You can always spot and EDUCATED individual. They are articulate, poised, fluid -- like you. GREAT video, no wasted time or information, no questions remained. THANKS!
Thank you for sharing. Might be a good idea to seal the ends. Cement board will suck up water. Something else to consider is nailing the siding to vertical furring strips to get air flow behind the siding to assist in drying. This would require a bug barrier.
Wife and i installed that stuff on our house about ten years ago we love it holds paint great and have had zero problems with it so much better than plastic or aluminum siding and about the same cost.
I didn't see the nailer and type of nails you used in the description. Very helpful. I have my trim done, studs marked, about ready to buy materials and go.
@@CountryLivingExperience I was so happy to see you using a framing gun... I have successfully used a 21 degree framer with 2 1/4 ring shanks. However I started questioning myself.
@@distanceman8147 I am happy see him using it to I’m new to hardie board couldn’t figure out what gun to use other than seeing coil gun and I knew I wouldn’t use that again so this makes my day
Great idea to use pt for trim. Nice savings. Aluminum flashing, however, should not be in contact with it with your drip caps, etc., as it will corrode rather quickly due to the extra copper in the treated wood. Great video. Thanks.
Thank you so much for sharing the details and giving us close up visuals. I'm assuming it's your wife who is holding the camera. Shout out and thank you to her for taking her time to be detailed and zooming in to show us the tiny details(for example at the point when you say " 1/8 gap from our trim and our siding, our nail is about an inch from the top" and "hanging a little below the starter strip" ) seriously, thank you. I appreciate the honesty, sincerity, and the explanation.
Your illustrations are great. Few points that you brought up that James hardy did not suggest butt joint is a problem at all. They even recommend it because the plank does not expand or contract. If you have a wood panel for the house, you can randomly nail the planks. I thank you for your video. The price of Gecko runs from 28 - 86 but the one you are using is 19 to 25 as of today per the websites.
One day we two will have a Homestead until then bless you guys and we wish you the best of luck and everything that you’re doing for taking the time to make a video
I like how he shows you how to install fiber cement siding on a perfectly brand new building when most people are doing it on a remodeled house for themselves
Before this video I don't have idea how to replace a bottom portion of my harding ,but now I do thanks if is posible to show a video how replace just the bottom part I really appreciate it. Thanks a lot for you help.
Thank you for your insight. Two Q's: 1.) How do you cover the nails on the top layer of siding? I haven't seen anyone cover that issue in any video. 2.) I couldn't quite catch how to treat the top of the block (or a window, for example). Do you put an "L" shaped flashing piece above the top trim board? Thank you! The flashing between joined pieces helped.
You're welcome. 1. you can either bring it to the underside of the soffit and put a piece of trim on top or place that trim first like on the sides and butt that last piece into it. You have to make a very precise cut to do that though. 2. Yes, just use a piece of z flashing or bend one yourself for above any opening/block out.
I see in the diagram you post not to caulk certain areas on the wall; this is to allow condensation to run out. I have to redo all my soffit and siding next year as well as replace much of the wall sheathing on the garage. I just replaced the back door to the garage and had to rebuild the entire rough opening and 90" of sheathing because of termite damage. I'll do the remaining 18' next spring along with the soffit and siding. For now I just put back the original siding.
Thank you for the great video. I have never done hardie board siding and your video was very information and kept my attention throughout as you explained every step. I have done one wall on my well house and will finish the rest in the next few days.
Another great video. I am considering hardy board for a shed on my Texas property. I am replacing the external sheeting (OSB) and may use hardy board as a Wayne’s coating for the lower portion. I don’t have a good idea on how to keep the OSB dry but maybe flashing and caulking are involved. By the way the existing siding is vinyl. Thanks and all the best from north Texas.
Can you please make a quick video how to cut the material around obstacles, I kind of wanted to see how you did that and the final results, I have a job coming next month , and I can definitely use your help, thank you
I just picked me up some lengths of this stuff for free at the local waste transfer station for FREEEEE! It's gonna be the shell of my wood shed. Finest looking wood shed on the block I bet! : D
i caulked the trim board ends first so it’s sealed as the hardy board is installed and it fills the gap nicely. i’m not a pro. it just made sense to me.
