Hope you enjoy gang. I look forward to reading your comments about how I installed the shower tray in a way that means it will NEVER MOVE! 🚀 *_LEARN PLUMBING ONLINE IN MY STRUCTURED COURSE:_* www.learnplumbingonline.com 🛠 *_AMAZON TOOL STORE:_* www.amazon.co.uk/shop/plumberparts 🧲 *_XPRO SEALANT Code PLUMBERPARTS:_* sealantwholesale.com/ 🥾 *_10% Off my workboots + workwear Use Plumberparts10:_* www.bigboots.co.uk/discount/plumberparts10?ref=plumberparts10 👓 *_10% Off Safestyle Sunglasses Use PLUMBER10:_* safestyle.com.au/?ref=PLUMBER10
Hi I qualified as a level 2 plumber last year. What do you think is the best way to gain experience. I am still quite new to this and need to gain confidence. Can you help
@plumberparts great job but for anyone else doing this I would highly recommend a tank sealing kit for around the edges of the base shower unit. Tanking kit will mean that any water if it ever does go past the edge of the shower tray, it will not be able to go anywhere as it will be 100% sealed. I learned this the hard way!!
My dear old Dad...Did that 50 yrs ago, did a great job too and he had no plumbing experience, still works great today...Was a corner unit, he tiled all 3 walls too, even built a unit for the sink, no mod things way back then, no internet to look at and check, all done with hand tools 🙂
Love the video James. As lovely as a walk in shower at floor level is, it doesn’t allow for any maintenance if the floor is concrete. If it were wood it would be fine you could make a way there somehow. On concrete I’d have raised the tray to allow for access to the pipework as someone is gonna be stuffed when the trap needs replacing. Keep up the great work 👍🏻
And how high are you going to raise it to get to the trap to be able to remove and replace it, shouldn't really need to do that in any case it is long life plastic with a flap trap.
You should peel off edge protection first about 30/40 mm into tray top (not after) and use classi seal around side and back edges of tray in one length. Then panel down to the inside of the seal, Will stop the shower leaking when the silicone line gives up ✌🏼
@@kimidri yes a seal on the face looks terrible, I think you may have misunderstood, you don’t see it, it goes around the tray that would touch any walls, then the hydro panel laps over it and sits against the tray. It’s bright blue in colour. The stuffs amazing. That seal on the bottom won’t last that long and will blow the unprotected plaster and rot out. He didn’t prime the walls either (at least on camera) Or use a corner profiles. Surprised really because he’s normally pretty good. Doing it in your own place is one thing but showing people? 😵💫✌🏼
@j_ping yes I know what it is I've been in building trade 35 years last 17 fitting bathrooms . I prefer sealant. If its got past the sealant on front is nothing stop it traveling along or even up sometimes . I've seen it on rips outs. Each to there own
It's always interesting for me, seeing how different countries do their utilities. Plumbing in the USA is significantly different than how I've seen done in the UK and AU, and electrical different as well, beyond the obvious 120/240v difference. A shower in the US would have the hot and cold lines run directly to a valve behind the shower liner wall that the shower head is mounted on, blending them in a mechanical valve. Only some of the fanciest (expensive!) designs have gone to electronically controlled valves.
@@DMC888 Correct, what is shown here is to me unusual and the usual method is to have H&C supplies to a shower valve. For me the KISS principle should apply and only where there is a specific advantage should electronics be used anywhere because they are not 100% reliable. UK mains pressures are typically 3Bar min although I have seen over 15Bar on one job that occurred over night due to lack of demand, which blew the seals on the pressure vessels until a pressure limiter was added. The most reliable systems are the traditional gravity feed from a tank supply (fed from mains) that need a pump for a full pressure shower but these flow better than the mains only and can cope with multiple outlets, besides they supply the very best and glorious shower experience. We have two power showers at home, one 28ltrs/min and the other 35ltrs/min at 3Bar. The mains cannot cope with these flow rates so we have a 50gall actual capacity buffer CW tanks
@@clivewilliams3661 I think these electronic systems are creeping in because people want a unit with a built in pump. Adding remote control etc adds a bit of bling 😆. In my house I have gravity fed + one pump, feeding two showers via two mixer valves. Seems to work well.
@@DMC888 I don't think this system has a built in pump as the HW cylinder is at mains pressure as will the CW supply. All that is being controlled is the flow and the temperature without the classic knobs to dial. The top of the range Mira digital control only gives 15lrs/min maximum flow, which would just about comply with the incoming mains flow (heaven help you if you have two showers going at once as we do). At 15ltrs/min the overhead 250mm 'deluge' is hardly that, both our showers deliver twice that amount on a conventional tank supply at the same time. It seems with digital showers its more about style than performance. We have two pumps, one for each shower as a single pump would be very large and be running at a less efficient rate most of the time. The 35ltr/min shower has a Grohe multi effect outlet from flood through to needle jet. The needle jet can actually hurt if you are not used to it but it really helps with muscular pain. The shower is so powerful that it can overwhelm the 38mm tray outlet that was supplied as a package.
Can't believe you did a video now showing me how to do the thing I had to piece together myself last month! Thankfully I didn't make any mistakes I wasn't able to fix, but there were a couple of tips in here I could definitely have used. Oh well, I'll know for next time
Love watching these. When I moved into a house years ago, the water was off downstairs(confirmed) but the taps were live upstairs. Yep, I had two stopcocks!
Amazing video! - I don't mean to be cheeky, but.... Would you consider doing a video in the future that removes a walk-in shower basin and install a bath-tub with shower wall panels?
