HOW TO REMOVE BATH FOR WALK IN SHOWER - Step By Step
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- I show you how to remove a bath for a walk in shower step by step.
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Hope you enjoy gang. I look forward to reading your comments about how I installed the shower tray in a way that means it will NEVER MOVE!
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Hi I qualified as a level 2 plumber last year. What do you think is the best way to gain experience. I am still quite new to this and need to gain confidence. Can you help
if he spoke properly rather then a kid he would get more followers
My dear old Dad...Did that 50 yrs ago, did a great job too and he had no plumbing experience, still works great today...Was a corner unit, he tiled all 3 walls too, even built a unit for the sink, no mod things way back then, no internet to look at and check, all done with hand tools 🙂
It's always interesting for me, seeing how different countries do their utilities.
Plumbing in the USA is significantly different than how I've seen done in the UK and AU, and electrical different as well, beyond the obvious 120/240v difference.
A shower in the US would have the hot and cold lines run directly to a valve behind the shower liner wall that the shower head is mounted on, blending them in a mechanical valve. Only some of the fanciest (expensive!) designs have gone to electronically controlled valves.
We have both electronic and mechanical mixers. We also use a lot of shower pumps as the water pressure is not great in most houses.
@@DMC888 Correct, what is shown here is to me unusual and the usual method is to have H&C supplies to a shower valve. For me the KISS principle should apply and only where there is a specific advantage should electronics be used anywhere because they are not 100% reliable. UK mains pressures are typically 3Bar min although I have seen over 15Bar on one job that occurred over night due to lack of demand, which blew the seals on the pressure vessels until a pressure limiter was added. The most reliable systems are the traditional gravity feed from a tank supply (fed from mains) that need a pump for a full pressure shower but these flow better than the mains only and can cope with multiple outlets, besides they supply the very best and glorious shower experience. We have two power showers at home, one 28ltrs/min and the other 35ltrs/min at 3Bar. The mains cannot cope with these flow rates so we have a 50gall actual capacity buffer CW tanks
@@clivewilliams3661 I think these electronic systems are creeping in because people want a unit with a built in pump. Adding remote control etc adds a bit of bling 😆.
In my house I have gravity fed + one pump, feeding two showers via two mixer valves. Seems to work well.
@@DMC888 I don't think this system has a built in pump as the HW cylinder is at mains pressure as will the CW supply. All that is being controlled is the flow and the temperature without the classic knobs to dial. The top of the range Mira digital control only gives 15lrs/min maximum flow, which would just about comply with the incoming mains flow (heaven help you if you have two showers going at once as we do). At 15ltrs/min the overhead 250mm 'deluge' is hardly that, both our showers deliver twice that amount on a conventional tank supply at the same time. It seems with digital showers its more about style than performance.
We have two pumps, one for each shower as a single pump would be very large and be running at a less efficient rate most of the time. The 35ltr/min shower has a Grohe multi effect outlet from flood through to needle jet. The needle jet can actually hurt if you are not used to it but it really helps with muscular pain. The shower is so powerful that it can overwhelm the 38mm tray outlet that was supplied as a package.
Glad to see it done on a screeded floor rather than plywood
When cutting muptiple inline pipes its best to stagger your cuts so its easier to use joinrs like my friend is showing. Good work!
Love the video James. As lovely as a walk in shower at floor level is, it doesn’t allow for any maintenance if the floor is concrete. If it were wood it would be fine you could make a way there somehow. On concrete I’d have raised the tray to allow for access to the pipework as someone is gonna be stuffed when the trap needs replacing. Keep up the great work 👍🏻
And how high are you going to raise it to get to the trap to be able to remove and replace it, shouldn't really need to do that in any case it is long life plastic with a flap trap.
Bit of a tit this guy
Raise the tray. lol age are you 95
Don't raise it then couldn't give a toss don't complain when it leaks which it will knob end
@@johnjtplastering6991 It's not yours, so why are you so concerned.
