Contacted them already. I didn't know about the R-30. What would YOU fill the large cavity with? Foam/batt/fluff? I would be curious how the close off the joists to keep that R value.
K Tauber I don’t know who your question is directed to but I would have all run electric and water lines then spray closed cell foam. If cost is an issue then batt would be my second choice and loose fill last. I’ve seen a lot of settling with loose fill.
@@Mote78 I'm sorry, I must have hit your thread instead of a new one by mistake. It was for Matt. I too have seen settling with blown. 8" of foam seems a bit steep. ( I don't have much experience with foam) I was looking at doing a R-30 (+) addition/remodel to my house. CIFs were really expensive, so these might do the trick with the R-30 and maybe Zip-R. With the 2.0 sealing method of course.😁
@@TonyMontanaOG wood is about an R value of 1.4/inch. That would make a 12 inch beam about R17. Reasonable yes, but keep that fire burning or it'll get cold. With closed cell foam at R6/inch that same 12 inches would be somewhere around R70.
I don't find myself getting excited about building products that often , but this has changed that. what a great product . I'm building within the next year and this is now in my plan. Thanks Matt
I don’t think this is a cheap solution but it is a good solution and the studs will all be straight. Not possible with dimensional lumber. It will save a lot of labor and a much better home results.
"My guess is you're gonna add a ton of structure strength". " I saw a 2x4 shot out of a cannon at 100 miles an hour into a panel of plywood and spray foam and it like just bounced off". Wow, really great stuff. Your comments are educational, informative and relevant. Keep up the good work.
This has incredible potential in the container home and small dwelling categories. Heating and cooling inefficiencies in this type of building are what cause so many issues, this could solve many. cool vid.
James Shea, your comment about Clive's LED headlamp teardown just popped up on a video I am watching about engineered, internally insulated studs for building homes. I've seen this sort of thing happen before. What the heck is going on with RUclips? Their software has got some serious bugs in it.
@@MD-cd7em , it's worth noting that I did not hear anyone say what type of wood they're using for these engineered studs. Probably not Doug Fir. ( The type of tree that quality "studs" come from, and no it's not some pornstars on-screen name either. If such a person did exist, of course, his motto would be "got wood, will travel.!")😁
I am just a curious viewer from the San Francisco Bay Area. Matt I just,... I really like what I learn from your channel. No need to reply, just know you educate so many men and women with great information and with great energy. Thanks my friend.
I use my thermal imaging camera when doing inspections, and it's amazing how you can see the location of every stud or firring strip when it is hot outside. Those babies conduct so much heat or in the winter cold.
As a firefighter, one concern I have when I see these products come out is, how will they perform under fire conditions? That is usually not discussed in these promotional videos. As a rule, when you go from solid wood construction to web truss or I-beam construction, the materials will fail and collapse much faster in a fire. Lots of firefighters have been caught in structure collapses because of how quickly these structures fail once they start burning. So, I would really want to see some testing of how this would hold up under legitimate fire conditions before I would build with it. Besides that, it looks like a really great product.
Fire study was done on their website. It leads to this page. static1.squarespace.com/static/59cce8bba9db0941ea92e75f/t/59d258c6a803bbde4f0bcc62/1506957510626/16-4787319376DevReport+%28002%29+UL+Testing+of+Tstud.pdf
@@johnSR32 If fire gets to the studs it over...the only concern would be the firefighters...its all about the envelop in building..dealing with the first hour for the occupants to get away safely...thats it....Oh yes I agree how healthy is your home...well thats the million dollar question.
You make excellent videos. You use a lot of industry terms, but that's the point. You're making these for the industry crowd but they hold the attention of general public viewers. That's not easy to do. Congratulations
i am a builder also and although I have not done this I have seen many houses built with 2x4(r13) walls with 2 inches( r10) of insulating rigid foam on the exterior walls thus greatly reducing thermal bridging and is very economical. In my area I use 24 oc and 1 inch of foam under synthetic stucco.
I dont understand how this isnt the standard here in Vancouver, as the city has been driving towards these kinds of numbers for the last 3 years. (we are framing 2x8 just to meet R-value compliance for instance)
@@avid0g My only concern for the Vancouver market is how this material can be recycled when a house gets torn down in the future. AS of this time, 90% of a demolished home needs to go through the recycling process... spray foam is vastly frowned on as a result here. (and yes the system is flawed...)
@@avid0g I couldnt agree with you more. BUT, trying to convince the clients is something else. The actual house here in vancouver typicaly represents only 5-10% of the value of the property.... the land is the value. We have unfortunately torn down houses that are less then 6 years old, to build to a clients specification. They own the plot, they decide how they spend their money.
These also exist in Norway! My house has a grand total of 4 of these closed cell foam studs, and 10 inch thick closed cell walls built between a top and a bottom plate of the same kind of insulated stud. Super awesome stuff! 👏👍
Good to see this has been developed. When I built my house in 1986 I did a similar thing that saved tons on my heating bill. I had the package framed with 2x4 on 16 centres, then added a 1.5" wide strip of 1.5" thick foil-coated styro (R 10.9) to all inside stud, sill and plate surfaces on all exterior walls. That gave me the same depth as 2x6 framing and room for R20 in the wall cavity. Total cost -- around $400 and a few 3" roofing nails! I contemplated patenting the idea, but never did -- sadly! Some said there would be a problem with nail-pops in the drywall, but there never was. Used 3" gyproc screws throughout. The t-stud method will surely cost a lot more than regular studs, but likely still a good idea.
T-stud is a wood version of the structural steel frame that's studied in universities under Mechanical engineering programs etc. It seems to be a good application. Congratulations
I am confused about the studs on their sides. Typically the structural steel frame cannot be used in this manner(lying a truss on its side) as it distributes the loads in the worst way. So Wouldn’t this be similar to stacking dual 2x3s on their sides?
Awesome product! It was good to see you and Erik Cortina form Texas Barndos swapping experience. Both of y’all have a high level of perfection and it shows in your builds.
I now have a new favorite youtube channel. Matt is awesome and the information he shares is interesting and useful. I had no idea a lot of these technologies existed. Thanks Matt!
*Great invention.* It's like the insulated concrete panel sandwich that the northern counties use for construction. Such nice modules will make housing more comfortable and more affordable to maintain. We can be happy about that !
Great product. Go big and use the bigger one (8"), Rockwool, 24" on center. Never ever use treated wood, not even on sylls. With the wider wood u can now mount the drywall vertical like we do in europe.
Ok, so where i live. We don't use treated for sills. We know that concrete is wet, but not that wet. It is moist. If you put wood on concrete the wood sucks the moist from the concrete and over time, If the wood cant dry fast, you get mold. In old leaky houses that was no problem. In new houses it is. Treated wood sucks moist the same way normal wood does. The only difference is that the treated wood don't care if it have water. It will not start to degrade. Not only that. Wood above the sill, will start to suck water from the treated sill to. When the treated sill gets water, it will start to smell. And some say the off gases are bad for your health. So, what to do? Here we use a sill paper/rubber under the sill. As a seal from concrete to wood (sill). That way you break the direct contact wood/concrete. The concrete will have to dry to the sides. And the wood is protected from the moist concrete.
That's really a good deal. The efficiency you gain will pay for itself in durability and energy savings quite well. I was expecting a lot bigger price difference. Thanks for sharing this, Matt.
There have been steel framing studs made in this style for at least 35 years. My dad built a house in Austin Tx back in 1985 with foam block exterior walls and framed with these truss style 2x steel wall studs, floor joists and roof trusses... great fire discount on homeowner insurance!!!
