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How to lower the pressure of your Combi boiler. Not using bleed valves.
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- Опубликовано: 14 фев 2022
- Need to lower the pressure of your Combi boiler? Using radiator air valves can be problematic as can using a drain valve, here is my proffered easy way to do it.
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Thanks Al.
I have a pressure relief valve on my boiler, set to 3 bar, but I can manually turn it to relieve pressure in the boiler. I did it yesterday in fact & whilst I was there I checked the pressure on the mains inlet to the house, using a pressure control valve.
Normal domestic pressure for the UK is somewhere between 3 & 4 bar. Mine was at 6.2 bar, which is enough to cause a few leaks around joints in the cold water system, into washing machines etc.
I'm glad I fitted the pressure control valve. It can save a lot of hassle.
Thanks for the info Mark.
Thank you for this video, easy to understand & follow. Fixed my pressure issue.
Glad it helped
Always watch all your vids and give a thumbs up, happy 70th Birthday 🎂 Al
Thanks for that!
Well explained, as usual, Al 👍
Thanks Rob.
I heard Jans request on the Tony Blackburn show on Saturday, happy 70th mate
Thanks Paul my big secret is out ha ha.
@@dereton33 happy 70th
Happy birthday Al
This is so much quicker this method will work on a sealed system time saved is money earned thank you 👊
No problem 👍
This just saved me a great deal. Thank you.
No problem.
Good little tip,and a happy birthday 🎂 to you 👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers! The news has broke ha ha.
Another handy, easy to follow video. Thanks
You're welcome!
Thanks i know how to increase pressure but often wondered how to reduce it if need be ..
No problem!
I loved the vidoe very useful thank you 😊
You’re welcome 😊
Hi Al
Hope you dont mind me asking but why does my combi take so long to heat the water at my taps upstairs and downstairs? it takes a good five minutes before it gets above 50 degrees or hotter
There must be a long trip from your combi to your tap positions.
Just make sure you open the correct valve of the filling loop or you'll never finish draining it!
Ha ha I think you would know if you turned the mains one on .
Al, this is not the case with all combi. My filling loop on combi is just a one way for toping up refilling. not emptying
Mine is either way. So thanks for the tip.
Do you drain from the pipe that goes into boiler? Or the pipe end that feeds the radiators mate?
The one going into the boiler.
@@dereton33 nice one mate, just done it ☮️👌🏽
This is very helpful. What about a boiler with an internal filling loop? An example would be my vaillant eco tec ? I’ve seen An engineer drain it at the boiler with a small little hose ?
It is a bit more of a hassle.
Thanks Al! Love your videos.
I have a 1 year old boiler and the pressure keeps creeping up from 1.5 bar to 2.0 bar every few months and I then drain from the bleed valve. Is it normal for this to happen? (I have even disconnected the filling loop just in case it was letting water through).
No it is an indication that either the pressure vessel has a problem or the het exchanger.
Hello. A good clear video but I've an old Morco super compact FEB 24E There is only one valve switch and it's on the mains pipe not the return. What should i do ?
Either use the main drain valve or bleed valves on the rads.
@@dereton33 thanks
Boiler diagnosed with faulty heat exchanger.whilst I wait for new boiler is it ok to bleed rads until at 1 bar in order for me to turn on central heating for hour to warm house and turn off again when pressure increases again?
Yes certainly.
Hi Al, another great vid! Do you have a link for the thermometer on the return pipe please.
It is in my Amazon shop.
Hi Al, you are the master of plumbing! My boiler pressure is always rising and stops at 4.0 bar, it then drips out the PRV outside (copper pipe) and drips every minute or so, it's quite a bit over any period of time. I think the heat exchange plate is weeping through inside, after some investigation, it's a flexicom boiler and an expensive fix for an old boiler like this. Any advice or hints/tips apart from replacing part or replacing boiler? ty
That is the usual cause, do make sure the filling loop valves are not letting by, if it is connected. I would ditch the boiler if it is the exchanger, they are just to expensive to replace.
Hi Mate. I would value your advice re persistent pressure loss on my Baxi duo tec combi boiler. A few weeks ago it was losing pressure regularly every day or so we had no heating. I had thought i'd sorted it when I repressurised the expansion vessel to 1 bar. This brought the pressure back to within limits. It lasted 3 weeks before we had no heating again. I re pressurised the system. This lasted 11 days. I did it yesterday and we have no pressure today. We have
been using the central heating more than usual during this cold spell. I wonder if it is the prv? I can find no leaks anywhere. there was no moisture coming from the expansion vessel valve and I can see no moisture coming from the outside prv pipe end. the boiler is 10yrs old. I am capable to fit a new prv or clean it and fit a new seal. Do you think this is the next step? All the Best from Durham
If it was the PRV you would see it it from the pipe outlet. This is either a pressure vessel problem. a leak on the system somewhere, or the heat exchanger.
