MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo
Nice "man up" job, admitting your mistakes. It would have been really easy to bury most of those mistakes and only the keenest of viewers would have noticed. I'm very impressed with the lengths you go to. You really want to teach others to make them better builders.
I've watched quite a few videos from Matt & other builders. And while I do find them knowledgeable, it juts hit me how many chemicals go into modern construction. Wether it be waterproofing, weather sealing etc. And it makes me wonder if there is a better way to build without so many chemicals. I mean I know some iccf claim to be eco due to the recycling of eps. Then on the other spectrum there's cob and stabilize earth etc. Makes me think carefully about what I want for my family in our home build.
Buy in. Getting the entire crew. every guy... even the guys with the broom, to really care, to be emotionally and intellectually involved and care about every detail- is the key. I have no idea how to accomplish it but in my opinion that would be the key!
re: Header Heights - No worries Matt. I would leave them as they are. The residences I design are typically 9’-0”, and often 10’-0”, at the 1st floor. So, it’s not too uncommon to have 18”+ of wall above headers (unless I’m spec’ing tall transoms). Here’s my suggestion... When you trim the interior, spec generously-sized flat trim boards, such as: 1x8 baseboard* 1x4 side casing 1x6 head casing 1x6/8 trim board at location of crown molding... to replace crown molding or use in conjunction with a crown (or cove) molding, which is then set against the face of trim board. - For ex, a cove molding scaled to 2/3 or 1/3 the height of trim board. * 1x8+ baseboards also allow for location of outlets within them... a clean look. These trim boards give purpose to the amount of wall space above headers. And, they add character. You can choose to keep things simple, for a more contemporary look. - For ex, I’ll spec a 1x8 baseboard, and only call for a chamfer along the top outside corner to mitigate dust collection. - I’ve even used a flat piece of trim in place of crown or cove molding... set at angle to the face of the 1x6/8 trim board. Just chamfer the lower inside corner to butt against the trim board, and then decide how you want the top of this trim piece to meet the ceiling. I’ve rambled too long. Apologies. If you’d like a few example sketches, send me an email: chadcooper3927@gmail.com I really enjoy your posts. They help me keep pace with new products... especially insulation, and applications.
Chad Cooper, I agree. Not worth it from my perspective. Trim choices can help it look better if it bothers you. This is perhaps a good time to get together (virtually) with your interior designer. They can possibly do walkthroughs with the different windows and different interior trim to help you with your decision.
If you are worried about a large expanse of space between the high ceiling and windows that could be taller but are not taller, do this: install a "plate rail" along the wall above the windows. Display decorative plates. It works. A more general comment: Many homes have "great rooms", that is, a family room with a 1.5 story cathedral ceiling. It's a great concept, but if you look at a number of homes with a critical eye, you will notice one thing: Life in the room __stops__ at a certain height. That is, furniture, bookcases, paintings are all only a maximum of six or seven feet tall, and then it's this big expanse of blank wall space between the ceiling and down where life starts. A good designer can work to reduce this. Three ideas: (1) a palladian window on an exterior wall with a peak, (2) continuing the brickwork up to the ceiling on an interior wall, (3) extra tall bookcases lining another wall. If you need a photo, ping me (I'm a homeowner, not a designer, so it will be amateur). Otherwise, thanks for sharing. I'm wincing along with you, but I'll never knock you. Cheers!
when i was a kid (12-16) i built a Model A and one of the Model A owners in the club would always say "you don't know shit" well one day I had enough and said "you can't screw anything up if you never do anything". this guy had just bought a finished Model A, but read every book there was to read as I built one from the ground up
my dad worked for a cobbler many years ago. The cobbler told him, "If you ever get to where you aren't making any mistakes at all, let me know and I will give you your final pay. You don't make any mistakes when you don't do the work, and I need someone willing to work and learn."
Love when you post videos of your mistakes. It's great to know that even a builder with your experience still has a mistake from time to time. That's part of building and remodeling...identifying mistakes early on and hashing out a plan to correct them. Builders have to be great problem-solvers above nearly anything else. We've all made our fair share of mistakes, but thank you for making videos of yours so that we can all learn from it and hopefully avoid similar issues on our jobs. Great job on your house so far! It's looking great and I've enjoyed following your video series as you build it and explain the build science behind your plans.
I think keeping the 6'8" header is important because it aligns with the height of the other windows. If you raise it, the door will stick out and look like a mistake imho. I really appreciate your willingness to share these mistakes - that's where learning happens!
I have 9 foot ceilings and a 5 panel slider at 6'8. It actually looks perfectly balanced with the room. I wouldn't incur the cost or headache of changing it. Plus, you'll be the only one who will worry about it. Thanks for the great video.
I have only seen 3 of your videos before. I think you pointing out what others do wrong and then show how you make mistakes as well is quite classy. I like how you ask for ideas and comments. We all learn everyday. You gained a new subscriber. Good luck on your builds Matt
the Framer we used to use before he had a stroke once told me while I was on a jobsite he always puts his window headers as high as possible (basically directly under the top plate) then frames down to the window opening height, so should some one want to install taller windows/doors down the road there is no reframing required.
I would raise your header and add a transom window to lengthen your current windows and make it look better once finished. If left at 6'8" I find when the space is finished the windows look odd and squat. Just food for thought. BTW..Love your channel! Cheers
Leave the 6'8" height. With your overhangs, the amount of addition light would not be worth the cost and delay to me. I would suggest looking at a thicker casing and/or crown to utilize the additional space. You are just losing a view of the soffit from inside the house. On the outside of the house, do a soldier course of brick or another detail. I would also be hesitant about causing building delays due to the Coronavirus. We do not know what the manufacturer, delivery, etc may experience in delays from day to day. It only takes one person to test positive before the plant gets shutdown for deep cleaning. And then you never know how many people would be able to go back to work. Additionally, you don't know when things will slow down further on the build site. It could be something as small as an inspector's family member to get a fever to throw a wrench in the plans and timeline. I would suggest getting dried in as quick as possible. The job can stop at anytime and we are getting into rainy season.
Hocus Pocus I agree with what your saying about a soldier course of brick. It’ll address the space and really add to the view of the elevations. I’ve designed many commercial buildings and a lot of custom homes. Soldier course and Hering bone patterns in the elevations, to fill a space and dressing up a chimney, are really eye catching and add a lot to the house.
I can't find if you have a video detailing your secondary window flange waterproofing. I see in this video at 6:55 you built the windows out for insulation but curious how you finish that window detail. Looks like a fun window install.
Stick with 6'-8" you can do an architectural header to give the illusion of a taller window. I've got a production home with 10' ceilings and 6'-8" headers. It's okay.
This. Depends on kind of trim you plan to use but there are some nice craftsman style over door trim details you should consider. If you had 10 ft ceilings you can add a panel above the door that mimics the idea of a transom. (That wouldn’t work over your slider, but the craftsman treatment would)
@@PorterFuqua I don't agree with the 6'8 header on the slider door since people will be transitioning through it. And if you move that up, but don't move the others up then the top of the windows don't match with the top of the door, keeping that nice clean line. You could move the larger slider door one up and keep the others the same level if you're ok not having that clean line across the top. I bet the architect would def. want those to be the same line come across the house.
Sketch App I meant that a panel wouldn’t have a nice proportion if you made one to go over the whole width of a slider. I was talking about what to do to make 6’-8” appear taller with a 9’ ceiling. I think we are on the same page, don’t want to change the header around the room or elevation.
Aaron Dahl agreed. I have 10’ walls in my house to with 6’8 doors. It doesn’t bother me. My windows are 6’ tall to, so they extend well above the top of the doors with the header at 8’.
