope the 300 turns out OK.
Interesting video. Are you able to share any empirical evidence i.e. oil analysis of the lighter Toyota oil vs the recommended heavier oil. Or possible increase in engine wear associated with heavy oil during cold startup? Thanks!
Emission's is complicating and killing early so many cars. It has to be asked how much energy in fuel is saved over killing cars early in there lifespan and having to make new ones.
This is 100% the case. Toyota was building the 2JGTE 30 years ago and they were so over-engineered that people could make over 800hp pretty reliably on the stock bottom end. Big oil galleries, great oil pump, Siamese bores, quality metals etc. Now with emissions rules, all cars are getting stupidly complex and reliability is going down the drain. New cars don't interest me anymore and I wish I just bought a GU patrol with a TD42 20 years ago and just kept it forever.
Have you guys looked at making and installing a dry sump system? Sounds like overkill I know, but it's tried and true technology that's been in use for ages.
I use Mobil 1 synthetic. Not as good as it originally was but still seems plenty good. Pennzoil synthetic is advertised as "Made from natural gas", is probably better. Original Mobil 1 made from acetylene gas. But now made from crude oil.
Yes, oil weight is different to oil quality. But point he is saying is a 0W20 is light oil for extreme conditions or high temperatures which is common for a small displacement engine in a big vehicle especially towing
There’s a recall on very similar engines in the U.S.of A. They’re blaming it on manufacturing swarf in the engine. Toyota used to have a reputation for quality- NOT any more.
You're being a drama queen. The US issue is the petrol engine as far as I'm aware, and it was from metal shavings. Mistakes happen, and it's a big company. They make better cars than anyone else. The LC aint going to fall apart because of low quality.......it's certainly better than anything from Europe or the US.
@@noneofyourbusiness5433The swarf excuse is baloney, some Tundra’s are on their 3rd engine. Toyota quietly changed the part number of the bearing journals earlier this year. The damage was caused by soft bearing journal’s.
I’m about to purchase a 250 prado with the 2.8l 48v mild hybrid engine. What oil would you recommend for towing a large caravan around auzzie ? Cheers Frank
LandCruiser 300 running a high performance diesel engine only 10% bigger than a Dmax engine so great care needs to be taken on the maintenance side. Unfortunately only a small percentage of failures will happen under warranty. Need to take early steps to prevent problems outside of warranty
I got me a Fowlcan, has a 8.8 litre sump including filter, says to run 5w20 but I run it on 15/40 0/40 5/30 5/40 10/30 but never 5/20. Always synthetic, never over 5,000 kilometre intervals, runs like new and it does tick or smoke. Draw yer own conclusions. Got me nuther veHickle which runs 0/20 fine …. Both veHickles have water heat exchangers around the filter … mmm. Probably doesn’t help that they take $100k truck and throw $50k or weight on it which weighs several hundred kilograms plus aero drag too but don’t install an oil cooler. The 0w20 isn’t the problem it’s the extra work you’re make the oil do and not changing it often enough, it’s getting too hot and falling apart. You’ll eventually have the same problem with 5/40 because you’re probably overworking the oil. Those big tyres and hi lifts make everything work harder, axles, wheels bearings, brakes, transmissions and engines and therefore the engine oil.
I'm not a mechanical or chemical engineer, but a quick search shows that a SAE 0W20 is not suitable for Australian climate! I use 5W40 (Castrol Edge) for my FJ Cruiser, but dealerships use 5W30 (some use 10W40). Does 5W30 work well in around 40 degrees Celsius with aircon on, fully loaded, while offroading?
…dealers having enough common sense to check with the customer how they use the vehicle…..there’s your problem ! The recommended oil for my 1GD Prado is 0W-30. I’m going to check my handbook to see if they advise a heavier weight oil for a vehicle with heavy use. And I can’t believe the 300 oil capacity is less than a 1GD
Interesting, heeps of gr yaris's are grenading around the world too, seen some mechanics talking about the same problem, running 0w20 being the main contributing factor.
While it may not affect the F33 diesel engine I note the petrol RAV4 hybrid calls up Toyota's 0W16 oil and the Car Care Nut (Toyota guru) recommends owners stick strictly with that because components like the variable valve timing and variable oil pump rely on it. Although it seems with 0W16 availability many/most Toyota dealers are opting for more available 0W20. The moral to the story is pay close attention to what and why with increasing sophistication of fluid technology to meet emission Regs deliberately strangling the ICE to get us to shift to EVs.
You done the pre dyno checks. Then ran it up on the dyno. Then it locked up. And pulled it down and found it was low on oil……. What did the dipstick say in the pre dyno checks?
Does the engine oil galleries designed for 0-20, going to 5-40, would that put alot of strain on the oil pump. I have a diesel 200 @ 174 thousand, I have had not one problem with it towing 3.5 ton van around Australia, I have seen a lot off 300 series broken down, all cars have teething problems.
All this talk about oil is a little confusing. I am keen to put 5w 30 or 5w 40 in the LC300 however i cant find any that are either C2 or C5? Can a C3 be used , whats the difference?
