✔️✔️ Need Coaching on your project, homestead, or business? Schedule a free 15-minute zoom or phone consultation here. 👉👉 calendly.com/netregenerativelife
Loved the t111 idea, have new home build with vertical 1x6 wood siding, haven't decided on wood spieces, question do you think a T & G product for vertical siding would help repel water intrusion, it's not a board and baton design, rather than leaving slight gap on vertical install wood siding
Thanks for the tip on using the T-111 for the girds.birds. I'm planning on cutting lumber on my bandsaw mill for board and batten siding for my farm house and was just looking for tips before I get started.
As a manufacturer and seller of both Tar paper and synthetic building wraps, we personally choose tar paper any day. It out performs synthetic wrap and is made of 100% recycled materials right here in the USA!
im glad I saw this video I planned on putting T 1-11 on my cabin which is wrapped with felt paper.i was going to shoot the 1-11 right over it without the sleepers you put on the structure.Such a good idea.
Moisture guard, "ice guard", is another great option. It will actually seal around all penetrations such as nails and or staples. I used it on my sisters 100yr old house she bought 15yrs later roof siding everything looks great and holding up nicely. I recommend it.
wicked awesome video. im installing vertical also. tounge and grove installed on furring strips but no drainage cut outs. in gonna have to add some on my furring strips. glad i watched. i was thinking that today and someone also said i should insulate too. i wasnt planing to but i notice your not either. im in new england area.
@@IDRIDER9 Aluminum screen goes under the bottom and top course of lathing and folds over befor the cladding is installed, sandwiching the screen and sealing out bugs!
I did the same thing on my last house. I was able to buy T-1-11 sheets that were slightly damaged for almost nothing from a liquidator. Since I was ripping them anyway, it wasn't a big deal.
great job, Thanks. Just one thing I learnt tonight In my great carpentry book on this topic. If you nail your furring strips on a 45 angle, It helps with ventalation and drainage.
As a girl, doing it differently than the house wrap (using 30 lb felt), I got looks, snod comments such as: well, its your house if you want issues, go ahead... Im grateful for this video & your explanation... its simply logical..😊
Is this an American/Canadian thing; fitting horizontal battens across the "water plane"...?? In the UK you're normally going to see vertical battens first, with horizontal battens afixed to vert ones.
Great video. I’m looking to mill my own white cedar siding. I’ll be making the boards 3” wide T&G with no reveal. I’m planning on face nailing the boards with stainless steel nails. I have many concerns (lol) the main one is can I use your method of tar paper or similar over an existing old spackled stucco finish? Finding the studs behind all this stucco to fasten the strapping will also be a lot of fun 😭
Thank you for this video. I am currently building a tiny house for my girlfriend and I so I will probably be referring back to this video. Just subscribed to you as well man, thanks again!
What kind of electrical boxes did you use? The electrician on my build said that ordinary metal boxes were fine. I am having second thoughts. Helpful video. I am doing vertical siding as well.
You don't really need to seal it. And it's Redwood. The owner used a natural product. I can't remember the name. But it's like a baking soda base that turns it a greenish hue
I was thinking you created a water trap with your horizontal strips then you pointed out the reverse t111 trick.. Nice idea. I worry about delamination and rot but hopefully the water proffong did the trick. I think it will work and I would feel good about what you did. I wonder about making similar strips out of pvc type "lumber" that you cut grooves into. Obviously more expensive and time consuming and maybe overkill. I don't know. Great job and video. Thanks for posting. I'm glad I'm not the last tar paper guy.
How much do I overlap the tar paper? Is there a certain way to start the the second layer of tar paper? (- thinking about how the two layer line up). How do you secure the tar paper - screws, nails, staples? I assume I don't have to tape. Thanks for making this video!
we added visscher on our home contractor used only smaller strips under the sidding will this created difficulty for water to run down and dry? i have photos will like your advice
Not too dissimilar to my 45 year old Norwegian type house here in Scotland. Only difference is my house has board on board cladding and horizontal battens have a 10° bevel to divert any water. Behind the tar paper is 1/2" bitumen coated fibreboard.
have any pictures of the bevel rainscreen. what fasteners did you use for the board and batten, are they meant to hang on the rain screen or penetrate the plywood
In short the fixings don't go through the paper. Only the fixings for the horizontal batten where the posts of the frame are. I have 20 mm horizontal batten, 13 mm x 75 mm back board, 20 mm x 120 mm face board. I don't use anything longer than 50 mm and keep the heads flush.
