@@mikekreen9336 It's still great camera work though. Many camera operators who are doing the actual recording seem to concentrate on just showing the RUclipsr's face instead of showing us the actual work that's being done.
@@Stringbean421 what do you mean by, "It's still great camera work though".??? I never once said it wasn't as I was agreeing with the comment of whoever is behind the camera is doing an excellent job. Only mentioning that during the editing process, when using a 4K camera or higher, you can easily make your sequence a 1080 project and post zoom all of your edits.
I am a professional engineer specializing in forensic engineering for over 30 years. Among other engineering specialties, my practice includes moisture intrusion and resulting damage to the substrate. First, I observed that you correctly diagnosed the problem: water intruding at the head of the window because it lacked flashing to direct water out of the wall. I also observed that the base of the trim along the jamb was sealed. This holds trapped water and rots the trim and the substrate. Seal the sides and the top but not the bottom. I observed that you correctly sealed the substrate (sheathing) with waterproof tape. The greatest problem I observed was the absence of a moisture barrier (Grade D building paper or house wrap, e.g. Tyvek), not a vapor barrier, beneath the shingled siding. Remember that all veneers (siding, shingles like your house has, brick, stucco) leak. Attempts to prevent moisture intrusion by keeping water out of the wall is called the barrier method. As a moisture protection system, it doesn't work. The trick is to create a drainage plane that will intercept the water and carry it to a location where it can drain out. Incidentally, this is required by code. I advise folks that it is not the water you keep out of the wall; it's the water you get out of the wall. I hope this helps and I hope you have successfully solved your water intrusion problem.
Nice Job, only recommendation I would have, coming from a window install/weather barrier exterior guy, is that the bottom flange/sill of a window should practically never be caulked or taped shut, in fact it's highly recommended to push a few horseshoe shims up under the flange to leave a drain space. On this sort of fix, your best bet without pulling the windows entirely is to at least try to slip that tape up underneath the bottom flange, and then tape the top and sides, that way you also don't end up with an exposed backwards lap/ horizontal extrusion like you have with the bottom tape, which is also a big no-no, even with most real weather barrier systems' tape, because when the glue ages, or if it's not fully adhered, water WILL get behind it. I highly recommend that people not take lightly the process of doing your windows right, because done wrong, water or moisture will 100% be either seeping into your house from around the window, or sitting rotting out your sill. I was doing this work in Washington state, so yeah let's just say I seen some rain a time or two.
Thank you for these comments, as I agree it would be an improvement. I was watching this at the 16:30 mark and had the exact same thoughts about it being better to have either an extra piece of tape behind the window edge and over his main tape barrier, or have the single bottom tape barrier go behind the bottom edge of the window. Probably would need to pry that edge out a tiny bit to achieve this. Overall, this appears to be a nice explanation and process he is using here.
So I fully understand, if using the tape, it should tuck under the lip of the window, correct? He puts it over and that cand lead to water going back in or just staying?
@@lucaskennedy1799 it WILL lead to water staying inside the window if there is ANY moisture or water that gets in, which can happen easily if there is any small hole or crack, water will find its way in, and the water will sit and rot the window sill, or maybe even overflow back inside your house into the drywall if there is no water backstop. The bottom of the outside of the window should be left open, usually just put shims under and screw the flange down, but inside the house, the bottom of the window should be fully caulked and sealed.
I have a friend with windows in about the same or worse shape and his house is crumbly old stucco. He knows I do carpentry and offered me $50 a window for repairs. I told him no thanks.
The one thing I take away from this video is I'm going to have to hire someone to fix my windows but that's ok. I've gotten some really good tips from The Fixer. I appreciate you making this video.
I don't have all of those fancy tools and at my age I don't want to spend money on them. That angle on the bottom of the trim pieces threw me for a loop. I cut it as best as I could then used a belt sander on low until I got it close enough. Thanks for the video. I always learn from these videos.
First time watcher. You have great delivery and explanations without all the unnecessary chit chat. Love how you talk through what you are doing and why as you move through the project. Excellent videography as well. I may have a little confidence now to fix some of my own dry rot. Will check out your other vids as well. Nice job.
Both you and the camera person are professionals. No cutting corners for you. You do top quality work that could be easily trusted. A rare thing these days.
33:30 Glad to see you primed the cut edges (especially the end grain which soaks up water like a sponge). Many new homes are built with carpenters neglecting to do this. As if the painters can prime them after the trim has been nailed ~ not! Eight years later and the trim has to be replaced.. remember, this new growth wood isn’t as tightly grained as the wood homes were built with in the last centuries. I’ve subscribed to your channel!
The plantation pine will be rotted and disintegrated within a decade or two as the caulk and paint fail, and those vinyl windows will also need replacing around the same time. "They don't make things like they used to." Old-growth wood window components coupled with lead paint meant windows that could last 100+ years even with a fair amount of neglect. Cheap replacement windows generally can't be repaired, it's just throw them in the landfill after a few decades and buy all new ones. This guy made a good effort but these are not repairs that will stand the test of time, unfortunately.
Thank you! You helped me save a couple thousand bucks! Got my rotten sill replaced and used flex paint instead of tape as my store nearby didn't have the tape. paint worked great. Thank you so much!
My window sill also needed repairs, so I removed the windows and made my own sill. This took me about 4 days to fix. I also had to repair the stucco around the window. Doing the sill your way would have been much easier. Your repair came out great, and so did mine. Good job.
Great job! If you do any more windows, leave a gap from the bottom of the shingles and the drip cap. This way water won't wick up behind the shakes. I had to redo a couple of mine because they were touching and wicking water up behind the shakes in heavy rains - fortunately I saw it before any permanent damage was done.
@@bel2665yes… the water will wick up behind there. A larger gap will help the water fall away. Any situation like this should have a gap, but with wood siding, AND end grain, it’s extra necessary. Hopefully the flex tape holds, and he will only have to replace that little top strip of shakes above the window. There are better brands of tape with adhesive that lasts longer, and generally it is pushed down with a hard rubber roller. Regarding the water gap… if you remember back in school the water molecule has a positive charge on one side and negative on the other, like a Lego. This allows water to hold onto itself, and it will create layers of molecules called water films. This works with layers over layers UNTIL the weight of the water is too much and the water falls away (aka water drips). If the water has something hard to cling to on both sides and that gap is narrow, then the number of water films needed to fill the gap is lower, and the weight of the films is never enough to drip. 😉
Good job on the repair. Looks better than new. I have worked on older home rehabs and can appreciate the effort you made to be sure you have a 50-year repair.
Great job! My house I'm working on was built in 1834. I'm replacing the windows. I was surprised how sq. they were. We done 11 and have 6 more to go! I think they will wait till next year!! But now I've got to replace one of the sills. We bought our house in 1970. We replacer the slate roof 30 years ago. This year we had a steel roof put on. At 71 my wife didn't want me on the roof! Side note, I bought a foam gun (#14) one of the best things I've bought!!!! Thanks for the video.
