is a Catch Can Destroying my ENGINE?
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- Опубликовано: 10 июн 2024
- Is a Catch Can slowly destroying my 4WD? Do you even need a catch can on a old deisel 4x4?
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When I first bought a dual cab, I was kinda blown away by the amount of daily "do I need a catch can?" and everyone throwing their money at provent and ryco ones on FB groups. In the performance car community we've always been using the baffled Cusco style ones on high powered street, drift, track cars for the last 20 years, they just work. I really don't remember the last thread on a forum about crankcase pressure unless talking about rings being worn. Then again FB has killed forums and all the good info a long with that.
Some things in the 4wd community are just strange to me, some products are just really average and get a foothold in the market and people just go crazy for them. People paying a fortune for top mount intercooler kits, expensive stainless snorkels ($100 worth of mandrel bent pipe), off the shelf bolt on exhausts over $1200 and 4wd turbo kits with compressor/turbine wheels already decades old in design but more expensive than a modern Garrett. I swear, a lot of this stuff is just made to rip 4wd enthusiasts off.
Yep I do a fair bit of offroad use and I think the only "4x4" accessories I have bought is a winch rope and a snatch block also tyres the rest of the other things I have used better alternatives and made most stuff myself for better durability than the accessory garbage that's for sale at 3 times the price it cost to make... and yes my "catch can" is literally a 1.25 coke bottle with 3 hoses feeding into it 2 from rocker cover 1 down to chassis rail
@@bingysbackyard Agreed 100%.
I'm a firm believer in the "KISS" method..."Keep It Simple Stupid"...☺
I’ve an ex Army Landrover 110, can’t agree more. I do fundraising offroad weekends and I’ve paid less all up than most have paid in added unnecessary accessories. Army had catch cans, will be checking my crank case pressure tomorrow after seeing this.
people are just dumber these days. all there is too it.
I just got a ryco catch can don't tell me this :( did install it myself tho.
Oil vapour going through the intake is fine. It's when the vapour cools and becomes sludgy oil again which is the problem.
When I started working as a technician catch cans never had filters. They were the stainless steel baffled type. This worked perfectly as it acted like an intercooler for the PCV, cooling the hot oil vapour and make it liquid again.
Plastic catch cans are obviously cheaper to produce. Unfortunately plastic is an insulator preventing the vapour from cooling, so they needed to add a filter to clean the air.
This added restriction to the PCV which is clearly not good.
Get a metal baffled one.....
Yes and stop getting those filters that just clogged up! Catch cans are made to catch oil not filter it. SMH
Ok, the filter is giving you surface area for the oil mist to collect , becoming droplets that end up in the “can”
Best idea is take the filter out and replace it with a course steel wool, this would give more surface area but no air flow restriction…well that’s what I found…hope it helps
Your steel wool to fine, used course ones
@@mohammadnoormauludadnan1847 stainless steel ones are best
this is wat i have done in the past
+ bigger hoses and issues solved :)
Yes. I am using loose-knitted SS pot-scrubbing pads and a heavily baffled inlet tube that runs to the bottom of the can to help evenly disperse the vapor throughout the SS wool filter. In my 4"X7" catch can with 1" entry and exit ports. Having great results. The can is equipped with a 3/8" ball check drain valve.
Relevant video Pat. The other thing to consider is hose size, joints used and filter flow properties... imagine your blowing up a balloon that's super soft and has a large mouth piece, it's easy. Then try and blow up a water balloon (tiny opening, thick rubber) it's super hard to blow up...
Catch cans need to vent a relevant amount of air for the motor they're installed on and the hoses and fittings used need to accommodate this air flow too. And yes always clean the filter, just like you would your air filter, oil filter, cabin filter.... it's not filtering if it's full, then it's just blocking.
Provent catch cans have a safety blow off valve which you will certainly see as black oil is all around the outside of the vent.
IMO there is nothing to worry about if the catch can has been designed properly.
Yes my 6.4 /2008 F350 oil filler cap would almost blow out of my fingers. Removed the CCV hose return after the cold air filter plugged the hole going back to the engine to be returned. The CCV is now being vented into the atmosphere. Now run that line through a 1" ID tube to a large 4"X7" catch can with multiple baffles and packed with loose SS pot scrubby pads with a 1.5" open chamber at the bottom of the catch can to create a reservoir to collect any oil and other contaminants. This reservoir has a 3/8" ball check drain valve on the bottom to drain the collected oil and contaminants. The catch can is showing good airflow exiting the can. The CCV pressure seems much less as the oil filter cap no longer floats over the oil filler hole. The catch can is filtered and remains vented to the atmosphere. Now engine seals and gaskets no longer have high pressure being forced against them. That could lead to premature failure. ❤ 👍
This has certainly raised some important questions. I feel to test if properly though, you should of purchased a new filter and retested. Filters gets blocked and will cause restrictions in any matter of flow, whether it be air, oil or fuel.