Hello mate, love these videos… what type of shower is that and what is that red box you’re connecting to the shower? I assumed the hot and cold’s just connected to the pressurised hot and cold main? Also what make is that silicone gun? .. I WANT ONE!! 😮
A shower tray of this size would typically have a 50mm connection, which will be essential if the flow rates into the shower are good. The waste from the shower should have a gradient of not less than 1:40 i.e. 3" in 10ft to ensure self cleansing of the pipework. The floor tiles don't continue under the shower tray and that will cause a tray where any incidental water that leaks under the shower tray will just sit and fester. It is better to fill this area with latex screed flush with the tiles, plus it will give a sound base for the tray to sit on, having tile adhesive dabs and spray foam is wishful thinking . I would never rely on pvc or laminate wall panelling to provide a waterproof enclosure because inevitably the corners have to be jointed and these will eventually break down allowing moisture behind the panel, where by the time it is spotted is a real problem to sort out. Be aware that pvc panelling moves around a great deal due to heat gain. The temperature in the house can vary by as much as 30degC, which causes big movements in pvc that the joints can't reliably cope with over time. Silicone or profile jointing is not a permanent solution and won't last the life of the panel. The best thing to do is to line the wall with a waterproof membrane such as Schluter Kerdi that will be dressed into the shower tray to make the whole thing waterproof before applying the finish of tiles or panelling. The shower screen should have a manifestation, moreso because it does not have a framed edge. Also, where is the mechanical ventilation? The opening window can't be relied upon to ventilate the room and remove the steam especially, since the shower cubicle has a dead end next to the shower head.
The size of the shower tray is irrelevant. All that matters is the flow rate of the shower head. The government guidance is that flow rates should be limited to 10L per minute, and a 40mm pipe and trap is capable of more than double that. Certainly on my (boosted) shower, I can only get to about 20L per minute if I remove the shower head. About 10 years ago, I did a wet room conversion for my aged parents and, being level entry, the fall in the shower tray on that was quite low. That used a 40mm drain (it had a 50mm option) and as that replaced a bath, had a similar area to the one in this video. It's got a 2bar Suart-Turner Moonsoon pump on it (virtually backing onto the shower area) and it doesn't come remotely close to overflowing. Even if I take the shower head off it copes, although the water does tend to spread beyond the tray. So, unless you are doing something rather extreme, 40mm ought to be fine unless it's a very long run at a fairly shallow gradient. However, I'd agree that shower tray ought to be on a solid base.
@@TheEulerID The reason that I mentioned the shover tray size is not because of the flow rate of the tray per se but the size is often indicative of the performance that the client wants i.e. big trays tend to go with high performance showers. You may find that the quality trays are all sized for 50mm outlets in any case. Also, the popularity of low entry and level entry showers often means that shower waste gradients can be shallower than the 1:40 recommended and thus require a larger diameter. I have designed many shower installations and where possible I spec a 50mm outlet as it overcomes many problems. I can't remember the last time I spec;d a shower with only a 10ltr/min flow rate. Although its in the Regs, Building Control don't bother with it along with the smaller bath dimension requirements, they know that home owners regularly change their bathrooms (and kitchens) so its uncontrollable. At home we have two showers, one a level entry with a slot drain and a 28ltrs/min 3Bar pumped supply and the other with a stone resin tray with a cubicle and a 35ltrs/min 3Bar pumped supply. The level entry slot drain was not supplied as I spec'd it with a 50mm outlet, the builder acquiring a MacAlpine unit from the local plumbers merchant. Having discussed the spec with the tech department at MacAlpine, the decision was to retain the one supplied, even with it 38mm outlet and connect a 50mm pipe to discharge into the drain. It works well so long as the outlet is kept clear of hair etc. but does not have any spare capacity. If I had insisted on the original drain it would have stopped the job for 4 weeks.
Mate, take a break. Shakespeare would really envy you. 30 years ago any of the materials you mentioned didn't exist and yet nothing in my bathroom went wrong.
@@AdrianWT-j9n You are indeed lucky. Over the last 50+years in construction I have seen a great many bathroom failures often caused by attempting to incorporate new materials without really understanding them. We now have managed to consolidate all our knowledge of these new material to be able to put together a very good reliabel spec that doesn't rely on luck.
Dear james, you ve been on you toube for 8 years and you haven't changed, gorgeous as usual ! can you share your beauty tricks!!! face cream brands and diet regimens. Many thanks!
Did the manufacturers say to put silicone around the waste seal, and to the shower profile? Some insist of a dry fit. As you ran silicone around the bottom tray first, did the profile sit flat to the tray? A silver grey, or grey, would have looked better than white silicone, in my opinion. You mentioned in a comment about anthracite, but that is too dark for this grey colour. Also it might be worth mentioning that different trays and manufacturers tend to state the material to bed down a tray. Dot and dab would not warrant most guarantees manufacturers offer on trays.
While being a real bore and ignoring my family and friends, my preferred method for fixing shower trays is to build up the level with mortar/tile adhesive, let it go off and then use silicone and/or crazy-foam. I heard of someone who stuck down a tray with tile adhesive, only for it to crack with a loud bang in the middle of the night (too sticky and not enough give). I reckon the plots you put down are high enough to mitigate this, though.
Thoroughly enjoyed your video, we were let down by a big uk national company and would love to be fit enough to do the job myself but...anyway thanks again for your video.
@@plumberpartsI first heard ‘Battle of Epping Forest’ when I was on scout camp. I’d never heard anything like it. My fave Genesis album. “You’re telling me!”
I always seal the shower tray to the wall BEFORE installing any wall board / tile . Then i leave a 3mm strip of acrylic plastic on the top about 30mm wide with a hole every 30cm to provide a hard stop/ edge protector / silicone bead gap . It will slide out easily after the board/tile is installed with a hook thingy in the wee holes . Since 1996 doing it this way i have had zero leaks and no customer complaints . And now the 25year G-Tee white is up on the "ice white" unibond silicone i had reason to inspect a job i did 26 years ago , the silicone and the tray to wall is still perfect , needless to say the owners are houseproud and clean regularly in the bathroom . When a customer says i need it "easy to clean" , invariably this means they are filthy clarts who only clean their bathrooms when guests are due or the landlord is coming for inspection.
