This is for all of you who cannot understand an explanation but would rather focus on this so called REAL OCC LOL ruclips.net/video/rMzFMcHrAyU/видео.html
If you are concerned about restrictions, use larger diameter hose and get a catch can without a filter. A pair of baffles-only 750ml aluminum OCCs in parallel adds essentially no restriction while providing lots of aluminum surface area to shed heat. And with 1.5 liters of capacity, emptying them at oil changes will surely be plenty.
The air is flowing at 90 PSI through your compressor hose. Typical crank case pressure is 2 to 6 PSI. The air going through a compressor is room temp, or outside temp. The air running through the hoses on an engine are closer to the operating temp of the engine. Those are huge differences, and is why your video does not properly address why OCC are important. OCC's can cause issues if they increase crank case pressure. However, that is only if they contain fine filters that trap any debris, then the filter clogs a little bit, thus creating more pressure than the system is designed to handle. Another reason OCC's can cause an issue, is if it's not drained periodically. There are many videos of people catching oil and water in their OCC's and dumping it between oil changes. Oil, dirt, and lots of water are typically present. If it doesn't create more pressure on the OEM system, removes water and small particles from the system, then I don't see why it's a bad part to install.
If you are destroying your engine with a oil catch can then none of you are doing your catch can correctly. The air slows down not cause of the line or anything like that. The air slows down cause of the large volume of the can and then is sucked right back out at the same speed. A water separator is not the same as a oil catch can. A oil catch can is having air pushed in one side and sucked out the other side. A water separator is only forcing air through. So again if your engine is damaged from a catch can, then you installed it wrong.
Exactly, the thing is to have as small hose length as possible, and I use just stainless dishwasher ball, these are letting the flow to pass, and still sepaeate the oil. In 3000km it collected about 300g of pure oil.
@@2WheelDerness why would the can catch oil and let air with gas pass? Wouldn't gas cause problems just like oil does? And if so, why don't we just cancel the whole thing and let the engine sucks fresh air instead?
@@ajsh3000 well, main issue is that this oil with air from engine case (needs to eject the expansion gas) is injected back to the intake and in combination with the carbon from egr makes a paste which close the intake and build on the valves, piston and rings. By getting rid of oil, the exhaust carbon dus have no adhesion substance and will just get to combustion chamber than ejected. Just blocking the vent will create lots of gaskets issue. Leaving the hose in open air will work but create fumes that polute, and also some of them will get back to the car interior and is bad to inhale them.
@@ajsh3000the pcv and occ are not only about separation. On modern cars the gases also enrich the air when it is recycled back into the mix lowering temps and increasing mpg. What the poster does not realize is most modern day cars have a restriction inline with this. With a catch can you are suppose to remove the pcv valve to have free flow and use correct lines that allow short distances with no compromises to the flow. Most modern cars mainly turbo charged do this
Great presentation! But I disagree with one minor detail. The OCC works great if used properly by not using the bronze filter. The filter is a micron filter and easily clogs with oil passing through thus restricting air flow. My remedy was to install steel wool with a down draft tube at the bottom. stainless steel scrubber flows alot more air while still maintaining the "catch" effect.
That bronze filter clogged up on mine too and caused my valve cover and Vanos gasket to start leaking. I was suspicious about that filter the day I purchased it
Provent 200, they are designed for diesel engines, very low restriction, and they can return oil to the sump. Your example of the pneumatic air/water separator is naturally far more restrictive and it operates at times near 100 psi. The crankcase pressure/vacuum is general only a few psi or less.
apparently diesel engines, due to tighter piston ring sealing for the higher compression, have much less blow-by than petrol engines. the blow-by is water and carbon and unburnt hydrocarbons that you don't want in your oil so returning it to the sump is not ideal
i actually tried this on my hilux diesel engine d4d, i had a provent occ installed, when i lifted the dipstick a lot of smoke was coming out and a little oil, when i remove the occ and put the stock hose back on there was no more smoke. i also tried it on my suzuki celerio gas with an occ the same with the one you use on the other video, it doesnt have a brass filter inside, there was no oil/smoke coming out as a lifted the dipstick during idle but when i ask someone to rev the engine oil begun to come out, i tried it without occ and oil did not come out anymore idle or rev. i think its true that the occ really hinders the flow of blowby out the engine. good thing i just had it installed less than a month, i will cut my losses and just put the stock hoses back on. thank you very much for an informative video.
Two things, you have diesel engine and second the bronze filter is known to cause issues. I say on direct injection naturally aspirated engine the catch can is must.
⚠⚠⚠⚠ Just a correction, the reason water builds up in an air compressor is not because of Humidity, but of Condensation. When air is compressed, it heats. Once is enters an expansion, or tank, it cools. The cooling process creates condensation. The air dryer does not impede air flow. Do not confuse air flow with air Volume. It has a desiccant filter that absorbs moisture. An oil Seperator is completely different. An Oil Catch Can (technically known as an oil Seperator) catches oil. Again, and air dryer ABSORBS, and oil Seperator or CATCHES. An air dryer is designed to operate with high PRESSURE, or VOLUME. An oil Seperator, only CATCHES oil. A Crankcase Breather is a different form of oil separator and allow engines to breath as freely as possible. Both look similar but the operate differently. Many high horsepower engines will use a crankcase breather to allow crankcase gases to escape quickly and efficiently. If you believe an oil catch can is affecting your car, try a crankcase breather. Crankcase breather however do not catch as much oil since they are primarily designed to allow maximum air flow. That said, oil catch cans do in fact work 100%. And their advantages FAR exceed any disadvantages. They DO need to be sized properly to your engine. Like I said earlier, do not confuse air flow with air volume. The cheap Amazon and eBay ones are too small and are mostly meant for smaller engines. They normally have tiny 1/4" inlet and outlets. A properly sized system may have as large as 12 AN, or 3/4" ports. WHERE you install a system is also critical. If you install the return BEFORE the throttle body, you won't have sufficient vacuum to pull air out of the can on a N/A application. Remember, vacuum is ALWAYS BEHIND the throttle body, so install the return AFTER the throttle body. If you have a boosted motor, install the return BEFORE the throttle body. If you are making boost, you are forcing air into the engine, thus forcing blowby. If you are forcing air into the crankcase, you essentially forcing unmetered air into the engine again and will cause the engine to run lean. Remember, lean is hot, rich is cool. Lean is mean, parts WILL break. A rich condition will simply drown and engine. Many OEMs use oil catch cans to reduce carbon build up in their engines, Chevy, Ford, BMW, Toyota, ect. I work on diesel engines for a living, working on class 7-8 trucks (18 wheelers). Diesel engines DO NOT create vacuum, or at least not in the way a gasoline motor with a throttle body does. That is why a diesel engine will have a VACUUM PUMP. Like I said earlier, you need an OIL SERERATOR. Diesel engines COMPRESS air, gasoline engines SUCK air. Therefore, you need an oil Seperator for the air VOLUME and pressurized blow-by your diesel engine produces. The trucks I work on use an oil Seperator to drain the oil back to oil pan while the clean air simply vents to atmosphere. Most aftermarket ones will have an oil separator that vents air to atmosphere with a little pod filter and a small container to drain the captured oil. The way you had your "air dryer" plumbed, will never work because it had no way to vent air to atmosphere. Again, oil separators, catch cans, and air dryers perform a similar task, but in completely different manners. Here is a good paper discussing how to properly size and build an oil Seperator system. For your application. speedtechperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Crankcase_Ventilation.pdf
lost me when you said diesel engines "dont suck air" so what creates the suction to draw air into the cylinder? pretty sure the piston moving down is what creates suction and draws in the air, not a vacuum pump lol
Thanks for the video. I had tried OCC and air separator on my diesel MB and GDI Hyundai. They both are different on air flow restrictions. The air separator shall not use on car engine. Blows gaskets! Using a quality with big flow OCC works for my diesel and GDI.