Love to hear Dan's opinions on this topic
This is Awesome information all catch can owners need to consider. Especially Mishimoto catch cans with the screw bronze filter at the top of the can. It creates way too much back pressure in the PVC line and pressurizes the crankcase. Good catch Arvos!!!! Cheers from Michigan usa.
Catch cans are really only beneficial for a few reasons. An oily intercooler will be less efficient, and also oil mixed with egr soot can cause a blockage in the intake manifold. So yes, catch cans have a place for sure. But the filter is absolutely not necessary unless the catch can is designed to use that filter media as part of the oil removal process. Better designs are like Cross country 4x4's baffle design, and hpd uses a kind of steel wool design to catch the micro oil droplets. Both ive seen working personally, as a former employee of cross country 4x4 and running the dyno there, we frequently saw new oil leaks appear after installing these filter type catch cans, removed them and installed our own design and saw same or better oil removal ability, and also stopping oil seal leaks and just required a good clean, since theres actually nothing wrong with the seals, they just aren't designed to hold pressure. Also grant from cross country designed a baffle plate for the 1hz and 1hdt engine that prevents oil flicking off the cam and straight into the open port for egr, which seems to make a huge improvement even without a catch can, so you may be interested in that yourself!
Great comment, thank you 👍
I wouldn't recommend a filtered CC. They clog up heaps quicker and get the pressure build up. Baffled or even an alloy one away from the heat as much as possible so the vapors condense. Nice work on the video lads. EGR is a different issue and just a couple of electronic mods can eliminate the clogging intake from a EGR. I have 3.2l Pajero and did the mod at 2500Ks. It now got 160000Ks on the clock and blows no smoke and still has heaps of power with no strip down of the intake manifold needed.
I don't understand why people would even install these. They need maintenance every few tens of thousands of km, things to change and replace in them etc. Why do all this, when you can just buy a new PCV valve in the same interval of time?
What electronic mod deals with EGR and the resulting gunge?
Berrima Diesel had a video not long back saying definitely don’t fit one to an 80 or other older diesel motors. I’m getting rid of my one. Thanks for the vid 👍
PS all my in put is in real time the 06 of May 2024 ❤👍good luck and never stop asking questions and looking for improvements. But one thing for sure is the loest Crank case presure is better on seals and gaskets preventing oil from leaking all over your engine.
Contrary to what the internet says… catch cans are certainly not a mandatory mod. A diesel in good condition, driven at operating temps should be fine. It’s short drives and heaps of cold starts where engine tolerances aren’t optimal is where the dramas start. Modern diesels included
Isn't that most people though? At least the other half who have to also use their diesel for commutes/shopping during the week.
@@mickypoo yep. That’s partially my point. Clogged inlets are a small minority. And Most people don’t have catch cans
Certainly not mandatory, but it's important to have a can that doesn't add to the crankcase pressure if you do add one. I've run a home built can for almost 20 years on my gasser (3FE) with no leaks beyond the long-present oil pan seal leak, which is very slight anyway. The can has done great for keeping my intake manifold clean and preventing sludge buildup on my intake valves (last checked with a boroscope about three years ago).
That short drive story is used by so many people but it's wrong.
Most engines are at operating temp within 5 to 10 minutes.
I've had many diesels at work with clogged intakes and they have long commutes.
The biggest factor to diesel engines clogging their intake apart from the EGR is oil choice. I still know mechanics in the trade that think Delo 500 is the best oil for all diesels.
When they're run on the correct oil they can do 7500km intervals if the intervals are 15km. See this is the conundrum 15km intervals are for highway use city use ie the wives tale short trip story should be 7.5km intervals with the correct oil.
Well done on an objective coverage of the issue, without hysterics.