Amazing job James, I'm an upcoming plumber and trying to get more knowledge and correct info. I have a question: Between the panels we don't need to use any joiners? thank you
Hi James. Your channel and videos are fantastic, and so helpful. This is my go to site for any help with ‘basic’ plumbing. James - I am wanting to rip out our 20-year old bathroom as it is showing wear and tear, and replace with new step by step using your videos. What I’d like to please kindly ask (and I know some of this may be common sense), but do you have a detailed list of exactly what order to do things in please? Fortunately we have a separate en-suite to use in the meantime, as it won’t be a quick job for me, but I really want to try it myself and learn as I go. I just need to really know the best order to take everything out, and then to put everything back in again. If you can please help that would be amazing. I will then use your videos for each stage. Thank you very much for giving me the confidence to give it a go!! Jim
Is there any reason why you didn't TANK the walls first? Or are the aqua panels 100% waterproof and are you confident there will be no damp getting behind the panels?
Nice I like those panels (don't see them here in the US). But I'm not sure about the waterproofing/ sealing at the bottom. Is one bead of caulk going to be enough over time? doesn't look like that pan has any backing flange. But I'll still give a thumbs up for the Genesis / Gabriel /Dancing with the Moonlit Knight
This is a great practical idea, however, I’m not entirely sure this is a project for some DIY enthusiasts as I can see several aspects of the work that could be challenging.
Cant wait to see the rest of the series. I noticed no access left for the waste under the tray, how would you access if need. when ive done trays for customers who wanted a walk in shower ive always advised on having a 100mm buffer so you can get your hand incase any leaks in the future. thank.
@@jonoooo125 Hmm might be a bit much on those boards. However, give it a try on an offcut and see. Bosch make a mini saw that's really good for them though. The 12v one. It's also VERY ahndy for other stuff: amzn.to/3YIzxw6
Nice one, you held tight 🙂 Someone asked about the gunning up of the floor. Was going to say pretty common, just want the minimum taken out as it's just screed that's between 50-75mm thick, so best done by hand/SDS.
Things have changed in the uk , we used to make a platform so we could access the drain, etc, to see if there were any leaks . How do you test the drain to see if its tightened properly? Thank you 👍
Im not removing a bath but doing a similar job soon, what tray would you say is a decent buy? Ideally id like to put it on a riser kit for future plumbing access and drainage height issues.
I recommend having a door on the shower. Walk in format doesn’t work in a U.K. climate, the room fills with steam and condensation and you’ll feel colder in the shower.
Hi James great video. Looking for some advice please. We had our bath removed and a shower tray fitted. First time using it it the water wasn’t draining and it overflow onto the floor. The plumber returned and removed rubber seal from the trap and it worked fine. Unfortunately we started to get smell from the drains. The plumber adapted the rubber part and put it back. He ran it for 30 mins and it drains fine. As soon as anyone stands in the tray and has a shower within a few minutes the water level rises and you need to turn it off. No idea what to do.
Another brilliant video, and I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us, I have a quick question here for you, Have you got a link where one can buy that shower tray trap from and what is this actual brand called? heard you call it a fanny trap.
What are the pros and cons between plastic hollow core wall panels vs ply panels with plastic laminate on top? Can’t decide what to use in my bathroom!! Cheers
Ultimately the plastic never break down and is waterproof. The ply backed wetboard is obviously wood. It's obviously far stronger but if your careful the plastic is good stuff as long as you don't buy the flimsy cheap stuff.
@@Tom_Plumb_PHS yeah I've had some rubbish to fit over the years. The best stuff it the one that is wrapped. That stuff is brilliant and very durable. The foil printed stuff isn't the greatest.
They way i always install stone shower trays is always with flexible S1 tile adhesive, but a good quality one that has a good flex so if the tray moves in the future which it will it it will cause no cracks
The suppliers always show using there 'internal' corner strips. Can I ask, why do you not use them ? Personally I think they are a faff and pain, especially when doing a U shaped shower - so a left right and rear panel. I would appreciate your comment as I've just stripped a bathroom and I'm ordering products tomorrow... Thanks Paul.
I’m about to do this job at home, I have the same tray set up, waste in same place etc, but my shower will be at the other end of the tray, but the tray will be same way round as yours, would the shower still drain away as good! As the waste will be at opposite end of the tray Cheers
Great video on how to install the shower. I couldn't do it I've no idea. I need to replace my bath for a shower train like that. American noarlunga step into the bath to use in the shower. I have a window just like that in the way thanks anyway
You’ll have done this loads, as a DIYer I have one chance so I wouldn’t support the tray with adhesive. My concern is not that is would not support it, but that it would flex the tray up a bit. Guy who did the MILs rested theirs on floorboards and it pooled water until we put it on osb. Think I’d prefer to have something more rigid. Not criticising as I’m not experienced enough to but if it did pool water, you’re never getting that up and the manufacturer will void any warranty due to the installation method.
No worries mate! My preferred method is Hardibacker, but the floor was about 2 inches out over 1800mm! (I know whoever laid that floor needs a talking too!) shower being used now, and will return for the next phase in the next video!
Theres always going to be the debate about sealing the profile to the wall. I personally never do. Only sealant i use is in plugs and a bit behind the screws. Nearly every manufacturer say don't seal profile to the wall as it holds in water.
Why not use a rubber edging seal around the shower tray before fitting the tiles or sheets ? Personally light grey would have looked better, personal preference.
You sounded so like bernard fordet his second name right said fred whillle you leveled the tray lol well done as well with the suckers to lay down the tray first class
the wall looked like it was tracked for the bath to slide in was the bottom half and top half of the walls plum and i would have used sand and cement to lay the shower tray on put a solid bed down instead bucket of wall tile adhesive even tilers don't use it if you have to use powder adhesive mixed with water
Hi, I have a aqualisa quartz digital shower set up for a combi - It is randomly tripping out the ring main (sometimes it goes a few days with out tripping). Is it serviceable or just time for a new one?
On the back walll where there is a joint, between the two panels. I noticed that you didnt run a bead of silicon down the joint. I assume that this isnt going to be a problem with water ingress (I think if i was to use the panels i would run a bead of clear silicon between the joints for belts and braces)
Ah i pop my bead behind the joining panel so it doesn’t squeeze through the joint on the visible side. Camera didn’t pick it up! Good spot though mate.