It is true for a diesel engine, but I find it very useful for a gasoline engine, especially one that works on direct injection of gasoline. I noticed after installing an oil catch that the black color disappeared in the exhaust, but before installing it, there was a permanent black color in the exhaust. I think installing an oil catch is important for the engine that works on direct injection for gasoline.
@@NASER725 thanks! I think the same of you, every GDI Engine need this. In my case, I have some bad emissions in the Exhaust and I think a OCC will work because the Engine Will has a extra gases filter.
The primary and sole reason the oil catch can is there catch oil and debris from build up in the manifold. It is a preventative measure over the course of the engines life to keep the valves and combustion chamber cleaner. When installed correctly, they do not harm or cause any improper stress on the motor. They are designed to work efficiently with direct injected motors. The catch part of the catch can is there to catch oil droplets and oil droplets containing contaminants. You do not want oil vapor leaving the crank and getting into the manifold. This process helps keep the air clean and economy of the motor. When bought and installed correctly they have been proven through motor cycling tests to help reduce buildup and improve motor performance.
Great info. It settled the decision for me and tied a couple things together. When oil is blowing up a dipstick, it is a likely clue that your PCV valve is becoming clogged. A dipstick that blows off its seat is a sign that there’s an extremely restricted flow like a stuck closed or near fully clogged PCV valve.
The problem is he used a small “catch can”. When you use a properly sized and designed one you wont have these issues. And if what he is saying is true then why not put the port to the crank case instead of the valve cover where there is a restriction to the crank case. He most likely created this video just to get views and not to be accurate. Scotty Kilmer is another one to be careful with. Hes got millions of subscriber but no acknowledgment in the car community.
@@pazsion NO they don't. Diesels have NO intake vacuum operate to a PCV valve. Diesels have CDR valves or nothing at all... You clearly have NO CLUE what you are talking about..
There are versions of the same oil catch can you had on the paper, without that bronze filter. Air restriction is not required to collect the vapours and make them droplets. It just needs baffles. Use stainless steel sponges or so. They deflect the vapours, cool them and also let the crankcase breathe as easy as it needs. I ask for your opinion too on my theory
@@gheorghinacov6008 it doesnt have an output or hose going to the intake manifold. a bigger custom alluminum tank with a big filter (not those cute round filters, it'll just restrict the flow of oil and vapor mix) a big filter wil do the job of separating the oil and vapor. oil remains in the tank and vapor just evaporate.
and yes i have a clean throttle, so is inside my intake manifold, no oil vapors sticking in the intake walls which gathers dust and dirt. yes i do always have oils on the OCC, especially whenever i rev highs
Unfortunately this video is a sham!!! The air water separator the person uses is designed to be used for a high pressure compressor! To compare it with a catch can is a farce! If he would use a catch can (Not a air water separator designed to be used for very high PSI) the oil spattering from the dip stick would never happen. I have an oil catch can and performed the same test with and without an oil catch can. The results are shocking!!!! No oil spatter at all for either one!
Try it with an OCC that’s made for the vehicle, not one that’s made for High Pressure Air. If you use one that is set up for proper air flow and pressure, you won’t have any issues. If you get a cheap one that’s just using basic media, then it’s probably not going to work and do as you described above.
Never had a problem I run one on my silverado for 2 years now. I took the intake off cleaned it and also cleaned the valves that was disgusting. Installed a 30$ can took it apart few weeks ago and it was pretty clean still. I never let the can over fill and I clean the brass filter with carb cleaned every oil change.
This is why you don't run a cheap catch can with one of those silly bronze filter things. Proper catch cans use baffles, or centrifugal force, to force oil droplets to collect on surfaces inside the catch can without impeding the airflow that much. Also, that engine has a lot of blowby...
Thanks for that information. I had an occ, but experienced a flat spot in acceleration. It recently unwound the pot due to vibration and I lost it on the highway. To prevent oil spitting on my exhaust and unfiltered air being sucked into my intake, I bypassed what was left of the occ. The flat spot is gone and my engine feels more responsive. After seeing this video, I’m not replacing the occ! Thanks heaps 😄👍🏼
I had Provent 200 installed on my 2016 Everest 3.2L on year 2018, never had problem ever since. But, recently I have encountered the strange loud humming sound during low speed acceleration, sounds like a modified exhaust pipe blowing, or the subwoofer playing the 40Hz tone, the whole cabin can feel the vibration. The issue was intermittent, my initial thought was the EGR system, dirty or EGR value malfunction... Ran the Forscan, no any code found and everything was fine. So I went to clean the EGR, Intake Manifold, Throttle, thanks to the OCC, the EGR system had little carbon, but it was dry. After assemble the everything back, I expect the loud humming sound would be gone, unfortunately, the noise was still there. I suddenly recall that I had OCC installed and I might as well to check if the oil can is full, or the filter is blocking the blowby gas, becoz the filter is almost 5 years old. The next day, I removed the OCC filter and decided to give it a try, Vola~ the engine humming sound was gone, everything sounded normal again. This video explanation make sense, OCC can alter engine performance, or do damage to the engine, especially with those cheaper OCC. For me, I will just bypass OCC for now, since the new filter is too expensive, I would rather clean EGR system once a year.
In addition to Provent it has bigger tubes which is 25mm compare to other OCC in the market that is why is does not have restriction when it comes to blow by gases
Very interesting. Great demonstration to prove the point. At a surface level, one would think the air intake would be enough and it should be able to vent without a return, but your video shows exactly what you are saying.
The OCC that I prefer are the style from diesel engines. They have a large volume, a filter inside, and a hose in the bottom that drains back to the crank case.
Most your videos are good... but this one is a bad example/comparison. An air compressor water/air separator by design has and small orifice and a lot of restriction, counting on the fact it is fed high pressure compressed air. The compressed air is pushed through an orifice to increase the velocity of the air and create a vortex in the bowl of the separator. The sudden expansion of the air exiting the orifice cools the air causes moisture to condense, and then the vortex (like a Dyson vacuum) is used to spin the water out of the air which then impacts the walls of the bowl and dribbles down to the bottom. This is not how a catch can works. A proper catch can designed for a diesel engine DOES NOT have a designed restriction of any kind, it does not rely on accelerating the velocity of the gasses and creating a vortex to "spin out" the oil. This is not done for the very reason that it creates a large restriction to the flow. A proper catch can has large inlet and outlet, at least the same size as the original hose. The gasses pass through the can with no appreciable restriction using baffles and/or media such as steel wool or large pore sponge who's sole purpose to extract heat from the gasses and provide a surface to condense out the oil without causing flow restrictions. Since the velocity of the gases is fairly low to begin with, the condensed oil simply drips to the bottom of the can. If you can measure a pressure drop through the catch can, then it is a bad design or too small for the application. (Yes, if you have high end lab quality manometers, you can measure a slight pressure drop, sensitive lab equipment will show a pressure drop in straight hose too..) A catch can with bronze sinter filter should never be used on a diesel engine and is a bad design made by marketers that don't care/understand engineering. Why don't manufacturer's include them? Simple cost and maintenance. For the average owner, the engine system as designed will greatly out last the time they will own the vehicle and through the warranty period and it is one less item to be maintained, and one less item to pay for during manufacturing. Why do I run one? I have a diesel truck that gets used for towing quite a bit, one down side to the factory design without the catch can, over time oil collects in the intercooler reducing it's effectiveness. On a turbo diesel, the crankcase fumes are introduced before the turbo, the oily fumes are then sucked through the turbo, compressed, and then cooled in the intercooler, where the oil will condense out, just like in a catch can. The average owner would never notice this as they don't work their engine hard very often and more importantly, don't keep their trucks for 20+ years and hundreds of thousands of miles.
the frst critical content about occ. thanks for your video! aditionally in winter the oil and watermix freezes in the can, if the car stands in enviroments under 0 degree celsius.
Ohhh this made me convinced more. This is the explanation why it will just affect much engine life. Didnt read any comments explains why.. thanks much sir. Appreciated much.