78yr old countyboy. Not a builder, but working to restore 2 story homestead house in Idaho. Has no foundation, no insulation, needs wiring updated and plumbing. Bumping out bank side wall for ground floor bed and bath with overhead garage from upper bench. Love your honest pointing out of oversight issues. Learn so much from your website
dude as a guy who does mostly interior stuff , this is fascinating! The stuff you're doing is crazy and I love ya for it. No suggestions cause I have no clue about this stuff but keep it going. Shout outs from Houston!
What a relief to see a builder own his mistakes and willing to share them to help others. That's how we all get better. That's definitely not my experience in the field so this is a real treat. Thanks Matt, you're a real stand-up guy! 👍
Keep the 6’ 8” headers. Perhaps some indirect lighting strips above the windows, sending light upward and bouncing light off the ceiling will add some unique and pleasant lighting.
Edge loss at the slab is significant. Why do you not run the exterior foam insulation down over the slab, to some minimum distance below grade? It is pretty easy to do a cladding change somewhere near grade, and use factory finish metal to cover the foam that covers the slab edge, down to below grade. We have done this for years, on full basements. Then you have the choice of using or not using the thermal mass of the slab for interior environmental control. Strikes me as odd to do the "Perfect Wall" at the wall/ roof interface, and completely stop the "Perfect Envelope" at the top of an above-grade slab. I would also be thinking along the lines of a sealant bead at the wood sill/ concrete interface, and then use a membrane material over the joint, to insure a permanent seal (better able to accommodate shrinkage/ movement in the different materials being joined).
I thought the big mistake was having a budget on your own house... I picked up a house 25 years ago that had good bones (really, not like the original house in this series!) but needed a lot of TLC. I had a lot of people ask me what my budget was for the work. I told them I had no budget. It will cost what it costs as I discover problems, change my mind, and as tastes change. Here I am 25 years in and I recently ripped out the half of the interior I hadn't ripped out previously to "fix" things that I thought could be better after living in it for 25 years. In the end I'll have completely gutted the house inside and out, replaced about 60 linear feet of exterior walls, and made some floor plan changes. I have no idea what I've spent... and don't really care! My house is one of my hobbies as well as a place to live and raise my family. My only goal is that it's "done" before I die so my sons aren't left having to finish it. ;~)
Matt I love these videos about mistakes. It's truly honorable to share your mistakes. Your corrections are super helpful and so are the comments from all the folks here! I think you are raising the building standards across the country and I hope more builders look to you and the Build Show network of builders/architects to learn best practices. Truly love this channel and I'm not even a builder!
Really enjoyed this video. I hate how perfect other companies and RUclips channels pretend their company to be so that they can look like the best. Real Honest video.
Matt, I had an 8ft double door that I reduced to 6'8" plus a transom. The original door was blasted by direct sunlight in a non-overhang area of the house on the back patio which saw a lot of traffic and wore out fast. With taller ceilings make sure that you can move taller/wider furniture, countertops and Christmas trees through them easily.
I would redo it Matt. Your a high end builder and this is your show case. If you your like me, every time you will be in that room you will have regrets.
Matt, love your honesty & humility. Your willingness to help us all learn from your mistakes & insight is becoming a rare thing these days.. Thanks, ChrisB (Auckland, NZ)
So nice to see someone who admits his mistakes. S%@t happens. Too many people try to make out they are perfect. Great to see an honest man for a change.
I have three "windows to nowhere" in my house. I also have a door to nowhere. Two of the windows are framed for a door that will be installed at a later date as I am building myself in stages. One window is completely buried in the wall and will be opened up this year and a stained glass window will go in, and lastly a door is framed in for a future addition. I'll be taking one of the widows out this spring and replacing it with a door to the flat roof over the addition I built last year. I am going to put a Bison Pedestal deck on top of that when time and money allow 😊
Thanks for your humility. When considering header height I have always found it helpful to take into account the hight of the people that will occupy the space. The vertically challenged will love you for it.
I'd leave the headers, but next time reverse the header with the jacks so that the header is tight to the top plates. That way its an "easy" fix to move them up or down without touching the header. I've changed way too many R.O.'s because of an architects "vision".
This was one of my favorite parts of reviewing plans from our architects. I was a residential/light commercial carpenter for over ten years before getting my engineering degree and working as an estimator/ project planner. The prettiest plan is a fail if it cannot be build right. It is hard for non-conduction designers to think in three dimensions rather than plan view 2D.
Credit to you for owning up to your mistakes and making use of them to share the learning with all of us. I know as well as anybody that those mistakes can be so painful to experience - whether you've overlooked something or your helpers have misread your instructions. Such value in making use of those mistakes. You handled the joint sealer mess up admirably.
New Header Heights: On our apartment builds 4 years ago we started placing the header right under the top plate with cripples to window height. This allows the option that you are confronted with today. We Moved to 9' walls 6 years ago for a huge improvement. Be Blessed.
I think it is amazing that you are humble enough to admit that even on your own build how complicated it is to get things done right. Probably more so on custom homes with specialized products. Pretty tough to manage all the various trades if out of the norm
Hmmm. "Been there, done that". As to the lower header height.... glass/light & view kinda trumps anything. I'd do the math on labor re-work and new units and ponder if you can tolerate the hit to order taller windows and the big slider. Maybe you can sell the un-installed units and capture a few bucks.
I appreciate your candor in regard to mistakes made and the lessons that can be learned by other peoples mistakes (invaluable), no one is perfect. But what is important is the formulation of a solution, the knowledge gained, and not the rant of the blame game.
Hey Matt - great video. I've been a licensed contractor for almost 25 yrs and have seen (and made!) every manner of mistake. Thx for letting everyone know mistakes happen to everyone.
@@Davey768 too many mistakes means you're either inexperienced or the job is not a good fit. For example, I couldn't serve tables to save my life. I spent years trying, even my manager couldn't understand why I sucked so bad. I finally left the restaurant business, got a job turning wrenches and was one of the best, still made mistakes but within reason.
Loved the video.....nice to know that even professionals can make mistakes (you seem like a really humble & good guy!) A little late for a comment on "Mistake #5" 8' vs 9' ceiling.....We had a similar experience building our house in Japan.....I "called an audible" and installed additional fixed windows above.....although the architect and builders both said that it was not necessary, I re-framed the section myself and installed 4 custom windows myself.....What a difference in the general feeling and of course the natural lighting....!
It would be great to do some videos with the building inspector, seeing what they are looking for and verifying the work is done correctly and to code.
@@iwasabigdeel7895 perhaps in your city. I was a B.I. for 3.5 years and tried very hard to present a cheerful persona. Our approach: it doesn't matter who is right or who is wrong. What matters is the work is compliant with the code!
Don't worry about the windows. I live in a very small house that has 9 foot ceilings. We put in new windows, we did reduce the size of them because they were so close to the floor but we didn't raise them. we have a gap of 22 inches from finished ceiling to finished window opening. My wife made nice window treatments so we can put in curtains or blinds or rollers, they don't look bad at all. Yeah, more is better but they are okay. lose some of the OCD about your inside look of the windows, they are are just fine. thank you for your videos Matt. I'm learning so much from you.. i just hope that when I work on my roof I learn the lessons that you found. thank you for sharing mistakes.. we have those in great abundance and very few channels share mistakes and how to work around them, that is what most building and remodeling is about.. working through mistakes or missing things early enough. we need you to share those more.
I agree. The 9' ceilings I have seen had standard height doors. My current home has 10' ceilings downstairs with taller doors and transoms above the windows. The 2nd floor has 9' ceiling with standard doors and no transoms.
Glad to see professionals like you make mistakes too. Makes me not feel as bad with my silo house build. I literally came up with a better way to install my windows after I edited and published a video on it . You the man still when it comes to building technology 👍🏼.