Having over sized bearings doesn't make it stronger, if the bearings and oil are correctly specced to work together and the rotating parts can always ride on an oil film, then there is no issue and never will be. Over sizing the bearings just increases drag and heat generation. Both bad things.
@@glennmoore5880 The more surface area a plain bearing has the better it can hold the oil there. The new engine has more Torq than a v8 cruiser. So your saying smaller plain bearings are better? Why don't trucks or heavy machinery use them then? How does more heat build up if the moving parts never touch? At cold start a larger bearing surface will hold more oil and have less wear.
@@jamestanner9198 it is clear that Toyota and modern diesel manufacturers are all playing this "efficiency" game. Smaller bearings gives less drag and stiction. So many things about modern cars is all about politics and stupid Climate Change lies to substantiate the financial gravy train than anything else. Take Nissan's ZD30 engine over the TD42 for example, smaller engine can achieve similar performance, but no savings on fuel used, same with the 6.5L Chev diesel and duramax, just more engine and power with the same amount of fuel needed at cruise. Changing a diesel engine and making the capacity smaller is just to reduce friction area and appease the unintelligent, not much else. There is no free lunch, you want to move X mass with Y joules of energy/litre, you can only achieve so much. EGR on a diesel is just emissions, not fuel savings unlike a petrol engine. 4 valves per cylinder? I don't see the point. The DPF? Holy cow, what a colossal POS that is. I find it very interesting when you see that 6 Super Tankers that travel the world pollute the same amount for all cars on the planet, we have around 4500 of these ships in the world. Engineering for performance and making a car for the consumer in mind is long gone, we now live in a world with UN initiatives that are putting huge pressure on automakers to make cars a certain way. Ask yourself, where is all of the world's money? The middle class, who is getting hit the hardest 😉 I still have my Patrol, CRD30 and my engine brand new never knew what an EGR was, nor a Cat or DPF. A proper crankcase breather system installed, correct oil viscosity, great Intercooler, proper coolant system and it sings along nicely, with the odd puff of smoke when on the high fuel setting, but I barely need to use it.
@@SimonWorlds Have still got a td42t with only 270 on clock no rust a 2001 model and I love it. Planes burn how much fuel. think about that and no anti pollution on them.
Wow, so that’s what’s going on with the 300 series. Some friends just had a catastrophic engine failure out on the Nullarbor towing a van with their 3 year old diesel Hilux with only 34K on the clock. Fortunately it’s under warranty and Toyota have been excellent getting it sorted out, (an engine is coming from Japan!!). Toyota gave them a car to get around. I don’t yet know what failed but apparently this was the eighth catastrophic engine failure in Australia and Toyota is looking at some sort of notice to dealers.
My personal choice for all my diesel’s is to run penrite and I’ve always changed the oil at 5k intervals. Can I ask what brand of oil you run in your services for the 300 as I wish to look after my new investment which is a gx 300
Worried now. My darling wife recently bought a Subaru and oil recommendation is 0-16. Alternative by the book is 0-20. Would I be out of line using something like 5-30 as they do in other countries?
It shouldn’t be an issue. First up it’s a petrol engine, probably naturally aspirated so it’s a relatively low stressed engine and won’t develop the heat issues associated with the 300 series. The services intervals are relatively short (12 months or 10000km) so adhere strictly to those requirements and use a high quality full synthetic oil, I would recommend Penrite but any high quality oil will suffice.
Tbh viscosity isn't as crucial as you might think in modern engines a 5W-30 will often be absolutely fine in almost every instance where a 0W-20 or a 10W-40 is recommended it's a great middle ground!
A friend of mine purchased a new 300 Series Sahara which he's had about 7 months, he also got a new Lexus LX500D which he's only had about 8 weeks. Do they have the same engine?
Is that the real compression ratio? 15.4:1? Why so high? 90degrees v6? I wonder how that compares to a 75degrees engine like NSX? Or 15 degrees like VW VR6? Does the 90degrees produces more torque?
Apologies I was thinking of the new Nissan Patrol's that are petrol-only. Is the Toyota V6 diesel any good? Most people seem to think the 1hd series is the best diesel motors Toyota made, but I haven't had any experience with the V8 diesel used in the 200's and 79's
i'm a 30yr diesel mechanic veteran... both my work ute and personal ute are 1hd-fte powered 79's. 600,000 kms on my work ute and both still as sweet as the day they were new. i wouldn't have anything else, including the v8, as i get to fix them on a weekly basis, and beyond 200,000 they are just way too fragile.
Very good point re oil capacity/ viscosity. We strongly recommend new car owners thoroughly read & understand their new car warranty inclusions/ exclusions (&/or request clarification). Most importantly Toyota's standard & ADDITIONAL SERVICE REQUIREMENTS section in the Warranty & Maintenance manual. Given the power that these things produce, many of them are used for towing obviously, hence importance re understanding what Toyota Australia expect with their service schedules.