In any improvement you do there are always tradeoffs. Increase oil crank pressure is the negative of OCC, but it can be negated by keeping the screen clean and draining everytime you do an oil change. Toyota has managed very well with oil seperators that not just take out the oil but then have the extra pressure of putting it back into the pressured crank. Drag and circle track racers often use vacuum pumps on chevy v8's to reduce oil crank pressure, because they can gain a few more horsepower with negative pressure. The benefits to not putting the oil vapor gunk back into the engine through the intake are huge and are more than carbon buildup on the back of the valves (which is really bad in its self). Other benefits are increase octane, cleaner engine all through the intake, valve body, longer life of the catalytic converter, etc.
Good video, I expanded it. In the BMW N55, even more oil got into the system, pressure builds up in the engine and entrains additional oil. I even increased the line from the engine to the turbo a bit, but brought it back to the original length and lo and behold, everything is dry...I hope for a lower flow rate due to the thicker connection so that it can draw even less liquid from the engine...
Haha I knew I wasn’t crazy !! I have too one of these replica mishimoto oil catch cans that contain the broNze filter which didn’t take long to clog. I started to notice a lot of leaking around my can and also leaking around my valve cover and Vanos gasket. Glad I noticed it quickly and remove the bronze filter and now the oil leaking around my valve cover has stopped. I’m considering just venting to atmosphere using a differnt can
You forgot to mention that on a diesel there is no vacuum in the intake. I have not seen any butterfly flaps on that intake system. And most diesels have no PCV valve. they just have a tube out of the headcover. It's always at atmospheric pressure so the catch can setup needs to be changed. The OCC setup with baffles and the filter inside is used on most gas cars that have Vacuum in the intake and it works great there cause it's being drawn out. Most diesel engines have no vacuum in the intake and use the OCC setup with baffels, ehich then is usually vented to open atmosphere through an outside open filter or intake without internal filter cause it is being pushed out with a positive pressure in the crank case. For a diesel we usually use a bigger catch can or larger diameter path ways so the air slows down but the volume is the same
You should watch reputable mechanic vloggers not this uneducated frustrated mechanic/engineer 😂 watch Scotty KILMER and other respectable mechanic vloggers instead of watching this wanna be. 😂
Filter inside OCC will increase the resistance and slowing down the breather airflow, i recommend you to instal 2 small OCC so it can match the airflow speed.
That is why I always build or modify my catch cans, there must be free flow from the crankcase at all times otherwise you need a higher flow condenser or OCC. The air filter separator shown is designed to filter COMPRESSED air and separate water from it, totally different situation, however, the video is a great warning for OCC users. Routing up far the hose from the pcv to the OCC inlet may also cause some oil condensation which will run back to the pcv NOT a good thing.
What a logical explanation. Please do one explaining Water-Meth Injection in a Diesel engine. I hear people claiming 20% more power and up to 5 MPG more wilst cleaning your engine.
you are correct in your case as the flow is slowed a lot via your line having a small drier. if you have a larger air drier you have more surface area you will haved much much much more flow. same applies to OCC. and ditch the bronze filter. OCC cans, not necessary. Id suggest a can style occ that uses swirl and not filter. Very little to no loss of flow and velocity. A high output direct injection turbo engine really needs a OCC to evacuate blow by and crank case vapors as to prolong valve cleanliness. My experience in high output performance. They work as intended with no rising crank case pressure or loss of flow as ive installed and tested, they did not have bronze filtration as well.
I strip out the screen and filter and replace with a stainless steel pot scrubber pad. Adding all this surface area gives gobs of oil catching surface with only a little pressure drop. Site it in a high temperature area like above a catalyst to drive out moisture of combustion and any fuel vapors.
How about having a suction pump to compensate the loss of speed of suction together with the OCC. So when they sell any OCC product, it must be sold with a suction pump .
What if I used one of the OCCs with the removable bronze filter and removed that then placed steel wool in the can under that plate with holes. That should allow the air to flow through at a good rate but still give area for the oils to collect on right?
I have tried a mishimoto occ on two of my gasoline engined cars and Ive noticed that when i rev my cars hard , the catch can does catch a lot of oil but it also causes a leak at my oil filter gasket. I figured that the blow by gases arent venting out as efficiently and its pressurizing the crankcase . Thanks for the eye opener , shall un- install the catch cans from my cars
I’m dealing with a 2.4 eco tech where the PCV system is fed by a tiny metering hole in the intake which clogs constantly since it’s directly below the throttle body which is directly below the port on the airbox, so crud drips down almost in a straight line from the PCV exhaust right into the PCV intake port….. so you sort of have to choose the cause of your blow by, extra tubes and filters or clogged PCV intake.
I was going to install an OCC but your video convinced me otherwise. The blow by side effect is not worth it. Will just have the turbo cleaned when needed.
Isn't the engine a sealed container? You can only remove blowby as quickly as it is displaced by more blowby. Vehicles don't have an active pressurized ventilation system that has more pressure than the blowby that could route fresh air from a part of the engine pushing the blowby gases to the CCV.
What about ones like racing lines catch can for a golf 7r with just a baffle plate but no filter media restriction like your seeing in that typical oil catch can. Would you not get the best of both worlds then?
If you can feel the blowby from the dipstick tube when the engine is revved under some load then: Step1 - check the PCV valve. It that's OK then: Step 2 - consider a catch can. Or, if you own a VW or BMW then you can ignore step 1 and 2 since you are going to need it eventually anyway. To load the engine slip the clutch or put transmission in drive with foot firmly on the brake for a second or 2. Really helps to have a helper to do this '- ) EDIT: I always stand on the side of the car with my feet away from the front tire when doing this.
Great explanation, thank you so much. I bought a ssangyong musso 2006 turbo diesel 2.9L a year ago , the inlet manifold was found full of black paste. the engine ventilation from the rocker cover is connected to after air filter and before the turbo. what do I need to do to prevent the build up of carbon and oil at the inlet manifold again please? thanks in advance
@Mr.DIYer - I cant udnerstand your video you say dont install oil catch can ??? the blowbye gas and oil goes to the manifold is this better it damages all components,injektor etc... I have a Mercedes c270 cdi 2001 and I have this Problem too much oil in my intake tract - my Turbo is new manifold is new the crankcase ventilation is new ???
I have a ram 2500 with a Cummins 6.7 engine. It has a crank case vent filter that filters the crank case exhaust. Doesn’t that slow the venting the same as a catch can ?
Thank you for that video! Very well explained :) Had to experience this issue first hand. Oil spilled out my engine under boost pressure, now I know why. Gonna throw out my OCC immediatly
This is a good video but also need clarity. The engine you demonstrated is a Diesel engine. Usually they don’t have vacuum in the intake manifold. Adding a catch can to this obviously doesn’t create the necessary vacuum to draw the pressure in the crank. That is why when you added the OCC and took out dipstick, it showed oil spilling out of it. Some modern diesel engine have a vacuum pump to create negative pressure for brake booster and also for negative crank case pressure. Now on gasoline engine, the intake manifold creates a negative pressure due to throttle being close at idle. A los of engine have two or more vents in the valve cover. One that goss in the intake manifold for negative pressure and a second that goes from the valve cover to the intake line before the throttle for positive pressure. Again it was a great demonstration you did but it needed little more detail since you were using a diesel engine as your demonstration.
So I have just added an OCC to my mustang. I put around a 100 miles on it and I can tell that there is a residual of oil within the can and stinks like oil vapors, but no liquid forming at the bottom of the can yet. I was simply checking to see if there was anything in it at the 100 miles after install. I didn't think there would be, but my reason in checking it also, was my car seems to be running poorly to a degree. I noticeable hitch when I get on it. I'm in the process changing out the pcv as it looks old and for a short time the pcv hose was not connected as we just put a supercharger on it, and we had to run the passenger side pcv hose to cc and the out from the air intake tube to the cc. From the drivers side valve cover, we ran a hose to the air intake tube just after the maf. I'm just worried I'm not getting good crank case pressure relief with this install, or maybe this has nothing to do with it and I'm running really rich. I'm in the process of checking that out as well. Any thoughts would be appreciated Thanks
@@leishi1950it just so happened to be chilly the day I checked the reservoir. good results finally when it warmed up and put some miles on it. It was breathing just fine through the pcv.