Thank you for posting this cause I think it's better than most of the videos where I feel like I'm being sold a product. It takes great humility to post this but showing the rest of us how to overcome and prevail is so huge in times like this and thank you so much
So, a question for your main level header heights: You raised the ceiling height to 9', and you said your header heights are 6'8"... but then you said you are insulating and raising the subfloor. Was this subfloor thickness accounted for in the original header placement? if not, they have to raise up anyways
That was the first question I had as soon as he introduced his mistake. Forget about whether 6'8" will look well with 9' ceiling, the real question is, since I'm raising the floor, when do the schedule the framer to raise the headers?
I think when he said "I changed them from 8' to 9' ceiling height..." he may have been saying it was a field adjustment during framing. There may not have been a lot of thought put into it aside from adjusting the stringers. THe insulated floor idea probably came about in the process, but again, wasn't thoroughly thought out. So the opening layouts likely didn't say AFF. I'm assuming that's why he's embarrassed because as a pro he knows not to proceed without doing the homework. Depending on the room layout, I'd make a step down (3' x Width) and use a flooring that helps it stand out. Maybe frame in a couple 2x6 knee walls on the ends to help with the occasional stumble. Put an oversized sill top on them for setting items when you need to free up your hands. Idk
Matt, I just stumbled upon your page, bc (believe it or not) I forgot how to cut a bird mouth in rafters. I been a Navy Chief and Seabee Builder for 25 years, and haven’t done any actual building since 2010. I want to echo what everyone else is saying, good job at admitting your mistakes. Most people just point the finger elsewhere. I recently have made my own mistake on my parents place, and now Im scrambling to figure out what to do. Anyhow, good job, and I will keep an eye on your videos. Its always good to have a refresher for someone like me, who has been out of the game for so long. And one more thing, it’s nice to know you are in Austin. I spent 10 years in Waco.
Just found your channel- love it and the format. You show problems, but also give very direct & practical solutions. Something missing in so many of these. I also like your very clear, enunciated explanations. As far as the headers go (though it's by far too late now)- I would have picked a room or two where taller windows (or transoms) made sense and spent the money to get taller windows. It doesn't have to be everywhere, just the spaces I spend the most time in where it would drive me to constantly question "not doing it" over the years. I've found that in time, I forget exactly how much I spent, but the constant reminder of where I skimped is maddening.
Those new 3M Post-It Notes are the best. I used them on those big contractor trash bags so I knew what was going to recycling, what to trash, what to thrift stores. (I was cleaning out a cluttered house for a customer.)
Problem solving is for sure part of building i have been doing its since 1986. Super nice looking framing Matt you and your guys keep up the hard work you do.
I'd leave the window and door headers at 6'8". I did the same thing on my house and it looks decent. Besides, raising the headers would increase the window sizes and give you more low insulation value glass surface.
Matt, My hat's off to you for showing that you are just like the rest of us who mistakes! I still find it helpful to have an eraser on my pencil! Keep up the great "remodel" and other videos. Best wishes and stay healthy!
Re: header/windows - I think leave the windows how they are with the 9’ header. I imagine changing it would not have much of an impact either visually, nor in terms of increased light. So it’s probably not worth the added cost. If you were to make a change, I think putting a 3rd window centered inbetween the other two windows would make more of an impact and probably cheaper. However, not knowing your kitchen layout, I assume that may not be an easy option either as it may affect cabinet or appliance layout.
People like to watch Matt because he’s always honest. Do you ever notice how when people make videos especially building shows that everyone tears them up in the comments talking about how stupid everything they did is? When you scroll down on Matt’s videos and look at the comments everyone’s like oh it’s OK buddy. Everyone makes mistakes. His humble heart is one reason why people watch him. You can’t be mad at a guy who tells you the truth even when it hurts.
You must have at least one window in each bedroom that complies with the Emergency and Escape and Rescue code per 2018 IRC Section 310.1 - Your architect should know this stuff. The required window must have a net clear opening height of 24" and a net clear opening width of 20" and also must not be less than 5.7 square feet except for grade-level windows which are only required to be a minimum of 5.0 Square Feet. From what I saw in the video it doesn't look like any of those window sizes will comply with this part of the code. Sorry if this seems trivial to anyone. I'm a city building inspector and this is something we watch for all the time. It's part of what we call fire, life, and safety compliance.
keep the 6'8" headers in the back. Once its finished, nobody will even notice. It'll be fine. It'll keep you humble. See it as your "Amish" mark. When the Amish make furniture, They do it so perfectlythat they turn it over and mar it with a hammer ...because ONLY God is perfect.
@@ebog4841 Thats what Ive been told. I may have Amish and Mennonites mixed up as paper burn said below. We have both here in Tennessee that make furniture. They do awesome work for sure.
Great problem solving video. Remember, It's not a 'mistake' until you do it again, it's 'learning' the first time!! Keep up the great work and thanks for all this great content on ALL your sites!!
“Design is a process”. I’m an architect and my daughter always reminds me that I said that to her a long time ago on one of her house projects. It continues after you start on site. However the more you draw of the house in all sorts of cross sections furniture plans and details at the design stage the less these mistakes will happen. So pay your architecting a decent fee so that he can do that and make sure he does. And have what we call Play-Dough in your budget so that you can continue to make changes when you see the building on site. In the instance of your house Matt, the room on plan is obviously not going to fit a bed in the configurations it was if you don’t want the bed under the window. However from my experience in my house which I bought and didn’t design, in our bedroom we ended up with a bed head under a window and it’s fine with modern glass we don’t get a downdraught and actually we are thankful that we get ventilation very close to us in the hot parts of the summer and the stuffy the parts of the winter so you could actually have joined the three windows together as one and had it with the bed head underneath. Anyway I absolutely love your videos. We don’t do much site built timber framing in the UK, and all the techniques of waterproofing and the materials used are quite new to us. unfortunately we can’t get many of them here so we have to improvise with other things but a lot of the principles you describe are rock-solid.
Great Problem Solving! I would make the change on the Garage door and leave the windows. Also on the window adjustments that you did to make more room for the flashing detail, Many times on doing the roofing on similar situations with less than 4" make it more difficult to seal. It is good to see your concern in that area!
the funniest part of this video is when you had the audacity to say your three sons will be sharing a room, and when your daughter leaves you’ll take her room as an office. doesn’t matter how friendly you are with siblings, every now and then you want alone time.
Matt, great info. I would add a small window above each exterior door/window. I have seen it on several plans, and to me, it makes perfect sense for a bit of extra light radiating through out the house, even if the blinds are closed. I might can find you a link if you're interested.
Lol “It’s only a mistake if it’s catastrophic” -Elon Musk I remember always feeling like I wanted to quit on my way home after days when I made $3,000+ mistakes when I first began-I’m a framer myself, I’ve gotten over that but nevertheless they really do suck
@@steveatx8295 Typically 10% to 20%. We just finished remodeling our church educational building. The building had not been touched (except paint and carpet) in close to 50 years. Lots of unknowns and the things we did know weren't good. We had a 30% total contingency and spent every last bit. (I was not the contractor.) Several years ago I built a MIL/Guesthouse on the site of a home I built many years before. I knew the customer, the site and the plan well. I used a 7% contingency and we finished at around 5%. It really depends on the job, how complex, finish level, and confidence level.
It is cliche to say “it depends” but it’s so true. I can’t add 10-20% on a track home but on a custom home with a very high risk and degree of difficulty-atleast 10%, it’s necessary. Remodels are also a different ball game, there is always an unseen thing. Especially when dealing with structural tie-in and changes of the existing one. And in that case it’s not just carpentry errors but planning errors. I wouldn’t do a remodel with less than 15% and maybe as high as 40%. For example I’ve done jobs where we take out all the supporting walls of a building and replace / raise them. There are a lot of contingent factors there compared to say a simple load-bearing wall removal.
Excellent! Watching "mistakes" is a lot more helpful than trying to get it all out of a book or following only one way of doing things which I see a lot. In this age of fast video, I would document all this and save it all for review...only keep reviewing the top major mistakes at each stage of the build. Of course, that would take a lot of effort, but you could hire a college kid to put it all together....heck, I think you've hit it on the head already. Big lesson: keep an open mind and always be learning.