What sort of trim or baseboard will you put at the bottom? Or is it necessary to have one? I would assume that when the water falls down off the roof, it will splash back onto the ends of the vertical siding and make them warp or rot.
To answer the first part of your question I would not put trim or baseboard at the bottom. In my experience when you put trim at the bottom of an exterior wall you're just creating a rot spot. When the water goes down the wall and hits the trim anywhere where there's a gap in the caulking will then cause moisture and the worst thing is two pieces of wood touching one another that's where rot begins
To answer the second part of your question about roofing. You definitely need a gutter. Any splashing on the ground that would come back up to the siding should be minimized my preference is to keep the siding as far away from the ground as possible. So if you have a little concrete stem wall you just have it as far up away from the ground as possible 6 in 12 in however tall your stem wall is. Another good thing to do is to put gravel around the building if you're in a fire prone zone like we are it helps with fire prevention much more than it is appreciated and it also spreads the splash so that it doesn't bounce up as much. I hope that's helpful!
Is it ok to wrap house with tyvek wrap first and roofing paper after? Also, what if there is no room for horizontal spacer strips over the roofing paper?
I think that would work. There are some mesh products out there that will give you a little bit of a drainage plane. I am not sure what they are off the top of my head.
loved how boards run vertically and how you took all those steps to guard against water intruion. My question is: did you blind nail the boards or were they faced nailed? And if they were blind nailed, what process did you use? thanks Steve
No face nailed. I think You could use the jigs for blind nailing just like a deck. You might have modify the jig so that there is no gap. I actually have 4 jigs that I use on one job then never used again!
It's okay. I might put something in the knots. The only difference between CDX and ACX is that they make it so that there's no knots. Those little cracks in the knots are entry points for water. So I would use a pliable caulk and with a putty knife seal all those cracks in the knots. I wouldn't use something hard cuz it'll just pop out it has to be pliable.
I'm building a goat shack and wanted to protect the exterior of the plywood with tar paper- but how do I protect the lower edge, which will be up on cinder blocks, but still standing in snow for a fw months out of the year? I see you left a few inches bare on the bottom of this wall, but it is up higher & I don't know if that location has snow. Thanks for any tips.
I like the pre-thought on what water will do behind the siding of any choice which all siding can trap it. the corners are the biggest concerns , I do put a 3 x 3 corner flashing on all corners but you are doing right
This is an obvious statement, but you could also just laying out 1X4 PT boards and snapping some quick chalk lines, then running up and down with a router, or running through a table saw with a dado bit.
I am about to do this similar setup but I have added what's called Coravent Bugscreen at top and bottom of wall. And behind my strapping I have 4"x4" spacers cut and installed behind the strapping on each stud.. this will keep the strapping an additional 3/8" from the wall when water enters it will the easily flow down the wall and out through the Coravent..
Hey Mike , great job . Thank you for that . I’m installing wooden sidings on the cement foundation ( first floor ) in front of the ocean , what kind of wood should I use ? I’ve heard so many things from the contractors that made me even more confused, not sure which ones to trust. Can you help please ?
Nice. Good method. Since t1-11 has spaces every 8 inches or so for the bead design, I would have cut a groove in between each one as an extra drainage hole. Also I would have covered the furring strip with SAF so all penetrations are sealed.
I believe SAF is "Self Adhering Flashing". It would be something like DuPont FlexWrap, which is a butyl tape product. Regarding the T1-11, it seems like a lot of 4 foot long strips. Another method might be to buy pressure treated 1x4's in whatever length you wanted, then gang a number of them together, edge to edge (using a pipe clamp), and with a router route a 1/4"-1/2" channels, 1/8"-3/16" deep, every 6"-8". The routing can be done by hand without a straightedge. The channel doesn't need to be perfectly straight in order for any water to drain.
Dave, do you feel the T1-11 is strong enough as a furring material versus solid wood (nail retention)? Do worry about water getting into the plies and causing delamination? I'm about to install B&B on my garage shop, and using T1-11 is an intriguing approach. Here in Colorado we're pretty dry (20%-30% avg. humidity), and any water that would find it's way behind siding would dry fairly rapidly.
10" wide boards for board & batten install should have 2 vertical routed channels along the back side so air can run up entire lengths to dry it out. the wood is supplied this way from commercial supplies such as Maibec
Im adding an addition to my home and the existing siding is painted wood (im thinking plywood) with 1x4 vertical slats every foot or so going up the length of the walls. I want to maintain the look of the house but Im confused as how to sheath the walls. Normally one would use plywood or OSB to sheath, then tar paper (or tyvek) and then the finish siding on top. So if I want plywood to be my finish siding what is the sheathing? What goes underneath the plywood? Do I do two layers of plywood with tar paper in between? HELP!