@@alfenner3309 that is great to hear which occ do you put in. I'm in the same place. Worries about the built up pressure in the crankcase and also worries about the hose cannot handle vacuum maybe clapsed
What is most often misunderstood is that an oil catch can does act the same way as an air compressor water separator. The effect is the same. Vacuum has to be reduced in the line for the separation to take place. Also, the added hose length and canister volume reduces vacuum evacuation of the crankcase. Reduced vacuum evacuation of the crankcase is harmful to the engine. Repairing the engine's bottom end is more costly and labor intensive than cleaning the upper intake system. Also, using a good Dexos approved synthetic oil will help keep carbon deposits in suspension and prevent them from clinging onto internal engine components. 3-5000 mile oil changes will help too. ruclips.net/video/FW0wCl-O7oY/видео.html
@@cometcal2 The demonstration in the video is misleading because the water separator is a much greater constriction compared to a catch can. I'm not certain how significant a role intake manifold vacuum plays in evacuating pressure from the crankcase. The only way to be sure is to redo the demonstration with a actual OCC to see if the difference in blowby at the dipstick port is as great as was shown in this video
vacuum should be unchanged in a sealed system. It may move faster to the larger space, but within no time it should balance out upon start up. I'd say it works more like a baffle on a suppressor. There's no large change as long as there's not a lot of baffles and the trip is short and low velosity. 45 vs 223 for instance. Power not rpms...in the engine world. This is just not a significant barrier, but it'll work like a cooling tower and allow gases to cool, carbon and heavier liquids drop while the gases continue. I'm thinking out loud here so I hope this makes sense.
Good day Sir. As always, thank you for the very informative video. May I ask Sir, what will happen if the occ has big enough cavities that will not hinder the flow of blow by gases?
I agree with you he had the wrong type of filter,you can use stainless dish cleaner sort of like wire wool ,much better flow,dont think his truck was turboed either,more blow by on older engines
the fact that you dont have a airfilter or airbox on will play into factor aswell. if there isn't vacum at the port for the ventilation tube, then it wont be properly vented. you need this vacum in order for a occ to function properly. by having the intake open like you do in the video. the port wont see vacum
Hi, finally someone with a brain ! I have an m57 bmw diesel twin turbo. I measured suction on the hose on intake part on idle and is very low. On 3000 rpm there is quite a lot . The blow by makes my oil have condensation if i let it in the intake. I put a hose as old draft under car and put new oil. 200 mile oil is perfect . Like new . I have egr and dpf delete . Dpf is empty inside. I understand catch can problem , i agree, we need to vent fast. How about an electric turbine 12 v extractor ? Help vent under car in atmosphere. It would make vacuum as the intake. Could measure to match the vacuum and fit big enough extractor fan .
Yeah but this works for boosted engines. I have a 2005 Pontiac GTO LSA suoer chargered and I have a catch can. The blow by oil goes into the catch can and I drain it once every 2 months .. or depending on how much I drive it. This OVC may not work for OEM applications but they are necessary for boosted engines
In DI gasoline injection can slower built of carbon deposits on intakes and valves. Because this deposits is built of burned oil and other impurities from engine
That's a cheap OCC set up on a diesel engine. A good quality OCC comes with connections and hoses made for the specific vehicle application, and it does NOT restrict flow. If you bothered to read the manufacturers data sheets and independent testing, you would know that.
My catch can came with a tiny cone shaped air filter that can be placed on top. Im guessing this is intended for a vent to air system? So i could simply plug the pcv hole on the intake and just let it vent to air through the cone shaped filter 🤔
Thats not OCC, that water separator work with high air pressure like 5 bars, but in engine, the air go out with no pressure, so it will prevent the air to go out free.
first, oil catch can designed for direct injection gasoline or diesel engine, especialy turbo second, if you want to install it, open it and inspect inside it, because bronze filter is the problem, remove it most occ user just leave outlet side from occ to the air and block inlet side in intake line because on diesel engine use egr if you leave this stock oil vapor + black somoke from egr wil block your intake manifold and most authorized service does not have SOP to clean it
For that old engine a catch can is not needed and no telling what it might do. Only direct injected engines require a CC since the fuel (which has additives to clean valves) does not spray on the valve as in a port injected engine. So the catch can captures oil in the PCV system that might be in the PCV system that is used to vent the crankcase to the intake manifold. That is all a catch can does...intercept any oil in the PCV system from being sprayed on the intake valves.
What an Interesting video. I'm assuming that the car you used in your illustration is a diesel. What interested .e was when you attached that one way valve and got blow out through the dip stick tube. A faulty/blocked PCV can also cause blow out through the dip stick tube. I know this through person experience. However what about a V6 petrol vehicle like the Lexus is250? What is your view about fitting an OCC to one of these cars?
This is for all of you who cannot understand an explanation but would rather focus on this so called REAL OCC LOL ruclips.net/video/rMzFMcHrAyU/видео.html
If you are concerned about restrictions, use larger diameter hose and get a catch can without a filter. A pair of baffles-only 750ml aluminum OCCs in parallel adds essentially no restriction while providing lots of aluminum surface area to shed heat. And with 1.5 liters of capacity, emptying them at oil changes will surely be plenty.
The air is flowing at 90 PSI through your compressor hose. Typical crank case pressure is 2 to 6 PSI. The air going through a compressor is room temp, or outside temp. The air running through the hoses on an engine are closer to the operating temp of the engine. Those are huge differences, and is why your video does not properly address why OCC are important.
OCC's can cause issues if they increase crank case pressure. However, that is only if they contain fine filters that trap any debris, then the filter clogs a little bit, thus creating more pressure than the system is designed to handle. Another reason OCC's can cause an issue, is if it's not drained periodically.
There are many videos of people catching oil and water in their OCC's and dumping it between oil changes. Oil, dirt, and lots of water are typically present. If it doesn't create more pressure on the OEM system, removes water and small particles from the system, then I don't see why it's a bad part to install.
@@MrDIYer Don't worry pal. We totally understand your explanation.
@@michaelblodgett4704 lol
Get mann Hummel Provent 200 or more, they have large filtering element and large inlet/outlet diameters.
If you are destroying your engine with a oil catch can then none of you are doing your catch can correctly. The air slows down not cause of the line or anything like that. The air slows down cause of the large volume of the can and then is sucked right back out at the same speed. A water separator is not the same as a oil catch can. A oil catch can is having air pushed in one side and sucked out the other side. A water separator is only forcing air through. So again if your engine is damaged from a catch can, then you installed it wrong.
Exactly, the thing is to have as small hose length as possible, and I use just stainless dishwasher ball, these are letting the flow to pass, and still sepaeate the oil. In 3000km it collected about 300g of pure oil.
@@2WheelDerness why would the can catch oil and let air with gas pass? Wouldn't gas cause problems just like oil does? And if so, why don't we just cancel the whole thing and let the engine sucks fresh air instead?
@@ajsh3000 well, main issue is that this oil with air from engine case (needs to eject the expansion gas) is injected back to the intake and in combination with the carbon from egr makes a paste which close the intake and build on the valves, piston and rings. By getting rid of oil, the exhaust carbon dus have no adhesion substance and will just get to combustion chamber than ejected. Just blocking the vent will create lots of gaskets issue. Leaving the hose in open air will work but create fumes that polute, and also some of them will get back to the car interior and is bad to inhale them.
@@ajsh3000the pcv and occ are not only about separation. On modern cars the gases also enrich the air when it is recycled back into the mix lowering temps and increasing mpg. What the poster does not realize is most modern day cars have a restriction inline with this. With a catch can you are suppose to remove the pcv valve to have free flow and use correct lines that allow short distances with no compromises to the flow. Most modern cars mainly turbo charged do this
The good of the catch can is that the motor will not eat the own shit again and again
Great presentation! But I disagree with one minor detail. The OCC works great if used properly by not using the bronze filter. The filter is a micron filter and easily clogs with oil passing through thus restricting air flow. My remedy was to install steel wool with a down draft tube at the bottom. stainless steel scrubber flows alot more air while still maintaining the "catch" effect.