My wife, the interior designer, said that if you want to utilize the widows you have, you could lower the existing windows, and add a narrower transom window above.
Love the stair dormer and the dynamic quality of the room below. We have a house by David George, circa 1965, with 9' ceilings with a 1x10" stand-off facia that runs throughout the entire interior which now conceals led string lighting in some sections. That may be a solution to make sense of your window spacing too!
A possible idea for the windows in the back is a Valance. My family used to have a resort and the windows in the dinning room had them and we used the valances as shelves for decorations (holiday/seasonal and antiques because of our long history). You could also put lights below and above for things like low level lighting when watching movies, mood lighting, etc.
Love all your videos Matt! In regards to your window height dilemma, taking the cost of reframing, ordering a new door, etc. into an account, I say not worth it. I'm an interior designer and the trick that always fools the eye is to mount your window treatments as high as possible so if you're using drapes in your space (which always transform the space), the window height will be diminished
I love the honesty. Thank you for allowing us to learn from your mistakes. As far as the header, I would say it is not a big deal. Maybe use a bigger trim/crown detail to close the gap and give the illusion of height.
Matt: At the beginning of this series, you mentioned you were going to do a ZIP 1.5 (instead of 2.0) with limited use of liquid flashing on the OSB. Why aren't you using ZIP System Liquid Flash for the OSB/foundation interface? Also, why are you using wood extensions around your windows instead of the ThermaBuck product? Thanks!
@@stewmeat9261 I'm sure its because Matt is sponsored by both companies. Fast Flash is way better stuff than the zip liquid flash, however, my rep has told me not to mix and match because Huber does not warranty the system that way. Fast Flash is probably a better install and will get him the same results the problem is for us normal builders you're out on the warranty.
Matt, Congrats on making such a video. It seems most people concentrate on the great ideas and great results and to demonstrate the mistakes makes you 10 feet tall. I actually think your whole crew should have a segment on this. Architects as well. It makes you all human.
I like to put headers at the very top of the wall and then frame down to the rough openings. It's much easier to make changes. That said, I would move your existing windows down and order clerestory windows to go above them.
@@tsmall07 As an attic insulator with a RUclips channel I value good insulation in a new home. I'm sure Matt would value a good attic insulation installation.
Bring headers all the way up and orders top transom windows. You should be able to see elevations on exterior and interior to get a better picture of house. If it's your house, only you will live with it. Make the changes, if you order new windows either pay the restocking fee or save them and squeeze them in on next project. 😁 Keep up the good work.
"What happens when you build your own house is you keep making changes and the costs go up" - Paraphrased Matt Risinger quote. Leave the kitchen and family room windows alone. Go with the plan (another paraphrased Matt quote I think).
It seems like you can never stop learning, especially when other builders review their work calling out the good and bad. No matter how much thought goes into the project, something mew always comes along. Trouble shooting and corrections are rarely talked about, but truly an important part of every builders skill set. Header height, leave them as is, gonna look great! Great work Matt, looks great. How are those Jeld Wen windows working? How about a review. Thank You madman.
Change the door heights. You'll soon forget the financial pain but long remember the mistake if you don't. Surprised JenWeld won't do you a solid and take 'em back - those have to be fairly common sizes. I wouldn't consider these big mistakes - you pivoted a massive amount from a small remodel to a new-build - issues bound to happen because you really needed months to get the details right that you didn't have. The sill-to-foundation detail was more a pita than a problem. A few man-hours and a few tubes of Contega isn't the end of the world - $500 perhaps? Fwiw, I'm not impressed with Contega HF - the stuff shrinks when cured (maybe 30-50%?) and loses quite a bit of it's tackiness. Surprisingly, Green Glue Compound (not Green Glue Sealant) really works well as an always-flexible acoustic sealant - I'd say it is the equivalent to Tremco's black death in long-term stickiness, but a much more eco-friendly material. And it's 1/3rd the price and a lot more readily available. All my interior air sealing will be with Green Glue Compound
Hi Matt. Stick with the headers as they are. I’m in a new home with 9’ ceilings and it has 6’8” doors and windows. This let us save money on the drapes and it looks great.
The 6'8 feels a bit cookie cutter for me, being a house you a builder live in I would 100% get it fixed if you can afford it and if it's what you want. If you weren't a builder I'd say keep it and save the money
We had the same window issue when we went with 9' ceilings. We added fixed transom windows above the existing windows. Some reframing was required but they look great and let in lots of light. Downside is that if you want to block that light it makes window covering a little more problematic (but not insurmountable).
Matt nice build, my construction trades teacher always said the "best carpenter is the one that knows how to fix his Own mistakes" it appears that you have done a wonderful job addressing the challenges in your build
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Admitting your mistakes is one of the reasons why I respect and value your opinion.
To be a good teacher, you must teach how to learn. Admitting failure is the first step in true understanding
Absolutely
Same
MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo
Nice "man up" job, admitting your mistakes. It would have been really easy to bury most of those mistakes and only the keenest of viewers would have noticed. I'm very impressed with the lengths you go to. You really want to teach others to make them better builders.
I've watched quite a few videos from Matt & other builders. And while I do find them knowledgeable, it juts hit me how many chemicals go into modern construction. Wether it be waterproofing, weather sealing etc. And it makes me wonder if there is a better way to build without so many chemicals. I mean I know some iccf claim to be eco due to the recycling of eps. Then on the other spectrum there's cob and stabilize earth etc. Makes me think carefully about what I want for my family in our home build.
Buy in. Getting the entire crew. every guy... even the guys with the broom, to really care, to be emotionally and intellectually involved and care about every detail- is the key.
I have no idea how to accomplish it but in my opinion that would be the key!
re: Header Heights -
No worries Matt. I would leave them as they are.
The residences I design are typically 9’-0”, and often 10’-0”, at the 1st floor. So, it’s not too uncommon to have 18”+ of wall above headers (unless I’m spec’ing tall transoms).
Here’s my suggestion...
When you trim the interior, spec generously-sized flat trim boards, such as:
1x8 baseboard*
1x4 side casing
1x6 head casing
1x6/8 trim board at location of crown molding... to replace crown molding or use in conjunction with a crown (or cove) molding, which is then set against the face of trim board.
- For ex, a cove molding scaled to 2/3 or 1/3 the height of trim board.
* 1x8+ baseboards also allow for location of outlets within them... a clean look.
These trim boards give purpose to the amount of wall space above headers. And, they add character.
You can choose to keep things simple, for a more contemporary look.
- For ex, I’ll spec a 1x8 baseboard, and only call for a chamfer along the top outside corner to mitigate dust collection.
- I’ve even used a flat piece of trim in place of crown or cove molding... set at angle to the face of the 1x6/8 trim board. Just chamfer the lower inside corner to butt against the trim board, and then decide how you want the top of this trim piece to meet the ceiling.
I’ve rambled too long. Apologies. If you’d like a few example sketches, send me an email: chadcooper3927@gmail.com
I really enjoy your posts. They help me keep pace with new products... especially insulation, and applications.
Chad Cooper, I agree. Not worth it from my perspective. Trim choices can help it look better if it bothers you. This is perhaps a good time to get together (virtually) with your interior designer. They can possibly do walkthroughs with the different windows and different interior trim to help you with your decision.
Amen. A nice trim detail can really help out this situation.
Agreed. Keep it - should have been that way from the get go. As Joe and Insider say - Trim will be the key here.
If you are worried about a large expanse of space between the high ceiling and windows that could be taller but are not taller, do this: install a "plate rail" along the wall above the windows. Display decorative plates. It works.
