thank you kindly from the upper 50 US. the bug screen was a mystery to me until I saw how you installed it, as well as the cut drip-edge-strip under you sills. superb
Thank you. Finally someone who knows what they are talking about when it comes to rainscreen installation. As we all know, water is a houses worst enemy, whether from the roof, walls, or foundation. You would be amazed at how many people don't understand the fundamentals of water drainage. Good job.
Thanks for great demonstration. One question: if I want to cement stone directly to my exterior brick wall, do I need to worry about moisture? Will I need to have any kind of rainscreen between the brick and stone?
when you use the rain screen (furring strips), do you set the window out any further? I can't tell in this video since you already have the trim around the window.
what I was taught long ways back, was that the space between the siding and the insulated wall will act like a chimney, the insulated building wall will almost always be warmer than outside air in most parts of the world, so it will warm the air that is between the siding and the wall and thus evaporate any moisture left through by the siding, and 99,99% of time that will not be running water, if you got running water behind your siding, there is something wrong in the way the siding was put on, so the paper on top of the insulated wall is there to mostly not let this vent air into the insulation, thus reducing the effectiveness of the insulation, it will not let running water in, it will stay on the paper, but it is not there to moisture proof it, in fact, the opposite - it lets the moisture through, to let any residual moisture in the insulation or wooden framing to evaporate via that same air "chimney" created by the space between the siding and the building wall, and this "chimney" vents into the zone of the roof where the roof vent channel starts - this is how it was described to me here the tradition is to put at least a 25mm (1") spacer between the siding and the wall, any treated wood will work, since it will most likely never see running water, so the treatment is just to avoid mold growth, some even recommend 40mm (1-1/2") for 2 floor height siding wall
was struggling with using the expensive Cora-vent at the bottom of my rain-screen, the bug screen looks like it work better and a heck of a lot cheaper. Thanks!
How would you recommend adding rain screen to existing siding? Noticed that insects can enter behind the siding of the house I moved into (has about 3’ of exposed concrete underneath). I don’t want to seal the gap obviously but want to deter insects. Thanks!
If I'm not mistaken, house wrap needs to be permeable. Wouldn't you decrease the permeability when applying two layers of house wrap? This is a first that I am seeing this.
Two layers decreases the permeability, but not enough to cause a problem. I don't see that 2 layers is actually necessary here. But in the case of a stucco siding it's absolutely necessary to have 2 layers, because the stucco will bond to the outer layer, making it incapable of shedding water. Then the inner layer can still shed water if some gets behind the stucco. Also, grade D paper and asphalt felt actually increases in permeability if it gets wet. So there really won't be a permeability problem here.
@@fepeerreview3150 Appreciate the reply. Didn’t realize this was going to be stucco. This makes sense now. Thanks for breaking down your comment as you did.
I'm finally educated on Rainscreen thanks! I've been going to Lower Mainland open houses. Some older 35+ year old 25 storey condo buildings have Rainscreen replaced - sounds like a big job. Does that mean entire building is wrapped in this material as well? Exterior walls needs removed (or replaced as well) to get to the Rainscreen? How many years does Rainscreen needs replaced on averaged?
natural stone moments you should have said crack sealant. But the fact is this house wouldn't bennifit from it. It's an artificially loose house. It is designed to be tight and loose at the same time. And that's the defect in my opinion.
Really nice job. I like to use j-weep on the bottom of the rainscreen tho . You can get a two inch over lap onto the foundation. Also like to see wider drip edge under the Windows just because when I cut the drip edge in my stone sills I've watched the little drops jump the gap when it's too small. lol. Also I'd repaint the sill where it was cut for the drip edge. keep'r protected from that h2o. Epic job tho. Bug screens a nice touch.
+hopperstonemason Thanks for watching! We caulk and fill before our final paint - All this material is just primer coat. Good point on the wider cut on the drip edge.
What do you do for your electrical boxes (outlets, lights, dryer vents)? Do you use mounting blocks? Flashing? Cant find any rainscreen info on this online. Thanks
MrPanky14 Thanks for watching - we use a piece of 2x10 fascia that we cut into a rectangular plate. We then cut a hole to accommodate the plug box or hose bib. We flash the top of the plate and butt / caulk the siding up to it. This allows us to sit the boxes / lights / bbq boxes etc FLAT on the rainscreen -- plus its a clean finished look!
I would recomend using 1/2" galvanized j-trim for your bug screen instead of using soft mesh. Yes it is more expensive but 100$ more is nothing for a new house.
Great video. Unfortunately most of our local building material stores in the lower end of the San Joaquin Valley in California it is not available. It drives me nuts. And when I ask questions about rain screen they look cross eyed at me and ask what are you talking about.