DUDE! This was an awesome video. Im building a house and the contractor wants about 5k to hang these boards. Im thinking if I just take some time off of work I can spend a week or so and do it myself. Thanks!
Great video! I may be attempting to install Hardie on a few sides of my home in the near future and this video gave me a lot of helpful information. Any chance you have a video on how to prep/ install Tyvex etc. before putting the siding up? Or is there a video you can recommend?
Thanks. Glad it was helpful. I don't have a video on installing the Tyvek. It is easy. Just staple it to the wall sheathing. Layer it starting from the bottom of the wall and working up.
Very good video. Learned few things. I replaced my wood boards with Hardie cement fiber lap siding in 2011-2012. I used screws instead of nails cause nail gun was bit expensive however love it. it is still perfectly intact as day one and i think it'll stay same.
Great video!! My wife and I just bought an old farmhouse with 7 acres and some outbuildings. There was a guy who owns a concrete business rented from the previous owners, and was removing his equipment when he approached me to ask if I was interested in something. Turns out it was a bad pallet of hardy board! The wife had specifically mentioned, not wanting to use vinyl siding when it came time to close up the house, so the timing on this was perfect. He had gotten it for a good deal, and so he gave us an even better deal so he didn’t have to move it…score!!! Anyway…what are you nailing these up with?
Decent job and install tips but needs a few tweaks. Metal flashing at butt joints is expensive and requires more prep. Metal will corrode with direct contact with a cement based product, have to paint back of boards that come in contact with the flashing to prevent that from happening. A far cheaper alternative is roofing felt, either 15 or 30# is a better way to go. But if you have tyvek wrap left over that is the absolute perfect choice, it's paper thin, breathable if water somehow manages to get in (hurricane driven rain)so it can evaporate, and it's already paid for and on site. Cut a bunch of pieces and you're good to go. Framing nailer is a bad idea, teeth on the end that hold onto wood mar and or crack the siding very easily. High wind areas required double nailing so will see nails and finish on lower edge of the boards. Don't want teeth marks on your finished siding.Plus the diameter of framing nails is way too large for this siding. Siding gun or hand nail with. 092 or close to it in diameter is highly recommended. I also highly recommend stainless ring shank in high humidity area like Florida where I live. Pricey but a guarantee that will last as long as the siding. And lastly gecko gauges are worth their weight in gold, amazing product and adjustable in 1/4" incrimates for various widths of siding. Picked up a set online for $60, wish I knew them years ago as you don't need to pay a helper to hold the other side of the board, can be done with one person and the magical tools.
Great video!! I'm getting ready to do this but had 2 questions: 1. I noticed you're not using a coil siding gun. What's your setup for gun and nails? 2. How did you handle the very top plank so the nails don't show?
Or you could cut something similar to the starter strip to hide the nails, that's what we do when we do siding ( if soffit is already installed). But usually we don't have to worry about that because soffit with J channel will be hiding it.
Potentially. You may need longer nails depending on how thick the stucco is. Also, existing stucco needs to still be water resistant and in "decent" condition.
Convenient that he ended the video right before needing to cut around the block out. Would've been nice to see it instead of just being explained. Thanks.
It didn’t go well that’s the reason obviously. I kept thinking he was going to start calling it Jimmys siding. James Hardy Siding nope never heard of iii…..Oooooooohhhhhjhj, you mean Jimmys siding, yeah we call him Jimmy, that’s what all his friends call him, whenever we need it we just call up the warehouse and say yeah two bundles of ole jimmy boys siding… warehouse? oh uh, yeah the ole warehouse, depot something… Home shop or something, oh Home Depot, yeah that’s sound right ole Jimmys shop. Lmao. same guy who lets everyone working at a restaurant he knows the owner and the owner is like who??
Hi, if you have OSB behind where you're putting up the Hardie plank, is it easy to get the siding tool out? What are the tricks to Sliding that little puppy out. Thank, DJ
Great video! I am using hardie board as a rake trim board and nails will be exposed, What is the best kind of nail you recommend and or do I need to counter sink and caulk over the nail? Thanks in advance!