A more general comment: Many homes have "great rooms", that is, a family room with a 1.5 story cathedral ceiling. It's a great concept, but if you look at a number of homes with a critical eye, you will notice one thing: Life in the room __stops__ at a certain height. That is, furniture, bookcases, paintings are all only a maximum of six or seven feet tall, and then it's this big expanse of blank wall space between the ceiling and down where life starts. A good designer can work to reduce this. Three ideas: (1) a palladian window on an exterior wall with a peak, (2) continuing the brickwork up to the ceiling on an interior wall, (3) extra tall bookcases lining another wall. If you need a photo, ping me (I'm a homeowner, not a designer, so it will be amateur).
Otherwise, thanks for sharing. I'm wincing along with you, but I'll never knock you. Cheers!
I do carpentry, hard to understand what you wrote, but I bet you're right ..? Lol
The guy that never made a mistake, never made anything
Measure twice, cut once... then realize you designed wrong and do it again, lol.
when i was a kid (12-16) i built a Model A and one of the Model A owners in the club would always say "you don't know shit" well one day I had enough and said "you can't screw anything up if you never do anything". this guy had just bought a finished Model A, but read every book there was to read as I built one from the ground up
dumb mistake #6 - thinking 3 growing boys are going to be able to all sleep in the same room without any issues
Hands have never had a callous, just a paper cut a couple times
my dad worked for a cobbler many years ago. The cobbler told him, "If you ever get to where you aren't making any mistakes at all, let me know and I will give you your final pay. You don't make any mistakes when you don't do the work, and I need someone willing to work and learn."
Love when you post videos of your mistakes. It's great to know that even a builder with your experience still has a mistake from time to time. That's part of building and remodeling...identifying mistakes early on and hashing out a plan to correct them. Builders have to be great problem-solvers above nearly anything else. We've all made our fair share of mistakes, but thank you for making videos of yours so that we can all learn from it and hopefully avoid similar issues on our jobs.
Great job on your house so far! It's looking great and I've enjoyed following your video series as you build it and explain the build science behind your plans.
Very kind John thank you
I think keeping the 6'8" header is important because it aligns with the height of the other windows. If you raise it, the door will stick out and look like a mistake imho. I really appreciate your willingness to share these mistakes - that's where learning happens!
I have 9 foot ceilings and a 5 panel slider at 6'8. It actually looks perfectly balanced with the room. I wouldn't incur the cost or headache of changing it. Plus, you'll be the only one who will worry about it. Thanks for the great video.
I have only seen 3 of your videos before. I think you pointing out what others do wrong and then show how you make mistakes as well is quite classy. I like how you ask for ideas and comments. We all learn everyday. You gained a new subscriber. Good luck on your builds Matt
the Framer we used to use before he had a stroke once told me while I was on a jobsite he always puts his window headers as high as possible (basically directly under the top plate) then frames down to the window opening height, so should some one want to install taller windows/doors down the road there is no reframing required.
Smart!
Per the newer code, a header at the very top is now the preferred way. The way in the video now has to be de-rated in strength.
I’ve saw this several times, but it’s not the norm.
Makes way better sense to do it that way.
@@christophergruenwald5054 This is our norm on our builds for the last 4 years. Works Fine.
I would raise your header and add a transom window to lengthen your current windows and make it look better once finished. If left at 6'8" I find when the space is finished the windows look odd and squat. Just food for thought.
BTW..Love your channel! Cheers
As an attic insulator with a RUclips channel I value good insulation in a new home. I'm sure Matt would value a good attic insulation installation.
Leave the 6'8" height. With your overhangs, the amount of addition light would not be worth the cost and delay to me. I would suggest looking at a thicker casing and/or crown to utilize the additional space. You are just losing a view of the soffit from inside the house. On the outside of the house, do a soldier course of brick or another detail.
I would also be hesitant about causing building delays due to the Coronavirus. We do not know what the manufacturer, delivery, etc may experience in delays from day to day. It only takes one person to test positive before the plant gets shutdown for deep cleaning. And then you never know how many people would be able to go back to work. Additionally, you don't know when things will slow down further on the build site. It could be something as small as an inspector's family member to get a fever to throw a wrench in the plans and timeline. I would suggest getting dried in as quick as possible. The job can stop at anytime and we are getting into rainy season.
Hocus Pocus I agree with what your saying about a soldier course of brick. It’ll address the space and really add to the view of the elevations. I’ve designed many commercial buildings and a lot of custom homes. Soldier course and Hering bone patterns in the elevations, to fill a space and dressing up a chimney, are really eye catching and add a lot to the house.
What is a soldier course of brick. I am not a construction worker, but am trying to learn about this stuff for future purposes.
I can't find if you have a video detailing your secondary window flange waterproofing. I see in this video at 6:55 you built the windows out for insulation but curious how you finish that window detail. Looks like a fun window install.
As an attic insulator with a RUclips channel I value good insulation in a new home. I'm sure Matt would value a good attic insulation installation.
Stick with 6'-8" you can do an architectural header to give the illusion of a taller window. I've got a production home with 10' ceilings and 6'-8" headers. It's okay.
Aaron Dahl great idea
This. Depends on kind of trim you plan to use but there are some nice craftsman style over door trim details you should consider. If you had 10 ft ceilings you can add a panel above the door that mimics the idea of a transom. (That wouldn’t work over your slider, but the craftsman treatment would)
@@PorterFuqua I don't agree with the 6'8 header on the slider door since people will be transitioning through it. And if you move that up, but don't move the others up then the top of the windows don't match with the top of the door, keeping that nice clean line. You could move the larger slider door one up and keep the others the same level if you're ok not having that clean line across the top. I bet the architect would def. want those to be the same line come across the house.
Sketch App I meant that a panel wouldn’t have a nice proportion if you made one to go over the whole width of a slider. I was talking about what to do to make 6’-8” appear taller with a 9’ ceiling. I think we are on the same page, don’t want to change the header around the room or elevation.
Aaron Dahl agreed. I have 10’ walls in my house to with 6’8 doors. It doesn’t bother me. My windows are 6’ tall to, so they extend well above the top of the doors with the header at 8’.
78yr old countyboy. Not a builder, but working to restore 2 story homestead house in Idaho. Has no foundation, no insulation, needs wiring updated and plumbing. Bumping out bank side wall for ground floor bed and bath with overhead garage from upper bench. Love your honest pointing out of oversight issues. Learn so much from your website
dude as a guy who does mostly interior stuff , this is fascinating! The stuff you're doing is crazy and I love ya for it. No suggestions cause I have no clue about this stuff but keep it going. Shout outs from Houston!
What a relief to see a builder own his mistakes and willing to share them to help others. That's how we all get better. That's definitely not my experience in the field so this is a real treat. Thanks Matt, you're a real stand-up guy! 👍
Keep the 6’ 8” headers. Perhaps some indirect lighting strips above the windows, sending light upward and bouncing light off the ceiling will add some unique and pleasant lighting.
Edge loss at the slab is significant. Why do you not run the exterior foam insulation down over the slab, to some minimum distance below grade? It is pretty easy to do a cladding change somewhere near grade, and use factory finish metal to cover the foam that covers the slab edge, down to below grade. We have done this for years, on full basements. Then you have the choice of using or not using the thermal mass of the slab for interior environmental control. Strikes me as odd to do the "Perfect Wall" at the wall/ roof interface, and completely stop the "Perfect Envelope" at the top of an above-grade slab. I would also be thinking along the lines of a sealant bead at the wood sill/ concrete interface, and then use a membrane material over the joint, to insure a permanent seal (better able to accommodate shrinkage/ movement in the different materials being joined).