Agree the bronze increases pressure. There are some with relief valves. Spend a bit of money on a good one.
So which one should I buy?
@@stevijay2953 process west SEPR8R. Thats what i have.
The bronze filte hev to be the output not the input
That bronze filter clogged up on mine too and caused my valve cover and Vanos gasket to start leaking. I was suspicious about that filter the day I purchased it
Provent 200, they are designed for diesel engines, very low restriction, and they can return oil to the sump. Your example of the pneumatic air/water separator is naturally far more restrictive and it operates at times near 100 psi. The crankcase pressure/vacuum is general only a few psi or less.
apparently diesel engines, due to tighter piston ring sealing for the higher compression, have much less blow-by than petrol engines.
the blow-by is water and carbon and unburnt hydrocarbons that you don't want in your oil so returning it to the sump is not ideal
I've been using occ in my vehicle for 5 yrs, 100 k miles, till now engine runs smooth as silk
130k Miles on Ecoboost mine runs just like new. No can and never cleaned the intake valves .
i actually tried this on my hilux diesel engine d4d, i had a provent occ installed, when i lifted the dipstick a lot of smoke was coming out and a little oil, when i remove the occ and put the stock hose back on there was no more smoke. i also tried it on my suzuki celerio gas with an occ the same with the one you use on the other video, it doesnt have a brass filter inside, there was no oil/smoke coming out as a lifted the dipstick during idle but when i ask someone to rev the engine oil begun to come out, i tried it without occ and oil did not come out anymore idle or rev. i think its true that the occ really hinders the flow of blowby out the engine. good thing i just had it installed less than a month, i will cut my losses and just put the stock hoses back on. thank you very much for an informative video.
Two things, you have diesel engine and second the bronze filter is known to cause issues.
I say on direct injection naturally aspirated engine the catch can is must.
⚠⚠⚠⚠ Just a correction, the reason water builds up in an air compressor is not because of Humidity, but of Condensation. When air is compressed, it heats. Once is enters an expansion, or tank, it cools. The cooling process creates condensation. The air dryer does not impede air flow. Do not confuse air flow with air Volume. It has a desiccant filter that absorbs moisture. An oil Seperator is completely different. An Oil Catch Can (technically known as an oil Seperator) catches oil. Again, and air dryer ABSORBS, and oil Seperator or CATCHES. An air dryer is designed to operate with high PRESSURE, or VOLUME. An oil Seperator, only CATCHES oil.
A Crankcase Breather is a different form of oil separator and allow engines to breath as freely as possible. Both look similar but the operate differently. Many high horsepower engines will use a crankcase breather to allow crankcase gases to escape quickly and efficiently. If you believe an oil catch can is affecting your car, try a crankcase breather. Crankcase breather however do not catch as much oil since they are primarily designed to allow maximum air flow. That said, oil catch cans do in fact work 100%. And their advantages FAR exceed any disadvantages.
They DO need to be sized properly to your engine. Like I said earlier, do not confuse air flow with air volume. The cheap Amazon and eBay ones are too small and are mostly meant for smaller engines. They normally have tiny 1/4" inlet and outlets. A properly sized system may have as large as 12 AN, or 3/4" ports. WHERE you install a system is also critical. If you install the return BEFORE the throttle body, you won't have sufficient vacuum to pull air out of the can on a N/A application. Remember, vacuum is ALWAYS BEHIND the throttle body, so install the return AFTER the throttle body. If you have a boosted motor, install the return BEFORE the throttle body. If you are making boost, you are forcing air into the engine, thus forcing blowby. If you are forcing air into the crankcase, you essentially forcing unmetered air into the engine again and will cause the engine to run lean. Remember, lean is hot, rich is cool. Lean is mean, parts WILL break. A rich condition will simply drown and engine. Many OEMs use oil catch cans to reduce carbon build up in their engines, Chevy, Ford, BMW, Toyota, ect.
I work on diesel engines for a living, working on class 7-8 trucks (18 wheelers). Diesel engines DO NOT create vacuum, or at least not in the way a gasoline motor with a throttle body does. That is why a diesel engine will have a VACUUM PUMP. Like I said earlier, you need an OIL SERERATOR. Diesel engines COMPRESS air, gasoline engines SUCK air. Therefore, you need an oil Seperator for the air VOLUME and pressurized blow-by your diesel engine produces. The trucks I work on use an oil Seperator to drain the oil back to oil pan while the clean air simply vents to atmosphere. Most aftermarket ones will have an oil separator that vents air to atmosphere with a little pod filter and a small container to drain the captured oil. The way you had your "air dryer" plumbed, will never work because it had no way to vent air to atmosphere. Again, oil separators, catch cans, and air dryers perform a similar task, but in completely different manners.
Here is a good paper discussing how to properly size and build an oil Seperator system. For your application.
speedtechperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Crankcase_Ventilation.pdf
lost me when you said diesel engines "dont suck air" so what creates the suction to draw air into the cylinder? pretty sure the piston moving down is what creates suction and draws in the air, not a vacuum pump lol
@@bryanthornburg8636 They compress air.
Thanks for the video. I had tried OCC and air separator on my diesel MB and GDI Hyundai. They both are different on air flow restrictions. The air separator shall not use on car engine. Blows gaskets! Using a quality with big flow OCC works for my diesel and GDI.
You are right, diesel engine need bigger airflow when you have to install OCC
It is true for a diesel engine, but I find it very useful for a gasoline engine, especially one that works on direct injection of gasoline. I noticed after installing an oil catch that the black color disappeared in the exhaust, but before installing it, there was a permanent black color in the exhaust. I think installing an oil catch is important for the engine that works on direct injection for gasoline.
What brand of OCC did you use? I have a Santa Fe 2017 GDI 2.4
@@javiergimenez5953
speedwow oil catch can
@@NASER725 thanks! I think the same of you, every GDI Engine need this. In my case, I have some bad emissions in the Exhaust and I think a OCC will work because the Engine Will has a extra gases filter.
The primary and sole reason the oil catch can is there catch oil and debris from build up in the manifold. It is a preventative measure over the course of the engines life to keep the valves and combustion chamber cleaner. When installed correctly, they do not harm or cause any improper stress on the motor. They are designed to work efficiently with direct injected motors. The catch part of the catch can is there to catch oil droplets and oil droplets containing contaminants. You do not want oil vapor leaving the crank and getting into the manifold. This process helps keep the air clean and economy of the motor. When bought and installed correctly they have been proven through motor cycling tests to help reduce buildup and improve motor performance.
Great info. It settled the decision for me and tied a couple things together. When oil is blowing up a dipstick, it is a likely clue that your PCV valve is becoming clogged. A dipstick that blows off its seat is a sign that there’s an extremely restricted flow like a stuck closed or near fully clogged PCV valve.
It's a diesel , diesels do NOT have PCV valves,
Yes they do
The problem is he used a small “catch can”. When you use a properly sized and designed one you wont have these issues. And if what he is saying is true then why not put the port to the crank case instead of the valve cover where there is a restriction to the crank case. He most likely created this video just to get views and not to be accurate. Scotty Kilmer is another one to be careful with. Hes got millions of subscriber but no acknowledgment in the car community.
@@pazsion NO they don't. Diesels have NO intake vacuum operate to a PCV valve. Diesels have CDR valves or nothing at all... You clearly have NO CLUE what you are talking about..
@@TheFARM2019 Diesels have ZERO need for a catch can. It has no benefit on a diesel.
Its all the explanation i needed to convice me just to clean the valves and the intake system rather than having a OCC. Thanks.