Matt, cool video thanks for sharing. Being a Canadian and now living in Houston I cant understand why some of the houses are so poorly insulated. Unreal!!!!
I'm the exact same. I grew up in northern BC and Houston homes baffle me. 2x4 studs and a bedsheet for insulation and they wonder why the electric bill is $600 in the summer.
When I worked for a spray foam company here in Bluffton, SC, I actually designed something like this in the field. It is so awesome to see a person actually have the funds to produce it!!!
If an Energy Modelling will be performed, it will be evident that the best way to combat thermal bridging is from the outside. 1 1/2"or 2" xps rigid insulation (CI) with a rainscreen system for exterior finish is sufficient while at the same time, that pushes the Dew Point to the sheathing line. I still think that keeping the extreme cold temp. away from the sheathing is still currently the best at the moment.
@@jeffreyaderholdt2359 The building standard in Europe is insulation from the outside. The moisture issue is addressed by placing a vapor barrier around the wooden structure before any insulation is placed. And the recommended insulation thickness is pretty huge. 20 cm polyisocyanurate usually. That and the vapor barrier do a lot against moisture. Then again I'm unfamiliar with what happens in American climates with that system, so take this with a grain of salt.
External insulation is good but XPS or foil/plastic faced foam sheets (taped) are effectively a vapour barrier. The thickness required to keep the sheathing side below the dew point depends on the climate zone and the thickness of inboard insulation. Very common up here to use 1" or 1.5" exterior foam sheets over batt and 6 mil poly on the inside wall. So a double vapour barrier nono with the sheathing below the dew point in winter. It is safer to use a vapour permeable exterior insulation like rockwool board. One can use really thick foam, but then fastening siding becomes more complicated.
@@jamesroscoe7555 From where I am, the min. required for residential exterior wall remains R-20 (6" batt will take that to R21). With the addition of 1,5"xps in front of the permeable Bldg. paper over sheathing will take that wall to R28.5 thus combat Thermal Bridging at the rim board level (2nd floor) all the way to foundation. This system is very much applied once using steel stud. 1.5" xps is not required on wood framing as per Ashrae 90.2. 90.1 can also be applied for low rise and commercial where an optional Mechanical System Performance Path allowing HVAC system efficiency tradeoffs based on TPSR. And yes, clarification to prescriptive envelope performance data tables must be met in different zone from where I am.
Really think this is a great innovation. All other new building products that try to eliminate the thermal bridges have their downsides, such as SIPs that are terrible if you need to make changes to your house after construction is finished. This product really combines the flexibility of framing with good energy performance.
As a finish carpenter in always looking a products like this. What he needs to do is get it into Lowe’s or Home Depot. That’s what will change the industry first! Drive costs down and save us all.
Lowes and home depot? No one should build a house out of a box store... higher prices in bulk and limited length availability Gotta get it into lumber yards
About time I see a product like this. I've thought about the same thing and many other similar ideas, decades ago. Great product, long overdue. Also, noticed another detail here that has multiple advantages, the vertical sheathing as opposed to horizontal.
@@sethfoster4535I thought of this over 1,000 years ago in a past life....then rethought of it when I was 12, forgot about it, then remembered rethinking of it 10 minutes before watching this video. Coincidence? I think not!
Because knowing this makes you a better conversationalist with other people. One time at an office party a small group of men stopped me and asked a house building question and I knew the correct answer (go girls). I am very girly , never would build a house but love learning. 🤔🤗
@@juliherron8991 You go, (girly) Girl! Looks can only take you so far, but a girl/woman with an interest in, and curiosity of, many things can make life a pleasure to be with -- for decades!
Yes, but isolation should always be companied with an cost/benefit analysis. Probably not mention because it is a sponsored video. This is NOT a new technology (outside US). In my country it is only used as an last option because of price. :)
Håkon Håkonsen They mentioned the cost difference in the video. $1500 more on the average 2500 SQFT house and $5000 on a larger more complex house. That’s change for a house you’d plan to live in 20-30 years.
@@JsGarage I've been a builder for 3 decades; I bet a million dollars, I could take you into a house framed with those crazy studs and insulated and a normally insulated house and you wouldn't note a difference...The insulation advantage is negligible, if at all...Everyone wants to reinvent the wheel...On the east coast we have 3 cold months and 3 hot...meh...2X4 or 6's worked fine for decades...
godbluffvdgg For the price difference especially as I said over 20-30 years I’ll take the new shit thanks though. Along with it comes a stronger construction. I think trying to notice something from a simple walk through is the issue as well. These will be something that is appreciated over the life of the home.
godbluffvdgg Not sure what east coast states you’re talking about but we have a couple cold months and 5 maybe 6 months that usually require AC where I live. There is plenty of room to improve on home insulation.
Wider flange for plywood/sheetrock, wiring/plumbing is much easier, better heat/cooling retention, 4x's as strong and the list goes on. Only 1500 more for a 2500 square ft house, sounds like this guy is on to something here !
What sells me is the straightness compared to the lumber I can buy locally, and being able to use less expensive internal bat insulation instead of exterior foam board. Living in a part of Canada where the national retailers gouge us for crap lumber with a 30+% defect rate AND with low shipping costs from Minnesota, I can see this catching on with the custom builders. They already use a lot of engineered lumber products. The whole-subdivision builders still seem to think insulation is a communist plot.
@@michaeljones5068 He did say on the average house in North America (2500 sq ft), it would add $1000-$1500. But I imagine the energy savings (and possibly labour due to the reduced weight) should more than offset that extra cost.
@@michaeljones5068 14:25 to 14:55 he mentions the extra cost to compare, actual pricing per piece will depend on volume of order per what sizes you request and your delivery location and any added delivery requirements.
It wont give as high of an r value with dense packed fiberglass or cellulose inbetween the studs. But it would still be far better then regular framing!
I've watched this video twice. I was a framer and carpenter turned doctor and always had housing design, construction and energy efficiency in mind relating to all different construction and architectural and design and geographical differences. I would and probably build a home in the next year using this product. Am I impressed, Yes? Makes sense in all ways with energy savings. Please give me feedback if anyone sees disadvantages, besides the slight $ cost over 2x6 frame construction. I don't understand all the jargon re: numbers related to fire, safety, toxicity. Looking for feedback. SH
alex banks I’m skeptical, everyone else in here seams to think this is a miracle yet when I search it to see if it’s been tested by the industry where they run all sorts of tests , can’t find it . Do you really think that there is as much of a difference in r value as they are saying or weather it really makes much of a difference ? One top plate , 24 inch centers , man I don’t know about this , also what about. In areas where your not allowed to do 24 centers and stuff . For me there is way to many un answered questions
@@vincenttavani6380 yesterday -26 degree celcius...very balmy indeed :) when writing this its only -12 so i can go out without hat :) this years record here in SOUTHERN finland -34.7 celcius
@@jkarra2334 Honestly you all just have to migrate South. We need not fight wars over the land anymore - 34.7 is hellish, if hell used cold instead of heat for the torture! Man, I have incredible respect for people living in Northern climes. I do wonder though how many would remain if they learned of ''the bus south" :-P
I love me some great R-Value! Some people go for the aesthetic’s, I go for the structure and comfort. I know what I’m going to be using to build my micro home.
Lumber is so expensive right now, can't imagine what these would cost. Although, they do offer more for energy efficiency. Tough call if your trying to build now and have a tight budget.
Many of the modern siding products call for a 16 inch center nailing pattern for their warranty requirements . Excellent product for the northern climates to be sure regardless .
