In theory, sandpaper should be one of the simplest issues to deal with in bodywork, woodworking, etc. But in actuality - it's NOT! Thanks for simplifying this topic. It's a big help!
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks I'm a starter to body work & fear did I use the right sandpaper did I over sand did I under sand ? again thanks awesome videos RF from TX
The hog really does rule - not for just Bondo either. I once took 3-4 layers of wall paper off of plaster with that guy - lots of dust - wife was not amused :)
Great video Jerry thank you another great 1 I have learned so much looking at your videos and now i feel so confidence on doing body work thank you you have helped me a whole lot 👍
@@LakesideAutobody Hello Jerry I have a problem on my hands I bought 2 rolls of 6" sticky back paper for my DA sander and it doesn't want to stick I guess the glue is bad how can I make a stick again thanks
@@firstgenerationgarage2803 That's no problem at all. Back in the day there was no sticky back paper at all - you used this stuff - 3M Feathering Disc Adhesive (Type 2), 08051, 5 oz Tube - www.ebay.com/itm/191592801945?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1Mcz8-J5PTjWKHvEpZtm9eQ38&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid= It will last you forever too so it's not a waste of $ - if you get a deal on some non sticky back paper, you're all set :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks buddy you are the man Please try your best to make a video repairing a old school car thank you take care you are a great teacher
Jerry they're no more than 1/4 or 3/8" deep. So any deeper then I should use 40 grit. It's a 6" DA. Thank you so much for your helpful reply. Now to figure out why I can't reply to anyone on youtube. I can comment but can't reply. I seek no one else's advice except yours. :) Lucky you huh lol.
You can rough up that paint with 80, 120 or 220. Not sure if you've seen this video but it's what you'll be doing - ruclips.net/video/koMw6-auoIs/видео.html
I have the same 8" DA....what a beast for shaping bondo! Mine looks rougher than yours and has been around since 3M disc adheshive days!! I was trying to find a can of that stuff as I have a box of the old dry style 3M disc I hate to waste. Someone said Elmers craft glue....I'm gonna try it....and then I'm moving up to hook & loop. It's been a minute, can you tell? lol, Kids are saying whaaaat???
@@LakesideAutobody FYI, I picked up a can of Elmers spray CraftBond, and it seems to work about identically to the old 3M adheshive. WalMart, under $5. OK, off to the Sherwin Williams store for some more sticker shock!! PPG quoted me $84 for their cheapest pint of urethane base that they assured me probably won't match!
Great video ! I’ve been watching your channel for a while great content It would be great if you have a series of videos like this explaining the average person who was just trying to get into bodywork for their own little projects to have some knowledge and understanding about some of the fundamentals and basic projects
Thanks. I use this - www.harborfreight.com/10-amp-7-in-variable-speed-rotary-polishersander-57384.html I purchased a backing pad to use these - benchmarkabrasives.com/collections/aluminum-oxide-resin-fiber-discs/products/7-x-7-8-ceramic-resin-fiber-discs-25-pack
66 years old now and been doing my bodywork the way I was taught when I was 18 and have never had any problems. I've seen guys sand metal to 600 grit paper then add the filler. I know filler sticks good but I don't know about that.
Hi Jerry. For some reason I can't reply to your reply lol. These dents on this 70 C10 are like 3 inches long and wide. They're not itty bitty. Still okay with what I mentioned? Also, I should I use 40 grit instead of 80 or is 80 is fine for prepping these dents for bondo. I'm a 65 year old novice so bear with me :).Thank you again.
last 2 shops I worked at, the 4 1/2" angle grinders were used a lot, but for metal fitting, cutting metal, cutting old metal, and rough grinding welds close, then finish up with air to full smooth welds. good & bad, but 1 thought it cheaper, than running compressor for air tools, so primary used electric, other than DA sander, & a shop even before that used air, except had an electric jitterbug, and an electric DA sander. shaking my head....... 1 shop I worked at in late 1980's used 16 grit, 9" disc on air grinder, it was used to smooth welds on trailers, only place in my life that used anything that coarse & 9"
@@LakesideAutobody yeah, and as I am older, I think what if that had ever grabbed me. been grabbed a few times with 40 & 80 grits, but small 4 1/2 disc. lol. I dont want any part of 16 grit again! 7" with 24-36 grit maybe.... but I am more cautious now too.