A perfect example of how brand snobby people wouldn’t be right in this situation by not running a cheap baffle catch can that wouldn’t restrict. And also surely supercheap is taking the piss with $115 for a filter
I have a HPD can which doesn't have a fibrous filter, it has a perforated cylinder which just gives a surface for the vapour to hit and then drain off of so it doesn't block flow unless you do not empty the collected oil out of it. I have had mine on for over 100,000km on my V9X Navara which is a heavy breather and have had no leaks from the rear main at all.
Hi guys Berrimah diesel quotes old diesel like the 1HZ design don’t need a catch can your wasting your money. They have made many videos about catch cans
Hear about it all the time on modern Utes too, a lot of tuners don’t recommend them these days. Just extend the breather into the chassis rail for some rust prevention 😉
1940's "road draft tube".....popular until the 1960's
Have a look at photos of old American concrete freeways....
A huge oil streak right down the middle of each lane where the dripping oil just fell on the ground.....
@@JohnSmith-yv6eq still see a bit of it today hahaha
@@JohnSmith-yv6eq lol yeah some roads still have them around the place.
@@JohnSmith-yv6eq iv seen cars with them in particular the 4jj1 Isuzu motors that have had them in the chassis rail for tens of thousands of kms and never had one drip. Can see a little bit of oil vapor that’s it.
@@Jay151 Go to China and make them change,see how it goes for you....
Thanks fellas just found my problem with my 08 Hilux gonna get rid of the filter today. Blown rear seal at 45,000 KMs.
Thanks Pat for your two cents. I have a Ryco CC on my ZD Patrol, I was having issues with lots of smoke on start up I was thinking I have done valve stem seals. I just recently changed the filter for it and there is no more smoke. I was getting ready to send in my spare head for a reco.
I had a billet aluminum CC with steel wool inside, in the car before and i changed it because the gaskets on were leaking so I "upgraded". i never had a smoking issue before with the old CC.
I will go and test with no filter now.
paper filters are just another way automotive parts producers rip you off
I just have a cheap baffle catch can no restriction...So I'd say it depends but I always had my doubts about the 'filtered' pro $ types.
Do your rear main bro, run it through your chassis rail extra rust protection 😂
Hey boys, great conversation starter this one. Hope you can follow this up soon with a comparison with the new filter. Also love to hear Dan's opinion on this.
My opinion is that catch cans are only useful on diesels with EGR, as the oil in the blowby only causes a problem if it is heated by the exhaust gases which that cause it to solidify and block up the intake. This doesnt happen without an EGR.
Better option is to delete EGR through tune or delete cable, don’t really need a catch can if EGR not being used
My experience can hold a stand here that my 3.0 AUDI TDI got a diesel runaway after a year of OCC usage. The crankcase pressure buildup was slow but steady, eventually leading to my valve cover gasket blowing up, causing a large amount of oil to spill. The most damage was done to the small oil pathways, which are more sensitive to oil pressure changes, such as the oil cooling system in the turbo. The pressure eventually burst the cooling tunnel in my turbo, letting the working turbo suck in a massive amount of oil directly into the combustion chamber and financially contribute to the catastrophic runaway event.
@@trophybanana OMG, that's really bad.
Great video. I use a coarse stainless scoura washer pads from hardware store. It breath’s better and keeps oil separate.
Just run a few steel wool scrubber in the catch can without the paper element. It won't stop all the oil, but it will reduce it and no chance of it blocking up as long as you remember to empty it. Similar principle to the HPD catch cans
I’m a mechanic and all cars need a catch can in my opinion especially modern cars that burn 3L of oil between services mostly through the PCV valve (looking at you VW)
I’ve fitted a couple Ryco and provent catch cans and to be honest I think they’re a bad design a baffled catch can is much better opposed to one with a filter element inside
Also a ryco catch can filter being $110 is a ridiculous additional maintenance cost when a simple baffled catch can with a drain is cost free to maintain
Hey mate out of interest - why are baffled so much better than filtered?
@@tom6549 so you think it’s a good idea for VWs to burn 3L of oil through the engine and that that’s healthy for it???
Petrol engines are still effected by carbon buildup hence why VWs ping their engines to death especially when run on 91 like most of them are
@@1RednBlue there’s basically no restriction but the oil will hit the baffles and drop to the bottom of the can
Won’t stop all the oil but will still stop the majority, i have a customer with a navara that empties his baffled type catch can every 5000km because it’s full so they clearly work well
The ones with filters inside are too much of a restriction and in addition to the PCV valve and is why manufacturers hate them well why they hate catch cans in general
@@tom6549 also I know a local dealer who are getting mechanics I worked with to come in and do carbon cleans on their new DI vehicles
Also ask Subaru why they have been selling upper cylinder cleaner aka carbon cleaner as a service item since the early 2000s before DI petrol was around
Perhaps 3 tests are the go. The clogged filter, no filter and a new filter. Also check for other blockages.