You should peel off edge protection first about 30/40 mm into tray top (not after) and use classi seal around side and back edges of tray in one length. Then panel down to the inside of the seal, Will stop the shower leaking when the silicone line gives up ✌🏼
except classi seal always looks diy to me
@@kimidri yes a seal on the face looks terrible, I think you may have misunderstood, you don’t see it, it goes around the tray that would touch any walls, then the hydro panel laps over it and sits against the tray. It’s bright blue in colour. The stuffs amazing. That seal on the bottom won’t last that long and will blow the unprotected plaster and rot out. He didn’t prime the walls either (at least on camera) Or use a corner profiles. Surprised really because he’s normally pretty good. Doing it in your own place is one thing but showing people? 😵💫✌🏼
Good idea
@j_ping yes I know what it is I've been in building trade 35 years last 17 fitting bathrooms .
I prefer sealant.
If its got past the sealant on front is nothing stop it traveling along or even up sometimes .
I've seen it on rips outs.
Each to there own
Watched another plumber on youtube tank the whole area out with the blue stuff. A bit overkill possibly.
Very pleased to hear a Genesis rendition, and what a fabulous album 'Selling England...' really is. Prog Rock at it's best👌
@1000Zebedee Brill trick of the tail was my first album 👌 😆
Nah Selling England is the bee’s knees!
@@plumberparts 😆 lol
@@plumberpartsI first heard ‘Battle of Epping Forest’ when I was on scout camp. I’d never heard anything like it. My fave Genesis album. “You’re telling me!”
Did the manufacturers say to put silicone around the waste seal, and to the shower profile?
Some insist of a dry fit.
As you ran silicone around the bottom tray first, did the profile sit flat to the tray?
A silver grey, or grey, would have looked better than white silicone, in my opinion. You mentioned in a comment about anthracite, but that is too dark for this grey colour.
Also it might be worth mentioning that different trays and manufacturers tend to state the material to bed down a tray. Dot and dab would not warrant most guarantees manufacturers offer on trays.
Love watching these. When I moved into a house years ago, the water was off downstairs(confirmed) but the taps were live upstairs. Yep, I had two stopcocks!
And one meter?! 😂😂
It's better with the volume off .
Can't believe you did a video now showing me how to do the thing I had to piece together myself last month! Thankfully I didn't make any mistakes I wasn't able to fix, but there were a couple of tips in here I could definitely have used. Oh well, I'll know for next time
Been waiting for this one for ages thanks
A shower tray of this size would typically have a 50mm connection, which will be essential if the flow rates into the shower are good. The waste from the shower should have a gradient of not less than 1:40 i.e. 3" in 10ft to ensure self cleansing of the pipework. The floor tiles don't continue under the shower tray and that will cause a tray where any incidental water that leaks under the shower tray will just sit and fester. It is better to fill this area with latex screed flush with the tiles, plus it will give a sound base for the tray to sit on, having tile adhesive dabs and spray foam is wishful thinking . I would never rely on pvc or laminate wall panelling to provide a waterproof enclosure because inevitably the corners have to be jointed and these will eventually break down allowing moisture behind the panel, where by the time it is spotted is a real problem to sort out. Be aware that pvc panelling moves around a great deal due to heat gain. The temperature in the house can vary by as much as 30degC, which causes big movements in pvc that the joints can't reliably cope with over time. Silicone or profile jointing is not a permanent solution and won't last the life of the panel. The best thing to do is to line the wall with a waterproof membrane such as Schluter Kerdi that will be dressed into the shower tray to make the whole thing waterproof before applying the finish of tiles or panelling. The shower screen should have a manifestation, moreso because it does not have a framed edge.
Also, where is the mechanical ventilation? The opening window can't be relied upon to ventilate the room and remove the steam especially, since the shower cubicle has a dead end next to the shower head.