Hardie board is too thin to countersink. Hardie trim would be better as you can countersink a finish nail. Caulking the nails in all situations is good practice.
what kind of foundation is that??? looks like a manufactured home on blocks. I have installed miles of this probuct and built show displays for James Hardie products. You did a great job. Now one thing I would suggest is that you intall it with a rain curtain. Also tape all of your weather barrier overlaps and seams.
Thank you. This is a common foundation in rural Texas. It is technically pier and beam but the piers are just block on grade. On the addition, there is a small poured deep pier of 24". This is a traditional stick framed house.
I need to replace 3-4 of the lowest Hardie boards on the back of my house. How do I deal with the top layer (which would have to fit under the layer above it? I mean, how would I nail it on when the layer above it is already there, covering up where I would need to nail?
I got Nichiha instead of hardy, but I was wondering if they actually shrink and expand with temperature fluctuations, so two days ago, when it was 7°F outside I measured the length of one of the planks and it measured right at 12ft. I don't believe it shrinks at all. To give you an idea of how much materials shrink, 6061-T6 Aluminum, 12 ft. long would change 5/32 of an inch between 90°F and 7°F. Polycarbonate would change over 3/8" over the same temperature range for 12ft.
Great video, lots of great info. I need to replace some lower boards on a part of my house that the upper boards were replaced. Since I will blind nail them, how would I nail the top board after I put it under the ones already there?
You're welcome. That may be a challenge. You will either have to lift up the board above it to see if you can blind nail the last one. If that does not work, you will have to face nail it and cover up those nails with sealant.
I am not 100% sure but why would you want to do that? It is much better to have sheathing for wall rigidity. I am not sure what building this is for but I highly recommend sheathing.
Greetings! 1) How did you make the cut around the block for the electric penetration? Does the board go up to the side of the block? 2) For windows, do you recommend installing the window trim first and then installing the boards up to the edge of the trim? Thanks!
Hello. 1. I cut as needed. Every cut is going to be unique for everyone. The siding board goes up to the side, yes. 2. Yes, install the window trim first and then butt the siding up to it.
You can always spot and EDUCATED individual. They are articulate, poised, fluid -- like you. GREAT video, no wasted time or information, no questions remained. THANKS!
Glad it was helpful.
Kind of irnoic. "You can always spot and EDUCATED individual." when it should say "you can always spot an EDUCATED individual."
@@jfespinoza02 kind of IRONIC, calling out a typo with a typo.
My husband replaced our old siding with hardie plank boards. Absolutely love it.
That is awesome!
Thank you for sharing. Might be a good idea to seal the ends. Cement board will suck up water. Something else to consider is nailing the siding to vertical furring strips to get air flow behind the siding to assist in drying. This would require a bug barrier.
Wife and i installed that stuff on our house about ten years ago we love it holds paint great and have had zero problems with it so much better than plastic or aluminum siding and about the same cost.
Awesome!
This video deserves more views, nciely explained in such an easy to undertand manner for even newbies like me.
Much appreciated
Thanks bud, i start a wjole house tomorrow, now im confident im doint it right👍
You're welcome
Well done, about to attempt siding my home with hardie.
Thank you. Good luck
Your doing a fantastic job !!
Thank you so much!
I didn't see the nailer and type of nails you used in the description. Very helpful. I have my trim done, studs marked, about ready to buy materials and go.
I used a 21° framing nailer with 2.25" plastic ring shank nails.
@@CountryLivingExperience I was so happy to see you using a framing gun... I have successfully used a 21 degree framer with 2 1/4 ring shanks. However I started questioning myself.
@@distanceman8147 I am happy see him using it to I’m new to hardie board couldn’t figure out what gun to use other than seeing coil gun and I knew I wouldn’t use that again so this makes my day
Great idea to use pt for trim. Nice savings. Aluminum flashing, however, should not be in contact with it with your drip caps, etc., as it will corrode rather quickly due to the extra copper in the treated wood. Great video. Thanks.
Will it corrode galvanized flashing?
@@CountryLivingExperience you need to use copper flashing for PTit comes in a roll
@@CountryLivingExperience yes
@@Astrnauted what is "PT" in your comment above?
