James Hardie Siding Details! How To Install It By Yourself! DIY
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- Опубликовано: 7 май 2022
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Thank you for sharing. Might be a good idea to seal the ends. Cement board will suck up water. Something else to consider is nailing the siding to vertical furring strips to get air flow behind the siding to assist in drying. This would require a bug barrier.
You can always spot and EDUCATED individual. They are articulate, poised, fluid -- like you. GREAT video, no wasted time or information, no questions remained. THANKS!
Glad it was helpful.
Thank you kindly for sharing mate 🙏
You’re welcome
Your doing a fantastic job !!
Thank you so much!
Great info. Your explanation gave me a very clear understanding on this product. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great tips and reminders. Solid work
Appreciate it!
Thank you for such a clear explanation.
You're welcome
Very helpful video. All the details needed to install the siding.
Thanks!
Glad it was helpful.
Very well explained. Thanks.
You're welcome
I was needing this info, thank you Mr. Eggold, very helpful.
You're welcome
Excellent tutorial! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video! Thank you! Most videos right now are incomplete, or a someone pointing at stuff from their phone. Great production value!
Thank you so much. Glad it was helpful.
Very informative and you explain very well. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
You are a very good explainer! calm and to the point - well done - God bless !
Thank you. I appreciate it.
Thank you for the great video. I have never done hardie board siding and your video was very information and kept my attention throughout as you explained every step. I have done one wall on my well house and will finish the rest in the next few days.
Awesome. Glad it was helpful!
This was very helpful. Thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful!
My husband replaced our old siding with hardie plank boards. Absolutely love it.
That is awesome!
Excellent presentation and tutorial!👍
Thank you
Well done, about to attempt siding my home with hardie.
Thank you. Good luck
Thank you for sharing you knowledge!! You make it very easy to understand. You got a new subscriber
You're welcome
Thank you for useful information.
You're welcome
Great job.
Thank you!
This video deserves more views, nciely explained in such an easy to undertand manner for even newbies like me.
Much appreciated
Great video! Thank you
Thank you!
Thanks bud, i start a wjole house tomorrow, now im confident im doint it right👍
You're welcome
Well explained....good job. Now I'm going to do my siding..
Awesome. Thanks
@@CountryLivingExperience keep doing more videos I'll keep watching.... good job and I'll see you soon
This was very informative. Thanks.
You’re welcome
Helpful vid buddy, thanks for sharing!.
Glad to help!
Hey man awesome video, thank you for sharing the knowledge.
You’re welcome
great job, thank you.
Thank you
Your video was a huge help, thank you.👍🏼✌🏼🇺🇸
You’re welcome
Thanks for the info
You’re welcome
Nice video... thanks. Go green! :)
Thank you. Go White!
Perfect,thank you
You’re welcome
Excellent tutorial brother
Thank you
I didn't see the nailer and type of nails you used in the description. Very helpful. I have my trim done, studs marked, about ready to buy materials and go.
I used a 21° framing nailer with 2.25" plastic ring shank nails.
Fine job!
Thank you
Thank you so much!!!
You’re welcome
Thank you so much for sharing the details and giving us close up visuals. I'm assuming it's your wife who is holding the camera. Shout out and thank you to her for taking her time to be detailed and zooming in to show us the tiny details(for example at the point when you say " 1/8 gap from our trim and our siding, our nail is about an inch from the top" and "hanging a little below the starter strip" ) seriously, thank you. I appreciate the honesty, sincerity, and the explanation.
Thank you Kathy. Glad the video was helpful.
I am the one moving the camera all around. My wife said thank you anyway though.
@@CountryLivingExperience But who got the close ups? Give a shout out to your wife. Tell her you love her.
My 2019 Hardie instructions say but the joints in moderate contact with the flashing card behind.
Great videos, very helpful!
Glad it was helpful
Great video! #gogreen!
Thank you! Go White!
Bruh you’re a great teacher
Thank you
Very good video. Learned few things. I replaced my wood boards with Hardie cement fiber lap siding in 2011-2012. I used screws instead of nails cause nail gun was bit expensive however love it. it is still perfectly intact as day one and i think it'll stay same.
Awesome
I'm thinking of using screws aswell. Have you noticed any issues with having used screws when the temperature fluctuates?
@@LSDMTHSEE No. So far i did not face any issue. Everything is still intact as day one.
Great idea to use pt for trim. Nice savings. Aluminum flashing, however, should not be in contact with it with your drip caps, etc., as it will corrode rather quickly due to the extra copper in the treated wood. Great video. Thanks.
Will it corrode galvanized flashing?