The size of the shower tray is irrelevant. All that matters is the flow rate of the shower head. The government guidance is that flow rates should be limited to 10L per minute, and a 40mm pipe and trap is capable of more than double that. Certainly on my (boosted) shower, I can only get to about 20L per minute if I remove the shower head.
About 10 years ago, I did a wet room conversion for my aged parents and, being level entry, the fall in the shower tray on that was quite low. That used a 40mm drain (it had a 50mm option) and as that replaced a bath, had a similar area to the one in this video. It's got a 2bar Suart-Turner Moonsoon pump on it (virtually backing onto the shower area) and it doesn't come remotely close to overflowing. Even if I take the shower head off it copes, although the water does tend to spread beyond the tray.
So, unless you are doing something rather extreme, 40mm ought to be fine unless it's a very long run at a fairly shallow gradient.
However, I'd agree that shower tray ought to be on a solid base.
@@TheEulerID The reason that I mentioned the shover tray size is not because of the flow rate of the tray per se but the size is often indicative of the performance that the client wants i.e. big trays tend to go with high performance showers. You may find that the quality trays are all sized for 50mm outlets in any case. Also, the popularity of low entry and level entry showers often means that shower waste gradients can be shallower than the 1:40 recommended and thus require a larger diameter.
I have designed many shower installations and where possible I spec a 50mm outlet as it overcomes many problems. I can't remember the last time I spec;d a shower with only a 10ltr/min flow rate. Although its in the Regs, Building Control don't bother with it along with the smaller bath dimension requirements, they know that home owners regularly change their bathrooms (and kitchens) so its uncontrollable.
At home we have two showers, one a level entry with a slot drain and a 28ltrs/min 3Bar pumped supply and the other with a stone resin tray with a cubicle and a 35ltrs/min 3Bar pumped supply. The level entry slot drain was not supplied as I spec'd it with a 50mm outlet, the builder acquiring a MacAlpine unit from the local plumbers merchant. Having discussed the spec with the tech department at MacAlpine, the decision was to retain the one supplied, even with it 38mm outlet and connect a 50mm pipe to discharge into the drain. It works well so long as the outlet is kept clear of hair etc. but does not have any spare capacity. If I had insisted on the original drain it would have stopped the job for 4 weeks.
Mate, take a break. Shakespeare would really envy you. 30 years ago any of the materials you mentioned didn't exist and yet nothing in my bathroom went wrong.
@@AdrianWT-j9n You are indeed lucky. Over the last 50+years in construction I have seen a great many bathroom failures often caused by attempting to incorporate new materials without really understanding them. We now have managed to consolidate all our knowledge of these new material to be able to put together a very good reliabel spec that doesn't rely on luck.
While being a real bore and ignoring my family and friends, my preferred method for fixing shower trays is to build up the level with mortar/tile adhesive, let it go off and then use silicone and/or crazy-foam. I heard of someone who stuck down a tray with tile adhesive, only for it to crack with a loud bang in the middle of the night (too sticky and not enough give). I reckon the plots you put down are high enough to mitigate this, though.
Amazing video! - I don't mean to be cheeky, but.... Would you consider doing a video in the future that removes a walk-in shower basin and install a bath-tub with shower wall panels?
Oh no, now the wife wants a walk-in shower like that 😂😂😂 👌
"little bit of water" bit of an understatement.
I wish I had a bathroom to renovate now
Looks like great fun 👍
U can have mine😅
Brilliant, I was just about to look for a youtube video on this and this appeared! I'll be doing this soon..
Don’t copy him please
@@leerussell8939 why not?
Thanks, James. Great video 🙂👍🏴
Great video... Best content out there at the moment!
LMAO yes "we all love a good bashing out don't we!" 🤣brilliant video thank you, I want to have this done but I like bashing out too, so I will have a go and then call a plumber and cry at the appropriate time 👍
Thoroughly enjoyed your video, we were let down by a big uk national company and would love to be fit enough to do the job myself but...anyway thanks again for your video.
This is a great practical idea, however, I’m not entirely sure this is a project for some DIY enthusiasts as I can see several aspects of the work that could be challenging.
