@@MaciusSzwed Added! Parts List: Mahle Motorsports Forged PowerPak Plus 2618 Alloy Extreme Duty Pistons 930258140 Manley Manley Forged H-Beam Rods with ARP 2000 Bolts 14042R-8 Clevite Main Bearings, 0.001" Extra Clearance MS-2292HX Clevite Rod Bearings, 0.001" Extra Clearance CB-1442HXN Tommy's Auto Machine Block Bore and Hone, Balance Rotating Assembly Ford Performance Parts Block Hardware Kit M-6026-A50A Brian Tooley Racing Tapered Piston Ring Compressor BTRRC3640 Boundary Racing Pumps Black Series Billet 2020 GT500 Oil Pump Gears CM-OPG-GT500-VM Boundary Racing Pumps Billet Lower Timing Sprocket CM-SP-11 Comp Cams Valve Spring Kit 0.550" Max Lift 26113CY-KIT Comp Cams Hi-Tech Timing Chain Set 3041 Ford Performance Parts 2020 GT500 Oil Pan, Pump, and Pickup Kit M-6675-M52S Ford Performance Parts BOSS 302R Head Changing Kit M-6067-M50BR11 Ford Performance Parts Oil Pump Installation Kit M-6600-A50PKIT Ford Performance Parts Boss 302 Timing Chain Tensioners M-6266-M50B Permatex Right Stuff Sealant 25223 ARP 12mm Head Studs 256-4702 Euroexport Valve Spring Installation Tool SC-60014
@TheHookahTimes It's stock. No issues, no noise, no smoke. I expect the timing chain is stretched juat due to the miles, but there are no indications of any wear. I would drive it cross-country as it stands now without fear of a problem.
My old man just to build the early model Ford motors, but with the chrome moly rings he would run the motor through 2 regular heat cycles with compression check each time then run it out to the interstate and wrap half the radiator with a feed sack. He ran the motor till it was about 220 and then would take the feed sack from the radiator to let it cool down a bit. I thought he was crazy till the last compression check and him showing me what it came up to be.
You certainly want to go drive the car moderately hard on the first engine start up to seat the rings. Drive the car until it's warm, then do a couple full throttle pulls in 3rd to seat the rings. Don't need to go to red line, just need to push the rings against the walls before they glaze over.
Mustang geek - just wondering have you ever seen or heard of the problem with the 2 back cylinders on a 5.0 coyote getting to hot and and losing compression from the intake valves. If so please explain in detail what to do to eliminate this . Thank you , love your detail videos.
I haven't heard of any inherent design flaw with the cooling system on Coyote engines. Some earlier 4V modular engines had an issue where cylinder #8's exhaust valve guides would get overheated and weaken. This was addressed in later (2005+) cylinder heads. This may provide some insight on the coyote cooling system flow: ruclips.net/video/0-yJZaGoJg0/видео.htmlsi=w5aYE2nZFccvJv66
For the main caps, did you tighten them down first to seat them or did you wack them with a mallet? I can’t seem to get them aligned by pressing down on them
Good question. I don’t recall whacking them with any hammer. I think they just fit snuggly. You can tighten them down lightly by hand or using the bolts. If you think there’s an issue, you should probably investigate and pay attention first before you met something up!
Hiya! I have a 2011 F-150 XLT 4WD with the Coyote 5.0, and she has just about 200,000 miles on her. The front seal is leaking, or maybe the timing chain covers, unsure. So instead of just fixing the leaks, I wanted to do my first ever DIY engine rebuild. I wish to replace ALL components up front (i.e. Alternator, Water Pump, etc.), also internally anything that will be bullet proof, something better than what she has, but not some hot rod stuff, just high quality parts, because I wish for her to last me another 200,000. Will this video help on the 2011? Or do I need to be careful in certain areas? I am seeking (tools needed, recommended parts "I see you have listed, but unsure if they work with my engine", and any recommended manuals that will be studied for weeks before I open the hood! Any help would be appreciated. Thanks so much from Western North Carolina
I did have another question for you, if you don't mind sir. Can I place Gen 3 parts in a Gen 1? Reason why I ask, it seems that Gen 3 has better performance, according to data. Gas mileage is also a concern. Higher the better. If Gen 3 parts don't work on my block, then would a Gen 3 fit in my engine bay? Gggrrr....two more.....due to fact I am a first timer at 60 yrs young, what would you recommend for directions? I am actually going to install an overhead TV in my garage, just so I can watch your video while I break my back on the engine! Seriously though, are there any software out there that I might need to buy? I am looking for definite step by step, illustrations, part references, etc. Last one, which parts will I need to take to machine shop? Will most machine shops install valves, camshaft, etc. for you, while I focus on other tasks, which are EASIER?? Just wish to do something challenging before I get planted 6 feet down. Very sorry to bother on this. Thank you again sir.@@Mustang-Geek
@@colarguns I've never rebuilt a Gen 3 Coyote, so I don't want to steer you wrong. I don't want to speculate. A Gen 3 engine is the same size as a Gen 1, but the biggest difference is the addition of direct fuel injection. That requires a complex PCM to control. I'd stick with the Gen 1.
It's usually better to put the heads on first then install the studs, especially on aluminum heads. The threads can dig into head bolt holes and allow bits of aluminum into the engine.
Hey bro im buying parts now I already ordered the block the only one that you can get nowadays if it's been three new from Ford performance question for you number one should I use the original GT crankshaft or should I possibly get a GT350 crankshaft? And I have to use gen 1 pistons since it's going into a gen 1 correct? I was wondering why you chose to go with the Comp Cam valve springs? Im looking for a set of gen 2 heads? Or do you believe if I replace my springs with either the GT350 ones with a comp cams and have the heads poured it you think they'd be just as good or will I have just as much tied up and doing that instead of just buying a Gen 2 set of heads? Sorry for all the questions bro it's a lot of money doing this build I REALLY want to get it right!! Thank you for all your help!! Lastly would you do anything different on your build?
1) The factory GT crankshaft is more than adequate for just about anything. The GT350 crankshaft is fundamentally different (flat plane). Do not use it. 2) Not sure on pistons. I'd contact Mahle and ask. 3) I chose the Comp valve springs for higher RPM stability with boost. 4) For heads, I'd ask Modular Head shop for a recommendation. 5) For my power levels, I wouldn't change a thing with the build.
I can do this…I have done a ton of head gaskets on Toyota V8’s. Have all the tools. Just never done a bottom end build before…but I understand the process. I can’t wait to eventually get started building my Gen 2 coyote. But, first I need to find a car to drop it in….
Great question! I wouldn't do any thing differently on the same budget, however, if I was going after more power, a set of ported heads would've been a good idea. Please check out my other videos too!
