#1 Biggest Siding Mistake
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2020
- In this Build Show Matt will reveal the #1 most common mistake he’s sees with Siding Installs. It’s an easy one to avoid if you know it! Also, Matt will delve into the 3 most common lap siding choices in America and tell you the pro/con with each one.
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Matt always gets a thumbs up but a big BravoZulu to him for pointing out letting the subs for HVAC & plumbing work prior to the electrical. That’s valuable info for the up and coming GC and they need all the extra guidance they can get.
I own a 110yr old millhouse that I'm currently trying to remodel and upgrade. I love watching Matt and learning about all the stuff I can't afford to do lol. But seriously I do enjoy watching and learning. Just wish I could afford half of it.
I resided with Hardi primed, 13 years later it looks as good as day one. Top quality paint helps.
I am building my own house right now I used all concrete siding everywhere. My trade guys wanted to work before electrical and since I did the rough in wiring it was easy to do. Huge fan of the channel I don’t miss a video
Matt's videos are SO much more watchable at 1.5X speed.
Great tip... may never watch one in regular speed again
That's most RUclips videos. Some are even watchers at 2x
@@jl9678 yeah the the RUclips Creator's Manual probably says, "speak clearly and slowly" but I rev up almost all of them.
@@cliffordbradford8910 probably something like that . Even though science tells us that we retain more if the speaker speaks faster
@@jl9678 When watching the channel Solving The Money Problem I can only watch at 1.25x max. For Matt Risinger - 1.25x is normal speed! I think perhaps some creators speak "normal fast" and maybe edit before upload at 0.9 to get additional length? I can't help but wonder why Rokfin can do .1 increments but not YT!
I built a shed out of LP Smart siding about 10 years ago, has about a 6” overhang. Live in the northeast, lots of rain, snow, 95 degrees and down to minus 20 degrees, still looks new!
I like the workablity of the LP smartsiding, the fiber cement is very brittle.
alanwagen mine is holding up great, used high quality paint, initially, then just this year, I repainted it, not because it needed it, because we wanted a different color.
Emily Stornetta heah, it might have its place, but I would not use fiber cement in the northeast, holds water, then freezes, might work down south though.
Good thing you didn't submerge your shed in water for 48 hours!
Not exactly sure how that was a rational test by Matt
TheDarthJesus maybe if you live in New Orleans. But only a dumbass would build below sea level or in a flood plain or on a beach that gets hit by Hurricane every year.
Oh my so many good thing to hear from you Matt, order of trades so important. As a HVAC installer I like getting in between the plumbing waste water and the supply as waste water has to obey the laws of gravity.
Matt I love videos like this. Very informative to a curious homeowner. Thanks.
Hello Matt. I used 4x8 sheets of LP Smartside to replace the T-111 plywood siding on an exterior wall of a garage. The T-111 rotted. I did my own sample test of the LP Smartside by placing a few pieces of it in a bucket of water kept outside. After at least 7 years those pieces of wood are still intact - no separation, delamination or disintegration of the material. LP has done studies of their material in Hawaii and say that the destructive formosan termites don't affect the wood and also it holds up well with the large amounts of rain and humidity there. In your video you didn't mention that the fiber cement product is brittle and will break if hit by an object; rock, baseball, etc.
Thanks for the video Matt. We love long term treatments for homes!
I know Matt just talked about lap siding options, but glass reinforced fiber cement GRFC can also be made like stone veneer.
Can have large panels with interlocking joints and lower weight than stone.
Who make a glass reinforced fiber cement product? Hardie products are getting extremely hard to find let alone purchase. The price of Hardie is also discouraging. I noticed Matt didn't discuss steel siding that he used on a house in Austin that he uses as an example of a 100 year wall.
@@jpvill4th As far as I'm aware, only small shops. @fauxrock has a RUclips channel showing off their products.
Hardie uses cellulose for the fiber, which is cheaper than alkaline resistance glass but not as strong. GRFC is harder to produce at scale than cultured stone (no glass, so thicker), but it is possible. Boral has some products that use a pozzolan (fly ash) instead of cement, but I don't think they use fiber.
