I put inhibitor to my heating system last month. Instead of making a special tool like yours, I pour the inhibitor direct via the vent of the towel rack in my bathroom, the vent holes of towel rack are usually at the top rather at the side, hence we can pour the inhibitor without any special tool. Firstly, I drained the water in the towel rack down like you did, then poured the inhibtor into the rack at the top with the help of a small funnel. This could be a simpler method to most layman like me.
Undoing the bottom connections would stress me out too much, I'd probably just get narrow flexible hose and use the siphoning principle to the water out (measuring of course). Then there's less chance of post-filling leaks.
Alternatively if you have a towel rad in your bathroom just pour it in the top with a funnel, no need for that fancy tool. Also no carpet to get wet either!
19 years in the trade, never thought of doing this. I usually use a hose with a rad tail and a funnel. I really like this idea as there's now risk of spilling any. Thanks!
I am happy with plumbing, but i have to add if i was not i would come here, your steps and guidance are so simple to understand and showing the piece of the rad would help others some fly by these yours are perfect
Great video. I did exactly this in the summer when I took every radiator outside and cleaned them out! 24 rads!!! Remember, 1 bottle of inhibitor might not be enough... They say how many rads they typically do on the bottle. Also remember it doesn't last forever.... I usually drain my system, replace the inhibitor and top up with new water every 3 years.
Out of interest -- I know it's a how long is a piece of string question -- how much do you think a plumber who have charged you to remove 24 rads, clean them out, refit and balance the system? I wasn't aware they needed cleaning that often, mine haven't been done at all in 17yrs, so I'm a bit concerned now...Although, never had any dramas with them.
Today's radiators are too thin and restrictive . Old radiators (Mison style? ) never needed cleaning or inhibitors. Parents house central heating still working after 50 years when we sold it after they passed.
The optimum liquid to refill the system with would be deionized or distilled water. Also there is no reason one could not use automotive radiator fluid in the system. It too has rust inhibitors in it. It might be cheaper than a specialized radiator inhibitor.
Best DIY video I've seen in ages. Clear and easy explanations, plus definitely making up one of the filling pipes, which is far better than the plastic one I purchased. Look forward to seeing more videos. Great job 🙂
I agree with all of tye comments below - a very good video with clear explanations of what is going on. Your channel is a great help to all of us DIY plumbers.
Great video !!! I would also suggest removing the radiator covers before doing this job for 2 reasons. First, it actually gives more room, especially for pushing toweling etc around the bleed valve. Secondly, it avoids scratching them - I noticed that there was a lot of scratching around the cover over that top plug.
Excellent videos. Im an avid fan of the Adey Pro MagnaClean. Simplicity itself to introduce an inhibitor to the system. No need to touch a radiator. Just drain off some water from the boiler. Remove the top of the Adey Pro and pour straight from the bottle into the Adey Pro chamber. Using an inhibitor and the Adey Pro my system is ultra clean. The yearly inspection/service clearly shows this when the Adey Pro top is taken off and on the 'magnet' there's nothing and the water in the system is almost drinkable.
Just seen your comment after writing the same method myself. My plumber showed me how to do it (before he moved out of the area). As you say, simplicity itself.
If you’ve got a magnetic filter attached to your boiler/CH system it’s even easier. Just close the in & out valves. Unscrew the top and pour in the inhibitor. No tool manufacturing required! Otherwise this is a great video and technique for those who don’t have one.
Interesting approach. I simply isolate the header tank (vented system), drain the tank, then chuck the inhibitor in the tank and open the isolation valve.
Don’t you take out from the system more than just what’s in the head of tank? I like to make sure that I’m not only empty the tank. I also empty the system of quite a bit of water then using a pipe feed it directly into the outlet from the head tank and the container contents will be sucked right down into the Central Heating system.
Ive been doing this task for over 40 years and its always good to watch someone else show their method. Spot on demonstration. Ticked every box for me. Well done. Ps I might have used a tank connector in the bottle cap ??
Great tip and video bud. Another way is adding inhibitor via the magnetic filter hopper which most have these days. I plan to remove my sludge filled rads in the summer fkr w good clean thanks to your videos.
Clever little tool! You could use a funnel ( you can get one that has a plastic flexible hose at the end ) but it's a lot messier than what you showed so I'll be making one of these for sure!