@@MonicaSmith Pressure Treated
Thank you so much for sharing the details and giving us close up visuals. I'm assuming it's your wife who is holding the camera. Shout out and thank you to her for taking her time to be detailed and zooming in to show us the tiny details(for example at the point when you say " 1/8 gap from our trim and our siding, our nail is about an inch from the top" and "hanging a little below the starter strip" ) seriously, thank you. I appreciate the honesty, sincerity, and the explanation.
Thank you Kathy. Glad the video was helpful.
I am the one moving the camera all around. My wife said thank you anyway though.
@@CountryLivingExperience But who got the close ups? Give a shout out to your wife. Tell her you love her.
Your illustrations are great. Few points that you brought up that James hardy did not suggest butt joint is a problem at all. They even recommend it because the plank does not expand or contract. If you have a wood panel for the house, you can randomly nail the planks. I thank you for your video. The price of Gecko runs from 28 - 86 but the one you are using is 19 to 25 as of today per the websites.
Thanks
You are a very good explainer! calm and to the point - well done - God bless !
Thank you. I appreciate it.
My 2019 Hardie instructions say but the joints in moderate contact with the flashing card behind.
Great videos, very helpful!
Glad it was helpful
One day we two will have a Homestead until then bless you guys and we wish you the best of luck and everything that you’re doing for taking the time to make a video
I pray that you will find your homestead soon.
I like how he shows you how to install fiber cement siding on a perfectly brand new building when most people are doing it on a remodeled house for themselves
Did the video title say "for remodels"? Would still be the same process once you removed the old siding anyway.
Excellent video! Thank you! Most videos right now are incomplete, or a someone pointing at stuff from their phone. Great production value!
Thank you so much. Glad it was helpful.
Excellent tutorial! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Before this video I don't have idea how to replace a bottom portion of my harding ,but now I do thanks if is posible to show a video how replace just the bottom part I really appreciate it.
Thanks a lot for you help.
You're welcome
You should have shown us how you worked around that electrical block.
Very helpful video. All the details needed to install the siding.
Thanks!
Glad it was helpful.
Excellent presentation and tutorial!👍
Thank you
I was needing this info, thank you Mr. Eggold, very helpful.
You're welcome
Bruh you’re a great teacher
Thank you
Thank you for your insight. Two Q's: 1.) How do you cover the nails on the top layer of siding? I haven't seen anyone cover that issue in any video. 2.) I couldn't quite catch how to treat the top of the block (or a window, for example). Do you put an "L" shaped flashing piece above the top trim board? Thank you! The flashing between joined pieces helped.
You're welcome. 1. you can either bring it to the underside of the soffit and put a piece of trim on top or place that trim first like on the sides and butt that last piece into it. You have to make a very precise cut to do that though. 2. Yes, just use a piece of z flashing or bend one yourself for above any opening/block out.
Great info. Your explanation gave me a very clear understanding on this product. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Hey man awesome video, thank you for sharing the knowledge.
You’re welcome
Great instructional video. Thank you.
You're welcome
Very informative and you explain very well. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I see in the diagram you post not to caulk certain areas on the wall; this is to allow condensation to run out. I have to redo all my soffit and siding next year as well as replace much of the wall sheathing on the garage. I just replaced the back door to the garage and had to rebuild the entire rough opening and 90" of sheathing because of termite damage. I'll do the remaining 18' next spring along with the soffit and siding. For now I just put back the original siding.
Cool
Thank you for the great video. I have never done hardie board siding and your video was very information and kept my attention throughout as you explained every step. I have done one wall on my well house and will finish the rest in the next few days.
Awesome. Glad it was helpful!
Another great video. I am considering hardy board for a shed on my Texas property. I am replacing the external sheeting (OSB) and may use hardy board as a Wayne’s coating for the lower portion. I don’t have a good idea on how to keep the OSB dry but maybe flashing and caulking are involved. By the way the existing siding is vinyl. Thanks and all the best from north Texas.
You’re welcome.
Yes, you’ll need flashing and caulk to transition materials.
This was very helpful. Thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful!
I wish my siding contractor had watched your videos first!
