Best way to void your warranty is fit aftermarket larger wheels/tyres and everything else in the TJM catalogue. Toyota (and all other OEM's) love rejecting claims because peanut beard strokers have overloaded their vehicles or put non-standard wheels sizes on their cars. Tip 1: run the oil the dealer uses or that is recommended by the book. that's both weight and class (ACEA / SAE or other specifications) Tip 2 : get your vehicle serviced on time at a qualified mechanic (doesn't need to be an OEM dealer, just licensed) to ensure your warranty stays valid Tip 3: Don't mod the car with junk from the TJM catalogue that's not from the OEM until the warranty expires if you want to be sure you'll be looked after. Tip 4: any aftermarket shop that says they can do a GVM/towing upgrade is smoking crack. if stuff goes wrong they'll forget they know you as will the OEM. Just wait until you get hit at the weigh bridge and told to leave your aluminium shitter on the side of the road. Tip 4: realise an onsite cabin is far cheaper than a caravan and for the odd night you're not at a park, pitch a tent or use a swag.
I have used a 15w40 oil in my 92 1hdt 80 series for the last 10 years has 386000 on the clock has no blowby(taking oil cap off while running) cap does not move plus no oil burning. Any opinion on that. I am a mechanic and checked but replaced big end bearings about 8 years ago but i change oil and filter at between 4-5000km. Oil doesn’t start to go black until around 2000km. I cannot afford a 200 or 300 series so i maintain my 80. Maintanence is the key to longevity
15-40 in my 1HD-FTE Ute also mate, still clear oil at 5000km on the dipstick, but that engine does have a much bigger filter than every Tojo motor since, and has a capacity of 12.4L 😏
That is amazing that Toyota recommends a 0W-20 for a diesel. Here in the great white north, diesels routinely use 5W-40 or heavier. I have never seen a diesel using 0W-20 engine oil in Canada. Personally I think it a receipt for disaster.
@@marekbodzon6440yes. It’s a shame we don’t have something in the environment like trees that take pollutants out of the atmosphere and emit fresh clean air. Then we could all be breathing the correct O2 to stay healthy and happy. 😁🍺
In my 2017 holden colorado rg I'm using recomended 5w30 but for caravan towing in queensland I think and I agree with you mate to switch to 5w40 just for summer.You have mentioned how to make oil better a lot of people in my old country(poland) are using liqui molly "ceratec" in oil.I did use before in my previous diesel car -isuzu d max "roil platinum"also nano ceramics which from unknown reason was removed from market.When I addet it do diff oil I instantly felt bit more power.At this moment I have in my engine oil american SMT2. To the fuel I use additive "responsive" australian made(also nano ceramics) and in fuel lane I fitted "fuel mate" tin catalyst also made in australia and I'm very impressed especially when towing about 2 Tons and consuming about 13L/100k maintaining constant speed 100k/h cheers
Thank you so much for this Info. I found this really informative. I really think it would be beneficial to run at least the 5w30 all the time anywhere in Australia - it can only be better for the engine long term!😊
Matty Smith your a legend mate! Love your attention to detail such an informative vid mate. I agree strongly with 5k service intervals and i run a 10w40 in my hilux. Its pushin 200hp with 34" tires and oil changed every 5k.... she has 437,000km on her and still purring👌 my next build matt smith you will be the only one working on it! Love ya work mate
I noticed second service onwards, Morningside Toyota have been putting 0W30 in mine. Mid service, ie, 5,000km, I've been putting in 5W30. I guess you should make it clear to everyone that the oil should be the correct C rating synthetic. Keep up the good work.
The 0W30 will probably be a C3 oil (check your receipt) The correct "C" rating is important, but it is also understand what the C rating actually stands for. For example C5 /C6 is what Toyota uses in the 0W20, whereas the 0W30 would be a C3 The main difference is the HTHS rating. The higher the number the better protected the engine, but also the higher the parasitic losses due to fluid resistance (imagine turning a spoon in a cup of water versus a spoon in a cup of honey for an extreme polar opposite example of it) C5 /6 has a HTHS of a minimum of 2.6 C3 has a HTHS of a minimum of 3.5 Both are LOW SAPS oils (the back of the bottle will tell you) Summed up under city driving using a C3 will yield slightly worse fuel economy BUT overall your engine will be better protected.
@@wss5203no issue using C3 instead of C2 C2 is the same as C3, just C2 has a lower HTHS viscosity which improves fuel economy at the expense of engine wear. C3 is a better choice for engine protection
@@wss5203 This is one area that is a bit confusing. What I mean is that ORIGINALLY a C2 oil had a HTHS of a minimum of 2.9 And a C3 oil has a HTHS minimum of 3.5 Yet there are oils that are C2/C3 (meet both specs) Which doesn't make any sense.... Since they each have a different minimum HTHS spec (which seems to be the only difference between them).
If you've got a DPF, go for C3 (better HTHS) over C2, and pick an oil that meets, or even better, is licensed by some of the best standards ie. VW 504/507, MB 229.51/.52 and Porsche C30. Shell Ultra ECT 0w30 and the Mobil1 are very good. Those OEM specs from VW and MB and Porsche are some of the toughest oil specs. Shell is a very conservative company, so they don't claim them unless they really have done all the hard work making sure they reach the standards. Some of the Penrite C3 etc are probably ok but dont have the GTL base stock. Have a look at oil forums on the web if you're really interested eg BITOG forum have very helpful members with a wealth of knowledge. Before you jnow it you'll be doing used oil analyses
love your work mate great video very knowledgeable and informative....I would say that changing your engine oil every 5k is excessive even under high load conditions, if you are using a high quality engine oil of the correct specification and viscosity the oil should harness contaminants whilst at the same time retaining its additive chemistry over 10k without a problem... i agree that 0w20 in the 300 is ridiculous and all about emissions and less about engine protection and performance, but to your point i would think the sump capacity would be a major contributing factor to the premature oil degradation, I'm baffled why the oil capacity for that engine is any less than 8-10Litres. As you said heat it the biggest factor here essentially
Great information 🙌🏽 Nearly ordered a 300 a few months back, ended up ordering a Dual cab Isuzu NPS 4x4. With weights I need to tow and carrying capacity can’t beat it… although the trade offs will be comfort and handling to name a few 😂
Hi, we have just purchased a 2024 - 250 Prado with the 2.8 lt 48 volt assisted system. Have about 800km on the clock and are planning to tow our 3000kg caravan on a trip. Would you recommend we run a heavier weight oil from day one, providing warranty is not compromised. And what weight and brand of oil, is your recommendation? Cheers Frank
I have mine serviced at the Toyota dealer who use Castrol 0w30 Professional ,and not 0W20 . I also have it serviced every 5000k regardless of my driving habits. I asked why they use 0w30 and they pretty much confirmed your comments. They also said they recommend 0W30 because I get it changed every 5000. If I just done normal service interval (10k) they would probably go a little higher weight.
My now retired boss ,Col Mann , an absolute unspoken genius ,worked with PM Oils in brisbane to formulate an oil suitable for most applications from heavy road transport , agriculture , and everyday 4wd diesel usage , They came up a single grade 30 w oil ,which we used in every application , teflon free , wether ,deutz and particularly all the air cooled range where oil cooling is paramount , to cat ,john deere ,new holland , signature cummins , 60 series detroit as well as the 2stroke range, mack with mil spec 2104c , and all the 4wd makes , amazing results ,but once again service intervals critical, as well as filter choice , sadly manufactures in the interest of service costs and manufacturing costs,and enviornmentl concerns ,(disposal) have reduced sump capacity to the point of being ridiculous , my mack had an esi package , 60 litres of oil ,my bmws mostly are 6.5litres and oil temperature is critical for engine life .