@@Mustang-Geek Thank you for your response!! I have a 2011 that lost compression on the driver side head not totally gone but very very low. So I’m going to take the engine out to rebuild it. I want to build it for the long haul, I plan on giving it to My Son one day. Do you remember about how much this costed you? But I love the content and definitely will be here to support you👍💯
Well, the plastigauge isn't the best method, but since I was running the GT500 oil pump and 5w50 oil, having looser clearance is good for a supercharged engine.
@@Mustang-Geek logic does not factor into this requirement only rpm , lobe profile , valve train weights . Lobe profile being the dominant factor. If back pressure changes the spring requirement , the wrong spring is being used. You couldn’t handle a 100 rpm over rev on a shift. Maybe that’s logic but cam profile and projected max rpm are the best tools to control valve bounce.
I have a 2013 F-150 Gen 1 Coyote 5.0L. I'm having a hard time trying to find the TTY Phaser to Camshaft bolts. What set did y'all use??? When I look them up, all I find are the Phaser assembly bolts (the 6 bolts around the circumference of the Phaser and not the 3 inner bolts). A full set would be 12 bolts, 3 per Phaser.
@@Mustang-Geek I was able to locate a part number thru Comp (ford replacement part BR3Z-6279-A). It was in a PDF file. Take note of the part #. Seems you can't buy a full set of 12. They have to to be bought individually. Got a set coming. If I don't do a video, you should cover these bolts. You have a better Audience. My Initial problem was a slight misfire on Cylinder 5. 2013 F-150 Coyote Gen 1 5.0L. At first I thought of valve, Then I learned about the roller issues on the camshaft rocker arms. I found 1. It's the first time with a Coyote motor. It's been a bit of a Pain in the ass. Really just ordering the bolts. It Started with the headbolts. (Finding the correct ones). I have never had this issue before. Only on this motor. Buying Pacific bolts is a pain in he ass. I'll see if everything works well once I get the bolts. I Have a channel here on youtube. I Should cover these bolts. Thankyou for your time Doc Thompson
I know it’s been a while since this video was made but is there any good videos on the proper way to pull a coyote from the engine bay like the beginning of the video
Great question. An S197 is not that hard. Use engine lift plates and a load leveler. You need to be able to adjust the angle of the engine as you pull it. I did it myself without any help.
@@Mustang-Geek I have a 2011 GT and I have borrowed a leveler to try to get it out myself, but I’ve been a little worried about taking apart more than necessary to pull the engine and leave the transmission
@@DreFromThe6ix I can't remember if I removed the transmission first. Remove the radiator and disconnect the AC compressor from the engine and lay it aside. You won't need to disturb the lines. Just remove the stretchy belt and the compressor.
@@Mustang-Geek So far ground straps have been the only item people don’t think to disconnect. I think I found a guide online but I may have to go with the trial and error method lol
Question, at 9:40 it says "Oil Pump Bolt Torque Stage 2" 3 different times with 3 different torque specs. Is it just saying to tighten everything to 89 lb-in, and then 177 lb-in, and then 18 lb-ft? So the plate is tightened as evenly as possible?
It's kinda complicated. That's why I say use a manual :) But, here's a screen shot with the specs and diagram: ruclips.net/channel/UCeJaO0ySaJ07Igg-qgMWvPQcommunity?lb=Ugkx28YSKYUfFROEl1J2pX9phObwkP01mu7S
Mustang Geek is there any companies that sell these Gen 1 with all this upgrades already ? Also about how mush you think it would cost with parts and labor?
Good question! Yes, when I had the machine shop bore the block, I also had them balance the rotating assembly because I was using different connecting rods as well as pistons.
Best installation video on RUclips on a coyote on the internet. I'm new to this and would like to purchase every part used in this video . How can I get a list . I would like to have all the parts before pulling out my engine. Keep up the good work great video's
So, do you use the old torque to yield crankshaft bolts for the plastigauge or do you have to buy an extra set just to do the plastigauge on crankshaft bearings?
How much of this carries over to the Gen 2 coyote? I had a couple piston rings fail and figured I’d just build it while I was in there because it is a boosted motor. I love how detailed this was, I’m hoping there’s a lot of crossover because I’d love to use this as a reference as I’m building it.
if you use comp cam valve springs you should upgrade the cam cap bolts. the stock ones are not made for the increased pressure and are known to break and cost you a engine
Yes and no. They look shorter because they arrive in a "collapsed" state to ease installaton. You have to Push down on them (like the top of a ball-point pen) to get the tensioner to extend after you're done installing them!
First time viewer, not a car guy by ANY definition of the word, definitely not mechanically inclined either, and its hard to get things that aren't opinions, but my buddy told me its not possible to go above 600 on a "stock ford block", in YOUR experience, what have you found? I see you mention replacing the pistons in the beginning due to the factory ones not being capable of handling the forces involved, was anything else replaced what did you change to get it beyond the factory whp? I kind of got lost in the sauce watching all these things I didn't understand and might of missed that information in the beginning or perhaps from another video. I'm starting from zero car knowledge aside from holding a flashlight or a screw driver here and there so I'm not sure if any of that question even made sense LOL.
Your buddy is probably thinking of an old-school pushrod 302/5.0 engine. The "5.0 HO" engine blocks were notorious for splitting at over 550 lb-ft of torque. The Coyote engines, however, are a LOT more durable and handle A LOT more torque. Most of the engine components will fail long before the Coyote block. It's VERY stout and durable. The newest generation (Gen 4) Coyote engines are making well over 800 wheel horsepower on all factory components. ALL FACTORY RODS, PISTONS, and CRANK!
It's definitely possible to go over 600hp even on the older foxbody style 5.0 factory for engines. It's not ideal but it's commonly done.. I have a 91 mustang GT with the old pushrod 5.0 and it's got roughly 400hp. The biggest thing is engine harmonics (vibration) that's going to break the block. That and pre-detonation.
I’m curious, I have a truck from 2011 that was handed down to me from my dad, real reliably F150 I wanted to get a whipple and a forged bottom end and aftermarket cams, ive even a small engine builder mechanic for a couple years working on ATVs and stuff soon to be adding performance parts to mine and I’d like to step foot in the car world. Could you lend a hand brother ?
I'd certainly get forged rods and pistons. I'd skip the cams because unless you're working with a VERY experienced tuner, tuning for cams takes a lot of expertise that most tuners don't have. Rebuilding a coyote engine isn't hard if you pay attention and take your time!
