@@lisabaginski9155 Really? Outie windows have always been a North American detail in my experience. In places where mass masonry is more common vs framing (i.e. most of Europe), innie windows are much more prevalent.
@@hailexiao2770 Not in Denmark or Northern climates. The external insulation is a must. But even old European structures have super thick walls (just no insulation)
I want to use insofast on my house like you had featured at one point. It's an old house with no house wrap currently. Insofast advertises that you don't have to use wrap since the insulation panels basically are the water barrier,don't they?. If I wanted to do the "outtie" style window like you described in your last example because I want the big sills on the interior (we plan to replace all the windows when we replace the siding). Would you recommend that I seal the 2x10 to the sheathing or to the surface of the insofast panels?
In cold climates, outie windows can lead to more condensation. The trapped air behind it acts like insulation, keeping the window cold, and the window is a condensing surface.
hi Matt! I'm a contractor in Seattle, re-cladding an older home. We're fans of your "construction philosophy" and we've come up with a design that incorporates your principles but involves a unique combination of materials. Working outwards, we plan to have: 1) (existing) 2x6 studs; 2) (existing) 3/4" shiplap; 3) (airgap/water barrier) Tyvek DrainWrap; 4) (insulation) 1.5" ComfortBoard 80; 5)(airgap/water barrier) Tyvek DrainWrap; 6) 4x8 HZ10 HardiePanel (screwed through lower layers into studs); 7) Stuc-o-flex base coat (sprayed on ~1/8" thick, troweled smooth); 8) Stuc-o-flex acrylic (color-impregnated) finish coat applied (by machine) as a dash coat. Fwiw, Stuc-o-flex reassures us that the base coat should adhere perfectly to the HardiePanel. Also, all new windows have just been installed with appropriate clearances for the above layers. Just wondering if you see any problems with this design? In particular, since you emphasize appropriate air-gapping so strongly, would you be concerned that the force of the HardiePanel attachment (to the studs) would squeeze the DrainWrap so tightly that it ceased to function as an air gap and drain channel? And of course, any other concerns, or improvements? Thanks so much for all the great videos, I never miss one.
Another key point for the airspace behind the siding is heat ventilation. You mentioned bug screening on top and bottom, but that also allows excess heat buildup to ventilate out, especially when using a darker siding which absorbs heat. Heat being the secondary most common cause of siding failure behind water. Great video. Like the mock-ups for customers to see how things are being engineered and not just built.
THANK YOU! Exactly the video I needed. For at least a year or two, I've had a hard time picturing how a window assembly works with exterior insulation, and this cleared it right up.
Matt, how would you fasten the jamb extension in option 1? Would it screw through the nail fin into the framing? Or would you avoid extra penetrations and use some caulk or adhesive? Thanks!
I prefer using the last assembly however I think it can be improved on a little bit to reduce thermal bridging around the window. The last house we did we used 4.5" of rigid foam (Silverboard) on the exterior brought flush to the opening of the window. 3/4" plywood to extend the sill from the inside of the 2x6 wall to the outside of the strapping (total ~11.25", 5.5" framing, 1/2" ply, 4.5" foam, 3/4" strapping) make sure the strapping is below the 3/4" plywood sill extension. We used 7.25" GRK RSS fasteners around the strapping through the foam and into the framing beneath. Flash the window as usual with peel/stick or whatever you use. Install the window to the strapping. This eliminates a lot of the thermal bridging in most of these assemblies.
This is such great info. The solution you are choosing for your own house is awesome. So useful to see all the options within a single video. I'm bullish on thick walls and often see insetting the window against an internal cleat. set within the rough opening. Here's where a watertight pan on the sill is so great. Especially if using stone/concrete sills. Thanks for taking the time to create the video!
What did you end up doing? I've just started the same and I've no clue. Too many conflicting recommendations. I even made a video about it asking for ideas and help.
Nice job showing your methods Matt! I am still just tickled pink that you are constantly spreading knowledge of building science and what I think should be "standard good building practices." My company is known in my area for efficiency and longevity." That's why we stay super busy despite being a good bit more $ per sq than joe blow down the street. Man if you saw what builders get away with here in my area, it would make you hurt. Honest to the good man upstairs! MO..... Where inspectors will pass anything. Including a deck ledger That's just nailed to the house. It's nuts. Keep informing people! I have a good bit of past, present, and even future clients watching your show to learn the difference between good and what other builders do. Lol Thanks man! Keep up the great work!
Matt, for option 1, with the 1x4 trim, is there any issue with water pooling on the bottom of the box (exterior sill)? Would it be better to slope it? Is it only a problem with water sensitive materials like wood trim? Thanks!
Big Mo Ok I have done a lot of window replacements. Step 1 caulk all the cracks around and in old frame exterior and interior behind trim. Step2 set new window in old frame S.L.P. Or to the reveal of existing opening caulk new window to existing frame sash stop. Step3 clad outside of old frame with metal and caulk to new window. Be SURE NOT to cover weep holes. When in doubt get a glazier to put them in not a carpenter unless you know a top shelf carpenter. Now sit back and enjoy the view you earned my friend!
