Great video fellas it’s all coming together the main reason you stitch weld is because if the chassis flexes and a weld cracks it will continue to crack the entire weld , if any welds crack the way you did it , the crack can only go 1 inch not the length of the chassis great job!
Aweesome content, loving this build. U can still flip the tailshaft and the crossmember notch, i dont know what height lift u will b running but u might need to flip it
Do what u do mate. We are all here because we want to see the build. Your one of the only RUclipsrs that actually do it like the rest of us, when u can, when it all goes right. Not like the big time guys that can just throw money at their problems.
I would look at getting rear coil tower brace. They are known to crack and tear from the chassis when heavier duty springs and weight is put on the rear end. Because you are doing the Ute, you could get the PSR rear coil tower brace that goes across both towers and gives strength to both towers and extra chassis cross bracing. Otherwise get the Blackhawk coil tower brace that bolt in before you put the springs in. It was one of the thing I needed from the engineer to get GVM upgrade and I was grateful I was made to do it because my coil towers had already started to bend upwards. Awesome job with the build. Will hopefully inspire others to get out there and have a crack 👍
Great stuff the only thing I would advise and what we do on superior engineering coil conversions is between welds of the chassis bracing put some sika flex stops any chance of water or debre getting in 👍
Nice work. 👌👌 It's amazing what you can do with the right tools, a bit of research and the willingness to have a go. Looking forward to the next episode.
Good work guys I have just finished restoring my 60 series doing all the rust up in that so I know how much work it takes and it’s all well worth it in the end
Great project and episode Liam Reminds me when I was you’re age doing the same thing, one difference there was no u tube back then This will give you the confidence to do even bigger projects Looking forward to the next episode
Nice work! I have a GU tray/canopy (which is for sale, by the way). It was recommended to me that due to there being a recognised problem with the rear shock tower braces tending to lean in after a time, that I put in a shock tower brace. Ultimate Engineering fitted one of theirs to my car, along with rear control arms and a few other bits and pieces. It might be worth considering one of these braces. All the best!
Dang, the chasis kit, solved a lot of headaches and didn't cost a fortune. The stuff you get in Australia is so cool. I don't know of any place locally that would make and sell a kit like that. Nice welds.
Great Work Fellas. Like a few people have said about the weld through primer, it will help. Also have a look at other Spary painting vids on here, Prepsol (Wax and Grease remover) would be a better option than Turps. Just my 2 cents, but again you're giving it a go.
You guys do good honest work and thats great. Unfortunately if i where you, i would strongly consider starting over. Like others have said, you should of applied weld though primer to the brace kit and you should of used kbs chassis coat instead of rust guard. That stuff will chip away over time and you will have to repaint it all over again. Save some time take it to a sand blaster and start over, yes it sucks but your going to regret it other wise.
that paint on the chassis was most likely something like nilrust an underbody rust protection its pretty good stuff for protecting against rust on your 4x4
Great job with the welding. I second the comments about welding through primer but its done now so next best option is tp trap some oil between the plates. ACF50 is fantastic for that, its used inside the steel tubes of aircraft. That chassis is looking mint! Cant wait for the next episode. 😁
great work, while its still a rolling chassis it would be a good time to apply cavity wax or whatever rust proofing you prefer on the inside of the chassis rails and the reinforcement plates. I like the lanolin rust proofing, and cut it down with wd-40 to get it to flow into hard to reach spots
I swear by “kiwi love gel” which I drench my chassis in regularly inside and out. I do a lot of beach, still like new👌. Oh, if you don’t know….it’s lanolin 😂👌🤣
Doing well. Definitely sika automotive sealant between all the stitch welds on the strengthening plates. The rust jacking in there will be brutal after a few years. And put some bloody pants on when your welding mate. The uv light that comes off the welder burns the hell out of you.
Should you/need to treat and paint the inside of the chassis rails ? Not sure how you would do it though. Only a couple of episodes in and hanging for what you do next. Great project 👍
nice work mate..Theres a couple of minor things you could have done but hey we all learned as we went as will you..Nothing serious enough that deserved a lecture from my point of view so thumbs up from me.
Because you didnt prime between the plates soak it with rust converter & remember to flush the crap out of it once in a while especially after a beach run apart from that well done 🙂👌
Lookin good man! Id say spray something in all the areas you cant get too like in the frames themselves, and inbetween the metal braces you welded on the sides of the rails (although thats gonna be hard) since theres still bare metal inbetween those plates that can start rusting again. Itll be hard, but theres really thin stuff out there that should be able to get inbetween the layers. I could check the product I use for that, but im in europe and its probably not available there
So my question referring to the comment "Wagon is not not as heavy duty as ute". So are the chassis rails & crossmembers a smaller gauge? How is it less heavy duty? & does the wagon chassis flex more than the ute? Like a Unimog chassis flexes? Because that would be good?
