Siding a House By Yourself
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 12 ноя 2018
- In this video I am using LP SmartSide lap siding to side my house. I am using special siding clamps that lets me do everything solo.
Here is a link to the clamps I used! amzn.to/2DCbOoA (affiliate link)
For my 3D Printed tools and digital plans- www.etsy.com/shop/ChadDIY 
Хобби
Siding clamps- amzn.to/2DCbOoA (affiliate link)
For my 3D Printed tools and digital plans- www.etsy.com/shop/ChadDIY
My favorite tool in my shop! www.xtool.com/products/portable-diode-laserbox-d1-for-laser-engraving-laser-cutting?ref=ZD0p1c21pRes&variant=43897274630383
Reminds me of my father. He used to build 3 houses every summer from 1970 to about 2005. He did everything except the drywall and roofing as that is very labor intensive. He totally worked alone and was very fast
Wow, That is very impressive to do 3 houses a summer. He must have been a hard working to get that all done by himself!
Building the house is labor intensive lmao
@@pleasetrylater6832 More like a house every 6 weeks based on the summer lengths in Ohio. When he started in 1970 a 1000 square foot house was acceptable. When he stopped building in the early 2000's They were 1500 sq feet mostly. His niche was building starter homes for young couples that were affordable. He could sell them cheaper by installing much lower end (cheaper) kitchen cabinets and counters. These were items they could upgrade later as their income increased. Just like some car companies make corvettes for the wealthier, others make
Honda civics. My dad made lower end priced homes for people starting out. My dad built about 60 houses over that time. I realize the math does not work out from 1970 to 2005 as there were real-estate dry spells where he had to have a heating furnace service business to make ends meet.
As an amateur with woodworker, i typically feel overpowered with the entire arrangement ruclips.net/user/postUgkxrYREG3-7f1Aqk9ams3ZESRNzGnfdUtyQ . Be that as it may, this arrangements drove me through with much clarity and effortlessness woodplans. Works i now work like a genius. That is great!
Thank you! Everyone else didn't show first board placement! You also showed how to do seams. You are amazing!!
Thanks, I'm glad you found it helpful!
That's the first ive seen lp spliced that way, they make a splice to cover the seams. Ive seen concrete board done like that tho!
That's not how you do seams. Hope you watched another video
LP makes joint clips to hide your joints
Easily one of the best if not THE best diy videos ever on YT . Thank you for making it simple, no nonsense, mentioning the tools needed and helpful tips. Even ended with humor. This is exactly what I needed. Great job my man!
Thanks, I appreciate the kind words!
@@chaddiy3512 you're welcome 🙂
Thanks Chad!! This is great, I plan on buying a house and am learning to do these things by myself.
Excellent video!!! You get right to the point and show :"how to" very well and easy to understand. Thank you for the great tips! Jim
Thanks Jim for watching and commenting, I really appreciate it!
Nice work. Love the multi use tool you have... the saw horse/wheelbarrow combo kit... nice!
Ha, thanks!...got to use what you have!!
Thanks for sharing. Those clamps are a life saver.
The clamps a re for sure the way to go...even if you have help on your siding project!
You have the gift of teaching! Very well explained. Thank you brother for sharing! You have a new subscriber.
I appreciate the kind words, and thanks for subscribing!
You make this look so easy! 😲 very helpful and much appreciated!
Glad I could help!
Man I wish I had a Menards in our hood. Good call on painting the cut edges! Textbook LP installation!!👍👍
Yeah, Menards is my go to over Home Depot and Lowes. And yes, always a good idea to paint the cut edges. It slows the process down a little, but well worth it!
Menards is great
True craftsmanship standards Always prime/paint all 6 sides before reinstalling.
@@chaddiy3512 what does the paint do to the cut edges, help with moisture resistant?
Thank you, much good info, I am planning to use LP siding just like that. Excellent video editing.
Glad you enjoyed the video...the siding was pretty easy to do, this was my first time doing siding and 2 years later now it still is looking like new!