@@Mustang-Geek ok thank you geek! I quite enjoy rebuilding engines funny enough. Now I’d like to reach about 700 on E85 or 600 on 93 somewhere around there or higher what type of trans and differential would you swap too compared to stock
@@Mustang-Geek I’m also curious the stock engine has about 103K miles on it currently, now obviously I’d be replacing main bearings timing chains all that good stuff, would I replace anything to freshen it up? Say stock cams? Or the cylinder bore I’m most curious about
@@Mustang-Geek I don’t know anyone but I will buy the book to rebuild it and go step by step since there’s a lot of videos and 1 book for coyote rebuilds step by step
@@Mustang-Geek thanks to you guys I’m sure I can do it but it will take me like 5 months since I don’t know nothing and don’t want to damage a expensive engine
The best thing is to check with your piston manufacturer (or whoever supplies the rings) for guidance. They will have the BEST answer for your application.
Pretty good video. Having built a few, not much I would change about what was said here, other than some of the parts choices. Not that any were wrong or bad, but just personal preference things.
@@valdo_s1975 If these turbos are going to "bleed off" oil supply, that would make sense to me. Also maybe run the "extra" clearance main and rod bearings and 5W40 Miller's Nanodrive oil.
Great video and info!! Sir where could I find a shop manual for my 2011 GT? I’m getting ready to pull mine out and do the exact same thing. Again, thank you great video and definitely a new subscriber.!!👍💯
Shop manuals are kinda hard to find, as they're expensive. I have found a typical Hanes manual to cover 95% of what I need to know: haynes.com/en-us/ford/mustang/2005-2014
Estimating horsepower (or more accurately, torque) capacity for an engine is difficult, but at this point the Coyote block is the weak link. Reliably, 800 horsepower is a fair number.
@@Mustang-Geek Thank you for the reply, and what you said makes sense regarding torque being the better measurement. So given that the block the weak link, would using a gen 2 or gen 3 block be better for a build due to strength in the mains/structure, or is it more the problem of needing sleeves to reinforce the cylinders no matter which block is used?
Definitely a great video! I'm in the process of an almost identical build. Curious, where did you get the guidance to go with 0.001 more clearance on the main bearings?
I don't recall exactly, but it's pretty common to set up the bearings a little on the loose side to provide a bit of extra cushion between the bearing surfaces on supercharged applications. Running a heavier weight oil and a high volume oil pump helps as well.
We thought main studs would be nice, but weren't necessary at this power level. Gapless rings sound like a great idea in theory, but I've noticed very few engine builders use them.
i think people use gapless rings for the wrong reason. most people expect a big power increase but that's not gonna happen and that's not what i like them for. i like to use them on a boosted setup so i can have a big gap on the rings without any extra blow by
Richard Holdener, Dyno Guru, advises .007 inches per inch of bore, for the top ring on boosted engine. That comes out to .026 inches of gap. Richard has learned, that extra ring gap stops piston failure due to ring gap diminishing, due to extreme heat of massive boost. As the rings get hot, with small end gaps, the ring eventually expands and locks in the bore. The top of the piston is ripped off and all hell breaks lose !!
Mahle recommends between 0.006 and 0.007 per inch of bore, depending upon use. I went with 0.006” which for a 3.640” bore is 0.022”. www.us.mahle.com/media/usa/motorsports/2020-ring-flyer.pdf
Hard to believe you did not change the valves. That is the biggest weak link in the early coyotes. As you add any boost, they will tulip and you’ll be in there, redoing them if the engine survives.
I'm going to ask a lot of questions. LOL Sorry. When you were measuring your Main Bearing Clearance target, do you bolt the bearing caps down or just sit them over?
I have a 2011 F-150 with the Coyote 5.0L that the Ford dealer says only has 10 psi oil pressure at hot idle. Can hear a slight "tick" that gets louder when the engine is slowing down (after you give it a shot of gas). Haven't worked inside an engine since 1982, do you think I can just change the oil pump and bearings and leave the top alone? Only has 75,000 miles on it. Probably going to sell it, but don't want to sell somebody a truck that is about to blow up.
@@Mustang-Geek Maybe...what really concerns me is the 10 psi. I originally took it in because it had VCT codes. Dealer says pressure is too low to operate system and recommended a replacement engine. I put 5W-40 in as a patch and the codes haven't come back (yet, only a couple hundred miles), but I still have the tick.
I didn't record the retail prices, but here's the parts list: Mahle Motorsports Forged PowerPak Plus 2618 Alloy Extreme Duty Pistons 930258140 Manley Manley Forged H-Beam Rods with ARP 2000 Bolts 14042R-8 Clevite Main Bearings, 0.001" Extra Clearance MS-2292HX Clevite Rod Bearings, 0.001" Extra Clearance CB-1442HXN Ford Performance Parts Block Hardware Kit M-6026-A50A Boundary Racing Pumps Black Series Billet 2020 GT500 Oil Pump Gears CM-OPG-GT500-VM Boundary Racing Pumps Billet Lower Timing Sprocket CM-SP-11 Comp Cams Valve Spring Kit 0.550" Max Lift 26113CY-KIT Comp Cams Hi-Tech Timing Chain Set 3041 Ford Performance Parts 2020 GT500 Oil Pan, Pump, and Pickup Kit M-6675-M52S Ford Performance Parts BOSS 302R Head Changing Kit M-6067-M50BR11 Ford Performance Parts Oil Pump Installation Kit M-6600-A50PKIT Ford Performance Parts Boss 302 Timing Chain Tensioners M-6266-M50B ARP 12mm Head Studs 256-4702
For anyone looking to do this on a Gen 2, Ford Performance Parts "2015-2017 5.0L COYOTE HEAD CHANGING KIT - 11MM HEAD BOLTS" M-6067-M50 is what is needed.
I understand filing the rings to a certain gap, but not sure what it was you were doing after that. You had the rings on the piston and then test fit it, but what were you doing with that little tool? What is that? I've never rebuilt an engine but would love to do one over time just to do it. Also, I'm assuming you have the block bored over to the 3.640 before starting? What all needs to be done to prep a block?
I used a deberring stone to deburr the rings. Or maybe you were referring to the pick I used to orient the piston rings around the piston properly? Not sure on that. Let me know the time stamp on the video you're asking about.
BEWARE! I used 256-4702, but my engine used 12mm studs. Some engines have 11mm threads, so you have to determine which threads your engine has BEFORE you order studs.
I have the Boss tensioner kit you mentioned and noticed the secondary tensioner is shorter than the original one. The origional one protrudes through the bottom of the cam cap casting (Boss one dosen't) and the guide attaches with a metal clip that makes it snug. It appeares that you just slide the guide onto the casting . The guide alone seems rather loose. I want to be sure this is right.
I figured this out after starting my engine and it making a lot of racket: After installing it, DEPRESS THE SECONDARY TENSIONER TO RELEASE THE SPRING!!! It should pop up and tension the chain properly. Try that out and see if that addresses your question!