I've got a gu wagon with the typical white flaking paint 🤦♂️ I'm honestly tempted to swap the cab to either a different colour wagon or Ute but my question is, do you know if you can engineer bigger tyres on the Ute? That might be enough to get me into a Ute and splurge on a canopy aha
Please keep in mind guys, doing car/Ute/4x4 builds, theres usually weeks of planning into a few days of work. So if theres 20min of footage, theres 3-9 days of planning, including design, engineering and CAD (Computer Aided Design)
I said it on the last episode. Should have braced the rear coil towers. They crack. Easy to do on a bare chassis. I've helped 2 mates do their Patrol when they cracked. It's a pain in the arse on a road going vehicle.
@@bogged2theeyeballs695 they also do bolt in kits for gq gu coil spring towers you muppet. What kinda clown named bozo but cant juggle. I see you trying to juggle all my comments but u just keep dropping em on the floor 🤡🤡
As other people have said should brace the rear towers before you put the body back on. Even a bolt in kit would be better than nothing. And should also raise the front shock towers, psr sells bolt in rasied towers and then you can run longer shocks. With the chasssis brace and welding its basically up to the engineer. Some say dont use the brace and others want you to use it. With the chassis brace since you didnt show you using weld through primer on the rails and brace before welding im going to assume you didnt use any and you will most likely get a lot of brown rusty water seeping out behind those braces running down your chassis after moisture and water has gotten in there. Depending on the engineer they might pick up on it and want you to redo the whole thing.
Boys I don’t know if you are using the cab off the leafy cause I’m pretty sure the cab mounts are different to coil cab better to find out before you paint cassis
9:20 might have been a good idea to spray on some weld through primer between the chassis and plate... i can see rust being a problem down the track
Quality over quantity --- Keep killing it guys!!
Thanks mate :)
Nice work fellas can’t wait to see it done 🤘
Great video fellas it’s all coming together the main reason you stitch weld is because if the chassis flexes and a weld cracks it will continue to crack the entire weld , if any welds crack the way you did it , the crack can only go 1 inch not the length of the chassis great job!
Thanks Tristan! :)
That's very handy to know cheers mate!
Aweesome content, loving this build. U can still flip the tailshaft and the crossmember notch, i dont know what height lift u will b running but u might need to flip it
Do what u do mate. We are all here because we want to see the build.
Your one of the only RUclipsrs that actually do it like the rest of us, when u can, when it all goes right. Not like the big time guys that can just throw money at their problems.
I would look at getting rear coil tower brace. They are known to crack and tear from the chassis when heavier duty springs and weight is put on the rear end. Because you are doing the Ute, you could get the PSR rear coil tower brace that goes across both towers and gives strength to both towers and extra chassis cross bracing. Otherwise get the Blackhawk coil tower brace that bolt in before you put the springs in. It was one of the thing I needed from the engineer to get GVM upgrade and I was grateful I was made to do it because my coil towers had already started to bend upwards.
Awesome job with the build. Will hopefully inspire others to get out there and have a crack 👍
Looking really good mate, just a suggestion for welding…. Weld proof primer paint 👍
Great stuff the only thing I would advise and what we do on superior engineering coil conversions is between welds of the chassis bracing put some sika flex stops any chance of water or debre getting in 👍
4WD dreams right there. So far so good. Well done. 👏
its good to see more people supporting PSR and running their gear. they make very good quality kits for lots of 4wds
Good work boys, can't wait to see you put on the track
Great project gents. Ur still my favourite channel. Love the diversity, and ur whole approach
Nice work. 👌👌 It's amazing what you can do with the right tools, a bit of research and the willingness to have a go. Looking forward to the next episode.
Fair play lads, looking forward to watching this build!
Ideally would want to do the weld through primer before welding but just put some brunox in between the plate and chassis and she'll be right 👍
I'll be doing this exact thing very soon can't wait to see this build
Good work guys I have just finished restoring my 60 series doing all the rust up in that so I know how much work it takes and it’s all well worth it in the end
Great project and episode Liam
Reminds me when I was you’re age doing the same thing, one difference there was no u tube back then
This will give you the confidence to do even bigger projects
Looking forward to the next episode
Great job. If your looking for parts I've got a GQ wagon with a RD2.8 complete vehicle. Can't wait to see the Ute finished.
mad video mate always good to watch.