It’s absolutely absurd you should even need to question the oil weight from the factory when spending 150k on a vehicle that is marketed as an indestructible Aussie tourer. Thanks for the video .
Every manufacturer is squeezing every engine component to extract maximum efficiency and minimum emissions, they don't care about longevity, just getting you thru the warranty period basically!
We've seen this on the Ford/JLR/PSA 2.7 TDV6 "Lion" engine.
PSA Peugeot Citroën specified a range of viscosity grades from 5W-30 synthetic all the way up to 15W-40 semi-synthetic depending on climatic conditions, whereas Jaguar Land Rover specified 5W-30 for all climates, and not even a requirement to run semi-synthetic or synthetic. Even Ford specify 5W-40 in the F-150 for the later 3.0 TDV6 when using bio-diesel or under severe conditions!
Needless to say, the most heavily affected application for main/big end bearing failures and even crankshaft failures are Land Rover products, not helped by the extra weight of the vehicle. I'm not saying the other brands don't suffer this issue, because there are inherent issues with the engine, but nowhere near to the same extent.
Just had a 300 in the last week with engine fail in Perth. U talk the truth 🤠
Yeh and Toyota laughed at them because someone’s had a little play with the engine ecm
Excellent. Someone who comes up with facts and solutions, and not just having a sook about things.
Clear and straight to the point . How all shops should be operating.
Thank you for the video. After your recent video with Morpowa I got straight onto my local dealer to get the oil changed, but they refused to use anything other than 0W-20 in the engine. Despite the fact that I tow a van and showing them the relevant section in the manual, they insisted I don't need to use heavier oil. I rang another local dealer and got the same response. Thanks to your team for putting me onto the right mechanic in our area, oil changed today and straight away noticed the difference. Engine noise is reduced, and oil pressure on the gauge looking much healthier. Really keen for larger capacity sump and a trans cooler bracket that works with the intercooler would be great too. Thanks again.
Unfortunately dealers often get caught between a rock and a hard place. They are bound by the mamufacturers rules and policies. If they advise otherwise they are liable ans risk loosing their franchise.
Hello Slippery. Dealers are correct to use the oil specified by the Manufacturer because of other hidden things you are not told about like ST (Synthetic Technology) oil filters. These are a bloody curse because ST filters have fine 20 micron gauze where EVERY other oil filter has 28-32 micron gauze. You can see that 5W-30 (DPF spec oil) is not going to flow as well as 0W-20 especially before fully heated up. I'm with you, towing you'd want 10W-40 (DPF Low ash type) or Shell Rimula R4-L (low ash) 15W-40 but MAKE sure got a 30 micron filter
@@shanequinn8356 the filter won’t be a restriction as it has a huge surface area and also a bypass valve.
Also, the owners manual for the 300 says 0W-20 or 0W-30 or 5W-30 so you can use any of those with absolutely no concerns.
That's exactly the section of the manual I showed the dealer along with the note on the next page "An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme loads conditions."
Don't use dealership servicing if you can help it. They're not interested in what's best for you, they're keen on just doing the bare minimum the manufacturer had instructed them to do...
Small engine, small life expectancy.
Fuck the new trend
Background music is a bit annoying. I am using 5W40 and no problems until now. Thanks for the video
Great car, great info, a few manufacturers are going 0w20 and the guys that service them say the same thing, change the oil asap.
If you feel you must use the 0w 20 it is good to check Toyotas spec .
A very very shear stable oil like Redline synthetic sounds essential.
I agree with the advice to use a higher viscosity oil.
Id pick it carefully though and check if it meets or exceed Toyota spec.
Shear stability will also be very important.
Thank you very much for your video
Very good information. I know that for the American market the reason why they run the light oils is to get better fuel economy which then gives the manufacturer credits with the govt agencies. Another very good tool is to conduct some oil sampling and from the analysis you can see exactly what is happening inside your engine.
@@whoisjohngalt-hg5us Yeah I agree that it's a Toyota issue and no you shouldn't have to analyse the oil but it is always interesting to see what is actually happening inside your engine. We use it on heavy plant and it can keep you ahead of catastrophic failures. When you are using a LV diesel for towing etc you could get a snap shot after say 5000km to see where your engine oil is at! Sometimes you might be surprised on how much more life it has. But if you use the wrong oil for the application it ain't going to end well! As said the information on what oils to use is in the owners manual, maybe the people at Toyota Australia should read it. Like most mechanical things it's not until it has been out in the field for a while that we start to see issues that the R&D didn't see coming or they just choose to ignore it! Sometimes the marketing dept overrides the engineers! It will be interesting to see how many s300 diesel engines start to fall over with time.
Application is the number one consideration when deciding what oil is best for your vehicle.
do you recommend the same for the 2.8 litre
Interesting video with good content. The fact is engines use hydrodynamic fluid film bearing, the load is carried via the oil wedge. Increase one of the variables such as force it may result in reduction of the fluid film thicknesses. Engineers use specialist software applications to calculate fatigue and stress limits. An engine such as 1HDFTE has 7 main bearings to carry the load. A V6 engine usually has 4 main bearings. Unless the bearing journal diameters and width are increased significantly to have plenty of safety margin, failure rates would increase. There is a reason HD industrial diesel engines have such large displacements and are built the way they are!
