House Engineering - Common Mistakes
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- Опубликовано: 7 июн 2024
- On this Build Show we will take you on a Framing Tour with Matt's Engineer on his personal BUILD. Whit Smith,PE is a second generation Structural Engineer that has worked with Matt and his team on many complicated custom homes. Whit will point out several areas where he sees common mistakes and tell you what to look for in a well built home.
Huge thanks to Whit for coming on the show! www.smith-structural.com/people
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Smith Structural Engineers was founded in Austin, TX 30 years ago. They specialize in commercial and residential structural design. SSE is currently focused on serving their established clientele, but they appreciate you taking the time to watch the video and hope you find the information useful for your next project.
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Engineer guy was good communicator, get him on again
After watching the video advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans ruclips.net/user/postUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the video. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!
And i was thinking i might learn something on Common Mistakes buillders could make, instead all I hear for 13 minutes is that engineered lumber is more stable then normal lumber, well that was a waste of 13 minutes
Hearing him upsell "engineered wood that doesn't bow or squeak" was annoying.
Most if not all subflooring will be delivered warped, placed on sub-optimal support and rained on before the shingles and windows are installed.
I see this all the time especially in new homes by production or "custom" builders.
@@h3llblaz3r12
I used the advantec flooring on my addition. Got rained on.. didn't hurt it.
But yes. I agree.
@@turboflush Yes advantech is designed to not absorb as much but it can and will if left long enough.
Matt is all about how can I make a $300K house cost a million and still mess up along the way while convincing the masses he is god
Scrape a lot clean. Saturate with water for dust control. Pour slab. Dump all building material on mud. Build duck walk path the fifty feet to the house from materisls pile over mud
Shortstaff the crew so there is only one person to transport extra long sheathing to building.
Frame walls and sheath in oriented strand board, Leave open over rainy season. Roof at start of dry season. Pressure wash exterior walls before painting.
Finish inside. Wonder why building is moldering in two months. Bring in driers, watch everything distort.
Be grateful for wildfire which incinerates whole town.
Matt,
90% of home issues I have to look at in my area are either about improper deck design (especially attachment to the house), improper notching/drilling of floor joists, or improper anchorage of guardrails. I think having your engineer spend an episode each on these topics would save a lot of contractors money down the road.
I was hoping to see mistakes that people make, not how awesome this builder does it
What happened at 2:34 looks like someone miss read the plans and framed a window in the wrong place?
Robert Reilly it’s looks like they wanted to put a door there.
If that was framed for a door why is there 2 sill plates? You would just put full length studs to fill in.
I don’t know,
@@tomatexelon might be a change order also. Been there many times with homeowners. After it's in doesn't look right.
As a Structural engineer myself he did a great job explainin things in a simple form instead of using jargon
"Engineers like to solve problems. If there are no problems handily available, they will create their own problems."
That’s called a mechanic. Edit statement. -An engineer who just solved your problem
Yeah, I've added lighting to so many places that didn't need it in my home during this quarantine haha
The problems are what make the work interesting. As an Engineer and volunteer builder I don't intentionally create problems, but I do look for them.
@@politics4816 www.brainyquote.com/quotes/scott_adams_126696 That is the source of the original quote. It wasn't meant to be offensive, but rather a light hearted joke. Apologies for any offense.
@@draconis112 no need to apologize. i'm an engineer and i think it's hilarious.
Matt, I'm a licensed and practicing architect and I absolutely love the in depth content that you provide. I mostly do commercial retail, but do the occasional job on the side for friends. This is real world knowledge that you just can't get without experience. Keep up the good work!
If you care about your clients- find the best LUMBER u can. Yes engineered beams work great most of the time, but thats where the benefits stop.
Hey Matt! Love this video so much. Its honestly awesome from a young guy understanding the perspective been engineer/ builder and why each role is so crucial an important. I've been deciding between the engineering and CM route and love how they work together.
Okay,.... I'm tearing out my solid wood floors and framing,.... going with engineered wood materials. Wish me luck!!
