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All good questions. You could try just removing the nut and installing the CarpetSaver on top of the seat mount. Some mounts have geometry that makes them best suited to installing the CarpetSaver under them, so that's the most "universal" method. Does your Mustang's floor mat have a metal grommet for the cleat? It's possible your carpet was replaced and a cleat wasn't installed. Regardless, the Mustang CarpetSaver includes hardware and a bushing to install it in cars without a cleat. The instructions are on the website: static1.squarespace.com/static/6746367d9a8bf85bfd196a0e/t/67488146b8623973b3f81cf0/1732804938270/CarpetSaver_instructions+v5.pdf

Mod motor, but close: ruclips.net/video/4ZJF_xPjrss/видео.htmlsi=koJ5NAwKcWQ43T0N

Unfortunately, only a custom fabricator can make one for you.

Thanks! I gotta figure out how to make Zipper pipes more easily. Over 5 feet of welding is a no-go!

@@ryanbautista6435 sounds like fun! How are you supporting the engine?

@@Mustang-Geek I haven’t made it to that part yet, but I will definitely copy your amazing idea for the bell housing support jig.. I have plenty of 2x4s lying around in my garage. So far, I’ve unbolted the 2 top 15mm engine support nuts.. removed my battery and battery tray removed dual air intake and airbox. Unbolted coolant reservoir so I can have more access on the driver side. disconnected my steering shaft connectors, removed my starter, and passenger-side catalytic converter. Tomorrow, I plan to start lifting up my engine using a 4-ton Big Red bottle jack from the bell housing. I’ll probably use another bottle jack with 2x4 to add additional support under the steel oil pan. I have a six-speed manual transmission like yours in the video, and I’ll definitely will copy your wooden jig!!

@@ryanbautista6435 using the oil pan as a backup is OK, but just to keep it from falling. Any bend in the oil pan could compromise the oil pickup. Also be mindful to only raise up the engine enough to clear the engine mounts. Watch strut tower brace clearance!

Stay tuned for the install video and sound comparison!

The customer did the drive. On the street, it's a subtle difference.

Good to know. Thanks!

Correct.

Before or after your terminator X installation?

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Not to the trained ear of a Mustang Geek!

You're welcome! It's always good to be able to help someone out.

No. The basic wizard gets you pretty close for 99% of application applications. I have my doubts about “tuners” who try to sell you tuning for these things on anything other than wild unusual combinations.

Wow. If you disconnect the clutch cable, is there any back and forth movement in the fork, or is the fork stuck against the transmission?

@Mustang-Geek I'll be disconnected the clutch cable tomorrow, or this weekend to take a crack at it; I'll swing back around and let you know.

@@Mustang-Geek I did happen to see that the aftermarket steeda cable has split on the outside of the hose. And it looks rusted, I guess? Surprised it's lasted 6+ mo and hasn't snapped with the force it takes to press.

@@DerDoppelagent that would certainly explain it. Get a new clutch cable. Chances are it let moisture in and the cable is rusted. That will make a HUGE difference.

@@Mustang-Geek any guesses as to why heat or letting the car sit and idle makes the clutch pedal easier to press?

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Sure! Just measure the clearance and make sure it’s within spec.

@ one more question, would you happen to the max bore you can machine a gen 1 block too? Can’t seem to find any info anywhere

Also do we keep the resistors on the connector 110 wire or do we do away with it?

@@Savayka good question. I don’t have my wiring diagram in front of me so I’ll have to look it up and check it out. But, I’m thinking everything else from connector 110 led to something on the factory harness so you can remove them. I think it’ll become obvious when you install the Holley harness.

Air pump tube to the exhaust. Most fox bodies have this deleted years ago!

First gen.

No. It balances on the front motor mounts just fine.

What year?

@@Mustang-Geek 2018

I’ll have to look it up.

@@Mustang-Geek I have a 2018 need help is this the same procedure??

@ ​I will need to look in my manual for a 2018 model. I’ll take a look and let you know in a few days. Unfortunately I don’t have access to the manual right now.

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People call them "Foxbodies" or "Foxes," but the early cars are particularly called "four-eye" Mustangs because they have four headlights.

@Mustang-Geek gotchya

Agreed. Iconic sound. The only cars that sound similar these days are Challengers and Chargers.

@Mustang-Geek Yeah, but for some reason, they are often driven by people that... how should I put this... are douche nozzles.

@@KGisthenameman people said the same thing about those that drove Fox body Mustangs back in the day.

The EGR is no longer needed.