Foam guns are awesome, as long as you use that cleaner can after. Spent some fun hours cleaning those suckers out with screws and crap when company didn't didn't provide the foam cleaner spray cans. Be a shame to ruin a 50 dollar spray gun over a 5 dollar bottle of cleaner!
This was awesome! Last year, I redid sills in windows in front of my house almost just like you did. They were rotted all the way across, and then about 4 inches up each side. I learned Lowes has mill lumber that matched the pattern of the uprights. Using pressure treated 2X's, I also had to match angles on the sill. Mine turned out to be 10 degrees, not 15, but my house is 1990 vintage. I had no training, or any direction whatsoever, I just decided to try it and see how it would turn out (and no way could I do it without that handy dandy oscillating tool). This year I get to do the ones in the back, so I'm very glad to see I was on the right path here. Thanks!
Oh my gosh!! We are in the process of repairing the exact same issue where I'm renting. But I live in a shack basically. Single wall construction. Zero wall framing. It was built in the 50s as 'temporary' housing for soldiers. 70 years later and it's still standing! Personally I feel it's being held together with the caulking we've added to the inner toung and groove walls and outside on the siding each and every overlap of redwood. It keeps the insects from marching through the space between the toung and groove grooves. I was amazed at the huge space they left around your window! I love your calm mellow demeanor. I would have been cussing. Think how much money you'll save on heating and a/c! You did beautiful work. Thank you for each explanation. I just learned of the drip groove last week. And we too will be putting down a barrier tape. But since my walls are a total of 1 1/2" there is no space for insulation, we'll be straddling the perimeter of the opening for a water proof barrier. Water made it's way down a tongue and groove groove and bubbled up my interior wall paint with blisters. So that's next on the list. Thanks again and your a great teacher. No blabbing on about nonsense, (like me right now) you are not condescending in any way and that's a peave of mine. Take care.🤘😎👍
I have painted cedar shingles from the 1890s on my house, so I really appreciate this video! You don't see very many tutorials that incorporate what to do with this type of siding.
Just done my own by trial and error - before watching this. Am curious to compare notes. I'm pleased with my work. A true 'bodge' repair. From what I can see the use of silicone and wood against masonry are the culprits for my rot.
I've been trying to find videos on how to make exterior sills. Yours is the only one that I've found that's actually useable. The sill that I need to replace looks exactly like yours in terms of rot. My main concern was how to cut the angles, so you solved that issue for me and also I'll be using a circular saw to make my angles. Thanks a lot for making informative, easy to follow, common sense, right amount of chatter and humor thrown in, down to earth-videos. Have a nice day! .
I know that I started with This Old House as a great resource YOUR video is so informative and very step by step !!! I loved it. Thank you and the videographer ❤❤
First time viewer who says that was an excellent presentation, complete with descriptions, fine instructions and demonstration. I have over 40 years of handyman experience, so I know something about what I speak. I almost forgot to mention your work and outcome is excellent as well. Thank your for providing me a fine tutorial! I have three windows requiring the same, or very similar treatment. It's one of my upcoming summer of '25 projects.
Looks great and wow was that trim rotten. Just a suggestion from what I've always been told, the drip cap on top of the top trim should have a 1/4" to 3/8" gap above it so that water can run out easily and won't wik up keeping the bottom of the siding shingles wet.
So glad a stumbled onto your videos...I have an 1850's house and your tips and tricks are going to be a big help. Didn't know anything about the drip cut under the sills. We replaced windows 5yrs ago and can say that nothing was sealed like that on the outside. Thank you...
Very professional job, couple of fun facts, when you dull the point of your nails it’s called brad your nails, and the groove on bottom of sill is called a quirk
Having Done this myself throughout the years here in New England! The Sills rot more with the OLDER Replacements that weep inside the casings ,,Newer windows have solved this problem !! Older houses that Have been neglected or without Paint for years seem to be problematic as well ,, good Video and like that you gave a lil insight to what it truly takes to to the proper repairs!! Awesome work!
I really appreciate the time you took to make it understandable for nonprofessionals. I'm not a fan of Bondo (I prefer Abatron's epoxy products), but your techniques are excellent. I have a 100 year old house, so It's nice to see someone working on an older home. I subscribed, so I can find you when I need help.
I get similar caulk, paintable exterior but also with anti-mildew/mold protection. Have not used it yet. Forget to sat Thank You! And really good camera person.
Excellent video for our future repairs. The person taking the video did an AWESOME JOB!!!! Loved how they followed you during each step!!!! 10 👍 up to your videographer❣️❣️❣️❣️Thanks for this informative video.
Great video! Love all things "repairs" to older houses. Very satisfying knowing that window is rock solid against the weather. Nice work! Liked your tip on splitting the difference when working on older homes.
Yes it’s so helpful that the work is on an older house. I’m in a very damp U.K. 50 yards from the beach in a 100 year old cottage built from rocks off the shore and with no insulation. Conditions are harsh and my wooden porch’s time is running out but also so much more to do to prevent further damage. I’ve never done diy before and have so much to learn, apparently there are different types of sandpaper for different jobs! Oh yes my lack of knowledge is as bad as that 🤦♀️
@@sheenavaughan2717 It might be a bit more time intensive, but useful to pre-paint the wood before you assemble everything. I had a rotten door frame due to rain (UK too) and painted the replacement timber to prevent rot even if there is water ingress. Sound counterintuitive but masonry paint works for that, since it's made to create a waterproof layer.
Another job well done! I've searched and searched for basically this video, as all of my house sills are in a similar state of disrepair ('55 cape in the north east 😅) and you, sir did not disappoint! I'm glad I waited. I can always count on you to answer my home repair needs eventually! 😂
This is a good video. This Old House also has a very good bottom sill repair if you want to check it out. They're all very helpful, especially alot of us have older homes.
You know todays carpenters would definitely not take the time to make that drip groove. 😃 Good job man. I’m a fixer too. I’ve had a handyman business for 10’years now. I have to do all kinds of different stuff for people. It’s insane all the stuff I need to know how to do. And to do it correctly.
Wish I had someone as handy and knowledgeable as you🧐🥰 Helped put siding on my house I had years ago, it’s a lot of work. Someone else put in new windows.
Great content! Done as a normal home owner, with decent skills would do !! Folks dealing with 20+ to older homes understand, or need to understand... square and plumb works on steel I beams, but not old homes. It is always a compromise. But I learned from you again today. "split the difference".... I do not usualy do that. But I will think in that way next to see if I can make it blend rather than have a good side and a bad side.
Thank you my friend. I just encountered the same exact thing on gable side window (no rain cap). I was thinking "I'm not sure I can do this repair". Now, I know I can (and will) using your great tips and technique.
Friends have the same situation on their garage dating back to the 40s. This is very helpful and how to repair it. This video shows that it involves more than just replacing the sill. Thank you
I think it is his own home. The way he mentioned the framing being two years old from when he did a living room remodel. Regardless very thorough and does everything correctly like you said.