Some 15 years ago we had issues with nail pops in subfloor over LVL (not solid sawn) T&B chord I joists. By happenstance, I ran across a report on nail types for various lumbers. We had been using ring-shanks for our subflooring since whenever, but turns out this is WRONG for engineered lumber. The glues in the engineered materials make the fibers more rigid and brittle, and the annular rings on the ring-shanks nails act like a broach does in metal. They punch a hole in the engineered wood, so that the fibers do not close around the rings, and cannot therefore provide resistance to withdrawal. A smooth shank will push aside the wood fibers, without cutting them, and the glues and the (typical) coating on the nail shank will develop the needed withdrawal resistance. In solid sawn, the ring shank pushes aside the unreinforced (by glues) fibers, which then relax back into the grooves, providing the greater withdrawal resistance.
We have also found that 1 1/2" hanger nails into solid sawn generally loosen during drying (really noticeable on hurricane ties). This is significant enough that the rule is 2 1/2" hanger nails if at all possible, whatever the spec. We also like structural screws a lot; they don't become loose, but the labor is a bit intense. We are often able to get away from hurricane ties by using solid rollover blocking flush to exterior on the top plate, between rafter tails, and using tall sheathing to tie the wall studs to that blocking, which is then nailed solidly to the rafters. Just need a responsive engineer, and careful management of the framers. Oh, we don't do vented attics, and do seal the wall sheathing to roof sheathing, as part of the continuous exterior insulation system, as per these videos.
Why not spec a Parallam post and save the bolt-up labor?
Interesting about the withdrawal of ring shank nails from LVL. Would you happen to remember where you found the report you ran across?
@@nomen_meus This was long ago, and I did not download the document. I did review and discuss with my (superb) structural engineer, who was as surprised as I was. I went out on my current job, and found that the ring-shanks that had popped (renovation in a very old house, where we had to be tying in to stuff that was a bit below modern standards) could sometimes be pulled out by finger power only (!!). It was eye-opening, to say the least. The only thing that had saved my jobs (I surmise) was the rigorous use of subfloor adhesive. The bit about relative shrinkage between solid sawn (always) and engineered wood (basically none) in the video is an important concept to be aware of, as it can can cause distress much later (with little recourse). The LVL in our case was because the 100+ year old solid sawn was dried down to a final dimension, and we wanted the new to NOT shrink after we installed it. Match now/ match later.
@@leestevens446 yes I use LVL scraps from work in my 70 year old home reno. It's almost always straight so I can just focus on correcting the old timber, and the low risk of shrinkage means one less thing to worry about. An interesting thing I've found out about LVL is that if it gets wet it will swell, but will retain some of that expansion once completely dried out. So I try to avoid that...
I found it strange that he didn't mention structural screws at all. If you want a squeak-free floor all you need is construction adhesive, normal OSB/plywood, and structural screws. They won't break, won't back out, and the glue keeps the OSB from rubbing against the joists in the spots between screws.
The trees are so small and immature that nothing holds anymore. I saw the last of the decent lumber go and since then its been a nailing nightmare!
Where is this fantasy land where builders are concerned about building in other than the cheapest and fastest manner and an engineer is available to come inspect the work?
Timothy ____ RUclips fantasyland...
It’s the builders house? Also, most people rely on inspectors to do this type of work. Some knows, some don’t. But you always have an option to hire an engineer to come out and inspect the work. Money talks.
If the buyers are willing to pay most builders would be happy to use the best quality materials, the problem is that everyone wants champaign at beer pricing.
In California depending on the engineering firm used it has become common practice for the engineer to come out and sign off on the job. Builders are just like anyone else, some are good others aren't. All of the custom homes that I have worked on have always been top quality. I don't do production work anymore but you always go by what the plans say. There is a real shortage of qualified help in the trades these days and I'm afraid once the people like myself retire there won't be anyone left to build the things that need to be built. Kids these days don't want to work so there is no new blood.
In California there is strict codes. And engineers have to be on site for frame inspection.
One drawback to the wood house I can't get over is the flamability factor.
Old boy Scout chant comes to mind while trying to lit a bone fire "Jedną Zapłkom! Jedną Zapałkom!"
"Just one match! Just one match!"
Excellent video Matt. As a builder in Ca. I appreciate your videos and your engineers perseverance in creating superior building practices. Look forward to your future video’s.
Glad he clarified the nail vs. screw. Thanks, from Georgia.
Engineered wood is the new name for particale board.