Many contractors don't care.
This was very informative. Thanks.
You’re welcome
Well explained....good job. Now I'm going to do my siding..
Awesome. Thanks
@@CountryLivingExperience keep doing more videos I'll keep watching.... good job and I'll see you soon
Thank you for sharing you knowledge!! You make it very easy to understand. You got a new subscriber
You're welcome
Can you please make a quick video how to cut the material around obstacles, I kind of wanted to see how you did that and the final results, I have a job coming next month , and I can definitely use your help, thank you
They are just simple cuts. Every job will be different. Just cut as you need.
Hey there, not a pro, but I've just used an oscillating tool or a jig saw depending on the complexity of the obstacle
Thank you for such a clear explanation.
You're welcome
Nice video... thanks. Go green! :)
Thank you. Go White!
Excellent tutorial brother
Thank you
I just picked me up some lengths of this stuff for free at the local waste transfer station for FREEEEE! It's gonna be the shell of my wood shed. Finest looking wood shed on the block I bet! : D
Free is the best price!
Thank you kindly for sharing mate 🙏
You’re welcome
i caulked the trim board ends first so it’s sealed as the hardy board is installed and it fills the gap nicely. i’m not a pro. it just made sense to me.
If you gap it properly, caulking at completion is sufficient.
Very well explained. Thanks.
You're welcome
Helpful vid buddy, thanks for sharing!.
Glad to help!
Go Green! Great video.
Go White!
Thank you
I wish you would have showed how to trim around the windows, do we leave 1/8 gap around the window for caulking ?
Yes, leave a small gap for caulk.
Thank you for useful information.
You're welcome
Great tips and reminders. Solid work
Appreciate it!
Hi, thankyou for your video. So, when two ends are butted together, is the gap left as is, or do you caulk it?
No need to caulk the gap. Just put flashing behind it.
Can you use vinyl flashing instead of the aluminum flashing?
Great professional video! what nails and gun gauge?
Thanks. 21° framing nailer with 2 1/2" plastic ring shank nails.
DUDE! This was an awesome video. Im building a house and the contractor wants about 5k to hang these boards. Im thinking if I just take some time off of work I can spend a week or so and do it myself. Thanks!
Cool. Glad it was helpful.
Was a week to do yourself a good time estimate?
Great video! I may be attempting to install Hardie on a few sides of my home in the near future and this video gave me a lot of helpful information. Any chance you have a video on how to prep/ install Tyvex etc. before putting the siding up? Or is there a video you can recommend?
Thanks.
Glad it was helpful. I don't have a video on installing the Tyvek. It is easy. Just staple it to the wall sheathing. Layer it starting from the bottom of the wall and working up.
Could I use my 21* degree framing gun?
Yep
Very good video. Learned few things. I replaced my wood boards with Hardie cement fiber lap siding in 2011-2012. I used screws instead of nails cause nail gun was bit expensive however love it. it is still perfectly intact as day one and i think it'll stay same.
Awesome
I'm thinking of using screws aswell. Have you noticed any issues with having used screws when the temperature fluctuates?
@@LSDMTHSEE No. So far i did not face any issue. Everything is still intact as day one.
You can use peel and stick tape or tar paper for butt joints also
Your video was a huge help, thank you.👍🏼✌🏼🇺🇸
You’re welcome
Excellent video, quick question, is it possible to install Hardie boards will screws instead nails?
Thank you. Yes, you can use screws. Hardie has recommendations on their site about the distance from the edge for the screws.
Great video!!
My wife and I just bought an old farmhouse with 7 acres and some outbuildings. There was a guy who owns a concrete business rented from the previous owners, and was removing his equipment when he approached me to ask if I was interested in something.
Turns out it was a bad pallet of hardy board!
The wife had specifically mentioned, not wanting to use vinyl siding when it came time to close up the house, so the timing on this was perfect.
He had gotten it for a good deal, and so he gave us an even better deal so he didn’t have to move it…score!!!
Anyway…what are you nailing these up with?
Thank you.
We used a nail gun with 2 1/4" plastic ring shank nails.