@@plumberpartswhilst on hols in the Yorkshire Dales atm noticed that the house we usually stay in have had a bit of plumbing since last year they got some press fits on some joints etc on the radiators - by the way love the voices you put on your videos- always brings a smile to my face!!!👍
Never get to that waste if it leaks, or needs replacing. Far better raising it, future proofed. Yes I know old people can't step up but install a grab handle, they will be fine. I install these on 3 x 2 frames which means I can just get to the waste, better than raising it on a 100mm riser kit. Anyway I'm waffling...
I use to carry a car trolly jack to life the bath up, saves pulling your back out. Just make sure that if the bathroom floor is chipboard, you use a pad under the jack or your jack might end up in the kitchen😂😂😂
A quick explanation of why that trap bit is called a fanny! Bit of a long one and a bit rum based but you'll see why at the end the name was given to buckets and containers. There are a number of stories regarding the origin of the name ‘Rum Fanny’ in Royal Navy slang. The most authentic is substantiated by records of the brutal murder of an eight year old girl, whose name was Fanny Adams. Fanny, born in April 1859, was murdered by lawyers clerk Fredrick Baker on 24 August, 1867. Her dismembered body was found in a hop field north of her home in Alton, Hampshire. Baker was found guilty and hanged outside Winchester jail on Christmas Eve. He was the last person to be executed at Winchester. Fanny Adams was buried at Alton cemetery and a stone was erected over her grave. The grave can still be seen today. During the mid 1860s, the process of canning food had become more efficient, the manufacture of cans had been mechanised and the cooking time reduced drastically. This resulted in a cheaper product and the Admiralty opened a canning factory in the Deptford Victualling Yard. Tinned mutton became part of the diet of the Royal Navy, much to the displeasure of the sailors. This displeasure led to a rumour that parts of the dismembered body of Fanny Adams had been traced to the Deptford Victualing Yard and tins contained her butchered remains. ‘Fanny Adams’ became the Royal Naval slang for tinned meat and stew. The term “Sweet Fanny Adams” meaning ‘Nothing’ was also born and was a description of the sailor’s opinion of the tinned meats. However, a use was found for the large empty meat tins. Up until that time, when sailors and Royal Marines lived, ate and slept in their mess decks (a system that was still in use, at least until the late 1950s,) wooden buckets were used to collect food from the galley, water for washing crockery etc. and to collect the Rum Ration. The empty meat tins were modified and gradually replaced the wooden buckets. These new buckets were given the slang name ‘Fanny’s’. Needless to say, the Rum Fanny was treated with great respect and became the responsibility of the mess rum bosun
Every video I watched showed the shower tray being fitted on a bed of cement. Is that not the correct way? Also the rubber seal shouldn't have sealant added around it according to instructions. It is a soft seal that compresses.
We moved into a house with a walk in shower. We're going to fit a bath, but as we don't own the house, it'll have to be over the walk in shower, and removeable if we ever move out
@@plumberparts how did you do it - do you just stick the nozzle under the tray and squirt it in, and let it fill itself in between all the blobs of mortar?
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Hope you enjoy gang. I look forward to reading your comments about how I installed the shower tray in a way that means it will NEVER MOVE!
🚀 *_LEARN PLUMBING ONLINE IN MY STRUCTURED COURSE:_* www.learnplumbingonline.com
🛠 *_AMAZON TOOL STORE:_* www.amazon.co.uk/shop/plumberparts
🧲 *_XPRO SEALANT Code PLUMBERPARTS:_* sealantwholesale.com/
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Hi I qualified as a level 2 plumber last year. What do you think is the best way to gain experience. I am still quite new to this and need to gain confidence. Can you help
if he spoke properly rather then a kid he would get more followers
@plumberparts great job but for anyone else doing this I would highly recommend a tank sealing kit for around the edges of the base shower unit. Tanking kit will mean that any water if it ever does go past the edge of the shower tray, it will not be able to go anywhere as it will be 100% sealed. I learned this the hard way!!
My dear old Dad...Did that 50 yrs ago, did a great job too and he had no plumbing experience, still works great today...Was a corner unit, he tiled all 3 walls too, even built a unit for the sink, no mod things way back then, no internet to look at and check, all done with hand tools 🙂
That’s how you know it going yo last as soon as I read 50 years ago old is gold
@@carfanatic7271kiss ass
When cutting muptiple inline pipes its best to stagger your cuts so its easier to use joinrs like my friend is showing. Good work!
Glad to see it done on a screeded floor rather than plywood
Love the video James. As lovely as a walk in shower at floor level is, it doesn’t allow for any maintenance if the floor is concrete. If it were wood it would be fine you could make a way there somehow. On concrete I’d have raised the tray to allow for access to the pipework as someone is gonna be stuffed when the trap needs replacing. Keep up the great work 👍🏻
And how high are you going to raise it to get to the trap to be able to remove and replace it, shouldn't really need to do that in any case it is long life plastic with a flap trap.
Bit of a tit this guy
Raise the tray. lol age are you 95
Don't raise it then couldn't give a toss don't complain when it leaks which it will knob end
@@johnjtplastering6991 It's not yours, so why are you so concerned.
You should peel off edge protection first about 30/40 mm into tray top (not after) and use classi seal around side and back edges of tray in one length. Then panel down to the inside of the seal, Will stop the shower leaking when the silicone line gives up ✌🏼
except classi seal always looks diy to me
@@kimidri yes a seal on the face looks terrible, I think you may have misunderstood, you don’t see it, it goes around the tray that would touch any walls, then the hydro panel laps over it and sits against the tray. It’s bright blue in colour. The stuffs amazing. That seal on the bottom won’t last that long and will blow the unprotected plaster and rot out. He didn’t prime the walls either (at least on camera) Or use a corner profiles. Surprised really because he’s normally pretty good. Doing it in your own place is one thing but showing people? 😵💫✌🏼
Good idea
@j_ping yes I know what it is I've been in building trade 35 years last 17 fitting bathrooms .