If the house has a towel rail there is no need to make up a filler with a flexi hose as the inhibitor can be tipped into the top of the towel rail after it has been drained. I always like to hear new tips eeven after 30 years!!
Using the normal used filling position would also work. Connect the filling hose to the CV side and fill the hose from the other end with the inhibitor fluid, then connect it to the closed water fill tap which you use for normal filling. Open the tap a little, then open the valve on the CV side. The inhibitor will be pushed in the CV system, followed by regular tap water. No special tooling needed and no possibility on radiator leaks at the end.
Top video gezza, With your help watching this and other ones I've managed to help my mom with her changes to her new bungalow, renovated bathroom kitchen and the living room so thanks again 10/10
Great video. Bravo. I am gonna do that next weekend. One question: I have a 12 years old heating system, do I use the inhibotor right away or do I have to perform some other action before e.g. cleaning - flushing? which is a bit out of my diy skills.
Great Video, very helpful. how often should you add the inhibitor on a combi boiler? will plumbers do this on a service every 12 months, don't know if mine has any at all ? how can you tell.
Not sure about Sentinel, but most other brand bottles are the same size as an AdBlue nozzle thread. Then a couple turns of PTFE on the spigot side and it fits snugly into the rad thread 👍🏻
Great stuff. We live in an area where the water is quite high in limescale. The rads have been bled but the ones up and downstairs furthest from the boiler are quite cool even when the heating is full on. We'll be giving this a go very soon.
Thats what the same number of turns on the lock shield bit is about. Research ‘radiator balancing’. You restrict hot flow to the rads nearer your boiler by closing the lock shields on them a bit, so that hot water makes it to the furthest ones. This guy has a video on it! ruclips.net/video/7NsZ2d2Oups/видео.htmlsi=ZzQqzzByU0wtTIN_
Great video and keep them coming, but would probably have been better to use a radiator without radiator extensions on it, as to the uninformed this may of been confusing
Great little tip👍👍👏 One thought, when it comes to the last task of bleeding the air out and topping up the water level, then if the flow valve is opened and the bleed valve is opened then the water coming in will push any air out? If both valves are opened then surely the air will be pushed into the pipework and go through the system before it can be bled out.🤔🤔🤞🤞
What size fittings did you use on the flexi hose? 15mm x 1/2"? Need to do mine after removing a load of radiators while decorating. Keep up the videos, really helping me take on the whole house. Also plan on building my own workshop in the next year or so.
You made us laugh in this video talking about nice dish and in the previous video talking about nice curtain when you do plumbing !!!!!! Now i know who is on top in your house... hahahahahahahah; bless you man !! Highly informative videos, thank you. This also i am going to do in my friend's house....what about sticking in a water - hose pipe with a plastic funnel to fill !!?? The idea is the same, but equipment may be simple !!!!
To refill the rad, i usually only open the TRV until it's filled then open the lockshield, as for the filling tool, i used a fitting for the rad blank to copper then upright to a 54 x 15 reducer as a funnel.
Can you please elaborate on balancing the rads. You counted the number of turns out on the left hand side valve so as to put it back in the same open position. Surely adjusting the thermostatic valve on the right hand side also effects balancing?
Top man!!! When I learn anything new regarding plumbing tips it makes me smile you sir are so generous sharing info keep up the good content. New Subscription added
Hi great video! Perfect for what I need. I'm replacing a radiator and need to add inhibitor, i was gonna add a 1 litre bottle? Us that too much, would 500ml be better? Can you add too much? How much is too much? Thanks 😊
Thank you for one more wonderfull and informative video question is why do need to fill inhabitor in the radiator, do it need to be filled in all radiators or only one? Will you please make video of gas boil service.🖒🖒🖒
Your welcome. Fill one and then circulate which will spread the inhibitor throughout the system. Do this either yearly or when any work is done on the system
Hi I got rid of the black stuff from all my radiators by taking off all 9 of my radiators and flushing out with a hose I put all the radiators back tightened up all the valves as you said in your video you open the air valve before putting in the inhibitor do I do this to all 9 of my radiators or just the one thank you in advance by the way keep up the good work👍
Great instructional videos. Watched several that you’ve created. My question though is regarding the drain spigot on several downstairs radiators. Rather than breaking the joint, I thought this would be a simpler solution for draining the water for inhibitor additions. However all three when opened don’t release any water. How complicated are these fittings and how prone to getting blocked are they?