Thanks again for the great video. I have a question regarding window trim and drip caps. I was thinking of building 4 piece flat stock window trims but I see most builders (here on the Island) are building 5 piece with a beveled sill trim. Is this code here in BC? If I went with a 4 piece kit would I need to add a drip cap to the top of the bottom trim piece? Thanks again. Keep it up.
I think the easiest way to determine that is to reach out to your local building inspector. I would assume not - but every city, town, province or state is different. Thanks for watching!!
I wonder if all those staples are a good idea. It seems like you're adding thousands of little holes that at some point may allow moisture to reach the sheathing.
I hear what your saying, but that's overlapped tar paper and when heated will seal around almost all holes. This is definitely way better than installing siding the traditional way. If you wanted to go overboard, you could use ice and water shield, which is a sticky, very sticky membrane, Jmo...
Everything is built as cheap as possible out here. If #30 is good then #60 would be better but it's $5 more per roll and that's too much. Also this garbage about it getting hot and sealing around the staples is utter bull. #30 and #60 paper if it gets wet and can't dry it completely disintegrates. I am speaking from first hand experience as a contractor. I have never pulled off disintegrated typar or tyvek ever. Tar paper on the other hand especially #30 to often.
"Thirty minute" building paper?? Are you talking about thirty pound? I have never heard of thirty minute. If so is it the newer fiberglass matt reinforced version of the old style 'tar paper' /building paper? I would be interested to hear what you think of that if it is what you are using. Taking apart old buildings shows the deterioration of what was usually fifteen pound building paper and I am wondering if the strength of fiberglass would help with that as well as tears on installation. Doug
@@davemowles1389 Google this: Thirty minute building paper. Description. The Hal-Tex 30 Minute Heavy Breathable Building Paper is a grade D, heavy kraft paper that has been saturated with asphalt. It provides up to 30 minutes of water resistance by shedding water and stopping moisture, while letting wood breathe by allowing water vapour to pass.
Hey Doobysnacks -- hah! I had to watch it like 3 times - but the paper is lapped correctly - the bottom of the upper piece is curled out - not behind the lower... stop it at 3:31 and look to the right of my hand... all good! Thanks for watching!!
Doesn't Tvek/house wrap seal up the house? Building paper doesn't seal up the home. It is a barrier against the frame. With today's demand insulating homes, I don't think house wrap meets the demand.
The idea of tvek is that the inside-the-house water vapor can pass through it. Maybe it works that way in a warm climate. When it's cold, the vapor hits the cold tvek, condenses, and then sits there against the sheathing.
your rain screen installation which is building envelope does not pass from my expertise. with my experience you do not see those staples outside which will get water inside if water gets thru
At 3:29 it looks to me like you have neglected the rule that entails positive overlap. looks like a clear way for water to get right back in behind the rainscreen. Two layers or not this is incorrect. also cmon it takes two seconds to cut a piece of strapping, seeing that broken piece of strapping by the window just looks sloppy.
The fact is 2 layer trap and condense water. Tyvek is the best product out there and everyone knows. It but builder don't want to fucking buy it. The fact is your in BC and didn't put cedar peelings in instead of treated plywood is a joke.
Everything is built as cheap as possible out here. 30 min paper why not 60 min paper cause it's $5 a roll more that's why. Tyvek are you kidding it's $100 a roll I can buy 4 rolls of 30 min paper for that price. Also won't use prepainted Hardie cause it is slightly cheaper to paint on site. These guys don't care I see guys painting houses in the rain all the time. Completely asinine
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Would really like to see how you trimmed out those windows in detail. Thanks for the videos.
I live on the Pacific ocean and that's the best water barrier I've seen. Most homes here just rott out in 10-15 years.
Thank you for a simple and informative video. Couldn’t ask for more.
thank you kindly from the upper 50 US. the bug screen was a mystery to me until I saw how you installed it, as well as the cut drip-edge-strip under you sills. superb
Thanks!
Wow! Thanks for sharing!
Great Video!
Thank you,
Mike
Calgary
Very helpful. Thank you very much.
Hopefully this will be useful for my building science mid term tomorrow
Thank you.
Finally someone who knows what they are talking about when it comes to rainscreen installation. As we all know, water is a houses worst enemy, whether from the roof, walls, or foundation. You would be amazed at how many people don't understand the fundamentals of water drainage.
Good job.
Check out DuPont RainVent Batten.
You can run them vertically and horizontally and provides drainage and ventilation.
I have a request for you. Make a video on flashing windows. And as a follow up, trimming windows from outside.