Matt, as a commercial glazier, this kind of situation doesn’t have to be a pain but it gets better with a higher quality glazing solution that doesn’t use the residential nailing flange. Many small curtainwall systems make insulation integration so much easier. If I am able to build my house one day, I would love to show you what I mean. Heck, with 10 minutes of your time o could show you exactly. There are so many better glazing systems to use that are far less difficult to work with, maintain, and service. The only down side is cost. The upside is using better sealed units with better finishes and so many potential installations in today’s home designs.
Love the build show Matt! Keep up the good work! Can I ask what the purpose of the Delta Vent SA over top of the Zip System is? I thought the Zip System was all you needed for a WRB and air barrier.
Yeah this is really confusing to me. I thought maybe it was just what they had on hand for a mock up, but then why go through the trouble of taping the seams?
there is no purpose. 2 weather barriers are not needed. Matt is typically correct, but every once in a while he screws up like the rest of us. Like puting radient barrier wrong side on his roof.
@@khandam7709 tHanks. I'm so confused by the opposing views on insulation materials that I made a video asking for help on how I can use the foam panels under siding on an existing home. The latest I was told that foam board insulation "does nothing".
Hey Matt, I'm working my way through my first full remodel on my personal home. I just wanted to say thank you for making these videos. I've learned so much and i plan on applying a lot of your methods on my build.
GREAT VIDEO Matt. I have been looking at ways to handle windows when adding exterior insulation. Thanks for all the information you provide on new materials as well as best practice.
on my house in Houston, (doing it ourself), i have first exterior sheathing layer is 6 mm MGO(Magnesium Oxide 4x8 panel (has a layer of fiberglass). Tape up seams for full barrier of all liquid, moisture, vapor, whatever. On top of that 2 inch thick Rockwool, 2ft by 4 ft panels, then on top of that zip system board. Screw in the board with 4" screws to grab studs and squeeze rockwool a little tight (but not too much to keep insulating value) to try to match outside edge of windows and put trim on to receive siding. The zip system is the rain screen, so the rockwool should never get wet. On top of zip system is EVERLAST VYNYL SIDING. never needs to be painted, thick as hardy board, strong, insulating. I believe I'm the first and possibly only person in Houston to get it. Normally used on boat houses. That's the system I'm doing, anyone let me know if they can think of any probs with that system. (also the interior between studs is 2 inch thick rockwool, with the same 4/8 mgo fireproof , water proof, mold proof insect proof board panels inside instead of sheetrock. Considering using 1/2 treated plywood glued to the mgo board with the mgo on the inside. It's also insulating(fiberglass), and wainscoting on inside bottom half of wall, and top half painted or some kind of nice wallpaper)
That's one of the most extensive explanation, demo and options that I've seen you done since I've been a subscriber and it was awesome, thanks so very much for sharing.
Can someone explain the point of using Zip sheathing if you're just going to use a WRB house wrap as well? Why not just use regular OSB if you're going to house wrap the sheathing?
Exactly! Makes the use of zip confusing if you’re needing a house wrap on top of it… Why not tape it properly with zip tape and call it done. That’s going a little too far with ‘belt and suspenders’
I wish I would have watched this 6 months ago. I replaced all the windows in the back of my house, including removing 2 and adding 1. I just put siding back over everything to cover the chopped up old siding. Now I wish I would have added new window frames and insulated that entire wall as demonstrated here. I know it would have done a much better job.
So what's the benefit of going with rockwool instead of a Ridgid foam board? Isn't it prone towards holding moisture (even if it won't get damaged, the wood on top would)? I like to have anything, that can hold onto moisture, behind my vapor barrier. You've done other methods before, have you had problems with them? My favorite method is 1-2" of rigid eps/xps/iso board then battens screwed on top to studs and when coming to windows we buck them out with a 2x to the thickness of the foam (not the battens), tape all of the foam seams and THEN we wrap with housewrap and flash as normal (battens go on top of the foam and wrap). The only difference would be we use a J flashing around the windows that receive the trim and can be modified to any siding thickness.
Wish I had seen this video 6 months ago. I installed custom windows and now 1 out of 5 is leaking. I guess those are pretty good odds but it bothers me so bad and I am chasing a leak now.... Thanks Matt I used loads of information and processes I learned from you on my full custom home.
My 2 cents. I live in a place where the word insulation is, or should be, primary. Rockwool, not necessarily that brand, but the material type. Is by far and wide my preferred choice. In fact beside the initial cost, I never found any other major fault. I start "itching" at the taught of fiberglass and similar. LOL :-) But really fiber is an excellent "sponge" and mold foundation. Rodents and insects love nesting in it. Sound proofing, thermal barrier, etc. Still don't come close to Rockwool. My present house, I believe from early 70's, as been slowly upgraded from 10cm (~4in) fiber to 20cm (~8in) rockwool on the extgerior. I would never go back, what a difference! ;-)
@@99beta I´m in Santiago - Chile and our requirement here is also r24 wall assy and r15 outside, I install EIFS and i´m doing houses with 15" insul boards and mechanical fasteners, are you a builder in Ontario?
I’ve been watching for a long time, and always wonder how you put that thick rock wool outside and this video was all I ever needed. Thank you once again for teaching me another great build practice.
Couple of suggesstions: 1 use pressure treated lumber for the window buck or extention. Just an extra measure againt rot & insects. 2. Prime (all sides) of the lumber installed. This adds protection against water damage, and also provides a good surfance for tape to stick to (if you going with the tape option 3. I think the ZIP or other stretch tape may be a better option than the fluid applied sealer as the stretch tape can stretch a lot with out cracking. if your fluid applied cracks to to excess expansion\contraction, there is now a path for water damage.