The problem is that the 300 series V6 engine has smaller bearings than the inline sixes such as the 1HDFTE. The video below explains this.
ruclips.net/video/EXgfJOmssO8/видео.html
Why do people put music in the background, trying to listen and pay attention to what your saying is annoying.
amazing how people like you find out these issues and not the manufacturer. They will put new engines in every car in the country before they do anything.
Ofc! That's what they want! They want your vehicle to blow up and not go the distance, they stand to benefit by selling you parts and repairs etc these dealers and manufacturers don't care about your vehicle's longevity...
Maybe
@@rickb314 how do they benefit by changing engines under warranty ?
@@spannaspinna they don't. That's not what I was referring to. Ofc they don't want your engine failing within the warranty period. I meant "not going the distance" as in not lasting ten, fifteen, twenty years like engines would have in decades gone by...
Great to see a company doing more than a marketing campaign. Informative vid. Those 300s have tiny bearings.
it is a marketing campaign! So punters will still tune a car with known issues.
Yeah, it is, but it’s also not driving a tune down ir throat, n at least is giving great knowledgeable free advice. For example 4wd/24/7 is now just an ad, with a bit of wheeling thrown in. This was at least to the point
Yes I read of then having smaller bearings than previous engines from Toyota
You must remember the dealerships are into the selling cars, not maintaining them and keeping them on the road
Sensible advice. Too many dealer service departments are managed by people who may have the right credentials, but have little real world experience when it comes to the wide range of uses that their customers vehicles are put through.
Dealerships have their hands tied unfortunately by the requirement to strictly adhere to manufacturers instructions and approved fluids/parts when it comes to servicing
This is an extremely well structured video, everything clearly explained. What i get from it though......don't by the 300 until they've sorted this out. 2nd or 3rd gen at least.
Excellent presentation!
Increasing oil viscosity rating: there is another theory that modern engines designed for 0W 20 and thin oils have tiny galleries that are not suitable for thicker viscosity grades such as the 5W 40 you mentioned.
Would appreciate your comment on this, please.
Thanks, Frank
I use to own Toyotas for 20 years. Then the past 10 years I’ve own Mercedes, Mitsubishi and Isuzu. I’d have to say weighing up my past 10 years experience,I would never go back to Toyota again. Toyota today relies too much on the name and the past and think they can charge accordingly.
Tell us you've bought a ranger without telling us 😂😂😂
@ only in your dreams champ.
You'd HAVE to win the lottery to be able to buy one! If that's your absolute favourite car, your standard isn't very high!
@@derekjarrett4011 did I say the word favourite?
Not you - the guy making the video clip.
I can understand Toyota’s need to meet strict requirements and so insist on using oil that’s like water but reducing the sump capacity at the same time seems like a dangerous move. A lot of people don’t understand how important the oil is in cooling an engine. I’m sure it’s part of Toyota’s weight saving program done on the Cruiser but at what cost to the long term reliability? Most will make it through the warranty period but it’s way too early to see how they go long term. Something else most people don’t know is that car manufacturers design their cars with an expected life span and the Toyota Land Cruiser has one of the longest at 25 years. I wonder if that has changed. There is also no place for lazy or cheapskate owners anymore as now, more than ever, oil changes are critical for long time reliability. I wouldn’t even consider a used Cruiser, or any modern car for that matter, without proof of regular oil changes. Companies like yours are doing owners a great job at allowing owners to mitigate the potential disaster of a destroyed engine.
Given the price the 300 series goes for I just find it hard to accept that a company with the engineering reputation Toyota has isn’t doing more to resolve this.
Love the look of the 300 and Toyota but this makes the vehicle feel too precious for the rugged conditions they are targeted for.
All said - love the video and what you are doing. Well done.
@ it boggles the mind in this day and age
Good to see Toyota following Fords lead by fitting steel pistons and a hot vee setup. Pity they specify such an oil in a vehicle a lot of people use for towing, and in having such a tiny sump.
I don’t think ford is a good example
@ why is that? A proven engine for over a decade. Great power, enormous torque, good fuel economy.
The crazy thing is alot of European manufacturers consider Australia a severe climate/use and specify the oil and service intervals to suit. I worked for a Mercedes dealer years ago and Mercedes Australia stipulated heavier oil and fixed distance intervals despite the use of thinner oil and variable intervals in other markets. VW/Audi was the same, effectively halving the intervals for Australian market cars. Even Citroen requires shorter intervals and thicker, synthetic, oil.