It's the latest method of raping the consumer! Notch a load of poles with a chainsaw, and your structure will outlive this gluelam nonsense!🤣
Yes, 'engineered material' sounds SO much better than particle board, but IMO it is still the same worthless crap, only now frequently sold for higher prices than real wood. The big problem with this stuff is that the design numbers look good when the material is new, but let it see the slightest water exposure and it quickly turns back into what it was originally - sawdust and wood chips. Currently involved with remodelling an old building which had a bad roof. Different sections of the roof deck were made out of 1x lumber, CDX plywood, or 'engineered material'. Every piece of particle board on the deck was falling apart. Most of the plywood showed at least the start of delamination and was also removed. At least 90% of the roof deck made from dimension lumber was essentially undamaged here in dry NM and was left in place. All that particle board in high stress locations in the house in this video makes me shudder. Hope this guy never gets a roof leak or plumbing leak that goes undetected for any length of time ... Part of the trouble with engineers - they frequently believe and rely on the manufacturer's data on these miracle materials, without using appropriate safety factors and without considering long term effects of the environment on the design numbers. You want an old guy for an engineer - one who has made a few mistakes and seen or lived with the consequences.
Robert Muckle facts
@@kimlground206 well said.
Engineered lumber is definitely not particle board. In most cases the engineered products out perform dimensional lumber in every way but cost. They are stronger, more stable, are more resistant to weather, insects and rot. Houses built with these products are also more likely to still be standing after large earthquakes which is always a plus. It isn't necessary to go as far as this guy has gone but it certainly won't hurt. So, no I disagree with your assumptions.
6:27 I remember my uncle installing joist hangers with drywall screws on his deck. I did the old pliers twist test with a Simpson nail and the drywall screw and he ended up pulling the screws and going with nails. The joist hangers from Simpson actually tell you which nail or screw to use and if you elect for a shorter nail or screw it will give you the reduced structural capacity.
Deck screws and drywall screws are intended to "clamp" parts together. They're harder than nails to prevent excessive twist when driving them in with a power driver. This property makes them brittle and not suitable for handling shear loads. Not all screws are the same however. There are screws specifically designed for joist hangers amd these are designed for both clamping and shear load (more ductile material and a thicker cross section). They're much better than nails.
@@OU81TWO I disagree that screws are better than nails. I've used a pneumatic joist hanger nailers and it's so much better and faster than a drill or impact gun. I recently went to a Dewalt 20v hanger nailer an cutting the cord, hose and compressor has been the best ever. Time is money and messing around with a structural screw is no fun when installing hundreds of screws.
Timely, we're just about to install some 14' LVLs for a new "tall wall" and a 4-ply 18" LVL for an open loft. Love it, more please!
Thank you brother for keeping us accountable.
Knowledge is power. Looking forward to more episodes with Whit!
I'm here because since I graduated from architect university I mostly work with concrete and brick. Next month we have a project mostly builted using wood. Thank you, this is a very informative video.
That was really awesome having the engineer explain all about these engineered wood
We used up to 28 feet on a building in Palo Alto in '79, they called El Pino Viejo, 2 x 14, 1 foot on center, 4 x 14s bolted to the walls, which were speed block, and we did some pour in place. We nailed the joist hanger nails with a palm nailer, which was like a heavy radio mic, with a tip that ran in and out, a spring loaded collar held the nail, and retracted to drive the nail home, it was pneumatic.
Such a good allocation of resources spending on the permanent part of the house. I see too many clients willing to have poor quality structure and mechanicals so they can spend more of decorating and furniture.
Well, any builder worth a damn knows it's what behind the walls and below the floor that matters. However, homeowners don't have a clue and with the lack of information about various builders and the quality of homes they build, they can only evaluate on what they see. What needs to happen is to start rating homes on quality as well as aesthetics, amenities and location. And that requires banksters to start demanding appraisers giving premiums for build quality/efficiency.
What sucks is we have legions of shows/reviewers posting about every new cars and electronics, but nobody talking about the quality of various builders. It's disgraceful considering homes are typically the biggest investment people make. Instead we rely on incompetent 'appraisers' who barely know their elbow from you-know-what.
What I don’t get is why he didn’t use concrete block reinforced with rebar and concrete, or ICF construction.
We definitely need a rating system that is well marketed so that the common buyer has a standardize reference. If higher quality doesnt get a return for the money, only customs will use that method.
