I'll be replacing my 10-30 with some 15-40 because it is a bit thicker and will protect better if the oil pressure is actually dropping (not just indicated by the gauge). Yes, add the Lucas too! And a new filter is always wise (I go Mobil 1 usually)
Yeah...the diesel type 15-40 is the usually go-to for Jeep-type weather. Remember, at idle....only a few psi (well below what the gauge will read) is fine.
My jeep does the same thing. But it rarely hits 0 oil pressure. It does drop down to around 13-15 psi at idle might even be lower than 13 psi. Normal driving its goes to 44-46 psi. And thank you for the tip about the seafoam my Jeep has 181k miles on it.
Had the same problem. Ran 10-30w motor got up to norm temp and loose oil pressure. Changed the oil put 20-50 with half bottle Lucas and half restore. Holding pressure so far.
I have found that I'm not actually losing pressure. It's a problem in the sender. Replacing sender fixes for a month or 2 then back to the same. 2 of my 3 Jeeps have this same issue. Doing a test on the XJ-Wanda playlist. Check it out.
What is "Restore"? I got the same problem. tried 15W40 (because all my farm equipment uses it).... a little better - but ended up at zero ultimatley. the thought of 20W50 doesn''t bother me at all. Nor does i/2 container of Lucas..... but Restore?
Put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it to check if it's a sending unit as they are natorious. The new sending units are really, really junk. I've rigged a mechanical gauge up to my TJ and the oil pressure was 40 lbs or greater even though the stock electrical unit read 10 lbs. I bought sending unit with lifetime guarantee so they don't cost me anything to replace. I've had them fail straight out of the box, in the parking lot of the auto parts store. Between Chinese, Taiwanese and Mexican made units they have all been crap and they don't make them in the USA any longer. Even Standard is junk now. If that oil pressure was actually at zero those hydralic lifters would be clacking like crazy.
I agree, every time I've replaced a sending unit on the Jeeps, they last up to 4 weeks max, then back to the same issue. Only one XJ we have reads as it should.... for now.
I put sea foam in my 03 Honda Pilot and next thing I know I developed a very bad rear main seal leak. Barely made it to the shop to get it replaced it was so bad. Had no leak prior to sea foam.
You're not the first person who has had that type of experience with Seafoam and other similar type products. They tend to loosen up the gunk that may be keeping things sealed.
@@AxlesGarage I did notice when I took the old one off, there was oil all in the plug connector... .maybe that's why mine was flaking. I didn't have any electrical cleaner so I just blew it out and plugged it in...
Yes, it appears that it is a Jeep glitch. If the oil is warm when you start, (summer or second start after a brief shutdown) the pressure reads correctly. But on a cold start when the oil goes from cold to warm, the sender incorrectly tells the gauge to read low. Replacing the sender is a short term fix and the new sender will do the same thing in short time. I have yet to figure out a long term solution.
I put Rotella T6 5w-40 in my '15 Ram 2500 with 6.4 hemi and plan on putting T-5 in my XJ. I did this because of testing different oils and sending them to Blackstone for analysis. Rotella performed better than Amsoil and Pennzoil platinum 0w-40 which the manufacturer calls out for hemi 6.4L. I add a pint of Schaeffer's Moly EP, no lifter issues, good oil pressure.
Got a 98xj , 350k+,been using T5 for the last 100k or so. The new gasoline engine oils have way less zinc because newer engines don't require it,older engines have all sleeve bearings and need more zinc than roller bearings.
Got a 98xj , 350k+,been using T5 for the last 100k or so. The new gasoline engine oils have way less zinc because newer engines don't require it,older engines have all sleeve bearings and need more zinc than roller bearings.
I'll be replacing my 10-30 with some 15-40 because it is a bit thicker and will protect better if the oil pressure is actually dropping (not just indicated by the gauge). Yes, add the Lucas too! And a new filter is always wise (I go Mobil 1 usually)
Yeah...the diesel type 15-40 is the usually go-to for Jeep-type weather. Remember, at idle....only a few psi (well below what the gauge will read) is fine.
Low oil pressure is a sign of a spun bearing.i just replaced them and back to normal pressure at normal optimum temperature
My jeep does the same thing. But it rarely hits 0 oil pressure. It does drop down to around 13-15 psi at idle might even be lower than 13 psi. Normal driving its goes to 44-46 psi. And thank you for the tip about the seafoam my Jeep has 181k miles on it.
Seems to be a common problem, I believe it to be oil gunk/deposits that cause the false reading.
@@AxlesGarage Now, a video you should do is on the death wobble. And what causes it and what can be done to prevent it.
Had the same problem. Ran 10-30w motor got up to norm temp and loose oil pressure. Changed the oil put 20-50 with half bottle Lucas and half restore. Holding pressure so far.
I have found that I'm not actually losing pressure. It's a problem in the sender. Replacing sender fixes for a month or 2 then back to the same. 2 of my 3 Jeeps have this same issue. Doing a test on the XJ-Wanda playlist. Check it out.