28:55 that hole really should have been pre-drilled. The screw threads are biting into the sill more than they are pulling into the plywood behind it. The general rule is, you drill or nail from the smaller timber into the larger timber, but since you cannot in this case, it's even more important to pre-drill.
Very nice work and attention to details. Your extra steps to insure accuracy will help this last much longer. I really enjoyed your positive attitude and simple explanations. Cheers!
Nice job and very helpful. One criticism I would make is that I frequently see people thinking that they are going to seal wood up to make it water proof and that’s simply not practically possible. The biggest thing is to have way for the water to get out so that the wood dries out, and water always has an “easy” escape route and a harder ingress route. The best thing you did on the project was install the drip cap and then the plastic moisture barrier all of which is designed to move the water away from penetrating the house. Painting the end grain is good too! But any place water accumulates is a potential problem. In any case, it looks to me like you shouldn’t have to touch this again over the course of your life time.
Beautiful job! All the sills on our Apt house need this, but I doubt the Maint crew have any idea how to do it right like this! That rain cap is key to the whole thing! Thanks! Nice to see some real and sensible carpentry again! I remember my father teaching me the "flatten the nail tip to prevent splitting the wood" trick!
New subsriber here and you make great videos. I just concluded a 20 year experiment after replacing rotted fascia, drip ege, and soffitt made of LP OSB crap (yeah, I got a grand total of $200 in the class-action litigation settlement to fix a whole house) with just plain white wood from Lowes. The experiment was to see if soft white wood would rot if it was completely sealed front, back, sides, and especially cut ends with two coats of latex Kilz primer, then two coats of latex Sherwin Williams ext house paint. This past week I had to pull off some of the the 3" drip edge from the 6" fascia and create a new drip edge with 6" wood in order to hang gutters. This wood got wet for 20 years and I was astounded that it was as solid as the day I put it up and dang it, I actually split the fascia trying to get it off. The LP stuff completely rotted in five years, much of it from just absorbing atmospheric moisture. I could have used Hardie but it was new then and I was kind of worried about what was in the sawdust, plus, the pieces come very long and I had no helper so I used 8' wood. The only downside is that painting so much while sawing and building would slow down your work if it's your trade, and you'll get some paint on your saw. But, for a DIYer with plenty of time, I recommend it.
*Remember back in the day when High Schools taught a little thing called "Industrial Arts"? Learning how to do this kind of work was part of your education. Today, people rely on RUclips Videos. We live in a weird world* *This was a good video. Concise & Informative...Thanks* 🔥
@@lazybbones *2nd Semester of my Senior year, we literally built miniature houses. Complete with a cinder block foundation, plumbing, electrical, at least one interior drywall/plastered wall, sliding windows, hinged doors, attics, lapp board siding and shingled pitched roofs...Our final pass/fail grade was based on how well or how bad a job we did*
@@Fireworxs2012 That would be so awesome. My Junior and Senior year, I was in Power Mechanics, learning small engine, and in senior year, learning how to work on cars. The first year was way more structured than the second year. I didn't learn much in that class in the senior year. Lots of great memories, though.
@@lazybbones *Everything serious I know about engines I learned working for BNSF 17 years as a Locomotive Machinist. Most of those miniature houses were auctioned off at the end of the school year for people to use as garden sheds. Think of an oversized doghouse for size. They were great for keeping tools like shovels, rakes & whatnots. They also made nice little garden green houses. Most of them sold in the $200 range, but that was 1980 dollars. It was fun & educational and the things I learned about constructing houses have stuck with me my whole life*
Awesome video, im from uk and have only completed a cill repair in college, so to see a real life example answers a lot of questions i still have (despite the difference in house construction between uk/us). Really good explaination!👍🏻
I thoroughly enjoy watching your work! You pay such attention to detail! Thank you for posting! I hope you don't have like 10 or more windows to duplicate this on, seeing as how the other ones probably don't have the rain guards either. :(
This is exactly what I needed. Except my project is on my second floor bedroom ! Not a bad slope but the window is tall. I'll be using flex tape thanks to you! Lucky for me I'm a nurse and I get a bunch of surgical cloths and laps from work to wipe all my paint/caulk/juju on. They were going to be trashed. Thanks so much!
Great video. I just came across your channel and as someone who has worked on anything with an engine and can make a lot out of metal I never really got into the wood material building type stuff. But with a really old house I have to start taking care of some things. The way I've seen your videos explain all the steps is great for someone like me. Gives me hope that an ol dummy like me can do it.
While rot doesn't migrate, it does attract undesirable pests, such as roaches and other bugs. While it's not fun and more work, the best approach would have been to pull the window and replace all of the damage for a long-term solution. The flex tape you installed will prevent any trapped water from escaping, whereby allowing an unknown water leak within the wall. Best practice is to have a 1/8" gap on the bottom flange.
Thank you so much. I appreciate the detail. I'm going to try to fix my window seal soon and I think I got the same issue with the rain cap. I love the tape tip too. Brilliant 💡
Most people don't realize Bondo is porous It sucks up water. I was a body man for 16 years In the family owned body shop. The very place I learned how to do PDR if anybody doesn't know paintless dent removal. Use as little Bondo as necessary.
As a unskilled female, with this video I think I can actually fix two windows that really need attention so thank you so much!!!! Now I just need to borrow some tools hahaha
Well done . We replaced all of the windows upstairs about 10 years ago when I got some money from compensation. That's all gone and we paid off the house about 2 years ago . The back sliding door doesn't allow for me to go out and BBQ on our deck. So we also ha 2 more windows to replace. Both the sliding glass door and full size split into 1 large window with a sliding window that is for airing out the kitchen . They are facing south. Even though we are in southern Ontario Canada it gets both hot and cold. If any water gets in behind the sill . In the winter water freezes behind pushing evrything forward . There is rot around the sliding door but will be replaced with the new glass door that opens out so my walker will go through easyer . We also have the original 1990 cranking window facing west . So 3 to replace then the bay window facing north .This one isn't bad it can be painted . Or allusion siding I could do sitting on the front deck using a brake for bending. After 2 years at 65 my money drops substantially so getting the house fixed before is a must. I have always fixed cars plummig fixed floors and washer dryers . Top load washers are easy to fix and parts are evrywhere .The front load washers today have to get a computer mechanic because evrything runs off a circuit bord, The specialist costs more than buying new so once your warranty is gone it's junk. I can't do much anymore but the hardware thing is I can't give away my knowledge . My kids don't want it .When I have 45 years working on cars and even I got ripped off by a mechanic who charged me $ 1.000 to put a new starter .. In 2018 my truck stopped starting . I changed the ground wires was going to change the posative wire but wasn't able to get under to see what else it had connected to the battery pos . I did everything but 2 days before needing my Truck to tow a 27ft trailer I called a place around the corner . The guy said it neadded a new starter . I bench tested it 2x and there was nothing wrong . I got it at $ 1000 cash but he put a push button start? He said the starter probably killed the ignition . No I changed it no different . I drove around the parking lot and told my wife pay cash . Went camping drove 100 klm to and same basic . after taking the trailer back I parked the truck for days .Went out to go somewhere truck doesn't start . Called the mechanic asked why it didn't last. He said bring it in and he would only charge by hr. Then he screwed up . Mike did you replace the power cable from the battery to the starter ? The light bulb went off in my head no he didn't ? I went out and open the hood grabbed the battery terminals and turned with easy pressure. I did the same on the starter . Everything was loose. I called him back and said if both cables from the battery and direct from battery to positive on the starter b wire are loose what would happen ? He said it would burn the wire. I told him he was a prick and I would have knocked his ass out. He kept lying . I bought a new posative cable put it on tightened everything . Got in the truck started it with the key and never had a problem since. Whenever somebody looks for mechanics near me. I went on everyone and said he is a thief and will rip you off . I told him read my review . People replied to my comments . A woman said she thought he ripped her off because he said he put a new part in and cost her $2000. A friend told her that new part was not changed. So people stopped going and they moved and changed the name.