Just a lowly electrician and technology integrator here... who happens to work on multi-million dollar new construction projects. Please, please, please don't tell people that the electricians and "AV guys" need to go last. While the conduit we use is smaller (for the most part) than duct work and pluming stacks/vents, we have the most prominent and visible openings of all the trades. You should have your electricians and technology integrators on site first to layout recessed lighting, fixtures, speakers, TV, touch panels, etc, etc... and -WORK WITH- the HVAC, plumbers, designers, clients, and even carpenters when possible to ensure the best result for your client/home owner. I can't tell you how many times recessed lighting, or speaker layouts have had to be significantly compromised because of duct work or plumbing runs that could have been changed with proper communication before hand.
Also please install mounting blocks/slabs for your trades when using irregular exterior finishes like lap siding or natural stone...
We do pretty high end stuff (up to $1k/ sq ft). I have a lighting plan, a mechanical plan, and the fixture layout, and a coordination meeting. We have the electrician box the job first, at same time as plumbing fixtures are located (and we do have the structurals coordinated with the fixtures before start of framing). Then it is plumber first (due to gravity), then mechanicals (ducts), then electrician runs wires, then the LV/ comms wiring. Flat finish blocks with full head flashings and sealing are mandatory, for any irregular siding surface. In masonry, we have a flex whip left close, and box the receptacles as the masons progress. Lights, they must be pre-set (typically) per plan.
Believe it or not, there are some of us who are organized, and run our jobs for the least pain and best overall benefit for the entirety of the subcontractors. I get some guys bitching the first time through, but then they get to the end and find they never were stuck rectifying other trades missteps. All good, after that.
Great points!
On most of my jobs, lighting fixture placement supersedes duct placement. Especially recessed grid type arrangements. Best
I have installed both LP and James Hardy on many homes in the mid west. I even whent with LP on my own home. I can say if you read the directions on both they install about the same,right down to calling the joints. I like both sidings and will recommend both hands down over any other sidings in my remodeling business.
Renovating my house in Australia that was clad with hardiplank 36 years ago. All those years of the sun and rain beating down on it and it still looks good today.
Thanks for the info Matt! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Salam. I’m involved in construction in anyway but I really enjoy and appreciate ALL your videos! Thanx a million and looking forward to all your future videos. May The Almighty bless you and your lovely family. Salam
I meant to say “ I’m not involved in construction....”
Love both lp smartside and hardie and they both have their places to best be used.The one main thing you did not talk about is dent and crack resistance. Hardie is prone to cracking if not nailed perfectly and if something hits it like a ball it can dent/crack easily. When installed over a fur strip rain screen it will be extra brittle.
True. After your comment has been here 2 years already, he failed to reply to it. Everybody has a preference based on what they can afford. I have no problem with the LP Smartside product, but caulking the butt joints is indeed something that I don't care for so I agree with him there.
Handling butt joints is the same for Hardie clapboard and LP Smartside clapboard. Both products need to be caulked if a site cut end is used in the field. Alternatively the end can be properly sealed with either product and back flashed. This was one of the bothersome parts of the video: dunking the cut end of the engineered wood product in water while submerging the factory finished end of the Hardie. It's not honest. Neither of them are meant to be kept wet for long periods of time. Hardie will swell and deteriorate, possibly even more quickly than the engineered wood.
My house has Hardi, actually the whole subdivision was specd Hardi and all of the houses are 15 years old and still look as beautiful as they did on day one. Low pressure power wash the siding every couple of years and it's good as new. Nobody has had to paint their house yet around here. Really amazing product.
Thank you so much for this info!
Living in Iowa. 20 years ago Hardy was the premium GoToo siding. Now there are multiple projects that are having spalding problems. Especially around moisture laden areas such as dryer vents & bath fans. Seems in freezing weather it does the same to cement siding as it does to your driveway. Who would have thunk?
If you follow other intelligent building practices the importance of which siding you use is diminished. Joe Lstiburek mentions in a video “Conventional framing, plywood sheathing, self adhered house wrap and vinyl siding is not a bad wall”. I believe he was mostly speaking to vapor permeablity. But none the less if a guy of his experience says that. I don’t think it can be an all bad system.
While I don’t always share your point of view for our Midwest conditions. Your videos always make me think critically. Keep them up.
Matt
Amen! I was a plumber in another life, and it drove me crazy when siding went up before the plumbing.