Hi Mike. Very impressing. I'm about to start a vertical installation with T&G Cedar. Is it possible to talk over the phone for few minutes? I have few questions that I believe you can be a big help to answer them.
would it not be better for water management to do vertical furring strips with horizonatal furring strips on top? will add to wall thickness but seems like it would allow water to pass more efficiently behind the siding?
We are going to build a shed with board and batten out of doug fir. Do you think it is necessary to use a drainage plane on a shed or just on a house with finishing? thanks!
I liked what you did. Tar paper however does not breath. That's why a lot of areas now require some type of Tyvec. That does breath. That's why it's so expensive. Putting 2 layers of tar paper is almost like wrapping it in plastic. I still think it will work, but only time will tell. Looks good though.
Tar paper breaths just fine and when it gets wet, it breaths even better. It has a perm rating of 5 dry, 50-60 wet. It will absorb the excess water and then let it dry out. Lots of builders that use real wood siding are abandoning tyvek type house wraps and going back to tar paper. 4fs0893rxsil3r8n0j24afu1-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Sheathing_Wrap_Table_pdfpng1.png
Hi, loved this vid. :) I bought a bunch of beautiful antique antique barnboards and I would like to use them to side some exterior areas of my house but they are not long enough to do the run from top to bottom so how do I handle that?
I would suggest T1-11 that is 4 in OC giving you double the weep holes and air movement. I think, for the money, if it were my home, I would spring for the CorAvent Sturdy-Strips increasing the breathability 10 fold. IMHO..
@@TheRegenerativeHome T1-11 also counts as "solid wood" and in addition to the sheathing almost meets the cedar council recommendation for thickness of solid wood. I don't think coravent counts as solid wood. In other words I bet coravent leads to the nails loosening.
You said in the video not to wrap the house in plastic because it will rot from the inside out. What about a plastic vapour barrier on the inside walls under the drywall? Just for info sake, I live in an area that has cold winter and warm summers so there can be fluctuations in temperature. In extreme case as winter begins and ends we can get a 20 degree difference in temp in a 24 hour period. I love the video. Soon I’ll be building a heated workshop with board and batten siding. I think I’ll switch from tyvek to tar paper.
Mike, I am planning on doing vertical shiplap just like in this video. I will be using a cor-a-vent horizontal batten strip over the wrb. My shiplap will probably be 6" yellow cedar. For siding fasteners am thinking of trim screws, might need to be stainless for the cedar. Question....with your nailing or with screws, did you put horizontal blocking between the studs every few ??" vertically up the ext. walls for the vertical shiplap to bite into through the plywood or osb sheathing? Or, is the sheathing enough of a bite to secure the siding against. Thanks, Chris Frey
I sheathed in plywood and that plus the strips was enough for the siding to be secured. Trim screws are great! Ring shank galvi nails would be the quickest but stainless trim screws would last forever!
Hey, great video--very helpful! Thanks. I'll be installing shiplap horizontally, but I'm stoked about using felt tar paper and T-111 furring strips, as you did. Question: Is there a low-VOC rot-prevention product out there that you can recommend?
The T1-11 would need to be pressure treated because the water would stay on the on flat unpainted T1-11 surface and rot. The water behind the siding I would hope would be droplets and not running water. I prime ,paint all edges and stain the back. I have T1-11 12 inch on center with battens over the grooves to match the rest of the house which is 1inch cedar with battens. I also have felt barrier and no problem with the house only the siding. Mainly the bottom edges wicking water.
Lush Planet Design Build that thought came to my mind first but then I thought well why not if the furring is to keep the siding off most of the felt paper.
Only problem with that system is that there is not enough ventilation behind the boards to dry our the moisture, witch you correctly said will get behind the board. You need to use either cross layered furring strips or board on top of board siding method to create continous channels of ventilation from top to bottom. Those tiny holes are not enough.
i'm planning on the cross layered technique but curious if the nails should be going through both batten furring strips into the sheathing or just hanging on the furring strips?
@@MichaelTerrell-l4x Not sure if I got how you meant to nail it through both anywhere else but where the battens meet but I think it is enough to hit the top one if it is thick enough to support it
The t1 11 is a bound to fail. Those little holes don't have a chance. Best to think of thr siding as a vertical roof. In a vertical siding you could have counter battened, that is place vertical battens on first then horizontal ones. 2 by 1 treated battens are very cheap.