Not sure I agree with the comment of the lower viscosity oil not being able to pull heat from the motor. Really a low viscosity oil will have more capacity to pull heat due to its ability to flow more. I think the real issue is the smaller sump and the oil not having enough time to dissipate the heat load, combined with the higher loads that the oil is subjected to (compared to previous landcruiser engines). If seeing oil temps around that 130deg mark then your defiantly looking at the oil viscosity thinning significantly - oil grades are rated at 100degC so the more you push over that temp the more you should think about bumping up a viscosity grade. Bigger sump will defiantly help out and higher viscosity will help maintain a better oil film at the high temps. My previous vehicle had a 2.7 V6 diesel and that put some decent heat loads into the engine - bumped it up to a 5W40 to help out at the higher temps - didn't see any lower temps when loaded (compared to the lower viscosity "recommended" oil) but I knew the oil will be dealing with the conditions better.
And low viscosity oils are generally not terrible - they are often POA synthetic base stock (they need to be as a group III "synthetic" wont do the job) with very good anti-wear additive packs. The additive pack needs to be robust in order to compensate for the lack of base oil viscosity. And a higher viscosity oil will have a similar impact to its service life when running at high temps. As a general rule of thumb the oxidation rate of oil doubles for every 10degC over 60degC
But 100% low viscosity oils are for emissions, there's no other reason to use them otherwise
Yeah the 0-20 oil would have been some what ok if they bumped up the oil capacity by double.......the ford rangers 3.2 run a 0-30 but have 9.5 litres capacity
Cool story, needs more dragons
@@TasmanianDevil3 😄
Do you know what the best 10/40 pao/ester based oil with moderate zinc (zddp of 12-15 ppm)? As in what's the best oil for a non dpf/ non EGR diesel ?
@DonnachaWalsh Cock and balls oil usually
Theres a youtuber in wa who recently grenaded a motor on his chopped 300 series. Probs what happened to them with the 0 w 30 oil.
Crazy the amount of poor Aussies these later cruiser's have effected financially. It's a stretch for most Aussies to buy 1 then go through all that heart ache.
If you watch LRTIME channel, to stop the Lion V6 diesel from failure use heavier oil than factory.
Well that engine only used 5W-30 as the only recommendation in Jaguar and Land Rover applications. For the 2.7 TDV6, Peugeot Citroën specify a range of viscosity grades ranging from 5W-30 up to 15W-40 depending on climate, and they insist on using either synthetic (5W-30 or 5W-40) or semi-synthetic (10W-40 or 15W-40) oils whereas neither Jaguar nor Land Rover even mention the base oil recommended. Even Ford specify 5W-40 in the F-150 for the later 3.0 TDV6 when using bio-diesel or under severe conditions!
Thanks for this video - looking at a LC300, so getting as much info as possible.
Question : In the video you recommend 5W40 Oil, however in the Doc on your website it recommends 5W30. I know there isn't a huge difference, but I assume the video being newer is an updated recommendation?
Unfortunately Toyota won’t warrant a 5/40 oil. Catch 22 right. 5/40 is a better option but Toyota will blame the oil first since the handbook recommends a 0/20 C5 or 0/30 C2
Sure? VDJ200 also state a 0W-20 but then in specifications there is a viscosity/temp chart that includes 5w-30 & 5w-40.
Oh! what a feeling.....
Especially at the bank....
Thank you for your video
We have a "high performance vehicle from another Japanese brand that uses 0w 30 with 20k service intervals and have never had an issue. Surely the great Toyota should be doing or saying something about this as it is a common issue in Australia. They sell these cars marketed at towing so for sure it'll be under stress. I think they've come out with a dud of an engine and it's not fair for us consumers holding onto the Toyota banner of reliability. The other concern I have with them is their safety isn't up to scratch either. It's very disappointing to see. Regular service means more money. Great for you being a shop very not good for us consumers.
If that 12k km motor failed how come the owner didnt take it back to the dealer?
Because it was tuned
Another great vid with good info.Interestingly, new Defender runs 0w 20,with over 30,000Km service intervals.....🙂
Yeah I have one. 34000km interval! I am getting it done more frequently and aiming for 10k changes. Also the transmission fluid has no change interval from land rover, but I believe ZF do have a recommended interval. Touch wood the defender has been trouble free and just hit 30000km. Let's see if it gets to 300,000km 😂
Those gearboxes have been know to do 300k without an oil change @user-pp6kw6yl6z
@@user-pp6kw6yl6z10,000km oil change intervals is a great idea. I would not run 0W-20 either - run a C3 5W-30 or 0W-30
Transmission fluid and filter every 80,000km as per ZF
What grade you recommend for 200 series dpf? C3 0w30 to thin?
@@chadlantry858 Toyota specs C2 0W-30 for the 200 series diesel. I would run a C3 0W-30 or 5W-30 (5W-30 is easier to find and cheaper)
C3 has a higher HTHS viscosity compared to C2, so even if the grade (0W-30/5W-30) is the same, the C3 offers better protection than the C2.
What oil do you recommend then in the 2023 Hilux Diesel?
Way too early in the life of 300s, especially with Toyota's engine problems overseas. I note other engine YTer like EngineCare1417 have already raised possible main bearing problems, and to watchcthis space. I like the vehicle, but not yet. In the meantime, I'll hang onto my last series 200. I hope the 300 turns out OK.