I have redwood siding installed back in 1986 using asphalt paper as the WRB. The only rot was due to improper flashing. Control the water and you control the rot. Any product will work if the installation is done properly. Next house will be real wood installed with rain clips.
I like fiber cement siding and LP. He definitely needed to mention the strength differences between the two. Cement products are much more brittle than LP. In Texas, where he lives, they can get some pretty crazy storms where extra strong siding might be a good choice.There are trade-offs between every siding option. Great tip about waiting for the trades to be done before siding goes up!
Great videos as always Matt! :)
I've fixed a lot of houses that have hardi board, they all swell and crumble, plus the dust is horrible, you have to wear a mask, i put lp smart side in a bucket for 4 months no swelling no paint issue, 30 year warranty on paint, paint your cut ends that are not caulked, plus they have splicers, you do not have to caulk all your joints just fyi
LP doesnt last 5 years in the pnw.
Yeah, he also didn't paint the cut edge that he soaked in water for 48 hours. Smartside wins for me in middle Tennessee. Silicosis is real bad for you.
I’m also unaware of any houses that are built to do well in a flood which is the only thing this is representing. Having it underwater for 24-48hours with the backside unprotected as well like it would be normally doesn’t really tell me much about how it really works
Great advice. As always.
No, not really.
I was remodeling my bathroom and had a trash pile in the backyard, which included the old bathroom mirror. The way it was laying, the mid summer sun reflected perfectly off the mirror and you could actually see the track of the sun as it rose and set from the melted and warped vinyl siding! Couldn’t believe it
Interesting that James Hardy no longer recommends caulking the butt joints. They used to require a 1/8" gap and caulk similar to the composite material shown in the video. But this was before they offered it pre-painted. The early version would also absorb water. If you have an older installation with a gap and are repainting or are installing the composite siding, the way to make the caulk joint disappear is to apply two coats of caulk. The first is thin and acts like a backer rod that doesn't come flush with the surface. Once it skins over, apply a second coat that is slightly proud of the surface and run your putty knife parallel to the siding across the middle of the butt joint. This results in the caulk taking on the wood grain texture of the siding and the seam will be barely visible when painted.
Re-sided my (masonite lap sided) garage with cement board siding "scraps" from a job. Love it. Paint adhesion is better on CBS too, in my opinion.
Lp smart side is supposed to be painted on the end when you cut it
Hardie too
I think what this shows is that both are really acceptable at the end of the day. But hardie is overall a more stable product. LP has better installation spec...longer...less breakage..but hardie is more durable long term. I guess pick your horse
Submersion of siding for 48 hours is not real world conditions. And yes, end cuts are to be primed / painted which seals the end cuts. Both Hardie and LP require a gap at butt joints. Install your siding to reduce butt joints. I’ve got a 4000 sq ft house with under 20 butt joints for the whole house.
Every plumber and electricians response: Don't care, not my job.
@@509tyler it's not exactly "real world" per se, but in my region it's not uncommon to be at 100% humidity with rain for 3 to 4 days straight. I shit you not, I have seen wood fail in months if not 2 years in this environment
if the various trades are conscientious about their penetrations they can make tighter holes/openings after the siding is in instead of the carpenter having to calculate and measure where to cut the hole - plus the trades can strategically locate a hole so it won't hit onto a lap, but between laps, or into the trim. It's all about having the right subs!
I've installed a descent amount of Hardie siding. I had a fire on a wooden deck that had several pieces of Hardie siding on it. When the fire was put out, most of the Hardie siding was turned into fine ashes.
Great information.
Any Hardie siding needs the back and edges primed when installed 18-24” within grade. It WILL wick water over time. The instructions from Hardie state this. “Failure to do so voids warranty”.
not one builder in america primes the edges of any cut,wood or hardy ,as a painting contractor we are called in after its all hung and ready for paint
@@excelerater Correct, no contractor paints anything as they go.
I MET A FORMER HARDIE REP WHO DID NOT RECOMMEND IT
@@GARRY3754 As a roofing contractor I see it falling to pieces all the time. Especially around dormers. Or becomes so brittle if you touch it boom
Travis Edwards it is amazing. I have been working on 100 year old homes in Detroit and the great cover up of aluminum,trapping moisture around overhangs etc...just text book wrong. Wood could be kept in shape if needed to be. I saw a 150 year house house with original siding, really gave me pause and think. Times are changing I know. I use PVC fake wood but hate cutting it. Peace and be safe.