Is there a special flexible caulking that can withstand the elements to prevent water from getting back there in the first place? Only maybe having to redo it every 10-15 years or so
You could look back to the 60's and 70's on how well tar paper works on a wall. Unfortunately a lot of the walls built that way have already rotted away from the inside since they do not dry out when they get wet or when moisture vapor tries to pass through the wall and condenses. The building science of using Tar paper was thoroughly tested for decades. Problems with mold and rot may not show for 5-10 years, but it's coming.
Those are all valid points. There are systems that are more expensive that you can purchase now that will last longer some of the integral sheathing paper barrier products are very good. But unfortunately the main option that you can get conventionally being the house wrap tyvek or a similar brand are less effective than the tar paper. So if you're going with a non-indigible sheathing vapor barrier product then two layers of thick tar paper will last a very long time. Most of the ones that you see crumbling apart are thin tar paper layers and only one layer
I still Don't think tar paper is breathable. this comment'er I agree with. seems likely that between wood & tar paper will be Moisture/Rot. Luckily I'm just doing a polebarn/garage- likely will use No wrap, maybe tyvek/typar.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
✔️✔️ Need Coaching on your project, homestead, or business? Schedule a free 15-minute zoom or phone consultation here. 👉👉 calendly.com/netregenerativelife
Loved the t111 idea, have new home build with vertical 1x6 wood siding, haven't decided on wood spieces, question do you think a T & G product for vertical siding would help repel water intrusion, it's not a board and baton design, rather than leaving slight gap on vertical install wood siding
All my questions about how to do vertical siding answered in such a short video... genius
Tarpaper is a great choice, already passed the test of time.
Thanks for the tip on using the T-111 for the girds.birds. I'm planning on cutting lumber on my bandsaw mill for board and batten siding for my farm house and was just looking for tips before I get started.
As a manufacturer and seller of both Tar paper and synthetic building wraps, we personally choose tar paper any day. It out performs synthetic wrap and is made of 100% recycled materials right here in the USA!
Super straight forward, great explanation for siding, learned a lot thank you!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for the comment!
im glad I saw this video I planned on putting T 1-11 on my cabin which is wrapped with felt paper.i was going to shoot the 1-11 right over it without the sleepers you put on the structure.Such a good idea.
many homes built in the 40s and 50s used tar paper as a wrap worked very well
Exactly what I need to see. Thank you!
Thank you for taking the time to explain (so well) about proper siding installation.
Lush Planet Design Build is that Ceder.......
I have a house full of rotted 1x8 t&g red cedar because it was nailed directly to the tar paper. I strongly agree with this method.
Thanks for the confirmation!
absolute best way on you tube. Thanks for how it should be done.
Smart... Good to see someone shouting the truth from the rooftops. Good job and thanks for sharing. That house will certainly last 100 plus years.
Moisture guard, "ice guard", is another great option. It will actually seal around all penetrations such as nails and or staples. I used it on my sisters 100yr old house she bought 15yrs later roof siding everything looks great and holding up nicely. I recommend it.
Great explanation. I prefer horizontal layout so that we will have vertical purloins. Job well done
Yes horizontal is way better but that's what the client wanted on this build
Lush Planet Electric, Design Build 👍
Do you flash the cut ends of the board? Especially for multi level buildings, how to detail the board to board ends?
Very informative on water-proofing, and a beautiful shiplap siding home.
That's not shiplap.
wicked awesome video. im installing vertical also. tounge and grove installed on furring strips but no drainage cut outs. in gonna have to add some on my furring strips. glad i watched. i was thinking that today and someone also said i should insulate too. i wasnt planing to but i notice your not either. im in new england area.
Man, that looks great! And seems like something the average Joe could pull off.
i like your ideas on water drainage ....But what about Bugs and other small critters? looks like your building them a nice place to live
You attach a wire mesh (or some product) to the bottom (and top) of the rainscreen.
@@jasonjayalap This addresses the critters but how about the bugs?
@@IDRIDER9
Aluminum screen goes under the bottom and top course of lathing and folds over befor the cladding is installed, sandwiching the screen and sealing out bugs!
Very informative. Thank you
I did the same thing on my last house. I was able to buy T-1-11 sheets that were slightly damaged for almost nothing from a liquidator. Since I was ripping them anyway, it wasn't a big deal.
great job, Thanks. Just one thing I learnt tonight In my great carpentry book on this topic. If you nail your furring strips on a 45 angle, It helps with ventalation and drainage.
What is the name of the book?
Z
This is pure genius!!! Excellent idea!!!
