Most gasman don't care . Esp the installer of mine, British Gas trained engineer. Kept telling me. Made right mess. Boiler never been right nor the thermostat n he took tiles off roof not sure if water tight but there's lot of draught n leaves coming down.
If return valve is closed and cold water inlet closed, undo the cold side of the integrated filling loop, put a small piece of drain down hose (the larger one) and then open the return, much easier to drain than clarting on trying to open that drain off, easy when there’s space but if your limited for space just crack the filling loop
New to heating so don't bite... But if the boiler gets serviced every year, you drop the pressure to check the expansion vessel, surely it shouldn't become a problem. Assuming the boiler develops a fault twice every year that requires draining from there over a lifespan of let's say 10 years, you only need to open that 30 times. Surely it should last at least that long? I don't mind being educated and corrected.
@@davefarmery8180you keep on lapping up lies. They may be less efficient as in the don’t burn as much of the gas they are given but a 14kw heat only boiler uses a lot less gas that a new combi. Especially when you’ve got idiots installing 38kw in 2 bed semis so they get “good” hot water.
@@petermckiernan5822 double check goes on the cold water side 🤦♂️ You have no idea how many people still put them the wrong way round…. I’m guessing your one of them 😜😜😜 So yes, you can drain through filling loop if fitted CORRECTLY
@@HughieMunro not so mate, I fit two, one on the cold main and one on the heating return, stops twats disconnecting the loop and accidentally draining 60° water into their face.
Designed to fail = more money to be made on servicing or replacement. Once you get mineral deposits on that drain all bets are off. More so because it’s plastic.
Imagine designing an appliance that you fill with water and then fit it with a barely functional drain point. Designed by muppets and installed by muppets
It’s a pity that Ideal, and many other manufacturers fail to provide a good design tap for draining the boiler. Or in a location that is easy to get to. If they want to make sure that it’s not mistaken for anything else by the end user then keep the actual tap inside the boiler. I use 1/4 drive long sockets for the small nuts and bolts, but the chamfer lead on them stops any engagement onto this hexagon. If it needs a special tool then it should be given away with the product.
Yeah like the drain and flush kit that includes the pop off valve. I don’t know how many I’ve went and installed them a year or two after they were originally installed. It’s nuts!!
Hello mate, (I'm not Allen).... I used the Conex brand (copper, not plastic) from Toolstation and been on my CH system 2 years with no problems. Toolstation also sell Pegler, a good brand apparently. The MOST important part of using push fit is pipe preparation. Spend extra time to cut pipe square, deburr, clean in and out. Good luck.
That drain off is one of the worst bits about the logic. Along with the stupid bracket that holds the vessel in that’s a pig to line up. I was really surprised to see that terrible drain off design has been carried over to the new logic. Do any of these manufacturers ever actually speak to service and repair guys? Ok they’ve at least sorted out the poor condensate trap this time around. But leaving that drain off? Really?
And drain it off all over the floor 😂
Was going to say exactly the same 😂
Most gasman don't care . Esp the installer of mine, British Gas trained engineer. Kept telling me. Made right mess. Boiler never been right nor the thermostat n he took tiles off roof not sure if water tight but there's lot of draught n leaves coming down.
Monoblock tap spanner, one of the extension fit in there . Use to always carry one just for this situation, thank me later
I’ve been trying to get my Ho’s for a week but they ain’t answer their phones……🤨
Or use disconnect integrated fill loop off of ch return and drain through that more control and drains quicker 👍🏼
If return valve is closed and cold water inlet closed, undo the cold side of the integrated filling loop, put a small piece of drain down hose (the larger one) and then open the return, much easier to drain than clarting on trying to open that drain off, easy when there’s space but if your limited for space just crack the filling loop
Do those valves need to be closed or can I just unscrew and ain
K4iokekynaphh name gb❤❤❤❤❤❤
You'd really wanna turn that after 5-10 years wouldn't you
you got that right mate
New to heating so don't bite... But if the boiler gets serviced every year, you drop the pressure to check the expansion vessel, surely it shouldn't become a problem. Assuming the boiler develops a fault twice every year that requires draining from there over a lifespan of let's say 10 years, you only need to open that 30 times. Surely it should last at least that long? I don't mind being educated and corrected.