Great video ! What size nails do you recommend again?! Thanx
Thanks. 2 1/4" plastic ring shank
What does the block out do? It looks like it needs flashing behind it too. Good tip on the Malco things
It is easier to cut around and flash because it is square. Yes, you will need flashing on the top of it as well.
Decent job and install tips but needs a few tweaks. Metal flashing at butt joints is expensive and requires more prep. Metal will corrode with direct contact with a cement based product, have to paint back of boards that come in contact with the flashing to prevent that from happening. A far cheaper alternative is roofing felt, either 15 or 30# is a better way to go. But if you have tyvek wrap left over that is the absolute perfect choice, it's paper thin, breathable if water somehow manages to get in (hurricane driven rain)so it can evaporate, and it's already paid for and on site. Cut a bunch of pieces and you're good to go. Framing nailer is a bad idea, teeth on the end that hold onto wood mar and or crack the siding very easily. High wind areas required double nailing so will see nails and finish on lower edge of the boards. Don't want teeth marks on your finished siding.Plus the diameter of framing nails is way too large for this siding. Siding gun or hand nail with. 092 or close to it in diameter is highly recommended. I also highly recommend stainless ring shank in high humidity area like Florida where I live. Pricey but a guarantee that will last as long as the siding. And lastly gecko gauges are worth their weight in gold, amazing product and adjustable in 1/4" incrimates for various widths of siding. Picked up a set online for $60, wish I knew them years ago as you don't need to pay a helper to hold the other side of the board, can be done with one person and the magical tools.
So, do you recommend caulking between butt joints?
@@tyyoung4104 Hardie says don't caulk them, just put flashing behind them and butt them up close.
Perfect,thank you
You’re welcome
How do you determine when to chalk the first line
Great job.
Thank you!
Great video!! I'm getting ready to do this but had 2 questions:
1. I noticed you're not using a coil siding gun. What's your setup for gun and nails?
2. How did you handle the very top plank so the nails don't show?
Thanks.
I have a framing nailer with 2.5" plastic ring shanks.
Mine show on the top. Paint to hide them.
Or you could cut something similar to the starter strip to hide the nails, that's what we do when we do siding ( if soffit is already installed). But usually we don't have to worry about that because soffit with J channel will be hiding it.
Muchas gracias sr! You are the besst
De Nada
I would like to see how to cut and go around the block-out. Thanks for the video.
For your joint flashing, could you use flashing tape?
Metal flashing is best
Great video! Thank you
Thank you!
Hello, thx for info. Question, did you leave block of wood at conduit? Block of wood, another butt joint cut out on next board?
Question: Can you install this product over old stucco?
Potentially. You may need longer nails depending on how thick the stucco is. Also, existing stucco needs to still be water resistant and in "decent" condition.
Great video! Thanks!
Question how tall was your starter plank? Does it matter?
You're welcome. The starter strip on the bottom was about 2" tall
@@CountryLivingExperience Thanks!
what type of nailer did you use? also great video!
I used a framing nailer with 2.5" plastic ring shank nails.
Convenient that he ended the video right before needing to cut around the block out. Would've been nice to see it instead of just being explained. Thanks.
Absolutely agree and no response to you comment with a follow up
Interesting how free instruction and sharing of knowledge gets criticized
@@mc1738 constructive criticism is important, if he sees the comment he’ll do better in the future
Yeah, I was hoping to see how he would do that detail.
It didn’t go well that’s the reason obviously. I kept thinking he was going to start calling it Jimmys siding. James Hardy Siding nope never heard of iii…..Oooooooohhhhhjhj, you mean Jimmys siding, yeah we call him Jimmy, that’s what all his friends call him, whenever we need it we just call up the warehouse and say yeah two bundles of ole jimmy boys siding… warehouse? oh uh, yeah the ole warehouse, depot something… Home shop or something, oh Home Depot, yeah that’s sound right ole Jimmys shop. Lmao. same guy who lets everyone working at a restaurant he knows the owner and the owner is like who??
Hi, if you have OSB behind where you're putting up the Hardie plank, is it easy to get the siding tool out? What are the tricks to Sliding that little puppy out. Thank, DJ
Very easy. I have OSB behind mine.
Great video!