How did one of those motors have low oil to start with, oil leaks or burning oil?
Exactly what I was thinking. Why ignore a major issue of oil consumption as per the Toyota bulletin?
And why no prior warning of the low oil level?
Why no oil light
@@susanmeyers6821 One less system to maximize profits
@@Miles-bq4yntry watching the video......
Every time I consider upgrading the 200, I see a good reason to keep her for another 100-200k or so
Interesting video. Are you able to share any empirical evidence i.e. oil analysis of the lighter Toyota oil vs the recommended heavier oil. Or possible increase in engine wear associated with heavy oil during cold startup? Thanks!
Putting 5w-30 in my tundra next oil change
Good on ya mate. Great advice. Never heard of a 0-20.
Change the oil regularly - 5 or 10K mate? what do you think?
Interesting. Good video. Isn’t the V6 in the Tundra, going on sale in Australia, having issues with the crank shaft.
Emission's is complicating and killing early so many cars. It has to be asked how much energy in fuel is saved over killing cars early in there lifespan and having to make new ones.
This is 100% the case. Toyota was building the 2JGTE 30 years ago and they were so over-engineered that people could make over 800hp pretty reliably on the stock bottom end. Big oil galleries, great oil pump, Siamese bores, quality metals etc.
Now with emissions rules, all cars are getting stupidly complex and reliability is going down the drain. New cars don't interest me anymore and I wish I just bought a GU patrol with a TD42 20 years ago and just kept it forever.
Have you guys looked at making and installing a dry sump system? Sounds like overkill I know, but it's tried and true technology that's been in use for ages.
I 100% agree with you on the oil, are the piston all steel or just the combustion, ring lands area cheers
My MQ Triton use 5-30w. Should I increase it to 5-40w if I start towing over long distances? But the sump does hold 8.4L
I use Mobil 1 synthetic.
Not as good as it originally was but still seems plenty good.
Pennzoil synthetic is advertised as "Made from natural gas", is probably better.
Original Mobil 1 made from acetylene gas. But now made from crude oil.
This is not true. Being a light weight oil does not mean its lower quality
Probably not the right way to say it, but in high load applications thin oils should be avoided. It’s not a new concept.
Yes, oil weight is different to oil quality. But point he is saying is a 0W20 is light oil for extreme conditions or high temperatures which is common for a small displacement engine in a big vehicle especially towing
AWESOME - thank you. Any advice on Prado/Hilux engines? 😊
There’s a recall on very similar engines in the U.S.of A.
They’re blaming it on manufacturing swarf in the engine.
Toyota used to have a reputation for quality- NOT any more.
You're being a drama queen. The US issue is the petrol engine as far as I'm aware, and it was from metal shavings. Mistakes happen, and it's a big company. They make better cars than anyone else. The LC aint going to fall apart because of low quality.......it's certainly better than anything from Europe or the US.
@@noneofyourbusiness5433 and your being an ignorant queen. metal shaving are swarf. fanboy.
@@noneofyourbusiness5433The swarf excuse is baloney, some Tundra’s are on their 3rd engine. Toyota quietly changed the part number of the bearing journals earlier this year. The damage was caused by soft bearing journal’s.
Nice work ,0-20 good lord what are they thinking
I’m about to purchase a 250 prado with the 2.8l 48v mild hybrid engine. What oil would you recommend for towing a large caravan around auzzie ? Cheers Frank
Great video with useful information. The background noise that masquerades as music is highly irritating 😅
LandCruiser 300 running a high performance diesel engine only 10% bigger than a Dmax engine so great care needs to be taken on the maintenance side. Unfortunately only a small percentage of failures will happen under warranty. Need to take early steps to prevent problems outside of warranty
Holy hell 5.5l sump that’s crazy
It’s actually 6.6L
Mad. My honda XL 750 transalp moto has a 4L sump!!
OM642 in WH Jeep GC has 10 litres .
6.6L fill recommendation not sump capacity
I got me a Fowlcan, has a 8.8 litre sump including filter, says to run 5w20 but I run it on 15/40 0/40 5/30 5/40 10/30 but never 5/20. Always synthetic, never over 5,000 kilometre intervals, runs like new and it does tick or smoke. Draw yer own conclusions. Got me nuther veHickle which runs 0/20 fine …. Both veHickles have water heat exchangers around the filter … mmm.
Probably doesn’t help that they take $100k truck and throw $50k or weight on it which weighs several hundred kilograms plus aero drag too but don’t install an oil cooler. The 0w20 isn’t the problem it’s the extra work you’re make the oil do and not changing it often enough, it’s getting too hot and falling apart. You’ll eventually have the same problem with 5/40 because you’re probably overworking the oil. Those big tyres and hi lifts make everything work harder, axles, wheels bearings, brakes, transmissions and engines and therefore the engine oil.
I'm not a mechanical or chemical engineer, but a quick search shows that a SAE 0W20 is not suitable for Australian climate!