I like the Arlington boxes. They have the trim built in for various siding's and can be taped just like the windows, but on all 4 sides externally. Then on the inside the few air holes into the box i ensure to tape those and foam around the hole the wires enter. Also they sit flush aren't a "wall wart" and are still waterproof with internal space for a plug.
I've seen the same issues with vinyl and I've also seen the nails push out on that engineered siding and the seems always stand out. I've never ran into issues with the cement board siding and after dealing with so many issues with the others I would just go with it too.
Carpenter bees will LOVE your wood soffit!!! They will make holes and tunnels everywhere!
When you get the James Hardie pre painted do you have to use touch up paint on nails and end cuts in some cases?
Please do video about soffit and fascia. I am renovating a 70s split level. Left existing brick exterior and replaced the aluminum siding with the Cedarmill cement fiber board, lap siding. Will paint entire home when it cools down. I am a diyer, and would love some soffit/fascia direction. Love your content. Thank you Matt!
Hidden vent vinyl soffit gives the most air flow looks great and is available in lots of colors.
@@gceurve1 Thank you for the information!
Hello Matt I love your videos. Im a electrical contractor and was wondering if you could make some videos regarding electrical systems inside your homes. Thanks!
Would you recommend replacing stucco on a house with hardyboard? And if so, would it be going over the stuco, or would you need to rip off all the stucco
I installed that lp style siding with a builder out of Port orchard. Usually instead of caulking the seems we would put these dividers on called h molds ,They would give a better uniform look then caulking. I don't know how they would look after 5 to 10 years especially with expansion and contraction with a wood product.
You are spot on with the trades coming before siding, however enless you are subbing out yourself good luck with a builder giving a rip about that! I think you can't go wrong with either LP smartside or James Hardy. They both have pros and cons. LP is probably the best for baseballs, or hail. Hardy is tough and has a leg up when it comes to fire. Both will have to be painted again down the road. I do agree on vinyl. After some hail damage dented the heck out of our aluminum siding about 12 years ago we replaced with the best vinyl we could find. with the extra budget we added stone 5' up in the front. The vinyl has held up well, but even with a no fade warranty there is fading on the south side of our house. Thanks for a great video!!
Your smile landed the joke with the bbq grill and vynil.
Insulated vinyl siding? Advice, it good?
Hardie and LP smartside are both good choices. In Florida I used Hardie, but in Colorado LP was the better choice. I would encourage people to look at all the advantages and disadvantages of each product in comparison, which were not covered in this video.
Why was LP better in Colorado, because they get less rain?
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 Yes, dry climate and more houses are multistory, which gives LP an advantage for installation.
I plan to use fiber cement when we replace the siding. Currently we still have slate siding which is mostly in good shape. We scraped and painted 6 years ago and it is peeling, we used val spar latex as we couldn't seem to find oil based and it just doesn't seem to last like the oil bases did on it even though we used a good quality paint. We plan to paint one more time and then when it needs painting again, pull it off replace windows, insulate and add a rain screen. what kind of paint do you recommend for this? What paint do you recommend for the fiber cement siding?
Hi Aaron, great information. We live at the 6,000 ft level , lots of snow. How does Hardie plank perform vs engineered wood? Thank you!
Considering cement siding to replace 30 year old Masonite siding. What do I need to know about what should go underneath. New house wrap? Rain screen? Furring strips? What's best practice on a remodel in a hot and humid southern state with 1980's construction?
Well I think I might go to Hardy back like I wanted to thanks for all the tips
Check out Everlast Siding
I built with Hardi and its the best! I also build outdoor cabinets out of it too, after 15 years its like new, it holds paint great because no expanssion. When build, forget osb use plywood, use hardi backer and plaster over it vs the powder with paper crap we call drywall, and hardi vs any else. Never build with a material that gets wet once it's ruined like OSB, drywall or cellulose insulation. It's cost to make is the lowest and that's what you get.
Great video Matt. Will get to see your rain screen details?