This is the best instructional video on installing siding that I have seen. Thanks.
Thanks...I appreciate the comment!
Awesome video brother thank you for the lesson and the sharing of the word 🤙🏽🌸
Very helpful video. I'm going to be redoing my 100 year old clapboard sided building with Hardie siding. This gives me some great ideas. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Wow such wonderful job easy not complicated I love thank u for such great work
Thanks for watching!
Awesome work! It looks easier than I thought.
Thanks, and yes...it is pretty easy!
Thanks Chad, I learned a lot! Much appreciated good Sir!
😊
Thanks for the comment and I'm glad you learned something!
real professional, I like the way you Mark the studs I thought I was the only one that did that, good video.
Thanks Greg, to me...marking the studs is a must so you don't have to nail blindly. Thanks for watching!
Lol the only one huh
Great video bud. Thanks for all the tips.
Glad you liked it Shannon Lane, hopefully it helps in your future!
Looks great - outstanding job.
Thank you very much!
Good job !!! The clamps make it nice !
Thanks Dean...the clamps are the way to go!
Great job!
Thanks for posting!
Glad you enjoyed it Nancy!
Nancy E. .
You did a great 👍 job. Bravo 👏
Thanks!
Thank you, this is only the second siding video I have found online that shows the use of those clamps. I bought a smaller, perfect rectangle house with all flat sides. Built in 1984, on a lake so lots of moisture. The original siding is there, in poor condition and someone slapped hideous vinyl siding over styrofoam a couple years ago. It feels and looks like an old fashioned waterproof plastic diaper and it is bug heaven underneath. Tar paper wrap. I cannot wait to carefully remove everything to inspect the walls and studs for water damage before wrapping it all up, and replacing the awful original windows that were never even flashed I think. I have a concrete foundation, thank goodness. Doing it all myself, with the help of great video instruction like this.
Hello Shari, glad my video can help. It really is a pretty easy job with the clamps. Good luck on your project!
I would advise you to rethink before installing siding yourself especially if you've never done it before. There is not one single video on youtube that shows you how to install it correctly including this guy's. Theyre all hacks. There are already numerous mistakes and this is just one wall. To do it right is more involved than most people think. And if installed incorrectly it will create mold, rot and cause damage to your framing all of which are costly to fix and will compound quickly in an are with a lot of moisture. If you still decide to do it yourself I would recommend you use the best materials available like for housewrap use Hydrogap drainable wrap and for caulking use Quad Max it stays flexible and wont crack and let water in like the cheap stuff. between the trim and the window leave about a 1/4"-3/8" gap and stuff foam backer rod 3/8" deep and fill with caulking. Dont butt the trim up to the window frame like this guy did, it leaves barely any room for caulking. This is really important step because vinyl windows expand and contract and it you have a tiny bead of cheap caulk it will crack and let water in and deteriorate everything a lot faster. VS a 3/8x3/8" bead of high quality caulk which will easily be able to expand and contract providing years of trouble free service. Also preprime and precaulk the cuts on the trim where they butt up to each other. These steps are critical in achieving a solid installation that will last many years trouble free. Flashing above horizontal protrusions like window trim and such is also crucial. If you have any questions please feel free to ask Ive worked many years for siding company in Oregon that doesnt take shortcuts like most people.
Also dont use housewrap at the joints like he did. It is not UV rated for very long and will deteriorate eventually. Instead use 5x7 metal flashing you can pick up a pack of 100 for like 25 bucks at a siding supplier. Caulking the joints is optional but not recommended. instead install with moderate contact or leave 1/16" gap
I also own a home like this. Original siding is cedar, with the tar wrap. Really would like to redo it. Love the look, but it is in bad shape.
@@senyashchukin391 I didn't read your whole post but I agree. This guy had no business posting this video. Siding is a trade that takes years to learn, it's an art, not to mention its THEE waterproofing for your house. So "No" you can't "Do It Yourself" and its not cheap. But go ahead, roll the dice, and see if you can keep your house 100% waterproof for the next 30 years. One wrong move could cost you 10,20,$40,000 down the road or more....just pay somebody...