@@clwilli My house has only about 24000 btu/hr for heating a cooling. I usually put the AC on at night when the air is cool outside and the house remains cool for the entire day. Probably around $100/mo for AC cooling. About 3200 sqft. 2x6x24oc with R23 rockwool & 2" rigid on the outside (R10). SIP R48 Roof. Nothing special with the windows, just Marvin double hung windows.
Glad to see JW windows on your build. Twelve years ago for our remodel JW was the the only window mfg with a stain grade interior jamb/sash and metal clad exterior. The windows are performing nicely and look as good as the day of installation.
As a non-professional home owner windows are so difficult to get right, I know this because the company that built my house failed so miserably back in 1978. The remodel addition in the 1990's before I owned my house is even worse. Thanks for giving me options on doing it right.
Matt, how about showing some us old school guys details for bug screening rain screens for siding. You always just pass over this detail like everyone knows how to do this.
Last I checked Matt doesn't teach the "how to" part of building, he focuses on the why. If you need the how, contact the manufacturer for the recommended installation guides or check youtube and other resources for that info.
Great video, thanks Matt!! For the two innie assemblies with the box frame, and the outie assembly, do you still need to add flashing over the top of the trim? Also, for the outie assembly, was there a reason why you added the second wrb from delta over zip beyond just demonstrating those materials? Was anything stopping you from using zip liquid flash to flash the buck direct to the zip sheathing? Thanks!
I used the vent Sa to show another WRB option. Disregard that it had zip under. Not meant to be instructional. Yes Huber Liquid Flash would work too. Very similar product to Prosoco Fast Flash.
how effective are bug screens in the long term? is my airgap going to be crammed full of another 3/4 inch of r-3 dead stink bug insulation? that would be awesome.
Good question, one I am trying to figure out how I want to do it on my home. One builder has a video on RUclips where he uses corrugated plastic ridge vent along the bottom 3" or 4" or so.
Really good video. Maybe add in some more shots from different angles as you are describing what is being done on the outside edge of the window, for instance.
It's great to see the options side by side. Now I've got a bunch to think about. As a designer for projects with modest budgets I've been recommending 2x6 @ 24" framing with flash and batt walls, 2-4" closed cell foam and the balance in batt insulation. The less "stuff" there is outboard of the sheathing the less hassle (and cost) there is in construction. But the solutions in this video look manageable even on a budget.
Excellent Video Matt!! Can not wait for your "chain saw" retro fit!...as well, when you do the windows on your reno house can you please do a video specifically on your window install!? Thanks ahead of time!
Please discuss more, northern vapor barrier techniques vs southern. As a northern zone 5 builder is hard to find detail for these. Also, northern slab, foundation, insulation. See you at IBS!!
Hi Matt . . . for the third option, how do you flash the top and sides of the window box casing that you place over the window? Also how do you attach it to the sheathing? LMK if you have a chance thx
2:10 I like this one the best; the window looks better set in from the surface of the siding than with the glass flush or even bug-eyed the way it would be with the other systems. Window glass flush with the siding makes a house look like a trailer. But I'd add an a old-fashioned ledge (it could be cut in a more contemporary shape, maybe with a sloping top surface, if desired) with flashing going out to its edge to keep any water running down the siding well clear of the window, with all of its failure-prone joints. That worked in the past with the imperfect windows they had then and it's reasonable to assume that just about any window made today will be a little leaky by the time it reaches the end of its life.
I guess you have already thought of this but if you haven't then I would recommend you to remove that long branch that's over your roof. Sure it might not be an issue at the moment though it certainly will someday in the future and better to remove it now than risk having it break and fall on your new roof sometime in the future.
I realize this is an old post, and maybe a question for B. Hull. I live in a cold climate zone 6. It seems up here, older house’s windows are always “innie” by several inches. Was this a later adjustment because of the need for winter storm windows, or was this done historically due to wind and snow? Does having an innie of 4” affect light entry?
I’m researching ideas for renovating or rebuilding a rural property and am considering installing roller shades to prevent break-ins and protect windows against storm damage. I hate the look of roller shades on the outside of a wall and would like to build them in to a thicker wall so that when they are open they can’t be seen (ie. the window is set back in the opening). I’m wondering if you have ever done an install like this or saw this when you were in Europe, specifically Switzerland where exterior roller shades are common. Looking for thoughts/ideas on such an install. Thanks in advance.
FYI: Still building my home, but I am planning to use dual roller shades in my windows. Have 2x6x24 walls with about 3.5" window buck. There is about 6" between the inside window and the interior (drywall).
Unless the window is a litteral work of art I would replace anything that is single pane before i would get around to adding insulation the difference is huge.
Excellent video. Just what I was looking for. Redoing our north wall up here in Canada. Was planning on exterior insulation using Rockwool Comfortboard as you shown. Have been looking for ways to buck out the existing windows.
Better open is to just fasten some rigid foam board behind the window buck nail base. Have some lumber secures the window to the window buck much better & you still get the thermal break.
Yes, thermal buck is the way to go. My wall profile on timber frame project is 2 x 6 wall over timber frame, then OSB, 2 inches of polyiso rigid insulation, 1 x 4 strapping with cement siding exterior. Window install inside the thermal bucks went well. Subsequently window sealing was verified with blower door testing with no leakage around any of the 60 plus windows. Windows were interior trimmed with 3 1/2 inch sill / apron buildup creating nearly 12 inches of window sill ledge, which I find very attractive.