Beautiful information... which real information
I used Hardie on a remodel in 2002. It wasn't pre-painted. Sometimes when I'm back in Minnesota, I'll drive by the old house. It still looks great. I used lap siding on the body of the house and Staggered shingle look on the gable facing the street. My neighbors liked it so well, that a couple of them copied me as the original houses (tract post war housing) all were sided with cedar shakes. Fast forward to 5 years ago, I built a Deltec home in South Dakota. When I was researching Deltec, they used Hardie, but right before we purchased, they switched to another provider that they claimed was just as good as Hardie. While it looks great, I found differences in thicknesses and width of the product. Handling was more difficult as it would easily snap. I did find that Hardie that was close to the ground or continuously would delaminate. I found that were I used it to cover the treated lumber on my steps to my deck. I live in a very high fire danger zone so I'm glad I have fiber cement. I"ve seen LP smart side taking off in this area. I think its popular because it's lighter, stronger during handling and can be sawn or drilled with conventional tools. I used specific saw blades including saber saw blades and Rotozip ceramic bits as well as my diamond blade in my angle grinder. I put pieces of 30# felt under the joints lapping onto the course below. Ripping 10' sheets for the soffits was hard on my table saw. In fact it toasted the motor. Fortunately, It was a Rigid saw and HD replaced it no questions asked.
i’m an electrician in N Texas and we always went before the a/c and so glad we did. Electricians that go after, i tend to see they run wires over the duct work. I know it’s wrong and anyone working in attic later on could possibly trip on wires since wires are not laying on top of ceiling joist
I put beveled siding on my 16 ft walls, on my shop out back, almost 20 yrs ago, cut them myself on my sawmill, red cedar on the back, Cypress on the front. Holding up great.
What about metal siding?
Metal gets my vote 👍
Just do vinyl, it's final.
@@augustreil No way Jose.It's plastic so it wil eventually disintegrate from UV radiation.
@@stlkngyomom, I have a rental with 35yr old vinyl, no disintegration yet, so...
@@stlkngyomom Telephone cables hanging up on poles are made of plastic too, and they don't disintegrate from UV radiation.
What do you think of aluminium siding compared to these options?
The hardy board 4 X 8 ft sheet for siding, or wood you recommend lapsing to try to insure no rev gaping?
Yes, steel siding such as the True Cedar steel siding. That is what im about to put on my new house build here in Alabama? Your thoughts? Thanks Matt
What silica protections are you using for workers with fiber cement? Even with dust collection there is a lot of dust left over on the siding in addition to what is missed by the saw. How easy is it or replace a damaged piece? They will get damaged.
I used Cape Cod repainted pine lap siding made in Nova Scotia. EXCELLENT.
Neighbors are jealous.
Curious what Matt’s opinion is on mortarless masonry siding like Versetta Stone or Nova Brick that goes up like siding with nails/screws
That wood siding makes great decking fascia board!
In Texas that’s how it is. The framer paints and roofs and tiles . The landscape guy drywall’s and does plumbing
I’m building in the pacific nw, and going with printed tin siding, and tin trim around windows and doors. My goal is long term moisture resistance and low maintenance. Am I making the right choice?
Cool vid as usual.
I believe hardy still expands and contracts with temperature. I've done some pretty intense testing on it. Including freeze/thaw cycles and comparing the force to make it snap or break while wet.
My biggest concern is a hardy panel eventually falling off the screws with too many wet freeze/thaw cycles.
I wish they made it more dense. I worry about its durability when it's wet.
If you had done extensive testing, wouldn't you know for sure if it expands and contracts? Also, why are you screwing Hardie board?
"Will my concrete porch swell move or change with that water absorption? No"
Ever see northern porch concrete that is exposed to water and then freeze / thaw cycles?
Correct day man... Austin TX may not have freeze thaw but the North Central, Midwest, and Northeast regions absolutely do, and a test for those areas is putting the samples from the bucket (not a real world application btw) in a freezer and seeing the effects of frozen moisture expansion on the product. game changer.
No kidding.. let’s just totally forget that the majority of North America experiences freeze thaw cycles. I wonder how much hardie pays for him to “love” it so much, because Personally, I hate that crap
@@ericgillhouse4923 Thank you for this. It made me wonder why I hadn't seen such a product in use in Michigan. Not that I want to use vinyl. But there (should) never be a case where your siding is wet with no paint on it for 2 days straight!