I. Had a walk in shower fitted the same by Taylor made bathrooms fantastic people well pleased
Jimmy you the gaffer 😂😂
Brilliant performance or I mean video 😂
😎👍🤜
You didnt show how you cut the panel around the window area after you had attached it...please advise
Same method as the cut out on the bottom with the multi cutter - and a steady hand!
@@plumberpartswould a router and flush trim bit work to match the window cut out? Or would it chew up the boards? Cheers
@@jonoooo125 Hmm might be a bit much on those boards. However, give it a try on an offcut and see. Bosch make a mini saw that's really good for them though. The 12v one. It's also VERY ahndy for other stuff: amzn.to/3YIzxw6
I personally cut them to shape then draw around the reveal then take the board out and cut it from the other side. Works perfect 👌
Did you forget about cutting the window reveal, one moment it was a full sheet and the next clip it was cut?
I thought same/commented too. For me that was the bit I was interested in 😂
Singing genesis song , u av gone up in my estimation massively, from top man to superman 😂
Battle of Epping Forest in the next video!
As soon as I heard him singing that I immediately liked the man more 😅
Great video.
What was that shower you used please? Looks like something I am after, where the water is already temperature controlled from a tankless heater
"It lies with me cried the queen of maybe.. For her merchandise he traded in his prize". Great video thank you I am about to do one of the same.
The suppliers always show using there 'internal' corner strips. Can I ask, why do you not use them ? Personally I think they are a faff and pain, especially when doing a U shaped shower - so a left right and rear panel. I would appreciate your comment as I've just stripped a bathroom and I'm ordering products tomorrow... Thanks Paul.
Is there any reason why you didn't TANK the walls first? Or are the aqua panels 100% waterproof and are you confident there will be no damp getting behind the panels?
I was wondering why there seemed to be no waterproofing done. Here in Australia, we are very strict on waterproofing.
If you siliconed the edge of the tray and let it dry, how would the silicone from the corner vertical stick to it to form a tight seal ?
I am amazed someone hasn’t invented something to replace silicone edge seals😊
They way i always install stone shower trays is always with flexible S1 tile adhesive, but a good quality one that has a good flex so if the tray moves in the future which it will it it will cause no cracks
Hi James. Your channel and videos are fantastic, and so helpful. This is my go to site for any help with ‘basic’ plumbing. James - I am wanting to rip out our 20-year old bathroom as it is showing wear and tear, and replace with new step by step using your videos. What I’d like to please kindly ask (and I know some of this may be common sense), but do you have a detailed list of exactly what order to do things in please? Fortunately we have a separate en-suite to use in the meantime, as it won’t be a quick job for me, but I really want to try it myself and learn as I go. I just need to really know the best order to take everything out, and then to put everything back in again. If you can please help that would be amazing. I will then use your videos for each stage. Thank you very much for giving me the confidence to give it a go!! Jim
Use marbles or ball bearings to confirm the drain slope and direction
Just a tip when cutting pipes lay an old cloth under where you cut .
You’re brilliant 😂
@@jaffplumbs26 if that’s brilliant your doomed
He is, done a great job ❤
Nice one, you held tight 🙂
Someone asked about the gunning up of the floor. Was going to say pretty common, just want the minimum taken out as it's just screed that's between 50-75mm thick, so best done by hand/SDS.
Brilliant ❤thanks
Fantastic job, mate! Just found your channel. Liked and Sub'd. Cheers from South Africa.
Im not removing a bath but doing a similar job soon, what tray would you say is a decent buy?
Ideally id like to put it on a riser kit for future plumbing access and drainage height issues.
Answering my own question but the Mira range looks half decent to me and they do an easy plumb riser kit too.