I dream of R30 walls! But most contractors think that’s ridiculous waste, won’t do it. Some of the ridiculous responses from SO many contractors, lead me to think there’s NO education happening in industry, beyond a very few. The Olympia, WA region (including at least 4 counties nearby), seems glutted by shady or ignorant contractors of every kind. Not only do they propose inefficient options clouded with promises of rebates many can’t access, but try to dissuade owners from installing good options (like a metal roof). Ask for R60 attic insulation, they stop @ R40, if that. Don’t get me started on repair contractors..eeesh! It’s so refreshing to see innovative, good use of tech, & demos that help make good sense of it.
I don't get it, hell don't really believe it. Customer wants a better more costly (labor/material cost) material, simply up the price. Sure give an opinion, but customer gets what they pay for.
@@MFCSTUDIOS It is independent testing done by a lab in Madison, WI. Not trying to defend T-studs but all the data is there including letters of certification.
this is a cool product, I will consider this on my next build. I wonder if they're working on an LVL replacement for carrying heavier loads (as apposed to using the studs on gabled walls).
In 1980 I started building houses with a 8" dble studded wall. Studs on 24" centers- both inner wall and outer, Advanced framing on structural outer wall. This is an improvement to 2x6 but not as good as dbl studded
@@jrbisc99 I suspect that the Dbl stud done with advanced framing is close to the 2x6 T-stud framing cost, particularly how the framing is done in video. My system has 27-28 R value through whole house with exception of headers which will be a little less. If I were building houses now I would look real close at the 2x8 T-stud system as a being better than my old DBL 2x4 wall . One reason is I suspect that the T-studs have fewer defective/ crooked studs so less waste. I would want my walls to approach R 30. Header details for load bearing walls would need some thinking on
In northern climates the insulation between them should make your life easier. No drilling necessary, you just poke the wire through the foam, maybe use a screwdriver to make a small hole for 12/2 or 14/2. Even BX cable.
@@vinnys72gtx Why are you installing anything in the exterior walls except an occasional vent or drain? Still it's not overly difficult to avoid the dowels.
The T-studs seem pretty cool. I love the cost factor. (On a kitchen extension to the house I mention below, I went larger foundations, 2x6 instead of 2x4 All shear walls, and a bootleg sprinkler system $100k project increased cost about $500. Some of the best upgrades are not that expensive. Always do your own figures, then you won't be leaving out the copper for the PEC junk) I don't know about just strapping the butted top plates. The code specs I know of (I'm old and haven't done much of this in many years) double top plate with a minimum 4' overlap of each of the top boards. I know exactly why this is in the code. 1992 Northridge Earthquake, my home in Los Angeles about 20-30 miles from the epicenter. A few plaster cracks, but above one door jam the top plate buckled a few inches. In the attic it's easy to see that the overlap of the top plates was less than 8". No where else in the house did this happen. So unless I'm missing something, okay that strap connection won't come apart, but it can buckle causing damage that doesn't need to happen. The whole 'but you have earthquakes..' I find a bit of a bogus argument, lots of things can happen to a house, the structural upgrades, (most of which have 'Simpson' as part of 'em) aren't expensive, aren't time consuming... In Los Angeles, hurricane ties to the roof were not required 25 years ago. What's it take to properly strap the roof structure? That was another of the upgrades. Great videos. Even if I'm being cranky they're well considered and are always interesting. Thanks.
Same, code where I live is minimum 2' overlap on double top plate but 4' recommended. Of course codes can and do change when new products come to market.
he said they were 2x3's but the measurement showed 2x2.5, i feel like you are sacrificing load bearing for increased insulation. I guess it depends on situation. I personally am opting out of a lot of wood material. Brick houses last forever and have great insulation values.
Love your content and productions. Just great. But, in this video I wanted to see how you toe-nail these t-studs to the sole plates. Seems that unless attached by pneumatic wire nailing, the penetration of traditional nails would easily split these.
When I see snow melting patterns on a roof, I can tell where the rafters are. I see the snow melting away in between the wooden rafters. Wherever the rafters are the snow melts away more slowly. Is not thermal resistance involved more than is being described.?
What kind of price difference are we talking here.? I’m thinking I’d rather use any extra cash on a nice safe steel roof. Steel siding too. I’d place fire/heat materials in between the outside walls/rafters. Okay, I’m concerned about high winds too. I want steel pilings driven down to bedrock and strapping down the entire buildings structure. I’d prefer 18 gauge studs rather than wood because a good welder can follow up the carpenters and weld the entire structure together into a single unit.
I have my doubts about "dry stacking" these studs to make load bearing headers. Regardless, I wish these entrepreneurs success. More power to them for trying to do something better.
Matt, Tstuds do offer an interesting thermal benefit. Class A fire resistance is reasonable. How about toxicity of combustion products. Thanks for covering this system.
Yeah, usually that foam insulation stuff is nothing but highly combustible kindling. Don't know that I'd want to go that route. Doesn't take much to light that stuff on fire vs trying to light a 2 x 4 stud on fire.
@@Helloverlord fair enough, but neither is any insulated foundation. We typically have to board any foam insulated wall because of gases in the case of a fire.Even in an unfinished basement. I dont think they like seeing any exposed foam because of off gases in the case of a fire. This application is minimal compared to the way construction is going. Foam is becoming quite a popular choice
Without UV a,b or c rays, will last for centuries. The outgassing of chemicals in the foam, stops completely after 10 days. The finished product will be in the warehouse, loaded and shipped long after any fumes are left. Testing meets ASTM specs and published.
Would think the controlled environment at the factory would make for properly catalyzed foam ,plus the time from manufacture to install allows for some off-gassing. I read that most spray foam issues are caused by installer error in adjusting to environment variables at the time the foam is sprayed.
@@jamesooten3659 And that is why we have inspectors and building departments and courts of law. The main problem she had was hiring out of state contractors that weren't bonded in the state she lives in. Oopsy.
@@iamjackalope Where I live, there are no zoning laws, no building permits required, or building inspectors. The only exception to the rule being homes financed by The Veteran's Adm., who inspect the job site weekly. The Electric Company inspects your power pole set-up and from the meter to the breaker box before they'll turn the power on. The water company inspects the pipe from the meter to the foundation wall for leaks and that the pipe will be covered by 18" of dirt. That leaves plenty of room for errors and dishonest contractors. So basically you have to be your own building inspector here.
30 years ago, I came up with a crazy idea being a carpenter apprentice know it all I built my first house that I still live in, a basic 3 bedroom bungalow Instead of framing with 2"x6" s, I framed the exterior walls with 2 x 2"x4" walls (actually 1.5" x 3.5") walls, staggered the studs, with the plates 11" apart, To allow 2 x 2x6" of insulation made for 2"x6"walls to go in between as 2"x 6"s are actually 1.5"x5.5" wide So one solid blanket of 12" thick insulation R-40, in between 2 x 2"x4" 2 x R-12 walls meaning ZERO thermal bridging So the exterior wall is actually 18" wide with ZERO thermal bridging, and 2 x 2" layers of styrofoam sm = R-20 over the 7/16" sheeting on the outside, so all together R- 84 , covered with solid clay brick, using Portland cement vs masonry, a trick a mason told me And R-160 in the attic, with the access to the attic at each gabel end, I made my own vents that are hinged, so no hole puncturing the building envelope in the ceiling I guess I got a little carried away, Lol
@@keith_dixon With screws or nails, I used screws Seriously, you should be able to figure this out, just like old houses with thick stone walls or triple bricks recessed with a window seat Like this only my sides are angled, to let in more light in You get the idea i.pinimg.com/originals/ce/e5/c7/cee5c77de725ca2a3ceae8f1debc220d.jpg
this is so obvious once you see it. genius. Hope he has a patent on it. @ Matt. Could you do a vid on how to recycle/dispose of foam insulation? This is one major topic why is still prever rocksheet insulation over foam.
