I know these videos are old but thank you for sharing all of this awesome wisdom. 18 years old and you are helping keep hot rodding alive for us younger generations.
I think your videos are great. You seem very genuine, and your videos are very informative, and I like your relaxed take on things. Going to attempt going full flow on my case today.
Hey Jim thank you for the support. The job is a little nerve racking the first time. The engine in the video is putting down the miles even as we speak. Good luck with your project.
Come on baby! Haha When pulling the plugs, a slide hammer works EZGZ!!! Drill a small hole, screw the screw in and just pop it out. Super EZ! Thank you for your videos man. Very fun to watch!!!! I don’t like to do this with the case together though. I clean the heck out of it when I’m done to make sure everything is clean as a frog. Ha
Ezgz I followed your tips on the full flow . did some Hover mods. Working on a 1776 . just about to send everything out to get balanced Crank/flywheel/pressure plate /front pully fan welded /piston/pins and rods, I'm using silicone buttons, so I'm not sending them really I think they don't need to go Can you think of anything else Doing a shout out to your miss your Vids cheers Rob
The first time I tapped a block I dorked up some threads and was worried about leaks. Because I'm working on a real low/no budget, I tried what I had on hand and it seames to have worked just fine- I sealed the threads with some marine epoxy.
a much better way to aling your drill is to measure the oil canal diameter and have the first portion of your drill( about 2 inches long ) ground down to oil canal diameter minus 1 or 2 thou and sharpen the rear portion square I use this setup to make adapter plate between engine and bellhousings . in aluminium, such a drill is easily driven with a brace and the job is reasonnably accurate
+Blake Graham Thanks, yep the world is full of narrow minded people. I just try to add a little humor and show folks how I have been doing things for the last 25 years with good success. I appreciate your view and support more than you know.
Romeo Medeiros If it ain't broke and don't leak I leave it alone. Never had a problem. I don' t run any more oil pressure than stock. You can control that different way's. Bypass oil spring adjuster, oil weight, oil pump. I prefer as close to stock as I can get but like to add the full flow filter upgrade.
+TheEZGZ I'm glad you're around. I used to race VW powered oval track cars. I only learned enough to maintain the engine. I left the rebuilds up to others with more experience. I'm thinking of restoring my last race car, and the original engine builder isn't around any more, and the more I learned how bad the rebuilder was screwing me. If I mention "full flow oiling system" to those who tell me they know VW's, they look at me like I'm speaking Chinese. The original builder would block off one of the oil bypasses to bump up the oil pressure. I needed to to get the oil through the filter, through the lines, the cooler, a reserve tank, then the engine. Almost a dry sump system. Right now it's a toss up between rebuilding the 1835cc or just tossing in a stock 1600 with open headers just to make some noise. I'm thinking you may be hearing from me for a few questions answered.
good morning tim. a quick question just not tomake a wrong order. the taper for the full flow is 3/8 x18 npt.??can you check yours? and tell me ? thanks
good friends, greetings from Paraguay 🇵🇾 I want to do the same job to my engine, could you name all the elements used? And the empi model used. Thanks and regards and successes.
I think I covered most of it in the vid. Thanks for watching and commenting. Good luck with your project. You can also go with a pump filter if this is to much. carcraftstore.com/oilfilterpumps.aspx
Well I'm drilling and tapping in that same spot, but in my case (no pun intended) that will be the outlet because I have the AutoStick. I have to drill and tap on the side and plug it in between the holes.
you can't just cap it off as the oil relieve piston needs to direct the flow to the main bearings. However you could add or substitut a remote oil cooler if needed. It takes a special bypass cap in place of the oil cooler
Hi TheEZGZ Thank you for sharing this Knowlege!!! Quick question, will this location be suitable to attack a mechanical oil temperature sender ? I am concerned about the clearance in the oil galley and the pilot tube restricting the oil flow. Thanks!