Ya think ?! LOL - great if obvious observation...i just dotn understand why anyone building their own house doesnt do it right. Sure if you are buying a spec house, who cares if it meets code-just be sure to flip it in 20 or so years. A house is not like a woman’s dress or shoes to be discarded after a few years,
nope as builders we should'nt do any extra then what the plans call for and if you want to make structural improvements (useless) you need to go thru the city the inspectors wont appreciate and it will look very amateur if you try to improve the structural on your own this lumber is not better quality it just has bigger load and span and its good in certain applications. all houses built today are designed way stronger then houses 20 or 30 years ago and yes its better to spend your money on stuff that you actually going to see and improve the value the house
Love the advanced framing and engineering content. Great video!
GREAT SHOW and I enjoy watching, wish you had a counterpart in the northern region... Our construction methods differ greatly.
EDITOR: You audio compression / noise reduction is cutting out the top and low end of their voices (prime example @11:50). It's pretty distracting; sounds like you're listening through a cup on a door.
Otherwise, good edits.
Sounds more like low bitrate to me. But I concur...bad audio!
I didn't even notice. Many viewers are more interested in content not audio quality
@@samt5663 I didn't notice but I think that's because I stopped listening as they really weren't saying much.
Oh god I can imagine in 30 years a new homeowner coming in and seeing that thin column sticking out and saying “ hmm might just open up this space a bit and trim this wall piece back a foot or so . . .” And by by house.
That's why you should always hire a professional. That way, when they do it you have someone to sue. ;o)
Literally any house you just randomly start cutting pieces out of will become unsafe.
Thanks for the walk through. I've learned a lot from you Matt
More engineers, please! Appreciate his knowledge.
I forgot to mention that the house had been remodeled so many times the framing members have been cut displaced and adding onto,YetYet they are still standing. I now live in California where you have Over engineered everything, I like new ideas in the building trades but I think we’ve gone a little bat shit crazy.
Gr8 video Mat. Luv the part about the braces and hangars and what type of fasteners needed. Very important no matter what lumber is used. Thanks.
Great video. Love the technical content.
Kept watching because still kinda interesting, but very clickbate title. This is an engineered wood promo, not an actual "house engineering, common mistakes" video, which is what I clicked the video for.
Check out Perkins Builder Brothers. They have several good videos about actual mistakes and how to actually avoid them vs solving all of your life's problems with engineered lumber.
I think this is your 4th video now where you keep praising engineered lumber without ever once bringing up the drawbacks, except cost (barely). Engineered lumber uses a lot of glue that off-gasses and also isn't responsible fiber use when it isn't needed. It's much more processed and typically has higher embodied carbon. Unlike OSB, LSL, or the webs of a TJI that are made out of waste (mostly) chips, plywood and LVL are rotary peeled. Logs for rotary peeling are bigger, more mature trees. Framing studs come from small, fast growing trees. If you are concerned about stud quality, insist on KD or S-Dry and you won't have nearly the bow/twist problems of GRN. I'm not a LEED expert, but I don't think your house could be LEED certified with all that glue.
Matt got a deal on his lumber package from BC because they are a sponsor - and that's why he's using engineered lumber everywhere. Matt has never paid much attention to green building - he regularly encases homes in spray foam. This build he will use a bit of Havelock Wool insulation (surely donated and likely another paid promo) which is a welcome new direction.
In residential construction, I think you would be surprised at how easy it is to be LEED certified on a budget like this. There are so many points available with this build and the local sourcing of materials. Where he may fall short in one area he will easily make up in others.
Finish materials such as vinyl flooring and the cheap grades of MDF used in cabinetry off-gas far more than engineered lumber used for framing. I would start by looking first at finishes and cabinetry. In the past urea-formaldehyde glues were the main adhesive in plywood and osb products. But now more and more manufacturers are switching to phenol-formaldehyde and isocyanurate glues. These off-gas during curing. But that process is complete by the time the wood gets to the lumber yard.
I'd probably opt for finger-jointed studs over LVL studs if my concern was straight walls. But LVLs are certainly extremely useful for headers, beams and rim joists.