Very good content. Worth discussing this topic further. Can we have Dan's input on this. Thanks AussieArvos...👍😊
Leave the guy alone ;) Now Dan has to spend time chasing this up when there is nothing more to discuss - you don't need a catch can or the manufacturers would have fitted it, but if you want a catch can, get one that introduces minimum restriction.
Good video and a very contentious subject indeed. I think the problem is that catch can setups invariably have long piping and/or even too-narrow hoses/passages. This can all cause excess crankcase pressure and can very well lead to weeping or blown seals. Look at the piping on a typical gasoline engine where it exits the PCV valve, and it's a very short pipe that leads directly to the intake manifold. This is at-odds in comparison to a catch can setup with very long piping...and potentially narrow hoses which can potentially build additional crankcase pressure, especially at higher RPMs.
The amount of oil there will have something to do with how long between checking also, was it the same duration for both tests?
I *believe* it's from the earlier versions of catch cans. I know that Provent has released a different type of inner-lid last year as I got one with my replacement filter.
Yep. Get a catch can with a pressure relief valve as an integral part of it.
Breather hose straight into the chassis
Shouldn't need too if doesn't have egr wouldn't it just burn it off anyway if there no egr?
Another great video and very interesting topic, I myself had same blowby with my turbo 1HZ but since changing my catch can filter every time i do an oil change so every 7k of driving it gets a new filter and the blowby doesn't seem to be an issue. i do want to put a front mount intercooler on in the near future and dont want it full of oil.
Great vid lads. Nailed it!
Super video and topic! Reading the comments doesn't help me decide which route to go 🤣. I think if you have an older vehicle and fit a catch can, like others were saying the type you use and the hose size and how you route it all plays a key role. In older vehicles it will become apparent sooner that pressure is becoming a problem like your case. I have a 2022 F350 powerstroke which has EGR and I'm not sure if I should install a catch can or just pay to have the intake cleaned every so often. When it comes down to it a quality catch can designed for the newer vehicle is recommended but that can be around 400+ usd. And doesn't catch every vapor. I could probably have the intake cleaned for that much
Did you think that maybe just maybe it was time for the rear main seal to let go?
Yeah 100% could be that too, I was just curious into whether the catch could had accelerated this happening
But the rate of oil leaking when the engine runs can be minimised by "sucking" the crankcase to a slight vacuum...?
The catch cans sole job is to catch oil particals it doesn't change the amount of pressure even though you kind of proved it does... I changed the rear seal on mine when the clutch went then fitted the provent knock off catch can 7 years no leak
I am so glad you did a video on catch cans. Been building/modifying turbo's for over 30 years and the diesel turbo's that leak oil are common and All have catch cans. This is very common were the owner thinks the turbo is stuffed the it is only leaking because the sump is pressurised from a poor catch can.
Thanks.
Glenn
Seen this a few times first thing i check now if the breather is blocked.
Thanks for the comment Glen! I really appreciate the info!
I made a mistake on my td42 when installing the turbo . silly mistake but thought I blew the turbo but that wasn't the case. was just that the turbo wouldn't drain oil and started spitting oil out the exhaust . all due to crank case presure . I don't think the amount of presure your talking about would cause the rear main seal to leak . or likely to see your turbo leaking oil out into your exhaust
@@mathewsimonelli1332 Crank case pressure can cause the turbo seal to leak on older engines especially if the seals are older and not 100% perfect. I see this all the time and common on diesel engines mostly with catch cans. Not with the same mileage/ age petrol engines because not common or trendy to fit catch cans on petrol turbo engines.
Another thing is people having the turbo drain too low on the sump, below the oil level causes preasure in the turbo to push the oil out too
The rear main is gone on my 80 and my catch can is old and would be blocked. And the CDL actuator has just gone on mine. Your channel is so relatable 😂
Thank you very very much for this video haha, you’ve just solved most of my problems 😂
Not all catch cans are created equal. Try installing a different catch can (ie. filterless etc), and see if that makes a difference for you.