Sorry about the late reply - my filter caught the word "dumb" :) Sometimes people comment and say, "What a d #ss" so I just blocked it. Anyway it stands for Dual Action. Good question. Always good to hear from you PSG - love your videos and your video making style and voice :)
@@pstreetgarage7304 You have a great voice - sounds just fine. I think the same about my voice my friend and folks tell me differently - not sure if they're lying though :)
i started to spray my truck with shopline paint and noticed sanding marks still in the body work what grit paper should I use and how long should I wait to sand it?
Wait till the next day to be really safe and wet sand with 400 grit. It's normal to see sand scratches on the 1st coat - after that you should be fine.
Of all the channels I watch about paint, I've noticed you use more aggressive sand paper grits than most of the others. Just an observation. Does some of that have to do with knowing the product you use will cover it?
I'm not quite sure if these guys like Eastwood, various YT channels actually worked in a production body shop. When working for dealerships, private owned shops, MACCO, etc I was always on commission pay - no time to play around. Use a course grit to get close for speed and move to a finer grit to finish. You get the same result as a guy who starts with 600 but takes forever. Simply put - 24-40 grit to grind paint/metal. 36 to sand filler, 80 to finish filler before priming, 120-150 to block sand primer or even 80 then 120. 240 to 320 finish sand or 400-600 wet sand - then paint. 1200-1500 wet sand and buff if needed. This idea eliminates frustration, increases speed and conserves sand paper. Hope that helps answer your questions my friend - have a good weekend :)
Hello, could I use a DA with 80 grit for grinding small dents(3-4 inches by 1/4-3/8 deep)? Question is meant for prepping the dent for bondo. I do have a rubber block sander and a 16 inch board sander but might be hard to get into the dent. Thank you sir.
Yes. The way to fix hail damage and small dings is to do something like you're saying. You can DA sand the ding/dent and fill with either regular body filler or 2K glazing putty like Evercoat or something similar - sands very easy:)
@@RobertDickens2002 Well... the best way to do what you are trying to do is maybe dry sand with a DA and 320 or finer so that it doesn't dig in too fast and create low areas or go to bare metal - let me know what you end up doing :)
@@RobertDickens2002 It's going to bare metal? Generally there's no way to really "just remove the clear coat" Any time you start sanding on a car, you are going to sand through in spots, etc. That's why you sand, prime (primer surfacer), block, prime again, finish sand, paint.
👍🏻Thanks for the short and sweet on sandpaper! With all the grits it gets a little confusing and overwhelming.
You're welcome Michael - hope it reduces things down a bit.
In theory, sandpaper should be one of the simplest issues to deal with in bodywork, woodworking, etc. But in actuality - it's NOT!
Thanks for simplifying this topic. It's a big help!
You're welcome. Sometimes the simplest information is the hardest find. Have a great weekend my friend :)
Thanks so much Jerry. I will be using all the grits on my project. Have you ever thought about being a teacher? You would be a good one!
Thanks Bluesman - might try that one day :)
You just make it simple and easy Jerry!…great video!
Nice reviews on tools and materials I always like these kinds of reviews thank you jerry for a basic guide stay safe
Thanks for the support Husky - you too my friend :)
Good rundown on sandpaper Jerry! Stay warm! Gonna be down to 4 degrees Fahrenheit here tonight! Too cold for Oklahoma I will tell you that! Brrr!
Yep - it was -4 degrees this morning. The '96 Chevy Silverado liked it - started right up :)
Man you have shown me so much.. I appreciate you videos.
You're welcome. Glad you like the videos Jason - have a good weekend :)
Great info. Have an excellent weekend.
You too Ray - always good to hear from you my friend :)
I just rented a shop, stocking up on supplies, thanks for the video
You're welcome :)
Perfect , just what I needed.
Great video! Thanks.
another great video sir, thank you
You're welcome Richard :)
Thanks Jerry, great information!
Awesome could you show now in steps of how the (different Grits ) work that would be just awesome again thanks killer video
Good suggestion Rudy - I'll write it down and try to have it for you before summer. Glad you like the video my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks I'm a starter to body work & fear did I use the right sandpaper did I over sand did I under sand ? again thanks awesome videos RF from TX
Great selection of papers. I'm not giving up my bondo hog! lol
The hog really does rule - not for just Bondo either. I once took 3-4 layers of wall paper off of plaster with that guy - lots of dust - wife was not amused :)
@@LakesideAutobody hahahahaha
Nice clear review. Thanks again!