I prefer sealant.
If its got past the sealant on front is nothing stop it traveling along or even up sometimes .
I've seen it on rips outs.
Each to there own
Watched another plumber on youtube tank the whole area out with the blue stuff. A bit overkill possibly.
It's always interesting for me, seeing how different countries do their utilities.
Plumbing in the USA is significantly different than how I've seen done in the UK and AU, and electrical different as well, beyond the obvious 120/240v difference.
A shower in the US would have the hot and cold lines run directly to a valve behind the shower liner wall that the shower head is mounted on, blending them in a mechanical valve. Only some of the fanciest (expensive!) designs have gone to electronically controlled valves.
We have both electronic and mechanical mixers. We also use a lot of shower pumps as the water pressure is not great in most houses.
@@DMC888 Correct, what is shown here is to me unusual and the usual method is to have H&C supplies to a shower valve. For me the KISS principle should apply and only where there is a specific advantage should electronics be used anywhere because they are not 100% reliable. UK mains pressures are typically 3Bar min although I have seen over 15Bar on one job that occurred over night due to lack of demand, which blew the seals on the pressure vessels until a pressure limiter was added. The most reliable systems are the traditional gravity feed from a tank supply (fed from mains) that need a pump for a full pressure shower but these flow better than the mains only and can cope with multiple outlets, besides they supply the very best and glorious shower experience. We have two power showers at home, one 28ltrs/min and the other 35ltrs/min at 3Bar. The mains cannot cope with these flow rates so we have a 50gall actual capacity buffer CW tanks
@@clivewilliams3661 I think these electronic systems are creeping in because people want a unit with a built in pump. Adding remote control etc adds a bit of bling 😆.
In my house I have gravity fed + one pump, feeding two showers via two mixer valves. Seems to work well.
@@DMC888 I don't think this system has a built in pump as the HW cylinder is at mains pressure as will the CW supply. All that is being controlled is the flow and the temperature without the classic knobs to dial. The top of the range Mira digital control only gives 15lrs/min maximum flow, which would just about comply with the incoming mains flow (heaven help you if you have two showers going at once as we do). At 15ltrs/min the overhead 250mm 'deluge' is hardly that, both our showers deliver twice that amount on a conventional tank supply at the same time. It seems with digital showers its more about style than performance.
We have two pumps, one for each shower as a single pump would be very large and be running at a less efficient rate most of the time. The 35ltr/min shower has a Grohe multi effect outlet from flood through to needle jet. The needle jet can actually hurt if you are not used to it but it really helps with muscular pain. The shower is so powerful that it can overwhelm the 38mm tray outlet that was supplied as a package.
This is a basic shower install his done
Can't believe you did a video now showing me how to do the thing I had to piece together myself last month! Thankfully I didn't make any mistakes I wasn't able to fix, but there were a couple of tips in here I could definitely have used. Oh well, I'll know for next time
Love watching these. When I moved into a house years ago, the water was off downstairs(confirmed) but the taps were live upstairs. Yep, I had two stopcocks!
And one meter?! 😂😂
It's better with the volume off .
Amazing video! - I don't mean to be cheeky, but.... Would you consider doing a video in the future that removes a walk-in shower basin and install a bath-tub with shower wall panels?
Hello mate, love these videos… what type of shower is that and what is that red box you’re connecting to the shower? I assumed the hot and cold’s just connected to the pressurised hot and cold main?
Also what make is that silicone gun? .. I WANT ONE!! 😮
A shower tray of this size would typically have a 50mm connection, which will be essential if the flow rates into the shower are good. The waste from the shower should have a gradient of not less than 1:40 i.e. 3" in 10ft to ensure self cleansing of the pipework. The floor tiles don't continue under the shower tray and that will cause a tray where any incidental water that leaks under the shower tray will just sit and fester. It is better to fill this area with latex screed flush with the tiles, plus it will give a sound base for the tray to sit on, having tile adhesive dabs and spray foam is wishful thinking . I would never rely on pvc or laminate wall panelling to provide a waterproof enclosure because inevitably the corners have to be jointed and these will eventually break down allowing moisture behind the panel, where by the time it is spotted is a real problem to sort out. Be aware that pvc panelling moves around a great deal due to heat gain. The temperature in the house can vary by as much as 30degC, which causes big movements in pvc that the joints can't reliably cope with over time. Silicone or profile jointing is not a permanent solution and won't last the life of the panel. The best thing to do is to line the wall with a waterproof membrane such as Schluter Kerdi that will be dressed into the shower tray to make the whole thing waterproof before applying the finish of tiles or panelling. The shower screen should have a manifestation, moreso because it does not have a framed edge.
Also, where is the mechanical ventilation? The opening window can't be relied upon to ventilate the room and remove the steam especially, since the shower cubicle has a dead end next to the shower head.
The size of the shower tray is irrelevant. All that matters is the flow rate of the shower head. The government guidance is that flow rates should be limited to 10L per minute, and a 40mm pipe and trap is capable of more than double that. Certainly on my (boosted) shower, I can only get to about 20L per minute if I remove the shower head.
About 10 years ago, I did a wet room conversion for my aged parents and, being level entry, the fall in the shower tray on that was quite low. That used a 40mm drain (it had a 50mm option) and as that replaced a bath, had a similar area to the one in this video. It's got a 2bar Suart-Turner Moonsoon pump on it (virtually backing onto the shower area) and it doesn't come remotely close to overflowing. Even if I take the shower head off it copes, although the water does tend to spread beyond the tray.
So, unless you are doing something rather extreme, 40mm ought to be fine unless it's a very long run at a fairly shallow gradient.
However, I'd agree that shower tray ought to be on a solid base.
@@TheEulerID The reason that I mentioned the shover tray size is not because of the flow rate of the tray per se but the size is often indicative of the performance that the client wants i.e. big trays tend to go with high performance showers. You may find that the quality trays are all sized for 50mm outlets in any case. Also, the popularity of low entry and level entry showers often means that shower waste gradients can be shallower than the 1:40 recommended and thus require a larger diameter.