+Emanuel Dávila Your instincts are correct! Do not restrict the oil passage. Take your temp from the oil sump. Maybe a add on deep sump would be better yet. That way you aren't making holes or doing anything permenant to the engine case. Most of the time you don't need that info anyway. I just carry a little $40 hand held infra red temp gun and point it at different area's on the case to let me know whats up. Better to know oil pressure IMHO of your over 30psi when cruising a hot day your not getting full flow threw the factory oil cooler. Start ups will always look high on cold engine but it's trying to warm up quick
TheEZGZ Thank you for your promptly reply! Trying to have some fun making an aircraft engine conversion. This is my first build. I was thinking about the sump too, but after I post the previous message I noticed the 10MM plug right on top of the one you are working on in this video (By the side of the distributor). Front of the case, to the right of the stock oil pressure sender. The oil galley goes up right below where the oil sender is, so this passage has no direct contact with the oil coming from the pump or the return from the oil cooler. It seems to have no other purpose but an extra 10mm plug? I think the probe could be put here as well?
Max Lopez That would be the normal machine process but it does not work that way in this situation. You can't even use a power tool. The block is so soft. Now if it was on a drill press all apart you are correct. This is how you do it with limited resources. Post up a vid of you doing it your way..... let me know how it works out for you. Thanks for your contribution.
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I know these videos are old but thank you for sharing all of this awesome wisdom. 18 years old and you are helping keep hot rodding alive for us younger generations.
Yep, I am counting on you young guys to carry on the tradition. Thanks and Good Luck with your Adventure's !
I think your videos are great. You seem very genuine, and your videos are very informative, and I like your relaxed take on things. Going to attempt going full flow on my case today.
Hey Jim thank you for the support. The job is a little nerve racking the first time. The engine in the video is putting down the miles even as we speak. Good luck with your project.
Come on baby! Haha
When pulling the plugs, a slide hammer works EZGZ!!!
Drill a small hole, screw the screw in and just pop it out. Super EZ! Thank you for your videos man. Very fun to watch!!!! I don’t like to do this with the case together though. I clean the heck out of it when I’m done to make sure everything is clean as a frog. Ha
Love your videos EZGZ Ive learned so much thank you for taking the time to share this tricks and tips!
When installing a spin on full flow system, do you have to change the relief plug/springs?
No
Thanks, always on that learning curve
Ezgz I followed your tips on the full flow . did some Hover mods.
Working on a 1776 . just about to send everything out to get balanced
Crank/flywheel/pressure plate /front pully
fan welded /piston/pins and rods,
I'm using silicone buttons, so I'm not sending them really I think they don't need to go
Can you think of anything else
Doing a shout out to your miss your Vids
cheers
Rob
Thank You Anthony. I am glad you find my information helpful. I appreciate your support and comment. Stayed tuned I have lot's of projects ahead.
The first time I tapped a block I dorked up some threads and was worried about leaks. Because I'm working on a real low/no budget, I tried what I had on hand and it seames to have worked just fine- I sealed the threads with some marine epoxy.
Thanks, thats good to know.
Little tip there EZ. IF the camera is on a tripod or in any fixed position, turn off the stabilizer. Makes the walls breath if you don't.
a much better way to aling your drill is to measure the oil canal diameter and have the first portion of your drill( about 2 inches long ) ground down to oil canal diameter minus 1 or 2 thou and sharpen the rear portion square
I use this setup to make adapter plate between engine and bellhousings .
in aluminium, such a drill is easily driven with a brace and the job is reasonnably accurate
Oh my god I was so nervous watching you do this! Was sure you were going to crack the case.
I should talk...I've got a dashboard Jesus
what are your thoughts on the Empi oil cooler system that returns into the front oil relief port?
I would not tamper with the stock oil relief systems. Period!
There are a lot of better choices out there
Fantastic detail there , and my that frog was huge ,
what's with some of these ass wholes comments lol, thank you for the vid always love to learn as much as I can about Volkswagen engines, nice job dude
+Blake Graham Thanks, yep the world is full of narrow minded people. I just try to add a little humor and show folks how I have been doing things for the last 25 years with good success. I appreciate your view and support more than you know.
Where is the video showing how to plug the case for the full flow? outlet hole by the oil pump?
Why in part #2 of course ruclips.net/video/4oLIUf1nHSI/видео.html I have playlists if you go to my main channel page. Thank you for your interest
TheEZGZ The outlet galley in the case. Maybe you don't plug that. Others do. Thanks anyways.
Romeo Medeiros If it ain't broke and don't leak I leave it alone. Never had a problem. I don' t run any more oil pressure than stock. You can control that different way's. Bypass oil spring adjuster, oil weight, oil pump. I prefer as close to stock as I can get but like to add the full flow filter upgrade.