I change my oil every 5000 km as well. It is easy to keep track of and is good for the engine. Definitely don't go with the manufacturers oil service intervals. They want the vehicle to die so you have to buy another.
Just a question, is there any place in Australia that has 0 degrees min temp and 20 degrees max temp every day? I live in a climate where it can be 0 degrees in winter and up to 45 degrees in summer I think ur rite on the money
So if you stick with 0-20 and are using the 300 outside factory parameters I,e pulling big vans, and trailers what would the recommended service intervals be ?
This used to be common sense stuff. The newer Toyotas in the UK are 0w16 or 20 for most models. I've been using 5w40 in the wife's Toyota (ow20 recommended) for the past 10 years as the 900cc engine gets thrashed up hills on her daily commute. Dad stuck with 5w30 or 40 depending on how he used the cars. As you say, higher the typical engine rpm and therefore temps, use the more viscous or "heavier" oil. No issues with cranking the engine, even at low temps like now.
It won't last any longer because the additive package will deplete just as quickly, but it will have a higher film strength so less likely to pick up a bearing.
The 2 problems with 0W20 are: It's very thin and the HTHS (High Temperature High Shear) rating HTHS summed up is: The lower the number, the better for ZERO load fuel economy, The higher the number, the better the engine will be protected. Imagine turning a wooden spoon in a cup of water, and then turning a spoon in a cup of honey (extreme ends of the spectrum), in the cup of honey there is more resistance (rotational FRICTION) BUT if you are rubbing your finger tip and the tip of your thumb together, the honey will provide the best protection against WEAR. So the 0W20 is a C5/C6 oil which has a HTHS of a minimum of 2.6 (2.6-2.9) Whereas A 5W30 C3 has a HTHS of a minimum 3.5 (you can get 0w30 C2/C3 engine oils) The C3 component not only references the HTHS but also that it can be used in an engine with a diesel particulate filter (if in doubt read the information of the back of the oil container), Since modern C3 oils are pretty much all "LOW SAPS" (but again read the back of the bottle) Whereas a A3B4 which also has a HTHS of a minimum of 3.5 CANNOT due to being a "mid saps" oil From memory as long as the owners manual says that a specific oil can be used in a car, the manufacturer can't deny any claims (if you are being honest with service history etc).
Hi , I live in newzealand, I’m a qualified mechanic and drive a 2021 Hilux, I use Fuchs 0w30 synthetic, is this ok, we also on occasion tow a jayco silverline outback which is around 2.8 ton.
The thing with new gen Toyota EGR systems is the narrow galleries built into the rocker covers. Skimping on an oil change, or using a grade heavier has led to serious sludging in the UR/GR eight and six cylinder Toyota engines in the past (particularly the GR six pots) I would be wary of this in the new hot valley V6 motors, and would suggest an illegal, but probably worthwhile EGR deletion be evaluated.
Well said, the only time engines really have a problem is when people put a mono grade oil in an engine not designed for it. What do I mean by this putting a straight SAE 50 w oil in a modern engine will damage it. Changing from a zero weight to a five weight is not gonna make any difference for engine damage but it will make a difference for protecting it against wear and tear and hot environment . Great video keep up your awesome work .
Coll Mann worked with PM Oils to develop a multi purpose oil ,which was a single grade 30w oil , no teflon synthetic rubbish , worked well on every application for 20 plus years , synthetic additives are the first to fail in an oil , despite being promoted as the opposite , any thing below a 15w/40 in australia is a waste of time.
@ totally correct with older vehicles, she got trained for a year all about oils oil types and engine useful when I was building a racing motorcycle engines. But cannot remember everything because of our severe Brain Injury I had five years ago approximately. The irony is in some countries if they double refine a mineral oil, it’s classified as a full synthetic? I’ve always liked high-quality minerals, some mineral oils are better than others for engine lubrication as a different oil sources from around the world.
What are your thoughts on genuine coolant versus Aftermarket (major brand... not something from the $2 store)? And thoughts on "water wetter" products either in "everyday cars" or in the Land cruiser 300 etc.
10000km service is to long i thought without watching this video. I have gr yaris and gr 300. Did my own oil change at 1000kms toyota didn't say it needed it. Did it anyway, using genuine oil and filter. And then i do 5000km oil/filter change. Then the 10000km i let toyota do it for the log book. My cars before that was a gu patrol and a r34 skyline, oil change every 5000kms and never had a problem with the engine for years. Only like clutchs and turbos because i beat on them 😅 i live in qld and just decided to do 5w40 today on the 300 because the missus has been using it alot onnthe highway. And noticed it chews the 0w20. Dip stick was showing half way between the dots. That was after 5000kms of driving and had 50ml or more of oil in the catch can and more water from the condensation. Maybe winter time ill do 5w30, hot qld weather 5w40. I dont mind, i over think and like to do do things myself. Im wanting to make custom bonnet vents of the 300 to suck the hot air away from the turbos. Done it on my r34 skyline, my patrol, gr yaris. But just cant find something for the 300
when the 1VD-FTV V8 came out the 6 Cylinder owners said it was garbage. new cruisers are always more comfortable, faster and cheaper to run than the old ones.
I have been saying this before the LC300 was released - even 0w20 in the hybrid small car range is not optimal a good quality 5w30 on a well controlled service schedule is optimal in my opinion.
Hola . Muy agradecido de que se tome el tiempo y comparta sus recomendaciones con todos nosotros. Siempre muy agradecido. En esta ocasión quiero compartir, quizás arrojar un poco más de luz sobre este problema al que se refiere. Esto es "La lubricación o los problemas de lubricación que presenta el F33A-FTV", no muy distintos al de la mayoría de todos los V6 Diesel. Son cuatro los inconvenientes que surgen desde la propia concepción de un V6 Diesel. Se trata de motores compactos con bloques cortos y por ende cigüeñales cortos. 1- Esto lleva a que el ancho de apoyo de los cojinetes de bancada y de biela resulten demasiado angostos, determinando una superficie apoyo deficiente en relación a las cargas a las que suelen desarrollar estos motores. Acá se puede comparar tamaños de cojinetes de cigueñales que no se rompen con los tamaños típicos de los V6 Diesel. 2- ¿Por qué se presenta el problema de lubricación en la zona media del cigüeñal? Mientras que los bancos 1 y 4 suministran aceite a una sola biela cada uno, los bancos 2 y 3 suministran aceite a dos bielas cada uno. Esto produce dos variaciones de presión de aceite por cada giro en las bancadas 2 y 3 afectando la lubricación tanto en cigüeñal como en las bielas. 3- Todos estos motores Diesel Common Rail tienen un par elevado a bajas RPM, donde: A- la bomba de aceite tiene un caudal moderado. B- En algunos casos la bomba de aceite esta comandada por el PCM, teniendo dos estados baja presión para cargas bajas y alta presión para cargas altas. En ambos casos (A o B) existe un retraso entre que aplicamos la carga y la bomba cambia el aporte de aceite, lo cual parece crucial a la longevidad de estos motores. De esta forma, si el motor ya ha recorrido más de 100.000 kilómetros y no fuimos muy cuidadosos con los cambios de aceite, es muy probable que tengamos algún problema aquí. 4- Por varios motivos, pero principalmente por economía de combustible, los fabricantes optan por aceites muy finos, lo que no ayuda a este problema, mas aun cuando las condiciones de temperatura y carga son altas. En definitiva, este problema que vemos en el F33A-FTV de 700 Nm es igual de habitual en el Lion 3.0 TDV6 de 600 Nm del grupo Ford y en menor medida en el 3.0 TDV6 del grupo VAG.