Is system number 4 more prone to condensation in cold climates with the windows protruding so far out of the "warm" wall cavity. essentially the whole window would be sitting in cold air and the warm conditioned are would be hitting it.
@@MW-gh1mo He has rockwool insulating the edge but if the interior of the wall is spray foamed, blown in, or batt the rockwool is on the cold side of the envelope and therefore will be close to the same temp as the cold outside air.
I watch a fair number of your videos. In many of the last year or so videos you speak about the attributes of ZipSystem. It is moisture barrier in & of itself without another product. Here you choose to use Delta Vent SA in addition to Zip. Why? *Side note. I have had a 12” square of ZipSystem sheathing in a bucket of water for nearly a year with only swelling. But no softening or loss of sheathing integrity.
I like the options. I am doing a combo of both the the last one (the outie) and the the last innie. IE I put a 2x3 buck in to make it even with the insulation, but I still need to bump it out some to take in account the 3/4 in furring strip. I see that he seals the bottom of the siding to trim. Glancing through this on the outie, I can see there was some head flashing added. Looks like it goes under the insulation? And under the trim. I would love to see what he did on the top piece of trim? Do you use head flashing that in addition, with it attaching to the outside of the furring strip to catch water and complete the lap with the siding? Would love to see the little details.
I’m having a hard time finding a way to deal with my innie windows. I’m adding insulation to my house and am having trouble finding a simple way to waterproof them without changing out the windows. This helps some but this is all new construction. Most ppl are remodeling and dealing with out of date methods and materials. More videos on stuff like that would be a lot more helpful. New construction is easy retrofitting old windows and trim is a lot harder.
What changes would be needed when spoiling your perfect wall and using vinyl siding? Is it prudent to go over the Zip System directly with the Rockwool? We thought the Zip System eliminated the need for the Delta product. (This house and the dilemmas it gave you, places the project into the real world. It is great to see you working through budget and improvement decisions - Best house you could have bought)
I was hoping you would show Rockwool RedAir Link since its made for windows, not sure if you have it in the us. Im always trying to find products you use or similar in norway. I want to use ZIP sheating on my house when i renovate it, but unfortunately we dont have it in norway.
"Clients don't really know craftsmanship but they know cleanliness" most accurate statement about construction I've ever heard 😂
I know right?! That's dead on
Facts!
More videos like this, please. I like the step by step install videos.
Yes please! I might not do it myself, but it shows what to look for from a builder
Yeah and ditto. I wanted to see what is used at the lower edge of the Comfort Board as a bug screen/ splash guard.
The last option with the outie window makes for a nice big window sill on the inside that many homeowners love.
Yes, very European.
@@lisabaginski9155 Really? Outie windows have always been a North American detail in my experience. In places where mass masonry is more common vs framing (i.e. most of Europe), innie windows are much more prevalent.
@@hailexiao2770 Not in Denmark or Northern climates. The external insulation is a must. But even old European structures have super thick walls (just no insulation)
I want to use insofast on my house like you had featured at one point. It's an old house with no house wrap currently. Insofast advertises that you don't have to use wrap since the insulation panels basically are the water barrier,don't they?. If I wanted to do the "outtie" style window like you described in your last example because I want the big sills on the interior (we plan to replace all the windows when we replace the siding). Would you recommend that I seal the 2x10 to the sheathing or to the surface of the insofast panels?
In cold climates, outie windows can lead to more condensation. The trapped air behind it acts like insulation, keeping the window cold, and the window is a condensing surface.
Professor Risinger. A man on a mission.
Architecturally, I like padding out the window so the homeowner can have a nice, deep windowsill on the inside.
This is what I have been waiting for. The small details.
hi Matt! I'm a contractor in Seattle, re-cladding an older home. We're
fans of your "construction philosophy" and we've come up with a design
that incorporates your principles but involves a unique combination of
materials. Working outwards, we plan to have: 1) (existing) 2x6 studs;
2) (existing) 3/4" shiplap; 3) (airgap/water barrier) Tyvek DrainWrap;
4) (insulation) 1.5" ComfortBoard 80; 5)(airgap/water barrier) Tyvek
DrainWrap; 6) 4x8 HZ10 HardiePanel (screwed through lower layers into
studs); 7) Stuc-o-flex base coat (sprayed on ~1/8" thick, troweled
smooth); 8) Stuc-o-flex acrylic (color-impregnated) finish coat applied
(by machine) as a dash coat.
Fwiw, Stuc-o-flex reassures us that the base coat should adhere
perfectly to the HardiePanel. Also, all new windows have just been
installed with appropriate clearances for the above layers. Just
wondering if you see any problems with this design? In particular,
since you emphasize appropriate air-gapping so strongly, would you be
concerned that the force of the HardiePanel attachment (to the studs)
would squeeze the DrainWrap so tightly that it ceased to function as an
air gap and drain channel? And of course, any other concerns, or
improvements? Thanks so much for all the great videos, I never miss one.
surprised by all the air gaps.. it is the air gaps that contain air/moisture that can then condense?