I have designed many shower installations and where possible I spec a 50mm outlet as it overcomes many problems. I can't remember the last time I spec;d a shower with only a 10ltr/min flow rate. Although its in the Regs, Building Control don't bother with it along with the smaller bath dimension requirements, they know that home owners regularly change their bathrooms (and kitchens) so its uncontrollable.
At home we have two showers, one a level entry with a slot drain and a 28ltrs/min 3Bar pumped supply and the other with a stone resin tray with a cubicle and a 35ltrs/min 3Bar pumped supply. The level entry slot drain was not supplied as I spec'd it with a 50mm outlet, the builder acquiring a MacAlpine unit from the local plumbers merchant. Having discussed the spec with the tech department at MacAlpine, the decision was to retain the one supplied, even with it 38mm outlet and connect a 50mm pipe to discharge into the drain. It works well so long as the outlet is kept clear of hair etc. but does not have any spare capacity. If I had insisted on the original drain it would have stopped the job for 4 weeks.
Mate, take a break. Shakespeare would really envy you. 30 years ago any of the materials you mentioned didn't exist and yet nothing in my bathroom went wrong.
@@AdrianWT-j9n You are indeed lucky. Over the last 50+years in construction I have seen a great many bathroom failures often caused by attempting to incorporate new materials without really understanding them. We now have managed to consolidate all our knowledge of these new material to be able to put together a very good reliabel spec that doesn't rely on luck.
Dear james, you ve been on you toube for 8 years and you haven't changed, gorgeous as usual ! can you share your beauty tricks!!! face cream brands and diet regimens. Many thanks!
What shower valve was that you used just the name and type please
Did the manufacturers say to put silicone around the waste seal, and to the shower profile?
Some insist of a dry fit.
As you ran silicone around the bottom tray first, did the profile sit flat to the tray?
A silver grey, or grey, would have looked better than white silicone, in my opinion. You mentioned in a comment about anthracite, but that is too dark for this grey colour.
Also it might be worth mentioning that different trays and manufacturers tend to state the material to bed down a tray. Dot and dab would not warrant most guarantees manufacturers offer on trays.
While being a real bore and ignoring my family and friends, my preferred method for fixing shower trays is to build up the level with mortar/tile adhesive, let it go off and then use silicone and/or crazy-foam. I heard of someone who stuck down a tray with tile adhesive, only for it to crack with a loud bang in the middle of the night (too sticky and not enough give). I reckon the plots you put down are high enough to mitigate this, though.
Been waiting for this one for ages thanks
What type of shower was you using? Was it electric or mains fed? Only reason i ask because i saw what looked like wire .
Thanks for the video, do you have a link to the shower panels or what they are, might be easier than tiling, thanks
Thoroughly enjoyed your video, we were let down by a big uk national company and would love to be fit enough to do the job myself but...anyway thanks again for your video.
Where do you tend to get your wall shower panels from or any brands that you recommend for when i get around to doing this?
What type of shower is it m8 great video
Excellent tutorial, sir! Could you kindly let me know where I can purchase the shower tray and the low-profile waste trap? Thank you!
Took me three weeks to do the same, only help I needed was getting the main panel into position, seeing I'm not a plumber I didn't do a bad job.
Very pleased to hear a Genesis rendition, and what a fabulous album 'Selling England...' really is. Prog Rock at it's best👌
@1000Zebedee Brill trick of the tail was my first album 👌 😆
Nah Selling England is the bee’s knees!
@@plumberparts 😆 lol
@@plumberpartsI first heard ‘Battle of Epping Forest’ when I was on scout camp. I’d never heard anything like it. My fave Genesis album. “You’re telling me!”
I always seal the shower tray to the wall BEFORE installing any wall board / tile .
Then i leave a 3mm strip of acrylic plastic on the top about 30mm wide with a hole every 30cm to provide a hard stop/ edge protector / silicone bead gap .
It will slide out easily after the board/tile is installed with a hook thingy in the wee holes .
Since 1996 doing it this way i have had zero leaks and no customer complaints .
And now the 25year G-Tee white is up on the "ice white" unibond silicone i had reason to inspect a job i did 26 years ago , the silicone and the tray to wall is still perfect , needless to say the owners are houseproud and clean regularly in the bathroom .
When a customer says i need it "easy to clean" , invariably this means they are filthy clarts who only clean their bathrooms when guests are due or the landlord is coming for inspection.
Glad I saw this. We're in the middle of replacing bath with shower. What 'dob' did you use to raise the height of the shower?
He had a man hoddit while he doddit
What was that shower you used please? Looks like something I am after, where the water is already temperature controlled from a tankless heater
Amazing job James, I'm an upcoming plumber and trying to get more knowledge and correct info. I have a question: Between the panels we don't need to use any joiners? thank you
Hi James. Your channel and videos are fantastic, and so helpful. This is my go to site for any help with ‘basic’ plumbing. James - I am wanting to rip out our 20-year old bathroom as it is showing wear and tear, and replace with new step by step using your videos. What I’d like to please kindly ask (and I know some of this may be common sense), but do you have a detailed list of exactly what order to do things in please? Fortunately we have a separate en-suite to use in the meantime, as it won’t be a quick job for me, but I really want to try it myself and learn as I go. I just need to really know the best order to take everything out, and then to put everything back in again. If you can please help that would be amazing. I will then use your videos for each stage. Thank you very much for giving me the confidence to give it a go!! Jim
Brilliant, I was just about to look for a youtube video on this and this appeared! I'll be doing this soon..
Don’t copy him please
@@leerussell8939 why not?
Is there any reason why you didn't TANK the walls first? Or are the aqua panels 100% waterproof and are you confident there will be no damp getting behind the panels?
I was wondering why there seemed to be no waterproofing done. Here in Australia, we are very strict on waterproofing.
If you siliconed the edge of the tray and let it dry, how would the silicone from the corner vertical stick to it to form a tight seal ?