And what I have seen is a 3/16" gap required
is fiber cement nailed and what kind of furring would you use behind fiber for drying.
Matt how do you feel about metal siding, like Edco metal siding?
Hi. What do you think about aluminum (wood look) siding?
I would be glad to put free Hardie plank on my house like Matt too. Best siding in the world when free.
The IRS will want it's share of the free product Matt receives. Free isn't free when you have to pay tax on the income.
James Gleason So true
Will the fiber cement be good in colder climates or does hold water long enough where freeze thaw will crack it
Don’t care about siding but love watch Matt. 😃
Hey Matt, we where looking at doing concrete log siding. Do you have any experience with this product?
I really like your channel and your dedication to building science and technology. I am retired now but spent my entire working life engaged in the architectural side of things in Australia where I specialized in building technology. I find the techniques that you demonstrate to be extremely sound but quite different to the way we do things here. So much so that most of the materials that you demonstrate are simply not available here. The Zip system is a case in point - not only is not available here there is no local equivalent. I am pleased to say however that the products of James Hardie are most certainly available. James Hardie is an Australian company which expanded into the USA market. We don't use much siding (cladding) here for domestic construction as almost all new houses are brick veneer.
Richard Martin do you remember how James Hardie fought tooth and nail the claims of those dying of asbestosis?
@@rossmcleod7983 Yes Ross. It got enormous coverage here and certainly Hardie's name was very tarnished over the whole affair. They weren't the only ones of course but they were certainly the biggest. It ended up costing them multiple billions in compensation. In their defence, they have moved on from those days are are a major force in the industry throughout the world.
I encourage you to do a video where you burn that osb/engineered siding. I've thrown a few scraps into a fire and was shocked. The stuff ends up up combusting like a rocket engine.
And probably emits dangerous gasses from the adhesives used to make the boards.
I've heard anecdotal evidence from fire fighters that houses built with OSB burn faster than those with plywood.
The engineered wood siding is supposed to be touched up with paint on the cut ends. I suppose it still displays a worst case scenario when the paint has been chipped and the product is exposed to water..
Also, there is a colour matched aluminium clip option that some manufacturers offer to mitigate the need to caulk the gapped joints.
If you go LP smartside, get the Diamond Kote product. Long lasting paint already on it. And you don't have to use the butt joints. They have a color matched metal piece to cover the front and back. If you use their calking at the very ends, it is much better than regular calk. Where I live, fire isn't an issue. But hail is. And from what I've seen, the LP Smartside handles hail better than JH. I'm not sure if he had LP in that bucket, but from other YT videos, LP doesn't swell when in water.
Can you do a video on the right sequencing of a job? I know it won't be the most entertaining but could be very informative.
Stucco seems to solve all of these problems. You can easily seal all penetrations and then stucco. The synthetic kinds don't even need to be painted so it's less maintenance. However, I'm from AZ and that's how we do it here so im not sure how well it holds up in really harsh environments.
One day I'm going to sell all my rentals and hope that Matt lets me hire him to build my dream home
Don’t forget to hire Steve Baczek as your architect!
But I also agree, Matt may not be the best choice for a remodel!
Dennis Pope He said “build my dream home”, not remodel.
With unlimited budget, Matt might be a really good chooce.
Looking forward to that call Kevin! You e got my number Buddy. It’s going to be an amazing family house!
Lol
Matt charges $400-$700 per square foot. Your 3,000 square foot dream home will cost $1.2 million to $2.1 million plus land, plus landscaping, plus furniture. And it will be worth much less on day 1. Oh and figure $2k per month for property taxes depending on where you are. More in Texas.
I installed some hardi-panel 10 years ago on a house as skirting for a manufactured home, and plank siding above it to about 3' off the ground. 10 years later it's cracking, brittle and needs replacing. I re-sided this house recently w/ LP smartside and it is pretty good. I had one sheet sided 10 years ago by a bathroom where the old T-11 was rotten w/ LP smartside siding and it's held up quite well. zero rot. I will be doing all LP smartside going forward. Hardie is hard on tools and is too brittle.
One problem I have experienced with Hardie siding is that the paint can bubble if water gets on the back, because it soaks through and releases the paint from the surface. Also it is very brittle and very hard to repair without damaging surrounding pieces.