My 1965 house is similar but I have a brick facade. The brickmold of the window is what held the window into the opening and was the weather barrier. Through me for a loop when i discovered that but they were the original windows and everything has been in much better condition than the window in this video.
1956 house here. Asbestos siding, no insulation, and my trim was the water barrier. Rotted trim and sills almost everywhere. I cut 2 of my sills off just like he did. There is a drip cap. Right now I am replacing 4 big windows. What a trip!
Very nice job! love the attention to detail. I'm buying an older home, and I'm trying to figure out what I can do, and what I need to pay someone to do. Thank you! Great video.
Oh damn! That really wasn't good! I'm only 9 sec in and my jaw is on the floor! "Please don't split." Famous last worst as the cedar splits with the next tap. OOPS! The new trim looks fantastic. Now you have to do the rest of the windows, HA. Kudos to your "Videographer". Was it Mrs. Fixer? Whomever it was they did a great job! The bloopers at the end are hilarious! Keep them coming! See you in the next one!
Really nice video. You certainly seemed to have been extremely thourough mitigating your problem goin forward. I learned quite a bit. I have rot around my front storm door. I need to replace all the brick mold and a filler piece that goes right up against my door frame jamb. I wanted to add some kind of protective tape or membrane, and your application of the flex tape is just what I think I'll use. My house is an old Spanish revival and the outer edge where the filler piece and brick mold run up against is masonry wall. I don’t think I need to run the flex tape all the way out to the edge of the masonry wall, just about an inch or so from the corner of the jamb edge. Thanks for the tip with the Flex Tape.
Way to go, Mr. I'll be looking thru your library. Thanks for explaining the drip groove, I probably would've overlooked that on my windows. I also like the look of your house from what I can see on here. I'm now considering shutters like yours, simple design, easy to reproduce.
New subscriber here. I am replacing my broken glass in an aluminum window and this is helpful. My building is a garage shop that is 24x48 metal building. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Watched you video on redoing the cellar bulkhead door and learned a lot; still need to work on phase two of that this summer. Also need to do the window repair. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
So i finally started ripping into my old window that needed repair yesterday. The more I dug the worse it got. There's no active wet spots so I'm certain the rot is very old. I got to solid wood and started building it back up with PVC boards. Figured they can never rot again. It's a process since nothing is true, square or modern/standard on my old house. Doing the best I can with it. This video sure does help though.
Ohmygoodnessgracioussakes! Your work as ALWAYS...EXCELLENT!! ...and this time for sure.... EXCELLENT camera work! Thank you for sharing your wonderful self & ideas!
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whoever is behind the camera is doing an excellent job, they anticipate what your audience needs to see and show it accordingly.
It's called editing.
I've seen better
@@mikekreen9336
It's still great camera work though. Many camera operators who are doing the actual recording seem to concentrate on just showing the RUclipsr's face instead of showing us the actual work that's being done.
@@Stringbean421 what do you mean by, "It's still great camera work though".??? I never once said it wasn't as I was agreeing with the comment of whoever is behind the camera is doing an excellent job. Only mentioning that during the editing process, when using a 4K camera or higher, you can easily make your sequence a 1080 project and post zoom all of your edits.
@@mikekreen9336
You mentioned 'Editing' which is nothing to do with the camera person at the time of filming. Editing is done post production.
I do appreciate your distinction of working with a table saw and circ saw when alone. Many/most of us will be working alone.
Since you are using larger piece why not cut with table saw rather than circ saw seems to me would be mire accurate and safer
I am a professional engineer specializing in forensic engineering for over 30 years. Among other engineering specialties, my practice includes moisture intrusion and resulting damage to the substrate. First, I observed that you correctly diagnosed the problem: water intruding at the head of the window because it lacked flashing to direct water out of the wall. I also observed that the base of the trim along the jamb was sealed. This holds trapped water and rots the trim and the substrate. Seal the sides and the top but not the bottom. I observed that you correctly sealed the substrate (sheathing) with waterproof tape. The greatest problem I observed was the absence of a moisture barrier (Grade D building paper or house wrap, e.g. Tyvek), not a vapor barrier, beneath the shingled siding. Remember that all veneers (siding, shingles like your house has, brick, stucco) leak. Attempts to prevent moisture intrusion by keeping water out of the wall is called the barrier method. As a moisture protection system, it doesn't work. The trick is to create a drainage plane that will intercept the water and carry it to a location where it can drain out. Incidentally, this is required by code. I advise folks that it is not the water you keep out of the wall; it's the water you get out of the wall. I hope this helps and I hope you have successfully solved your water intrusion problem.
Big genius over here everyone ☝️
Water will follow its own course, I agree
Thank you for the information
Very good! How would you retro fit a moisture barrier on a 1960 board & lath house?
Thank you for that info. Great info for us dyi folks.
Nice Job, only recommendation I would have, coming from a window install/weather barrier exterior guy, is that the bottom flange/sill of a window should practically never be caulked or taped shut, in fact it's highly recommended to push a few horseshoe shims up under the flange to leave a drain space. On this sort of fix, your best bet without pulling the windows entirely is to at least try to slip that tape up underneath the bottom flange, and then tape the top and sides, that way you also don't end up with an exposed backwards lap/ horizontal extrusion like you have with the bottom tape, which is also a big no-no, even with most real weather barrier systems' tape, because when the glue ages, or if it's not fully adhered, water WILL get behind it. I highly recommend that people not take lightly the process of doing your windows right, because done wrong, water or moisture will 100% be either seeping into your house from around the window, or sitting rotting out your sill. I was doing this work in Washington state, so yeah let's just say I seen some rain a time or two.
Whoa!
Thank you for these comments, as I agree it would be an improvement. I was watching this at the 16:30 mark and had the exact same thoughts about it being better to have either an extra piece of tape behind the window edge and over his main tape barrier, or have the single bottom tape barrier go behind the bottom edge of the window. Probably would need to pry that edge out a tiny bit to achieve this. Overall, this appears to be a nice explanation and process he is using here.
Thank you for saying this! I would have taken out the whole sill too.