Where do you live at? Is it really hot there? I’m in Texas, and it’s brutally hot right now. I’m worried that the 20/50 is too thick?
@@normanmizell7880 hey quick question... im in southern California should I run Rotella 10w-30 or 5w-30?
What is "Restore"? I got the same problem. tried 15W40 (because all my farm equipment uses it).... a little better - but ended up at zero ultimatley. the thought of 20W50 doesn''t bother me at all. Nor does i/2 container of Lucas..... but Restore?
Yes@@BUKWulfSh0t
Put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it to check if it's a sending unit as they are natorious. The new sending units are really, really junk. I've rigged a mechanical gauge up to my TJ and the oil pressure was 40 lbs or greater even though the stock electrical unit read 10 lbs. I bought sending unit with lifetime guarantee so they don't cost me anything to replace. I've had them fail straight out of the box, in the parking lot of the auto parts store. Between Chinese, Taiwanese and Mexican made units they have all been crap and they don't make them in the USA any longer. Even Standard is junk now.
If that oil pressure was actually at zero those hydralic lifters would be clacking like crazy.
I agree, every time I've replaced a sending unit on the Jeeps, they last up to 4 weeks max, then back to the same issue. Only one XJ we have reads as it should.... for now.
Mine worn bearings with some minor scoring on the crank. Had to replace the motor.
Sometimes it actually is low oil pressure, not usually.
where did you get your motor. I am reading that this is a common problem in the Jeep Strait 6.
@@jdrobison7869 my original was 231k oem. My new one was from Titan Motors and has been iffy since day 1.
Went and got sea foam at the beach from those waves. Yep, motor siezed
lol
My TJ has same issue it has about 20000 miles on it
My 97 Wrangler has been through several oil pressure sensor. Now it shows no pressure, but runs just fine. I assume it is something electrical.
Yeah, I think the senders get clogged, because they work for a while then quit. The higher the mileage vehicle the fast they stop working.
Put a manual gauge in. Mine works great
appreciate that
Glad to help
I put sea foam in my 03 Honda Pilot and next thing I know I developed a very bad rear main seal leak. Barely made it to the shop to get it replaced it was so bad. Had no leak prior to sea foam.
You're not the first person who has had that type of experience with Seafoam and other similar type products. They tend to loosen up the gunk that may be keeping things sealed.
This JUST started happening on my 05 TJ 4.0...
It seems to be a chronic malfunction. I've had several with this issue, but the 'real' oil pressure is normal.
@@AxlesGarage changed the sending unit last night and it's good now. We'll see for how long.
I've done that and they only seem to last a few months, then back to more of the same.
@@AxlesGarage I did notice when I took the old one off, there was oil all in the plug connector... .maybe that's why mine was flaking. I didn't have any electrical cleaner so I just blew it out and plugged it in...
Drove mine with this issue and tearing it down for bearings 😞
It does not appear to have low pressure, only the gauge reads low. I'm going to try a temporary mechanical gauge to see what the actual pressure is.
More Sea Foam.
X2...
It’s really not that hard to figure out it’s called a mechanical gauge
Time for new rod and main bearings
Cam bearings too. They are fed oil the same as the mains.
@@bedlamite42 you get the point
Show us your 67 Chevelle
Coming soon
Any update?
Yes, it appears that it is a Jeep glitch. If the oil is warm when you start, (summer or second start after a brief shutdown) the pressure reads correctly. But on a cold start when the oil goes from cold to warm, the sender incorrectly tells the gauge to read low. Replacing the sender is a short term fix and the new sender will do the same thing in short time. I have yet to figure out a long term solution.
@@AxlesGarage i have the same problem on my 98 tj....i just installed a mecanic gauge. hope it help y'all
Rotella T5 is for diesel engines... Why are you putting it in your Jeep?
It has a higher zinc content, much better for older engine technology
I put Rotella T6 5w-40 in my '15 Ram 2500 with 6.4 hemi and plan on putting T-5 in my XJ. I did this because of testing different oils and sending them to Blackstone for analysis. Rotella performed better than Amsoil and Pennzoil platinum 0w-40 which the manufacturer calls out for hemi 6.4L. I add a pint of Schaeffer's Moly EP, no lifter issues, good oil pressure.
Got a 98xj , 350k+,been using T5 for the last 100k or so. The new gasoline engine oils have way less zinc because newer engines don't require it,older engines have all sleeve bearings and need more zinc than roller bearings.
Got a 98xj , 350k+,been using T5 for the last 100k or so. The new gasoline engine oils have way less zinc because newer engines don't require it,older engines have all sleeve bearings and need more zinc than roller bearings.
I use it in vehicles and believe it or not a LOT of us have used it in our motorcycles for many years! Great stuff and seems more durable than others.
Ans you won't hear a knocking noise if you not getting oil at the top of the head.you have no clue what your talking about