Have you checked out "Everlast" vinyl siding. It has the benefits of fiber cement board with the vinyl siding installation benefits. Would like to see you include it in a comparison with the rest.
Just had a siding contractor try to use Medium Density Fiber Board on my house repair. I stopped him before he could start and demanded he use James Hardie Fiber Cement Board like I asked for in the bid. I would have fired him on the spot but he already had my house opened up and rain was soon approaching. After the job was done, I had him turn in the produce receipts to find out he used Hardie Shower Backer Board for tile work. Clamed he had 17 years of experience.....of doing it wrong.
All good points! One thing I would change... It is very time consuming to put the siding on after the other trades have finished. I find it is better to talk to the other trades about how to make proper penetrations and then ego back after them and reseal the way I know if will stay sealed.
Matt, how does it perform in a tornado? If you can compare it to other siding and offer insight relative to debris protection in high winds. Thank you.
I'm convinced this house will be nothing but exterior walls and insulation.
Hahahaha
He's waiting for a company to sponsor the drywall (or whatever stud covering) so he can do it for free, and push their products to his channel.
I don’t build anything. I don’t plan on building anything yet I can’t help but watch these videos. Lol. Very entertaining.
Matt, after framing is sheathing a code requirement? I'm seeing home built without sheathing and going straight to vapor wrap, exterior insulation and stucco.
Depends on the state. Some places require it for sheer strength, others dont.
I'm in a TX windstorm county so it is mandatory. I don't think I would build a house without it though.
Although in general I would agree that there is a proper sequence in the trade scheduling, it is also important that the trades are using the correct tools for the work. At the. Start, you were pointing out various inconsistencies. These seemed to be due to the siding being installed after the other roughing. EG : the cutouts in the siding appeared to be from the siding person trying to “fit” the siding around the electrical box and the pipe. As opposed to the plumbing contractor being able to use an appropriate sized hole saw to Center the pipe so a minimal amount of caulking would be required. The same goes for the electrical box. If the siding is installed first, the electrical box can be centered in the siding plank and not near the top making caulking and sealing easier especially with the use of a detail vibrational saw to cut through the siding, then cut the air gap layer in an x pattern and finally cut the sheathing. Most of the problems comes with developers and general contractors insisting on speed rather than quality. As to which siding is best, this must be considered from the basic location of the building site. What major conditions need to be addressed to build a house. That can last for generations? Do you need to address Earthquakes, Tornadoes, Hurricanes, Floods. Wildfires?
A general contractor should want to be the builder that have their houses standing after a serious emergency hits the area. An. Example is while in your location, it is rare for you to have to address a serious tornado, the use of single brick and fibrous cement siding will do nothing to stop flying debris from punching through a wall.
I like using tamlan metal behind the butt joints on hardie!
Matt. I really want to see your flashing at brick to vinyl transitions. Will you be using Water table?
On engineered wood siding, every cut end is suppose to be sealed with primer. You should seal it, then test it...i bet you have a different result. This is even mentioned in the LP Smartside installation guide. Assuming that was LP Smartside?
I replaced my pressboard siding with James Hardie about 10 years ago. Panels, not the boards. Good stuff.
I am also a big believer of concrete board and hardi cement. I used it in place of drywall inside of Necedah Tower to fireproof the room and on the outside I used concrete board as well. I use morter with additional portland cement to fill edges nails. I did not know it holds paint well. Does the plain concrete board and the mortar also hold paint well?, I have not painted anything yet. I did paint the ceiling white in my house and it is fine but what about outside?
Love the vlogs about your reno. we just bought a 1920 home, it was partially redone by a flipper, but much was left undone. I will be doing much of the work to improve the building while my family is in place. not ideal, I know, but I'm an out of work theater/ rock'n roll technician, so I got time, and I have some carpentry skills.
That said, I can't afford a top flight crew, the most premium materials, or what have you in EVERY ASPECT of my reno, but if you could talk to the ambitious DIYer from time to time about when to spend a little more and where to hire things out, I'd appreciate it a bundle.
Great promo for hardie lol yes it's a good product and looks great if installed correctly but it's a nasty job
What is your opinion on aircrete. ?