As many times as I see it I always cringe when guys lap valves it does nothing by itself in fact you may make your valves leak worse by doing that lapping the valves is a procedure that machine shops use to see where the valve seals at after they have done a valve job yes it makes everything look shiny and new to the naked eye but it truly does nothing alone
Actually, their tolerances are well within an acceptable range. Even after over 1000 torques, they still hold calibration. The harbor freight wrenches are the best bang for the buck. Its all personal preference. Better torque wrenches have more convincing setting engagements, and more visibility for setting increments.
About as reliable as my used set of harbor freight jacks I got off Craigslist for $7.31 and a 5 pack of beer. It's fine. ~ this message was sent from an Apple phone located in hell.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Single-handily the best assembly video I have came across. Thank you.
Thanks! "Be sure to like and subscribe," :)
@@Mustang-Geek Can you tell me please, what are the torque values for the camshaft cap bolts, and should I use a little bit of blue lock tite?
@@shadjohnsen8143 Use new bolts, tighten to 133 in lbs (11 lb-ft) plus 90 degrees. No loctite.
Yes! The only thing missing is a complete parts and price list in the description!!
@@MaciusSzwed Added!
Parts List:
Mahle Motorsports Forged PowerPak Plus 2618 Alloy Extreme Duty Pistons 930258140
Manley Manley Forged H-Beam Rods with ARP 2000 Bolts 14042R-8
Clevite Main Bearings, 0.001" Extra Clearance MS-2292HX
Clevite Rod Bearings, 0.001" Extra Clearance CB-1442HXN
Tommy's Auto Machine Block Bore and Hone, Balance Rotating Assembly
Ford Performance Parts Block Hardware Kit M-6026-A50A
Brian Tooley Racing Tapered Piston Ring Compressor BTRRC3640
Boundary Racing Pumps Black Series Billet 2020 GT500 Oil Pump Gears CM-OPG-GT500-VM
Boundary Racing Pumps Billet Lower Timing Sprocket CM-SP-11
Comp Cams Valve Spring Kit 0.550" Max Lift 26113CY-KIT
Comp Cams Hi-Tech Timing Chain Set 3041
Ford Performance Parts 2020 GT500 Oil Pan, Pump, and Pickup Kit M-6675-M52S
Ford Performance Parts BOSS 302R Head Changing Kit M-6067-M50BR11
Ford Performance Parts Oil Pump Installation Kit M-6600-A50PKIT
Ford Performance Parts Boss 302 Timing Chain Tensioners M-6266-M50B
Permatex Right Stuff Sealant 25223
ARP 12mm Head Studs 256-4702
Euroexport Valve Spring Installation Tool SC-60014
Awesome build guide. I have a 2015 Coyote with 292k miles. The time is coming for teardown.
Thanks! Please like and subscribe :)
@@Mustang-Geek Done!
300k miles??? My God dude. That's awesome. Is the car modified? Manual or auto?
@TheHookahTimes It's stock. No issues, no noise, no smoke. I expect the timing chain is stretched juat due to the miles, but there are no indications of any wear. I would drive it cross-country as it stands now without fear of a problem.
It is an F150, not the mustang. Probably not driven near as hard.
This is awesome! i just picked up a 2014 GT with 170k miles. Runs fine but actually looking forward to eventually rebuilding it.
Check out my the parts list in the description! Also, please like and subscribe!
If I get one and I rebuild it it's gonna be closer to factory.
Wow, this has been the best build video hands down.
Thanks! Please like, subscribe, and check out my other videos!
Just incredible! I will be using this. Thanks so much!
Thank you for putting this together. 3 years later your work is not in vain
Glad it helps! Please like, subscribe, and share this video!
My old man just to build the early model Ford motors, but with the chrome moly rings he would run the motor through 2 regular heat cycles with compression check each time then run it out to the interstate and wrap half the radiator with a feed sack. He ran the motor till it was about 220 and then would take the feed sack from the radiator to let it cool down a bit. I thought he was crazy till the last compression check and him showing me what it came up to be.
You certainly want to go drive the car moderately hard on the first engine start up to seat the rings. Drive the car until it's warm, then do a couple full throttle pulls in 3rd to seat the rings. Don't need to go to red line, just need to push the rings against the walls before they glaze over.
Beautifully constructed video, I could watch this all day lol
Thanks! Please like and subscribe, and check out my other videos! The Vortech Heritage S550 Mustang is a good one!
This is the best step by step engine build video I've ever seen
Thanks! Please share the link, like, and subscribe!
Thank you for this. Building my first Coyote engine and this is going to make it a breeze.
Glad to help! If you have any tips you find, be sure to add them to the comments!
@@Mustang-Geek Is this for Gen 1 or 2?
@@shadjohnsen8143 This is a Gen 1 engine.
Mustang geek - just wondering have you ever seen or heard of the problem with the 2 back cylinders on a 5.0 coyote getting to hot and and losing compression from the intake valves. If so please explain in detail what to do to eliminate this . Thank you , love your detail videos.
I haven't heard of any inherent design flaw with the cooling system on Coyote engines. Some earlier 4V modular engines had an issue where cylinder #8's exhaust valve guides would get overheated and weaken. This was addressed in later (2005+) cylinder heads. This may provide some insight on the coyote cooling system flow: ruclips.net/video/0-yJZaGoJg0/видео.htmlsi=w5aYE2nZFccvJv66
Thanks mustang geek, for answering my question on the 2 back cylinders on the coyote motor. Have a good day.
For the main caps, did you tighten them down first to seat them or did you wack them with a mallet? I can’t seem to get them aligned by pressing down on them
Good question. I don’t recall whacking them with any hammer. I think they just fit snuggly. You can tighten them down lightly by hand or using the bolts. If you think there’s an issue, you should probably investigate and pay attention first before you met something up!
@@Mustang-Geek I figured it out, I tightened them down hand tight evenly on both sides and it was slowly seating itself in
@@JosephSmith-y3d Great! Please check out my other videos!
Hiya! I have a 2011 F-150 XLT 4WD with the Coyote 5.0, and she has just about 200,000 miles on her. The front seal is leaking, or maybe the timing chain covers, unsure. So instead of just fixing the leaks, I wanted to do my first ever DIY engine rebuild. I wish to replace ALL components up front (i.e. Alternator, Water Pump, etc.), also internally anything that will be bullet proof, something better than what she has, but not some hot rod stuff, just high quality parts, because I wish for her to last me another 200,000. Will this video help on the 2011? Or do I need to be careful in certain areas? I am seeking (tools needed, recommended parts "I see you have listed, but unsure if they work with my engine", and any recommended manuals that will be studied for weeks before I open the hood! Any help would be appreciated. Thanks so much from Western North Carolina
If it's a Gen 1 coyote, all of this applies.