I use 5W40 (Castrol Edge) for my FJ Cruiser, but dealerships use 5W30 (some use 10W40). Does 5W30 work well in around 40 degrees Celsius with aircon on, fully loaded, while offroading?
I’ve had 3 V6 prado’s, I have always used 10w30 oil from Toyota spare parts. Never had an issue towing, working them on the beach
…dealers having enough common sense to check with the customer how they use the vehicle…..there’s your problem !
The recommended oil for my 1GD Prado is 0W-30. I’m going to check my handbook to see if they advise a heavier weight oil for a vehicle with heavy use. And I can’t believe the 300 oil capacity is less than a 1GD
It’s for the DPF as well, might need to look at a higher efficiency DPF if going 5W40
The bearings are way too small on the crank for the amount of Torq produced. I'm sure this is going to be a problem
Have seen more of these on tilt than any other cruiser. Not worth the risk.
The new 300's have a lot smaller crankshaft bearings compared to the 200. Heard of failures of these too.
Interesting, heeps of gr yaris's are grenading around the world too, seen some mechanics talking about the same problem, running 0w20 being the main contributing factor.
Most lc300 getting tuned they dont tune them over 40hp for a reason. Yet these go crazy. See a lot more blown up after a few years because of this
@@lovelc2006 no most don’t tune over 40hp cause they don’t know how to while keeping them safe
If I lived in Australia I would run Shell Rotella T6 10W-30 full synthetic in all my vehicles and power equipment
While it may not affect the F33 diesel engine I note the petrol RAV4 hybrid calls up Toyota's 0W16 oil and the Car Care Nut (Toyota guru) recommends owners stick strictly with that because components like the variable valve timing and variable oil pump rely on it. Although it seems with 0W16 availability many/most Toyota dealers are opting for more available 0W20. The moral to the story is pay close attention to what and why with increasing sophistication of fluid technology to meet emission Regs deliberately strangling the ICE to get us to shift to EVs.
The SAE rating of the oil must align with the ambient temperature spectrum, so for Australia, must be a 40.
Interested to know what 5w40 oil you use. Hilux requires 0w30 c2. Can’t find any c2 oil in a 5w40.
You done the pre dyno checks. Then ran it up on the dyno.
Then it locked up. And pulled it down and found it was low on oil…….
What did the dipstick say in the pre dyno checks?
Does the engine oil galleries designed for 0-20, going to 5-40, would that put alot of strain on the oil pump. I have a diesel 200 @ 174 thousand, I have had not one problem with it towing 3.5 ton van around Australia, I have seen a lot off 300 series broken down, all cars have teething problems.
No, won’t cause any issues at all running a 5W-40
Any particular oil you suggest? Does it have to be C2?
What would you recommend on DPF 200 series towing 80% of its life. 160k
What 5w40 oil exactly do you use and at what intervals in the just auto 300?
All this talk about oil is a little confusing. I am keen to put 5w 30 or 5w 40 in the LC300 however i cant find any that are either C2 or C5? Can a C3 be used , whats the difference?
So glad i bought a y62 instead of these troublesome toyotas.
Me too. Read my comment at the top. 2004 Hilux....
Great choice. The Y62 is a beast.
@JustAutosMechanical will an after market oil cooler as well as the oil switch help as well??
More torque than the v8 smaller bearings . Trouble waiting to happen I'm thinking.
We have 444hp - 1000nm in our 300, if it was an issue we would know about it by now.
Having over sized bearings doesn't make it stronger, if the bearings and oil are correctly specced to work together and the rotating parts can always ride on an oil film, then there is no issue and never will be. Over sizing the bearings just increases drag and heat generation. Both bad things.
@@glennmoore5880 The more surface area a plain bearing has the better it can hold the oil there. The new engine has more Torq than a v8 cruiser. So your saying smaller plain bearings are better? Why don't trucks or heavy machinery use them then? How does more heat build up if the moving parts never touch? At cold start a larger bearing surface will hold more oil and have less wear.
@@jamestanner9198 it is clear that Toyota and modern diesel manufacturers are all playing this "efficiency" game.
Smaller bearings gives less drag and stiction.
So many things about modern cars is all about politics and stupid Climate Change lies to substantiate the financial gravy train than anything else.
Take Nissan's ZD30 engine over the TD42 for example, smaller engine can achieve similar performance, but no savings on fuel used, same with the 6.5L Chev diesel and duramax, just more engine and power with the same amount of fuel needed at cruise.
Changing a diesel engine and making the capacity smaller is just to reduce friction area and appease the unintelligent, not much else.
There is no free lunch, you want to move X mass with Y joules of energy/litre, you can only achieve so much.
EGR on a diesel is just emissions, not fuel savings unlike a petrol engine.
4 valves per cylinder? I don't see the point.
The DPF? Holy cow, what a colossal POS that is.
I find it very interesting when you see that 6 Super Tankers that travel the world pollute the same amount for all cars on the planet, we have around 4500 of these ships in the world.
Engineering for performance and making a car for the consumer in mind is long gone, we now live in a world with UN initiatives that are putting huge pressure on automakers to make cars a certain way.