I am curious on how well you can run plumbing through this type of wall. As a plumber it looks like it would be a problem running waste arms and the vertical stacks.
The fact that they are an engineered product means that most likely you won't be able to notch them hardly at all. Just like TGI truss's you could be limited to designated penetrations (knock outs) so I imagine you plumbers won't think to highly of them. The electricians on the other hand....
If the foam IS biodegradable, how do you stop it from degrading BEFORE you need to dispose of it? Sometimes the fact that nothing can eat it is a good thing. There was a class-action lawsuit about widespread rodent damage to the wiring of (Honda or Toyota, not sure which) cars because the insulation was soy based, meaning the rodents loved the taste. The repair involves wrapping the wires with special electrical tape laced with Capsaicin (what makes peppers hot, also active ingredient in pepper spray) so the rodents don't want to chew it anymore.
@@44R0Ndin Lots of things degrade when exposed to the elements, foam insulation which is generally enclosed and on the inside of things, like houses, doesn't need to be exposed.
Those foams are all UV-degradable... No biotics required, just sunlight. Cement isn't biodegradable, nor are shingles. What is your actual concern? You planning on tearing down your house every few years and throwing it away?
Fun fact, in the late 50's all the way up to the late 60's and even into the 70's they built a lot of walk in coolers with wood framing and wood paneling before they figured out much more efficient solutions.
I love the tstud inventor, hes professional but he's wowed by his own creation. Lol Passion like that really gives you the impression that he's personally invested in a great product. Some amazing stats
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
This is why I subscribe to Matt’s series. Such informative, progressive information about smart construction. Love it. Great job Matt 👍
Thanks Craig! Appreciate your support.
Contacted them already. I didn't know about the R-30. What would YOU fill the large cavity with? Foam/batt/fluff?
I would be curious how the close off the joists to keep that R value.
K Tauber
I don’t know who your question is directed to but I would have all run electric and water lines then spray closed cell foam. If cost is an issue then batt would be my second choice and loose fill last. I’ve seen a lot of settling with loose fill.
@@Mote78 I'm sorry, I must have hit your thread instead of a new one by mistake. It was for Matt. I too have seen settling with blown. 8" of foam seems a bit steep. ( I don't have much experience with foam) I was looking at doing a R-30 (+) addition/remodel to my house. CIFs were really expensive, so these might do the trick with the R-30 and maybe Zip-R. With the 2.0 sealing method of course.😁
what a waste of money just but for foil face 1 inch foam all around under the siding then tape the seams and around the windows
This owner is an engineer. I like listening to guys that talk numbers.
yeah then he just cant help appreciate how cool it is when he shows the 2x8 and hes just like "so that, thats sick" haha this guys great
These are the videos that make "The Build Show" quality. Step change in building is where it's at.
A thick wood beam insulates fine. They build log cabins from wood in the coldest parts of the world and have no issues.
You’re bs’ing and you know it.
@@TonyMontanaOG wood is about an R value of 1.4/inch. That would make a 12 inch beam about R17. Reasonable yes, but keep that fire burning or it'll get cold. With closed cell foam at R6/inch that same 12 inches would be somewhere around R70.
I don't find myself getting excited about building products that often , but this has changed that. what a great product . I'm building within the next year and this is now in my plan. Thanks Matt
Did you end up using them?
I don’t think this is a cheap solution but it is a good solution and the studs will all be straight. Not possible with dimensional lumber. It will save a lot of labor and a much better home results.
I was not expecting Brian to say "that's sick"
Welcome to my neighborhood, Matt. It was a real treat to see you up in Elk River, right where I grew up. Come to Minnesota more often!
Yeah, Matt! Come back anytime and show us how to keep warm in -40F winters!
(Roseville, represent!)
@420 Friendly As someone not from Roseville would say. LOL
"My guess is you're gonna add a ton of structure strength". " I saw a 2x4 shot out of a cannon at 100 miles an hour into a panel of plywood and spray foam and it like just bounced off". Wow, really great stuff. Your comments are educational, informative and relevant. Keep up the good work.
You will not be adding structural strength.
This has incredible potential in the container home and small dwelling categories. Heating and cooling inefficiencies in this type of building are what cause so many issues, this could solve many. cool vid.
only problem if it catches fire
First I've heard of the T Stud, totally impressed. Welcome to Minnesota Matt, many of us up here follow you and love your content, keep it coming!!!
A nice bonus is that wide nailing surface when splitting studs with a panel. Seems like a good upgrade when hanging some of the thicker Zip-R sheets
James Shea, your comment about Clive's LED headlamp teardown just popped up on a video I am watching about engineered, internally insulated studs for building homes. I've seen this sort of thing happen before. What the heck is going on with RUclips? Their software has got some serious bugs in it.
IF THEY DONT SPLIT!...ASK A CARPENTER
@@MD-cd7em , it's worth noting that I did not hear anyone say what type of wood they're using for these engineered studs. Probably not Doug Fir. ( The type of tree that quality "studs" come from, and no it's not some pornstars on-screen name either. If such a person did exist, of course, his motto would be "got wood, will travel.!")😁
@@MD-cd7em And split they will. Especially if they are kiln dried hem fir or yellow pine as most 2 x 3's are.
I have literally fantasized about a framing system like this, and I’m very happy someone is making it a reality!
Thank you for bringing this technology to light! So thrilling to see the pace of innovation accelerating!
$$$
It will be cheaper as wood costs rise. Which is exactly what the real goal of these are.
I am just a curious viewer from the San Francisco Bay Area. Matt I just,... I really like what I learn from your channel. No need to reply, just know you educate so many men and women with great information and with great energy. Thanks my friend.
I use my thermal imaging camera when doing inspections, and it's amazing how you can see the location of every stud or firring strip when it is hot outside. Those babies conduct so much heat or in the winter cold.
Only heat conducts,
How do the houses look at night? Inverse to what they look, when the sun is burning?
12:54 "That's sick" Understatement of the year right there.
Zac M immediately caught that XD
As a firefighter, one concern I have when I see these products come out is, how will they perform under fire conditions? That is usually not discussed in these promotional videos. As a rule, when you go from solid wood construction to web truss or I-beam construction, the materials will fail and collapse much faster in a fire. Lots of firefighters have been caught in structure collapses because of how quickly these structures fail once they start burning. So, I would really want to see some testing of how this would hold up under legitimate fire conditions before I would build with it. Besides that, it looks like a really great product.
Fire study was done on their website. It leads to this page. static1.squarespace.com/static/59cce8bba9db0941ea92e75f/t/59d258c6a803bbde4f0bcc62/1506957510626/16-4787319376DevReport+%28002%29+UL+Testing+of+Tstud.pdf
@@johnSR32 If fire gets to the studs it over...the only concern would be the firefighters...its all about the envelop in building..dealing with the first hour for the occupants to get away safely...thats it....Oh yes I agree how healthy is your home...well thats the million dollar question.
That kinda info doesn't serve well in this sales pitch of snake oil
I'm not a firefighter but I have talked to a few that say new houses are far more dangerous than an old one. They go up so fast.