So I fully understand, if using the tape, it should tuck under the lip of the window, correct? He puts it over and that cand lead to water going back in or just staying?
@@lucaskennedy1799 it WILL lead to water staying inside the window if there is ANY moisture or water that gets in, which can happen easily if there is any small hole or crack, water will find its way in, and the water will sit and rot the window sill, or maybe even overflow back inside your house into the drywall if there is no water backstop. The bottom of the outside of the window should be left open, usually just put shims under and screw the flange down, but inside the house, the bottom of the window should be fully caulked and sealed.
This is really helpful and validating about how darn long these "little" jobs take.
I have a friend with windows in about the same or worse shape and his house is crumbly old stucco. He knows I do carpentry and offered me $50 a window for repairs. I told him no thanks.
I always get a kick out of being told how long this little job will take!
The one thing I take away from this video is I'm going to have to hire someone to fix my windows but that's ok. I've gotten some really good tips from The Fixer. I appreciate you making this video.
I'm a home owner/DIY, and working on a window project. You have built my confidence in completing my project. Thanks.
C. H. Warren
Don't follow this video. The repair is not done correctly and will cause more water damage.
I don't have all of those fancy tools and at my age I don't want to spend money on them. That angle on the bottom of the trim pieces threw me for a loop. I cut it as best as I could then used a belt sander on low until I got it close enough. Thanks for the video. I always learn from these videos.
First time watcher. You have great delivery and explanations without all the unnecessary chit chat. Love how you talk through what you are doing and why as you move through the project. Excellent videography as well. I may have a little confidence now to fix some of my own dry rot. Will check out your other vids as well. Nice job.
Thank you so much!
Don't follow this video. The repair is not done correctly and will cause more water damage.
Well said! The what and why explanations are very important. Videography is first rate also!
Both you and the camera person are professionals. No cutting corners for you. You do top quality work that could be easily trusted. A rare thing these days.
Great video brother. I see this problem every day of my life as a professional painter. Very few people know how to attack this problem.
Respects
33:30 Glad to see you primed the cut edges (especially the end grain which soaks up water like a sponge). Many new homes are built with carpenters neglecting to do this. As if the painters can prime them after the trim has been nailed ~ not! Eight years later and the trim has to be replaced.. remember, this new growth wood isn’t as tightly grained as the wood homes were built with in the last centuries. I’ve subscribed to your channel!
This was a no joke fix it. Nice job. Someone will come along in 100 years and think, someone was not messing around with this repair.
That's funny that repair is not going to last a 100 years
The plantation pine will be rotted and disintegrated within a decade or two as the caulk and paint fail, and those vinyl windows will also need replacing around the same time. "They don't make things like they used to." Old-growth wood window components coupled with lead paint meant windows that could last 100+ years even with a fair amount of neglect. Cheap replacement windows generally can't be repaired, it's just throw them in the landfill after a few decades and buy all new ones. This guy made a good effort but these are not repairs that will stand the test of time, unfortunately.
The FIXER. The gift that keeps on giving! 😊. Thanks.
Always a good day when there's another video from The Fixer. And I had to watch it, right now.
👍😁
Thank you! You helped me save a couple thousand bucks! Got my rotten sill replaced and used flex paint instead of tape as my store nearby didn't have the tape. paint worked great. Thank you so much!
My window sill also needed repairs, so I removed the windows and made my own sill. This took me about 4 days to fix. I also had to repair the stucco around the window. Doing the sill your way would have been much easier. Your repair came out great, and so did mine. Good job.
This is not that great at all lol 😂
I bought this old house im in dirt cheap and all the windows are like that. Thats a sweet repair job you did. Now i have an idea. Thanks for sharing.
Great job!
If you do any more windows, leave a gap from the bottom of the shingles and the drip cap. This way water won't wick up behind the shakes. I had to redo a couple of mine because they were touching and wicking water up behind the shakes in heavy rains - fortunately I saw it before any permanent damage was done.
More like, you need to do all the windows..
Excellent job.
hi, do you men do not puch the cap all the way in? after this video i going to do my 14 windows..
@@bel2665yes… the water will wick up behind there. A larger gap will help the water fall away. Any situation like this should have a gap, but with wood siding, AND end grain, it’s extra necessary. Hopefully the flex tape holds, and he will only have to replace that little top strip of shakes above the window. There are better brands of tape with adhesive that lasts longer, and generally it is pushed down with a hard rubber roller. Regarding the water gap… if you remember back in school the water molecule has a positive charge on one side and negative on the other, like a Lego. This allows water to hold onto itself, and it will create layers of molecules called water films. This works with layers over layers UNTIL the weight of the water is too much and the water falls away (aka water drips). If the water has something hard to cling to on both sides and that gap is narrow, then the number of water films needed to fill the gap is lower, and the weight of the films is never enough to drip. 😉
Good job on the repair. Looks better than new. I have worked on older home rehabs and can appreciate the effort you made to be sure you have a 50-year repair.
Now that I have watched this entire video, I will call a carpenter.
😂👍
😂
Great job! My house I'm working on was built in 1834. I'm replacing the windows. I was surprised how sq. they were. We done 11 and have 6 more to go! I think they will wait till next year!! But now I've got to replace one of the sills. We bought our house in 1970. We replacer the slate roof 30 years ago. This year we had a steel roof put on. At 71 my wife didn't want me on the roof! Side note, I bought a foam gun (#14) one of the best things I've bought!!!! Thanks for the video.
Foam guns are awesome, as long as you use that cleaner can after. Spent some fun hours cleaning those suckers out with screws and crap when company didn't didn't provide the foam cleaner spray cans. Be a shame to ruin a 50 dollar spray gun over a 5 dollar bottle of cleaner!
This was awesome! Last year, I redid sills in windows in front of my house almost just like you did. They were rotted all the way across, and then about 4 inches up each side. I learned Lowes has mill lumber that matched the pattern of the uprights. Using pressure treated 2X's, I also had to match angles on the sill. Mine turned out to be 10 degrees, not 15, but my house is 1990 vintage. I had no training, or any direction whatsoever, I just decided to try it and see how it would turn out (and no way could I do it without that handy dandy oscillating tool). This year I get to do the ones in the back, so I'm very glad to see I was on the right path here. Thanks!
Awesome, good luck on the other ones and thanks for watching! 😃
@@TheFixerHomeRepairI wish you could teach me how to fix my house. I need more power tools! These videos are wonderful!
Oh my gosh!! We are in the process of repairing the exact same issue where I'm renting. But I live in a shack basically. Single wall construction. Zero wall framing. It was built in the 50s as 'temporary' housing for soldiers. 70 years later and it's still standing! Personally I feel it's being held together with the caulking we've added to the inner toung and groove walls and outside on the siding each and every overlap of redwood. It keeps the insects from marching through the space between the toung and groove grooves. I was amazed at the huge space they left around your window! I love your calm mellow demeanor. I would have been cussing. Think how much money you'll save on heating and a/c! You did beautiful work. Thank you for each explanation. I just learned of the drip groove last week. And we too will be putting down a barrier tape. But since my walls are a total of 1 1/2" there is no space for insulation, we'll be straddling the perimeter of the opening for a water proof barrier. Water made it's way down a tongue and groove groove and bubbled up my interior wall paint with blisters. So that's next on the list. Thanks again and your a great teacher. No blabbing on about nonsense, (like me right now) you are not condescending in any way and that's a peave of mine. Take care.🤘😎👍
I have painted cedar shingles from the 1890s on my house, so I really appreciate this video! You don't see very many tutorials that incorporate what to do with this type of siding.