There are versions of the same oil catch can you had on the paper, without that bronze filter. Air restriction is not required to collect the vapours and make them droplets. It just needs baffles. Use stainless steel sponges or so. They deflect the vapours, cool them and also let the crankcase breathe as easy as it needs. I ask for your opinion too on my theory
best comment so far, i too have a custom OCC, and i think i just designed it properly thats why i dont uave d same issue with the dipstick test
@@stockSOHC
Aside from the fact that yours is safe for the crankcase, is it effective too? I mean how is the output hose? Clean? Oily?
@@gheorghinacov6008 it doesnt have an output or hose going to the intake manifold. a bigger custom alluminum tank with a big filter (not those cute round filters, it'll just restrict the flow of oil and vapor mix) a big filter wil do the job of separating the oil and vapor. oil remains in the tank and vapor just evaporate.
and yes i have a clean throttle, so is inside my intake manifold, no oil vapors sticking in the intake walls which gathers dust and dirt. yes i do always have oils on the OCC, especially whenever i rev highs
Unfortunately this video is a sham!!! The air water separator the person uses is designed to be used for a high pressure compressor! To compare it with a catch can is a farce! If he would use a catch can (Not a air water separator designed to be used for very high PSI) the oil spattering from the dip stick would never happen. I have an oil catch can and performed the same test with and without an oil catch can. The results are shocking!!!! No oil spatter at all for either one!
Try it with an OCC that’s made for the vehicle, not one that’s made for High Pressure Air. If you use one that is set up for proper air flow and pressure, you won’t have any issues. If you get a cheap one that’s just using basic media, then it’s probably not going to work and do as you described above.
lol whatever floats your boat.
@@MrDIYerHe brings up a great point, if you are going to show an OCC causes those issues, then show those issues occurring with an actual OCC.
Never had a problem I run one on my silverado for 2 years now. I took the intake off cleaned it and also cleaned the valves that was disgusting. Installed a 30$ can took it apart few weeks ago and it was pretty clean still. I never let the can over fill and I clean the brass filter with carb cleaned every oil change.
This is why you don't run a cheap catch can with one of those silly bronze filter things. Proper catch cans use baffles, or centrifugal force, to force oil droplets to collect on surfaces inside the catch can without impeding the airflow that much. Also, that engine has a lot of blowby...
Lol
Wow, you have completely rocked my world. I’m so confused what to do!
Thanks for that information. I had an occ, but experienced a flat spot in acceleration. It recently unwound the pot due to vibration and I lost it on the highway. To prevent oil spitting on my exhaust and unfiltered air being sucked into my intake, I bypassed what was left of the occ. The flat spot is gone and my engine feels more responsive. After seeing this video, I’m not replacing the occ! Thanks heaps 😄👍🏼
Thank you for this awesome video because after watching I'm not going to fit a OCC in my engine.
I had Provent 200 installed on my 2016 Everest 3.2L on year 2018, never had problem ever since. But, recently I have encountered the strange loud humming sound during low speed acceleration, sounds like a modified exhaust pipe blowing, or the subwoofer playing the 40Hz tone, the whole cabin can feel the vibration. The issue was intermittent, my initial thought was the EGR system, dirty or EGR value malfunction... Ran the Forscan, no any code found and everything was fine. So I went to clean the EGR, Intake Manifold, Throttle, thanks to the OCC, the EGR system had little carbon, but it was dry. After assemble the everything back, I expect the loud humming sound would be gone, unfortunately, the noise was still there. I suddenly recall that I had OCC installed and I might as well to check if the oil can is full, or the filter is blocking the blowby gas, becoz the filter is almost 5 years old. The next day, I removed the OCC filter and decided to give it a try, Vola~ the engine humming sound was gone, everything sounded normal again. This video explanation make sense, OCC can alter engine performance, or do damage to the engine, especially with those cheaper OCC. For me, I will just bypass OCC for now, since the new filter is too expensive, I would rather clean EGR system once a year.
Maintenance is key
In addition to Provent it has bigger tubes which is 25mm compare to other OCC in the market that is why is does not have restriction when it comes to blow by gases
Korek
Replace filter with steel wool
A proper occ shouldn’t cause any restriction in air flow. Mine certainly doesn’t.
Lol ok
The oil catch can I installed on my 3.5 Ecoboost works just fine. My oil dipstick does not squirt out oil while idling.
replace the occ with the stock breather hose and it will do the same thing.
Very interesting. Great demonstration to prove the point.
At a surface level, one would think the air intake would be enough and it should be able to vent without a return, but your video shows exactly what you are saying.
Excellent presentation with theoretical and practical evidence. I’ll leave the catch can and delete the EGR instead on my Pajero. 👍🏻
Thank you for sharing your knowledge on this matter your explanation is perfect.
The OCC that I prefer are the style from diesel engines. They have a large volume, a filter inside, and a hose in the bottom that drains back to the crank case.
Absolutely amazing explanation! Now I need to evaluate do I want to install a OCC‼
Do you even have diesel engine?
Very interesting!!!! My unmodified petrol engine is pushing out the oilstick. This video helped me understand the phenomenon
Makes sense I’m just going to purchase one without the bronze filter and mount it cose to the intake. Thanks for the video
Most your videos are good... but this one is a bad example/comparison. An air compressor water/air separator by design has and small orifice and a lot of restriction, counting on the fact it is fed high pressure compressed air. The compressed air is pushed through an orifice to increase the velocity of the air and create a vortex in the bowl of the separator. The sudden expansion of the air exiting the orifice cools the air causes moisture to condense, and then the vortex (like a Dyson vacuum) is used to spin the water out of the air which then impacts the walls of the bowl and dribbles down to the bottom. This is not how a catch can works. A proper catch can designed for a diesel engine DOES NOT have a designed restriction of any kind, it does not rely on accelerating the velocity of the gasses and creating a vortex to "spin out" the oil. This is not done for the very reason that it creates a large restriction to the flow.
A proper catch can has large inlet and outlet, at least the same size as the original hose. The gasses pass through the can with no appreciable restriction using baffles and/or media such as steel wool or large pore sponge who's sole purpose to extract heat from the gasses and provide a surface to condense out the oil without causing flow restrictions. Since the velocity of the gases is fairly low to begin with, the condensed oil simply drips to the bottom of the can. If you can measure a pressure drop through the catch can, then it is a bad design or too small for the application. (Yes, if you have high end lab quality manometers, you can measure a slight pressure drop, sensitive lab equipment will show a pressure drop in straight hose too..)
A catch can with bronze sinter filter should never be used on a diesel engine and is a bad design made by marketers that don't care/understand engineering.
Why don't manufacturer's include them? Simple cost and maintenance. For the average owner, the engine system as designed will greatly out last the time they will own the vehicle and through the warranty period and it is one less item to be maintained, and one less item to pay for during manufacturing.
Why do I run one? I have a diesel truck that gets used for towing quite a bit, one down side to the factory design without the catch can, over time oil collects in the intercooler reducing it's effectiveness. On a turbo diesel, the crankcase fumes are introduced before the turbo, the oily fumes are then sucked through the turbo, compressed, and then cooled in the intercooler, where the oil will condense out, just like in a catch can. The average owner would never notice this as they don't work their engine hard very often and more importantly, don't keep their trucks for 20+ years and hundreds of thousands of miles.
Great explanation sir, naintindihan ko tlga kahit d ako automotive expert hehehe.
the frst critical content about occ. thanks for your video!
aditionally in winter the oil and watermix freezes in the can, if the car stands in enviroments under 0 degree celsius.
my toyota 4runner 350k miles no oil catches can need and still running strong 😊
Because your engine have port injection! This filter should be used if only direct injection fuel in your engine!
In my opinion, this video has opened up a kind of philosophical discussion about the use of catch can
Ohhh this made me convinced more. This is the explanation why it will just affect much engine life. Didnt read any comments explains why.. thanks much sir. Appreciated much.
What a good video! When I saw the thumbnail I did not expect that, but the content quality is much higher than the visual quality.