@@JSAFIXIT my understanding is that that is primarily due to the use of synthetics in furnishings
You make excellent videos. You use a lot of industry terms, but that's the point. You're making these for the industry crowd but they hold the attention of general public viewers. That's not easy to do. Congratulations
i am a builder also and although I have not done this I have seen many houses built with 2x4(r13) walls with 2 inches( r10) of insulating rigid foam on the exterior walls thus greatly reducing thermal bridging and is very economical. In my area I use 24 oc and 1 inch of foam under synthetic stucco.
An R30 3x8, with more nailing surface, more rigid, straighter, lighter, less waste... sick, absolutely SICK!
I dont understand how this isnt the standard here in Vancouver, as the city has been driving towards these kinds of numbers for the last 3 years. (we are framing 2x8 just to meet R-value compliance for instance)
@@nevar108
The Tstud provides that extra level for customers who are looking beyond mandates.
@@avid0g My only concern for the Vancouver market is how this material can be recycled when a house gets torn down in the future. AS of this time, 90% of a demolished home needs to go through the recycling process... spray foam is vastly frowned on as a result here. (and yes the system is flawed...)
@@nevar108
The totally obvious answer is to not recycle the studs. Reuse them. Reuse entire houses or relocate them. Why demolish?
@@avid0g I couldnt agree with you more. BUT, trying to convince the clients is something else. The actual house here in vancouver typicaly represents only 5-10% of the value of the property.... the land is the value. We have unfortunately torn down houses that are less then 6 years old, to build to a clients specification. They own the plot, they decide how they spend their money.
These also exist in Norway! My house has a grand total of 4 of these closed cell foam studs, and 10 inch thick closed cell walls built between a top and a bottom plate of the same kind of insulated stud. Super awesome stuff! 👏👍
EXACTLY...NOT A NEW CONCEPT
Can you please post or PM me the company the name? I'm curious about what you are using over there and would like to look at their products. Thanks!
Good to see this has been developed. When I built my house in 1986 I did a similar thing that saved tons on my heating bill.
I had the package framed with 2x4 on 16 centres, then added a 1.5" wide strip of 1.5" thick foil-coated styro (R 10.9) to all inside stud, sill and plate surfaces on all exterior walls. That gave me the same depth as 2x6 framing and room for R20 in the wall cavity. Total cost -- around $400 and a few 3" roofing nails! I contemplated patenting the idea, but never did -- sadly! Some said there would be a problem with nail-pops in the drywall, but there never was. Used 3" gyproc screws throughout. The t-stud method will surely cost a lot more than regular studs, but likely still a good idea.
Hey know how to fix nail pops??? glue the sheets! like everywhere else in the world. Sadly Americans are very behind the times
T-stud is a wood version of the structural steel frame that's studied in universities under Mechanical engineering programs etc. It seems to be a good application. Congratulations
I am confused about the studs on their sides. Typically the structural steel frame cannot be used in this manner(lying a truss on its side) as it distributes the loads in the worst way. So Wouldn’t this be similar to stacking dual 2x3s on their sides?
Awesome product! It was good to see you and Erik Cortina form Texas Barndos swapping experience. Both of y’all have a high level of perfection and it shows in your builds.
The inventor was pure business right up until the 2x8, then went street in his excitement.
One of the best replies on here. lol
That was sick
I now have a new favorite youtube channel. Matt is awesome and the information he shares is interesting and useful. I had no idea a lot of these technologies existed. Thanks Matt!
*Great invention.* It's like the insulated concrete panel sandwich that the northern counties use for construction.
Such nice modules will make housing more comfortable and more affordable to maintain. We can be happy about that !
EXACTLY...SAME CONCEPT..NOTHING NEW
SAME AS DOUBLE WALL CONCEPT..
Perfect timing!
I am specking out a complete Cottage rebuild and really hope availability isn’t going to be an issue.
Great product. Go big and use the bigger one (8"), Rockwool, 24" on center. Never ever use treated wood, not even on sylls. With the wider wood u can now mount the drywall vertical like we do in europe.
@@72strand , why not use treated wood, at least for the sills? Fastener corrosion?
Ok, so where i live. We don't use treated for sills. We know that concrete is wet, but not that wet. It is moist. If you put wood on concrete the wood sucks the moist from the concrete and over time, If the wood cant dry fast, you get mold. In old leaky houses that was no problem. In new houses it is. Treated wood sucks moist the same way normal wood does. The only difference is that the treated wood don't care if it have water. It will not start to degrade. Not only that. Wood above the sill, will start to suck water from the treated sill to. When the treated sill gets water, it will start to smell. And some say the off gases are bad for your health. So, what to do? Here we use a sill paper/rubber under the sill. As a seal from concrete to wood (sill). That way you break the direct contact wood/concrete. The concrete will have to dry to the sides. And the wood is protected from the moist concrete.
That's really a good deal. The efficiency you gain will pay for itself in durability and energy savings quite well. I was expecting a lot bigger price difference. Thanks for sharing this, Matt.
2x3s are pretty cheap and once you make a machine to do the doweling, it shouldn't cost too much. I just wonder what adhesive they use on the dowels.
@@nicodemus7784 Matt said it's a polyurethane glue on his Instagram IIRC.
@GS thx. wonder how well that stuff holds up over the years.
There have been steel framing studs made in this style for at least 35 years. My dad built a house in Austin Tx back in 1985 with foam block exterior walls and framed with these truss style 2x steel wall studs, floor joists and roof trusses... great fire discount on homeowner insurance!!!
I am impressed with the strength of these TStuds. Interesting.
Matt, cool video thanks for sharing. Being a Canadian and now living in Houston I cant understand why some of the houses are so poorly insulated. Unreal!!!!
I'm the exact same. I grew up in northern BC and Houston homes baffle me. 2x4 studs and a bedsheet for insulation and they wonder why the electric bill is $600 in the summer.
When I worked for a spray foam company here in Bluffton, SC, I actually designed something like this in the field. It is so awesome to see a person actually have the funds to produce it!!!
What spray foam company did you work for?
If an Energy Modelling will be performed, it will be evident that the best way to combat thermal bridging is from the outside. 1 1/2"or 2" xps rigid insulation (CI) with a rainscreen system for exterior finish is sufficient while at the same time, that pushes the Dew Point to the sheathing line. I still think that keeping the extreme cold temp. away from the sheathing is still currently the best at the moment.
This creates a moisture mold potential. Check the research at cchrc.org
@@jeffreyaderholdt2359 The building standard in Europe is insulation from the outside. The moisture issue is addressed by placing a vapor barrier around the wooden structure before any insulation is placed. And the recommended insulation thickness is pretty huge. 20 cm polyisocyanurate usually. That and the vapor barrier do a lot against moisture. Then again I'm unfamiliar with what happens in American climates with that system, so take this with a grain of salt.
External insulation is good but XPS or foil/plastic faced foam sheets (taped) are effectively a vapour barrier. The thickness required to keep the sheathing side below the dew point depends on the climate zone and the thickness of inboard insulation. Very common up here to use 1" or 1.5" exterior foam sheets over batt and 6 mil poly on the inside wall. So a double vapour barrier nono with the sheathing below the dew point in winter. It is safer to use a vapour permeable exterior insulation like rockwool board. One can use really thick foam, but then fastening siding becomes more complicated.
@@jamesroscoe7555 From where I am, the min. required for residential exterior wall remains R-20 (6" batt will take that to R21). With the addition of 1,5"xps in front of the permeable Bldg. paper over sheathing will take that wall to R28.5 thus combat Thermal Bridging at the rim board level (2nd floor) all the way to foundation.