As a girl, doing it differently than the house wrap (using 30 lb felt), I got looks, snod comments such as: well, its your house if you want issues, go ahead...
Im grateful for this video & your explanation... its simply logical..😊
Go for it! So many people just follow. And don't think through the elements.
Great video So. clear. thank you./
Great info! Thanks for sharing!
My pleasure. Thanks for watching!
I just saw your detailed video on building a retaining wall deadman. I am so grateful! Thank you for all you do:)
Is this an American/Canadian thing; fitting horizontal battens across the "water plane"...??
In the UK you're normally going to see vertical battens first, with horizontal battens afixed to vert ones.
That would have been a better option actually. Just what took longer. If I had to do it over again I would do that!
Great video. I’m looking to mill my own white cedar siding. I’ll be making the boards 3” wide T&G with no reveal. I’m planning on face nailing the boards with stainless steel nails. I have many concerns (lol) the main one is can I use your method of tar paper or similar over an existing old spackled stucco finish? Finding the studs behind all this stucco to fasten the strapping will also be a lot of fun 😭
4:10 I'd like to know what the rot prevention treatment was. I'm planning a board-and-batten type shed wall using T1-11.
Just copper green
Great presentation skills
Thank you kindly!
Thank you for this video. I am currently building a tiny house for my girlfriend and I so I will probably be referring back to this video. Just subscribed to you as well man, thanks again!
I do the same thing plus I use treated plywood on bottom four feet of exterior walls
Awesome!
Impressive 🪚🙌
What kind of electrical boxes did you use? The electrician on my build said that ordinary metal boxes were fine. I am having second thoughts. Helpful video. I am doing vertical siding as well.
Great idea, thanks for sharing. 👍🇺🇸
What are you sealing the cedar tongue and groove with?
You don't really need to seal it. And it's Redwood. The owner used a natural product. I can't remember the name. But it's like a baking soda base that turns it a greenish hue
Looks great. Any issues flashing the windows and getting the adhesive to stick to the tar paper?
I was thinking you created a water trap with your horizontal strips then you pointed out the reverse t111 trick.. Nice idea. I worry about delamination and rot but hopefully the water proffong did the trick. I think it will work and I would feel good about what you did. I wonder about making similar strips out of pvc type "lumber" that you cut grooves into. Obviously more expensive and time consuming and maybe overkill. I don't know. Great job and video. Thanks for posting. I'm glad I'm not the last tar paper guy.
See CorAvent strudi strips - $200.00 for 448 feet. 112, 4 footers
Brilliant
Thoughts on 2x Tar paper vs. InvisiWrap by Benjamin Obdyke. Anyone have thoughts of UV resistance of this tar paper?
I’m placing redwood cedar planks horizontally. Should I set up the water barrier the same way with the horizontal pieces of wood for spacing?
Vertical
Tip on vertical siding .cut an angle like 30 degree s on ends by ground,forces water off bottoms of siding where they rot first.
Great tip!
How much do I overlap the tar paper? Is there a certain way to start the the second layer of tar paper? (- thinking about how the two layer line up). How do you secure the tar paper - screws, nails, staples? I assume I don't have to tape. Thanks for making this video!
we added visscher on our home contractor used only smaller strips under the sidding will this created difficulty for water to run down and dry? i have photos will like your advice
Not too dissimilar to my 45 year old Norwegian type house here in Scotland. Only difference is my house has board on board cladding and horizontal battens have a 10° bevel to divert any water. Behind the tar paper is 1/2" bitumen coated fibreboard.
have any pictures of the bevel rainscreen. what fasteners did you use for the board and batten, are they meant to hang on the rain screen or penetrate the plywood
In short the fixings don't go through the paper. Only the fixings for the horizontal batten where the posts of the frame are.
I have 20 mm horizontal batten, 13 mm x 75 mm back board,
20 mm x 120 mm face board.
I don't use anything longer than 50 mm and keep the heads flush.
What type of sheathing is under the tarpaper
Plywood
awesome, tons of useful info. thx!!
Very good. With this design you'll probably have a siding that last 100 years.
I hope so!
What sort of trim or baseboard will you put at the bottom? Or is it necessary to have one? I would assume that when the water falls down off the roof, it will splash back onto the ends of the vertical siding and make them warp or rot.