In any improvement you do there are always tradeoffs. Increase oil crank pressure is the negative of OCC, but it can be negated by keeping the screen clean and draining everytime you do an oil change. Toyota has managed very well with oil seperators that not just take out the oil but then have the extra pressure of putting it back into the pressured crank. Drag and circle track racers often use vacuum pumps on chevy v8's to reduce oil crank pressure, because they can gain a few more horsepower with negative pressure. The benefits to not putting the oil vapor gunk back into the engine through the intake are huge and are more than carbon buildup on the back of the valves (which is really bad in its self). Other benefits are increase octane, cleaner engine all through the intake, valve body, longer life of the catalytic converter, etc.
Good video, I expanded it. In the BMW N55, even more oil got into the system, pressure builds up in the engine and entrains additional oil. I even increased the line from the engine to the turbo a bit, but brought it back to the original length and lo and behold, everything is dry...I hope for a lower flow rate due to the thicker connection so that it can draw even less liquid from the engine...
Haha I knew I wasn’t crazy !! I have too one of these replica mishimoto oil catch cans that contain the broNze filter which didn’t take long to clog. I started to notice a lot of leaking around my can and also leaking around my valve cover and Vanos gasket. Glad I noticed it quickly and remove the bronze filter and now the oil leaking around my valve cover has stopped. I’m considering just venting to atmosphere using a differnt can
You forgot to mention that on a diesel there is no vacuum in the intake. I have not seen any butterfly flaps on that intake system. And most diesels have no PCV valve. they just have a tube out of the headcover. It's always at atmospheric pressure so the catch can setup needs to be changed. The OCC setup with baffles and the filter inside is used on most gas cars that have Vacuum in the intake and it works great there cause it's being drawn out.
Most diesel engines have no vacuum in the intake and use the OCC setup with baffels, ehich then is usually vented to open atmosphere through an outside open filter or intake without internal filter cause it is being pushed out with a positive pressure in the crank case. For a diesel we usually use a bigger catch can or larger diameter path ways so the air slows down but the volume is the same
Thank you so much for the explanation. No occ for my truck.👍
I almost have OCC installed on my Montero but neglected having bought one after viewing your video. thanks
You should watch reputable mechanic vloggers not this uneducated frustrated mechanic/engineer 😂 watch Scotty KILMER and other respectable mechanic vloggers instead of watching this wanna be. 😂
Big agree Sir, palaging nanood about tutorials mo sir. GODBLESS
Why i dont install an OCC using REAL OCC part2 lol
ruclips.net/video/rMzFMcHrAyU/видео.html
Filter inside OCC will increase the resistance and slowing down the breather airflow, i recommend you to instal 2 small OCC so it can match the airflow speed.
That is why I always build or modify my catch cans, there must be free flow from the crankcase at all times otherwise you need a higher flow condenser or OCC. The air filter separator shown is designed to filter COMPRESSED air and separate water from it, totally different situation, however, the video is a great warning for OCC users. Routing up far the hose from the pcv to the OCC inlet may also cause some oil condensation which will run back to the pcv NOT a good thing.
Thanks for the demonstration, I'm thinking of venting the PVC to the atmosphere. Maybe that will solve both problems, LOL
Back in the day before the government got involved in destroying the automotive industry that is exactly where it went.
what in information.... DIY ASAP, back to stock. Thank you for that great information
What a logical explanation.
Please do one explaining Water-Meth Injection in a Diesel engine.
I hear people claiming 20% more power and up to 5 MPG more wilst cleaning your engine.
I’ve been a gearhead for 60-years and I’ve never heard the abbreviation OCC. AnyWho, good video, so thanks for posting .
you are correct in your case as the flow is slowed a lot via your line having a small drier. if you have a larger air drier you have more surface area you will haved much much much more flow. same applies to OCC. and ditch the bronze filter. OCC cans, not necessary. Id suggest a can style occ that uses swirl and not filter. Very little to no loss of flow and velocity. A high output direct injection turbo engine really needs a OCC to evacuate blow by and crank case vapors as to prolong valve cleanliness. My experience in high output performance. They work as intended with no rising crank case pressure or loss of flow as ive installed and tested, they did not have bronze filtration as well.
I strip out the screen and filter and replace with a stainless steel pot scrubber pad. Adding all this surface area gives gobs of oil catching surface with only a little pressure drop. Site it in a high temperature area like above a catalyst to drive out moisture of combustion and any fuel vapors.
How about having a suction pump to compensate the loss of speed of suction together with the OCC. So when they sell any OCC product, it must be sold with a suction pump .
Thank you 🙏., this was very informative, I was hesitant on installing a occ for my engine , your video convince me enough not to do it 👍🏻
What if I used one of the OCCs with the removable bronze filter and removed that then placed steel wool in the can under that plate with holes. That should allow the air to flow through at a good rate but still give area for the oils to collect on right?
Been thinking about the same idea.
yeah. built a maze like occ that catches oil without restricting the gas flow. Post the vids when u r done.
I have tried a mishimoto occ on two of my gasoline engined cars and Ive noticed that when i rev my cars hard , the catch can does catch a lot of oil but it also causes a leak at my oil filter gasket. I figured that the blow by gases arent venting out as efficiently and its pressurizing the crankcase .
Thanks for the eye opener , shall un- install the catch cans from my cars
I’m dealing with a 2.4 eco tech where the PCV system is fed by a tiny metering hole in the intake which clogs constantly since it’s directly below the throttle body which is directly below the port on the airbox, so crud drips down almost in a straight line from the PCV exhaust right into the PCV intake port….. so you sort of have to choose the cause of your blow by, extra tubes and filters or clogged PCV intake.
And even with the filters gotta regularly take off the intake and clean it out…. Don’t buy an eco tech….
I was going to install an OCC but your video convinced me otherwise. The blow by side effect is not worth it. Will just have the turbo cleaned when needed.
Please 🙏 give me a solution to stop the oil coming in my air intake with out catch can
Isn't the engine a sealed container? You can only remove blowby as quickly as it is displaced by more blowby. Vehicles don't have an active pressurized ventilation system that has more pressure than the blowby that could route fresh air from a part of the engine pushing the blowby gases to the CCV.
@@Vyveris ruclips.net/video/N5TCxmJPFuU/видео.htmlsi=0wq8y3-l9-XIGFLQ
What about ones like racing lines catch can for a golf 7r with just a baffle plate but no filter media restriction like your seeing in that typical oil catch can. Would you not get the best of both worlds then?
Yes that will happen of you don't drain/clean it every oil change. Don't put it on of you don't want the extra maintenance.
On a turbocharged diesel, no manifold vacuum to pull the crankcase fumes/vapor out. Best to just run a road tube.
If you can feel the blowby from the dipstick tube when the engine is revved under some load then: Step1 - check the PCV valve. It that's OK then: Step 2 - consider a catch can. Or, if you own a VW or BMW then you can ignore step 1 and 2 since you are going to need it eventually anyway. To load the engine slip the clutch or put transmission in drive with foot firmly on the brake for a second or 2. Really helps to have a helper to do this '- ) EDIT: I always stand on the side of the car with my feet away from the front tire when doing this.
Great explanation, thank you so much.
I bought a ssangyong musso 2006 turbo diesel 2.9L a year ago , the inlet manifold was found full of black paste. the engine ventilation from the rocker cover is connected to after air filter and before the turbo. what do I need to do to prevent the build up of carbon and oil at the inlet manifold again please? thanks in advance
Very informative brother love from Pakistan
@Mr.DIYer - I cant udnerstand your video you say dont install oil catch can ??? the blowbye gas and oil goes to the manifold is this better it damages all components,injektor etc... I have a Mercedes c270 cdi 2001 and I have this Problem too much oil in my intake tract - my Turbo is new manifold is new the crankcase ventilation is new ???
I have a ram 2500 with a Cummins 6.7 engine. It has a crank case vent filter that filters the crank case exhaust. Doesn’t that slow the venting the same as a catch can ?