@@ChristianBHough Most boilers you will go to my mate, will not have any servicing and these crappy parts always bite you on the arse.
@@kendevanny4078 mine does, every year
👍beat me to it
Or get a box spanner, which will have a cross hole, in case you need more leverage to undo the fitting.
Got an ideal logic. Works a treat.
Hi ya.. looks like that blackdrain spout has a slot on the end for an oversize flatblade screwdriver...?
Nice clear n good rate too. Most info on these is like flipping Road runner or is USA
I won't be attempting it but good to know.
I'm now using the drain point as one of many flue sampling points Ideal have designed throughout their boiler range 😂.
Basin spanner set does the trick
Mono block socket fits
Open the filling loop point it into the bucket or sink and done
Quite like the logic
The people on here saying 10 years out of a boiler is good. The one in my house was installed 1985 👍
And is not as efficient as a new one
@@davefarmery8180 maybe but if it’s maintained properly idk,
They were made to last. The ones after were pile of crud. In my experience.
@@davefarmery8180you keep on lapping up lies. They may be less efficient as in the don’t burn as much of the gas they are given but a 14kw heat only boiler uses a lot less gas that a new combi. Especially when you’ve got idiots installing 38kw in 2 bed semis so they get “good” hot water.
Just drain it down through the filling loop😜
Most people put the FL back to front, with the check valve on the return and fcuks this meth up.
Not with a double check valve on the loop you won't.
@@petermckiernan5822 double check goes on the cold water side 🤦♂️
You have no idea how many people still put them the wrong way round…. I’m guessing your one of them 😜😜😜
So yes, you can drain through filling loop if fitted CORRECTLY
@@HughieMunro not so mate, I fit two, one on the cold main and one on the heating return, stops twats disconnecting the loop and accidentally draining 60° water into their face.
Every time even on the integral loops can drain down 👍🏼
Omg that’s fascinating 🥸
What do you turn off first tho?
Very helpful. Thank you
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Could turn it with a socket too. I like outside of the box ideas though myself.
plumbers don’t carry sockets or box end wrenches. Why? No company makes ones that are special enough to cost 50x what they should cost 😂
Thanks
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When did Phil Mitchell become a plumber
That's a good tip. I'm not sure why there are so many negative comments?
Why is your video back to front Allen? I noticed the filling loop on left and wondered WTF?
Swear that went everywhere but….😂
ha ha, it did.
Is there anything else you need to do once drained?
Pissing out over floor lad 😂
Happens the best of us 🙏
What size is the nut on the plastic drain off?
I need to get my course done
Been wondering what they are, They are my grips. 😂
Any idea what will fix a L1 code thanks
Would a long socket fit over it to loosen it?
Is this to drain down the central heating so I can reroute some pipes and add a rad? Thanks
Thank You
Designed to fail = more money to be made on servicing or replacement. Once you get mineral deposits on that drain all bets are off. More so because it’s plastic.
Crap access then leaks everywhere. How about input at design stage from heating engineers?
Imagine designing an appliance that you fill with water and then fit it with a barely functional drain point. Designed by muppets and installed by muppets
😆 well said
Ideal, to change it to a better boiler!!
It’s a pity that Ideal, and many other manufacturers fail to provide a good design tap for draining the boiler. Or in a location that is easy to get to. If they want to make sure that it’s not mistaken for anything else by the end user then keep the actual tap inside the boiler. I use 1/4 drive long sockets for the small nuts and bolts, but the chamfer lead on them stops any engagement onto this hexagon. If it needs a special tool then it should be given away with the product.
Yeah like the drain and flush kit that includes the pop off valve. I don’t know how many I’ve went and installed them a year or two after they were originally installed. It’s nuts!!
Standard garden hose fits over the hex part and grips it enough to turn open, I know I've worked on hundreds of Logics 😎
Yeah, that looks like a self-blocking gardena adapter, was thinking the same.
Are they good boilers?
Looks like that tap could use some sealing tape.
Am I missing something? Why not a box spanner?
ideal would be great to design a tool for it , it could get lost along with the handles for those mag filters
And the fill keys for Worcesters
box spanner set ?