This system is very much applied once using steel stud. 1.5" xps is not required on wood framing as per Ashrae 90.2.
90.1 can also be applied for low rise and commercial where an optional Mechanical System Performance Path allowing HVAC system efficiency tradeoffs based on TPSR.
And yes, clarification to prescriptive envelope performance data tables must be met in different zone from where I am.
Matt, thanks for posting, that was one of the coolest videos I have seen on here!!!
In 1986 my dad built our house using 2x8 top and bottom plates in the exterior walls. We then staggered 2x4 studs 16" OC with r13 insulation.
Excellent thinking! And, It's a cheaper way to achieve the same effect as these high-tech studs.
Really think this is a great innovation. All other new building products that try to eliminate the thermal bridges have their downsides, such as SIPs that are terrible if you need to make changes to your house after construction is finished. This product really combines the flexibility of framing with good energy performance.
As a finish carpenter in always looking a products like this. What he needs to do is get it into Lowe’s or Home Depot. That’s what will change the industry first! Drive costs down and save us all.
But he mighg only be able to make a 500 thousand a year their going to want millions always gonna be outa stock hes gota grow first
Lowes and home depot?
No one should build a house out of a box store... higher prices in bulk and limited length availability
Gotta get it into lumber yards
@@michaelbarrella3043 higher prices in bulk? Thats the opposite lol
@@jordanlittle5391 They have higher bulk prices.. Did I really need to correct that? Lol
@@michaelbarrella3043 not here they dont lol more u buy more u save contractors also get 10% off sticker
About time I see a product like this. I've thought about the same thing and many other similar ideas, decades ago.
Great product, long overdue.
Also, noticed another detail here that has multiple advantages, the vertical sheathing as opposed to horizontal.
This product reminded me that I too have not only thought of the same thing, but many other similar ideas, decades ago.
@@sethfoster4535I thought of this over 1,000 years ago in a past life....then rethought of it when I was 12, forgot about it, then remembered rethinking of it 10 minutes before watching this video. Coincidence? I think not!
Why did I watch this all the way through? I don't even build houses...
Because knowing this makes you a better conversationalist with other people. One time at an office party a small group of men stopped me and asked a house building question and I knew the correct answer (go girls). I am very girly , never would build a house but love learning. 🤔🤗
Randall Rodriguez ... because it was interesting
learn something, dude!!!! don't be lazy and start shedding those pounds!!!
@@Edmund_Mallory_Hardgrove AI isn't real
@@juliherron8991 You go, (girly) Girl!
Looks can only take you so far, but a girl/woman with an interest in, and curiosity of, many things can make life a pleasure to be with -- for decades!
This was super cool, loving the technology also loving the old technology of the dowels. Totally awesome and that guy is a genius literally. :)
Excellent invention. You do a great job presenting it, showing us how it's used, and giving lots of great specs.
This is the building technology I'm all about. Great stuff!
Now that is a brilliant product. Thermally breaking studs while making them 4x stronger... whew!
Yes, but isolation should always be companied with an cost/benefit analysis. Probably not mention because it is a sponsored video. This is NOT a new technology (outside US). In my country it is only used as an last option because of price. :)
Håkon Håkonsen They mentioned the cost difference in the video. $1500 more on the average 2500 SQFT house and $5000 on a larger more complex house. That’s change for a house you’d plan to live in 20-30 years.
@@JsGarage I've been a builder for 3 decades; I bet a million dollars, I could take you into a house framed with those crazy studs and insulated and a normally insulated house and you wouldn't note a difference...The insulation advantage is negligible, if at all...Everyone wants to reinvent the wheel...On the east coast we have 3 cold months and 3 hot...meh...2X4 or 6's worked fine for decades...
godbluffvdgg For the price difference especially as I said over 20-30 years I’ll take the new shit thanks though. Along with it comes a stronger construction. I think trying to notice something from a simple walk through is the issue as well. These will be something that is appreciated over the life of the home.
godbluffvdgg Not sure what east coast states you’re talking about but we have a couple cold months and 5 maybe 6 months that usually require AC where I live. There is plenty of room to improve on home insulation.
i was skeptical at first but this system seems to be absolutely top notch
Wider flange for plywood/sheetrock, wiring/plumbing is much easier, better heat/cooling retention, 4x's as strong and the list goes on. Only 1500 more for a 2500 square ft house, sounds like this guy is on to something here !
Definitely!
Won't be long before competitors move in to Jack up the price, or builders charging a midleman premium.
But wont the cost of drywall jump having to use 5/8s everywhere?
don't think the electrician is going to give you a price break
What sells me is the straightness compared to the lumber I can buy locally, and being able to use less expensive internal bat insulation instead of exterior foam board. Living in a part of Canada where the national retailers gouge us for crap lumber with a 30+% defect rate AND with low shipping costs from Minnesota, I can see this catching on with the custom builders. They already use a lot of engineered lumber products. The whole-subdivision builders still seem to think insulation is a communist plot.
Wow I'm sold. For that extra delta cost you are getting so much more! Awesome tech.
he didnt even mention the cost tho
@@michaeljones5068 He did say on the average house in North America (2500 sq ft), it would add $1000-$1500. But I imagine the energy savings (and possibly labour due to the reduced weight) should more than offset that extra cost.
@@michaeljones5068 14:25 to 14:55 he mentions the extra cost to compare, actual pricing per piece will depend on volume of order per what sizes you request and your delivery location and any added delivery requirements.
@@davidslinn5920 Not to mention, l less or no drilling for the rough electrical and top out plumbing.
For a very cold climates normally framed with 2x6's for thick insulation... seems like a good investment.
Hey Matt, your videos are on point, I would think the open stud with blow bib might be interesting.
Thanks Pete
It wont give as high of an r value with dense packed fiberglass or cellulose inbetween the studs. But it would still be far better then regular framing!
I've watched this video twice. I was a framer and carpenter turned doctor and always had housing design, construction and energy efficiency in mind relating to all different construction and architectural and design and geographical differences. I would and probably build a home in the next year using this product. Am I impressed, Yes? Makes sense in all ways with energy savings. Please give me feedback if anyone sees disadvantages, besides the slight $ cost over 2x6 frame construction. I don't understand all the jargon re: numbers related to fire, safety, toxicity. Looking for feedback. SH
Very interesting. I look forward to hearing about how they perform over time and in different climates.
alex banks I’m skeptical, everyone else in here seams to think this is a miracle yet when I search it to see if it’s been tested by the industry where they run all sorts of tests , can’t find it . Do you really think that there is as much of a difference in r value as they are saying or weather it really makes much of a difference ? One top plate , 24 inch centers , man I don’t know about this , also what about. In areas where your not allowed to do 24 centers and stuff . For me there is way to many un answered questions
Stephen Lee
I agree that’s why I would like to see. What’s said about it and how it stands up to the test of time.
This is one of the coolest products you’ve demoed.
Nice "innovation", we have had these here in Finland at least 50+ years... :)
LOL. No kidding. My dad (registered architect) and I framed using our own thermal break members in the '60's here in the US.
Well, when you have your balmy winters, you have to innovate. Or should I say... Finnovate.
@@vincenttavani6380 yesterday -26 degree celcius...very balmy indeed :) when writing this its only -12 so i can go out without hat :) this years record here in SOUTHERN finland -34.7 celcius
@@jkarra2334 Honestly you all just have to migrate South. We need not fight wars over the land anymore - 34.7 is hellish, if hell used cold instead of heat for the torture!