Bond a lubricant to all the metal parts in an engine to reduce the temperature and wear. Wear typically is reduced by 50~90% which increases lifespan by 2~10x. Piston/bore contact is eliminated as a boundary lubricant is always present. #XcelPlus
100% genuine filters etc(toyota genuine) but i use castrol magnatec diesel 15/40 oil and in 10 years have never had an issue. When i pulled the sump off and replaced the big end bearings i put a new oil filter on after 1000km but then changed both after another 4000. People need to understand you have to maintain your vehicle
@@davidgoliath5901 bro im just having a laugh. Ive been putting heavier oil in my LS1 for years and so has every other bloke with half an idea of whats going on with bearing clearance and heat stress. Theres no need to go to chemists and make a whole series about this shit. Old mate thinks hes a genius, its not hard or groundbreaking work.
I have the same question. Why not the penrite c2 0w-30, since it is still a 30 weighted oil. The 0 i believe wouldn't matter much if there is no winter season in the country.
120 Prado 1KD ftv 2008 diesel tubo? I like to use the Toyota oil 5w 30 as recommended be Toyota, in Australia I see a lot of people like to use Penrite 10w 40, 10w 50, etc and other oils. I am under the understanding the 10w 40 and 10w 50 oils etc use more fuel and possibly put more load on the engine. Is this so? And is that bad for the engine? Or would the 10w 40, 10w 50 be better for cooling engine etc if toweing boat have roof racks bullbar. I also change my oil at 5000k regardless. Cheers.
@@DallasD2.0 no worries The 1KD is an evolution of the 1KZ which came out in 1993. The 1KZ (like most dieselsnof this era) specified a 15W-40 diesel oil. The only reason the 1KD moved to a 5W-30 was for improved fuel economy. But a 15W-40 diesel oil will provide better engine protection and will likely also be cheaper than a 5W-30.
Lake Spped Jr. from Total Seal rings. He is now in the process of oil analysis on his daughters new Toyota, which runs a 0/8. This will be interesting, as Toyota have had many engine rebuilds in the past as a major factory recall. (State's) As he says he is about the science not speculation.
im confused , @6:20 you said its "a cooling issue in piston skirting, and has nothing to do with anything else" and then say higher grade/thicker oil will help with this because it last longer. i think these are 2 different things , yes higher grade oil can last longer in high heat. but it doesnt help with cooling, and i would expect thinner oil to better cool the engine. maybe the answer is to use thin oil but change more often, every 5000kms before it degrades, also i saw only 0w-20 is C5 type oil , other oils are C2 . Also C5 has TBN>6.0 reserved alkalinity to protect engine against corrosion, C2 oil has NIL TBN. the risk of using C2 here is that it will have higher acidity after some usage and can eat away components including bearings.Im not an expert,im just comparing data sheets
You don’t need to reply to me but i was just talking about a 32 year old 1hdt engine. I have fitted a big front mount intercooler and 3 inch exhaust(with muffler) and has been the best vehicle i have owned. But my HJ45 was good with the powerful H (3.6 liter engine) should not have sold it 12 years ago
Changing oil every 5000ks or 7500ks is a good idea. As some diesel engines develop an issue called over fueling when a vehicle is loaded up or overloaded. The ECU pumps up the fuel rate to increase the power and the unburnt diesel wash the bour and bypass the rings and ends up in the oil sump. This dilutes the oil to be like water.
Does this logic of running higher grade oil applay older 100 series 4.8L V8 2UZ-FE model? I live in Texas and my rig has 220K miles. I have beem using high milage mobile one 5W-30 at every 3000 miles interval.
Oil specs may differ from summer or winter in North America. Here in Australia, 15w 40 is the norm. Australia does get cold in some areas, but the temperature is mostly above the minimum rated temperature of -7C. Changing oil at 3,000 miles or 5,000 klm is the secret. These long service intervals are engine killers. A great source of oil information is Lake Speed Jr. from the YT channel "The Oil Geek." Cheers
@ Valvoline I mean sure. If you think that. Is it Ck-4 rated? It’s more about the rating over the brand to be honest. I thrash my 200 like thrash it. Never had an issue and sent oil analysis at. 10,000km intervals living in Western Australia. Comes back saying it will last another 5000km but I always change at 10,000km extra piece of mind. Each to their own I guess.
Use the exact oil that the manufacturer recommended, remember viscosity is only one spec of many in any oil so the correct viscosity does not at all mean it’s the correct oil.
Did you watch part one? Engines are failing because Toyota is putting a 0W-20 oil in from factory and it’s not handling it under load. Manufacturers only recommend that because they have to hit government mandated emissions targets from factory
Yeah, its also not something worth doing to chase parasitic loss efficiency increases. I mean, come on. This is a stressed motor. High output. Low displacement. High intake temps. Seriously reduced main bearing surface areas. Australian conditions and towing a van.
You don't have to be a mechanic to understand what these guys are saying, if you do some homework on workload, weight, heat and oil it's not hard to understand what their talking about. Thanks Guys good work
If a manufacturer states 0w20, 0w30 as preferred options or C2 I'll generally stick to a C3 5w30 Although there's some C2/C3 hybrid 0w30's that actually have that minimum HTHS of 3.5cst to warrant the C3 rating additionally. I'd always go a C3 in a C2 spec engine because we all know C2 is purely for emissions, fuel economy & meeting it's claimed fuel efficiency otherwise C2 under heavy conditions will break down far sooner than a C3 Both are mid saps oil
To be honest with the amount of money these things cost and then to spend a shit tonne more money on them to tow I feel like I should just sell the 300 and buy a Chevy 2500 and be done with it , 100k+ for the cruiser and an easy 20k+ on mods to get it where it has to be and that’s not including all the just autos engine work (I love your work btw!) I’m just saying it all adds up in the end
Gents i think it's important to clarify whether the blown engines are tuned. I imagine if they're in your shop and not Toyota then I can only assume they are.
I can assure you not a single mine site in the country will run 0W20 or XW30 in their fleet cars. They'll all be getting the same bloody 15W40 Delvac that all the HD diesels get.
Castrol makes an oil in this class that is suitable for DPF and TWC (3.way. catalyst) with mid saps and a normal HT/HS (high temp/high shear) viscosity 3.5cP . called CASTROL EDGE 5w40 M . It's a ACEA C3 API SN oil. Only available in 20lt containers according to their Australia website. It also meets A3/B4 that are disgned for direct injection diesel engines. Toyota suggests to use either ACEA C2 or C5 The only difference between C2 And C3 it the HT/HS viscosity. C3 has a normal 3.5cP and C2 has a lower 2.9cP . The normal viscosity is better as a protective oil the lower is better as a fuel economy oil. I know what oil i would be using. It would has a C3 or SN on the bottle.
The Castrol oil can't meet both ACEA C3 and ACEA A3/B4 as those two categories are mutually exclusive on chemical limits alone. The sulphated ash limit for ACEA C3 is up to 0.8%, whereas the limit for ACEA A3/B4 is from 1.0% up to 1.6%, both using the ASTM D874 test method. You are correct though that the only differences between ACEA C2 and ACEA C3 are the HT/HS viscosity being above 2.9 cP and 3.5 cP respectively using the CEC L-36-90 test method, and a fuel economy improvement requirement of above 2.5% and 1.0% (not applicable to xW-40 grades) respectively using the CEC L-54-96 test method. It wouldn't be the first time a manufacturer has said "suitable for use where XYZ is recommended by the manufacturer" which is a potentially misleading way of saying that we reckon the oil will be fine for this standard, but we haven't actually tested it - they normally do this with API CF because the testing equipment hasn't been around for over 15 years now so there's no way it can be independently verified.