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my car has OCC on for almost 8 years now. Never had any engine issues. Just doing designated PMS maintenance all the way
Thank you for that video! Very well explained :) Had to experience this issue first hand. Oil spilled out my engine under boost pressure, now I know why. Gonna throw out my OCC immediatly
No you need a check valve
This is a good video but also need clarity. The engine you demonstrated is a Diesel engine. Usually they don’t have vacuum in the intake manifold. Adding a catch can to this obviously doesn’t create the necessary vacuum to draw the pressure in the crank. That is why when you added the OCC and took out dipstick, it showed oil spilling out of it. Some modern diesel engine have a vacuum pump to create negative pressure for brake booster and also for negative crank case pressure.
Now on gasoline engine, the intake manifold creates a negative pressure due to throttle being close at idle. A los of engine have two or more vents in the valve cover. One that goss in the intake manifold for negative pressure and a second that goes from the valve cover to the intake line before the throttle for positive pressure. Again it was a great demonstration you did but it needed little more detail since you were using a diesel engine as your demonstration.
Thank. This very important!
So I have just added an OCC to my mustang. I put around a 100 miles on it and I can tell that there is a residual of oil within the can and stinks like oil vapors, but no liquid forming at the bottom of the can yet.
I was simply checking to see if there was anything in it at the 100 miles after install. I didn't think there would be, but my reason in checking it also, was my car seems to be running poorly to a degree. I noticeable hitch when I get on it. I'm in the process changing out the pcv as it looks old and for a short time the pcv hose was not connected as we just put a supercharger on it, and we had to run the passenger side pcv hose to cc and the out from the air intake tube to the cc. From the drivers side valve cover, we ran a hose to the air intake tube just after the maf.
I'm just worried I'm not getting good crank case pressure relief with this install, or maybe this has nothing to do with it and I'm running really rich. I'm in the process of checking that out as well.
Any thoughts would be appreciated
Thanks
What is you findings
@@leishi1950it just so happened to be chilly the day I checked the reservoir. good results finally when it warmed up and put some miles on it.
It was breathing just fine through the pcv.
@@alfenner3309 that is great to hear which occ do you put in. I'm in the same place. Worries about the built up pressure in the crankcase and also worries about the hose cannot handle vacuum maybe clapsed
What you suggest? Clean the crankcase hose periodically?
Great explanation and presentation!
in your opinion, the provent 200 model can give the same problem?
What is most often misunderstood is that an oil catch can does act the same way as an air compressor water separator. The effect is the same. Vacuum has to be reduced in the line for the separation to take place. Also, the added hose length and canister volume reduces vacuum evacuation of the crankcase. Reduced vacuum evacuation of the crankcase is harmful to the engine. Repairing the engine's bottom end is more costly and labor intensive than cleaning the upper intake system. Also, using a good Dexos approved synthetic oil will help keep carbon deposits in suspension and prevent them from clinging onto internal engine components. 3-5000 mile oil changes will help too. ruclips.net/video/FW0wCl-O7oY/видео.html
lol, if its plumbed back into the intake after the catch can, and it is sealed there is zero difference than just having it plugged into the intake.
@@matthewfarrell317 The filtration in the catch can may create more vacuum obstruction. Some are better than others.
@@cometcal2 The demonstration in the video is misleading because the water separator is a much greater constriction compared to a catch can. I'm not certain how significant a role intake manifold vacuum plays in evacuating pressure from the crankcase. The only way to be sure is to redo the demonstration with a actual OCC to see if the difference in blowby at the dipstick port is as great as was shown in this video
vacuum should be unchanged in a sealed system. It may move faster to the larger space, but within no time it should balance out upon start up. I'd say it works more like a baffle on a suppressor. There's no large change as long as there's not a lot of baffles and the trip is short and low velosity. 45 vs 223 for instance. Power not rpms...in the engine world. This is just not a significant barrier, but it'll work like a cooling tower and allow gases to cool, carbon and heavier liquids drop while the gases continue. I'm thinking out loud here so I hope this makes sense.
@@shootinbruin3614 I agree. It would be helpful to see air flow test results with various catch cans.
A very logical explanation, OCC will increase the workload on the piston and crank components...
Good day Sir. As always, thank you for the very informative video. May I ask Sir, what will happen if the occ has big enough cavities that will not hinder the flow of blow by gases?
I agree with you he had the wrong type of filter,you can use stainless dish cleaner sort of like wire wool ,much better flow,dont think his truck was turboed either,more blow by on older engines
I did not install my OCC that I bought in US..thanks for the info..
@@acc1tester398 Oil Catch Can
the fact that you dont have a airfilter or airbox on will play into factor aswell. if there isn't vacum at the port for the ventilation tube, then it wont be properly vented. you need this vacum in order for a occ to function properly. by having the intake open like you do in the video. the port wont see vacum
Hi, finally someone with a brain !
I have an m57 bmw diesel twin turbo. I measured suction on the hose on intake part on idle and is very low. On 3000 rpm there is quite a lot . The blow by makes my oil have condensation if i let it in the intake. I put a hose as old draft under car and put new oil. 200 mile oil is perfect . Like new . I have egr and dpf delete . Dpf is empty inside.
I understand catch can problem , i agree, we need to vent fast.
How about an electric turbine 12 v extractor ? Help vent under car in atmosphere. It would make vacuum as the intake. Could measure to match the vacuum and fit big enough extractor fan .
Yeah but this works for boosted engines. I have a 2005 Pontiac GTO LSA suoer chargered and I have a catch can. The blow by oil goes into the catch can and I drain it once every 2 months .. or depending on how much I drive it. This OVC may not work for OEM applications but they are necessary for boosted engines
Wow! Thank you for this video!
In DI gasoline injection can slower built of carbon deposits on intakes and valves. Because this deposits is built of burned oil and other impurities from engine
keep doing helpful videos sir, keep it up God bless
Sir.,ive got a diesel land cruiser prado with 1kd engine., my car was blowing oil coming out from dipstick. Is it be cause of excessive blowby?
Clear and concise expalnation! OCC sellers will hate you lol
Lol
That's a cheap OCC set up on a diesel engine. A good quality OCC comes with connections and hoses made for the specific vehicle application, and it does NOT restrict flow. If you bothered to read the manufacturers data sheets and independent testing, you would know that.
Lol
@@MrDIYer 8 months later you're still pedaling this crap. Get over it. 🙄 Have you ever heard of the Dunning-Kruger effect.
@@michaelblodgett4704 lol
@@michaelblodgett4704 lol
You have a good presentation. I think I will NOT install OCC
My catch can came with a tiny cone shaped air filter that can be placed on top. Im guessing this is intended for a vent to air system? So i could simply plug the pcv hole on the intake and just let it vent to air through the cone shaped filter 🤔
2006 Subaru sti. Thinking about installing one
Why do all 4x4 diesel offroaders fit provent oil catch cans?
Cause they are clueless. Diesels have ZERO need for catch cans they provide NO benefit
Does it work in 4ja1 diesel engine?
Thats not OCC, that water separator work with high air pressure like 5 bars, but in engine, the air go out with no pressure, so it will prevent the air to go out free.
I have a occ breather tank it doesnt have a bronze filter will it still do this high pressure thing
first, oil catch can designed for direct injection gasoline or diesel engine, especialy turbo
second, if you want to install it, open it and inspect inside it, because bronze filter is the problem, remove it
most occ user just leave outlet side from occ to the air
and block inlet side in intake line
because on diesel engine use egr
if you leave this stock
oil vapor + black somoke from egr wil block your intake manifold
and most authorized service does not have SOP to clean it
For that old engine a catch can is not needed and no telling what it might do. Only direct injected engines require a CC since the fuel (which has additives to clean valves) does not spray on the valve as in a port injected engine. So the catch can captures oil in the PCV system that might be in the PCV system that is used to vent the crankcase to the intake manifold. That is all a catch can does...intercept any oil in the PCV system from being sprayed on the intake valves.
What an Interesting video. I'm assuming that the car you used in your illustration is a diesel. What interested .e was when you attached that one way valve and got blow out through the dip stick tube. A faulty/blocked PCV can also cause blow out through the dip stick tube. I know this through person experience.
However what about a V6 petrol vehicle like the Lexus is250? What is your view about fitting an OCC to one of these cars?