@@CountryLivingExperience you need to use copper flashing for PTit comes in a roll
@@CountryLivingExperience yes
@@Astrnauted what is "PT" in your comment above?
@@MonicaSmith Pressure Treated
Go green, great video
Thank you. Go White!
I just picked me up some lengths of this stuff for free at the local waste transfer station for FREEEEE! It's gonna be the shell of my wood shed. Finest looking wood shed on the block I bet! : D
Free is the best price!
Great video! I may be attempting to install Hardie on a few sides of my home in the near future and this video gave me a lot of helpful information. Any chance you have a video on how to prep/ install Tyvex etc. before putting the siding up? Or is there a video you can recommend?
Thanks.
Glad it was helpful. I don't have a video on installing the Tyvek. It is easy. Just staple it to the wall sheathing. Layer it starting from the bottom of the wall and working up.
Another great video. I am considering hardy board for a shed on my Texas property. I am replacing the external sheeting (OSB) and may use hardy board as a Wayne’s coating for the lower portion. I don’t have a good idea on how to keep the OSB dry but maybe flashing and caulking are involved. By the way the existing siding is vinyl. Thanks and all the best from north Texas.
You’re welcome.
Yes, you’ll need flashing and caulk to transition materials.
thank you
You're welcome
Thanks bro
You’re welcome
Hello, thx for info. Question, did you leave block of wood at conduit? Block of wood, another butt joint cut out on next board?
Great video, lots of great info. I need to replace some lower boards on a part of my house that the upper boards were replaced. Since I will blind nail them, how would I nail the top board after I put it under the ones already there?
You're welcome. That may be a challenge. You will either have to lift up the board above it to see if you can blind nail the last one. If that does not work, you will have to face nail it and cover up those nails with sealant.
You should have shown us how you worked around that electrical block.
I see in the diagram you post not to caulk certain areas on the wall; this is to allow condensation to run out. I have to redo all my soffit and siding next year as well as replace much of the wall sheathing on the garage. I just replaced the back door to the garage and had to rebuild the entire rough opening and 90" of sheathing because of termite damage. I'll do the remaining 18' next spring along with the soffit and siding. For now I just put back the original siding.
Cool
Thank you for your insight. Two Q's: 1.) How do you cover the nails on the top layer of siding? I haven't seen anyone cover that issue in any video. 2.) I couldn't quite catch how to treat the top of the block (or a window, for example). Do you put an "L" shaped flashing piece above the top trim board? Thank you! The flashing between joined pieces helped.
You're welcome. 1. you can either bring it to the underside of the soffit and put a piece of trim on top or place that trim first like on the sides and butt that last piece into it. You have to make a very precise cut to do that though. 2. Yes, just use a piece of z flashing or bend one yourself for above any opening/block out.
I wish you would have showed how to trim around the windows, do we leave 1/8 gap around the window for caulking ?
Yes, leave a small gap for caulk.
Is that treated lumber for the trim and block outs? haven't seen much of that but it looks good.
Thank you. Yes it is.
One day we two will have a Homestead until then bless you guys and we wish you the best of luck and everything that you’re doing for taking the time to make a video
I pray that you will find your homestead soon.
Great video!!
My wife and I just bought an old farmhouse with 7 acres and some outbuildings. There was a guy who owns a concrete business rented from the previous owners, and was removing his equipment when he approached me to ask if I was interested in something.
Turns out it was a bad pallet of hardy board!
The wife had specifically mentioned, not wanting to use vinyl siding when it came time to close up the house, so the timing on this was perfect.
He had gotten it for a good deal, and so he gave us an even better deal so he didn’t have to move it…score!!!
Anyway…what are you nailing these up with?
Thank you.
We used a nail gun with 2 1/4" plastic ring shank nails.
You can flash trim detail at windows and corners
Thank you for the great video!! Is Hardie Board able to be installed directly over the house-wrapped studs? Or do you need to put up plywood or OSB first? I have a 2X6 structure and the studs are 24inch OC
Thanks in advance!
I believe you can but you should really have sheathing on your house. Sheathing adds to the rigidity of the structure and helps with air entrance which is crucial for maintaining a stable inside environment.
@@CountryLivingExperience Thank you!
The sheating will make it so if someone falls against it ,etc the siding won't crack.
Great video! Thanks!
Question how tall was your starter plank? Does it matter?
You're welcome. The starter strip on the bottom was about 2" tall
@@CountryLivingExperience Thanks!
You can use peel and stick tape or tar paper for butt joints also
When you are leaving the expansion gaps and putting flashing behind the two butted boards, I assume you are caulking in that gap just like you would at the ends meeting the trim. Correct?