EWP products generally contain 4-6% adhesives. None of the products mentioned are made from “waste” chips. Products like OSB, LSL, and web materials also allow the manufacturer to use non-environmentally stressed species that are not fit for use as conventional lumber. EWP products produce a longer, stronger and straighter product that uses 80-95% of the wood fiber in the log. By comparison, Conventional lumber generally utilizes about 60% of the log for framing lumber. (note - today of the off fall from either product is sold for other products or used to power the plants and doesn’t go to waste. Adhesive products used in today’s EWP products have less off-gassing than the wood used in manufacture. You would be surprised at how Green Engineered lumber is when compared to conventional lumber - better utilization of the wood fiber, no culls, less product used with less bulk, less waste.EWP is environmentally friendly, most are green certified, and build a better product with better products and less waste.
Just don't ever let it get even a little bit wet . . .
Really enjoyed this as an engineering student
So, what is it that is being remodeled?
Are you keeping the mail box? It looks like a new house on an old slab to me, but I’m just an amateur.
I don't believe he is an engineer. I am an engineer and I know that we don't come good looking and well spoken. Next time get a real engineer.
Can confirm
You must be a young engineer. There are good-looking and well-spoken engineers. I've seen one myself. Once. Twice, if you count RUclips.
I fit that bill...but i'm a ME/MBA working as a sales engineer. We are a little different. :-)
Where's his pocket protector ?
As an engineer I resemble this remark! 😂🤓
Would like to have more of this type of video with engineering info that applies to real world situations. Your engineer is a sharp guy. Thanks Matt.
Thank you, learn something new everyday
My house is 103 years old and made from rough sawn lumber and the floor joists are tree trunks with bark still on them. Still standing.
Exactly. I live in an area where homes were built in the 20"s with minimal lumber and huge snowloads. Hardly any type of foundation etc. They are still standing although most have been torn down and rebuilt with the massive greedfest housing boom.
100+ yo old houses were built with old growth trees. much stronger than any second or third growth trees available now. fir and pine were basically hardwoods back then, being already many hundreds of years old when the great clearcuts began
All this information and for FREE . Love it !
Great video Matt! with your engineer, everything was explained well. It's also the way I would do it.
Always good alot of this i know all ready but its nice to have a great refresher
Any advice on which adhesive to use when fixing to the edge of LVL? (sides where you see layers).
I haven't found a product that bonds yet, and will absolutely never rely on nails through the edges, only screws and accept that the glue is only there as a 'gasket' to minimise squeaks.
Great video and insight!
can't wait for the final video of this series.
How do you address electrical and low voltage wiring on these homes? Do you for example require your AV contractor to do BIM drawings so as the verify that no structure is compromised as they drill and install wire and other misc materials?
Hi Tony, I own a fire alarm and security contracting firm. We perform designs in house and we have not been asked to do any BIM. Just standard 2d drawings and to avoid trade collisions we have a site meeting with all the contractors. As for running cable there areas you can punch out but there are requirements on how many can be punched out etc. You also cannot drill through Microlam beams but we can staple to them. Sometimes these are boxed out to facilitate wire and mechanicals. In a spec home like this we get the PE at the meeting with a list of questions and trade coordination to avoid costly mistakes.
This is so interesting I wish I learned engineering in school
It's not to difficult to learn the basics,. It's called "Statics" a type of physics based mathematics.
Area loads from the roof and floor distribute to unified distributed line loads on the beams which then distribute to point loads on columns all the way down to the foundations and footings for buildings. Concrete footings are like snow shoes redistributing the above forces to the ground so the building doesn't sink.
They never mentioned those engineered floor joists do NOT last long during a house fire the can easily collapse when firefighters are in house searching for occupants
That’s what college is for. Some high schools have a basic general engineering class or two, but you won’t get anywhere near the specifics in this video.
Search for HUD Structural Design Guide. It’s a good high level summary of the engineering calculations involved.
Matt, one thing you guys should cover is the growing, and somehow still unknown, requirement for shear walls; where these are required, their purpose, common framing mistakes and how to resolve them. It's been an interesting topic since the designers (architects and engineers) have different thoughts about how to satisfy this, not to mention how farmers think it should be done.
Yes, I'd like to see more about that too. Also, discuss using some of the prefabricated shear walls like Simpson StrongWall.