You're welcome Curtis - have a good week :)
Thank you great video very helpful
This is very helpful, as are all your videos.
I appreciate that Bob - glad they are helpful - have a good weekend my friend :)
Informative guide \m/ rock on
Great video Jerry thank you another great 1 I have learned so much looking at your videos and now i feel so confidence on doing body work thank you you have helped me a whole lot 👍
You're welcome Louis. I'm glad they help you out and I appreciate the support and kind words - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Hello Jerry I have a problem on my hands I bought 2 rolls of 6" sticky back paper for my DA sander and it doesn't want to stick I guess the glue is bad how can I make a stick again thanks
@@firstgenerationgarage2803 That's no problem at all. Back in the day there was no sticky back paper at all - you used this stuff - 3M Feathering Disc Adhesive (Type 2), 08051, 5 oz Tube - www.ebay.com/itm/191592801945?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1Mcz8-J5PTjWKHvEpZtm9eQ38&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid= It will last you forever too so it's not a waste of $ - if you get a deal on some non sticky back paper, you're all set :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks buddy you are the man Please try your best to make a video repairing a old school car thank you take care you are a great teacher
How long do I have to let the adhesive sit
great information thank you sir. god bless
God bless you too my friend - have a good weekend :)
You’re awesome
Excellent thank you
You are very welcome - have a good week Rambo :)
Jerry they're no more than 1/4 or 3/8" deep. So any deeper then I should use 40 grit. It's a 6" DA. Thank you so much for your helpful reply.
Now to figure out why I can't reply to anyone on youtube. I can comment but can't reply.
I seek no one else's advice except yours. :) Lucky you huh lol.
You can rough up that paint with 80, 120 or 220. Not sure if you've seen this video but it's what you'll be doing - ruclips.net/video/koMw6-auoIs/видео.html
I have the same 8" DA....what a beast for shaping bondo! Mine looks rougher than yours and has been around since 3M disc adheshive days!! I was trying to find a can of that stuff as I have a box of the old dry style 3M disc I hate to waste. Someone said Elmers craft glue....I'm gonna try it....and then I'm moving up to hook & loop. It's been a minute, can you tell? lol, Kids are saying whaaaat???
That's why it's called the bondo hog. I wish they still made that disc adhesive stuff - worked great really.
@@LakesideAutobody FYI, I picked up a can of Elmers spray CraftBond, and it seems to work about identically to the old 3M adheshive. WalMart, under $5.
OK, off to the Sherwin Williams store for some more sticker shock!! PPG quoted me $84 for their cheapest pint of urethane base that they assured me probably won't match!
Good video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it - thanks for watching 😊
Great video !
I’ve been watching your channel for a while great content
It would be great if you have a series of videos like this explaining the average person who was just trying to get into bodywork for their own little projects to have some knowledge and understanding about some of the fundamentals and basic projects
Thanks for the suggestion. So you would like to see more videos on the basics of bodywork - like what you can paint over & what you can't, etc.?
After watching I realized I cant remember you using a line sander....any additions to the list for one?
I did used one on this video at 9 : 30 - ruclips.net/video/d21RkqTwRqs/видео.html It's a Viking V100 - they're very dependable.
Excellent information. Jerry, what's a good, not too costly air, or electric 7" sander? I'll mainly use it for paint removal to prep for filler work.
Thanks. I use this - www.harborfreight.com/10-amp-7-in-variable-speed-rotary-polishersander-57384.html I purchased a backing pad to use these - benchmarkabrasives.com/collections/aluminum-oxide-resin-fiber-discs/products/7-x-7-8-ceramic-resin-fiber-discs-25-pack
Very clean and understanding. Thank you
You're welcome :)
66 years old now and been doing my bodywork the way I was taught when I was 18 and have never had any problems. I've seen guys sand metal to 600 grit paper then add the filler. I know filler sticks good but I don't know about that.
You're right. The surface has to be prepared correctly - then you'll never have a problem :)
Hi Jerry. For some reason I can't reply to your reply lol. These dents on this 70 C10 are like 3 inches long and wide. They're not itty bitty. Still okay with what I mentioned? Also, I should I use 40 grit instead of 80 or is 80 is fine for prepping these dents for bondo. I'm a 65 year old novice so bear with me :).Thank you again.