To answer the first part of your question I would not put trim or baseboard at the bottom. In my experience when you put trim at the bottom of an exterior wall you're just creating a rot spot. When the water goes down the wall and hits the trim anywhere where there's a gap in the caulking will then cause moisture and the worst thing is two pieces of wood touching one another that's where rot begins
To answer the second part of your question about roofing. You definitely need a gutter. Any splashing on the ground that would come back up to the siding should be minimized my preference is to keep the siding as far away from the ground as possible. So if you have a little concrete stem wall you just have it as far up away from the ground as possible 6 in 12 in however tall your stem wall is. Another good thing to do is to put gravel around the building if you're in a fire prone zone like we are it helps with fire prevention much more than it is appreciated and it also spreads the splash so that it doesn't bounce up as much. I hope that's helpful!
How would install your soffit with this system? Does installing the F-channel right on the upper strip make sense?
Hi, I can use hpde black membrane for waterproof?
Is it ok to wrap house with tyvek wrap first and roofing paper after? Also, what if there is no room for horizontal spacer strips over the roofing paper?
I think that would work. There are some mesh products out there that will give you a little bit of a drainage plane. I am not sure what they are off the top of my head.
loved how boards run vertically and how you took all those steps to guard against water intruion. My question is: did you blind nail the boards or were they faced nailed? And if they were blind nailed, what process did you use? thanks Steve
No face nailed. I think You could use the jigs for blind nailing just like a deck. You might have modify the jig so that there is no gap. I actually have 4 jigs that I use on one job then never used again!
Is it ok to use cdx sheathing for siding if you caulk and paint it?
It's okay. I might put something in the knots. The only difference between CDX and ACX is that they make it so that there's no knots. Those little cracks in the knots are entry points for water. So I would use a pliable caulk and with a putty knife seal all those cracks in the knots. I wouldn't use something hard cuz it'll just pop out it has to be pliable.
@TheRegenerativeHome Ok, Thanks so much!
What type of fasteners are you using for the siding?
Galvanized 8 penny nails. 2 1/2inch ish
I'm building a goat shack and wanted to protect the exterior of the plywood with tar paper- but how do I protect the lower edge, which will be up on cinder blocks, but still standing in snow for a fw months out of the year? I see you left a few inches bare on the bottom of this wall, but it is up higher & I don't know if that location has snow. Thanks for any tips.
I would treat the lower edge with emulsifying tar or copper green.
@@TheRegenerativeHome Thank you! I will check that out.
I like the pre-thought on what water will do behind the siding of any choice which all siding can trap it. the corners are the biggest concerns , I do put a 3 x 3 corner flashing on all corners but you are doing right
Do you recommend this vertical method for red wood horizontal siding ?
If you make.the furring strips vertical. Totally
I really like the t-1-11 idea
This is an obvious statement, but you could also just laying out 1X4 PT boards and snapping some quick chalk lines, then running up and down with a router, or running through a table saw with a dado bit.
@@rickrudd or a skill saw
@@jbhcrazyskills9508 why are you trying to be so reasonable!?
I like to think about something too long then propose a difficult solution! 🤣🤣🤣
How does it seal from panetration at all fastening. Regardless of 2 layers
The tar on the tar paper seals around the nails as they enter.
Did you drill through the T1 11 furring strip when mounting the siding? Or was the screw short enough to only penetrate into the T1-11 furring strip?
Through the strip to the studs
That is why tar paper is superior to tyvek. Etc cause it seals around the hole
How did you close this off at the bottom to allow moisture put , but close off to insects, etc ?
I am about to do this similar setup but I have added what's called Coravent Bugscreen at top and bottom of wall. And behind my strapping I have 4"x4" spacers cut and installed behind the strapping on each stud.. this will keep the strapping an additional 3/8" from the wall when water enters it will the easily flow down the wall and out through the Coravent..
What kind of wood have you used on this building?
did you do a rodent screen at the bottom? what protects the end grain?
Hey Mike , great job . Thank you for that . I’m installing wooden sidings on the cement foundation ( first floor ) in front of the ocean , what kind of wood should I use ? I’ve heard so many things from the contractors that made me even more confused, not sure which ones to trust. Can you help please ?
Teak
Thanks Mike interesting idea. What about bug access behind siding? Any issues like paper wasps or lady bug infestation?
Nice. Good method. Since t1-11 has spaces every 8 inches or so for the bead design, I would have cut a groove in between each one as an extra drainage hole. Also I would have covered the furring strip with SAF so all penetrations are sealed.
I believe SAF is "Self Adhering Flashing". It would be something like DuPont FlexWrap, which is a butyl tape product.