You are the type of "DIY guru" my friends think I am. But you actually know what you're talking about. My advice has potential to void your insurance :D
But if we feed inhibitor using towel raditor without feeding tool, i.e pour straight into the towel radiator, do we still need to undo other nut please?
Thank you for this video, very helpful. Q : On a pressurised system how is the Inhibitor going to mix with the rest of the system fluid if the Pump is simply pushing the liquid around? Wouldn't it remain unmixed?
A nice way to do this is to add extra height pipes above the height of your radiators in your home upstairs connecting to the Flow and Return Central heating pipes maybe in an Airing cupboard with a connection to attach the additive and a air release valve
Thanks for the great vid. Just to make sure I get the correct flexible connector what size is the fitting that screws into the rad where the bung is? Cheers
like your videos,very helpfull and make the jobs easy. i have a vaillant boiler that i cant leave on,as it fills its self up and f23's every time. could you do a quick video on what could be happening,as getting bored keep draining some water out everytime i have a shower!! would be greatly appreciated, from a long time subscriber Neil.
An invaluable tip for all my fellow BEGINNERS who are worried about leaks after doing a DIY job: Simply wrap toilet tissue around the plumbing connections you've made and check them out after using the water/heating. For peace of mind, leave the tissue in place for a couple of days. If the tissue is still bone dry....😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
I always use my wet/dry hoover, with a towel under the valves and then a Funnel with a short but long enough piece of hose .end of the funnel fit into hose, hose goes into top of rad/towel rail usually as much that can go in 6 to 12 inches depending on rad and fill take seconds ,but that is handy and tbh i doubt i'll ever use it, I may far far into the future have a need for something similar and as an old school plumber i have made many gadgets to get around situations many are single use but have come in handy for another situation...
I'll stick to my usual method. Pour a bottle in the header tank, stop the tank refilling, open a draincock on a rad to take out a few pints, refill header. I do it every year and I think my way has less risk of ending up with a leaky joint on a rad. No special tools or hoses to be made up.
@@robertcammish2776 I did not appreciate how common sealed systems have become. The only systems that I have touched are my own and my children's and all have headers.
Hi, Great Vid - really appreciate the no nonsense approach!! Is it possible to balance the heating system myself?? and if so how do you do it (I don't believe my system has ever been balanced!!) TIA
Yes the bathroom towel rail is the easiest way. First isolate the radiator by closing the valves then take the plug out on the top and with a tube syphon out approximately a litre of water into a container and then add your inhibitor to the radiator, top up with level with some of the water you removed replace the plug open the valves and your done.
I put inhibitor to my heating system last month. Instead of making a special tool like yours, I pour the inhibitor direct via the vent of the towel rack in my bathroom, the vent holes of towel rack are usually at the top rather at the side, hence we can pour the inhibitor without any special tool. Firstly, I drained the water in the towel rack down like you did, then poured the inhibtor into the rack at the top with the help of a small funnel. This could be a simpler method to most layman like me.
Yep for those with a towel rad this is the way
Undoing the bottom connections would stress me out too much, I'd probably just get narrow flexible hose and use the siphoning principle to the water out (measuring of course). Then there's less chance of post-filling leaks.
That's the way I do it too.
Amazing, this was my plan with similar gadgets😊
Alternatively if you have a towel rad in your bathroom just pour it in the top with a funnel, no need for that fancy tool. Also no carpet to get wet either!
Yeah your right however this is a more generic method in a sense as not everyone has towel rads
Came here to say this, so much easier
This is what I do too.
The highest radiator in the house, or doesn't it matter?
I thought the magnetic stick 🧲 thing went into bathroom towel rail. ?
This is what youtube was made for. Bloody brilliant stuff, cheers mate!
Well buddy RUclips was actually made to make money but these are bonuses 😊
19 years in the trade, never thought of doing this. I usually use a hose with a rad tail and a funnel.
I really like this idea as there's now risk of spilling any.
Thanks!
Never heard of the plumb tub before, that's on the shopping list. Another great video, thanks and well done.
I am happy with plumbing, but i have to add if i was not i would come here, your steps and guidance are so simple to understand and showing the piece of the rad would help others some fly by these yours are perfect
Best vid I've ever seen on the subject!. No boring introductions or explanations, straight into it and very professional. Well done
Great video. I did exactly this in the summer when I took every radiator outside and cleaned them out! 24 rads!!! Remember, 1 bottle of inhibitor might not be enough... They say how many rads they typically do on the bottle. Also remember it doesn't last forever.... I usually drain my system, replace the inhibitor and top up with new water every 3 years.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Out of interest -- I know it's a how long is a piece of string question -- how much do you think a plumber who have charged you to remove 24 rads, clean them out, refit and balance the system? I wasn't aware they needed cleaning that often, mine haven't been done at all in 17yrs, so I'm a bit concerned now...Although, never had any dramas with them.