@@cameronwood1994 The only thing that I'll add is that whilst C3 oils started out as mid saps, Most these days are low saps, For example Shell Helix ultra 5W30 C3 is a low saps oil. Sadly they don't have a 5w40 C3... only a 5W40 A3/B4....
A3/b4 oil isn't suitable for dpf but what I said is correct as the new c3/sn 5w40 M is suitable in vehicles that are already using A3/B4 , as it's has the same level of protection from ht/hs of 3.5. meaning normal not low viscosity and is mid saps. I would not be using A3/B4 in a vehicle with a DPF. But you can use a very much equal oil c3/ Sn 5w40 M as it is good for use in DPF and Catylsts exhaust vehicles . The new oil is backwards compatible and exceeds all the other requirements
@@jc7654 I wouldn't use an ACEA C3 oil in an older vehicle as low SAPS oils aren't ideal for old technology engines but certainly in a more modern design I would. None of my vehicles permit an ACEA Cx oil, and I've checked with the manufacturers.
Piston cooling just another job for that poorly specked oil. Squirters have been around for some time however, How much does pulling that heat out of the pistons contribute to the oil degradation over time?
I would just do an oil change every 5000kms to reduce the risk of engine damage irrespective of the stock oil weight. Oil is cheap, engine is expensive
Sensible non biased information well presented, it will be interesting to see the results of the oil tests, however I tend to agree that if you turn these vehicles into the type of machines that have to deal with high loads, harsh conditions and peak performance demand the oil and change frequency needs to be looked at with accurate data based on tests under these conditions which i am afraid may be out of most dealers capabilities. great work guys.
There was never a "1984 Triton", only Mitsubishi L200 or Forte, Chrysler D50 or Ram D50. Correct oil for all the petrols was 30/40 and Shell Rimula for the diesel's.
Last service in my 2017 fortuner mytechnition recommended 5_40. I though that made a lot of sense. Last time I was in NT mid summer 48 centigrade. Glad we're on same page
Short trips in a car are really hard on the oil. Again change it every 5000 km. Modern engines are built with tight tolerances, short trips will degrade oil quickly and can lead to clogged screes and passages within the engine. You really aren't going to save money by extending the oil drain interval, the money you save will just be spent on repairs that could have been avoided if you had changed the oil consistently at 5000 km..
The soccer mum doing 20k trips a day should be doing their oil even more regularly. Engines not getting to operating temperature and using synthetic and not mineral oils is a big factor in engine degredation
Thank you for the information. Looking forward to your oil test results. Can you please stand still in front of the camera as it feels like I’m traveling across the Tasman🤮
Toyota have really gone down the shit shoot, my 2015 SR5 was plagued with issues, Traded it after three years for an Isuzu, 200,000 km later not a single problem
@@Andonella_Travels not all day every day, if you want that go buy a truck, the odd weekend towing the boat yes, but constantly? No. the manual states if loads are severe the oil grade should be changed… litteraly says it in the manual🥴
Its not just Toyota although i run hpr diesel 10w40 in my 200 and D4D Prado and enviro+ 10w40 in my Subaru Outback diesel ive done 220,000 in it so far and im seeing others in Australia running this oil with over 400,000 on them not one issue but in Europe they die just over 100,000 they use that crap 0w10 oils motor killer oil
5K subscribers. Seriously you guys are putting more work in than most! 300 owners are lucky to have JA!!
They are Toyota exclusive, Toyota backed.
Best way to void your warranty is fit aftermarket larger wheels/tyres and everything else in the TJM catalogue. Toyota (and all other OEM's) love rejecting claims because peanut beard strokers have overloaded their vehicles or put non-standard wheels sizes on their cars.
Tip 1: run the oil the dealer uses or that is recommended by the book. that's both weight and class (ACEA / SAE or other specifications)
Tip 2 : get your vehicle serviced on time at a qualified mechanic (doesn't need to be an OEM dealer, just licensed) to ensure your warranty stays valid
Tip 3: Don't mod the car with junk from the TJM catalogue that's not from the OEM until the warranty expires if you want to be sure you'll be looked after.
Tip 4: any aftermarket shop that says they can do a GVM/towing upgrade is smoking crack. if stuff goes wrong they'll forget they know you as will the OEM. Just wait until you get hit at the weigh bridge and told to leave your aluminium shitter on the side of the road.
Tip 4: realise an onsite cabin is far cheaper than a caravan and for the odd night you're not at a park, pitch a tent or use a swag.
Wild that you are investing in this. Shows a pretty incredible commitment, I love it.
Oil sampling,learning and analysing the data is key
@@SR-yp3eg this is what we are doing atm but will take some time
But oil is actually cheap to replace. 5000-7500kms/6 months change interval is not really expensive and can easily be DIY
You should turn off the background music so people with hearing impairment can hear you.
Turn on the subtitles mate
Ever heard of closed captions
What
THIS!!!!
@@JustAutosMechanicaldon’t worry about it, there is ai subtitles on the video
Good advice. I have been using 5W40 for a long time now in my VDJ76R
I have used a 15w40 oil in my 92 1hdt 80 series for the last 10 years has 386000 on the clock has no blowby(taking oil cap off while running) cap does not move plus no oil burning. Any opinion on that. I am a mechanic and checked but replaced big end bearings about 8 years ago but i change oil and filter at between 4-5000km. Oil doesn’t start to go black until around 2000km. I cannot afford a 200 or 300 series so i maintain my 80. Maintanence is the key to longevity
common sense
God they talk some shit ...I do 7000 oil every 14000 filter..
15-40 in my 1HD-FTE Ute also mate, still clear oil at 5000km on the dipstick, but that engine does have a much bigger filter than every Tojo motor since, and has a capacity of 12.4L 😏
It’s about time someone done this! Great job 👍
That is amazing that Toyota recommends a 0W-20 for a diesel.
Here in the great white north, diesels routinely use 5W-40 or heavier. I have never seen a diesel using 0W-20 engine oil in Canada.
Personally I think it a receipt for disaster.
you are 100% correct. 0W oil is for emissions testing only.
exactly! This is only environment issue
@@marekbodzon6440yes. It’s a shame we don’t have something in the environment like trees that take pollutants out of the atmosphere and emit fresh clean air. Then we could all be breathing the correct O2 to stay healthy and happy. 😁🍺
5K oil change intervals is what the toyota manual calls for here in Saudi Arabia for the diesel variant, 2500Km for severe service.
Is that for the new LC300 or LC200?
We just got a 2 yr service done at a Toyota dealership here in NZ and the they used 0w-30.
In my 2017 holden colorado rg I'm using recomended 5w30 but for caravan towing in queensland I think and I agree with you mate to switch to 5w40 just for summer.You have mentioned how to make oil better a lot of people in my old country(poland) are using liqui molly "ceratec" in oil.I did use before in my previous diesel car -isuzu d max "roil platinum"also nano ceramics which from unknown reason was removed from market.When I addet it do diff oil I instantly felt bit more power.At this moment I have in my engine oil american SMT2. To the fuel I use additive "responsive" australian made(also nano ceramics) and in fuel lane I fitted "fuel mate" tin catalyst also made in australia and I'm very impressed especially when towing about 2 Tons and consuming about 13L/100k maintaining constant speed 100k/h cheers
Thank you so much for this Info. I found this really informative.
I really think it would be beneficial to run at least the 5w30 all the time anywhere in Australia - it can only be better for the engine long term!😊
As cheap insurance why not just run the 5-40 it will hold up much better to our Aussie weather.