Awesome stuff Matt! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
love this channel. Great knowledge. Keep it up
I wonder why your engineer, regarding structural hangers, didn't mention the shear strength of nails vs screws. And also the pull strength. There is a big difference...as I remember learning. Correct? It's an honest question. Thank you kindly
Because the engineer is a tricky dicky. You are correct typically. Nails and screws exists across a spectrum of different strengths and weaknesses but the fastener is not always selected based upon its inherent qualities. Nails and screws have a sheer rating and the medium they are installed into cannot change this as it is a character of the fastener. Resistance to being unfastened is a team effort, part on the fastener and part on the fastening medium. Composite materials typically do not offer the same resistance to unfastening so there is really no benefit to using screws and screws typically damage the composite during installation anyway.
Great information
Multi camera shoot with a new style of post-processing editing. New video techniques used. Great job in post with the bRoll and the graphics! There is an issue with the two mics. They are not balanced to one another.
Another thing I've noticed is that the mics are set to auto-gain. You can tell because switching from one person speaking to another, the first few words they say are super low. I'm wondering if they switched audio people (or editors) for this particular episode. The audio all sounds very muddy.
Also Matt's feed has a low level hiss that made me think my computer fans kicked in to high gear until I paused the video. I'm using speakers so it must be driving people on headphones even more crazy.
Whit rocks! Thanks for the show.
Yay! I've been waiting for a video on this topic. :-)
Hi fun video, since im a i-beam constructor from Norway. You covered the most important "issues" with i-beam, witch is "shear force",
I always put details on my drawings on how to do it right (since its commonly overlooked).
I do have one question about that coloumn with all that load, it sits on a timber sill, also its on the end at the sill?
Usually all coloums with extensive load has to have direct contact with foundation, since "sills - not sure what u call them" have wood fibers horisontal.
And structurally wood is weak with fibers horisontal, is this different with engineered wood?
Regards (sorry for bad english).
I'm curious about that too, perhaps IT IS different with engineered lumber. From my experience, it is very hard to compress plywood, which is basically what an LVL is with different dimensions. I definitely would not do it with traditional lumber though.
The LVL has a higher perpendicular to grain value than the typical SPF or SYP lumber used. You are spot on with standard lumber crushing perp to grain.
I wonder how the engineered studs last if you happen to have a flood? Locally some places built 80 years ago are seeing a flood, never before seen due to a 20 mile long ice jam. Or even the happenstance of a check valve on a sump pump failing and town water backing into the basement. 🤔
if LVL gets saturated it will expand, and then shrink again, but not back to its original size. I picked up one 45mm thick offcut I'd left in the rain, it was about 49, then once dry 46. The width expanded then shrank back to original. I think it gains thickness because the glue laminates change. I'd say the overall distortion would be what you'd experience from (dry) sawn lumber though.
Great video Matt. So glad you continue to bring design professionals into your more recent videos. So many times do I hear contractors and homeowners considering design documents as an added expense and do not understand the value in having a good set of documents (instructions). As an Architect, I often try to relate what we design professionals bring to the table in lament terms the best I can. For those who bake, would you ever try to bake bread not following a recipe? Those who are fitness fanatics, would you ever not plan your meals, and expect to get fit? And so on. I try to give my potential clients not a sales pitch, but instead, find ways to show them there is tremendous value in design documents and building a design team. Whit clearly shows that here...Thanks for continuing to show the complexity of our industry and how it takes the right professionals to accomplish something great. Thanks, Matt @ BOTTEGA+
How does engineered lumber hold up in a fire, vs traditional lumber? The reason I'm asking is because our local fire department is now refusing to enter houses with engineered trusses. They're stating that in a fire, the glue gives way, allowing the floor to drop quicker than a solid piece of wood, like a 2"x8" or 2"x10".
This is accurate. I work for a forensic engineering firm and we have done controlled burns on traditional sawn lumber vs I-joists. The I-joist burned much faster and completely disintegrated well before the solid lumber. It was concerning to say the least.
Engineered Lumber has so many advantages over traditional Lumber but for three (#1 it's more susceptible to mold, #2 acts as an accelerant in house fires & #3 cost ). That being said, I still wish I would have used engineered floor joist in my house when I built it 12 years ago. Exterior walls using 2×6 traditional Lumber, no problems ( I would do that again in a heartbeat plus my wife likes the larger window sills for knick knacks and Christmas decorations). Interior traditional 2x4 Lumber walls, quite a few got sent back to the lumber yard, but in the end the carpenters did a good job catching those warp boards and throwing them aside.