Today's radiators are too thin and restrictive . Old radiators (Mison style? ) never needed cleaning or inhibitors. Parents house central heating still working after 50 years when we sold it after they passed.
@@KeithChegwin24That's a lot of radiators, Buckingham palace by any chance?
The optimum liquid to refill the system with would be deionized or distilled water. Also there is no reason one could not use automotive radiator fluid in the system. It too has rust inhibitors in it. It might be cheaper than a specialized radiator inhibitor.
Best DIY video I've seen in ages. Clear and easy explanations, plus definitely making up one of the filling pipes, which is far better than the plastic one I purchased. Look forward to seeing more videos. Great job 🙂
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks
I agree with all of tye comments below - a very good video with clear explanations of what is going on. Your channel is a great help to all of us DIY plumbers.
Much appreciated!
Probably one of the most useful tips I've seen in a while. Thanks ..
Glad it was helpful!
what a bloody marvellous video. Sort of thing everyman should know.
Or woman.
I add inhibitor via my FERNOX TF-1 magnetic separator. It's far less palaver. No messing around with rads.
Great video !!! I would also suggest removing the radiator covers before doing this job for 2 reasons. First, it actually gives more room, especially for pushing toweling etc around the bleed valve. Secondly, it avoids scratching them - I noticed that there was a lot of scratching around the cover over that top plug.
Excellent videos. Im an avid fan of the Adey Pro MagnaClean. Simplicity itself to introduce an inhibitor to the system. No need to touch a radiator. Just drain off some water from the boiler. Remove the top of the Adey Pro and pour straight from the bottle into the Adey Pro chamber.
Using an inhibitor and the Adey Pro my system is ultra clean. The yearly inspection/service clearly shows this when the Adey Pro top is taken off and on the 'magnet' there's nothing and the water in the system is almost drinkable.
👍 thanks for sharing
Everyone should install one of these. They pay for themselves in no time.
Just seen your comment after writing the same method myself. My plumber showed me how to do it (before he moved out of the area). As you say, simplicity itself.
If you’ve got a magnetic filter attached to your boiler/CH system it’s even easier. Just close the in & out valves. Unscrew the top and pour in the inhibitor. No tool manufacturing required! Otherwise this is a great video and technique for those who don’t have one.
👍
all the years as a heating engineer i never once counted the turns on the return valve, it was always ach that will do it. good job pal
Thanks 😊
He’s only trying to help the inexperienced people like myself
Not everybody is a heating engineer
@@richardhanley1342 your point?
@@richardhanley1342 I'm not discrediting his work by any means, read my message I praised him.
Interesting approach. I simply isolate the header tank (vented system), drain the tank, then chuck the inhibitor in the tank and open the isolation valve.
Yeah that's what I thought was they way it was put in lol
Don’t you take out from the system more than just what’s in the head of tank?
I like to make sure that I’m not only empty the tank. I also empty the system of quite a bit of water then using a pipe feed it directly into the outlet from the head tank and the container contents will be sucked right down into the Central Heating system.
A really great tip and wonderfully clear explanation and demonstration. Excellent video camera work and editing, too! Thanks so much for sharing.
Thank you for this video, I am adding 7 new radiators and didn't know about this stuff. Really appreciate this knowledge as I am newbie
Good tip, thanks. I use a 22mm socket to undue the blank plug. It reduces the risk of marking the radiator paint.
I use a garden weed sprayer, put an adapter on the end pump it into the top of a rad or filling loop job done
Ive been doing this task for over 40 years and its always good to watch someone else show their method. Spot on demonstration. Ticked every box for me. Well done.
Ps I might have used a tank connector in the bottle cap ??
Thanks a lot. Yep a tank connector would work a treat
Great tip and video bud. Another way is adding inhibitor via the magnetic filter hopper which most have these days. I plan to remove my sludge filled rads in the summer fkr w good clean thanks to your videos.
👍👍
@@TheDIYGuy1do a video on how to clean magnetic filter?