Ask yourself, where is all of the world's money? The middle class, who is getting hit the hardest 😉
I still have my Patrol, CRD30 and my engine brand new never knew what an EGR was, nor a Cat or DPF. A proper crankcase breather system installed, correct oil viscosity, great Intercooler, proper coolant system and it sings along nicely, with the odd puff of smoke when on the high fuel setting, but I barely need to use it.
@@SimonWorlds Have still got a td42t with only 270 on clock no rust a 2001 model and I love it. Planes burn how much fuel. think about that and no anti pollution on them.
Wow, so that’s what’s going on with the 300 series. Some friends just had a catastrophic engine failure out on the Nullarbor towing a van with their 3 year old diesel Hilux with only 34K on the clock. Fortunately it’s under warranty and Toyota have been excellent getting it sorted out, (an engine is coming from Japan!!). Toyota gave them a car to get around. I don’t yet know what failed but apparently this was the eighth catastrophic engine failure in Australia and Toyota is looking at some sort of notice to dealers.
Would an oil cooler also be a reasonable idea in the extreme conditions, considering the oiling seems to be marginal at best standard?
Is there any downside to using 5W30 or 5W40 oil in an engine that's having an easy life?
My personal choice for all my diesel’s is to run penrite and I’ve always changed the oil at 5k intervals. Can I ask what brand of oil you run in your services for the 300 as I wish to look after my new investment which is a gx 300
I’ll stick with my 1HZ
Make sure that it is a 5W40 C3
The C3 is VERY VERY important.
Can you elaborate on this?
@Samuel_E81 dpf compatible, otherwise it will void warranty and also cause dpf failure
Worried now. My darling wife recently bought a Subaru and oil recommendation is 0-16. Alternative by the book is 0-20.
Would I be out of line using something like 5-30 as they do in other countries?
It shouldn’t be an issue. First up it’s a petrol engine, probably naturally aspirated so it’s a relatively low stressed engine and won’t develop the heat issues associated with the 300 series. The services intervals are relatively short (12 months or 10000km) so adhere strictly to those requirements and use a high quality full synthetic oil, I would recommend Penrite but any high quality oil will suffice.
There is a lot more to the recommended oil viscosity than we think and these engines have much tighter tolerances than older engines.
Only done for fuel economy.
Not the reason. Tight tolerances have been around for 20 years, 0W oil is a recent ploy to minimise pollution numbers.
Absolute myth, 5w40 is perfectly fine unless you’re in Antarctica
@@chasp_0784I’m running 20/50 in summer as temps never go below 37deg c..
Tbh viscosity isn't as crucial as you might think in modern engines a 5W-30 will often be absolutely fine in almost every instance where a 0W-20 or a 10W-40 is recommended it's a great middle ground!
Will the original oil filter handle 5-40 oil ?
A friend of mine purchased a new 300 Series Sahara which he's had about 7 months, he also got a new Lexus LX500D which he's only had about 8 weeks. Do they have the same engine?
5L oil yeah good idea, Toyota makes a good anchor
So should I also avoid using 0W20 oil In my new Rav4? Would it be ideal to use 5w40 instead??
What does your owners manual say?
T6 15/40 for the win
Can you ask your dealer to change out the oil to 5w40 oil and keep your warranty ?
Is that the real compression ratio? 15.4:1? Why so high? 90degrees v6? I wonder how that compares to a 75degrees engine like NSX? Or 15 degrees like VW VR6? Does the 90degrees produces more torque?
Thanks
Apologies I was thinking of the new Nissan Patrol's that are petrol-only. Is the Toyota V6 diesel any good? Most people seem to think the 1hd series is the best diesel motors Toyota made, but I haven't had any experience with the V8 diesel used in the 200's and 79's
i'm a 30yr diesel mechanic veteran... both my work ute and personal ute are 1hd-fte powered 79's. 600,000 kms on my work ute and both still as sweet as the day they were new. i wouldn't have anything else, including the v8, as i get to fix them on a weekly basis, and beyond 200,000 they are just way too fragile.
@i-am-that-what-i-am my 80 is at 712 k km on original 1hz still chugging but probably getting tired in its old age (1992 build)
What about the 200? Dpf model runs a 0w30 I think. Have you seen issue there at all? Or does it have a larger capacity?
Around 9.0L sump capacity so quite a bit larger,but the engine is larger as well.Toyota uses 0W 30 in our Hi Ace vans,as well as our 200.
How much can you overfill them before the airate?
Is the piston really steel or is it iron ?
Very good point re oil capacity/ viscosity. We strongly recommend new car owners thoroughly read & understand their new car warranty inclusions/ exclusions (&/or request clarification). Most importantly Toyota's standard & ADDITIONAL SERVICE REQUIREMENTS section in the Warranty & Maintenance manual. Given the power that these things produce, many of them are used for towing obviously, hence importance re understanding what Toyota Australia expect with their service schedules.
Doesn't tge current model hilux/Prado run 0w-20? Ive done a few always use 5w30/40 oil.