Nice video made it look so easy and professional
Glad you liked it!
Wow fancy level action. Caught it
Gracias por este video. Estaba buscando esto. Muy bien explicado.👍
Nice video. I'm always looking for ways to work by myself. I'm about to start my second building, and I had little help with the first one.
Thanks for watching Richard, and good luck on your second building!
I've used the clamps on SmartSide siding. They do work ok, but there is a bit of variability on the thickness of the siding due to the texture. The clamps sometimes slip, which can be really inconvenient when you are working off a ladder! One thing you might consider on future projects: The window trim should be 5/4" so that the edges of the siding are not exposed. There is a 5/4 SmartSide trim product that works great. I sided a house years ago with 3/4 trim and the exposed siding ends, even when faithfully painted, do not hold up as well. Great Video! Thanks.
Hello Greg, great point on the thicker trim! When I did this project I didn't know they made the 5/4. Also the clamps can be a little tricky. I found that I couldn't clamp them down tight, or else the siding would fall through the back of them. Overall, they did work very well I thought. Thanks for the comment!
@@chaddiy3512 Yup...I've had them fall through the back too, but this is the best solo solution I've found.
Thanks! Straight forward for my review. :) Love the clamps. was not on my radar.
Thanks for the comment Barry, and glad the clamps are on your radar now...They make all the difference!
NICE WORK, SIR... AND THANKS FOR THE HOW TO DO KNOWLEDGE!💯💪💪
Glad I could help!
*This was awesome! Thanks Chad!!*
Glad you enjoyed it Zach!
Looks real nice
I've done this before on a 16x20 addition of a screened in porch converted to room. Not a bad job
Upload a video
Just in the middle of doing this exact job myself
I'm always interested in learning new things.
That is why youtube is so great!
amazing. looks great. it was so easy.
Thanks!
Thanks I got those clamps for my brother they work great
The clamps really do make it so much easier!
What's the name of the clamp?
What a great job what type of siding nailer did you use can you please let me know and the nails thank you.
Thanks! and here is the affiliate link for the nailer I used amzn.to/2H8GeiI
Also, I believe I used 2 inch nails from the same brand as the nailer.
You made that look sooo easy!!!
Thanks Chad. Appreciate you taking the time to do this video.
Thanks Jason, hopefully it can help others trying to do their own siding.
Thank you for the great video!
Thanks metersocket00 for watching!
Beautiful work
Thanks!
Absolute Master
For Monday June 3RD-2019
Siding project on a house.
The final product, turned out good.
Awesome work 🤩
Thanks!
Thank you for the great video,
Thanks Mike, Glad you liked it!
Great vid..very informative. 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
very nice job
Nice job looks good .
Thanks Don!
good use of roofing nailer....2 3/8 in nails better for siding. framing nailer with adjustment so head flushes to wood surface
I thought I was seeing things. He said "siding" nailer. But don't mistake my comment, I've done that. I just thought he actually had one. 😅😅😅
Amazing One Man Job,,Well Done....
Thanks a lot!
good clear video. I've done close to a dozen structures now with Hardie (or other) siding. (I have a ranch with lots of cabins) One comment I'd make is that using siding nails on the trim is not ideal. Using them on the trim is unsightly and has to be caulked or something to make it look ok. Try instead to find stainless brad nails, like 2" long that you can use in your brad nail gun. I have a 16 Gauge nail gun, and no problem finding them, but they do make 18 gauge too if that is all you have. I've done this for maybe 5 years or more now and the trim is ON there. You can use extra nails as there is no visible problem. I've pried them off from time to time and for sure they hold well enough to never worry about the trim just "slowly loosening and coming off". By using the brad nails, no need for filling. The hole is small enough that the paint afterwards fills the hold and it becomes "invisible". I try to always use stainless siding nails anyway, (the siding IS constructed with cement and that is quite hard on regular nails, so that rust will show. Stainless keeps that Rust from happening.)