Thanks so much! Have no idea why RUclips doesn't let me know I have a message! I checked settings, and I should. sorry for delay! @@Mustang-Geek
I did have another question for you, if you don't mind sir. Can I place Gen 3 parts in a Gen 1? Reason why I ask, it seems that Gen 3 has better performance, according to data. Gas mileage is also a concern. Higher the better. If Gen 3 parts don't work on my block, then would a Gen 3 fit in my engine bay? Gggrrr....two more.....due to fact I am a first timer at 60 yrs young, what would you recommend for directions? I am actually going to install an overhead TV in my garage, just so I can watch your video while I break my back on the engine! Seriously though, are there any software out there that I might need to buy? I am looking for definite step by step, illustrations, part references, etc. Last one, which parts will I need to take to machine shop? Will most machine shops install valves, camshaft, etc. for you, while I focus on other tasks, which are EASIER?? Just wish to do something challenging before I get planted 6 feet down. Very sorry to bother on this. Thank you again sir.@@Mustang-Geek
@@colarguns I've never rebuilt a Gen 3 Coyote, so I don't want to steer you wrong. I don't want to speculate. A Gen 3 engine is the same size as a Gen 1, but the biggest difference is the addition of direct fuel injection. That requires a complex PCM to control. I'd stick with the Gen 1.
Found a coyote block that spun 2 bearings and am planning to machine it back.
Great! Keep us posted on your progress, and in the mean time: please like and subscribe!
It's usually better to put the heads on first then install the studs, especially on aluminum heads. The threads can dig into head bolt holes and allow bits of aluminum into the engine.
Solid advice! Thanks for sharing!
Hey bro im buying parts now I already ordered the block the only one that you can get nowadays if it's been three new from Ford performance question for you number one should I use the original GT crankshaft or should I possibly get a GT350 crankshaft? And I have to use gen 1 pistons since it's going into a gen 1 correct?
I was wondering why you chose to go with the Comp Cam valve springs?
Im looking for a set of gen 2 heads? Or do you believe if I replace my springs with either the GT350 ones with a comp cams and have the heads poured it you think they'd be just as good or will I have just as much tied up and doing that instead of just buying a Gen 2 set of heads?
Sorry for all the questions bro it's a lot of money doing this build I REALLY want to get it right!! Thank you for all your help!!
Lastly would you do anything different on your build?
1) The factory GT crankshaft is more than adequate for just about anything. The GT350 crankshaft is fundamentally different (flat plane). Do not use it. 2) Not sure on pistons. I'd contact Mahle and ask. 3) I chose the Comp valve springs for higher RPM stability with boost. 4) For heads, I'd ask Modular Head shop for a recommendation. 5) For my power levels, I wouldn't change a thing with the build.
@Mustang-Geek Thank you for your response!! I will defiantly reach out to them!!
@@Theferg1 Excellent. Glad to help!
I can do this…I have done a ton of head gaskets on Toyota V8’s. Have all the tools. Just never done a bottom end build before…but I understand the process. I can’t wait to eventually get started building my Gen 2 coyote. But, first I need to find a car to drop it in….
You bet you can!
Had a question about head stud size on gen 3? 11mm or 12mm?
Good question. I don't know, actually. I'd try googling it. I suspect they are 12mm, but that's just an educated guess.
Great video. Would you change anything different if you we're building that now?
Great question! I wouldn't do any thing differently on the same budget, however, if I was going after more power, a set of ported heads would've been a good idea. Please check out my other videos too!
@@Mustang-Geek Thank you for your response!! I have a 2011 that lost compression on the driver side head not totally gone but very very low. So I’m going to take the engine out to rebuild it. I want to build it for the long haul, I plan on giving it to My Son one day. Do you remember about how much this costed you? But I love the content and definitely will be here to support you👍💯
Will these torque specs be the same for a Gen 2?
Just checked. The procedure is different. Get a repair manual for your car for the procedure and specs.
Would you recommend the h series clevite bearings for a stockish rebuild?
Sure! Just measure the clearance and make sure it’s within spec.
@ one more question, would you happen to the max bore you can machine a gen 1 block too? Can’t seem to find any info anywhere
@ that’s a really good question. I think the largest factory board that I have seen is 93 mm. I think 94 mm would probably be a maximum (3.700”)
i see the plastiguage read .003 is that okay even though your target is .002-.0025
Well, the plastigauge isn't the best method, but since I was running the GT500 oil pump and 5w50 oil, having looser clearance is good for a supercharged engine.
Boost pressure does not impact valve spring pressure requirements
Interesting. Why not? Logic would tell me it does.
@@Mustang-Geek logic does not factor into this requirement only rpm , lobe profile , valve train weights . Lobe profile being the dominant factor. If back pressure changes the spring requirement , the wrong spring is being used. You couldn’t handle a 100 rpm over rev on a shift. Maybe that’s logic but cam profile and projected max rpm are the best tools to control valve bounce.
@@ecc5119 Huh. Interesting!
I have a 2013 F-150 Gen 1 Coyote 5.0L. I'm having a hard time trying to find the TTY Phaser to Camshaft bolts. What set did y'all use??? When I look them up, all I find are the Phaser assembly bolts (the 6 bolts around the circumference of the Phaser and not the 3 inner bolts). A full set would be 12 bolts, 3 per Phaser.
Good question. I think ARP sells some, but I've heard you can use them up to three times.
@@Mustang-Geek I was able to locate a part number thru Comp (ford replacement part BR3Z-6279-A). It was in a PDF file. Take note of the part #. Seems you can't buy a full set of 12. They have to to be bought individually. Got a set coming.
If I don't do a video, you should cover these bolts. You have a better Audience.
My Initial problem was a slight misfire on Cylinder 5.
2013 F-150 Coyote Gen 1 5.0L.
At first I thought of valve, Then I learned about the roller issues on the camshaft rocker arms. I found 1.
It's the first time with a Coyote motor. It's been a bit of a Pain in the ass. Really just ordering the bolts. It Started with the headbolts. (Finding the correct ones).
I have never had this issue before. Only on this motor. Buying Pacific bolts is a pain in he ass.
I'll see if everything works well once I get the bolts.
I Have a channel here on youtube. I Should cover these bolts.
Thankyou for your time
Doc Thompson
@@DocAnkh Thanks for the info!
I know it’s been a while since this video was made but is there any good videos on the proper way to pull a coyote from the engine bay like the beginning of the video
Great question. An S197 is not that hard. Use engine lift plates and a load leveler. You need to be able to adjust the angle of the engine as you pull it. I did it myself without any help.
@@Mustang-Geek I have a 2011 GT and I have borrowed a leveler to try to get it out myself, but I’ve been a little worried about taking apart more than necessary to pull the engine and leave the transmission
@@DreFromThe6ix I can't remember if I removed the transmission first. Remove the radiator and disconnect the AC compressor from the engine and lay it aside. You won't need to disturb the lines. Just remove the stretchy belt and the compressor.