Man, I have incredible respect for people living in Northern climes. I do wonder though how many would remain if they learned of ''the bus south" :-P
MAGA, lmao
This is the second time I've seen the video and definitely want to explore this option when I next build!
Love that the market is producing all of these solutions so in the end builders have an array to choose from to meet future and current trends.
Love the idea, but would love to see some real world testing and effectiveness.
I love me some great R-Value! Some people go for the aesthetic’s, I go for the structure and comfort.
I know what I’m going to be using to build my micro home.
go min 12x24 i went 12x16 with an upstairs with 12/14 pitch so u can stand and almost everyday i cry a little
I love it. The plumbing and eletrical can run without cuts, drilling holes ect. Never let them in with a SAWSALL 😊
Lumber is so expensive right now, can't imagine what these would cost. Although, they do offer more for energy efficiency. Tough call if your trying to build now and have a tight budget.
None of his videos have a budget in mind.
Awesome! How about IR footage of heated homes (one T-Stud, one solid studs) in January? Hot Chocolate!
I was hoping to see this, like he did with that other house he built. Really fascinating perspective.
I too think some IR imagery comparing Tstud to conventional would be a great confirmation of the concept
IR footage: black screen probably
very much need this!
Right on. Prove it.
Many of the modern siding products call for a 16 inch center nailing pattern for their warranty requirements . Excellent product for the northern climates to be sure regardless .
@@jamesooten3659 I agree.
This one of the coolest things I've seen in framing. Super cool! Thanks for the video:)
I dream of R30 walls! But most contractors think that’s ridiculous waste, won’t do it. Some of the ridiculous responses from SO many contractors, lead me to think there’s NO education happening in industry, beyond a very few. The Olympia, WA region (including at least 4 counties nearby), seems glutted by shady or ignorant contractors of every kind. Not only do they propose inefficient options clouded with promises of rebates many can’t access, but try to dissuade owners from installing good options (like a metal roof). Ask for R60 attic insulation, they stop @ R40, if that. Don’t get me started on repair contractors..eeesh!
It’s so refreshing to see innovative, good use of tech, & demos that help make good sense of it.
I don't get it, hell don't really believe it. Customer wants a better more costly (labor/material cost) material, simply up the price. Sure give an opinion, but customer gets what they pay for.
You should get this over to the Hydraulic Channel (RUclips) and test their strength in comparison to regular 2" x 6" studs!
T-studs website has that data.
@@6milesup yes but seeing 3rd party data unrelated to the manufacturer whould be good to see
@@MFCSTUDIOS It is independent testing done by a lab in Madison, WI. Not trying to defend T-studs but all the data is there including letters of certification.
earthly firefly5 is this all you do is rip off quotes and paste them randomly on RUclips? Must not have a life at all!!
earthly firefly5 haha ok 👌 I will continue living what I believe my life is and will be and you just continue quoting random crap and being you
Building a new house. No one from TStud returned my email or my builders contact. Now its too late. It appears the company is not ready to scale.
See my comment here about the roll-your-own inexpensive alternative that's been done for decades.
@@farmalmta is there a simple way to find your comment among 4+ thousands of other comments??
Very interesting. My husband and I are looking at house plans and the T Studs will definitely be look at closely now
this is a cool product, I will consider this on my next build. I wonder if they're working on an LVL replacement for carrying heavier loads (as apposed to using the studs on gabled walls).
In 1980 I started building houses with a 8" dble studded wall. Studs on 24" centers- both inner wall and outer, Advanced framing on structural outer wall. This is an improvement to 2x6 but not as good as dbl studded
Doesn't that cost a lot more than the t-stud method?
@@jrbisc99 I suspect that the Dbl stud done with advanced framing is close to the 2x6 T-stud framing cost, particularly how the framing is done in video. My system has 27-28 R value through whole house with exception of headers which will be a little less. If I were building houses now I would look real close at the 2x8 T-stud system as a being better than my old DBL 2x4 wall . One reason is I suspect that the T-studs have fewer defective/ crooked studs so less waste. I would want my walls to approach R 30. Header details for load bearing walls would need some thinking on
Enter the electrician.
Electrician: hold my beer I'm about to wreck this man's career.
I'm a plumber... and i came w the electrician to tag team this beezy. ..
Exactly
In northern climates the insulation between them should make your life easier. No drilling necessary, you just poke the wire through the foam, maybe use a screwdriver to make a small hole for 12/2 or 14/2. Even BX cable.
@@vinnys72gtx Why are you installing anything in the exterior walls except an occasional vent or drain? Still it's not overly difficult to avoid the dowels.
@@steven7650 bx.... Haven't heard that in a while. I can tell you're old school I like it man
You were right down the road from me! I'm incredibly impressed by this product thanks for sharing!
The T-studs seem pretty cool. I love the cost factor. (On a kitchen extension to the house I mention below, I went larger foundations, 2x6 instead of 2x4 All shear walls, and a bootleg sprinkler system $100k project increased cost about $500. Some of the best upgrades are not that expensive. Always do your own figures, then you won't be leaving out the copper for the PEC junk)
I don't know about just strapping the butted top plates. The code specs I know of (I'm old and haven't done much of this in many years) double top plate with a minimum 4' overlap of each of the top boards. I know exactly why this is in the code. 1992 Northridge Earthquake, my home in Los Angeles about 20-30 miles from the epicenter. A few plaster cracks, but above one door jam the top plate buckled a few inches. In the attic it's easy to see that the overlap of the top plates was less than 8". No where else in the house did this happen. So unless I'm missing something, okay that strap connection won't come apart, but it can buckle causing damage that doesn't need to happen. The whole 'but you have earthquakes..' I find a bit of a bogus argument, lots of things can happen to a house, the structural upgrades, (most of which have 'Simpson' as part of 'em) aren't expensive, aren't time consuming...
In Los Angeles, hurricane ties to the roof were not required 25 years ago. What's it take to properly strap the roof structure? That was another of the upgrades.
Great videos. Even if I'm being cranky they're well considered and are always interesting. Thanks.
Same, code where I live is minimum 2' overlap on double top plate but 4' recommended. Of course codes can and do change when new products come to market.
Wow a couple of 2x2's with some foam in between.. How sturdy! 👍
he said they were 2x3's but the measurement showed 2x2.5, i feel like you are sacrificing load bearing for increased insulation. I guess it depends on situation. I personally am opting out of a lot of wood material. Brick houses last forever and have great insulation values.
Love your content and productions. Just great. But, in this video I wanted to see how you toe-nail these t-studs to the sole plates. Seems that unless attached by pneumatic wire nailing, the penetration of traditional nails would easily split these.
When I see snow melting patterns on a roof, I can tell where the rafters are. I see the snow melting away in between the wooden rafters. Wherever the rafters are the snow melts away more slowly. Is not thermal resistance involved more than is being described.?
What kind of price difference are we talking here.? I’m thinking I’d rather use any extra cash on a nice safe steel roof. Steel siding too. I’d place fire/heat materials in between the outside walls/rafters.
Okay, I’m concerned about high winds too. I want steel pilings driven down to bedrock and strapping down the entire buildings structure.
I’d prefer 18 gauge studs rather than wood because a good welder can follow up the carpenters and weld the entire structure together into a single unit.
You've renewed my faith in the possibility of building a stick built house rather than going ICF.
I have my doubts about "dry stacking" these studs to make load bearing headers. Regardless, I wish these entrepreneurs success. More power to them for trying to do something better.
Matt, Tstuds do offer an interesting thermal benefit. Class A fire resistance is reasonable. How about toxicity of combustion products. Thanks for covering this system.