+TheEZGZ I'm glad you're around. I used to race VW powered oval track cars. I only learned enough to maintain the engine. I left the rebuilds up to others with more experience. I'm thinking of restoring my last race car, and the original engine builder isn't around any more, and the more I learned how bad the rebuilder was screwing me. If I mention "full flow oiling system" to those who tell me they know VW's, they look at me like I'm speaking Chinese. The original builder would block off one of the oil bypasses to bump up the oil pressure. I needed to to get the oil through the filter, through the lines, the cooler, a reserve tank, then the engine. Almost a dry sump system. Right now it's a toss up between rebuilding the 1835cc or just tossing in a stock 1600 with open headers just to make some noise. I'm thinking you may be hearing from me for a few questions answered.
good morning tim. a quick question just not tomake a wrong order. the taper for the full flow is 3/8 x18 npt.??can you check yours? and tell me ? thanks
3/8-18 NPT use drill size 37/64 Create a great day!
good friends, greetings from Paraguay 🇵🇾 I want to do the same job to my engine, could you name all the elements used? And the empi model used. Thanks and regards and successes.
I think I covered most of it in the vid. Thanks for watching and commenting. Good luck with your project. You can also go with a pump filter if this is to much. carcraftstore.com/oilfilterpumps.aspx
Is The tap your using tapered???
Interesting video thanks for your insight, like your humor "RUclips garage people" lol.....
Well I'm drilling and tapping in that same spot, but in my case (no pun intended) that will be the outlet because I have the AutoStick. I have to drill and tap on the side and plug it in between the holes.
LOL that was funny. Good Luck with your Project. Thanks for stopping by
Have or do you ever block off the stock oil cooler when full flowing
you can't just cap it off as the oil relieve piston needs to direct the flow to the main bearings. However you could add or substitut a remote oil cooler if needed. It takes a special bypass cap in place of the oil cooler
Hi TheEZGZ Thank you for sharing this Knowlege!!! Quick question, will this location be suitable to attack a mechanical oil temperature sender ? I am concerned about the clearance in the oil galley and the pilot tube restricting the oil flow. Thanks!
+Emanuel Dávila Your instincts are correct! Do not restrict the oil passage. Take your temp from the oil sump. Maybe a add on deep sump would be better yet. That way you aren't making holes or doing anything permenant to the engine case. Most of the time you don't need that info anyway. I just carry a little $40 hand held infra red temp gun and point it at different area's on the case to let me know whats up. Better to know oil pressure IMHO of your over 30psi when cruising a hot day your not getting full flow threw the factory oil cooler. Start ups will always look high on cold engine but it's trying to warm up quick
TheEZGZ Thank you for your promptly reply! Trying to have some fun making an aircraft engine conversion. This is my first build. I was thinking about the sump too, but after I post the previous message I noticed the 10MM plug right on top of the one you are working on in this video (By the side of the distributor). Front of the case, to the right of the stock oil pressure sender. The oil galley goes up right below where the oil sender is, so this passage has no direct contact with the oil coming from the pump or the return from the oil cooler. It seems to have no other purpose but an extra 10mm plug? I think the probe could be put here as well?
Got those grimlins in Florida year round
That's what's good about RUclips, sharing our knowledge.
Why is the plug in there for starters, like why is the hole there.
Good way to crack the case
There is always that possibility but I have not had any problem
Good info...you sure need to be gentle. If you could add text to compensate for the air noise that would be great. Thanks.
I will keep that in mind for the next one. Thx for the comment and view
Love the humor
Thanks tim
Nice catch ;)
Thx
i can tell that is the first time you drill and tap a VW Block
Max Lopez I have done it this way many times Mr. Lopez
Thanks, Don't be a stranger ;-)
this guy been licking frogs or something
this is why women like Lub
Now that's funny hehehe I like it too!
Frog legs for dinner
Fried Frog legs
Back away from the brake cleaner..
You say that is the easy way NO that is Not the easy way you shud it go first with smaller drill bid then go after with other drill bid
Max Lopez That would be the normal machine process but it does not work that way in this situation. You can't even use a power tool. The block is so soft. Now if it was on a drill press all apart you are correct. This is how you do it with limited resources. Post up a vid of you doing it your way..... let me know how it works out for you. Thanks for your contribution.
+TheEZGZ good answer