Regarding the T1-11, it seems like a lot of 4 foot long strips. Another method might be to buy pressure treated 1x4's in whatever length you wanted, then gang a number of them together, edge to edge (using a pipe clamp), and with a router route a 1/4"-1/2" channels, 1/8"-3/16" deep, every 6"-8". The routing can be done by hand without a straightedge. The channel doesn't need to be perfectly straight in order for any water to drain.
sure. makes sense.
Dave, do you feel the T1-11 is strong enough as a furring material versus solid wood (nail retention)? Do worry about water getting into the plies and causing delamination? I'm about to install B&B on my garage shop, and using T1-11 is an intriguing approach. Here in Colorado we're pretty dry (20%-30% avg. humidity), and any water that would find it's way behind siding would dry fairly rapidly.
10" wide boards for board & batten install should have 2 vertical routed channels along the back side so air can run up entire lengths to dry it out. the wood is supplied this way from commercial supplies such as Maibec
Im adding an addition to my home and the existing siding is painted wood (im thinking plywood) with 1x4 vertical slats every foot or so going up the length of the walls. I want to maintain the look of the house but Im confused as how to sheath the walls. Normally one would use plywood or OSB to sheath, then tar paper (or tyvek) and then the finish siding on top. So if I want plywood to be my finish siding what is the sheathing? What goes underneath the plywood? Do I do two layers of plywood with tar paper in between? HELP!
Hi Mike. Very impressing. I'm about to start a vertical installation with T&G Cedar. Is it possible to talk over the phone for few minutes? I have few questions that I believe you can be a big help to answer them.
would it not be better for water management to do vertical furring strips with horizonatal furring strips on top? will add to wall thickness but seems like it would allow water to pass more efficiently behind the siding?
Have you ever installed a rain screen for cedar Shakes?
thanks for the video. a lot of clarity. but you didn't show how to wrap around the corner. Did you use a L-trim piece?
At this point I would wrap with tar paper and put an extra layer of Bituthane around the corner
Is there any particular way of finishing the corner with the siding itself? How did you finish the corner in this project with the siding?
Great information.
What type of wood is that? Looks like cedar.
Redwood
We are going to build a shed with board and batten out of doug fir. Do you think it is necessary to use a drainage plane on a shed or just on a house with finishing? thanks!
I liked what you did. Tar paper however does not breath. That's why a lot of areas now require some type of Tyvec. That does breath. That's why it's so expensive. Putting 2 layers of tar paper is almost like wrapping it in plastic. I still think it will work, but only time will tell. Looks good though.
Tar paper breaths just fine and when it gets wet, it breaths even better. It has a perm rating of 5 dry, 50-60 wet. It will absorb the excess water and then let it dry out. Lots of builders that use real wood siding are abandoning tyvek type house wraps and going back to tar paper. 4fs0893rxsil3r8n0j24afu1-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Sheathing_Wrap_Table_pdfpng1.png
corrugated furring strips are better for that horizontal furring.
Hi, loved this vid. :) I bought a bunch of beautiful antique antique barnboards and I would like to use them to side some exterior areas of my house but they are not long enough to do the run from top to bottom so how do I handle that?
Unfortunately you'd have to put in a z bar and create a visual line somewhere
@@TheRegenerativeHome could you just add a bevel cut to the ends of the boards and keep going instead of a z-bar?
Thanks for the vid. It perfectly answered my question.
Hi. I'm wondering if you have sheathing under the felt or if you have the felt directly on the studs then with strips and siding
@3:52 he smacks the tar paper, seems he probably has 1/2 OSB or some paneling on top of the studs.
Where do you source your siding?
Are you leaving the cedar raw so that it will gray overtime or are you going to test it?
I would suggest T1-11 that is 4 in OC giving you double the weep holes and air movement. I think, for the money, if it were my home, I would spring for the CorAvent Sturdy-Strips increasing the breathability 10 fold. IMHO..
Good ideas. 8" t1-11 was what we had available.
@@TheRegenerativeHome I am ALL about using what I have! It saves ME $$$$!!
@@TheRegenerativeHome T1-11 also counts as "solid wood" and in addition to the sheathing almost meets the cedar council recommendation for thickness of solid wood. I don't think coravent counts as solid wood. In other words I bet coravent leads to the nails loosening.
What kind of nails did you use in the vertical wood siding?
You said in the video not to wrap the house in plastic because it will rot from the inside out. What about a plastic vapour barrier on the inside walls under the drywall?
Just for info sake, I live in an area that has cold winter and warm summers so there can be fluctuations in temperature. In extreme case as winter begins and ends we can get a 20 degree difference in temp in a 24 hour period.