Yeah, usually that foam insulation stuff is nothing but highly combustible kindling. Don't know that I'd want to go that route. Doesn't take much to light that stuff on fire vs trying to light a 2 x 4 stud on fire.
@@woodrowmagnus2535 Fortunately that doesn't apply to this product.
MOre than 60 years have passed since Buckminster Fuller introduced dome building. You and your pals are still trying to catch up...good luck!
How well has the foam been researched? degradability? off-gassing?
think nudura or any icf construction. id guess it doesnt make a difference in the scheme of things, but its something to think about.
I find it weird seeing all the comments questioning the foam. It's become quite common to use spray foam insulation up in Canada
According to their website its not even code compliant regarding fire hazard - yet...
@@Helloverlord fair enough, but neither is any insulated foundation. We typically have to board any foam insulated wall because of gases in the case of a fire.Even in an unfinished basement. I dont think they like seeing any exposed foam because of off gases in the case of a fire. This application is minimal compared to the way construction is going. Foam is becoming quite a popular choice
Without UV a,b or c rays, will last for centuries. The outgassing of chemicals in the foam, stops completely after 10 days. The finished product will be in the warehouse, loaded and shipped long after any fumes are left. Testing meets ASTM specs and published.
Not a construction guy myself. This makes very good sense to me. What an excellent video - really good information.
Matt!! You should have gotten the guy from TStud to say "On the Build Show" with you at the end..LOL
So corny 😂
Amazing product! Love how strong it is too for seismic
Looks great innovation there. Though what is the foam? Off-gasing issues?
Would think the controlled environment at the factory would make for properly catalyzed foam ,plus the time from manufacture to install allows for some off-gassing. I read that most spray foam issues are caused by installer error in adjusting to environment variables at the time the foam is sprayed.
@@jamesooten3659 Wow, Way to run with it .
@@jamesooten3659 Excellent advice for anyone anywhere in the world. Same human nature applies.
@@jamesooten3659 And that is why we have inspectors and building departments and courts of law. The main problem she had was hiring out of state contractors that weren't bonded in the state she lives in. Oopsy.
@@iamjackalope
Where I live, there are no zoning laws, no building permits required, or building inspectors. The only exception to the rule being homes financed by The Veteran's Adm., who inspect the job site weekly. The Electric Company inspects your power pole set-up and from the meter to the breaker box before they'll turn the power on. The water company inspects the pipe from the meter to the foundation wall for leaks and that the pipe will be covered by 18" of dirt. That leaves plenty of room for errors and dishonest contractors. So basically you have to be your own building inspector here.
30 years ago, I came up with a crazy idea being a carpenter apprentice know it all
I built my first house that I still live in, a basic 3 bedroom bungalow
Instead of framing with 2"x6" s, I framed the exterior walls with 2 x 2"x4" walls (actually 1.5" x 3.5") walls, staggered the studs, with the plates 11" apart, To allow 2 x 2x6" of insulation made for 2"x6"walls to go in between as 2"x 6"s are actually 1.5"x5.5" wide
So one solid blanket of 12" thick insulation R-40, in between 2 x 2"x4" 2 x R-12 walls meaning ZERO thermal bridging
So the exterior wall is actually 18" wide with ZERO thermal bridging, and 2 x 2" layers of styrofoam sm = R-20 over the 7/16" sheeting on the outside, so all together R- 84 , covered with solid clay brick, using Portland cement vs masonry, a trick a mason told me
And R-160 in the attic, with the access to the attic at each gabel end, I made my own vents that are hinged, so no hole puncturing the building envelope in the ceiling
I guess I got a little carried away, Lol
What’s your energy bill like or the comfort of the hot or cold in the different seasons?
How does it work?
Natural common sense contractors. If you been in the business, you can customize simple materials and have great results. Thanks for yours.
How do you put a window or a door in an 18" wall?
@@keith_dixon With screws or nails, I used screws
Seriously, you should be able to figure this out, just like old houses with thick stone walls or triple bricks
recessed with a window seat
Like this only my sides are angled, to let in more light in
You get the idea
i.pinimg.com/originals/ce/e5/c7/cee5c77de725ca2a3ceae8f1debc220d.jpg
Matt, I would love to see some comparison of timber framing vs Tstud.
Same
What a time to be alive!
this is so obvious once you see it. genius. Hope he has a patent on it.
@ Matt. Could you do a vid on how to recycle/dispose of foam insulation? This is one major topic why is still prever rocksheet insulation over foam.
The best information on RUclips By far
So when you really need to anchor something to your wall, your only screwing into a 2x3, just brilliant.
ClubMayview a 2x3 that’s a truss held by what look like substantial dowels and rigid foam. It’s essentially a 3x6
I appreciate your innovative discoveries 👍🏻
It WILL be included on my next build..
(Small, I will be making my own)
I see way too many hacks making videos and giving horrible advice. Big fan of your videos! Your passion for building shows in every video you make.
First before first lol.
This is amazing when i build my next home this is the stud I'm using.
Thank you for sharing .
@steveXracer, He said an extra 1500 for a 2500 square ft house. I don't think that's 3X's ?
I am curious on how well you can run plumbing through this type of wall. As a plumber it looks like it would be a problem running waste arms and the vertical stacks.
You add a service cavity.
The fact that they are an engineered product means that most likely you won't be able to notch them hardly at all. Just like TGI truss's you could be limited to designated penetrations (knock outs) so I imagine you plumbers won't think to highly of them. The electricians on the other hand....
I wish this product was available when I built my house. good stuff thanks Matt.
Is the foam biodegradable? If it isn't, is it a concern for cleanup?
If the foam IS biodegradable, how do you stop it from degrading BEFORE you need to dispose of it?
Sometimes the fact that nothing can eat it is a good thing.
There was a class-action lawsuit about widespread rodent damage to the wiring of (Honda or Toyota, not sure which) cars because the insulation was soy based, meaning the rodents loved the taste. The repair involves wrapping the wires with special electrical tape laced with Capsaicin (what makes peppers hot, also active ingredient in pepper spray) so the rodents don't want to chew it anymore.
@@44R0Ndin Lots of things degrade when exposed to the elements, foam insulation which is generally enclosed and on the inside of things, like houses, doesn't need to be exposed.
Those foams are all UV-degradable... No biotics required, just sunlight. Cement isn't biodegradable, nor are shingles. What is your actual concern? You planning on tearing down your house every few years and throwing it away?
Fun fact, in the late 50's all the way up to the late 60's and even into the 70's they built a lot of walk in coolers with wood framing and wood paneling before they figured out much more efficient solutions.
I love the tstud inventor, hes professional but he's wowed by his own creation. Lol Passion like that really gives you the impression that he's personally invested in a great product. Some amazing stats
Great innovation, and you did an excellent job covering it. Thanks.
They finally figured a way to Jack up the price of a 2x4
it was only a matter of time
you don't have to buy these, if ur wanna go cheap and if you don't care about the environment thats fine, ill buy them for my future home
Um, no, 2x6 and 2x8... what’s the compression strength of these T-studs vs a standard 2x what ever again?
@@JohnSmith-jz4pk how eco friendly is manufacturing and disposing of the foam ?
@@JohnSmith-jz4pk lmao what a jack ass.
I feel like I just saw the future right here. Great innovative design.
Did you fast forward the video to the end?
I had this idea 20 years ago. I knew it would come out eventually.
Ideas don't matter. Funding matters. That's why I stopped giving a shit about anything years ago.
This is a very informative video…Matt your great…..thanks for bringing it to us.