Agreed. Those catch cans that come with stainless steel “wool” ones will unlikely cause the back pressure
I put a catch can on my Wifes old GU, never had any leaks beforehand, 3 weeks after the install, it leaked heavily from the main seal and the rear of the rocker cover, rocker cover gasket was only done 8 months before, I won't be putting one in her D40 she now has and it's currently leak free serviced every 5000kms with no worries
Ryco had known issues on their older catch cans and they bought out a newer model to fix the problem which allowed the system to breath. I have a Provent 200 and their lid allows to the system to breath and never had issues. The Provent lid fits what feels loose but is designed that way. Is yours the older model ?
Catch cans work and anyone who thinks they're not necessary is telling worng! The problem is you're buying those with the filters that just clogged up! Catch cans are made to catch oil not filter it. By the metal one with the baffles that don't clogge
The provent has 2 valves to ensure that the pressure does not get high. The 1st is the main pressure regulator where the air comes out towards the air filter. I has a spring and according to provent the max pressure at 100% load = 10mbar (1kpa). There is also a safety valve under the lid. If you don't change the filter and it gets blocked then it will open and oil vapour will come out from the lid and make a mess.
If you have a leaking main seal it is just a bad main seal and maybe the catch can back pressure is enough to increase the leak. My 1HD-T 240,000Ks had a provent and it needed changing. The oil leaked out of the lid so it had max back pressure and no main seal leak.
Hi Glen Munro. The CT26 turbo you did for me a couple of years ago is going a treat
Hear about it all the time on modern Utes too, a lot of tuners don’t recommend them these days. Just extend the breather into the chassis rail for some rust prevention
hahahalololol
Great vid guys... looking forward to the vid with the new filter
We used to use stainless steel scourers in catch cans, i imagine a paper style filter element would block very quickly. Keep in mind, too much pressure from the sump, blowby, can be compression ring(s) wearing out
Man that thing is a beast. I love it.
I'm very wary of using Ryco anything on my cars these days as they aren't always suited to engines with specific requirements. My EJ22 powered Subaru was my example. The factory oil filter for this engine has a release valve that's set to release at a specific oil pressure. When I was using Ryco filters, I found that I was getting failures of the oil seals around the camshafts and front of the crankshaft due to too much pressure blowing clean past them.
After having all these replaced to stop the oil leaks, I switched to using the Genuine Filter from my dealer (which amusingly enough, is about $10 cheaper for the Japanese made genuine filter vs the Mexican now Chinese made copy) and haven't had an issue since. Seals last the 100000k service interval, no leaks. Something to consider, perhaps a higher quality unit might be worth considering, though that engine got along just fine without a catch can for so long. :)
Having come from a spare parts background both in an aftermarket and dealership environment, I can give you a fun fact.
I worked at a Mitsubishi dealership for four years in spares, and they had laser cut EGR valve blanking plates for the diesel Tritons, because the high SAPS (sulfated ash, phosphorus and sulfur) content in the oil, mixed with exhaust gas would coke up the intake manifolds and cause a lot of warranty issues.
Their fix was to block the EGR and reprogram the ECU (yep, modern diesel).
You don't have this issue in an indirect or direct injection diesel engine from the 90's, but definitely a problem with a modern Common Rail Diesel engine.
The only time you would fit a catch can to a modern diesel is if its a turbo diesel, which the majority are.
Older diesel engines, I wouldn't bother with it, even if they have a turbo strapped onto it.
To purely cut the bs out of it a catch can is to catch the oil collection in the air that would otherwise hit your intake and make a build up of crud and oil. The most common issue ive seen is people install and never replace those filters and go off how many KMs the filter says it lasts. But really those tests were done under ideal conditions and apply to only 15% at best of the cars on the road. When in realisticly you should see how much comes out when you drain it everyweek and check the filter. But people want a set and forget option which isnt the case. I service my diesels on hours they run not kms. I do an oil change monthly on my old girls and 3 monthly on my newer diesels. People get pissy hearing this but its what keeps them in good nick. Cheers boys love watching your content.
I was always confused by peoples obsession with catch cans. If you dont have an egr or common rail why would you need one? I think this is a huge failure on the 4x4 industry recomending them. Berrima deisel have a great comon sense video on this exact issue.
Well said I have an 80 too, you don’t need one on the old diesels haha, new ones however I think you do
@@AXDBTW that doesn’t make sense, so you wouldn’t t put one on an old diesel car but you’d put one on a new car and stuff up the rear main seal?