Great video on how to install the shower. I couldn't do it I've no idea. I need to replace my bath for a shower train like that. American noarlunga step into the bath to use in the shower. I have a window just like that in the way thanks anyway
Cant wait to see the rest of the series. I noticed no access left for the waste under the tray, how would you access if need. when ive done trays for customers who wanted a walk in shower ive always advised on having a 100mm buffer so you can get your hand incase any leaks in the future. thank.
If its done properly it will never leak
@@andy0175 surely the rubber washer can perish over time no ?
@@henrywalker8938 Be ready for a new bathroom before the seals give up.
Lovely job.Hold tight.
Great video, question on waterproofing. What’s stopping leaks if the silicon on the shower tray fails which it will after a few years?
Love it many thanks
Hi James great video. Looking for some advice please. We had our bath removed and a shower tray fitted. First time using it it the water wasn’t draining and it overflow onto the floor. The plumber returned and removed rubber seal from the trap and it worked fine. Unfortunately we started to get smell from the drains. The plumber adapted the rubber part and put it back. He ran it for 30 mins and it drains fine. As soon as anyone stands in the tray and has a shower within a few minutes the water level rises and you need to turn it off. No idea what to do.
Lovely video 😊 very informative
Lovely video again Jim couldn’t help noticing you singing that Genesis song there, from selling England by the pound, fantastic ❤ keep it up boy!
Their best album!
@@plumberparts yeah, absolutely fantastic I love all their stuff 👍
@@plumberpartswhilst on hols in the Yorkshire Dales atm noticed that the house we usually stay in have had a bit of plumbing since last year they got some press fits on some joints etc on the radiators - by the way love the voices you put on your videos- always brings a smile to my face!!!👍
Exactly what I want
Do you add waterproofing, or is it not necessary.
Theres always going to be the debate about sealing the profile to the wall. I personally never do. Only sealant i use is in plugs and a bit behind the screws. Nearly every manufacturer say don't seal profile to the wall as it holds in water.
I’m about to do this job at home, I have the same tray set up, waste in same place etc, but my shower will be at the other end of the tray, but the tray will be same way round as yours, would the shower still drain away as good! As the waste will be at opposite end of the tray
Cheers
Another brilliant video, and I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us, I have a quick question here for you, Have you got a link where one can buy that shower tray trap from and what is this actual brand called? heard you call it a fanny trap.
Hi, I have a aqualisa quartz digital shower set up for a combi - It is randomly tripping out the ring main (sometimes it goes a few days with out tripping). Is it serviceable or just time for a new one?
What are the pros and cons between plastic hollow core wall panels vs ply panels with plastic laminate on top? Can’t decide what to use in my bathroom!! Cheers
Ultimately the plastic never break down and is waterproof.
The ply backed wetboard is obviously wood. It's obviously far stronger but if your careful the plastic is good stuff as long as you don't buy the flimsy cheap stuff.
@@chrissybfcful Many thanks for comments!
@@chrissybfcfulyh I had some for my own bath that wasnt very good. The decorative laminate on the plastic chipped off the bottom after a while.
@@tirvplumbing yeah I've had some rubbish to fit over the years. The best stuff it the one that is wrapped. That stuff is brilliant and very durable. The foil printed stuff isn't the greatest.
How did you fill the void on wall where bath was, to level it up to the rest of the surface?
We moved into a house with a walk in shower. We're going to fit a bath, but as we don't own the house, it'll have to be over the walk in shower, and removeable if we ever move out
I'm never a fan of having to reach through the spraying water to adjust the controls.
the wall looked like it was tracked for the bath to slide in was the bottom half and top half of the walls plum and i would have used sand and cement to lay the shower tray on put a solid bed down instead bucket of wall tile adhesive even tilers don't use it if you have to use powder adhesive mixed with water
Sign up now link for learn plumbing is incorrect in the description of your videos.
Hi James. How come you dont use the corner profiles?
How did you go about trimming the shower board around the window frame
This might be a longshot, but was that a reference to photonicinduction?