No. Those butt joints in the middle of the wall do not get caulked at all. It is the flashing that diverts the water out.
Can you please make a quick video how to cut the material around obstacles, I kind of wanted to see how you did that and the final results, I have a job coming next month , and I can definitely use your help, thank you
They are just simple cuts. Every job will be different. Just cut as you need.
I got Nichiha instead of hardy, but I was wondering if they actually shrink and expand with temperature fluctuations, so two days ago, when it was 7°F outside I measured the length of one of the planks and it measured right at 12ft. I don't believe it shrinks at all. To give you an idea of how much materials shrink, 6061-T6 Aluminum, 12 ft. long would change 5/32 of an inch between 90°F and 7°F. Polycarbonate would change over 3/8" over the same temperature range for 12ft.
It's not the hardy that shrinks and expands its the wood around it.
Greetings!
1) How did you make the cut around the block for the electric penetration? Does the board go up to the side of the block?
2) For windows, do you recommend installing the window trim first and then installing the boards up to the edge of the trim?
Thanks!
Hello.
1. I cut as needed. Every cut is going to be unique for everyone. The siding board goes up to the side, yes.
2. Yes, install the window trim first and then butt the siding up to it.
Great video ! What size nails do you recommend again?! Thanx
Thanks. 2 1/4" plastic ring shank
Nice Video. Answered nearly all of my questions. I used the same hardie to make the little starter pieces, and realized my nails are sinking too deep. ran some more tests. noticed you are using the same harbor freight banks nailer I have. cool. But if I lower the air pressure, to about 80psi, the nail still sinks too deep, and if I go lower, the gun don’t shoot a nail. I have 0.113 x 2.375” , 21 Degree, smooth shank nails (grip rite GR071M). Any ideas on how to sop blowing through the hardie?
Sounds like we have the same equipment and nails. I am not sure why yours are sinking too deep. Mine are flush.
I use Paslode nail guns, but hoping maybe yours is the same. On most nail guns, the part that depresses can be adjusted up or down depending on how deep you want your nails. It's a lot easier than yrying to find the air pressure that works best. Hope this helps
Hi, if you have OSB behind where you're putting up the Hardie plank, is it easy to get the siding tool out? What are the tricks to Sliding that little puppy out. Thank, DJ
Very easy. I have OSB behind mine.
Your illustrations are great. Few points that you brought up that James hardy did not suggest butt joint is a problem at all. They even recommend it because the plank does not expand or contract. If you have a wood panel for the house, you can randomly nail the planks. I thank you for your video. The price of Gecko runs from 28 - 86 but the one you are using is 19 to 25 as of today per the websites.
Thanks
What does the block out do? It looks like it needs flashing behind it too. Good tip on the Malco things
It is easier to cut around and flash because it is square. Yes, you will need flashing on the top of it as well.
Me gustas porque a todos les respondes ,muy bueno de tu parte,una pregunta en las uniones se pone un flashin galvanizado,puedo poner silicona por detrás entre metal y el siding,gracias use google traductor
You can put some silicone but it must only be at the top of the flashing piece. It water gets behind it, it must drain out of the bottom.
Got hail damage insurance cut me check line 2 for description Says 2.Builder board-1\2"(composition or fiberboard sheathing). This is conjunction with House wrap?
quick question- i see you left small gaps at the end cuts. The houseI am buying has silicone or caulk there. Needed? Optional? Thanks
Needed. Glad the house has it there.
Is it recommended to have osb or sheathing behind the house wrap? Or are the studs wrapped with house wrap without the sheathing?
You should always have sheathing.
For your joint flashing, could you use flashing tape?
Metal flashing is best
How do you side an area that windows were walled off? Above the windows are existing lap board siding. I can get matching siding but not sure how to make a seamless transition as I will be siding from the bottom of the wall, over the frame where windows were but need to connect to the siding that end above the windows.. hopefully I make sense
It is really not advisable to try to marry two different siding materials together. I would advise taking off all of the old siding and installing the new.
great Video!! Are the painters supposed to caulk the bottom of each board? I appreciate your answer.
You’re welcome. No, the bottoms of the boards should not be caulked. They need to be open so that water can escape if it gets behind them.
Thank you!!@@CountryLivingExperience
Where did you purchase siding nails for your framing pneumatic Nailer and also for hammer installation?
Home Depot
@@CountryLivingExperience What brand and part number? What brand and part number for nails for framing pneumatic nail gun? Thanks
I wish my siding contractor had watched your videos first!