Matty Smith your a legend mate! Love your attention to detail such an informative vid mate. I agree strongly with 5k service intervals and i run a 10w40 in my hilux. Its pushin 200hp with 34" tires and oil changed every 5k.... she has 437,000km on her and still purring👌 my next build matt smith you will be the only one working on it! Love ya work mate
Thanks mate
I noticed second service onwards, Morningside Toyota have been putting 0W30 in mine. Mid service, ie, 5,000km, I've been putting in 5W30. I guess you should make it clear to everyone that the oil should be the correct C rating synthetic. Keep up the good work.
The 0W30 will probably be a C3 oil (check your receipt)
The correct "C" rating is important, but it is also understand what the C rating actually stands for.
For example C5 /C6 is what Toyota uses in the 0W20, whereas the 0W30 would be a C3
The main difference is the HTHS rating.
The higher the number the better protected the engine, but also the higher the parasitic losses due to fluid resistance (imagine turning a spoon in a cup of water versus a spoon in a cup of honey for an extreme polar opposite example of it)
C5 /6 has a HTHS of a minimum of 2.6
C3 has a HTHS of a minimum of 3.5
Both are LOW SAPS oils (the back of the bottle will tell you)
Summed up under city driving using a C3 will yield slightly worse fuel economy BUT overall your engine will be better protected.
@@notsureyouI think you meant C2. 0W30 or 5W30 should be C2. Which is the one recommended in the Toyota manual.
@@wss5203no issue using C3 instead of C2
C2 is the same as C3, just C2 has a lower HTHS viscosity which improves fuel economy at the expense of engine wear.
C3 is a better choice for engine protection
@@wss5203 This is one area that is a bit confusing.
What I mean is that ORIGINALLY a C2 oil had a HTHS of a minimum of 2.9
And a C3 oil has a HTHS minimum of 3.5
Yet there are oils that are C2/C3 (meet both specs)
Which doesn't make any sense....
Since they each have a different minimum HTHS spec (which seems to be the only difference between them).
Thank you for the clarification.
Been working with the guys at Just Autos
Thanks Matt it’s great to hear what you’re doing and being part of these testing programs.
@@toftytoft8373 couldn’t ask for a better combo mate. Thank you again
If you've got a DPF, go for C3 (better HTHS) over C2, and pick an oil that meets, or even better, is licensed by some of the best standards ie. VW 504/507, MB 229.51/.52 and Porsche C30.
Shell Ultra ECT 0w30 and the Mobil1 are very good. Those OEM specs from VW and MB and Porsche are some of the toughest oil specs. Shell is a very conservative company, so they don't claim them unless they really have done all the hard work making sure they reach the standards. Some of the Penrite C3 etc are probably ok but dont have the GTL base stock. Have a look at oil forums on the web if you're really interested eg BITOG forum have very helpful members with a wealth of knowledge. Before you jnow it you'll be doing used oil analyses
love your work mate great video very knowledgeable and informative....I would say that changing your engine oil every 5k is excessive even under high load conditions, if you are using a high quality engine oil of the correct specification and viscosity the oil should harness contaminants whilst at the same time retaining its additive chemistry over 10k without a problem... i agree that 0w20 in the 300 is ridiculous and all about emissions and less about engine protection and performance, but to your point i would think the sump capacity would be a major contributing factor to the premature oil degradation, I'm baffled why the oil capacity for that engine is any less than 8-10Litres. As you said heat it the biggest factor here essentially
Great information 🙌🏽
Nearly ordered a 300 a few months back, ended up ordering a Dual cab Isuzu NPS 4x4. With weights I need to tow and carrying capacity can’t beat it… although the trade offs will be comfort and handling to name a few 😂
Hi, we have just purchased a 2024 - 250 Prado with the 2.8 lt 48 volt assisted system. Have about 800km on the clock and are planning to tow our 3000kg caravan on a trip. Would you recommend we run a heavier weight oil from day one, providing warranty is not compromised. And what weight and brand of oil, is your recommendation? Cheers Frank
I have mine serviced at the Toyota dealer who use Castrol 0w30 Professional ,and not 0W20 . I also have it serviced every 5000k regardless of my driving habits. I asked why they use 0w30 and they pretty much confirmed your comments. They also said they recommend 0W30 because I get it changed every 5000. If I just done normal service interval (10k) they would probably go a little higher weight.
My now retired boss ,Col Mann , an absolute unspoken genius ,worked with PM Oils in brisbane to formulate an oil suitable for most applications from heavy road transport , agriculture , and everyday 4wd diesel usage , They came up a single grade 30 w oil ,which we used in every application , teflon free , wether ,deutz and particularly all the air cooled range where oil cooling is paramount , to cat ,john deere ,new holland , signature cummins , 60 series detroit as well as the 2stroke range, mack with mil spec 2104c , and all the 4wd makes , amazing results ,but once again service intervals critical, as well as filter choice , sadly manufactures in the interest of service costs and manufacturing costs,and enviornmentl concerns ,(disposal) have reduced sump capacity to the point of being ridiculous , my mack had an esi package , 60 litres of oil ,my bmws mostly are 6.5litres and oil temperature is critical for engine life .
Well Appreciation for the information
Subaru also use 0w20, do you think when motor gets higher kms eg over 100,000, would you switch to 5w30?
What about the turbo? Does it require light oil, 0w20? Would the heavy oil 5w40 will damage the turbo?
I change my oil every 5000 km as well. It is easy to keep track of and is good for the engine.
Definitely don't go with the manufacturers oil service intervals. They want the vehicle to die so you have to buy another.
Agreed. 5000kms/6 months is not really expensive and I always DIY in between dealership service
Just a question, is there any place in Australia that has 0 degrees min temp and 20 degrees max temp every day?
I live in a climate where it can be 0 degrees in winter and up to 45 degrees in summer
I think ur rite on the money
5W-30 or 5W-40 C3 oil is perfect for the LC300.
C3 is the most important bit!
Yet it was never spelled out in the user manual. The manual only stated 0w20 C5 or 0w30 C2. So I ponder
So if you stick with 0-20 and are using the 300 outside factory parameters I,e pulling big vans, and trailers what would the recommended service intervals be ?
We dont recommend 0w20. Should at least be going as per manual where it states 5w30
Just to be safe ive thrown in my td42's old 20w50 and filled it an extra litre to ensure its kept cool. I can hear the difference already very pleased
Probably because your crank is now submerged 🤦🏻♂️ Never overfill an engine with oil
Which spec and brand of oil do you recommend for high temperatures for the F33A Engine ?
This used to be common sense stuff. The newer Toyotas in the UK are 0w16 or 20 for most models. I've been using 5w40 in the wife's Toyota (ow20 recommended) for the past 10 years as the 900cc engine gets thrashed up hills on her daily commute. Dad stuck with 5w30 or 40 depending on how he used the cars. As you say, higher the typical engine rpm and therefore temps, use the more viscous or "heavier" oil. No issues with cranking the engine, even at low temps like now.
What about oil degradation? And will a 5w40 oil last 10,000km service intervals whilst towing some of the time?
Depends on the oil composition. Fully synthetic can. But oil interval change of 5Tkm is typically the norm. Oil is cheap, engine rebuild aint.
It won't last any longer because the additive package will deplete just as quickly, but it will have a higher film strength so less likely to pick up a bearing.
The 2 problems with 0W20 are:
It's very thin and the HTHS (High Temperature High Shear) rating
HTHS summed up is:
The lower the number, the better for ZERO load fuel economy,
The higher the number, the better the engine will be protected.
Imagine turning a wooden spoon in a cup of water, and then turning a spoon in a cup of honey (extreme ends of the spectrum), in the cup of honey there is more resistance (rotational FRICTION)
BUT if you are rubbing your finger tip and the tip of your thumb together, the honey will provide the best protection against WEAR.