Nice work! I have a GU tray/canopy (which is for sale, by the way). It was recommended to me that due to there being a recognised problem with the rear shock tower braces tending to lean in after a time, that I put in a shock tower brace. Ultimate Engineering fitted one of theirs to my car, along with rear control arms and a few other bits and pieces. It might be worth considering one of these braces. All the best!
Bloody great video guys. I wish I had the drive and skill to take on such a big project.
Worth the wait mate awesome video no rush
Great content no fancy crap 😊
Keen as for this series boys!
Dang, the chasis kit, solved a lot of headaches and didn't cost a fortune.
The stuff you get in Australia is so cool. I don't know of any place locally that would make and sell a kit like that.
Nice welds.
Are you doing a bolt on rear coil tower brace then? Looks like you didn't do the weld on brace.
Rear spring tower brace!!!! It's not fun when they crack in the bush. Super common failure on GUs. I used the Superior Engineering kit.
Great Work Fellas.
Like a few people have said about the weld through primer, it will help. Also have a look at other Spary painting vids on here, Prepsol (Wax and Grease remover) would be a better option than Turps. Just my 2 cents, but again you're giving it a go.
You guys do good honest work and thats great. Unfortunately if i where you, i would strongly consider starting over. Like others have said, you should of applied weld though primer to the brace kit and you should of used kbs chassis coat instead of rust guard. That stuff will chip away over time and you will have to repaint it all over again. Save some time take it to a sand blaster and start over, yes it sucks but your going to regret it other wise.
ripper effort so far guys, only thing i would of added would of been coil tower braces as they have a tendency to rip off when driven hard
Im very keen for this build as I will be doing the same conversion on my leafy patrol once I find a chassis keep up the good work looking good 👍
I loved this vid! amazing build!!!!!
I recommend to get the rear coil ( chassis) mounts braced , they’re known to bend
Glad you guys are back....
Awesome work, Liam! That chasis looked crisp at the end 🤘
that paint on the chassis was most likely something like nilrust an underbody rust protection its pretty good stuff for protecting against rust on your 4x4
How good 👍 looking forward to seeing the final result
Lets go I’ve been waiting for month , awesome video keep it up brahs 😊
Loving this build mate!
Looking good, guys, the only thing I would of done differently would of sprayed the chassis with raptor instead
Great job with the welding. I second the comments about welding through primer but its done now so next best option is tp trap some oil between the plates. ACF50 is fantastic for that, its used inside the steel tubes of aircraft.
That chassis is looking mint! Cant wait for the next episode. 😁
great work, while its still a rolling chassis it would be a good time to apply cavity wax or whatever rust proofing you prefer on the inside of the chassis rails and the reinforcement plates. I like the lanolin rust proofing, and cut it down with wd-40 to get it to flow into hard to reach spots
Nice work, man. Good comments and advice here in the comments from the seasoned welders.
Been waiting for this one yeeew
I hope you checked the inside of the chassis rails? My GQ rusted from the inside out. Didn’t notice until it was too late. 😢
I swear by “kiwi love gel” which I drench my chassis in regularly inside and out.
I do a lot of beach, still like new👌.
Oh, if you don’t know….it’s lanolin 😂👌🤣
Doing good mate. Definitely brace rear Coil towers. Wouldn't hurt todo fronts aswell.
getting there slowly :) looking good guys. can't wait to see it all finished :)
Well done mate wish more young blokes do what u lot are doing then bloody gaming etc keep it up lads
Well done, looking good. Cheers
Onwards brother keep it up
Wicked video guys, hope you checked out the straightness of your coil towers in the rear as thats a common problem
That looks sick
Great stuff young fellas. Inspiring me…..got me thinking 😂👌👍
Bloody awesome guys absolutely smashing it. Can't wait to see how this comes up love a nice GQ coily ute will be a weapon👍👍
Nice work bro 👏
Hey guys would really love to see a long term review / follow-up video of the ATOTO head video from a bit over a year ago.
Big thing raptor coat centre bottom half of the chassis to give a better rust proofing from scratch
Doing well. Definitely sika automotive sealant between all the stitch welds on the strengthening plates. The rust jacking in there will be brutal after a few years. And put some bloody pants on when your welding mate. The uv light that comes off the welder burns the hell out of you.
Should you/need to treat and paint the inside of the chassis rails ? Not sure how you would do it though.