I thought the big mistake was having a budget on your own house... I picked up a house 25 years ago that had good bones (really, not like the original house in this series!) but needed a lot of TLC. I had a lot of people ask me what my budget was for the work. I told them I had no budget. It will cost what it costs as I discover problems, change my mind, and as tastes change. Here I am 25 years in and I recently ripped out the half of the interior I hadn't ripped out previously to "fix" things that I thought could be better after living in it for 25 years. In the end I'll have completely gutted the house inside and out, replaced about 60 linear feet of exterior walls, and made some floor plan changes. I have no idea what I've spent... and don't really care! My house is one of my hobbies as well as a place to live and raise my family. My only goal is that it's "done" before I die so my sons aren't left having to finish it. ;~)
Matt I love these videos about mistakes. It's truly honorable to share your mistakes. Your corrections are super helpful and so are the comments from all the folks here! I think you are raising the building standards across the country and I hope more builders look to you and the Build Show network of builders/architects to learn best practices. Truly love this channel and I'm not even a builder!
Really enjoyed this video. I hate how perfect other companies and RUclips channels pretend their company to be so that they can look like the best. Real
Honest video.
Matt,
I had an 8ft double door that I reduced to 6'8" plus a transom. The original door was blasted by direct sunlight in a non-overhang area of the house on the back patio which saw a lot of traffic and wore out fast.
With taller ceilings make sure that you can move taller/wider furniture, countertops and Christmas trees through them easily.
Rectangle transom windows in the extra space above your already ordered windows. Will make it look rich and planned all at once. Good luck
I would redo it Matt. Your a high end builder and this is your show case. If you your like me, every time you will be in that room you will have regrets.
Matt, love your honesty & humility. Your willingness to help us all learn from your mistakes & insight is becoming a rare thing these days.. Thanks, ChrisB (Auckland, NZ)
So nice to see someone who admits his mistakes. S%@t happens. Too many people try to make out they are perfect. Great to see an honest man for a change.
I have three "windows to nowhere" in my house. I also have a door to nowhere. Two of the windows are framed for a door that will be installed at a later date as I am building myself in stages. One window is completely buried in the wall and will be opened up this year and a stained glass window will go in, and lastly a door is framed in for a future addition. I'll be taking one of the widows out this spring and replacing it with a door to the flat roof over the addition I built last year. I am going to put a Bison Pedestal deck on top of that when time and money allow 😊
Thanks for your humility. When considering header height I have always found it helpful to take into account the hight of the people that will occupy the space. The vertically challenged will love you for it.
I'd leave the headers, but next time reverse the header with the jacks so that the header is tight to the top plates. That way its an "easy" fix to move them up or down without touching the header. I've changed way too many R.O.'s because of an architects "vision".
I do the same. Not all builders do it, but for me it's easier to frame and obviously easier to adjust if necessary 👍🏻
That's brilliant! This is the first I've ever heard of reversing the header and cripples. Why aren't more builders doing this?!
@@reubenjensen2433 - I honestly don't know, I can't see the advantage to not and it takes the same amount of time/effort.
This was one of my favorite parts of reviewing plans from our architects. I was a residential/light commercial carpenter for over ten years before getting my engineering degree and working as an estimator/ project planner.
The prettiest plan is a fail if it cannot be build right. It is hard for non-conduction designers to think in three dimensions rather than plan view 2D.
As someone who has just started a MASSIVE home renovation project, I’m loving the channel!
Credit to you for owning up to your mistakes and making use of them to share the learning with all of us. I know as well as anybody that those mistakes can be so painful to experience - whether you've overlooked something or your helpers have misread your instructions. Such value in making use of those mistakes. You handled the joint sealer mess up admirably.
New Header Heights: On our apartment builds 4 years ago we started placing the header right under the top plate with cripples to window height. This allows the option that you are confronted with today. We Moved to 9' walls 6 years ago for a huge improvement. Be Blessed.
I think it is amazing that you are humble enough to admit that even on your own build how complicated it is to get things done right. Probably more so on custom homes with specialized products. Pretty tough to manage all the various trades if out of the norm
Hmmm. "Been there, done that". As to the lower header height.... glass/light & view kinda trumps anything. I'd do the math on labor re-work and new units and ponder if you can tolerate the hit to order taller windows and the big slider. Maybe you can sell the un-installed units and capture a few bucks.
I appreciate your candor in regard to mistakes made and the lessons that can be learned by other peoples mistakes (invaluable), no one is perfect. But what is important is the formulation of a solution, the knowledge gained, and not the rant of the blame game.
The walls in my house are 10’. All doors and windows are at 6’8”. No problem in my mind.
Hey Matt - great video. I've been a licensed contractor for almost 25 yrs and have seen (and made!) every manner of mistake. Thx for letting everyone know mistakes happen to everyone.
In my old job we had a saying "if you never make mistakes you're not working."
У нас говорят,что лучше учиться на чужих ошибках.
Guess that makes me a hard worker!
@@Davey768 too many mistakes means you're either inexperienced or the job is not a good fit.
For example, I couldn't serve tables to save my life. I spent years trying, even my manager couldn't understand why I sucked so bad. I finally left the restaurant business, got a job turning wrenches and was one of the best, still made mistakes but within reason.
That was our motto when we worked in Chernobyl at the nuclear reactor plant
Loved the video.....nice to know that even professionals can make mistakes (you seem like a really humble & good guy!) A little late for a comment on "Mistake #5" 8' vs 9' ceiling.....We had a similar experience building our house in Japan.....I "called an audible" and installed additional fixed windows above.....although the architect and builders both said that it was not necessary, I re-framed the section myself and installed 4 custom windows myself.....What a difference in the general feeling and of course the natural lighting....!
It would be great to do some videos with the building inspector, seeing what they are looking for and verifying the work is done correctly and to code.
@@iwasabigdeel7895 perhaps in your city. I was a B.I. for 3.5 years and tried very hard to present a cheerful persona. Our approach: it doesn't matter who is right or who is wrong. What matters is the work is compliant with the code!
@@iwasabigdeel7895 I would think that if anyone knows good inspectors, it's Matt.
Don't worry about the windows. I live in a very small house that has 9 foot ceilings. We put in new windows, we did reduce the size of them because they were so close to the floor but we didn't raise them. we have a gap of 22 inches from finished ceiling to finished window opening. My wife made nice window treatments so we can put in curtains or blinds or rollers, they don't look bad at all. Yeah, more is better but they are okay. lose some of the OCD about your inside look of the windows, they are are just fine. thank you for your videos Matt. I'm learning so much from you.. i just hope that when I work on my roof I learn the lessons that you found. thank you for sharing mistakes.. we have those in great abundance and very few channels share mistakes and how to work around them, that is what most building and remodeling is about.. working through mistakes or missing things early enough. we need you to share those more.
The 6’8” height in a 9’ ceiling isn’t a big deal. If the ceilings were 10’ or higher I would change them.
I think the same. You'll appreciate the white space above, for sure.
Look into chunky trims for exterior. Interior, you can reframe to add functional transoms above the doors to aid in warm air return.
I agree. The 9' ceilings I have seen had standard height doors. My current home has 10' ceilings downstairs with taller doors and transoms above the windows. The 2nd floor has 9' ceiling with standard doors and no transoms.
@@rsr3959 ; That's the direction I'd take. Tie it in and make it look intentional.
Yep exactly. I would leave them. No big deal really.
I love watching your videos. You are entitled to be a know it all snob. Instead you choose humility. I bet you are a great guy to work for.
Glad to see professionals like you make mistakes too. Makes me not feel as bad with my silo house build. I literally came up with a better way to install my windows after I edited and published a video on it . You the man still when it comes to building technology 👍🏼.
Thank you for posting this cause I think it's better than most of the videos where I feel like I'm being sold a product. It takes great humility to post this but showing the rest of us how to overcome and prevail is so huge in times like this and thank you so much
So, a question for your main level header heights: You raised the ceiling height to 9', and you said your header heights are 6'8"... but then you said you are insulating and raising the subfloor. Was this subfloor thickness accounted for in the original header placement? if not, they have to raise up anyways
That was the first question I had as soon as he introduced his mistake. Forget about whether 6'8" will look well with 9' ceiling, the real question is, since I'm raising the floor, when do the schedule the framer to raise the headers?