Yes
Thanks for great demonstration. One question: if I want to cement stone directly to my exterior brick wall, do I need to worry about moisture? Will I need to have any kind of rainscreen between the brick and stone?
when you use the rain screen (furring strips), do you set the window out any further? I can't tell in this video since you already have the trim around the window.
what I was taught long ways back, was that the space between the siding and the insulated wall will act like a chimney, the insulated building wall will almost always be warmer than outside air in most parts of the world, so it will warm the air that is between the siding and the wall and thus evaporate any moisture left through by the siding, and 99,99% of time that will not be running water, if you got running water behind your siding, there is something wrong in the way the siding was put on, so the paper on top of the insulated wall is there to mostly not let this vent air into the insulation, thus reducing the effectiveness of the insulation, it will not let running water in, it will stay on the paper, but it is not there to moisture proof it, in fact, the opposite - it lets the moisture through, to let any residual moisture in the insulation or wooden framing to evaporate via that same air "chimney" created by the space between the siding and the building wall, and this "chimney" vents into the zone of the roof where the roof vent channel starts - this is how it was described to me
here the tradition is to put at least a 25mm (1") spacer between the siding and the wall, any treated wood will work, since it will most likely never see running water, so the treatment is just to avoid mold growth, some even recommend 40mm (1-1/2") for 2 floor height siding wall
Holy Crap...lots of building science and experience.
was struggling with using the expensive Cora-vent at the bottom of my rain-screen, the bug screen looks like it work better and a heck of a lot cheaper. Thanks!
How would you recommend adding rain screen to existing siding? Noticed that insects can enter behind the siding of the house I moved into (has about 3’ of exposed concrete underneath). I don’t want to seal the gap obviously but want to deter insects. Thanks!
Do the seams of the building paper not need to be taped for energy? (as in Tyvek etc..)
What about cedar wall shakes?
If I'm not mistaken, house wrap needs to be permeable. Wouldn't you decrease the permeability when applying two layers of house wrap? This is a first that I am seeing this.
Two layers decreases the permeability, but not enough to cause a problem. I don't see that 2 layers is actually necessary here. But in the case of a stucco siding it's absolutely necessary to have 2 layers, because the stucco will bond to the outer layer, making it incapable of shedding water. Then the inner layer can still shed water if some gets behind the stucco.
Also, grade D paper and asphalt felt actually increases in permeability if it gets wet. So there really won't be a permeability problem here.
@@fepeerreview3150 Appreciate the reply. Didn’t realize this was going to be stucco. This makes sense now. Thanks for breaking down your comment as you did.
After all that why do you put pine for the trim? Its only going to last 12 or so years.
I'm finally educated on Rainscreen thanks! I've been going to Lower Mainland open houses. Some older 35+ year old 25 storey condo buildings have Rainscreen replaced - sounds like a big job. Does that mean entire building is wrapped in this material as well? Exterior walls needs removed (or replaced as well) to get to the Rainscreen?
How many years does Rainscreen needs replaced on averaged?
Thanks for watching!
Barstow Construction you forgot to leave some space for sprayed insulation.
natural stone moments you should have said crack sealant. But the fact is this house wouldn't bennifit from it. It's an artificially loose house. It is designed to be tight and loose at the same time. And that's the defect in my opinion.
Really nice job. I like to use j-weep on the bottom of the rainscreen tho . You can get a two inch over lap onto the foundation. Also like to see wider drip edge under the Windows just because when I cut the drip edge in my stone sills I've watched the little drops jump the gap when it's too small. lol. Also I'd repaint the sill where it was cut for the drip edge. keep'r protected from that h2o. Epic job tho. Bug screens a nice touch.
+hopperstonemason Thanks for watching! We caulk and fill before our final paint - All this material is just primer coat. Good point on the wider cut on the drip edge.
What do you do for your electrical boxes (outlets, lights, dryer vents)? Do you use mounting blocks? Flashing? Cant find any rainscreen info on this online. Thanks
MrPanky14 Thanks for watching - we use a piece of 2x10 fascia that we cut into a rectangular plate. We then cut a hole to accommodate the plug box or hose bib. We flash the top of the plate and butt / caulk the siding up to it. This allows us to sit the boxes / lights / bbq boxes etc FLAT on the rainscreen -- plus its a clean finished look!
I would recomend using 1/2" galvanized j-trim for your bug screen instead of using soft mesh. Yes it is more expensive but 100$ more is nothing for a new house.
it wouldn't breathe.. that's why it's a screen.. to let air and water out
Ventilated j-trim specifically for this application is available.
Great video. Unfortunately most of our local building material stores in the lower end of the San Joaquin Valley in California it is not available. It drives me nuts. And when I ask questions about rain screen they look cross eyed at me and ask what are you talking about.
Circular saw with a guide can make short work of ripping furring strips.