The other video that may help is here: ruclips.net/video/F2APprj4jeU/видео.htmlsi=fjhevVVAI5XD_srv, however if it idles fine until the Wideband starts reading, there is an issue with the air:fuel ratio. There are a lot of possibilities, so take your time and try and figure out why that's happening.

@ sorry I meant to say the car freaks out as soon as the wideband starts to read, my CL compensation starts pulling fuel -15 -20 or so. Only for those few seconds. Going to go over things again.

@@SergioSanchez-rx1hg Hmmmm. That leads me to believe that your base map is off. Try applying the compensation changes to the base map. That should address the compensation issue.

@ hey man, sorry to keep bugging. I just re adjusted my idle screw right where it almost binds and did the tps reset. Tried it again and it’s not enough airflow to keep the car running so I kept opening a bit more until it runs. Can’t seem to get my iac percentage down. It stays around 60-70 and if I blip the throttle it will go down to 45-55.

@@SergioSanchez-rx1hg I suspect your IAC isn't working. Set the throttle body screw until it idles, but significantly below the target RPM. Do a TPS autoset. Start the car and unplug the IAC connector. If the idle speed doesn't change, the IAC is not working. Are you tuning this with a laptop?

Great!

I have a version for other aftermarket k members. The factory K member is pretty flat and does a good job of not catching on anything. However, you could probably make the universal one work that’s on the website. Go to mustang-geek.com and check it out. Send me an email via the website and maybe we can come up with some kind of solution that bolts onto the factory crossmember.

Going from memory: There's a lead weight in the clutch fork. Remove it or grind out a relief so it clears the bolt. That should give you enough travel.

Totally agree. Iconic sound!

I think the only issue will be the Terminator X won't know you're on Nitrous and therefore won't know which air:fuel ratio to command.

@@Mustang-Geek i actually researched more and figured this out. the n20 enable is all that's needed to activate the stage then i'd use 1 output to trigger the NOS solenoid. the input 1 isn't needed. seen some use it to disable the stage as a safety or to use triggering multiple stages. thanks for the quick reply though.

@@callofgeorge ​​⁠ glad you figured it out! It’s been a while since I messed with it so I would’ve had to do some more research to figure it out as well. I was just going off of memory.

Maybe to communicate with The Mother Ship.

Could be! You never know!

This has been an ongoing problem. Disconnecting the battery isn't practical if my other family members need to drive it.

I suppose one way to get rid of the door chime is have a dead battery!

Something's diode, for sure. The battery keeps die-oding.

@Mustang-Geek hehe you have no idea what a diode is do you boy ? Too bad you're ignorant as everybody else your age..

@Mustang-Geek better check your brains dios to see if you have any working... Apparently you have no idea what a diode in an alternator is that's too bad... But you're only a mustang geek without any schooling.. so you'll probably never find the problem...hehehe .. just learn to carry around a battery charger from now on hahaha

But not in two weeks. This would draw just a few milliamps when it would "sleep." Something was waking it up.

I can’t remember the exact number that would show up, but there certainly was not enough power to start the car. I couldn’t even roll down the windows or unlock the doors. Not enough power. Voltage is not a measurement of power. It’s only a measurement of potential.

Excellent! Do you have any idea what happened to all the camber plates? They made really nice billet ones that I wish I could find again.

@@Mustang-Geek no sorry i was at the close down auction and bought stuff but none of those were there??

It's not a flex, just trying to solve a problem that a lot of people have had as well!

@Mustang-Geek i didnt mean it in a negative way. I think it's great when people are successful and they don't even realize the flex because it's just their normal life.

@@johnmichaels4330 Oh, ok. Hope this helps others!

@Mustang-Geek i bet it will. Sent it to a buddy with a challenger that has a Hotspot built in. Hopefully it helps.

@@johnmichaels4330 Good luck to him!

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The alarm system didn't affect this battery drain. Something was waking up the WiFi and the car would go dead in two weeks. I turned off WiFi and that solved the problem.

Seems fine.

Not really running the car will recharge it

@@joemamasdaddy1703 How can I start the car if the battery is dead?

@Mustang-Geek If the voltage falls under 11.7 v the battery is damaged. Usually a cell and it won't hold a full charge either, can you get to 13.5v charge 🤔

@@ronnierabell1ok, now that I figured out what’s killing the battery I can address the battery itself. But new batteries would go dead in two weeks.

Boral ATAK with the valves open.

I got mine from NPD.

@@Mustang-Geeksmart move👍. As far as your repair on here, the people are lucky to finish this task without replacing the hinges for a sagging door by themselves.

@@timweb1510 Speak of the devil...ruclips.net/video/icVGNVW1MIk/видео.htmlsi=ve9Lx-ZS0DIMLlKS