Noel, I’ll see if I can explain the method a little better. If the boat, or the keel is leveled out. And then you mock up your board in the boat, so that at the tallest point (usually the rear) that the bottom of the board is at the desired installed HIEGHT. Since the front of the bow rises up you can adjust the length of the board forward and backwards on the hull until the top of it is level. Once it’s level you now know the needed length of the board. Now that the space, or gap between the board and the hull is the shape and dimension that you need to cut the wood. So in the video my board was 3 1/4 tall. At the rear I had it sitting 3 1/4 off the hull. In the front the bottom of the wood was resting directly on the hull. By making that tool, and setting the pencil at a height of 3 1/4 it will mark the bottom of the board where I need to cut it. So the pencil will not start to mark the wood until about half way up the keel. Then your mark will taper to the top of the board as the keel rises. I hope that helps. If you still have questions let me know. I can make another video drawing it out on my white board if you need a better visual. ~ Nick
🙏 Thank you. Yeah it was certainly more time consuming than I wanted, but I wanted to be sure that I did the highest quality work that I could, even though it’ll never be seen. ~ Nick
Once again Nick 1st class work... i ave never had an issue with water coming up through the bow into the front, Ijust made sure that the bolts were tight on the front eye hook and I glassed over them ..Water always ends up under the engine in the back of boat. having holes on your rear board in the back is going to allow water to enter under the floor board quite often ..
Thanks Shawn. I agree, water should never be up in the bow. And I also agree that my water drains will let water travel further up in the front of the boat. But I rather have that, than run the chance of any water getting trapped in there. I am okay with the water being on the fiberglass of the boat. I want to do my best to keep it from touching the wood. So with all my drains, I am trying to get the water to flow under the wood and not on it. My thought process is to provide the water a free enough path to travel, and not get trapped. Then since the back of the boat sits lower in the water it will naturally run to the rear and into the bilge pumps. ~ NIck
@@AutoTechNick You could always put some kind of plugs into the holes, that are easy to remove, kind of like the drain plug into the back of the boat, then when your done boating and your on the ramp, you can pull all the plugs at once at see if and any water will drain from under the floor board. If no water comes out better to have it dry than wet you dont want mold to bulid up under there, mold loves dark wet areas....what do you think ???
Damn good work man. Wish these videos would have been around a year or two ago. I’m also redoing a jet boat. My first one. Let’s just say yours is much more professional than mine is. Loving the tips and education though
🙏 Thank you. I do love the look of raw wood through resin. But I really dislike how the 1708 from tabbing things in, starts the change the hue to the wood. Really no way around that either. ~ Nick
If I wanted to install the floor over the stringers. Would you nail to the top of stringers or tab in some sacrificial boards and nail the plywood to those? Just to prevent any water intrusion to the crucial stringers…..
Hi nice work great learning also what year is your chevy truck? I had a 1956 sold it still hurts my hart if you sale your chevy truck please let me know Thank you Sir.
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Love it, where did you learn the trick with the pencil and the stringers? looks effective, but I'm confused...
Noel, I’ll see if I can explain the method a little better.
If the boat, or the keel is leveled out. And then you mock up your board in the boat, so that at the tallest point (usually the rear) that the bottom of the board is at the desired installed HIEGHT. Since the front of the bow rises up you can adjust the length of the board forward and backwards on the hull until the top of it is level. Once it’s level you now know the needed length of the board. Now that the space, or gap between the board and the hull is the shape and dimension that you need to cut the wood.
So in the video my board was 3 1/4 tall. At the rear I had it sitting 3 1/4 off the hull. In the front the bottom of the wood was resting directly on the hull. By making that tool, and setting the pencil at a height of 3 1/4 it will mark the bottom of the board where I need to cut it. So the pencil will not start to mark the wood until about half way up the keel. Then your mark will taper to the top of the board as the keel rises.
I hope that helps. If you still have questions let me know. I can make another video drawing it out on my white board if you need a better visual.
~ Nick
@@AutoTechNick Makes total sense now, Thanks for the explanation.
Never one to take the easy way out, always the one to complete the best work though! Nicely done as always!
Something’s I think that my subconscious is punishing me, forcing me through doing everything the hard way. 😂
Awesome Nick, I am going to restore 2x Hamilton Jet 32 Boats and your videos does help me a lot, i Learn a lot, Thanks Bud
Glad to help
Excellent work, my friend! The boat is really coming together nicely.
Thank you very much!
Nice work! Love the progress. Can’t wait for more to
Come. 🤙🏻
Thank you!
Wow- that is a ton of work laying that floor out. You know they don’t take the time for that when they build them. Very impressive work.
🙏 Thank you. Yeah it was certainly more time consuming than I wanted, but I wanted to be sure that I did the highest quality work that I could, even though it’ll never be seen.
~ Nick
Once again Nick 1st class work... i ave never had an issue with water coming up through the bow into the front, Ijust made sure that the bolts were tight on the front eye hook and I glassed over them ..Water always ends up under the engine in the back of boat. having holes on your rear board in the back is going to allow water to enter under the floor board quite often ..
Thanks Shawn. I agree, water should never be up in the bow. And I also agree that my water drains will let water travel further up in the front of the boat. But I rather have that, than run the chance of any water getting trapped in there. I am okay with the water being on the fiberglass of the boat. I want to do my best to keep it from touching the wood. So with all my drains, I am trying to get the water to flow under the wood and not on it. My thought process is to provide the water a free enough path to travel, and not get trapped. Then since the back of the boat sits lower in the water it will naturally run to the rear and into the bilge pumps.
~ NIck
@@AutoTechNick You could always put some kind of plugs into the holes, that are easy to remove, kind of like the drain plug into the back of the boat, then when your done boating and your on the ramp, you can pull all the plugs at once at see if and any water will drain from under the floor board. If no water comes out better to have it dry than wet you dont want mold to bulid up under there, mold loves dark wet areas....what do you think ???
Holy OCD bro. Lol. I dig it though. Learning a lot so thank you.
😂😂😂 glad to hear that the videos are helping you out!!!
Damn good work man.
Wish these videos would have been around a year or two ago. I’m also redoing a jet boat. My first one. Let’s just say yours is much more professional than mine is.
Loving the tips and education though
🙏 Thank you. Its good to hear that these vids are helping others out with their projects!!
~ Nick
Nice job my friend. Very tidy!
Have you seen the beautifull grain of the wood once you applied resine to it? Awesome.
🙏 Thank you. I do love the look of raw wood through resin. But I really dislike how the 1708 from tabbing things in, starts the change the hue to the wood. Really no way around that either.
~ Nick
@@AutoTechNick You are right, of course. Thank you for your answer and keep up the good job!
If I wanted to install the floor over the stringers.
Would you nail to the top of stringers or tab in some sacrificial boards and nail the plywood to those?
Just to prevent any water intrusion to the crucial stringers…..
I would tab in sacrificial boards to secure the floor onto. One less opportunity for water ingress to the stringers.
~ Nick
Hi nice work great learning also what year is your chevy truck? I had a 1956 sold it still hurts my hart if you sale your chevy truck please let me know Thank you Sir.
Thank you! My truck is a '52 model. I've had it since I was 14, so it’s definitely a keeper for the long haul!
~ Nick
What resin are you using?
Vinyl ester, from Fiberlay
~ Nick
@@AutoTechNick awesome, thank you.
Haha, boats dont have floors, they have decks. LoL.