If they are not that deep, you're fine. 80,120, even 220 with work fine to put your filler over. Feel free to ask as many ?s as you need - no worries.
last 2 shops I worked at, the 4 1/2" angle grinders were used a lot, but for metal fitting, cutting metal, cutting old metal, and rough grinding welds close, then finish up with air to full smooth welds. good & bad, but 1 thought it cheaper, than running compressor for air tools, so primary used electric, other than DA sander, & a shop even before that used air, except had an electric jitterbug, and an electric DA sander. shaking my head....... 1 shop I worked at in late 1980's used 16 grit, 9" disc on air grinder, it was used to smooth welds on trailers, only place in my life that used anything that coarse & 9"
That is pretty course grit :)
@@LakesideAutobody yeah, and as I am older, I think what if that had ever grabbed me. been grabbed a few times with 40 & 80 grits, but small 4 1/2 disc. lol. I dont want any part of 16 grit again! 7" with 24-36 grit maybe.... but I am more cautious now too.
@@randymack1782 Like an old turtle, you pick up knowledge through the years and have scars that remind you - "Don't do that again!" :)
Great video Jerry. Dumb question. What does the DA stand in a da sander.
Sorry about the late reply - my filter caught the word "dumb" :) Sometimes people comment and say, "What a d #ss" so I just blocked it. Anyway it stands for Dual Action. Good question. Always good to hear from you PSG - love your videos and your video making style and voice :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry ! I hate the sound of my voice lol
@@pstreetgarage7304 You have a great voice - sounds just fine. I think the same about my voice my friend and folks tell me differently - not sure if they're lying though :)
@@LakesideAutobody Your voice is good.... You are famous. I guess its a thing about hearing ourselves lol
@@pstreetgarage7304 That's true - glad I'm not a singer. Imagine hating all of your songs :)
i started to spray my truck with shopline paint and noticed sanding marks still in the body work what grit paper should I use and how long should I wait to sand it?
Wait till the next day to be really safe and wet sand with 400 grit. It's normal to see sand scratches on the 1st coat - after that you should be fine.
Bondo hog? That’s my car!! I got craters and extensive chips and cracks…. A lot to remove over an entire roof surface.
👍😊
Of all the channels I watch about paint, I've noticed you use more aggressive sand paper grits than most of the others. Just an observation. Does some of that have to do with knowing the product you use will cover it?
I'm not quite sure if these guys like Eastwood, various YT channels actually worked in a production body shop. When working for dealerships, private owned shops, MACCO, etc I was always on commission pay - no time to play around. Use a course grit to get close for speed and move to a finer grit to finish. You get the same result as a guy who starts with 600 but takes forever. Simply put - 24-40 grit to grind paint/metal. 36 to sand filler, 80 to finish filler before priming, 120-150 to block sand primer or even 80 then 120. 240 to 320 finish sand or 400-600 wet sand - then paint. 1200-1500 wet sand and buff if needed. This idea eliminates frustration, increases speed and conserves sand paper. Hope that helps answer your questions my friend - have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for the reply. I figured it was something like that.
@@jayinmi3706 👍😊
Hello, could I use a DA with 80 grit for grinding small dents(3-4 inches by 1/4-3/8 deep)?
Question is meant for prepping the dent for bondo. I do have a rubber block sander and a 16 inch board sander but might be hard to get into the dent.
Thank you sir.
Yes. The way to fix hail damage and small dings is to do something like you're saying. You can DA sand the ding/dent and fill with either regular body filler or 2K glazing putty like Evercoat or something similar - sands very easy:)
What's the best grit to remove clearcoat but not base coat
Are you trying to remove just the clear and not mess up the base?
@@LakesideAutobody yes well not trying to go to bare metal and not create low spots but it seems impossible
@@RobertDickens2002 Well... the best way to do what you are trying to do is maybe dry sand with a DA and 320 or finer so that it doesn't dig in too fast and create low areas or go to bare metal - let me know what you end up doing :)
@@LakesideAutobody I tried 400 and it's still doing it
@@RobertDickens2002 It's going to bare metal? Generally there's no way to really "just remove the clear coat" Any time you start sanding on a car, you are going to sand through in spots, etc. That's why you sand, prime (primer surfacer), block, prime again, finish sand, paint.
That just seems super aggressive. We finish body work with 180, block primer with 320, and paint prep with 600-800.
You must get frustrated working on large dents and heavy collision damage. Do you guys replace most stuff or do you repair a lot?
Yes for noobs. They flood the market with all type of sandpaper. So much is not needed.