@@Mustang-Geek So far ground straps have been the only item people don’t think to disconnect. I think I found a guide online but I may have to go with the trial and error method lol
@@DreFromThe6ix Just take your time and use common sense.
Question, at 9:40 it says "Oil Pump Bolt Torque Stage 2" 3 different times with 3 different torque specs. Is it just saying to tighten everything to 89 lb-in, and then 177 lb-in, and then 18 lb-ft? So the plate is tightened as evenly as possible?
It's kinda complicated. That's why I say use a manual :) But, here's a screen shot with the specs and diagram: ruclips.net/channel/UCeJaO0ySaJ07Igg-qgMWvPQcommunity?lb=Ugkx28YSKYUfFROEl1J2pX9phObwkP01mu7S
Nice job sir always appreciate small details and explanations !
Thanks! Please like and subscribe!
Mustang Geek is there any companies that sell these Gen 1 with all this upgrades already ? Also about how mush you think it would cost with parts and labor?
Both good questions. I would check with L and M engines. I don’t know how much to budget. I think it varies a lot based on your goals.
Did you have to rebalance the crank with those pistons ?
Good question! Yes, when I had the machine shop bore the block, I also had them balance the rotating assembly because I was using different connecting rods as well as pistons.
Best installation video on RUclips on a coyote on the internet. I'm new to this and would like to purchase every part used in this video . How can I get a list . I would like to have all the parts before pulling out my engine. Keep up the good work great video's
You can get a complete parts list in the Summer 2022 issue of Mustang Hub Magazine: www.mustanghubmag.com/back-issues/issue-9
Thank you. I think I can rebuild my own. Great video 💪🏿
You got this! Please like and subscribe!
Nice. Wish you where my neighbor haha.
Ha!
when i buy my house. i'm planning on buying a totaled mustang gt and building it to outperform the cobra and this is what I needed
So, do you use the old torque to yield crankshaft bolts for the plastigauge or do you have to buy an extra set just to do the plastigauge on crankshaft bearings?
Good question. I used the old bolts for the plastigage. Assembled with the new bolts.
How much of this carries over to the Gen 2 coyote? I had a couple piston rings fail and figured I’d just build it while I was in there because it is a boosted motor. I love how detailed this was, I’m hoping there’s a lot of crossover because I’d love to use this as a reference as I’m building it.
I'd say nearly all of it carries over for the Gen 2, but double-check the torque specs.
@@Mustang-Geek thanks for the quick reply! Definitely will be checking the torque specs. You got a new subscriber here!
@@ChanceLaChapelle Great! "Tell all your friends." LOL
if you use comp cam valve springs you should upgrade the cam cap bolts. the stock ones are not made for the increased pressure and are known to break and cost you a engine
Noted. Thanks for the tip!
Is the engine in TDC before doing the cam install?
Not exactly. Hence the tool used to hold the crank at the right position.
On those boss 302 secondary chain tensionors are they shorter than the stock ones?
Yes and no. They look shorter because they arrive in a "collapsed" state to ease installaton. You have to Push down on them (like the top of a ball-point pen) to get the tensioner to extend after you're done installing them!
First time viewer, not a car guy by ANY definition of the word, definitely not mechanically inclined either, and its hard to get things that aren't opinions, but my buddy told me its not possible to go above 600 on a "stock ford block", in YOUR experience, what have you found? I see you mention replacing the pistons in the beginning due to the factory ones not being capable of handling the forces involved, was anything else replaced what did you change to get it beyond the factory whp? I kind of got lost in the sauce watching all these things I didn't understand and might of missed that information in the beginning or perhaps from another video.
I'm starting from zero car knowledge aside from holding a flashlight or a screw driver here and there so I'm not sure if any of that question even made sense LOL.
Your buddy is probably thinking of an old-school pushrod 302/5.0 engine. The "5.0 HO" engine blocks were notorious for splitting at over 550 lb-ft of torque. The Coyote engines, however, are a LOT more durable and handle A LOT more torque. Most of the engine components will fail long before the Coyote block. It's VERY stout and durable. The newest generation (Gen 4) Coyote engines are making well over 800 wheel horsepower on all factory components. ALL FACTORY RODS, PISTONS, and CRANK!
It's definitely possible to go over 600hp even on the older foxbody style 5.0 factory for engines. It's not ideal but it's commonly done.. I have a 91 mustang GT with the old pushrod 5.0 and it's got roughly 400hp. The biggest thing is engine harmonics (vibration) that's going to break the block. That and pre-detonation.
I’m curious, I have a truck from 2011 that was handed down to me from my dad, real reliably F150 I wanted to get a whipple and a forged bottom end and aftermarket cams, ive even a small engine builder mechanic for a couple years working on ATVs and stuff soon to be adding performance parts to mine and I’d like to step foot in the car world. Could you lend a hand brother ?
I'd certainly get forged rods and pistons. I'd skip the cams because unless you're working with a VERY experienced tuner, tuning for cams takes a lot of expertise that most tuners don't have. Rebuilding a coyote engine isn't hard if you pay attention and take your time!
@@Mustang-Geek ok thank you geek! I quite enjoy rebuilding engines funny enough. Now I’d like to reach about 700 on E85 or 600 on 93 somewhere around there or higher what type of trans and differential would you swap too compared to stock
@@Metro-fx1bv Your factory trans and rear end will be fine.
@@Mustang-Geek your sure? Even if stock engine is about 400Hp to 600-700?
@@Mustang-Geek I’m also curious the stock engine has about 103K miles on it currently, now obviously I’d be replacing main bearings timing chains all that good stuff, would I replace anything to freshen it up? Say stock cams? Or the cylinder bore I’m most curious about
Does the hardware kit work with the 18block? Why does it say -17
Not sure if the Gen 3 block is different.
how much boost is this engine seeing? how is it running now?
About 8 psi. Runs great!
If I never built a motor will I be able to build the one your making with your videos?
I'd certainly consult a few more books and have someone else who has rebuilt an engine guide you.
@@Mustang-Geek I don’t know anyone but I will buy the book to rebuild it and go step by step since there’s a lot of videos and 1 book for coyote rebuilds step by step
@@Angry-Little-Fish Good plan!
@@Mustang-Geek thanks to you guys I’m sure I can do it but it will take me like 5 months since I don’t know nothing and don’t want to damage a expensive engine
Any guidance on filing rings for boost up to 28 psi?
The best thing is to check with your piston manufacturer (or whoever supplies the rings) for guidance. They will have the BEST answer for your application.
this video was super well done. loved it.
Thanks! Maybe do the "super thanks" above ;)
Im rebuilding my 5.0 coyote and my connecting rod bearing clearances are 0.0011 is that okay or is it too tight??
0.0011 is on the tight side of the factory clearance, but still within spec.