So the 0W20 is a C5/C6 oil which has a HTHS of a minimum of 2.6 (2.6-2.9)
Whereas
A 5W30 C3 has a HTHS of a minimum 3.5 (you can get 0w30 C2/C3 engine oils)
The C3 component not only references the HTHS but also that it can be used in an engine with a diesel particulate filter (if in doubt read the information of the back of the oil container),
Since modern C3 oils are pretty much all "LOW SAPS" (but again read the back of the bottle)
Whereas a A3B4 which also has a HTHS of a minimum of 3.5 CANNOT due to being a "mid saps" oil
From memory as long as the owners manual says that a specific oil can be used in a car, the manufacturer can't deny any claims (if you are being honest with service history etc).
@@notsureyou great write up mate
Would a oil cooler for engine oil help?
Hi , I live in newzealand, I’m a qualified mechanic and drive a 2021 Hilux, I use Fuchs 0w30 synthetic, is this ok, we also on occasion tow a jayco silverline outback which is around 2.8 ton.
The thing with new gen Toyota EGR systems is the narrow galleries built into the rocker covers. Skimping on an oil change, or using a grade heavier has led to serious sludging in the UR/GR eight and six cylinder Toyota engines in the past (particularly the GR six pots)
I would be wary of this in the new hot valley V6 motors, and would suggest an illegal, but probably worthwhile EGR deletion be evaluated.
Using a higher viscosity oil won’t clog anything
Well said, the only time engines really have a problem is when people put a mono grade oil in an engine not designed for it.
What do I mean by this putting a straight SAE 50 w oil in a modern engine will damage it.
Changing from a zero weight to a five weight is not gonna make any difference for engine damage but it will make a difference for protecting it against wear and tear and hot environment .
Great video keep up your awesome work .
@@overland_adventure_nz thanks for your input
Coll Mann worked with PM Oils to develop a multi purpose oil ,which was a single grade 30w oil , no teflon synthetic rubbish , worked well on every application for 20 plus years , synthetic additives are the first to fail in an oil , despite being promoted as the opposite , any thing below a 15w/40 in australia is a waste of time.
@ totally correct with older vehicles, she got trained for a year all about oils oil types and engine useful when I was building a racing motorcycle engines.
But cannot remember everything because of our severe Brain Injury I had five years ago approximately.
The irony is in some countries if they double refine a mineral oil, it’s classified as a full synthetic?
I’ve always liked high-quality minerals, some mineral oils are better than others for engine lubrication as a different oil sources from around the world.
What about a new 79??
What are your thoughts on genuine coolant versus Aftermarket (major brand... not something from the $2 store)?
And thoughts on "water wetter" products either in "everyday cars" or in the Land cruiser 300 etc.
Toyota coolant is very good stuff. I would use it and don’t use water wetter
@@YZJB When I had it changed a couple years ago I went with Nulon,
But I've never tried "water wetter"
Edge 10w60 in a hot climate?
10000km service is to long i thought without watching this video. I have gr yaris and gr 300. Did my own oil change at 1000kms toyota didn't say it needed it. Did it anyway, using genuine oil and filter. And then i do 5000km oil/filter change. Then the 10000km i let toyota do it for the log book. My cars before that was a gu patrol and a r34 skyline, oil change every 5000kms and never had a problem with the engine for years. Only like clutchs and turbos because i beat on them 😅 i live in qld and just decided to do 5w40 today on the 300 because the missus has been using it alot onnthe highway. And noticed it chews the 0w20. Dip stick was showing half way between the dots. That was after 5000kms of driving and had 50ml or more of oil in the catch can and more water from the condensation. Maybe winter time ill do 5w30, hot qld weather 5w40. I dont mind, i over think and like to do do things myself. Im wanting to make custom bonnet vents of the 300 to suck the hot air away from the turbos. Done it on my r34 skyline, my patrol, gr yaris. But just cant find something for the 300
when the 1VD-FTV V8 came out the 6 Cylinder owners said it was garbage. new cruisers are always more comfortable, faster and cheaper to run than the old ones.
Interested if you believe this is the same on the 2.8 70 series which obviously get run hard but is delivered with 0-20w. Great content mate.
@@Steveo-Fisher same mate
can you belive the 2.8 4 cylinder has a larger oil capacity than the 300. theres your problem
@@ulehuleh would need to check, ive got a 78 so bigger pan than other 1GD motors.
@@Steveo-Fisher Hilux 7.5 litres
300 6.5 litres
LandCruiser 70 2.8 7.8 litres
@@ulehulehhmmm, 1VD in 70 series 9.5L, 1HD-FTE 12.4L. Volume of oil likely helps with longevity
What oil do you think we need in our 79 series v8 2017 upgraded gvm 4000kg we do a lot of towing
@@douglasraymond6883 5w - 40 what are you using now ?
15w50 or 15w40
@@JustAutosMechanical serviced by Toyota 0-30
i use 0-W20 in my Lexus Hybrid since day 1 and it has now 325000 on it ! oil change every 10000
Would love a 1 hdfte in the 80😂 but too expensive unless i win lotto. Great vid and very informative for people but, great work!!
I have been saying this before the LC300 was released - even 0w20 in the hybrid small car range is not optimal a good quality 5w30 on a well controlled service schedule is optimal in my opinion.
I run 0w40 castroll in 79 v8 400hps 4 tonne towes 2.7 tonne boat no dramma yet would you recomend a different oil or just keep using it
@@stuartwithwings36 seems to be working mate as long as ya go easy on it until it warms up
Can I use fully synthetic 5w40 in a 120 Prado V6 (1GR-FE) 20 years old almost 300k instead of the recommended 10w30 in your opinion?
Of course you can, in fact do it because that's a high milage car, your car will thank you
What does your owners manual say can be used in your car?
Absolutely you can. The 1GR can even run a 20W-50 in it if you really wanted.
5W-40 would be perfect
Hola . Muy agradecido de que se tome el tiempo y comparta sus recomendaciones con todos nosotros. Siempre muy agradecido. En esta ocasión quiero compartir, quizás arrojar un poco más de luz sobre este problema al que se refiere. Esto es "La lubricación o los problemas de lubricación que presenta el F33A-FTV", no muy distintos al de la mayoría de todos los V6 Diesel. Son cuatro los inconvenientes que surgen desde la propia concepción de un V6 Diesel. Se trata de motores compactos con bloques cortos y por ende cigüeñales cortos.
1- Esto lleva a que el ancho de apoyo de los cojinetes de bancada y de biela resulten demasiado angostos, determinando una superficie apoyo deficiente en relación a las cargas a las que suelen desarrollar estos motores. Acá se puede comparar tamaños de cojinetes de cigueñales que no se rompen con los tamaños típicos de los V6 Diesel.
2- ¿Por qué se presenta el problema de lubricación en la zona media del cigüeñal? Mientras que los bancos 1 y 4 suministran aceite a una sola biela cada uno, los bancos 2 y 3 suministran aceite a dos bielas cada uno. Esto produce dos variaciones de presión de aceite por cada giro en las bancadas 2 y 3 afectando la lubricación tanto en cigüeñal como en las bielas.
3- Todos estos motores Diesel Common Rail tienen un par elevado a bajas RPM, donde: A- la bomba de aceite tiene un caudal moderado. B- En algunos casos la bomba de aceite esta comandada por el PCM, teniendo dos estados baja presión para cargas bajas y alta presión para cargas altas. En ambos casos (A o B) existe un retraso entre que aplicamos la carga y la bomba cambia el aporte de aceite, lo cual parece crucial a la longevidad de estos motores. De esta forma, si el motor ya ha recorrido más de 100.000 kilómetros y no fuimos muy cuidadosos con los cambios de aceite, es muy probable que tengamos algún problema aquí.