Yeah no doubt mate ya probably right there. I also rember a video roothy done at terain tamer while building Milo 2 where he put a catch can on a 12ht and recommended anyone with a diesel engine to put one on. I'm the world's most basic mechanic was always a bit bamboozled by it all. It's just been great marketing by the industry convincing alot of people that they need something they really don't.
So I have a 06 mustang 4.0 v6 that is supercharged. I'm confused by this as well with my own scenario. The pcv has essentially been deleted, meaning the hoses are no longer on the pcv valve passenger side and drivers side ccv. My egr has been deleted as well. Mostly because of the install of the supercharger and it taking up the room to put back on, but after doing some research the egr delete is a good thing with superchargers. I live where no emissions are a thing, so me personally am not worried about that.
So I'm thinking of adding a oil breather cap and a closed loop 3 port catch can to connect to the pcv and ccv. The "out" hose I'll run to the frame of the car and thus should theoretically get a bit of ventilation out of that as well.
Your thoughts?
Thanks
@@06hunter54 Yes, the older diesel engines don’t have egr so you don’t need one, it’s a complete waste of time. The problem is with later diesel’s and the egr. The pvc returns engine vapour to the intake manifold so it leaves an oily residue in the manifold which is not a problem but when the egr valve opens it allows exhaust to enter the inlet manifold at the same time. The egr is not open all the time, only under certain light driving conditions, but when it is open the oil vapour and soot from the exhaust mixes together to for an almost cement like build up. This can eventually block the intake manifold. The catch can is designed to catch and separate the oil vapour before it goes into the inlet manifold thereby reducing the buildup of gunk in the manifold. A catch can is not a maintenance free item and the can needs to be drained periodically, I do mine every six months just before my Cruiser goes in for a service and the filters need to be changed at specified intervals. It can be surprising to see not only how much oil drains out but the amount of water too. Just to note the egr only opens at light throttle and below about 60km/h if memory serves me correctly so vehicles that do a lot of highway miles have much less of a problem. The whole Exhaust Gas Recirculation system is only for pollution reduction. There are different methods for disabling the egr such as blocking plates but these can cause error codes, there are ways around that, and more recent are plug and play computer chips that trick the ecu into to keeping the egr valves closed without throwing up error codes. These are for pre dpf vehicles. I have a 2020 Sahara so it’s got the dpf as well so that’s a whole other issue that I knew nothing about when I ordered the car. I had a particular set of circumstances that lead us to ordering the car over the phone without even sitting in one or going into the dealership. So far I have had no issues with the dpf and it’s very easy to see how it’s going, the automatic regeneration work perfectly but if I need to do a manual regeneration it’s just a press a button, but again it’s just something to keep an eye on. I hope this helps to clarify why later diesel engines can benefit from a catch can. Cheers Stuart.
Great video and content again. This information could save some people thousands.
check out berima diesel, they talk about catch cans all the time, sure in older clunkers you dont need them
Are you sure that’s hooked up correctly ? 🤣
I was thinking the same thing, I’m going to put one on my 80 because I found oil in the bottom of the intercooler
I was wondering if you have the sump at half full level, the oil might not leak out of the rear main seal?
Great Video Guys👍
Yes catch cans do restrict the original airflow intended for cars to have but there’s one simple solution or fix. Just install a one way check valve crankcase breather to replace your regular engine oil cap. That way the crankcase pressure is released and problem solved. This is my own personal setup for my 2023 Ford F150 5.0 Coyote and it works perfectly! I went with the company UPR for my catch can and one way check valve crankcase breather.
Now that's why the Aliexpress bootleg Provent 200 uses mesh filters
Hey mate,
I have identical car 92 1HDT. Had a fresh rebuild running perfectly. Put the provent that the car had on it before rebuild and rear main hosed out. Removed catch can and bone dry. Has been perfect with no catch can ever since
I'm 14 and am in the process of buying my second 4wd project (first was a rust bucket subaru brumby). I loved your Paj, Patrick, so the new (old) rig is a 1998 3.5l v6 pajero! cant wait and when its driving ill be getting a Aussie arvos sticker for it to!
Definitely recommend something like an HPD catch can, i think it’s already mentioned but because it’s a baffle type can there’s barely any pressure difference to running no catch can
Thanks Morgan, yeah heard pretty good things about them
@@AussieArvos you guys seen the same effect when removing the restrictive filter, replace it with some steel wool bud n it won't pressurise your internals
I put one of these on my td42 easy to install and a quality Aussie made billet aluminium construction, idiot it at 320k after I replaced the intake,turbo,manifold, and intercooler engine is still running fine but I wanted to reduce the vapour going into the intercooler
I had one of the HPD cans, they still spit enough oil vapours out to slowly fill my intercooler with gunk.