Hey, thanks for sharing that advice. Hopefully everyone will read it that are trying to learn how to side thier house!
Great Video. Awesome Demonstration.
WHAT type of material was the trim made of.. Thanks..
Thanks Charles. The trim is L.P. smartside 1 by 4s. Easy to work with and cuts easily!
Great work thanks i seen sole comment people hating thats what people do, and i bet they dont have a single video of themselves doing it.
Thanks Ricardo! yeah, there is always a lot of hate on youtube...very true about the haters never having any videos of their own!
Really good details!!
Thanks!
thank you for the video!
My pleasure!
Where’s the Z channel flashing above the window or around the electrical box? No laser/chalk line or level on the first row?
This video is probably the best "how to siding" video Ive come across. Wish you had made a soffit and fascia video!!!
Thanks Nathan, I appreciate that!
Thank you So much for your video you did it a good job
No problem, glad you enjoyed it!
Great work, helpful vid
Glad it helped!
Where is the flashing on the bottom of your siding?
That's a good Job bro. Have a nice day...
Thanks, you too!
Excellent video.
Thank you very much!
You make it look so easy. Im a girl so even bettertobe able to learn from you. Thanks! Oh and awesome I also didnt know about the synthetic fabric dontonow where to buy can search it. Thanks again and Im now going to paint my raw edges. Great tip!
Good luck! It really isn't that hard. The synthetic fabric was just extra roof underlayment I had laying around. You could use metal flashing as well. Just anything to stop water getting in the seems if the caulk begins to fail.
@@chaddiy3512 okay! Im not familiar with metal flashing and the closest my brain will allow me to think of is metal paste for soldering. And Im just being honest and trying to make ya chuckle. So, again my male thinking part of my brain doesnt recall ever hearing of a metal flashing procedure before now. So i suppose I could look it up on you tube. Lol! Although I would love to Thank you for replying its very nice of you. Mostly because I dont ask my neighbors and try not to rely on somebody elses husband brother ect. To figure these things out. I like to learn and I like to be a perfectionist at everything I do. (Unfortunately) So, any and all you can tip me off with is greatly appreciated and I wasnt able to yet attemp my siding venture due to weather conditions here in Mt. This weekend. But, hopefully soon. Again, thank you so very very much.
Nice work Chad. A link to purchase those nice clamps would be helpful. You sure made that siding job look easy.
Thanks! Here is a link to the clamps I used! amzn.to/2DCbOoA (affiliate link)
Good video and awesome job using the flashing behind the seams where two pieces butted together.where do you get the clamps?
Thanks! If you look at the top comment it has the link to the clamps. Thanks for watching!
Forgot the flashing and its recommended to put breaks in the starter strip for drainage
Okay couple questions. How did you make sure your first row was straight and level? How did you make sure your siding lines matched up with the other walls?
Hello LivingCountry, I lined up the first row of siding with the bottom of the OSB sheathing. This was new construction on a level concrete slab. As long as I lined it up the same on each wall they all pretty much matched. There is trim on the corners so it really isn't noticeable if the siding is a 1/4 inch higher or lower on one wall compared to the other...Hope that helps!
You did nice work on that and did your best to weather seal it. You will be replacing it though. That material absorbs moisture like mdf. I have seen that stuff turn to flakes in five years just from humidity, found it while doing an estimate for painting the exterior. Fiber cement tends to last longer, but more time consuming and more difficult to cut. My preference is cedar but much more expensive. Again great job.
I've seen LP Snart Siding immersed in a bucket of water for longer than a month to no ill effect.
Brah ur such a chad chad 👍🏾
What are the spacer hanging clamps you used, and what do they set the overlap at?
Kind of important to know to figure coverage. If you overlap 1/2" or over lap 3/4" you could land 1 sheet short
But also if you do a story stick you could space the laps to land full lap on the last top lap or close enough a trim board covers the gap at the top.
Do the hanging clamps adjust?
