Wow! SIDING Installation TIPS that will take your SIDING to the NEXT LEVEL - FAST!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- With very little effort, you can focus on a few details that will make your project look a lot better, and turn the corner from amateur to pro. The same concepts apply for fiber cement siding, Hardie Plank siding, and vertical panel siding.
Today we’re finishing up the installation of some beautiful wood siding on a big barn. We’re gonna show you a few of the DETAILS that make this vertical wood siding job look really professional.
We’re combining the traditional look of a wood-clad barn with the clean simple lines of modern design….. The way that we achieve this is by installing vertical shiplap wood siding. We’re using cypress wood because its naturally decay and bug resistant, AND its locally sourced and milled right here in North Carolina. We ordered rough sawn 10” wide boards from the mill, and milled the shiplap detail on both edges to get a water resistant lap and leaving a ¼” wide reveal, or groove, between boards. In that way, we’re able to get rid of the battens (of your typical board and batten vertical wood siding), and make the wall look smooth and flat with crisp lines. Let’s take a closer look at how we achieve this:
LAYOUT
You can have a “by the book” installation, where all the joints are tight and nail heads are perfectly flush, but if you don’t focus some attention on the layout, you may have some very awkward transitions that just don’t look right in the end. That’s why LAYOUT is so important.
Here’s how we layed out this wall:
9” reveal centered on the wall
Intersections with window
Extra length for continuous butted corners
CUTTING AROUND A WINDOW
Maintain a ¼” gap around the window edges so you have room for backer rod and caulking. Don’t caulk the top, but DO caulk the sides and bottom
Rip what you can with a table saw or circular saw, but don’t overcut since water can find that kerf and drain down behind the wall. Instead, finish your cuts with a jig saw or pull saw.
CLEARANCES
Use a ¼” spacer to keep the lines straight and ensure that you maintain a gap for water to escape and not wick up into the siding.
We like to keep a 1” gap at the bottom roof to wall flashing since there’s so much splash and water there. We really want to encourage air flow and increase the drying potential by leaving a larger space between the roof metal and end grain of this vertical siding.
CORNERS:
Corner trim is sometimes a necessary evil. But here, since we have both big walls with no other trim around windows, and small walls with big windows on this cupola (where there’s not even much siding at all), corner trim would look like an after-thought. So here, we run our siding 1” long and butt the adjacent board on the opposing wall to make this trimless.
If you do go with corner trim we like to use a 4” and a 5” board so that when assembled they make a 5” revel on both sides. If you use the same width trim on both corners one side will be wider than the other.
It’s all about the details. A little effort can go a long way in making your project look a lot better, and help you turn the corner from amateur to pro. If you’ve got any details you think we missed here, drop em in the comments below. And make sure to hit that LIKE button and subscribe to our channel. Your comments and support really encourage us make more content and keep the ball rolling. Thanks for watching! We’ll see you next time. Peace out.
#siding
#woodsiding
#housesiding
First class video, tutorial and end result on this siding project... nicely done! Best, Matt
Thanks, Matt! Glad to be in touch! Cheers, Logan
Natural wood is like gold
Yes it is! Right now, the lumber prices so high, the cost is about the same as gold per ounce!
@@HeirloomBuilders 😂
Thanks for the lesson on shiplap siding! Awesome barn.
Thanks, Dave! Glad you enjoyed it 🤩
Thank you, great information and presentation!
Your video has some good advice and I like your shiplap approach. I'm designing a house and pondering how to deal with windows, which may be the most complicated and important thing: that could be a video on its own.
GREAT tips, thank you! I just found and started following you all here. I'm using vertical Northern White Cedar shiplap on a barn conversion to living space. Can you share your thoughts on creating a level perimeter cut at the bottom without using a continuous ledger? I've considered running the boards slightly long and cutting after with a worm drive saw against fastening a temporary level ledger to the the foundation to sit the finished cut ends on. Our foundation is raised 24" above grade to accommodate a taller first floor ceiling and SOG 18" below top of foundation wall and 6" above grade. That line on the bottom of the siding boards at a height that will be easy to see. Thanks again for any suggestions!
Well done! Can’t wait for the video .....
Coming soon!
Omg that is Fantastic!
Great looking building! Curious - you mention caulking on the sides and bottom, but not the top. I've always been told just the opposite - caulk the top not the bottom, as it will allow water to escape...
@@DerekRush-q4u when installing windows, caulking goes on the top and sides (but not the bottom). When installing siding, caulk the sides and bottom (but not the top). You want to leave a gap at the top for moisture that is already behind the siding to get out and rollover the top of the window, and then down over the siding. If you leave a gap at the bottom of the window and siding, then all the water rolling down the window will get underneath your siding
@0.07 timeline Amen to that!
😮😮 Als erstes würde ich mir mal Gedanken über Hinterlüftung der Fassade machen. Senkrechte und waagerechte Latrung.
Rockin' it Logan & Crew ! I can be your "How Not To" video example if you need ... ;)
🤣thanks, Shawn! I hope all is well with you.
I am curious, do you face nail the siding? also, do you add horizontal strips to the framing behind the siding to nail to, or do you add blocking between the wall studs?
Fantastic, I am doing the same thing with pine but on the inside of my barn, what nails did you use? Thanks.
Galvanized ring shank nails, but you may need to go back with screws in certain spots where boards twist and nails won’t hold
Is that 4/4 or 5/4 shiplap and what grade lumber was it? Great look and craftsmanship. Thanks Robert in Virginia
Thanks! They are rough sawn 4/4 #1 clear cypress boards with the circular mill marks visible on some surfaces . True 1”+ thickness
What sort of finish do you recommend to protect the wood
What kind of flashing did you use between the siding but joints?
26 gauge painted steel
Very nice technique and video!Did you guys used glue on the corner boards also? Or there are just nails (screws)?
We normally glue the corner boards, but with this rough sawn material, we didn’t feel it would be effective.
I see. Make sense. Thank you Logan!
😂dont pull down your pants
Is this a yankee barn
NC
What difference does that make?
Can't support a channel that makes unnecessary and crude statements.. I'm not here for dirty talk
The phallic joke @ 02:55.🤥 Always use a tape measure and measure twice, cut once. The tape does not lie📏 📐📏✍