And yes the can was emptied, so I ended up just removing it to get back some space.
now I just run a single hose down to the chassis,
illegal I know but hey I gave up on catch cans and wasting Hundreds of dollars...
@@sm9300 "illegal I know" .... I hope your best mate or Dad don't drive a motorbike. Oil on the road can kill people guy, and just because you're one person doing it with limited oil doesn't mean shit, you're contributing to the problem.
Thanks for the video. I think I just saw your 80 series drive through Hurstbridge today. Cheers
Great video legend!
I use a HPD catch can, doesn't have the filter like these and it works a treat, just has a couple of mesh screens to try and catch oil.
I had the exactly same thing happen to my 80 series rebuilt the engine and put a catch can on not long after i built it and my main rear seal started leaking took it off and it has just about stopped leaking all together,So yes its not worth it thats what irecon. Again great vid guys 😎
Gday. Did you solve the problem with the fuel tank solenoid? My 100s is doing similar but only partial. I think it’s letting some through coz tank is often at 3/4 when I switch over even though I fill em both. Thanks 😊
Great point to think about. Should get the 'in the know' talking. Cheers Patrick.
Have seen similar issues in motorbikes. Most people that removed stock air boxes and replaced with aftermarket filters without air-box had issues with oil leaks or oil consumption. Stock airboxes have crank case hose venting into then and reducing crank case pressure. After removing stock airbox they vent hose into atmosphere with small filter on the end of it. Bikes engines cruise at 5-10000rpms at such rpms a small restrictions can add up very quickly.
If you see anyone with motorbike complaining about oil consumption ask them if they done airbox mode and how are they venting crank case.
As people say “If its not broken , it hasnt been modified enough”
i want liams camo hoodie with aussie arvos on it. would love some hunting merch boys/.
I run a catch can in my 92 GQ 4.2L to save oil in the intercooler system. Change the can filter every 5,000km when I change the motor oil and oil filters and it works great.
This just started happening in my 2012 Pajero. There was a leak in Rear main seal but after cleaning the catch can it stopped a little.
In reality, a 2012 Paj won't need a catch can. All the 'modern' EGR stuff is not on them.
Mann and hummel clearly state in their catalogue that the provent is not a one size fits all which is why they have a few different version depending on the engine requirements.
Most resellers only sell the provent 200 version but that has a blowby L/min and engine kw limit capacity aswell.
Provent has been around well before they hit the 4wd scene. They were mainly developed for commercial diesel trucks in europe.
Only reason they push for catch cans on modern diesels is because it's illegal to turn turn off the egr system. If you remove oil from the intake with egr, your then have exhaust gases pretty much sand blasting your valve seats. Oil is only the glue in egr diesels, it's the exhaust gases you really need to remove but is illegal for epa reasons.
No filters! Pack it lightly with steel wool as a conveyance for the oil and things to stick to. This also helps avoid oil slushing around in the can while driving.
The 2uz draws air from the intake manifold through the crank case on the passenger side, out on the drivers side and into the intake manifold.
Without a 500ml catch can(that isnt factory included, $30 amazon) I had oil and fine particulate 'mud' throughout. After installation(3000mi ago) the intake manifold was dry. MPG went up too!
Great topic real thinker this is. Wouldn't a mod to the fill cap so it allows a pressure gauge to be fitted be a more accurate test?
Hahaha plastic bag test, love the creativity guys.
I got a 2012 equinox gasoline engine, blew the rear main seal due to a dirty pcv sensor caused by egr and oil burning carboning it up. I installed a catch can a few months back, havent seen any problems so far. Hoping its helping to keep that pcv sensor clean and clear.
Good work. Good attitude. I think you are on to something that we have missed. Its definitely not good to over pressurise the engine. Also don’t think because the pressure difference seems small that its not a big deal. Thank you for bringing this to our attention
To save having to get a new filter for that can (they’re costly), just rinse it off with unleaded and let it dry 👌
I recommend the baffle type catch cans, They are often the cheaper ones and probably don't catch as much oil but they only consist of baffles and no filter medium so theirs basically no restriction.
Yeah that’s what I was thinking would be better. It just reduces the flow a fraction, not restricts it. And that would catch the vapours.