They are called gecko clamps, they are completely adjustable to leave any size overlap you want. They really work great!
@@chaddiy3512
Yes I looked at them, but id still do a story stick so I know where my laps tops land on a wall so I don't have to cut out for a window and land on it without adjustment or trimming one of them.
Thats what they showed on this old house.
I like the trim part you put on the outlet box but look above I made a point about flashing.
My house is over 25 years old you really can tell when flashing wasnt done right or poor techniques were used when it was built. Its smart to look at things and why they failed then get at idea how to make them better with just a little extra work.
My house has the Abit siding on it.
The remedy by the manufacture was to paint it. Trust me ive seen houses by me that got plenty of paint on them and still look like crap. It was a piss poor product. Basically cardboard sheets.
Paints only as good as the substrate under it. Back when my house was built they didn't use Typar and the sheting is OSB. Ive got plenty of water damaged wood. Ive seen it on sevral houses.
I dont even like treated wood for trim work. The PVC holds up a lot better.
It just cost more. But that also depends on what profile you use 2x or 1x
Thanks that is a pretty cool tool ill have to buy a pair when I replace my lap siding.
You think somone would come out with a system for sheet goods that works just as good. Around here they started to lap the sheet goods insted of using z flashing between sheets with a trim board over them it looks a lot nicer.
I say this becuse my house is 2 story with walk out basment so ive got areas 3 and 4 sheets up 10x4 or 9x4
I would seriously think about Z flashing and flashing tape over the outlet cover trip. I know its a protected circuit but its a real pain if the GFCI trips everytime it rains. I know becuse ive got one that does this. Granted its not as fancy a box
And your vapor cover blocks water intrusion but its cheap insurance. Well worth the effort. You also should have done the window. The main reason for wood rot is poor flashing its worth the effort to add the extra protections.
It dosnt take much water to start the rotting process becuse wood behind a outside surface wont dry out as fast then if it wasn't covered up so its best to keep the water away as best as possible.
Where I live, you must strap behind the siding unless it's vinyl. Installing
LP Smart Siding without strapping voids the warranty.
Great Job!!!
Thanks Brian!
Nailed the shit outta that trim 😂
Can you use a floor or pallets with this? I'm thinking I'll use it to store moving boxes and furniture.
Good job sir. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
You only nail the top part of the siding? What keeps the bottom from lifting up like with the wind ? I'm because I want to do this to my mobile home. Thank you
Hello Sergio, you only need to nail the top. The boards are very stiff so the wind will not lift them. Good luck!
Nice work Chad and those Clamps are your helping hands. Bet the Wife was happy when it was done. Well Done.
Barry (ENG)
Thanks Barry! My wife was happy when it was done and also that she didn't have to help me for once!
Smooth
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great jobs 👍
Which type of sealant using in joint filling area?
Hello, I used Quad Max caulk. It can be painting and remains a little flexable after it dries. It worked out great for me!
Great job
Thanks!
Awesome video. Thumbs up.
Thank you very much!
@chad DIY what size LP Smartside did you use? and how many inches of exposure? I like it. Also - do you recall the color Gray? We start this weekend and I have the one man holders from Amazon, looks like they work great!!
Hi Rob, I used 7 inch LP with a little over 5 inch exposure. Sorry, I can't remember what Gray I used...My wife picked it out of course! good luck with your project!
Hey Chad what is the point of leaving the gap in between the pieces of siding and then caulking it? My guess is for expansion but I wanted to ask. Thank you and great video!
Yep, you need to leave the gap for expansion... otherwise the siding could start warping with humidity changes. Thanks for watching!
¡Great job!
Thanks Marcelo!
wonderful
Thanks!