4- Por varios motivos, pero principalmente por economía de combustible, los fabricantes optan por aceites muy finos, lo que no ayuda a este problema, mas aun cuando las condiciones de temperatura y carga son altas.
En definitiva, este problema que vemos en el F33A-FTV de 700 Nm es igual de habitual en el Lion 3.0 TDV6 de 600 Nm del grupo Ford y en menor medida en el 3.0 TDV6 del grupo VAG.
Bond a lubricant to all the metal parts in an engine to reduce the temperature and wear.
Wear typically is reduced by 50~90% which increases lifespan by 2~10x.
Piston/bore contact is eliminated as a boundary lubricant is always present.
#XcelPlus
100% genuine filters etc(toyota genuine) but i use castrol magnatec diesel 15/40 oil and in 10 years have never had an issue. When i pulled the sump off and replaced the big end bearings i put a new oil filter on after 1000km but then changed both after another 4000. People need to understand you have to maintain your vehicle
Why listen to Toyota when i can listen to you! Wow thankyou heading to Aldi to get 75w90 now xx
😂😂😂
@@davidgoliath5901 bro im just having a laugh. Ive been putting heavier oil in my LS1 for years and so has every other bloke with half an idea of whats going on with bearing clearance and heat stress. Theres no need to go to chemists and make a whole series about this shit. Old mate thinks hes a genius, its not hard or groundbreaking work.
@@lukescido9265tall poppy syndrome or are you just special?
Yeah, it's not like Toyota aren't in court right now for dishing out half cooked diesels.
Whats your thoughts on penrite c2 0w30 on dpf 200series and doing 5k intervals
We recommend 5w-30 or 5w-40 as stated in video
Why not 0w30? @@JustAutosMechanical
I have the same question. Why not the penrite c2 0w-30, since it is still a 30 weighted oil. The 0 i believe wouldn't matter much if there is no winter season in the country.
120 Prado 1KD ftv 2008 diesel tubo? I like to use the Toyota oil 5w 30 as recommended be Toyota, in Australia I see a lot of people like to use Penrite 10w 40, 10w 50, etc and other oils. I am under the understanding the 10w 40 and 10w 50 oils etc use more fuel and possibly put more load on the engine. Is this so? And is that bad for the engine? Or would the 10w 40, 10w 50 be better for cooling engine etc if toweing boat have roof racks bullbar. I also change my oil at 5000k regardless. Cheers.
I’d use a 15W-40 CK-4 diesel oil in a 1KD. Definitely wouldn’t use a 5W-30
@@YZJB thank you for your reply, could you explain why? Cheers.
@@DallasD2.0 no worries
The 1KD is an evolution of the 1KZ which came out in 1993.
The 1KZ (like most dieselsnof this era) specified a 15W-40 diesel oil. The only reason the 1KD moved to a 5W-30 was for improved fuel economy. But a 15W-40 diesel oil will provide better engine protection and will likely also be cheaper than a 5W-30.
@@YZJB cheers for that. 🙂
Lake Spped Jr. from Total Seal rings. He is now in the process of oil analysis on his daughters new Toyota, which runs a 0/8. This will be interesting, as Toyota have had many engine rebuilds in the past as a major factory recall. (State's) As he says he is about the science not speculation.
I have a Hyundai i30, 2009, what oil do I need?
@@DeepDrinks would look at ya handbook mate
canola oil, woolies or coles should be able to help 🤣
They don't use oil, sealed for life engines utilising self lubricating bearings
Avocado should be fine
Gutter oil, very popular in China.
im confused , @6:20 you said its "a cooling issue in piston skirting, and has nothing to do with anything else" and then say higher grade/thicker oil will help with this because it last longer. i think these are 2 different things , yes higher grade oil can last longer in high heat. but it doesnt help with cooling, and i would expect thinner oil to better cool the engine.
maybe the answer is to use thin oil but change more often, every 5000kms before it degrades, also i saw only 0w-20 is C5 type oil , other oils are C2 . Also C5 has TBN>6.0 reserved alkalinity to protect engine against corrosion, C2 oil has NIL TBN. the risk of using C2 here is that it will have higher acidity after some usage and can eat away components including bearings.Im not an expert,im just comparing data sheets
You don’t need to reply to me but i was just talking about a 32 year old 1hdt engine. I have fitted a big front mount intercooler and 3 inch exhaust(with muffler) and has been the best vehicle i have owned. But my HJ45 was good with the powerful H (3.6 liter engine) should not have sold it 12 years ago
I just run 15/40....north Queensland
Still the best out there fellas 🤙
@@CDI.Motorsport thanks mate
Changing oil every 5000ks or 7500ks is a good idea. As some diesel engines develop an issue called over fueling when a vehicle is loaded up or overloaded. The ECU pumps up the fuel rate to increase the power and the unburnt diesel wash the bour and bypass the rings and ends up in the oil sump. This dilutes the oil to be like water.
Check out "The Motor Oil Geek". He does oil by chemistry, and is probably the best source of motor oil data available.
Lake Speed Jr. is a qualified tribologist - an (oil professor) who knows his sh!t - very clever bloke!
So glad I bout a f150 instead… Toyota while still good is certainly not the same Toyota from 20yrs ago.
The service interval is the MINIMUM that is required for you to be able to do a warranty claim.
NOT what is the best for long term ownership....
Does this logic of running higher grade oil applay older 100 series 4.8L V8 2UZ-FE model? I live in Texas and my rig has 220K miles. I have beem using high milage mobile one 5W-30 at every 3000 miles interval.
@@panchampatel1 sure would
Oil specs may differ from summer or winter in North America. Here in Australia, 15w 40 is the norm. Australia does get cold in some areas, but the temperature is mostly above the minimum rated temperature of -7C. Changing oil at 3,000 miles or 5,000 klm is the secret. These long service intervals are engine killers. A great source of oil information is Lake Speed Jr. from the YT channel "The Oil Geek." Cheers
Lake Speed Jr is the guru when it comes to oil. 👍👍
5w-40 ck-4 oil mate. Use it in a tuned 200 series.. Mobil 1 best oil on the market. Never had a problem.
We use Valvoline at work and we haven’t had an issue so does that make it the best oil on the market?
@ Valvoline I mean sure. If you think that. Is it Ck-4 rated? It’s more about the rating over the brand to be honest. I thrash my 200 like thrash it. Never had an issue and sent oil analysis at. 10,000km intervals living in Western Australia. Comes back saying it will last another 5000km but I always change at 10,000km extra piece of mind. Each to their own I guess.
@ not getting much additional peace of mind by doing the normal service intervals
@ like I said I thrash it and I’ve had it since new. 380,000km tuned 200. Stick with ya workshop Valvoline champ
@@Dronefishha considering its ck-4 rated yeah I think I will 😂
Use the exact oil that the manufacturer recommended, remember viscosity is only one spec of many in any oil so the correct viscosity does not at all mean it’s the correct oil.
Did you watch part one? Engines are failing because Toyota is putting a 0W-20 oil in from factory and it’s not handling it under load. Manufacturers only recommend that because they have to hit government mandated emissions targets from factory
Yeah, its also not something worth doing to chase parasitic loss efficiency increases. I mean, come on. This is a stressed motor. High output. Low displacement. High intake temps. Seriously reduced main bearing surface areas. Australian conditions and towing a van.
You don't have to be a mechanic to understand what these guys are saying, if you do some homework on workload, weight, heat and oil it's not hard to understand what their talking about. Thanks Guys good work
Half the recommended service interval for my cars.