Same char rate as lumber look at the astm
Watching these videos is both enlightening and scary. How many builders out there are rookies and don't follow these principles?
this was a great informative video
Wish the previous owners of my house had talked to a guy like Whit. I'd have a flat floor and a better load bearing post. Great content and very useful.
The key to building a straight house (besides framing it properly) is checking every single board at the lumber yard for trueness and storing it flat on site.
Contractors don't give two shit how twisted or warped lumber is if they can make it work just good enough.
Great stuff Matt
This video is very useful
Very good episode. Learned much
"No culls" on those strand studs? Dude has never worked with the product then....
Nice infomercial. Big money in that build. Looks rock solid.
Screws are much easier to remove in case of a layout mistake. Not that I've ever made a mistake in the layout. :)
I'm pretty sure the concern is about shear strength, tho.
So you can do the construction equivalent of a tack weld using screws, check that everything is in the right place, drive your nails and replace the screws.
If I worried about post tension cables. I might try to access the ends, and hook a radio signal to it, like underground detection with USA, Underground Service Alert, companies hook a radio signal to the conductor, it acts like an antenna, and they have a sensor that they pass over the ground until they find the conductor.
Would a good metal detector work ?
I wish Matt was in Australia and could take a look at my insane, old roof structure made with hardwoods, treated pine, and who knows what else, sloppily connected and all covered in old Colorbond steel panels. It creaks and pops in loud cascading waves across the length of the house but it has stood up to some serious winds that scream over the hill like a tsunami.
These engineered products seem to be the way of the future. It's exciting to think of the longevity, durability, and low-carbon implications of something like this becoming the standard here in North America. With proper moisture control, there's no reason a home like that won't last +500 years
Love this video. I’m an engineer out in California. How do you guys handle non-brg wall top plate connections to floor framing above? In commercial construction, we provide some sort of slip connection to allow the floor to move without loading the wall. Is this overkill in residential?
Hi Jose, I'm from California too, but not living there now. I have a Master's Degree in structural engineering but I am not licensed. In my long career in single family residential construction I'd say that it's not much of an issue, due to the small scale and large numbers of load paths you end up with in a typical home design. Of course, when you least expect it you bump into that critical exception and it's usually because it causes some totally minor problem that is a major annoyance (rightfully so) to a home owner, like a squeak in the floor or a vibration that causes a china cabinet to rattle.
Again, Thank You! for pointing out what products are best.
As I'm learning, what IS and what isn't good.. I will KNOW when speaking to tradesmen if they're telling me the truth or not.
I come to understand, what I'm not able to fix myself.
I figure if I'm better educated, I will stand a better chance of not being taken advantage of when hiring someone to do the repairs needed.
So with that said, again. Thank You for taking your time to walk through this video is a detailed way, even I could understand. (I took notes. lol)
There's at least one person in the comment section, that seemed a bit negative.. Ignore him/them.
It would seem he neglected to eat his prunes. (eye roll with a Tiff)
You're here for me, not him. I benefited from this, as I'm sure others have as well.
Have a great night!
Jenn
Very informative. I like it 👌
And what happens if any type of fire load hits that "engineered" lumber? What should have been a room and contents fire becomes a write off, and hopefully nobody was injured or killed.
Agree,,, Fire in these structures kills firefighters.. Money over saftey once again but hey as long as the people made it out alive..
Looking good. Coming along
Matt your show is an incredible resource. You are increasing the quality of so many projects around the world. Keep up the great work!
Great content!
Excellent content thanks.
Throughout I felt that the photographer and editor thought it was more important for me to see the people gesticulating than for me to get a look at what they were talking about.
You Didn't mention that he is an engineer that works for the company that manufacturers most of the engineered product you are using!
What evidence do you have for your claim? This is structural design consultant and not a manufacturing engineer.
Very enjoyable video. Do you have any videos on reinforcing I-joists to support loads or overhead storage in a garage setting?
I just finished framing a floor structure for a three season room addition at my house. I went to the Simpson catalog online to spec connectors and fasteners to meet my design loads (I'm a civil engineer).
The hangers that arrived from the local lumber yard were for the same lumber size (a 2x8 hanger is a 2x8 hanger, right?). The ones they provided had different load capacities and well as different fastener requirements.