This is what i use, it has a mesh filter and thats it, catches heaps of oil overtime
Lmfao may as well not even run a catch can. The baffle ones are garbage, and with all the oil they let get past you may aswell not even have it fitted.
@@krump743 They definitely aren't as affective as the filter type, but from my experience they still collect a fair amount of oil.
They definitely blow seal's in the higher rev range, best to run factory or to the atmosphere 😉
Just on that topic, can newer diesels run it into atmosphere or they need to be plumbed for back pressure or something? Not mechanically minded just something I read somewhere saying modern diesels cant run it straight out into atmosphere.
Full vent to atmosphere or suck it back in at the air filter and live with the crap in the intake
@@gasnxt6805 so what happens to the inlet pipe in manifold just block it off?
@@06hunter54 Not sure on modern diesel's mate, but no matter the engine it'll benefit from not having oil rammed down it's throat, the only thing that i can think of would be that having it plumbed in there will be sensors reading that gas and adjusting accordingly for the emissions.
No doubt if you disconnected it and it was a problem on a new diesels a fault code will thrown.
@@06hunter54 yep
Interesting experiment!
Crank case oil vapour catch cans are now common in a lot of engines to reduce carbon deposits sticking to intake when ERG systems are on a engine. Especially with Euro 5 and up or Tier 4 engines.
Old rule of thumb for commercial diesel engines is blow by can be twice the horsepower before worry. So if you have a 200hp diesel engine you don’t worry about blow by until it exceeds 400cfm at high idle.
It’s also a Ryco filter. Very little chance they invest R&D in correct size of can and surface area of filter let a lone correct filter media.
My provent 200 catch can filter media is nothing like the Ryco. It’s done 30,000km and doesn’t restrict crank case ventilation at all. It’s on a 2021 Ranger 3.2 and over engine life so far intake has no oil in the intake and the catch can has caught
Crankcase breather to chassis rail 👌🏻😂
i run a provent 200 on my gq, important thing to note is the hose size, i used 16mm id to the catch can aswell as from the can back to intake. i’ve had it on for over 40k and no issues, prevents have a pressure relief valve built in aswell. not sure if the ryco has that. also change the filter every 25k
Thats exactly what i was thinking, my provent has a pressure valve.
@@vincegiordmaina4440 spot on I have all my mates running provent 200 and thay all happy with them and there is a lot of reports of hpd ryco and so on having problems
The time to blow up the bag, you say "only" a 3 seconds increase.
Another way to say it would be a 33% increase.
Makes it sound quite different!
I just put a vented filler cap on. Great idle on a modified C5 w/CC. I also put a FF , 3/8 ID inline next to the PCV, so no solids get in the system.
Good video. I run a provent 200 in my td42 GQ. Will try the test on my trol. The tests were interesting. It would be awesome to see a pressure gauge somehow doing the measurement. How many PSI is it building?
you tested your provent ???
The crank case pressure and volume will be worse under load and boost. You could try connecting a pressure gauge to the crank case and see what pressure you get. I once cracked a rocker cover from end to end cause the catch can caused a restriction.
Top video boys
Does the catch can have a one way valve, as some do, I made my own with steel wool for oil and 12 mil inlet outlet on big 1.2 lt AL bottle
Very good video! Next episode how to remove and clean your manifold?
Same thing happened to my 1kz kzj95. Luckily it leaked through the dip stick joint not the seals😂. Immediately removed the occ.
The best catch cans are the ones made in Germany by Mann Hummel.
Repurposed now useless Hummel figurines ?
Your rear main seal is on its way out which is revealed by the slightly higher crankcase pressure.
I clean my Provent catch can filter out every 10,000klms with kerosene for the last 100,000klms and no oil has come out my TD42 rear main seal in that time. My Provent side pressure regulator valve must be working, yours may not have been?
I run a catch can to slow down carboning of the combustion chamber and prevent oiling of my intercooler.
In my cars I fill the catch can with steel wool as it still flows enough air but is restrictive enough to catch oil. You can also clean it but you don't really need to.
My diesel mechanic who is an expert with cruisers and 4jj1s does not recommend catch cans for the same reason.
He basically wouldn't let me put one on, says a EGR delete is enough
its an interesting topic and well worth the discussion, as said the internet is full of people saying CATCH CAN EVERYTHING and if you disagree your a flog.
i run one on my gen 4 3.2 paj aswell as an egr delete cable, does it do its job, stuffed if i know
love the vid fellas keep it up