Another key point for the airspace behind the siding is heat ventilation. You mentioned bug screening on top and bottom, but that also allows excess heat buildup to ventilate out, especially when using a darker siding which absorbs heat. Heat being the secondary most common cause of siding failure behind water. Great video. Like the mock-ups for customers to see how things are being engineered and not just built.
Matt, you realize that you've made us even more eager for 70s home project videos.
I have been a Glazier for 25 years, and your window details are awesome. I like the fact that my trade is always evolving. Thank you for the lessons!
THANK YOU! Exactly the video I needed. For at least a year or two, I've had a hard time picturing how a window assembly works with exterior insulation, and this cleared it right up.
Jeld Wen is offering an exterior extension jamb from the factory now.
Matt, how would you fasten the jamb extension in option 1? Would it screw through the nail fin into the framing? Or would you avoid extra penetrations and use some caulk or adhesive? Thanks!
@buildshow
I prefer using the last assembly however I think it can be improved on a little bit to reduce thermal bridging around the window. The last house we did we used 4.5" of rigid foam (Silverboard) on the exterior brought flush to the opening of the window. 3/4" plywood to extend the sill from the inside of the 2x6 wall to the outside of the strapping (total ~11.25", 5.5" framing, 1/2" ply, 4.5" foam, 3/4" strapping) make sure the strapping is below the 3/4" plywood sill extension. We used 7.25" GRK RSS fasteners around the strapping through the foam and into the framing beneath. Flash the window as usual with peel/stick or whatever you use. Install the window to the strapping. This eliminates a lot of the thermal bridging in most of these assemblies.
how would you fasten the 1"x4" PVC trim to the zip wall? That sounds like a difficult detail unless it is just toenailed in.
This is such great info. The solution you are choosing for your own house is awesome. So useful to see all the options within a single video. I'm bullish on thick walls and often see insetting the window against an internal cleat. set within the rough opening. Here's where a watertight pan on the sill is so great. Especially if using stone/concrete sills. Thanks for taking the time to create the video!
I'd really like to strip my siding off this spring, and add some zip system and/or extra insulation. Can you show us how to bug seal that air cavity?
What did you end up doing? I've just started the same and I've no clue. Too many conflicting recommendations. I even made a video about it asking for ideas and help.
Nice job showing your methods Matt! I am still just tickled pink that you are constantly spreading knowledge of building science and what I think should be "standard good building practices." My company is known in my area for efficiency and longevity." That's why we stay super busy despite being a good bit more $ per sq than joe blow down the street. Man if you saw what builders get away with here in my area, it would make you hurt. Honest to the good man upstairs! MO..... Where inspectors will pass anything. Including a deck ledger That's just nailed to the house. It's nuts.
Keep informing people! I have a good bit of past, present, and even future clients watching your show to learn the difference between good and what other builders do. Lol Thanks man! Keep up the great work!
Why did you use Vent SA with the Zip system?
Matt, for option 1, with the 1x4 trim, is there any issue with water pooling on the bottom of the box (exterior sill)? Would it be better to slope it? Is it only a problem with water sensitive materials like wood trim? Thanks!
Would love to see water proofing strategies for window replacements when siding isn’t being replaced.
Big Mo Ok I have done a lot of window replacements. Step 1 caulk all the cracks around and in old frame exterior and interior behind trim. Step2 set new window in old frame S.L.P. Or to the reveal of existing opening caulk new window to existing frame sash stop. Step3 clad outside of old frame with metal and caulk to new window. Be SURE NOT to cover weep holes. When in doubt get a glazier to put them in not a carpenter unless you know a top shelf carpenter. Now sit back and enjoy the view you earned my friend!
Another great video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, Matt! This speaks to me.
Matt, as a commercial glazier, this kind of situation doesn’t have to be a pain but it gets better with a higher quality glazing solution that doesn’t use the residential nailing flange. Many small curtainwall systems make insulation integration so much easier. If I am able to build my house one day, I would love to show you what I mean. Heck, with 10 minutes of your time o could show you exactly. There are so many better glazing systems to use that are far less difficult to work with, maintain, and service. The only down side is cost. The upside is using better sealed units with better finishes and so many potential installations in today’s home designs.
Love the build show Matt! Keep up the good work! Can I ask what the purpose of the Delta Vent SA over top of the Zip System is? I thought the Zip System was all you needed for a WRB and air barrier.
I would love a response to this question, as I wondered the same thing. Thanks
Yeah this is really confusing to me. I thought maybe it was just what they had on hand for a mock up, but then why go through the trouble of taping the seams?
there is no purpose. 2 weather barriers are not needed. Matt is typically correct, but every once in a while he screws up like the rest of us. Like puting radient barrier wrong side on his roof.
@@khandam7709 tHanks. I'm so confused by the opposing views on insulation materials that I made a video asking for help on how I can use the foam panels under siding on an existing home. The latest I was told that foam board insulation "does nothing".
Now we need the same video with the interior finishes innie and outie windows! I have been looking for this.
I absolutely love this. I've always wondered how good builders make thick exterior insulation work!
Why do you think he is a good builder? He is a green, expensive builder that should be building in DC.
I'd say anyone who is as anal about building envelope would qualify as an above average builder.
Hey Matt,
I'm working my way through my first full remodel on my personal home. I just wanted to say thank you for making these videos. I've learned so much and i plan on applying a lot of your methods on my build.
GREAT VIDEO Matt. I have been looking at ways to handle windows when adding exterior insulation. Thanks for all the information you provide on new materials as well as best practice.