Nice I like those panels (don't see them here in the US). But I'm not sure about the waterproofing/ sealing at the bottom. Is one bead of caulk going to be enough over time? doesn't look like that pan has any backing flange. But I'll still give a thumbs up for the Genesis / Gabriel /Dancing with the Moonlit Knight
I wish I had a bathroom to renovate now
Looks like great fun 👍
U can have mine😅
This is a great practical idea, however, I’m not entirely sure this is a project for some DIY enthusiasts as I can see several aspects of the work that could be challenging.
Use marbles or ball bearings to confirm the drain slope and direction
Cant wait to see the rest of the series. I noticed no access left for the waste under the tray, how would you access if need. when ive done trays for customers who wanted a walk in shower ive always advised on having a 100mm buffer so you can get your hand incase any leaks in the future. thank.
If its done properly it will never leak
@@andy0175 surely the rubber washer can perish over time no ?
@@henrywalker8938 Be ready for a new bathroom before the seals give up.
Thanks, James. Great video 🙂👍🏴
You didnt show how you cut the panel around the window area after you had attached it...please advise
Same method as the cut out on the bottom with the multi cutter - and a steady hand!
@@plumberpartswould a router and flush trim bit work to match the window cut out? Or would it chew up the boards? Cheers
@@jonoooo125 Hmm might be a bit much on those boards. However, give it a try on an offcut and see. Bosch make a mini saw that's really good for them though. The 12v one. It's also VERY ahndy for other stuff: amzn.to/3YIzxw6
I personally cut them to shape then draw around the reveal then take the board out and cut it from the other side. Works perfect 👌
Nice job, didn't like the white silicone around the panels tho
Nice one, you held tight 🙂
Someone asked about the gunning up of the floor. Was going to say pretty common, just want the minimum taken out as it's just screed that's between 50-75mm thick, so best done by hand/SDS.
Things have changed in the uk , we used to make a platform so we could access the drain, etc, to see if there were any leaks . How do you test the drain to see if its tightened properly? Thank you 👍
Im not removing a bath but doing a similar job soon, what tray would you say is a decent buy?
Ideally id like to put it on a riser kit for future plumbing access and drainage height issues.
Answering my own question but the Mira range looks half decent to me and they do an easy plumb riser kit too.
What is the width of the shower base? Learning loads. 😊
Great video... Best content out there at the moment!
I recommend having a door on the shower. Walk in format doesn’t work in a U.K. climate, the room fills with steam and condensation and you’ll feel colder in the shower.
Hi James great video. Looking for some advice please. We had our bath removed and a shower tray fitted. First time using it it the water wasn’t draining and it overflow onto the floor. The plumber returned and removed rubber seal from the trap and it worked fine. Unfortunately we started to get smell from the drains. The plumber adapted the rubber part and put it back. He ran it for 30 mins and it drains fine. As soon as anyone stands in the tray and has a shower within a few minutes the water level rises and you need to turn it off. No idea what to do.
Do you add waterproofing, or is it not necessary.
Can you post a link for those boards
Doing this job myself in the coming weeks thanks for the video
Just a tip when cutting pipes lay an old cloth under where you cut .
Another brilliant video, and I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us, I have a quick question here for you, Have you got a link where one can buy that shower tray trap from and what is this actual brand called? heard you call it a fanny trap.
What are the pros and cons between plastic hollow core wall panels vs ply panels with plastic laminate on top? Can’t decide what to use in my bathroom!! Cheers
Ultimately the plastic never break down and is waterproof.
The ply backed wetboard is obviously wood. It's obviously far stronger but if your careful the plastic is good stuff as long as you don't buy the flimsy cheap stuff.
@@chrissybfcful Many thanks for comments!
@@chrissybfcfulyh I had some for my own bath that wasnt very good. The decorative laminate on the plastic chipped off the bottom after a while.
@@Tom_Plumb_PHS yeah I've had some rubbish to fit over the years. The best stuff it the one that is wrapped. That stuff is brilliant and very durable. The foil printed stuff isn't the greatest.
They way i always install stone shower trays is always with flexible S1 tile adhesive, but a good quality one that has a good flex so if the tray moves in the future which it will it it will cause no cracks
Great video, question on waterproofing. What’s stopping leaks if the silicon on the shower tray fails which it will after a few years?
Nothing!
quality job squire, nice work
The suppliers always show using there 'internal' corner strips. Can I ask, why do you not use them ? Personally I think they are a faff and pain, especially when doing a U shaped shower - so a left right and rear panel. I would appreciate your comment as I've just stripped a bathroom and I'm ordering products tomorrow... Thanks Paul.
Nice work but I would have used grey sealant on a grey shower panel.
Hi! Where do you buy them wall panels?
Did you forget about cutting the window reveal, one moment it was a full sheet and the next clip it was cut?
I thought same/commented too. For me that was the bit I was interested in 😂
I’m about to do this job at home, I have the same tray set up, waste in same place etc, but my shower will be at the other end of the tray, but the tray will be same way round as yours, would the shower still drain away as good! As the waste will be at opposite end of the tray
Cheers
Great video on how to install the shower. I couldn't do it I've no idea. I need to replace my bath for a shower train like that. American noarlunga step into the bath to use in the shower. I have a window just like that in the way thanks anyway
I would also use upstand tape on the shower tray.
You’ll have done this loads, as a DIYer I have one chance so I wouldn’t support the tray with adhesive. My concern is not that is would not support it, but that it would flex the tray up a bit. Guy who did the MILs rested theirs on floorboards and it pooled water until we put it on osb. Think I’d prefer to have something more rigid. Not criticising as I’m not experienced enough to but if it did pool water, you’re never getting that up and the manufacturer will void any warranty due to the installation method.
No worries mate! My preferred method is Hardibacker, but the floor was about 2 inches out over 1800mm! (I know whoever laid that floor needs a talking too!) shower being used now, and will return for the next phase in the next video!
I’m 100% using backer with mine when I do mine!!
How the floor and walls has been secured against moisture and leaks ? Didn't noticed anything in this video.