I think this has to be one of your best tips yet Cameron. Great video, see you soon.👍👍
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks for the tip fella , did exactly that today, stay lucky, stay safe! 😉
Thanks, you too!
Great video. Always wondered how it was done. Definitely going to make one of those tools as I'm going to need it for future jobs 👍
I have to say, mate, that you bang out some excellent videos. I've found loads of useful info which I've put to good use, so thank you very much
Your welcome 🙏
Some really good information here and well presented. You're a credit to the old school RUclips videos
Love these tips and short cuts. Reminds me of the series of short programme in the eighties that provided tips for DIYers and tradesmen
Awesome info, I've always wondered if there was an easier way of adding inhibitor fluid to a rad, know I now - thanks pal!
Clever little tool! You could use a funnel ( you can get one that has a plastic flexible hose at the end ) but it's a lot messier than what you showed so I'll be making one of these for sure!
Great video, expertly explained. Can I ask how often should you add inhibitor?
Once again thank you for another amazing video, I very much appreciate all your help on our DIY jobs 👍🏻😎
Very welcome
Great video. As always,easy to follow and understand. I've never done this job before but I will now. Thanks 👍👍
Glad to help. Thanks
This is a really good way of filling up with inhibitor thank you. You mentioned the “balancing of the radiators” how do you do this please. Thanks.
You've taught me so much and saved me so much money - just wanted to say cheers for that!
Plumberparts and The DIY Guy - both everyday nice guys 👍
Thanks. James’ channel is brilliant too isn’t it. Hoping to collab together this year
Great video! Do you need to switch off the boiler before carrying this out?
Very well explained, even with the sound muted. Keep up the good work.
If the house has a towel rail there is no need to make up a filler with a flexi hose as the inhibitor can be tipped into the top of the towel rail after it has been drained. I always like to hear new tips eeven after 30 years!!
Why are the best ideas so simple?👍
Using the normal used filling position would also work. Connect the filling hose to the CV side and fill the hose from the other end with the inhibitor fluid, then connect it to the closed water fill tap which you use for normal filling. Open the tap a little, then open the valve on the CV side. The inhibitor will be pushed in the CV system, followed by regular tap water. No special tooling needed and no possibility on radiator leaks at the end.
Brill vid, and a quality plumber. Very informative, expertly explained and demonstrated. 👌🏼
Glad you enjoyed it
Top video gezza, With your help watching this and other ones I've managed to help my mom with her changes to her new bungalow, renovated bathroom kitchen and the living room so thanks again 10/10
Your welcome 🙏
Great post, very useful. Thanks bud!
thank you, for that tip sorted several ie inhibitor and dropping rad forward to paint behind..
Great video. Bravo. I am gonna do that next weekend.
One question: I have a 12 years old heating system, do I use the inhibotor right away or do I have to perform some other action before e.g. cleaning - flushing?
which is a bit out of my diy skills.
Thanks for your supporting video
Great tip.
What length and internal bore is your flexi connector?
Great Video, very helpful. how often should you add the inhibitor on a combi boiler? will plumbers do this on a service every 12 months, don't know if mine has any at all ? how can you tell.
Not sure about Sentinel, but most other brand bottles are the same size as an AdBlue nozzle thread. Then a couple turns of PTFE on the spigot side and it fits snugly into the rad thread 👍🏻
Interesting 👍 cheers
Great stuff. We live in an area where the water is quite high in limescale. The rads have been bled but the ones up and downstairs furthest from the boiler are quite cool even when the heating is full on. We'll be giving this a go very soon.
The water in a radiator or heating system has nothing to do whatsoever with LIMESCALE !!!
Thats what the same number of turns on the lock shield bit is about. Research ‘radiator balancing’. You restrict hot flow to the rads nearer your boiler by closing the lock shields on them a bit, so that hot water makes it to the furthest ones. This guy has a video on it!
ruclips.net/video/7NsZ2d2Oups/видео.htmlsi=ZzQqzzByU0wtTIN_
Great video and keep them coming, but would probably have been better to use a radiator without radiator extensions on it, as to the uninformed this may of been confusing
Thanks. Fair point
@@TheDIYGuy1 ....but I will still be stealing this hack 😁👍
Hah run with it 😊
It’s brilliant video thank you.
How often we need to add inhibitors?
Welcome. Yearly 👍
Legend. Love the work you do. Clear and consise. Any rule of thumb on how many Radiators one litre will cover?