Pretty good video. Having built a few, not much I would change about what was said here, other than some of the parts choices. Not that any were wrong or bad, but just personal preference things.
And what parts would you use?
Crickets...Chirp Chirp
waw, very clear and detailed, thank you
You'r welcome! Like and subscribe!
Question is the gt500 oil pump gear housing that much more of an upgraded over the gt one? If so can you explain why?
It has wider gears so it can pump a much larger volume of oil. This is helpful when running looser bearing clearances.
@@Mustang-Geek I’m gonna be running twin turbos do you think it would be a plus to run the gt500 one ?
@@valdo_s1975 If these turbos are going to "bleed off" oil supply, that would make sense to me. Also maybe run the "extra" clearance main and rod bearings and 5W40 Miller's Nanodrive oil.
You have any video of you checking piston to valve clearance stuff on coyotes?
Unfortunately, no.
Great video and info!! Sir where could I find a shop manual for my 2011 GT? I’m getting ready to pull mine out and do the exact same thing. Again, thank you great video and definitely a new subscriber.!!👍💯
Shop manuals are kinda hard to find, as they're expensive. I have found a typical Hanes manual to cover 95% of what I need to know: haynes.com/en-us/ford/mustang/2005-2014
Thank you very much for making this video! With the upgraded pistons and rods, what should the engine be able to hold power wise?
Estimating horsepower (or more accurately, torque) capacity for an engine is difficult, but at this point the Coyote block is the weak link. Reliably, 800 horsepower is a fair number.
@@Mustang-Geek Thank you for the reply, and what you said makes sense regarding torque being the better measurement. So given that the block the weak link, would using a gen 2 or gen 3 block be better for a build due to strength in the mains/structure, or is it more the problem of needing sleeves to reinforce the cylinders no matter which block is used?
@@bbkr7910 Good question! I don't know if the Gen 2 or 3 blocks are any stronger.
Do you know by chance if all gen 1 components can be used on a gen 2 block?
Unfortunately, I don't know much about the differences between Gen 1 an Gen 2 Coyote engines.
Definitely a great video! I'm in the process of an almost identical build. Curious, where did you get the guidance to go with 0.001 more clearance on the main bearings?
I don't recall exactly, but it's pretty common to set up the bearings a little on the loose side to provide a bit of extra cushion between the bearing surfaces on supercharged applications. Running a heavier weight oil and a high volume oil pump helps as well.
next time you should consider main studs.
what do you think about gapless rings?
We thought main studs would be nice, but weren't necessary at this power level. Gapless rings sound like a great idea in theory, but I've noticed very few engine builders use them.
i think people use gapless rings for the wrong reason. most people expect a big power increase but that's not gonna happen and that's not what i like them for. i like to use them on a boosted setup so i can have a big gap on the rings without any extra blow by
@@horsepoweraddiction808 Great insight!
Richard Holdener, Dyno Guru, advises .007 inches per inch of bore, for the top ring on boosted engine. That comes out to .026 inches of gap. Richard has learned, that extra ring gap stops piston failure due to ring gap diminishing, due to extreme heat of massive boost. As the rings get hot, with small end gaps, the ring eventually expands and locks in the bore. The top of the piston is ripped off and all hell breaks lose !!
Mahle recommends between 0.006 and 0.007 per inch of bore, depending upon use. I went with 0.006” which for a 3.640” bore is 0.022”. www.us.mahle.com/media/usa/motorsports/2020-ring-flyer.pdf
For what it's worth, I'm pulling apart a 2016 Cobra Jet motor and the top ring gap measured to 0.022 at 1" down the cylinder
Hard to believe you did not change the valves. That is the biggest weak link in the early coyotes. As you add any boost, they will tulip and you’ll be in there, redoing them if the engine survives.
Engine still going strong, but a better set of heads are definitely a good idea for a serous build.
I appreciate the video. Thank you
Glad you liked it! Please like, subscribe, and check out my other videos!
This would apply directly to my gen 2 for timing?
Hmmm. I don't know. I want to say "yes," but you should check a shop manual first!!!
@@Mustang-Geek where would I get one exactly for my year? Seems hard to find a real version
@@lander6679 Good question. Maybe try ebay?
will this build work as an NA build?
Yes, perfectly.
Witam jakich blokad rozrządu używałeś ?
I did not use any timing locks. The camshafts themselves are in a "neutral position" and the crank is NOT at TDC.
Super dziękuję pomogłeś mi bo nie mogłem znajsc blokad rozrządu.😊a z jaką siłą dokrecales śruby głowicy ?
@@waldekpucinski9945 I don't remember. You should always check with the fastener manufacturer for their recommendation.
phenomenal video
Thanks! Please like and subscribe :)
Love the video very informative
Thanks! Please like and subscribe!
I'm going to ask a lot of questions. LOL Sorry. When you were measuring your Main Bearing Clearance target, do you bolt the bearing caps down or just sit them over?
Bolted them down.
Should be torqued to specs too.
@@charlesholloman2400 Correct! Use the old bolts if using new torque-to-yield bolts!
Thank you for this, trying to coyote swap my new edge
Glad it helped! Good luck with your project!
Is That A Stock Gen 1 Crank? I Have One I’m Rebuilding I Hear It’s Good For 1000HP.
Yes, this is a Gen 1 engine. My understanding is all of the stock factory cranks are very good.
@@Mustang-Geek Good Deal, Thanks.
I have a 2011 F-150 with the Coyote 5.0L that the Ford dealer says only has 10 psi oil pressure at hot idle. Can hear a slight "tick" that gets louder when the engine is slowing down (after you give it a shot of gas). Haven't worked inside an engine since 1982, do you think I can just change the oil pump and bearings and leave the top alone? Only has 75,000 miles on it. Probably going to sell it, but don't want to sell somebody a truck that is about to blow up.
Might be the "bbq tick." Try googling it.
@@Mustang-Geek Maybe...what really concerns me is the 10 psi. I originally took it in because it had VCT codes. Dealer says pressure is too low to operate system and recommended a replacement engine. I put 5W-40 in as a patch and the codes haven't come back (yet, only a couple hundred miles), but I still have the tick.
Was there any machine work done to the block?
Yes. The extent of which depends upon the pistons used. We had a machine shop bore it about 0.010" over to match the pistons.
@@Mustang-Geek thank you and great video
@@frdstang931 You got it!
Bro this is the best
Thanks! Please like and subscribe!
Will the 2020 oil pump kit fit my 2014 mustang gt gen 1 coyote ?
Yes. This engine is a Gen 1 from a 2012.
Did you flatten the rings
I'm not sure what you mean. I didn't alter the rings in any way.
@@Mustang-Geek just seeing if you flatten the rings so they sit square with the piston Lane groove
@@shawnsitter5390 Oh, I've never done that. I just followed Mahle's instructions.