I think when he said "I changed them from 8' to 9' ceiling height..." he may have been saying it was a field adjustment during framing. There may not have been a lot of thought put into it aside from adjusting the stringers. THe insulated floor idea probably came about in the process, but again, wasn't thoroughly thought out. So the opening layouts likely didn't say AFF. I'm assuming that's why he's embarrassed because as a pro he knows not to proceed without doing the homework.
Depending on the room layout, I'd make a step down (3' x Width) and use a flooring that helps it stand out. Maybe frame in a couple 2x6 knee walls on the ends to help with the occasional stumble. Put an oversized sill top on them for setting items when you need to free up your hands. Idk
Matt, I just stumbled upon your page, bc (believe it or not) I forgot how to cut a bird mouth in rafters. I been a Navy Chief and Seabee Builder for 25 years, and haven’t done any actual building since 2010.
I want to echo what everyone else is saying, good job at admitting your mistakes. Most people just point the finger elsewhere. I recently have made my own mistake on my parents place, and now Im scrambling to figure out what to do. Anyhow, good job, and I will keep an eye on your videos. Its always good to have a refresher for someone like me, who has been out of the game for so long. And one more thing, it’s nice to know you are in Austin. I spent 10 years in Waco.
Everyone makes mistakes but the master knows how to fix them.
Just found your channel- love it and the format. You show problems, but also give very direct & practical solutions. Something missing in so many of these. I also like your very clear, enunciated explanations.
As far as the headers go (though it's by far too late now)- I would have picked a room or two where taller windows (or transoms) made sense and spent the money to get taller windows. It doesn't have to be everywhere, just the spaces I spend the most time in where it would drive me to constantly question "not doing it" over the years. I've found that in time, I forget exactly how much I spent, but the constant reminder of where I skimped is maddening.
Matt, could you open up the window openings and add transom windows to the tops? Maybe the same over the large slider as well? 🤷♂️
EXCELLENT suggestion! Really good "outside the box" thinking!
I had the same thought.
I was just scrolling through looking for this suggestion, I think it's a great idea.
Just what I was thinking as well.
Those new 3M Post-It Notes are the best. I used them on those big contractor trash bags so I knew what was going to recycling, what to trash, what to thrift stores. (I was cleaning out a cluttered house for a customer.)
I'd stick with the 6'8" on the dining room window to keep the top of your door aligned with the adjacent windows. Great video as always Matt!
Problem solving is for sure part of building i have been doing its since 1986. Super nice looking framing Matt you and your guys keep up the hard work you do.
I'd leave the window and door headers at 6'8". I did the same thing on my house and it looks decent. Besides, raising the headers would increase the window sizes and give you more low insulation value glass surface.
Matt,
My hat's off to you for showing that you are just like the rest of us who mistakes!
I still find it helpful to have an eraser on my pencil!
Keep up the great "remodel" and other videos. Best wishes and stay healthy!
Re: header/windows -
I think leave the windows how they are with the 9’ header. I imagine changing it would not have much of an impact either visually, nor in terms of increased light. So it’s probably not worth the added cost. If you were to make a change, I think putting a 3rd window centered inbetween the other two windows would make more of an impact and probably cheaper. However, not knowing your kitchen layout, I assume that may not be an easy option either as it may affect cabinet or appliance layout.
People like to watch Matt because he’s always honest. Do you ever notice how when people make videos especially building shows that everyone tears them up in the comments talking about how stupid everything they did is? When you scroll down on Matt’s videos and look at the comments everyone’s like oh it’s OK buddy. Everyone makes mistakes. His humble heart is one reason why people watch him. You can’t be mad at a guy who tells you the truth even when it hurts.
Transom Windows above the headers. Easy fix, lets the light in that you want and opens the room "up" (vertically)
You must have at least one window in each bedroom that complies with the Emergency and Escape and Rescue code per 2018 IRC Section 310.1 - Your architect should know this stuff. The required window must have a net clear opening height of 24" and a net clear opening width of 20" and also must not be less than 5.7 square feet except for grade-level windows which are only required to be a minimum of 5.0 Square Feet. From what I saw in the video it doesn't look like any of those window sizes will comply with this part of the code. Sorry if this seems trivial to anyone. I'm a city building inspector and this is something we watch for all the time. It's part of what we call fire, life, and safety compliance.
As an attic insulator with a RUclips channel I value good insulation in a new home. I'm sure Matt would value a good attic insulation installation.
keep the 6'8" headers in the back. Once its finished, nobody will even notice. It'll be fine. It'll keep you humble. See it as your "Amish" mark. When the Amish make furniture, They do it so perfectlythat they turn it over and mar it with a hammer ...because ONLY God is perfect.
Agreed. It'll look fine and save a ton of money. Leave it be.
Can you add a transom window above?
do the Amish really do that?
@@ebog4841 yep mennonites do for sure
@@ebog4841 Thats what Ive been told. I may have Amish and Mennonites mixed up as paper burn said below. We have both here in Tennessee that make furniture. They do awesome work for sure.
Great problem solving video. Remember, It's not a 'mistake' until you do it again, it's 'learning' the first time!! Keep up the great work and thanks for all this great content on ALL your sites!!
"We don't have mistakes. We just have happy accidents."
-Bob Ross
Knew a Bob Ross, one eyed and his motto was close enough it never was
“Design is a process”. I’m an architect and my daughter always reminds me that I said that to her a long time ago on one of her house projects. It continues after you start on site. However the more you draw of the house in all sorts of cross sections furniture plans and details at the design stage the less these mistakes will happen. So pay your architecting a decent fee so that he can do that and make sure he does. And have what we call Play-Dough in your budget so that you can continue to make changes when you see the building on site. In the instance of your house Matt, the room on plan is obviously not going to fit a bed in the configurations it was if you don’t want the bed under the window. However from my experience in my house which I bought and didn’t design, in our bedroom we ended up with a bed head under a window and it’s fine with modern glass we don’t get a downdraught and actually we are thankful that we get ventilation very close to us in the hot parts of the summer and the stuffy the parts of the winter so you could actually have joined the three windows together as one and had it with the bed head underneath. Anyway I absolutely love your videos. We don’t do much site built timber framing in the UK, and all the techniques of waterproofing and the materials used are quite new to us. unfortunately we can’t get many of them here so we have to improvise with other things but a lot of the principles you describe are rock-solid.
yeah, but these cost money!!
My late friend Lonnie called it a "Professional oversight".
@Robert Slackware Oof
Great Problem Solving! I would make the change on the Garage door and leave the windows. Also on the window adjustments that you did to make more room for the flashing detail, Many times on doing the roofing on similar situations with less than 4" make it more difficult to seal. It is good to see your concern in that area!
the funniest part of this video is when you had the audacity to say your three sons will be sharing a room, and when your daughter leaves you’ll take her room as an office. doesn’t matter how friendly you are with siblings, every now and then you want alone time.
@@wojtek-33 probably motivates them to move out faster
@@steven7650 LOL...good one👍☺ 🇨🇦
Matt, great info.
I would add a small window above each exterior door/window. I have seen it on several plans, and to me, it makes perfect sense for a bit of extra light radiating through out the house, even if the blinds are closed.
I might can find you a link if you're interested.
Lol “It’s only a mistake if it’s catastrophic” -Elon Musk
I remember always feeling like I wanted to quit on my way home after days when I made $3,000+ mistakes when I first began-I’m a framer myself, I’ve gotten over that but nevertheless they really do suck
how much do we budget for errors?