Only a couple of episodes in and hanging for what you do next.
Great project 👍
Beautiful
Great work guys
Are you doing a bolt on rear coil tower brace then? Looks like you didn't do the weld on brace.
Nice job will come up well mate
Did you get a quote for sandblasting and powdercoating?
Awesome work mate. Great looking work
Keen to see the end result
nice work mate..Theres a couple of minor things you could have done but hey we all learned as we went as will you..Nothing serious enough that deserved a lecture from my point of view so thumbs up from me.
Because you didnt prime between the plates soak it with rust converter & remember to flush the crap out of it once in a while especially after a beach run apart from that well done 🙂👌
Definitely brace the rear coil retainers while you are at this stage.
Looking good liem 👍🏽
Big job. Nice work.
Well done, excellent work
Lookin good man! Id say spray something in all the areas you cant get too like in the frames themselves, and inbetween the metal braces you welded on the sides of the rails (although thats gonna be hard) since theres still bare metal inbetween those plates that can start rusting again. Itll be hard, but theres really thin stuff out there that should be able to get inbetween the layers. I could check the product I use for that, but im in europe and its probably not available there
loving your work lads
Every time he sais "chassis" in this video, We drink 🍻😅
Great...looking sweet.
Good to C U back kiddo
yes cool stuff , but weld through primer would have been the icing on the cake
Won’t it be shorter than a factory Ute as in it won’t be a full size tray with using the wagon chassis without extension?
So my question referring to the comment "Wagon is not not as heavy duty as ute". So are the chassis rails & crossmembers a smaller gauge? How is it less heavy duty? & does the wagon chassis flex more than the ute? Like a Unimog chassis flexes? Because that would be good?
I've got a gu wagon with the typical white flaking paint 🤦♂️ I'm honestly tempted to swap the cab to either a different colour wagon or Ute but my question is, do you know if you can engineer bigger tyres on the Ute? That might be enough to get me into a Ute and splurge on a canopy aha
Please keep in mind guys, doing car/Ute/4x4 builds, theres usually weeks of planning into a few days of work. So if theres 20min of footage, theres 3-9 days of planning, including design, engineering and CAD (Computer Aided Design)
Nice but whats with the inside of the chassis ?
Did you get a coil tower brace as well?
Having a big crack,nice work!!
I said it on the last episode. Should have braced the rear coil towers. They crack. Easy to do on a bare chassis.
I've helped 2 mates do their Patrol when they cracked. It's a pain in the arse on a road going vehicle.
I second this, save yourself the hassle later on
Superior sell a tower brace kit. Easy enough to add it in. Anytime before the tray goes on.
@@krump743 Yep. That's why you would wait until you have finished painting the chassis to then go and weld other items on. 🤡
@@bogged2theeyeballs695 they also do bolt in kits for gq gu coil spring towers you muppet. What kinda clown named bozo but cant juggle. I see you trying to juggle all my comments but u just keep dropping em on the floor 🤡🤡
Looks clean bro
As other people have said should brace the rear towers before you put the body back on. Even a bolt in kit would be better than nothing. And should also raise the front shock towers, psr sells bolt in rasied towers and then you can run longer shocks. With the chasssis brace and welding its basically up to the engineer. Some say dont use the brace and others want you to use it. With the chassis brace since you didnt show you using weld through primer on the rails and brace before welding im going to assume you didnt use any and you will most likely get a lot of brown rusty water seeping out behind those braces running down your chassis after moisture and water has gotten in there. Depending on the engineer they might pick up on it and want you to redo the whole thing.
Great work mate better trying things yourself and learning new things then paying someone to do it 👍
I reckon some GU axles would be a good idea
Loving the videos
Awesome job👍
Did you guys treat the inside of the chassis rails?
Bravo
can we start a gofundme so the dude can buy some new shorts?
Haha
I do envy those 4wd owners who have a good size back yard with well equipped work shops . . . especially those with a 4T vehicle hoist :-(
Those are going to be some tan shins
Nice
seal up those chassis stiffeners or the water and crap will get between and rust out the chassis in no time.
wicked ! great video ! very well explained! Go the Patrol! 🛻📹🤙😎
@TrackandTide should be doing this soon enough! youtube.com/@TrackandTide
Boys I don’t know if you are using the cab off the leafy cause I’m pretty sure the cab mounts are different to coil cab better to find out before you paint cassis
I know you didnt have to but mounts should have been completely welded all the way around
Great video, did you know the paint you used was water based? 💧