Just done my own by trial and error - before watching this. Am curious to compare notes. I'm pleased with my work. A true 'bodge' repair. From what I can see the use of silicone and wood against masonry are the culprits for my rot.
Like usual, your work is impeccable and your video is extremely informative and detailed. Great work, Matt.
Thanks a lot!
each end of flashing needs silicon
@@Melicoy did you miss that part?
agree....
@@TheFixerHomeRepair Good Job Bro ! ✍
I've been trying to find videos on how to make exterior sills. Yours is the only one that I've found that's actually useable. The sill that I need to replace looks exactly like yours in terms of rot. My main concern was how to cut the angles, so you solved that issue for me and also I'll be using a circular saw to make my angles. Thanks a lot for making informative, easy to follow, common sense, right amount of chatter and humor thrown in, down to earth-videos. Have a nice day!
.
I'm glad to hear that it was helpful and thanks for watching! 😃
Thorough and precise. You are a very skilled artisan. Your channel is as good as "This Old House".
I know that I started with This Old House as a great resource YOUR video is so informative and very step by step !!! I loved it. Thank you and the videographer ❤❤
First time viewer who says that was an excellent presentation, complete with descriptions, fine instructions and demonstration. I have over 40 years of handyman experience, so I know something about what I speak. I almost forgot to mention your work and outcome is excellent as well. Thank your for providing me a fine tutorial! I have three windows requiring the same, or very similar treatment. It's one of my upcoming summer of '25 projects.
Looks great and wow was that trim rotten. Just a suggestion from what I've always been told, the drip cap on top of the top trim should have a 1/4" to 3/8" gap above it so that water can run out easily and won't wik up keeping the bottom of the siding shingles wet.
So glad a stumbled onto your videos...I have an 1850's house and your tips and tricks are going to be a big help. Didn't know anything about the drip cut under the sills. We replaced windows 5yrs ago and can say that nothing was sealed like that on the outside. Thank you...
Save yourself a headache and sell the house
Very professional job, couple of fun facts, when you dull the point of your nails it’s called brad your nails, and the groove on bottom of sill is called a quirk
😮🤯 very cool! Thanks for sharing!
Im british and the groove is known as carpilary groove and a brad is the small nails without a head funny how we are differnt across the pond.
@@gerrynicol3951loop.
😊
Nice job, enjoy time, it was easy to watch
I am sitting in awe of your craftsmanship 😊❤❤ 46:05
Having Done this myself throughout the years here in New England! The Sills rot more with the OLDER Replacements that weep inside the casings ,,Newer windows have solved this problem !! Older houses that Have been neglected or without Paint for years seem to be problematic as well ,, good Video and like that you gave a lil insight to what it truly takes to to the proper repairs!! Awesome work!
I really appreciate the time you took to make it understandable for nonprofessionals. I'm not a fan of Bondo (I prefer Abatron's epoxy products), but your techniques are excellent. I have a 100 year old house, so It's nice to see someone working on an older home. I subscribed, so I can find you when I need help.
Bondo does not expand and contract as wood does. You want to use a filler that does expand and contract.
So did I 😊
I get similar caulk, paintable exterior but also with anti-mildew/mold protection. Have not used it yet. Forget to sat Thank You! And really good camera person.
Excellent video for our future repairs. The person taking the video did an AWESOME JOB!!!! Loved how they followed you during each step!!!! 10 👍 up to your videographer❣️❣️❣️❣️Thanks for this informative video.
I never would have thought I could make my own window sill and custom trim. You make everything look so easy, and make so much sense.
Great video! Love all things "repairs" to older houses. Very satisfying knowing that window is rock solid against the weather. Nice work! Liked your tip on splitting the difference when working on older homes.
Yes it’s so helpful that the work is on an older house. I’m in a very damp U.K. 50 yards from the beach in a 100 year old cottage built from rocks off the shore and with no insulation. Conditions are harsh and my wooden porch’s time is running out but also so much more to do to prevent further damage. I’ve never done diy before and have so much to learn, apparently there are different types of sandpaper for different jobs! Oh yes my lack of knowledge is as bad as that 🤦♀️
@@sheenavaughan2717 It might be a bit more time intensive, but useful to pre-paint the wood before you assemble everything. I had a rotten door frame due to rain (UK too) and painted the replacement timber to prevent rot even if there is water ingress. Sound counterintuitive but masonry paint works for that, since it's made to create a waterproof layer.
Excellent news in reference to the rot -- I was under the assumption that it spreads even when dried. Thanks! 🙏
Another job well done! I've searched and searched for basically this video, as all of my house sills are in a similar state of disrepair ('55 cape in the north east 😅) and you, sir did not disappoint! I'm glad I waited. I can always count on you to answer my home repair needs eventually! 😂
This is a good video. This Old House also has a very good bottom sill repair if you want to check it out. They're all very helpful, especially alot of us have older homes.
Awesome job, brother. Much respect from a canadian carpenter and father
You know todays carpenters would definitely not take the time to make that drip groove. 😃
Good job man.
I’m a fixer too. I’ve had a handyman business for 10’years now. I have to do all kinds of different stuff for people. It’s insane all the stuff I need to know how to do. And to do it correctly.
hi, how much does it cost - material wise to repair the window sill?
@@christineburgess-marrell1792 hi just the wood? Probably like 20
bucks. That’s in California
Sad but true re: workmanship now
Wish I had someone as handy and knowledgeable as you🧐🥰
Helped put siding on my house I had years ago, it’s a lot of work. Someone else put in new windows.
Great content! Done as a normal home owner, with decent skills would do !! Folks dealing with 20+ to older homes understand, or need to understand... square and plumb works on steel I beams, but not old homes. It is always a compromise. But I learned from you again today. "split the difference".... I do not usualy do that. But I will think in that way next to see if I can make it blend rather than have a good side and a bad side.
Thank you my friend. I just encountered the same exact thing on gable side window (no rain cap). I was thinking "I'm not sure I can do this repair". Now, I know I can (and will) using your great tips and technique.
Your videos are so addictive
Can't stop watching
I got to do my rotted garage doors with bondo
Friends have the same situation on their garage dating back to the 40s. This is very helpful and how to repair it. This video shows that it involves more than just replacing the sill.
Thank you
Great attention to detail. So important to make the finished job look right
This guy is very thorough. Takes pride in his work, and treats this job as if it were his own home.
I think it is his own home. The way he mentioned the framing being two years old from when he did a living room remodel. Regardless very thorough and does everything correctly like you said.