@@steveatx8295 Typically 10% to 20%. We just finished remodeling our church educational building. The building had not been touched (except paint and carpet) in close to 50 years. Lots of unknowns and the things we did know weren't good. We had a 30% total contingency and spent every last bit. (I was not the contractor.) Several years ago I built a MIL/Guesthouse on the site of a home I built many years before. I knew the customer, the site and the plan well. I used a 7% contingency and we finished at around 5%. It really depends on the job, how complex, finish level, and confidence level.
It is cliche to say “it depends” but it’s so true. I can’t add 10-20% on a track home but on a custom home with a very high risk and degree of difficulty-atleast 10%, it’s necessary.
Remodels are also a different ball game, there is always an unseen thing. Especially when dealing with structural tie-in and changes of the existing one. And in that case it’s not just carpentry errors but planning errors. I wouldn’t do a remodel with less than 15% and maybe as high as 40%.
For example I’ve done jobs where we take out all the supporting walls of a building and replace / raise them. There are a lot of contingent factors there compared to say a simple load-bearing wall removal.
Excellent! Watching "mistakes" is a lot more helpful than trying to get it all out of a book or following only one way of doing things which I see a lot. In this age of fast video, I would document all this and save it all for review...only keep reviewing the top major mistakes at each stage of the build. Of course, that would take a lot of effort, but you could hire a college kid to put it all together....heck, I think you've hit it on the head already. Big lesson: keep an open mind and always be learning.
My wife, the interior designer, said that if you want to utilize the widows you have, you could lower the existing windows, and add a narrower transom window above.
That's an excellent idea
Love the stair dormer and the dynamic quality of the room below. We have a house by David George, circa 1965, with 9' ceilings with a 1x10" stand-off facia that runs throughout the entire interior which now conceals led string lighting in some sections. That may be a solution to make sense of your window spacing too!
Build a indirect lighting cove, Like 8 -9" high, along the wall above the 6'8" headers to cut down the height a bit.
A possible idea for the windows in the back is a Valance. My family used to have a resort and the windows in the dinning room had them and we used the valances as shelves for decorations (holiday/seasonal and antiques because of our long history). You could also put lights below and above for things like low level lighting when watching movies, mood lighting, etc.
I would say leave the 6'8", but knowing you, you will tear the whole house down and start again. LOL
That's funny gave me a good laugh because it's true, I'm surprised the house is still standing after that mistake. LOL
Love all your videos Matt! In regards to your window height dilemma, taking the cost of reframing, ordering a new door, etc. into an account, I say not worth it. I'm an interior designer and the trick that always fools the eye is to mount your window treatments as high as possible so if you're using drapes in your space (which always transform the space), the window height will be diminished
You won't regret reworking for the 9' ceiling! Taller widows please :)
I love the honesty. Thank you for allowing us to learn from your mistakes. As far as the header, I would say it is not a big deal. Maybe use a bigger trim/crown detail to close the gap and give the illusion of height.
Matt: At the beginning of this series, you mentioned you were going to do a ZIP 1.5 (instead of 2.0) with limited use of liquid flashing on the OSB. Why aren't you using ZIP System Liquid Flash for the OSB/foundation interface? Also, why are you using wood extensions around your windows instead of the ThermaBuck product? Thanks!
Trusty Scout he's using a different product but with the same result.
@@stewmeat9261 I'm sure its because Matt is sponsored by both companies. Fast Flash is way better stuff than the zip liquid flash, however, my rep has told me not to mix and match because Huber does not warranty the system that way. Fast Flash is probably a better install and will get him the same results the problem is for us normal builders you're out on the warranty.
WillTam08 that warranty part is true but I'm sure they'll cover Matt. He sells a lot of product for them.
Matt,
Congrats on making such a video. It seems most people concentrate on the great ideas and great results and to demonstrate the mistakes makes you 10 feet tall. I actually think your whole crew should have a segment on this. Architects as well.
It makes you all human.
great vid. change the height. you are already there, just do it. buy once, cry once. this is long term home, dont sell your self short. take care
Thank you, Matt, for being transparent mistakes happen to all of us for one reason or another
Reframe and reorder, you'll be looking at those windows and door for years and you'll never be happy
Tare of the zip and re sheath the remodel.
I like to put headers at the very top of the wall and then frame down to the rough openings. It's much easier to make changes. That said, I would move your existing windows down and order clerestory windows to go above them.
I just realized how old this video is
@@tsmall07 As an attic insulator with a RUclips channel I value good insulation in a new home. I'm sure Matt would value a good attic insulation installation.
@@SinnisjInsulator What does that have to do with putting the headers at the top of the wall? The attic is above the walls.
@@tsmall07 sorry I realise my comment is not about wall insulation. You really seem to know your stuff though. Why those types of windows?
Keep them at 6'8"
You're in Texas. Think about radiant heat in Summer. Your insulation is better this way
Literally watch your videos everyday love your content your audience appreciates you
Matt: Dumb Mistakes I made
Meet Kevin: Yes you did
Bring headers all the way up and orders top transom windows. You should be able to see elevations on exterior and interior to get a better picture of house. If it's your house, only you will live with it.
Make the changes, if you order new windows either pay the restocking fee or save them and squeeze them in on next project. 😁
Keep up the good work.
"What happens when you build your own house is you keep making changes and the costs go up" - Paraphrased Matt Risinger quote.
Leave the kitchen and family room windows alone. Go with the plan (another paraphrased Matt quote I think).
It seems like you can never stop learning, especially when other builders review their work calling out the good and bad. No matter how much thought goes into the project, something mew always comes along. Trouble shooting and corrections are rarely talked about, but truly an important part of every builders skill set. Header height, leave them as is, gonna look great! Great work Matt, looks great. How are those Jeld Wen windows working? How about a review. Thank You madman.
Could just put transoms to accompany the extra space.
Showing your mistakes and show how to fix them only speaks to your honesty. Well done and now I trust you even more. 👍
Change the door heights. You'll soon forget the financial pain but long remember the mistake if you don't. Surprised JenWeld won't do you a solid and take 'em back - those have to be fairly common sizes.
I wouldn't consider these big mistakes - you pivoted a massive amount from a small remodel to a new-build - issues bound to happen because you really needed months to get the details right that you didn't have. The sill-to-foundation detail was more a pita than a problem. A few man-hours and a few tubes of Contega isn't the end of the world - $500 perhaps?
Fwiw, I'm not impressed with Contega HF - the stuff shrinks when cured (maybe 30-50%?) and loses quite a bit of it's tackiness. Surprisingly, Green Glue Compound (not Green Glue Sealant) really works well as an always-flexible acoustic sealant - I'd say it is the equivalent to Tremco's black death in long-term stickiness, but a much more eco-friendly material. And it's 1/3rd the price and a lot more readily available. All my interior air sealing will be with Green Glue Compound
Hi Matt. Stick with the headers as they are. I’m in a new home with 9’ ceilings and it has 6’8” doors and windows. This let us save money on the drapes and it looks great.
Also your house might become a showpiece to walk future clients through. I would make it right. Dont leave something you would feel embarrassed by.
Yep and this is his house, fix it now, pay the "I messed up" price and then avoid the mistake with a client in the future.
Love how you show your mistakes with humility and honesty.
Thanks Brother. Hopefully you can learn from these and not make the same on your build!
The 6'8 feels a bit cookie cutter for me, being a house you a builder live in I would 100% get it fixed if you can afford it and if it's what you want. If you weren't a builder I'd say keep it and save the money
We had the same window issue when we went with 9' ceilings. We added fixed transom windows above the existing windows. Some reframing was required but they look great and let in lots of light. Downside is that if you want to block that light it makes window covering a little more problematic (but not insurmountable).
My opinion: Don't raise window/door height. Opportunity for thick crown molding.
Matrim Cauthon Agreed agreed. Sounds like more of a financial mess than a solved design issue.
Matt nice build, my construction trades teacher always said the "best carpenter is the one that knows how to fix his Own mistakes" it appears that you have done a wonderful job addressing the challenges in your build