How would you go about attaching the simple 1x4 pvc frame that slides over the window?
Time for a large hard back book: "Builting Tips from The Build Show". Craftsmanship indeed!
on my house in Houston, (doing it ourself), i have first exterior sheathing layer is 6 mm MGO(Magnesium Oxide 4x8 panel (has a layer of fiberglass). Tape up seams for full barrier of all liquid, moisture, vapor, whatever. On top of that 2 inch thick Rockwool, 2ft by 4 ft panels, then on top of that zip system board. Screw in the board with 4" screws to grab studs and squeeze rockwool a little tight (but not too much to keep insulating value) to try to match outside edge of windows and put trim on to receive siding. The zip system is the rain screen, so the rockwool should never get wet. On top of zip system is EVERLAST VYNYL SIDING. never needs to be painted, thick as hardy board, strong, insulating. I believe I'm the first and possibly only person in Houston to get it. Normally used on boat houses. That's the system I'm doing, anyone let me know if they can think of any probs with that system.
(also the interior between studs is 2 inch thick rockwool, with the same 4/8 mgo fireproof , water proof,
mold proof insect proof board panels inside instead of sheetrock. Considering using 1/2 treated plywood glued to the mgo board with the mgo on the inside. It's also insulating(fiberglass), and wainscoting on inside bottom half of wall, and top half painted or some kind of nice wallpaper)
Fully expected this being the next Abandoned Mansion episode, with Matt Carriker. As he uploaded the Zip system arriving yesterday, along with you.
Great video Matt, its much appreciated helping the building industry
Why the Delta Vent on top of the ZIP wall? I've watched the video twice, but didn't catch why.
That's one of the most extensive explanation, demo and options that I've seen you done since I've been a subscriber and it was awesome, thanks so very much for sharing.
@mattrisinger Can you share details of how the PVC frames are secured to the frame in Option #1?
Nice choices - definitely would like the full installation process for option #3.
Great work Matt. Many thanks.
This was awesome. Thanks Matt.
I’ve been looking for a video like this for about a year. THANKS!
Can someone explain the point of using Zip sheathing if you're just going to use a WRB house wrap as well? Why not just use regular OSB if you're going to house wrap the sheathing?
Exactly!
Makes the use of zip confusing if you’re needing a house wrap on top of it…
Why not tape it properly with zip tape and call it done.
That’s going a little too far with ‘belt and suspenders’
Perfect. More videos like this Matt! Well done!
Great video. Super helpful. Please continue doing these videos on various ways to do these tricky items.
I wish I would have watched this 6 months ago. I replaced all the windows in the back of my house, including removing 2 and adding 1. I just put siding back over everything to cover the chopped up old siding. Now I wish I would have added new window frames and insulated that entire wall as demonstrated here. I know it would have done a much better job.
So what's the benefit of going with rockwool instead of a Ridgid foam board? Isn't it prone towards holding moisture (even if it won't get damaged, the wood on top would)? I like to have anything, that can hold onto moisture, behind my vapor barrier. You've done other methods before, have you had problems with them? My favorite method is 1-2" of rigid eps/xps/iso board then battens screwed on top to studs and when coming to windows we buck them out with a 2x to the thickness of the foam (not the battens), tape all of the foam seams and THEN we wrap with housewrap and flash as normal (battens go on top of the foam and wrap). The only difference would be we use a J flashing around the windows that receive the trim and can be modified to any siding thickness.
Wish I had seen this video 6 months ago.
I installed custom windows and now 1 out of 5 is leaking. I guess those are pretty good odds but it bothers me so bad and I am chasing a leak now....
Thanks Matt I used loads of information and processes I learned from you on my full custom home.
This guys obsessed with insulation
My 2 cents. I live in a place where the word insulation is, or should be, primary.
Rockwool, not necessarily that brand, but the material type. Is by far and wide my preferred choice. In fact beside the initial cost, I never found any other major fault. I start "itching" at the taught of fiberglass and similar. LOL :-)
But really fiber is an excellent "sponge" and mold foundation. Rodents and insects love nesting in it. Sound proofing, thermal barrier, etc. Still don't come close to Rockwool.
My present house, I believe from early 70's, as been slowly upgraded from 10cm (~4in) fiber to 20cm (~8in) rockwool on the extgerior. I would never go back, what a difference! ;-)
R29 for walls is code in Ontario. 2x6 with R24 insulation and R5 exterior insulation. R15 exterior is recommended.
@@99beta I´m in Santiago - Chile and our requirement here is also r24 wall assy and r15 outside, I install EIFS and i´m doing houses with 15" insul boards and mechanical fasteners, are you a builder in Ontario?
@News Now Adirondacks Good tip, notice that Matt Risinger is on their website endorsing the product. 😁
@@99beta I'm doing R-20 in the frame and 2 inch blue foam exterior R-10 so I should be good
"I just cant believe that the installation costs more than the window"... Every homeowner EVER hahahaha.
This is SO helpful. Thank you very much - learning a lot!
I’ve been watching for a long time, and always wonder how you put that thick rock wool outside and this video was all I ever needed. Thank you once again for teaching me another great build practice.
Every time I see one of your videos I want to tear my 20 year old house apart and install your Improvements.
Me to!