I love the video. Soon I’ll be building a heated workshop with board and batten siding. I think I’ll switch from tyvek to tar paper.
Its probably to late for you. However, they invented Tyvak for a reason.Its superior when as a house wrap.Period............
Mike, I am planning on doing vertical shiplap just like in this video. I will be using a cor-a-vent horizontal batten strip over the wrb. My shiplap will probably be 6" yellow cedar.
For siding fasteners am thinking of trim screws, might need to be stainless for the cedar.
Question....with your nailing or with screws, did you put horizontal blocking between the studs every few ??" vertically up the ext. walls for the vertical shiplap to bite into through the plywood or osb sheathing? Or, is the sheathing enough of a bite to secure the siding against. Thanks, Chris Frey
I sheathed in plywood and that plus the strips was enough for the siding to be secured. Trim screws are great! Ring shank galvi nails would be the quickest but stainless trim screws would last forever!
Over time, galvanized nails can/will bleed a black streak. Stainless steel is expensive but the best way to go for that reason alone. In my opinion.
Could use cut strips of Hardie Plank (or equivalent) board and batten 4x8 sheets for the horizontal strips, which will never rot.
Great idea!
Hey, great video--very helpful! Thanks. I'll be installing shiplap horizontally, but I'm stoked about using felt tar paper and T-111 furring strips, as you did. Question: Is there a low-VOC rot-prevention product out there that you can recommend?
Thanks I'm glad it was helpful!
try concrobium! just salts
I like your thinking But I have my doubts !!!!
How would you do horizontal siding. I know a guy that used Tyvek and nailed right on it with no furring.
this was exactly what I needed. thank you!
Glad it helped!
The T1-11 would need to be pressure treated because the water would stay on the on flat unpainted T1-11 surface and rot. The water behind the siding I would hope would be droplets and not running water. I prime ,paint all edges and stain the back. I have T1-11 12 inch on center with battens over the grooves to match the rest of the house which is 1inch cedar with battens. I also have felt barrier and no problem with the house only the siding. Mainly the bottom edges wicking water.
I believe the furring strips would serve their purpose better if they are laid and attached vertically.
Lush Planet Design Build that thought came to my mind first but then I thought well why not if the furring is to keep the siding off most of the felt paper.
What?
Have you ever installed oak boards as siding?
Oak doesn’t have much resistance to the elements, or bugs does it?
Only problem with that system is that there is not enough ventilation behind the boards to dry our the moisture, witch you correctly said will get behind the board. You need to use either cross layered furring strips or board on top of board siding method to create continous channels of ventilation from top to bottom. Those tiny holes are not enough.
Good point. I think it would have been best to use a manufactured drainage strip product.
i'm planning on the cross layered technique but curious if the nails should be going through both batten furring strips into the sheathing or just hanging on the furring strips?
@@MichaelTerrell-l4x Not sure if I got how you meant to nail it through both anywhere else but where the battens meet but I think it is enough to hit the top one if it is thick enough to support it
The t1 11 is a bound to fail. Those little holes don't have a chance. Best to think of thr siding as a vertical roof. In a vertical siding you could have counter battened, that is place vertical battens on first then horizontal ones. 2 by 1 treated battens are very cheap.
Putting horizontal furring strips on top of vertical ones before you put the board and batten siding on is an excellent idea!!!
Is there a special flexible caulking that can withstand the elements to prevent water from getting back there in the first place? Only maybe having to redo it every 10-15 years or so
Thank you, sir
You could look back to the 60's and 70's on how well tar paper works on a wall. Unfortunately a lot of the walls built that way have already rotted away from the inside since they do not dry out when they get wet or when moisture vapor tries to pass through the wall and condenses. The building science of using Tar paper was thoroughly tested for decades. Problems with mold and rot may not show for 5-10 years, but it's coming.
Those are all valid points. There are systems that are more expensive that you can purchase now that will last longer some of the integral sheathing paper barrier products are very good. But unfortunately the main option that you can get conventionally being the house wrap tyvek or a similar brand are less effective than the tar paper. So if you're going with a non-indigible sheathing vapor barrier product then two layers of thick tar paper will last a very long time. Most of the ones that you see crumbling apart are thin tar paper layers and only one layer
I still Don't think tar paper is breathable. this comment'er I agree with. seems likely that between wood & tar paper will be Moisture/Rot. Luckily I'm just doing a polebarn/garage- likely will use No wrap, maybe tyvek/typar.
It looks like the vertical siding is cedar. That is more resistant to bugs and moisture.
I can't remember. It is either cedar or redwood. Both work well for rot and bug resistance