Thanks for the video, God bless you
How much did the parts cost for this build (just the internal parts, not including the accessories)
I didn't record the retail prices, but here's the parts list:
Mahle Motorsports Forged PowerPak Plus 2618 Alloy Extreme Duty Pistons 930258140
Manley Manley Forged H-Beam Rods with ARP 2000 Bolts 14042R-8
Clevite Main Bearings, 0.001" Extra Clearance MS-2292HX
Clevite Rod Bearings, 0.001" Extra Clearance CB-1442HXN
Ford Performance Parts Block Hardware Kit M-6026-A50A
Boundary Racing Pumps Black Series Billet 2020 GT500 Oil Pump Gears CM-OPG-GT500-VM
Boundary Racing Pumps Billet Lower Timing Sprocket CM-SP-11
Comp Cams Valve Spring Kit 0.550" Max Lift 26113CY-KIT
Comp Cams Hi-Tech Timing Chain Set 3041
Ford Performance Parts 2020 GT500 Oil Pan, Pump, and Pickup Kit M-6675-M52S
Ford Performance Parts BOSS 302R Head Changing Kit M-6067-M50BR11
Ford Performance Parts Oil Pump Installation Kit M-6600-A50PKIT
Ford Performance Parts Boss 302 Timing Chain Tensioners M-6266-M50B
ARP 12mm Head Studs 256-4702
For anyone looking to do this on a Gen 2, Ford Performance Parts "2015-2017 5.0L COYOTE HEAD CHANGING KIT - 11MM HEAD BOLTS" M-6067-M50 is what is needed.
@@gtrclark Good point. The head bolts vary over the years of Coyote engines, so check the bolts on your engine to confirm size.
Great video! Are you taking on any motor builds? Would love to have a coyote engine built for my 67 mustang
I wish. I'm not a pro engine builder. Just a guy sharing info!
Thanks
You're welcome! Please like, subscribe, and share this video!
hope fully you install better valves not the soft one ford used at first
If you mean valve springs, then yes...we did.
I understand filing the rings to a certain gap, but not sure what it was you were doing after that. You had the rings on the piston and then test fit it, but what were you doing with that little tool? What is that? I've never rebuilt an engine but would love to do one over time just to do it. Also, I'm assuming you have the block bored over to the 3.640 before starting? What all needs to be done to prep a block?
I used a deberring stone to deburr the rings. Or maybe you were referring to the pick I used to orient the piston rings around the piston properly? Not sure on that. Let me know the time stamp on the video you're asking about.
Also, the block was bored over slightly to clean up the bores and match the new pistons. I believe they were 0.010 over.
@@Mustang-Geek What did that change your displacement to? Oh, thanks so much for answering my questions. I really want to do a build.
@@ronin2167 Yes, it changes displacement slightly. I noted that in the tune, as there is a field for displacement.
@@Mustang-Geek 1:22 mark
Fantastic work 👏
I was hoping torque values were going to be spoken as assembled. I really need to know the torque values for the camshaft cap bolts 😣
Use new bolts, tighten to 133 in lbs (11 lb-ft) plus 90 degrees. No loctite.
What was the part number for the head studs?
BEWARE! I used 256-4702, but my engine used 12mm studs. Some engines have 11mm threads, so you have to determine which threads your engine has BEFORE you order studs.
I'm going to build me one someday!
Great! Let us know how it goes! In the mean time, please like and subscribe!
I heard that if you don’t put the piston rings in and the valve springs you get more horsepower
Try that out and let me know how it goes. :)
@@Mustang-Geek 😂😂😂
Awesome. Now I know for sure that I can’t do this. 😂 thanks
You can do it!😊
I have the Boss tensioner kit you mentioned and noticed the secondary tensioner is shorter than the original one. The origional one protrudes through the bottom of the cam cap casting (Boss one dosen't) and the guide attaches with a metal clip that makes it snug. It appeares that you just slide the guide onto the casting . The guide alone seems rather loose. I want to be sure this is right.
I figured this out after starting my engine and it making a lot of racket: After installing it, DEPRESS THE SECONDARY TENSIONER TO RELEASE THE SPRING!!! It should pop up and tension the chain properly. Try that out and see if that addresses your question!
Step 1 take out a large loan. Your gonna need it.
What are the dyno numbers
Full results here: ruclips.net/video/nY1Gm3b-HKs/видео.htmlsi=plqjkjuqMfqWNFSE
Did you balance the rotating assembly?
Good question! Yes, the machine shop bored the block and balanced the rotating assembly.
Nice video! Also some good questions in the comments.
Be sure to watch ALL my other videos LOL :)
Lb inches or Inch pounds?
lb-in, and lb-ft. Since you asked: www.enginelabs.com/news/torque-talk-pound-feet-foot-pounds-one/
2011-2014 does not have sinter rods. also the sinter rods can hold 800whp all day and have held as much as 1300whp
Thanks!
Start with lsx
Best comment ever! Please like and subscribe!
@@Mustang-Geek great reply 👍. I subscribed
What gen engine?
Gen 1. Thanks for asking. I changed the description to mention that.
Aluminator 5.0L w Calimer mt-82d 2019 gt vmp tune
guy on fb you're talking to about a job: "yeah my buddy can do that build for like 200 bucks, cant you make it any cheaper?"
"It can be good, fast, or cheap. Pick two!"
Mano .mio estoy armando un motor.de.esos.y me.prende una sola vez las.demas se pone ñesado para prender
400 HP at the fly wheel, not the rear wheels. Can't forget about parasitic loss.
What part of the video are you referring to?
Yeah but what cams did you use didn't hear shit bout that boys
Factory Gen 1 Mustang cams.
As many times as I see it I always cringe when guys lap valves it does nothing by itself in fact you may make your valves leak worse by doing that lapping the valves is a procedure that machine shops use to see where the valve seals at after they have done a valve job yes it makes everything look shiny and new to the naked eye but it truly does nothing alone
Thanks for the insight!
0.0550” 5-50lift lol its 0.550”
Oops. What was the time stamp on that?
@@Mustang-Geek5:41
@@AdashZep612 Ooops. Type o
@ yup I had too sorry
@@AdashZep612 All good! We all make mistakes!
No way I’d trust an Amazon torque wrench on main bolts.
Fair point. Thanks for sharing! Please like and subscribe!
Actually, their tolerances are well within an acceptable range. Even after over 1000 torques, they still hold calibration. The harbor freight wrenches are the best bang for the buck. Its all personal preference. Better torque wrenches have more convincing setting engagements, and more visibility for setting increments.
About as reliable as my used set of harbor freight jacks I got off Craigslist for $7.31 and a 5 pack of beer. It's fine. ~ this message was sent from an Apple phone located in hell.