Many contractors don't care.
Great video!! I'm getting ready to do this but had 2 questions:
1. I noticed you're not using a coil siding gun. What's your setup for gun and nails?
2. How did you handle the very top plank so the nails don't show?
Thanks.
I have a framing nailer with 2.5" plastic ring shanks.
Mine show on the top. Paint to hide them.
Or you could cut something similar to the starter strip to hide the nails, that's what we do when we do siding ( if soffit is already installed). But usually we don't have to worry about that because soffit with J channel will be hiding it.
what type of nailer did you use? also great video!
I used a framing nailer with 2.5" plastic ring shank nails.
No weep holes? No venting?
Did you not flash the corners where the trim is because of the house wrap?
The inside corners are flashed. Not the exterior corners. They should be but my contractor didn't know what he was doing. I could have gone back and done it but since that house wrap is around the corner, I didn't worry too much about it.
I'm putting up the straight hardie shingles on my garage. The power feed box is attached to the existing cedar shingles with no cut out. Should I make a cutout for the 200 A box or put the hardie shingles up and screw the box onto the outside of the shingles? Thanks
Make a cutout in the shingles. That is the best and most effective way to do it.
@@CountryLivingExperience Thanks. Could the electrician install the box on the wall and then install the shingles around the box after?
Yes
Muchas gracias sr! You are the besst
De Nada
Hey!
I moved into a new build with my wife. I noticed our white hardie still has nails still showing from the installation. It looks like they did nailed in an inch from the top, but they also nailed the bottom to prevent it from flapping. Is that normal?Are they supposed to cover that up and touch up with paint? I’ve brought it up with the builder and they haven’t done anything about it.
That is not a proper install. No nails in the bottom at all.
Can it be screwed to metal studs in a commercial building project instead of nailed?
Yes. Check Hardie's website for approved screw types.
Where did you buy your Tyvek house wrap? All the Home Depot and Lowes stores around here sell only their cheap Tyvek imitation house wrap.
I got it at Lowes
DUDE! This was an awesome video. Im building a house and the contractor wants about 5k to hang these boards. Im thinking if I just take some time off of work I can spend a week or so and do it myself. Thanks!
Cool. Glad it was helpful.
Was a week to do yourself a good time estimate?
What kind of siding nails did you use. See that they were not coil nails.
What nail gun are you using. great video. Thanks.
Thank you. It is just a cheap Harbor Freight Banks 21° framing nailer. Works well.
@@CountryLivingExperience thanks man!
Im thinking about removing the old 27 year old T 111 particle board siding from the entire back of my house as its falling apart. Once the Hardie board is up how do you attach utility brackets that are screwed into the existing siding. Things like a A/C chase that comes down the entire side, and the brackets that hold a condensate pipe for the A/C. Hold is the thin Hardie board going to hold up with utility things screwed into it being so thin? Thanks .
You would need to use longer screws and go into the wall framing and/or sheathing. You should also add blockouts like I did around the electrical conduit.
Copy that. Appreciate this. @@CountryLivingExperience
Question: Can you install this product over old stucco?
Potentially. You may need longer nails depending on how thick the stucco is. Also, existing stucco needs to still be water resistant and in "decent" condition.
Can you use any material for your trim around the windows and on the ends? I wanted to trim everything with redwood then butt up the hardie plank. Would that be an ok way to do it?
You can but make sure it makes financial sense. I don't know if redwood would cost more than Hardie trim.
That’s a great point! Thanks! I’m fixing a house where someone just put the trim over the top of the hardie plank…
@@Savagez77 Glad you are correcting it.
I've watched several of these videos and most of them suggest putting a spacer to create an air gap between the siding and the moisture barrier. Is there a reason you didn't?
That is an option but is not necessary. It can help dry out the cavity faster behind the siding if water gets back there. If you add those furring strips, you will need to put a bug shield down at the bottom under the row of siding closest to the ground.
what kind of foundation is that??? looks like a manufactured home on blocks. I have installed miles of this probuct and built show displays for James Hardie products. You did a great job. Now one thing I would suggest is that you intall it with a rain curtain. Also tape all of your weather barrier overlaps and seams.
Thank you.
This is a common foundation in rural Texas. It is technically pier and beam but the piers are just block on grade. On the addition, there is a small poured deep pier of 24". This is a traditional stick framed house.
@@CountryLivingExperience thanks for the reply. Your work is very clean
If staying 1” from edge of boards - where do you nail butt joints. 2” need with only 1.5” available.
Did you flash the boards where it meets the trim?
No. It is caulked at that junction