1 litre will do you for around 10 rads. If more, go with a second bottle
as normal clear,precise,and to the point instructions!! ....top man😊
Glad it helped!
My wife would like to adopt you. She remembers watching videos with plumbers. 😮
Great little tip👍👍👏
One thought, when it comes to the last task of bleeding the air out and topping up the water level, then if the flow valve is opened and the bleed valve is opened then the water coming in will push any air out?
If both valves are opened then surely the air will be pushed into the pipework and go through the system before it can be bled out.🤔🤔🤞🤞
Your welcome. That doesn’t happen because the air is always at the top of the radiator.
What size fittings did you use on the flexi hose? 15mm x 1/2"? Need to do mine after removing a load of radiators while decorating.
Keep up the videos, really helping me take on the whole house. Also plan on building my own workshop in the next year or so.
Glad to help. 1/2” to 15mm compression coupler.
@@TheDIYGuy1 my bad, I ment on the isolator side?
Another great video very easy guide to follow
Glad you think so!
Great vid, thank you. 2 quick questions, does the heating system need to be turned off? And how often would you add inhibitor?
Thanks again!
Thanks. Every year you can top up inhibitor as never too much. Yes turn the heating system off.
@@TheDIYGuy1 many thanks.
Thanks for this. Very informative.
You made us laugh in this video talking about nice dish and in the previous video talking about nice curtain when you do plumbing !!!!!! Now i know who is on top in your house... hahahahahahahah; bless you man !! Highly informative videos, thank you. This also i am going to do in my friend's house....what about sticking in a water - hose pipe with a plastic funnel to fill !!?? The idea is the same, but equipment may be simple !!!!
Nice concise video.
Can you take some water out using the hose outlet on the boiler filling loop? Then top up using a towel radiator if you have one?
Excellent information video! Thank you very much! Be Blessed!!
Legend!. Just what i was looking for. Cheers
To refill the rad, i usually only open the TRV until it's filled then open the lockshield, as for the filling tool, i used a fitting for the rad blank to copper then upright to a 54 x 15 reducer as a funnel.
Good vid ,well thought out for non plumbers.
Thanks 👍
Great video 👍🏼
How often should this be done?
Because I think the British Standard says every 5 years if I remember correctly. Thanks in advance.
I usually go with every year or two but if you do work in the system or a drain down you may want to do it sooner. Thanks
@@TheDIYGuy1 Ok, I’ll go with 2 years, thanks Bud 👍🏼
That what I wanted to know.
Thanks for answering as well
Excellent video, can i add to any radiator in the system?
Can you please elaborate on balancing the rads. You counted the number of turns out on the left hand side valve so as to put it back in the same open position. Surely adjusting the thermostatic valve on the right hand side also effects balancing?
No, it doesn't. Check out a video on balancing.
Top man!!! When I learn anything new regarding plumbing tips it makes me smile you sir are so generous sharing info keep up the good content. New Subscription added
Thanks for subscribing and glad to help
I just drained the radiator and used a syringe to inject the inhibitor left by removing the bleed screw. Tedious but it worked.
Thanks DIY Guy, Very helpful advice and clear instructions. BTW, the tattoos look great! 😊
Brilliant, thanks
Thats a clever catch tray. I could have done with that on many occasions. Save messing up the roasting trays 😄
Hah absolutely
Thanks for the tip mate. Just one question…do we have to put this inhibitor to all my radiators? If not which one do we use?
Use any one ☝️
Hi great video! Perfect for what I need. I'm replacing a radiator and need to add inhibitor, i was gonna add a 1 litre bottle? Us that too much, would 500ml be better? Can you add too much? How much is too much? Thanks 😊
Great video and super helpful. One question, what size connection is on the end of the flexible tap connector to allow it to screw into the radiator?
Thank you for one more wonderfull and informative video question is why do need to fill inhabitor in the radiator, do it need to be filled in all radiators or only one?
Will you please make video of gas boil service.🖒🖒🖒
Your welcome. Fill one and then circulate which will spread the inhibitor throughout the system. Do this either yearly or when any work is done on the system
@@TheDIYGuy1 thank you very much.
Please do not forget to upload boiler service video.🖒🖒🖒
Excellent tip. How often should you pop in inhibitor? If you put it in too early does that cause any issues?
You can’t really over do it 👍. I’d go with every year or two unless any work has been done then sooner.