@@dereton33 I had another look at the exit from the prv pipe when the heating was on and it was dripping. So, last night, I took the plunge and took the front off the prv. The seal was shot. Luckily, having recently raided Screwfix, I had a new prv which I have put on. I seem to have sorted it, fingers crossed! Thanks for you help.
PRV valve works for me by turning slowly water will come out Then turn it fast and it will reseal IF water still flows then PRV requires replacement.
Great tip. I just don`t like touching them getting them, to reseal can be a pain.
@@dereton33 Most PRV ,s are held in position with a circlip so to change out is no big problem
Hi my combi boiler will not stay lit unless I take off the combustion cover and have the hot tap running and the heating will not work at all, do you have any idea what the problem could be?
No pressure, 3 way valve or PRV blown, overheat switch. I really need to see it to diagnose properly.
@@dereton33 I think it may be the overheat switch then because when the cover is on the boiler it will light and cut out over and over with the hot tap running until it goes over a certain temperature then won't light at all until it has cooled down and has been reset, thanks for the speedy reply by the way definitely earned yourself a sub 👍
Hi Al, as a man of many years experience, I wonder if you can solve a long running problem for me...?
My Ideal Logic Combi 35 boiler has been dropping pressure for years now and although not ideal, (excuse the pun) we've got by with regular topping up, plus annual servicing and replacing many parts in the boiler.
Just recently as the pressure began to drop again over the colder spells, I put some leak sealant into the system, which did actually delay the pressure droppimg again by a few weeks, as opposed to every couple of days, so I'm pretty confident the, sealer found a tiny leak somewhere within the, system.
All of our pipework is concealed within stud walls, so not accessible.
I noticed when topping up a week or so ago, that the cold water isolation valve has been dripping - very small amount - when the boiler isn't running and the pipe, plus radiators are cold - I originally thought it may have just been condensation.
The boiler runs fine, heats the rads and water and when the pressure is correct, It runs like a dream, but only appears to drop pressure if I turn the room stat down again and don't have any heating on.
Many different heating engineers have looked at this, but still none have fully rectified this fault. It's cost me a fortune in heating engineer's bills
I've triple-checked for leaking rads, valves, damp patches on the ceilings etc - we are in a town house - and there are no visible leaks to be seen anywhere.
The original boiler would be 10 years old now, but I bought another identical used boiler just a few years old and had a heating engineer replace the old one, around 3 o 4 years, ago.
This problem appears to still be ongoing and I don't want to continue with the constsnt topping up, nor do I want to replace the boiler again if this is a curable fault, which I believe it must be.
How likely is a very small leak from the isolation valve (blue tap) to cause the pressure to drop constantly? Do you think a replacement valve could potentially cure this fault?
Do you know of any common faults regarding leaks inside the Ideal Logic Combi 35 boiler itself, other than the usual PRV, or faulty expansion vessel?
Hoping you may have some suggestions as to how to find the source of the leak and possible solutions...?
Appreciate any advice/helo/ suggestions, you can offer.
Regards, Darren.
Hi Darren, certainly that valve would be worth changing. I would also check any drain valves for leaks. Another source of leaks is radiator valve packing glands. They often only leak when the system is cold. As you say other culprits are the PRV or expansion vessel. As the leak sealer you put in originally did slow down the pressure drop, makes me think you still have a small leak possibly on a soldered fitting somewhere, which takes up when the system is hot but starts to leak when the system goes cold. Might be worth trying a drop more system leak sealer.
@@dereton33 Hi Al, thanks so much for taking the time to reply regarding the low pressure fault on my boiler. I will get the isolation valeve on the cold water feed changed - this could possibly (well, hopefully) be the main cause for the pressure drop. I will check all packing glands, plus joints on all radiators one more time, though having done this a fair few times before, it's unlikely that I will find a leak, I think. Just one final question for you Al - on the Ideal Logic Combi boilers, are you aware of any common fault inside the boiler housing whereby a mechanical joint or component may leak over time, especially when the boiler is not goving out heat or hot water? If the fault does not prove to be the isolation valve after replacing this with a new one, I'm back to square one! Am I able to (legally) replace the cold water feed isolation valve myself? I am not a qualified heating engineer...
Hey Al what's happened to your 'spooky faces Halloween vid? My little one used to love watching it.
I will check for you, did not know it had gone. Ok found it ruclips.net/video/vjJJ2MmNERg/видео.html
Or just open the radiator bleed valve.
Might take a long time.
@@dereton33 what if you open them all lol. Only kidding mate, great video.
I really need help with this, I am a single mother and don’t have a clue what’s been said, can someone please help maybe do a video call with me to help me, I would really appreciate it
Sorry my video was not clearer for you.