I am using hardie board as a rake trim board and nails will be exposed,
What is the best kind of nail you recommend and or do I need to counter sink and caulk over the nail?
Thanks in advance!
Hardie board is too thin to countersink. Hardie trim would be better as you can countersink a finish nail. Caulking the nails in all situations is good practice.
Did you flash the boards where it meets the trim?
No. It is caulked at that junction
great Video!! Are the painters supposed to caulk the bottom of each board? I appreciate your answer.
You’re welcome. No, the bottoms of the boards should not be caulked. They need to be open so that water can escape if it gets behind them.
Thank you!!@@CountryLivingExperience
what kind of foundation is that??? looks like a manufactured home on blocks. I have installed miles of this probuct and built show displays for James Hardie products. You did a great job. Now one thing I would suggest is that you intall it with a rain curtain. Also tape all of your weather barrier overlaps and seams.
Thank you.
This is a common foundation in rural Texas. It is technically pier and beam but the piers are just block on grade. On the addition, there is a small poured deep pier of 24". This is a traditional stick framed house.
@@CountryLivingExperience thanks for the reply. Your work is very clean
Thank you so much!!!
You’re welcome
Nice vid. But Hardie does say to butt the joints, and to not leave spacing. Hardie doesnt expand
Go green, great video
Thank you. Go White!
I need to replace 3-4 of the lowest Hardie boards on the back of my house. How do I deal with the top layer (which would have to fit under the layer above it? I mean, how would I nail it on when the layer above it is already there, covering up where I would need to nail?
which finish nail gauge are you using?
Not finishing nails. 2.25" plastic ring shank framing nails.
What nail gun are you using. great video. Thanks.
Thank you. It is just a cheap Harbor Freight Banks 21° framing nailer. Works well.
@@CountryLivingExperience thanks man!
I got Nichiha instead of hardy, but I was wondering if they actually shrink and expand with temperature fluctuations, so two days ago, when it was 7°F outside I measured the length of one of the planks and it measured right at 12ft. I don't believe it shrinks at all. To give you an idea of how much materials shrink, 6061-T6 Aluminum, 12 ft. long would change 5/32 of an inch between 90°F and 7°F. Polycarbonate would change over 3/8" over the same temperature range for 12ft.
It's not the hardy that shrinks and expands its the wood around it.
good job marshal,LOL. thanks
Thanks
Boss do u use fraiming nail?? What size nail u use??
Yes. 2 1/4" plastic ring shank.
So whats the white paper behind hardie board? Can I leave plywood painted with out the white paper
That is Tyvek house wrap. It is a moisture barrier.
Great video, lots of great info. I need to replace some lower boards on a part of my house that the upper boards were replaced. Since I will blind nail them, how would I nail the top board after I put it under the ones already there?
You're welcome. That may be a challenge. You will either have to lift up the board above it to see if you can blind nail the last one. If that does not work, you will have to face nail it and cover up those nails with sealant.
What are you using for skirting do you have a video on that?
I don't have a video on that. I just used a plastic lattice.
@@CountryLivingExperience Ah, would have made a good one I'm sure! Thank you for the reply Im liking the channel
@@Reckless_In_Texas Thank you
Great video! #gogreen!
Thank you! Go White!
Can Hardie plank be installed directly to studs or is sheathing required?
I am not 100% sure but why would you want to do that? It is much better to have sheathing for wall rigidity. I am not sure what building this is for but I highly recommend sheathing.
@@CountryLivingExperience Thanks I thought about that after I askec.
Greetings!
1) How did you make the cut around the block for the electric penetration? Does the board go up to the side of the block?
2) For windows, do you recommend installing the window trim first and then installing the boards up to the edge of the trim?
Thanks!
Hello.
1. I cut as needed. Every cut is going to be unique for everyone. The siding board goes up to the side, yes.
2. Yes, install the window trim first and then butt the siding up to it.
Fine job!
Thank you
wen u install this siding thats it? or do u install something else over the siding?
This is it. Just paint after
@@CountryLivingExperience ahhh....thank u
What size boards were used here? Thanks.
8” exposure
Once it is applied and there is the overlap, what does each board measure? 6 1/2”. ?Thanks!