👍 Many thanks@@TheDIYGuy1
Don't be inhibited. Go for it
Hi I got rid of the black stuff from all my radiators by taking off all 9 of my radiators and flushing out with a hose I put all the radiators back tightened up all the valves as you said in your video you open the air valve before putting in the inhibitor do I do this to all 9 of my radiators or just the one thank you in advance by the way keep up the good work👍
I'd no idea this was a thing! We had a new boiler not too long ago. Is it worth using this??
Definitely, especially with newer boilers 😉
Great instructional videos. Watched several that you’ve created. My question though is regarding the drain spigot on several downstairs radiators. Rather than breaking the joint, I thought this would be a simpler solution for draining the water for inhibitor additions. However all three when opened don’t release any water. How complicated are these fittings and how prone to getting blocked are they?
You are the type of "DIY guru" my friends think I am.
But you actually know what you're talking about. My advice has potential to void your insurance :D
😂😂 I never think I’m the guru. Always plenty to learn mate
Brilliant video. just one question. why not remove the bleeding valve to add the inhibitor instead of also removing radiator nut on the other side?
Thanks. If you do that then you won’t have anywhere for the air to dissipate as you add the inhibitor
@@TheDIYGuy1 Wel done. This thought never came to my mind. thanks a lot.
But if we feed inhibitor using towel raditor without feeding tool, i.e pour straight into the towel radiator, do we still need to undo other nut please?
That’s such a clever homemade tool!
Thank you for this video, very helpful.
Q : On a pressurised system how is the Inhibitor going to mix with the rest of the system fluid if the Pump is simply pushing the liquid around? Wouldn't it remain unmixed?
Glad to help. It will in the rads as it moves through the system
Thank you for great tips!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video more plumbing like this please ❤
Will do!
A nice way to do this is to add extra height pipes above the height of your radiators in your home upstairs connecting to the Flow and Return Central heating pipes maybe in an Airing cupboard with a connection to attach the additive and a air release valve
Yet again, many thanks for a great video.
My pleasure!
Thanks for the great vid. Just to make sure I get the correct flexible connector what size is the fitting that screws into the rad where the bung is? Cheers
Your welcome. 1/2 inch
Great video, very well explained and useful to know.many thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
like your videos,very helpfull and make the jobs easy. i have a vaillant boiler that i cant leave on,as it fills its self up and f23's every time. could you do a quick video on what could be happening,as getting bored keep draining some water out everytime i have a shower!! would be greatly appreciated, from a long time subscriber Neil.
Thanks! Can I just check if there's a particular radiator you should use? i.e the highest one in the house etc? Or does it not matter?
Your welcome. It doesn’t matter 👍
An invaluable tip for all my fellow BEGINNERS who are worried about leaks after doing a DIY job:
Simply wrap toilet tissue around the plumbing connections you've made and check them out after using the water/heating. For peace of mind, leave the tissue in place for a couple of days. If the tissue is still bone dry....😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
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I always use my wet/dry hoover, with a towel under the valves and then a Funnel with a short but long enough piece of hose .end of the funnel fit into hose, hose goes into top of rad/towel rail usually as much that can go in 6 to 12 inches depending on rad and fill take seconds ,but that is handy and tbh i doubt i'll ever use it, I may far far into the future have a need for something similar and as an old school plumber i have made many gadgets to get around situations many are single use but have come in handy for another situation...
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I'll stick to my usual method. Pour a bottle in the header tank, stop the tank refilling, open a draincock on a rad to take out a few pints, refill header. I do it every year and I think my way has less risk of ending up with a leaky joint on a rad. No special tools or hoses to be made up.
Most systems don’t have header tanks, but yes if you have one then put it in there, but sealed systems the header tank just isn’t an option!
@@robertcammish2776 I did not appreciate how common sealed systems have become. The only systems that I have touched are my own and my children's and all have headers.
Great job this one really helped me 😊
Glad it helped!
Hi, Great Vid - really appreciate the no nonsense approach!! Is it possible to balance the heating system myself?? and if so how do you do it (I don't believe my system has ever been balanced!!) TIA
Yes you can! I’ve a video on my channel explaining how
Yes the bathroom towel rail is the easiest way. First isolate the radiator by closing the valves then take the plug out on the top and with a tube syphon out approximately a litre of water into a container and then add your inhibitor to the radiator, top up with level with some of the water you removed replace the plug open the valves and your done.