Yes it's his house.
28:55 that hole really should have been pre-drilled. The screw threads are biting into the sill more than they are pulling into the plywood behind it. The general rule is, you drill or nail from the smaller timber into the larger timber, but since you cannot in this case, it's even more important to pre-drill.
Very nice work and attention to details. Your extra steps to insure accuracy will help this last much longer. I really enjoyed your positive attitude and simple explanations. Cheers!
Thanks David, I appreciate it!
Instant subscribe - my 1965 house needs love, and as a Brit I have NO idea how the house is even constructed!
Thanks for subscribing!
Nice job and very helpful. One criticism I would make is that I frequently see people thinking that they are going to seal wood up to make it water proof and that’s simply not practically possible. The biggest thing is to have way for the water to get out so that the wood dries out, and water always has an “easy” escape route and a harder ingress route. The best thing you did on the project was install the drip cap and then the plastic moisture barrier all of which is designed to move the water away from penetrating the house. Painting the end grain is good too! But any place water accumulates is a potential problem. In any case, it looks to me like you shouldn’t have to touch this again over the course of your life time.
Beautiful job! All the sills on our Apt house need this, but I doubt the Maint crew have any idea how to do it right like this! That rain cap is key to the whole thing! Thanks! Nice to see some real and sensible carpentry again! I remember my father teaching me the "flatten the nail tip to prevent splitting the wood" trick!
It's so satisfying watching you chisel all that stuff off. Lol. Good video. Informative
the suspense of if you were gonna finish before it rained!! Thanks for your videos. I always learn a lot.
To the WINDOW --- To the WALLS !! Great video again !
🤣😁 thanks!
New subsriber here and you make great videos. I just concluded a 20 year experiment after replacing rotted fascia, drip ege, and soffitt made of LP OSB crap (yeah, I got a grand total of $200 in the class-action litigation settlement to fix a whole house) with just plain white wood from Lowes. The experiment was to see if soft white wood would rot if it was completely sealed front, back, sides, and especially cut ends with two coats of latex Kilz primer, then two coats of latex Sherwin Williams ext house paint. This past week I had to pull off some of the the 3" drip edge from the 6" fascia and create a new drip edge with 6" wood in order to hang gutters. This wood got wet for 20 years and I was astounded that it was as solid as the day I put it up and dang it, I actually split the fascia trying to get it off. The LP stuff completely rotted in five years, much of it from just absorbing atmospheric moisture. I could have used Hardie but it was new then and I was kind of worried about what was in the sawdust, plus, the pieces come very long and I had no helper so I used 8' wood. The only downside is that painting so much while sawing and building would slow down your work if it's your trade, and you'll get some paint on your saw. But, for a DIYer with plenty of time, I recommend it.
*Remember back in the day when High Schools taught a little thing called "Industrial Arts"? Learning how to do this kind of work was part of your education. Today, people rely on RUclips Videos. We live in a weird world*
*This was a good video. Concise & Informative...Thanks* 🔥
Agree, it is a shame kid these days don't get that education.
We had industrial arts, but we didn't learn stuff like this. I wish we could've.
@@lazybbones *2nd Semester of my Senior year, we literally built miniature houses. Complete with a cinder block foundation, plumbing, electrical, at least one interior drywall/plastered wall, sliding windows, hinged doors, attics, lapp board siding and shingled pitched roofs...Our final pass/fail grade was based on how well or how bad a job we did*
@@Fireworxs2012 That would be so awesome. My Junior and Senior year, I was in Power Mechanics, learning small engine, and in senior year, learning how to work on cars. The first year was way more structured than the second year. I didn't learn much in that class in the senior year. Lots of great memories, though.
@@lazybbones *Everything serious I know about engines I learned working for BNSF 17 years as a Locomotive Machinist. Most of those miniature houses were auctioned off at the end of the school year for people to use as garden sheds. Think of an oversized doghouse for size. They were great for keeping tools like shovels, rakes & whatnots. They also made nice little garden green houses. Most of them sold in the $200 range, but that was 1980 dollars. It was fun & educational and the things I learned about constructing houses have stuck with me my whole life*
I'm looking at buying a house that has this issue. Thanks for giving me the confidence I can handle this issue😊
Hope those new babies are doing well. Glad to see a new video......PS I love the bloopers!!!
They babies are doing great, thanks for asking!
Awesome video, im from uk and have only completed a cill repair in college, so to see a real life example answers a lot of questions i still have (despite the difference in house construction between uk/us). Really good explaination!👍🏻
I thoroughly enjoy watching your work! You pay such attention to detail! Thank you for posting! I hope you don't have like 10 or more windows to duplicate this on, seeing as how the other ones probably don't have the rain guards either. :(
Ditto, Perfecto
This is exactly what I needed. Except my project is on my second floor bedroom ! Not a bad slope but the window is tall. I'll be using flex tape thanks to you! Lucky for me I'm a nurse and I get a bunch of surgical cloths and laps from work to wipe all my paint/caulk/juju on. They were going to be trashed. Thanks so much!
Subscribe to my channel: bit.ly/SubscribeToTheFixer
Thanks for watching! 😃
Great video. I just came across your channel and as someone who has worked on anything with an engine and can make a lot out of metal I never really got into the wood material building type stuff. But with a really old house I have to start taking care of some things. The way I've seen your videos explain all the steps is great for someone like me. Gives me hope that an ol dummy like me can do it.
While rot doesn't migrate, it does attract undesirable pests, such as roaches and other bugs. While it's not fun and more work, the best approach would have been to pull the window and replace all of the damage for a long-term solution. The flex tape you installed will prevent any trapped water from escaping, whereby allowing an unknown water leak within the wall. Best practice is to have a 1/8" gap on the bottom flange.
Nice detailed video as always. And, the outtakes are still on point! 🤣
Thank you so much. I appreciate the detail. I'm going to try to fix my window seal soon and I think I got the same issue with the rain cap. I love the tape tip too. Brilliant 💡
It will cost a little more, but PVC trim “lumber” is available and is a suitable alternative that will never rot.
Replaced the trim around my garage door with it. Works great.
Is easy to follow. You show mistakes that everyone could make and make repairs easy for the viewer. Ty
I can't wait to see the whole house covered with Bondo.
😂
Most people don't realize Bondo is porous It sucks up water. I was a body man for 16 years In the family owned body shop. The very place I learned how to do PDR if anybody doesn't know paintless dent removal. Use as little Bondo as necessary.
Beautiful job there buddy. Thanks for sharing this with us. Kudos to the cameraman / lady.
As a unskilled female, with this video I think I can actually fix two windows that really need attention so thank you so much!!!! Now I just need to borrow some tools hahaha
Don't follow this video. The repair is not done correctly and will cause more water damage.
@@ChrisAnnasMom Okay, any references, keywords, or titles for what is the "right way"?
So glad I found your channel, you’re a great teacher! The bloopers are an added bonus 😂
Nice work. My only suggestion would have been to use low-expanding spray foam instead of the fiberglass insulation and AZEK trim boards.