How has it held up since you installed it, especially the bottom rows? Any cracked paint lines effect at the bottom side of the panels due to moisture absorption? 6 years ago I bought an old house with hip style roof with 2.5 ft overhangs. House had beaded cedar mill look Masonite siding that was face nailed and to many of my contractor's surprise it was still in pretty good shape, despite years of neglect. I couldn't find a matching siding so after remodeling I decided to replace it. When I took off the old siding, I was shocked to see that the only damage was on the bottom front of the first two rows and top rows were as as stiff and clean as brand new. And I really loved the cedar mill look. So now I want to install something similar and LP smart siding is the closest as far as the look goes. But I feel hesitant to use it after reading up all the negative feedback about it. Part of me says if Masonite siding could last on this house, LP siding should be just fine too. However my old siding had a smooth curved shape at the bottom, unlike the LP smart siding's rough shape, which makes me think that it may be more likely to absorb water and hence prone to a quicker failure, if I don't get a good paint coverage fast enough. I suppose those oversized overhangs on the house can only protect it so much. Oddly enough fiber cement siding is about the same price right now but my walls are anything but true or flat, so if needed, the face nailing may be out of question for fiber cement. So I'm looking for some honest feedback and recommendations from homeowner who have installed LP siding.
My LP siding has held up very well. I think any bad reviews you read about LP is from the stuff they made many years ago. The new stuff they make today seems to hold up great! Good luck with your decision!
Been there, done that a few times. Had help buy let him go, spent too much time on his cell phone, in the bath room and late to work. I bought a pair of those clamps, I call them Kenny.
Love the story! And good idea naming them Kenny!
Lol was that the name of the helper too that u let go
That's what I was wondering as well!
Looks just like my detached garage which flooded last year. How do you prevent water from coming in? Shouldn't there be some flashing before you put on the starter piece?
Hello Jack, I didn't use any flashing because I was building off a concrete slab so it doesn't matter if it got wet. If you are getting any flooding it sounds like it might be a grading problem with the ground around your garage.
Where did you find coil nails and nailer that shoot the recommended .113 nails? Im having trouble locating a coil nailer that shoots that large, and the nails to go with it. Thanks!
Hello Aj, I just used a regular siding nailer and .090 nails. Had no problems with that size nail holding well. To do the .113 nails I think you would have to use a framing nailer. Good luck on your siding!
Would it be easier to paint the planks first? That way it could be done in a controlled environment and not dependent on weather conditions outdoors?
Thank you for the video!
Yep, it would be easier! If I did it again I would just have bought the prepainted stuff and not have to paint myself at all!
Isn't it floppy when you blind nail it as opposed to face nailing it
1 1/8" up from the bottom?
Hello, no it isn't floppy at all. It is very solid even nailing high up
I didn't have a nail gun to install my cement siding, so I resorted to hand nailing. This didn't work very well. I decided about half way thru the job to predrill nail hole. The bits wore out endlessly because of the abrasiveness of the siding. So whilst drilling, I accidently snapped off yet another drill bit tip. Lo and behold, It worked better broken. So then I went and bot a 24 pack of 1/8 in bits and nipped the tips off all of them. It worked so well that I had no problems predrilling nail holes. Who'd have thot a broken drill bit works better than a sharp one for predrilling holes in concrete siding. Likewise I've found it easier to score and snap the siding instead of fighting with a skill saw.
Thanks for the comment and the tips Terry. All the issues you ran into are the reason I used LP Smartside instead of cement board. The LP cuts just like wood. They both look great once installed though!
Nice job. A couple questions. Why didn't you paint you cut ends the same color as the siding? I know even with hardieplank you shouldn't caulk the butt joints as it will still expand and contract. All you should need is the flashing strip. Is there something different about this siding? I assume there will be some expansion and contraction and those caulked butt joints will look bad.
Hi Greg, The siding is just a primed color. If you look at the end of the video you will see everything painted gray. As long as a flexable caulk is used it is fine to do it the way I did. After everything is painted the seams blend in a lot better compared to using the little metal flashing pieces on the butt joints.
How do you use the clamps to measure cutouts
Awesome
Thanks!
Great video. I am going to be replacing cedar bevel siding. How should I handle the butt joints?
Hello, I'm not sure how you do butt joints with cedar. I don't think you caulk them...maybe just a flashing material behind each joint.