A box spanner is built for the job
Thank You
And why then you have to refill the boiler again
Personally I just use a big flat head screwdriver or chisel and put it in the slot that’s there instead of the messing about with copper 😂
still leaking
It’s pissing out round the hose Allen. Not a great drain off
Hey Allen what is the best pressfit to buy? And where you get the best deal
Hello mate, (I'm not Allen).... I used the Conex brand (copper, not plastic) from Toolstation and been on my CH system 2 years with no problems. Toolstation also sell Pegler, a good brand apparently.
The MOST important part of using push fit is pipe preparation. Spend extra time to cut pipe square, deburr, clean in and out. Good luck.
@@s.wilson5675he asked for PRESS fit, not push fit.
@@FriendlyFireBrigade Oops. My bad. Thanks for correcting.
That has to be connected always ,that's the pressure overflow
No it isn’t
Yeah they are shite, I fit loads of Ideal Logics but those drain offs piss out.
I like ideal for the money put one in my own house actually
why not just add a bit of reducing pipe to a bit of plex to attach the drain pipe all in one, that way you can keep it all in the kit bag
Get you hooes
Danm when they said gas workers can go to a job in a white shirt and leave clean I thought they were joking
I suppose a pipe wrench is also an option
My bad. In dutch its called a pipe wrench. An english pipe wrench is something else. Box spanner is the correct translation😂🤦♂️
Love the copper not a big fan of the pro press
I need a piss now
Great boilers to work on but by far the worst drain off awkward positioning and no matter what you do it always leaks over the hose 🖕🏻
I've got a tip for you... But some nail clippers
I have a tip, if you are going to be rude at least spell it correctly 😂
Anybody saw that theres a slot for a flat head screwdriver
Noyce
Nice and easy as it piss's all over his arm 😂
Could you not just attach the hose to the other end of the copper pipe and then you only ever need to turn it easily
Love ideals to service soooo easy but thst drain off is a bastard
The problem allan is the water which came out of your pipe outer diameter
Thank You
All boilers have drain and turn by tap don't know why this is like this
Or ye get ye mono spanner 😂
This 'plumber' has lots of videos which make you wonder if he is a prankster.
Water is running down the ouside of his hose!
Use orange pipe
Oh no not mapress right by the boiler connections 😅😅😅
Just use a flat head
Thank You
Or buy a deep socket for you're toolkit
Just use the prv...
Don’t work on ideal usually chuck em on the grass
Or just drain it through the filling loop 😅
Take it you don’t have a set of tap spanners
Is it true these combi boilers are only good for a 1 to 2 bedroom house?
did you watch this one? interested to hear your thoughts? Thanks. ruclips.net/video/zAJPovHxtXs/видео.html
Yea good idea water going everywhere lol
Get your tools and get out of my house 😂😂 just kidding
I'll stick to using PRV 🤣😂
Wrong camera.
As phill Mitchell got a new job?
that rule forcing the flexible hose is so dumb
Forget that drain-off it will ruin your Friday. Just dump out the PRV and be done with it.
yes and then the prv leaks because it wont seal again. cowboy.
@@TWH442 Oh forgot no one tests the fuction of the prv anymore during a service. Not as if they can be cleaned either. Im such a numpty.
And it's such a poor design the water runs down the outside of the hose and all over the floor...
There was nothing easy about that 😂😂 Bad design plastic junk
It is a bad design
That drain off is one of the worst bits about the logic. Along with the stupid bracket that holds the vessel in that’s a pig to line up. I was really surprised to see that terrible drain off design has been carried over to the new logic. Do any of these manufacturers ever actually speak to service and repair guys? Ok they’ve at least sorted out the poor condensate trap this time around. But leaving that drain off? Really?
An get charged a squillian pound for doing it
Yea and pissing out down the outside of his pipe.....
Flat head screwdriver
Bad design
Thank You
Never seen no pro press fittings like that
It's pissing out the top and down the sides of the fitting spilling everywhere. What a piece of crap factory fitting.
Looks like a lazy boiler install there. Not one soldered joint
Why don’t you just use a socket with and extension
Yeah, a fucking mess!