This happened with post bases, joist hangers, and 10d Simpson nails where I ordered 3" and they sent the 1-1/2" that they stock. I had a "come to Jesus" meeting with the salesman about asking questions rather than assuming that I had "made a mistake" on the materials list.
Great video, as always. Wondering: if one were to build a rooftop deck, could you use engineered lumber? Obviously wouldn't be able to rip an angle into them... are there options?
Yea just get engineered stock lumber. You can cut whatever angle you want into that. You’ll just be paying a premium for the “fine tuned” hardwood.
Nice internal structure. When would you use a trellis system instead of I-joists? I like how you are eliminating any squeaks.
I seen something you should be doing, that I didn't see done. It good to put a little dab of sub floor adhesive in your joist hangers to prevent squeaks.
The engineer mentioned an advantage of the I-joists being trimmable but they also have floor trusses now that have trimmable ends.
Yeah and a close up shot of the installation of a web stiffener would have been handy. I didn't notice any while the flooring was being glued down.
@8:35: Saddle fasteners are proud, where column fasteners are reccessed. This detail seems odd to me. Just wondering, how this was finished? Was the column built out with a furring strip, or was the finish drywall facing interrupted, or was the material from the back of the drywall removed to accommodate the fasteners and saddle?
probably crown moulding after your comment of material removed from back
What are levels of out gassing with the adhesive content of these materials? Concerned about impact to clients with allergies and chemical sensitivities.
Impossible to answer generally. Every product i have ever seen (denmark) is marked with what glue is used. OSB haven't contained formaldehyde in years (other than natural content in the wood). Some people are very sensitive, but they can be sensitive to the out gassing of natural lumber
@@Atramentum1 natural wood does not outgas. Natural wood that has been inundated with chemicals at the sawmill before processing does outgas. It is too bad they do that. It seems more and more people are reacting to these chemicals.
This is interesting seeing an engineer on a courtesy call. Usually an engineer comes out because the architect screwed up the framing detail so bad the framers has to correct it and then have the engineer sign off so could pass inspection.
Par for the course.
With time and money one can build any thing perfectly.
Matt are you gonna do a video on plumming and cabling for you house tru the wood " in Wall" ?
AWESOME CONTENT!
Something to think about.... Gusset plates, glue lam boards, and engineered wood I-joists will give way much faster in a fire.
Hi, regarding plwd infill on window headers to flush out framing: Have you thought of substituting 1/2" rigid board insulation to the warm side?
That's what I'm doing on my current build
7:32 I still feel uneasy about the column, especially when I see that the grouped studs are resting on a horizontal piece, with the 'grain' going the wrong direction. I think a steel column would provide an extra measure of safety and longevity.
I agree. Those bolts take a lot of wood out of the column also.
Eh glue holds the house together... Looks good from my place
You need to use steal beams in that situation, I agree 100%. Rolling the dice is never cool when people are living in that house. Depending on the area, you can get extreme weather, and I have seen some serious failures with the family in the home.
There's nothing wrong with that column resting on that sill plate. That appears to be a Boise Cascade VERSA-STUD for the sill plate which has a max allowable stress perpendicular to the grain of 450 psi. for a bearing surface of 3.5"x7.5" that gives a max of 11,800 lbs. I'm assuming they went with the 5 ply column because they couldn't source the equivalent sized VERSA-LAM column locally or something but Boise Cascade lists the max load for an equivalent monolithic column as 11,025 lbs. The sill plate is rated for the same magnitude of load as the column resting on it.
www.bc.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/versa-stud_2650_1_7_wall_guide_east.pdf
As for the notion that the bolt hole is weakening the column, that's already accounted for. The engineered max loads allow for up to a 3/4" hole to be drilled through the middle 1/3rd of the stud. Is it weaker? Yes. Does it matter? No, the max allowable loads already take that into account regardless of whether or not the hole is there. Even as far as extreme weather is concerned, this is an interior column and not part of a shear wall, it's not going to see a substantial increase in load even if a category 5 hurricane hits the house, that would mostly increase load on other portions of the framing.
Structurally this is completely fine and putting a steel column there instead would make it a headache to try and hide behind drywall.
Yeah, I'm sure the engineer was just doing it all seat-of-the-pants: "That looks about right." Good job looking out, guys.