@@buildshow 😂
Dealing with this today. Thanks
Couple of suggesstions:
1 use pressure treated lumber for the window buck or extention. Just an extra measure againt rot & insects.
2. Prime (all sides) of the lumber installed. This adds protection against water damage, and also provides a good surfance for tape to stick to (if you going with the tape option
3. I think the ZIP or other stretch tape may be a better option than the fluid applied sealer as the stretch tape can stretch a lot with out cracking. if your fluid applied cracks to to excess expansion\contraction, there is now a path for water damage.
so what are you seeing in insulation values? Electricity savings?
@@clwilli My house has only about 24000 btu/hr for heating a cooling. I usually put the AC on at night when the air is cool outside and the house remains cool for the entire day. Probably around $100/mo for AC cooling. About 3200 sqft.
2x6x24oc with R23 rockwool & 2" rigid on the outside (R10). SIP R48 Roof. Nothing special with the windows, just Marvin double hung windows.
Glad to see JW windows on your build. Twelve years ago for our remodel JW was the the only window mfg with a stain grade interior jamb/sash and metal clad exterior. The windows are performing nicely and look as good as the day of installation.
What are you talking about ever hear of Pella Anderson or weathershield they go back to the beginning of clad windows. jW are crap sorry
As a non-professional home owner windows are so difficult to get right, I know this because the company that built my house failed so miserably back in 1978. The remodel addition in the 1990's before I owned my house is even worse. Thanks for giving me options on doing it right.
Matt - totally waterproof. Water - sounds like a challenge. Haha Looks rock solid!
Matt, how about showing some us old school guys details for bug screening rain screens for siding. You always just pass over this detail like everyone knows how to do this.
Last I checked Matt doesn't teach the "how to" part of building, he focuses on the why. If you need the how, contact the manufacturer for the recommended installation guides or check youtube and other resources for that info.
@@alpha.gamma.dingdong he knows that. That's why he asked.
Great video, thanks Matt!! For the two innie assemblies with the box frame, and the outie assembly, do you still need to add flashing over the top of the trim?
Also, for the outie assembly, was there a reason why you added the second wrb from delta over zip beyond just demonstrating those materials? Was anything stopping you from using zip liquid flash to flash the buck direct to the zip sheathing?
Thanks!
Yes. Flash over the trim if possible.
I used the vent Sa to show another WRB option. Disregard that it had zip under. Not meant to be instructional. Yes Huber Liquid Flash would work too. Very similar product to Prosoco Fast Flash.
how effective are bug screens in the long term? is my airgap going to be crammed full of another 3/4 inch of r-3 dead stink bug insulation? that would be awesome.
Good question, one I am trying to figure out how I want to do it on my home. One builder has a video on RUclips where he uses corrugated plastic ridge vent along the bottom 3" or 4" or so.
This is exactly what i needed to see for my remodel of my 1920s farm house!
Really good video. Maybe add in some more shots from different angles as you are describing what is being done on the outside edge of the window, for instance.
Really great. Thanks for the info on mfrs' materials, methods, and ideas. I would want to fly this past the Mfrs'.
It's great to see the options side by side. Now I've got a bunch to think about. As a designer for projects with modest budgets I've been recommending 2x6 @ 24" framing with flash and batt walls, 2-4" closed cell foam and the balance in batt insulation. The less "stuff" there is outboard of the sheathing the less hassle (and cost) there is in construction. But the solutions in this video look manageable even on a budget.
Good job Matt
Could you please do a video on insulating garden windows and bay windows. Thanks Matt.
Excellent Video Matt!! Can not wait for your "chain saw" retro fit!...as well, when you do the windows on your reno house can you please do a video specifically on your window install!? Thanks ahead of time!
sorry I take it back...awesome awesome video Matt!!
Thnx. I'm going to be adding exterior insulation to a 1920s house.
The fire resistant shot sold me..thats the one main thing home owners worry about is their homes catching fire.
Please discuss more, northern vapor barrier techniques vs southern. As a northern zone 5 builder is hard to find detail for these. Also, northern slab, foundation, insulation. See you at IBS!!
Good stuff. I’ll work on that. See you in Vegas!
Hi Matt . . . for the third option, how do you flash the top and sides of the window box casing that you place over the window? Also how do you attach it to the sheathing? LMK if you have a chance thx
You did peel and stick over zip?!?!
I was wondering the same thing. Also, yes the delta is vapor permeable but I do not believe the Zip is.
ThermalBuck is a simpler install and easy to work with. Time saver for sure
2:10 I like this one the best; the window looks better set in from the surface of the siding than with the glass flush or even bug-eyed the way it would be with the other systems. Window glass flush with the siding makes a house look like a trailer. But I'd add an a old-fashioned ledge (it could be cut in a more contemporary shape, maybe with a sloping top surface, if desired) with flashing going out to its edge to keep any water running down the siding well clear of the window, with all of its failure-prone joints. That worked in the past with the imperfect windows they had then and it's reasonable to assume that just about any window made today will be a little leaky by the time it reaches the end of its life.
“Chainsaw Retrofit,” may one of Joe’s top ten! Can’t wait to see it on the remodel series.
Thanks Mark! Coming soon
I guess you have already thought of this but if you haven't then I would recommend you to remove that long branch that's over your roof. Sure it might not be an issue at the moment though it certainly will someday in the future and better to remove it now than risk having it break and fall on your new roof sometime in the future.