I live in an upstairs flat and I don't think I can dig in to my floor to make a trench for the pipe
I cut the film back and use my finger to guide the blade round the edge
Can you send a link to the website for the wall panelling please? Or give me the name of the company. Thx
You’ll have done this loads, as a DIYer I have one chance so I wouldn’t support the tray with adhesive. My concern is not that is would not support it, but that it would flex the tray up a bit. Guy who did the MILs rested theirs on floorboards and it pooled water until we put it on osb. Think I’d prefer to have something more rigid. Not criticising as I’m not experienced enough to but if it did pool water, you’re never getting that up and the manufacturer will void any warranty due to the installation method.
No worries mate! My preferred method is Hardibacker, but the floor was about 2 inches out over 1800mm! (I know whoever laid that floor needs a talking too!) shower being used now, and will return for the next phase in the next video!
I’m 100% using backer with mine when I do mine!!
love your videos, any chance you could do one the same, showing joist work needed?
Yes I can!
top job
Every video I watched showed the shower tray being fitted on a bed of cement.
Is that not the correct way?
Also the rubber seal shouldn't have sealant added around it according to instructions. It is a soft seal that compresses.
WOW! 😲 I’m surprised you get work and have a channel that shows and advises people how to do shoddy work. Did you work for the council by any chance.
I actually worked for your Mum. She loved my work. 😳
@@plumberparts WOW! 😮 how rude! I’ve seen other people who don’t agree with you and you give the similar reply very disrespectful it shows how uneducated, ignorant and shallow you really are!
On the back walll where there is a joint, between the two panels. I noticed that you didnt run a bead of silicon down the joint. I assume that this isnt going to be a problem with water ingress (I think if i was to use the panels i would run a bead of clear silicon between the joints for belts and braces)
Ah i pop my bead behind the joining panel so it doesn’t squeeze through the joint on the visible side. Camera didn’t pick it up! Good spot though mate.
Have you got a link to the tray and screen please
Looking nice 👍👍👍👍
Think u need a bigger boat……..level 😄
I would say circular saw is much easier for the panels, but make sure you change out your blade for a fine tooth
Terrible advice 😂
Is it OK to use a solvent weld fitting under the shower as opposed to a compression fit?
Yes fine mate.
Nice panels, where they from?
You didn't show how you trimmed the piece over lapping the window, easy enough to follow the window ledge top and bottom but not the vertical.
Curious, how do you choose the silicon colour for the wall panel corners? Do you choose or does customer?
Really depends. I did use anthracite on this one as a test but didn't like it and removed with XPRO Super solver.
helo all i have my nvq level 2 city and guilds in plumbing i have done some jobs but i feel experience can only be learned in field by a plumber who has had years off experience if there is someone in the north west or bury that needs or is looking for a apprentice i would like to learn more skills than i already have please contact me.
thanks craig
Hi what make of shower tray is it
holding tight............................ parp.
I wish you'd have shown cutting the panel into the window reveal.
19:17 Did you add the link for the support bars you used can’t find them or similar anywhere
when/how did you add the fixer foam under the tray, did I miss it?
Think my camera ran out of battery - this is what happens when Max isn't about!
@@plumberparts how did you do it - do you just stick the nozzle under the tray and squirt it in, and let it fill itself in between all the blobs of mortar?
didnt show you cutting board for window
Hiya, how much does a plumber roughly charge for this work.
That tray should really have gone in on 5:1 sand and cement - naughty boy!
I was also going to ask about that as I will be fitting a tray soon
I’m literally about to do this in my bathroom, so 1 turn the water off. Then…… undo the taps, wish me luck
I want do exactly opposite in my house 😅
Nice job, is there a new van tour now you got racking in there
Soon!
get the bath bright it out the front door how easy is that.
Do u not isolate the boiler?
Never get to that waste if it leaks, or needs replacing. Far better raising it, future proofed. Yes I know old people can't step up but install a grab handle, they will be fine. I install these on 3 x 2 frames which means I can just get to the waste, better than raising it on a 100mm riser kit. Anyway I'm waffling...