Thanks again for the great video. I have a question regarding window trim and drip caps. I was thinking of building 4 piece flat stock window trims but I see most builders (here on the Island) are building 5 piece with a beveled sill trim. Is this code here in BC? If I went with a 4 piece kit would I need to add a drip cap to the top of the bottom trim piece? Thanks again. Keep it up.
No exterior insulation?
what is a source for the bugscreen? Thanks!
Paper lapped the wrong way at 3:07. Water collection waiting to happen.
Good catch!
Why no exterior insulation
I'm wondering if it's a concrete building, does it still need to rain screen?
I think the easiest way to determine that is to reach out to your local building inspector. I would assume not - but every city, town, province or state is different. Thanks for watching!!
I wonder if all those staples are a good idea. It seems like you're adding thousands of little holes that at some point may allow moisture to reach the sheathing.
I hear what your saying, but that's overlapped tar paper and when heated will seal around almost all holes. This is definitely way better than installing siding the traditional way. If you wanted to go overboard, you could use ice and water shield, which is a sticky, very sticky membrane, Jmo...
They are a bit of a necessary evil. The sun will heat the paper and seal around them though.
@4:07 Genius
Beautiful that is destroyed by installing crap siding. Use pre-primed 3/4 inch clear cedar siding.
FYI not all Gleasons are that rich 😂
I mean #30 building wrap doesn't meet the demand of sealing the home.
They wouldn't make sealing tape if building wrap meets the demand
Everything is built as cheap as possible out here. If #30 is good then #60 would be better but it's $5 more per roll and that's too much. Also this garbage about it getting hot and sealing around the staples is utter bull. #30 and #60 paper if it gets wet and can't dry it completely disintegrates. I am speaking from first hand experience as a contractor. I have never pulled off disintegrated typar or tyvek ever. Tar paper on the other hand especially #30 to often.
"Thirty minute" building paper?? Are you talking about thirty pound? I have never heard of thirty minute. If so is it the newer fiberglass matt reinforced version of the old style 'tar paper' /building paper? I would be interested to hear what you think of that if it is what you are using. Taking apart old buildings shows the deterioration of what was usually fifteen pound building paper and I am wondering if the strength of fiberglass would help with that as well as tears on installation. Doug
He must mean 30lb like you said, I was also scratching my head !
Google is your friend. Look. It's there.
@@lewissternberg8050 what's there 30 minute bldg paper? Smh
@@davemowles1389 Google this: Thirty minute building paper.
Description. The Hal-Tex 30 Minute Heavy Breathable Building Paper is a grade D, heavy kraft paper that has been saturated with asphalt. It provides up to 30 minutes of water resistance by shedding water and stopping moisture, while letting wood breathe by allowing water vapour to pass.
House wrap "oops" moment at 3:05.
Hey Doobysnacks -- hah! I had to watch it like 3 times - but the paper is lapped correctly - the bottom of the upper piece is curled out - not behind the lower... stop it at 3:31 and look to the right of my hand... all good! Thanks for watching!!
Okay, if you saaay sooo. Haha jk. My bad. I love your work.
All good!! huge thanks for watching my bad acting!!
doobysnacks I thought that at first as well.
30 lb building paper, not 30 minute...
Doesn't Tvek/house wrap seal up the house? Building paper doesn't seal up the home. It is a barrier against the frame. With today's demand insulating homes, I don't think house wrap meets the demand.
The idea of tvek is that the inside-the-house water vapor can pass through it. Maybe it works that way in a warm climate. When it's cold, the vapor hits the cold tvek, condenses, and then sits there against the sheathing.
Hey what thickness are the furring strips?
Will Pelton thanks
your rain screen installation which is building envelope does not pass from my expertise. with my experience you do not see those staples outside which will get water inside if water gets thru
At 3:29 it looks to me like you have neglected the rule that entails positive overlap. looks like a clear way for water to get right back in behind the rainscreen. Two layers or not this is incorrect. also cmon it takes two seconds to cut a piece of strapping, seeing that broken piece of strapping by the window just looks sloppy.
not mouse-proof enough.
The fact is 2 layer trap and condense water. Tyvek is the best product out there and everyone knows. It but builder don't want to fucking buy it. The fact is your in BC and didn't put cedar peelings in instead of treated plywood is a joke.
Everything is built as cheap as possible out here. 30 min paper why not 60 min paper cause it's $5 a roll more that's why. Tyvek are you kidding it's $100 a roll I can buy 4 rolls of 30 min paper for that price. Also won't use prepainted Hardie cause it is slightly cheaper to paint on site. These guys don't care I see guys painting houses in the rain all the time. Completely asinine
This is why houses cost too much. Unneeded useless bullshit. This contractor should be indicted for fraud.