Totally agreed. It was actually scrapping the shingles! We trimmed back but probably need to remove. Thanks
Love it when you get out there and show us how to install things!
I realize this is an old post, and maybe a question for B. Hull. I live in a cold climate zone 6. It seems up here, older house’s windows are always “innie” by several inches. Was this a later adjustment because of the need for winter storm windows, or was this done historically due to wind and snow? Does having an innie of 4” affect light entry?
What a resource Matt! I know the extra effort this takes; and it's exactly what I needed clarified. thank you
I’m researching ideas for renovating or rebuilding a rural property and am considering installing roller shades to prevent break-ins and protect windows against storm damage. I hate the look of roller shades on the outside of a wall and would like to build them in to a thicker wall so that when they are open they can’t be seen (ie. the window is set back in the opening). I’m wondering if you have ever done an install like this or saw this when you were in Europe, specifically Switzerland where exterior roller shades are common. Looking for thoughts/ideas on such an install. Thanks in advance.
Saw that all over Switzerland and Germany. Love that. Gotta work our the details but it’s doable
FYI: Still building my home, but I am planning to use dual roller shades in my windows. Have 2x6x24 walls with about 3.5" window buck. There is about 6" between the inside window and the interior (drywall).
I really wish you would do one of a historic remodel with a historic window with exterior insulation.
Unless the window is a litteral work of art I would replace anything that is single pane before i would get around to adding insulation the difference is huge.
Such a helpful video, thanks for sharing!
Excellent video. Just what I was looking for. Redoing our north wall up here in Canada. Was planning on exterior insulation using Rockwool Comfortboard as you shown. Have been looking for ways to buck out the existing windows.
Please more of this type video ! details of how to do fine details
Very clean install and nicely done with the Prosoco FastFlash on option 4 for the windows.
great episode Matt
great educational video. great content high-value material. thank you.
#5 Option - Most window manufacturer allow to order nail fin set back. If you plan ahead, order the window for your application
Great video Matt, thank you.
Great video. Thanks !!!
what about the thermal buck that you were showcasing a while back...
That’s a good option too but it’s not readily available. In a severe cold climate I think it’s more necessary
Better open is to just fasten some rigid foam board behind the window buck nail base. Have some lumber secures the window to the window buck much better & you still get the thermal break.
What's a "thermal buck"? I haven't seen all the prerequisite vidoes. Matt, a link to a glossary would help the half-educated here.
Yes, thermal buck is the way to go. My wall profile on timber frame project is 2 x 6 wall over timber frame, then OSB, 2 inches of polyiso rigid insulation, 1 x 4 strapping with cement siding exterior. Window install inside the thermal bucks went well. Subsequently window sealing was verified with blower door testing with no leakage around any of the 60 plus windows. Windows were interior trimmed with 3 1/2 inch sill / apron buildup creating nearly 12 inches of window sill ledge, which I find very attractive.
@@wingfootedgodhead 60 Windows in one home, WOW!
Is system number 4 more prone to condensation in cold climates with the windows protruding so far out of the "warm" wall cavity. essentially the whole window would be sitting in cold air and the warm conditioned are would be hitting it.
He has rockwool insulating it. But i think I prefer the simpler method of not making it protrude.
@@MW-gh1mo He has rockwool insulating the edge but if the interior of the wall is spray foamed, blown in, or batt the rockwool is on the cold side of the envelope and therefore will be close to the same temp as the cold outside air.
I watch a fair number of your videos. In many of the last year or so videos you speak about the attributes of ZipSystem. It is moisture barrier in & of itself without another product.
Here you choose to use Delta Vent SA in addition to Zip. Why?
*Side note. I have had a 12” square of ZipSystem sheathing in a bucket of water for nearly a year with only swelling. But no softening or loss of sheathing integrity.
I was unclear on this also.
Another Great video Brother !
Thank you for sharing this Excellent content.
I like the options. I am doing a combo of both the the last one (the outie) and the the last innie. IE I put a 2x3 buck in to make it even with the insulation, but I still need to bump it out some to take in account the 3/4 in furring strip. I see that he seals the bottom of the siding to trim. Glancing through this on the outie, I can see there was some head flashing added. Looks like it goes under the insulation? And under the trim. I would love to see what he did on the top piece of trim? Do you use head flashing that in addition, with it attaching to the outside of the furring strip to catch water and complete the lap with the siding? Would love to see the little details.
I am actually running into this same problem on my house I’m building. Thanks for the ideas 👍🏻
I’m having a hard time finding a way to deal with my innie windows. I’m adding insulation to my house and am having trouble finding a simple way to waterproof them without changing out the windows. This helps some but this is all new construction. Most ppl are remodeling and dealing with out of date methods and materials. More videos on stuff like that would be a lot more helpful. New construction is easy retrofitting old windows and trim is a lot harder.
What changes would be needed when spoiling your perfect wall and using vinyl siding? Is it prudent to go over the Zip System directly with the Rockwool? We thought the Zip System eliminated the need for the Delta product. (This house and the dilemmas it gave you, places the project into the real world. It is great to see you working through budget and improvement decisions - Best house you could have bought)
I was hoping you would show Rockwool RedAir Link since its made for windows, not sure if you have it in the us. Im always trying to find products you use or similar in norway. I want to use ZIP sheating on my house when i renovate it, but unfortunately we dont have it in norway.