If a manufacturer states 0w20, 0w30 as preferred options or C2
I'll generally stick to a C3 5w30
Although there's some C2/C3 hybrid 0w30's that actually have that minimum HTHS of 3.5cst to warrant the C3 rating additionally. I'd always go a C3 in a C2 spec engine because we all know C2 is purely for emissions, fuel economy & meeting it's claimed fuel efficiency otherwise C2 under heavy conditions will break down far sooner than a C3
Both are mid saps oil
Both are LOW SAPS oils (they might have started out years ago as mid saps, but these days most if not all are low saps).
100% agree. C3 and C2 are the same, except C2 has a lower HTHS viscosity to improve fuel economy.
C3 offers better engine protection
@@YZJB Strangely there is some oil that claims to meet both the C2 AND C3 spec...
Which doesn't make any sense.
To be honest with the amount of money these things cost and then to spend a shit tonne more money on them to tow I feel like I should just sell the 300 and buy a Chevy 2500 and be done with it , 100k+ for the cruiser and an easy 20k+ on mods to get it where it has to be and that’s not including all the just autos engine work (I love your work btw!) I’m just saying it all adds up in the end
Yeah you make a good point but the 2500 are also coming out with 0-20 and having lifter proublems
The chev2500 with the duramax ? I knew the 6.2 petrol in the 1500s where having that issue but not the 2500?
Melbourne is cool and cold from April to October then it can be extremely hot from Dec to March.
Gents i think it's important to clarify whether the blown engines are tuned. I imagine if they're in your shop and not Toyota then I can only assume they are.
Watch part 1.
I can assure you not a single mine site in the country will run 0W20 or XW30 in their fleet cars. They'll all be getting the same bloody 15W40 Delvac that all the HD diesels get.
Castrol makes an oil in this class that is suitable for DPF and TWC (3.way. catalyst) with mid saps and a normal HT/HS (high temp/high shear) viscosity 3.5cP . called CASTROL EDGE 5w40 M . It's a ACEA C3 API SN oil. Only available in 20lt containers according to their Australia website. It also meets A3/B4 that are disgned for direct injection diesel engines.
Toyota suggests to use either ACEA C2 or C5
The only difference between C2 And C3 it the HT/HS viscosity. C3 has a normal 3.5cP and C2 has a lower 2.9cP .
The normal viscosity is better as a protective oil the lower is better as a fuel economy oil.
I know what oil i would be using. It would has a C3 or SN on the bottle.
The Castrol oil can't meet both ACEA C3 and ACEA A3/B4 as those two categories are mutually exclusive on chemical limits alone. The sulphated ash limit for ACEA C3 is up to 0.8%, whereas the limit for ACEA A3/B4 is from 1.0% up to 1.6%, both using the ASTM D874 test method.
You are correct though that the only differences between ACEA C2 and ACEA C3 are the HT/HS viscosity being above 2.9 cP and 3.5 cP respectively using the CEC L-36-90 test method, and a fuel economy improvement requirement of above 2.5% and 1.0% (not applicable to xW-40 grades) respectively using the CEC L-54-96 test method.
It wouldn't be the first time a manufacturer has said "suitable for use where XYZ is recommended by the manufacturer" which is a potentially misleading way of saying that we reckon the oil will be fine for this standard, but we haven't actually tested it - they normally do this with API CF because the testing equipment hasn't been around for over 15 years now so there's no way it can be independently verified.
@@cameronwood1994 The only thing that I'll add is that whilst C3 oils started out as mid saps,
Most these days are low saps,
For example Shell Helix ultra 5W30 C3 is a low saps oil.
Sadly they don't have a 5w40 C3... only a 5W40 A3/B4....
Magnatec 5W-40 C3 is available in 5L bottles too
A3/b4 oil isn't suitable for dpf but what I said is correct as the new c3/sn 5w40 M is suitable in vehicles that are already using A3/B4 , as it's has the same level of protection from ht/hs of 3.5. meaning normal not low viscosity and is mid saps. I would not be using A3/B4 in a vehicle with a DPF. But you can use a very much equal oil c3/ Sn 5w40 M as it is good for use in DPF and Catylsts exhaust vehicles . The new oil is backwards compatible and exceeds all the other requirements
@@jc7654 I wouldn't use an ACEA C3 oil in an older vehicle as low SAPS oils aren't ideal for old technology engines but certainly in a more modern design I would. None of my vehicles permit an ACEA Cx oil, and I've checked with the manufacturers.
Piston cooling just another job for that poorly specked oil. Squirters have been around for some time however, How much does pulling that heat out of the pistons contribute to the oil degradation over time?
That’s why regular oil changes are an absolute must.
@@scroungasworkshop4663 especially if people crank the power up and increase load.Oil is cheap rebuilds are not👌
I would just do an oil change every 5000kms to reduce the risk of engine damage irrespective of the stock oil weight. Oil is cheap, engine is expensive
Sensible non biased information well presented, it will be interesting to see the results of the oil tests, however I tend to agree that if you turn these vehicles into the type of machines that have to deal with high loads, harsh conditions and peak performance demand the oil and change frequency needs to be looked at with accurate data based on tests under these conditions which i am afraid may be out of most dealers capabilities. great work guys.
There was never a "1984 Triton", only Mitsubishi L200 or Forte, Chrysler D50 or Ram D50.
Correct oil for all the petrols was 30/40 and Shell Rimula for the diesel's.
Easter egg well done
Last service in my 2017 fortuner mytechnition recommended 5_40. I though that made a lot of sense. Last time I was in NT mid summer 48 centigrade. Glad we're on same page
Short trips in a car are really hard on the oil.
Again change it every 5000 km. Modern engines are built with tight tolerances, short trips will degrade oil quickly and can lead to clogged screes and passages within the engine.
You really aren't going to save money by extending the oil drain interval, the money you save will just be spent on repairs that could have been avoided if you had changed the oil consistently at 5000 km..
The soccer mum doing 20k trips a day should be doing their oil even more regularly. Engines not getting to operating temperature and using synthetic and not mineral oils is a big factor in engine degredation
15-40
2023+ Corollas say 0W8. Previously they said 0W16 and 0W20.
Maybe Toyota hired a few Subaru engineers
There is a difference between failed AND failing.........
5w20
Engine oil servicing should be based on fuel burn not km…
If you modify your 300. Fuel tank, chop, secondary filter you have voided all warranty.
15W40 all day long
everyone calling should be asking for Ty he is the real expect......... 😈🤣🤣
@@arronjohnston742 😂
Thank you for the information. Looking forward to your oil test results. Can you please stand still in front of the camera as it feels like I’m traveling across the Tasman🤮
@@tyroneclarke1666 sorry mate I car to stay still for 30sec 🤣
Cheers fella👍
Toyota have really gone down the shit shoot, my 2015 SR5 was plagued with issues, Traded it after three years for an Isuzu, 200,000 km later not a single problem
Mate these things cost $150000 seems like alot of excuses whenever it's a Toyota.
Like he said this would be an issue for any motor, it’s more so because people are pushing them beyond “intended” for in this case
Totally agree, it’s designed to tow 3.5t, shouldn’t have to change anything! Go back and have a look at the larger intercooler episode.
@@Ztunrit’s designed to tow 3.5t isn’t it!
@@Andonella_Travels not all day every day, if you want that go buy a truck, the odd weekend towing the boat yes, but constantly? No.
the manual states if loads are severe the oil grade should be changed… litteraly says it in the manual🥴
@@Ztunr who has time to do that?! It should be able to not tow and then tow if required.
Its not just Toyota although i run hpr diesel 10w40 in my 200 and D4D Prado and enviro+ 10w40 in my Subaru Outback diesel ive done 220,000 in it so far and im seeing others in Australia running this oil with over 400,000 on them not one issue but in Europe they die just over 100,000 they use that crap 0w10 oils motor killer oil
people still buys these shitboxes
Put a grease nipple on the sump bro....