He has said in a previous video he doesn’t like expandable foam.
LOL, clearly you edit this very well. Do love how you explain things so clearly.❤
Gold star home inspection would say "no flashing on top of the window trim--that ain't right"
😂😂😂
Well done . We replaced all of the windows upstairs about 10 years ago when I got some money from compensation. That's all gone and we paid off the house about 2 years ago .
The back sliding door doesn't allow for me to go out and BBQ on our deck.
So we also ha 2 more windows to replace. Both the sliding glass door and full size split into 1 large window with a sliding window that is for airing out the kitchen . They are facing south. Even though we are in southern Ontario Canada it gets both hot and cold.
If any water gets in behind the sill . In the winter water freezes behind pushing evrything forward . There is rot around the sliding door but will be replaced with the new glass door that opens out so my walker will go through easyer .
We also have the original 1990 cranking window facing west .
So 3 to replace then the bay window facing north .This one isn't bad it can be painted .
Or allusion siding I could do sitting on the front deck using a brake for bending.
After 2 years at 65 my money drops substantially so getting the house fixed before
is a must. I have always fixed cars plummig fixed floors and washer dryers .
Top load washers are easy to fix and parts are evrywhere .The front load washers today have to get a computer mechanic because evrything runs off a circuit bord,
The specialist costs more than buying new so once your warranty is gone it's junk.
I can't do much anymore but the hardware thing is I can't give away my knowledge .
My kids don't want it .When I have 45 years working on cars and even I got ripped off by a mechanic who charged me $ 1.000 to put a new starter ..
In 2018 my truck stopped starting .
I changed the ground wires was going to change the posative wire but wasn't able to
get under to see what else it had connected to the battery pos .
I did everything but 2 days before needing my Truck to tow a 27ft trailer I called a place around the corner .
The guy said it neadded a new starter . I bench tested it 2x and there was nothing wrong .
I got it at $ 1000 cash but he put a push button start?
He said the starter probably killed the ignition . No I changed it no different .
I drove around the parking lot and told my wife pay cash .
Went camping drove 100 klm to and same basic . after taking the trailer back I parked the truck for days .Went out to go somewhere truck doesn't start . Called the mechanic
asked why it didn't last. He said bring it in and he would only charge by hr.
Then he screwed up . Mike did you replace the power cable from the battery to the
starter ? The light bulb went off in my head no he didn't ?
I went out and open the hood grabbed the battery terminals and turned with easy
pressure. I did the same on the starter . Everything was loose.
I called him back and said if both cables from the battery and direct from battery to positive
on the starter b wire are loose what would happen ? He said it would burn the wire.
I told him he was a prick and I would have knocked his ass out.
He kept lying . I bought a new posative cable put it on tightened everything .
Got in the truck started it with the key and never had a problem since.
Whenever somebody looks for mechanics near me.
I went on everyone and said he is a thief and will rip you off .
I told him read my review . People replied to my comments . A woman said she thought he ripped her off because he said he put a new part in and cost her $2000.
A friend told her that new part was not changed. So people stopped going and they moved and changed the name.
It's crazy that your trim was being used as your water barrier around your window.
My 1965 house is similar but I have a brick facade. The brickmold of the window is what held the window into the opening and was the weather barrier. Through me for a loop when i discovered that but they were the original windows and everything has been in much better condition than the window in this video.
Lol
2:56my wall doesn't even have framing. :/ House from late 1800's. My trim is 2x6's. Rotted, two anyway. The wood just comes out with my finger.
Why can't you paint the side that sits against window?
1956 house here. Asbestos siding, no insulation, and my trim was the water barrier. Rotted trim and sills almost everywhere. I cut 2 of my sills off just like he did. There is a drip cap. Right now I am replacing 4 big windows. What a trip!
Very nice job! love the attention to detail. I'm buying an older home, and I'm trying to figure out what I can do, and what I need to pay someone to do. Thank you! Great video.
Oh damn! That really wasn't good! I'm only 9 sec in and my jaw is on the floor!
"Please don't split." Famous last worst as the cedar splits with the next tap. OOPS!
The new trim looks fantastic. Now you have to do the rest of the windows, HA.
Kudos to your "Videographer". Was it Mrs. Fixer? Whomever it was they did a great job!
The bloopers at the end are hilarious! Keep them coming!
See you in the next one!
Great job, I like the fact that you took time to make it match the other windows and adding all the details. Good work. 😊
I needed this video like 6 months ago for this exact problem.
Thanks for this!
This has given me the confidence to replace some rotted wood under my ugly vinyl siding. I'll do it now & not put it off.
Absolutely awesome video!! My sills are sad and this is giving me confidence to tackle the project.
Don't follow this video. The repair is not done correctly and will cause more water damage.
I'm glad you did it the right way and didn't just bondo the rotten portions like other videos I've seen. Great job!
I love the way you explain things. Your finished window looks amazing. 👌
Really nice video. You certainly seemed to have been extremely thourough mitigating your problem goin forward. I learned quite a bit. I have rot around my front storm door. I need to replace all the brick mold and a filler piece that goes right up against my door frame jamb. I wanted to add some kind of protective tape or membrane, and your application of the flex tape is just what I think I'll use. My house is an old Spanish revival and the outer edge where the filler piece and brick mold run up against is masonry wall. I don’t think I need to run the flex tape all the way out to the edge of the masonry wall, just about an inch or so from the corner of the jamb edge. Thanks for the tip with the Flex Tape.
Way to go, Mr. I'll be looking thru your library.
Thanks for explaining the drip groove, I probably would've overlooked that on my windows. I also like the look of your house from what I can see on here. I'm now considering shutters like yours, simple design, easy to reproduce.
I REALLY like how detailed you explain everything! You're an excellent craftsman!
Awesome. Thank you for the feedback!
New subscriber here. I am replacing my broken glass in an aluminum window and this is helpful. My building is a garage shop that is 24x48 metal building. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Watched you video on redoing the cellar bulkhead door and learned a lot; still need to work on phase two of that this summer. Also need to do the window repair. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
So i finally started ripping into my old window that needed repair yesterday. The more I dug the worse it got. There's no active wet spots so I'm certain the rot is very old. I got to solid wood and started building it back up with PVC boards. Figured they can never rot again. It's a process since nothing is true, square or modern/standard on my old house. Doing the best I can with it.
This video sure does help though.
Ohmygoodnessgracioussakes!
Your work as ALWAYS...EXCELLENT!!
...and this time for sure....
EXCELLENT camera work!
Thank you for sharing your wonderful self & ideas!
Thanks a lot, I appreciate it!
Absolutely love your work!! Learning a lot
Love it at first I thought you were outside my kitchen window!!! I know what Im doing Sunday thank you so much for these videos man!
Awesome tutorial. My HOA is harassing me about my rotted window sill and I had no idea how to fix but now I have an idea.
Good luck with fixing it!
Awesome instructions … you make it look easy to replace a rotted window sill. Thank you!
You are welcome! Hope it helps!