Theres always going to be the debate about sealing the profile to the wall. I personally never do. Only sealant i use is in plugs and a bit behind the screws. Nearly every manufacturer say don't seal profile to the wall as it holds in water.
Fantastic job, mate! Just found your channel. Liked and Sub'd. Cheers from South Africa.
Hi James. How come you dont use the corner profiles?
Why not use a rubber edging seal around the shower tray before fitting the tiles or sheets ? Personally light grey would have looked better, personal preference.
Dancing With The Moonlit Knight,nice one classic Genesis.
Battle Of Epping Forest is my FAVE.
"little bit of water" bit of an understatement.
You sounded so like bernard fordet his second name right said fred whillle you leveled the tray lol well done as well with the suckers to lay down the tray first class
the wall looked like it was tracked for the bath to slide in was the bottom half and top half of the walls plum and i would have used sand and cement to lay the shower tray on put a solid bed down instead bucket of wall tile adhesive even tilers don't use it if you have to use powder adhesive mixed with water
Hi, I have a aqualisa quartz digital shower set up for a combi - It is randomly tripping out the ring main (sometimes it goes a few days with out tripping). Is it serviceable or just time for a new one?
Sign up now link for learn plumbing is incorrect in the description of your videos.
This might be a longshot, but was that a reference to photonicinduction?
Nice work there!
What shower is that please? Does anyone know?
I am amazed someone hasn’t invented something to replace silicone edge seals😊
love your videos, any chance you could do one the same, showing joist work needed?
Yes I can!
Have you got a link to the tray and screen please
Can you send a link to the website for the wall panelling please? Or give me the name of the company. Thx
How did you go about trimming the shower board around the window frame
Lovely video 😊 very informative
On the back walll where there is a joint, between the two panels. I noticed that you didnt run a bead of silicon down the joint. I assume that this isnt going to be a problem with water ingress (I think if i was to use the panels i would run a bead of clear silicon between the joints for belts and braces)
Ah i pop my bead behind the joining panel so it doesn’t squeeze through the joint on the visible side. Camera didn’t pick it up! Good spot though mate.
Nice panels, where they from?
Is it OK to use a solvent weld fitting under the shower as opposed to a compression fit?
Yes fine mate.
Lovely video again Jim couldn’t help noticing you singing that Genesis song there, from selling England by the pound, fantastic ❤ keep it up boy!
Their best album!
@@plumberparts yeah, absolutely fantastic I love all their stuff 👍
@@plumberpartswhilst on hols in the Yorkshire Dales atm noticed that the house we usually stay in have had a bit of plumbing since last year they got some press fits on some joints etc on the radiators - by the way love the voices you put on your videos- always brings a smile to my face!!!👍
Never get to that waste if it leaks, or needs replacing. Far better raising it, future proofed. Yes I know old people can't step up but install a grab handle, they will be fine. I install these on 3 x 2 frames which means I can just get to the waste, better than raising it on a 100mm riser kit. Anyway I'm waffling...
Lovely job.Hold tight.
19:17 Did you add the link for the support bars you used can’t find them or similar anywhere
I use to carry a car trolly jack to life the bath up, saves pulling your back out. Just make sure that if the bathroom floor is chipboard, you use a pad under the jack or your jack might end up in the kitchen😂😂😂
What's the best pipe dope for sealing radiator or is ptfe tape best
Use XPRO Gripaloc. Decent stuff!
A quick explanation of why that trap bit is called a fanny! Bit of a long one and a bit rum based but you'll see why at the end the name was given to buckets and containers.
There are a number of stories regarding the origin of the name ‘Rum Fanny’ in Royal Navy slang. The most authentic is substantiated by records of the brutal murder of an eight year old girl, whose name was Fanny Adams.
Fanny, born in April 1859, was murdered by lawyers clerk Fredrick Baker on 24 August, 1867. Her dismembered body was found in a hop field north of her home in Alton, Hampshire. Baker was found guilty and hanged outside Winchester jail on Christmas Eve. He was the last person to be executed at Winchester.
Fanny Adams was buried at Alton cemetery and a stone was erected over her grave. The grave can still be seen today.
During the mid 1860s, the process of canning food had become more efficient, the manufacture of cans had been mechanised and the cooking time reduced drastically. This resulted in a cheaper product and the Admiralty opened a canning factory in the Deptford Victualling Yard. Tinned mutton became part of the diet of the Royal Navy, much to the displeasure of the sailors.
This displeasure led to a rumour that parts of the dismembered body of Fanny Adams had been traced to the Deptford Victualing Yard and tins contained her butchered remains.
‘Fanny Adams’ became the Royal Naval slang for tinned meat and stew. The term “Sweet Fanny Adams” meaning ‘Nothing’ was also born and was a description of the sailor’s opinion of the tinned meats.
However, a use was found for the large empty meat tins. Up until that time, when sailors and Royal Marines lived, ate and slept in their mess decks (a system that was still in use, at least until the late 1950s,) wooden buckets were used to collect food from the galley, water for washing crockery etc. and to collect the Rum Ration. The empty meat tins were modified and gradually replaced the wooden buckets. These new buckets were given the slang name ‘Fanny’s’.
Needless to say, the Rum Fanny was treated with great respect and became the responsibility of the mess rum bosun
I. Had a walk in shower fitted the same by Taylor made bathrooms fantastic people well pleased
Great video.
Every video I watched showed the shower tray being fitted on a bed of cement.
Is that not the correct way?
Also the rubber seal shouldn't have sealant added around it according to instructions. It is a soft seal that compresses.
We moved into a house with a walk in shower. We're going to fit a bath, but as we don't own the house, it'll have to be over the walk in shower, and removeable if we ever move out
when/how did you add the fixer foam under the tray, did I miss it?
Think my camera ran out of battery - this is what happens when Max isn't about!
@@plumberparts how did you do it - do you just stick the nozzle under the tray and squirt it in, and let it fill itself in between all the blobs of mortar?
Hi what make of shower tray is it