The only oil you should run in your jeep 4.0
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- Опубликовано: 11 июн 2023
- The best oil for the Jeep 4.0
This is a reply email I got from Shell when I asked about ZDDP content of the new formula Rotella
Thank you for your interest in Shell products.
Our Rotella T4 15W-40 (CK-4) contains about 1200 ppm of zinc and 1100 of phosphous. These are the components of the ZDDP for anti-wear protection.
Rotella T4 15W-40 (CK-4) is generally recommended for older flat tappet cam motors.
Do not buy STP oil treatment for the purpose of Zinc or ZDDP additive. I made this mistake after reading the 15oz bottle stating it's first ingredient is Zinc.
I later found out from STP there is only 5ppm of ZDDP
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I’ve been running rotella 15-40 in my 4.0 for years. Even in cold western NY, no issues.
I'm with him on zinc!!! I accidently used a oil that stripped or cleaned off the the zinc on my 97 jeep, the ticking was driving me crazy!!! 1st thing I done was using Rotella for 2 weeks then changed oil again using Rotella several more weeks of driving the ticking was gone. The 3rd oil change I switched to Royal Purple, 2 years later the motor is still quiet and strong. Older vehicles need the oil with higher zinc content to coat the parts.
I run WD-40 in my door hinges 26 years, and still no problems…!
Great content! I have a 96' ZJ with 263,000 miles; in IL. running 15w40 during the summer and back to 5w30 for the winter. Cheers to keeping the 4.0 alive!! 🍻
Whats the lows for your winters? Where im at in nor-cal i run 10w30 in winter and the 15w40 in summer
Thanks for the info. Really appreciate the videos you put out. Great stuff man. Again thank you
I have been running walmart oil since 99 and it still runs awsome! You can’t kill them guys. Just change it
been running Rotella in my dual sport bike, mostly for cost-related reasons, since 7k miles - i'm at about 46k now (which is pretty "out there" for a motorcycle), now that I have a WJ I've been using T6 for 2 years and feeling better about continuing to use it. Though I do go for Mobil 1 high mileage 5w30 when it goes on sale since it has 1.5x of zinc compared to T6
I run Rotella 10W30 in my old Dodge Ram. I run Mobil 1 high mileage 900ppm zinc plus half a bottle of Rislone ZZDP brings me to over 1100ppm while running an affordable synthetic.
I run a mix of 10w40 regular valvoline oil and 20w50 racing oil . A perfect combination
Rotella 15W-40 T4/T5 is the best decision I’ve ever made for my 92 XJ. 165k original miles
Ha! My 2000 XJ w 239,467 miles giggled. 👍
@@TheRealestHi mine is still being broken in LOL trying to keep this motor to outlive me! Bought it at 109k for $2300 in 2012
Been using this diesel truck oil for 100,000 miles. Never have to add oil between 5,000 mile oil changes. Currently this 98 Grand Cherokee has over 265,000 miles . And reasonably quiet.
Good channel, great info…subbed!
My engine started knocking a year ago and so I put some of this oil in there instead, 10,000 miles later it still hasn't blown and the knocking is not much worse than it was last year
Had 3 Cherokee's , used Syn blend QS 10w30 with no isssues.
I've run Mobil 1 high mileage 10w40 in my 4.0 for a few years its like 900ppm of Zinc/ ZDDP if i remember.
I run Valvoline VR1 racing oil in mine. It's pricey but it's also a high zinc oil. I'm going to check into the Rotella. Thanks for the tip!
mines got just over 100k, ive been a snob about using amsoil the last few years because its supposed to be made for flat tappet engines. Recently i switched to penzoil ultra platinum becuase it has about the same amount of zinc but is cheaper. i can really tell a difference when compared to conventional oil, the engine even sounds different. It doesnt sound as tractor-y as before and it runs alot smoother, i also get slightly better gas milage and the engine feels like it has a little more power. if you cant afford it though i would still recommend running amsoil for a couple oil changes if your engine has over 100k becuase it will really clean your engine out.
My TJ has had Amsoil in it for 20 years.
I have an extra gallon of CamGuard that I used in my aircraft. I might pour some into the XJ's crankcase.
I’ve always ran rotella t5 oil in it.
was at my buddys garage one day watched him eat up 3 cams trying to break them in we switched to rotella the 4th time never had a problem with that cam
diesel type oil has deferent detergents in it for the different type of contaminates that diesel produces compared to gasoline. So yes, better with the zinc etc, but it wont clean your gasoline engine as well.
I run Valvoline High mileage, part synthetic 5w - 30...in a 02 Jeep GC . Starts quiet, runs great 167,000 miles... Also throw in a bottle of Bestline
I’ve always ran rotella t6 in mine.
Smart man
I had zero oil pressure when 210 temp at idol in my 99 WJ 4.0 at 160k miles. I have 40psi when above 1500+rpm. Using Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer ( 1 qt) & Rislone Hy-per Lube Zinc ZDDP Supplement (1/2 bottle) with 5w20 oil saved the engine.
But next oil change ill try Rotella T4 15W-40 (CK-4)
@LarsonChristopher It sounds like you are experiencing the common oil pressure sensor problem. It typically presents itself at idle when hot and the gauge will rapidly drop and/or fluctuate back and forth repeatedly. Replace the sensor and the problem will go away. A failed oil pump can't be fixed by different oil and will be purely RPM dependent regardless of temperature.
Also I'll add that using Lucas oil stabilizer will just thicken the oil viscosity and swell any seals. Which is why it seems to have fixed your oil pressure problem by swelling the diaphragm in your oil pressure sensor enough to keep it from dropping to 0. Zinc content only effects wear on flat tappet cams and has nothing to do with oil pressure at all. I suggest running mobile one 10w30 high mileage full synthetic. It contains plenty of zinc and a detergent to clean oil passages and break up sludge as well as a conditioner that protects seals without swelling them.
@@travispoulin252 I replaced the sensor and the problem remained.
In the summer I went to valvoline and got an oil change with conventional 10w30. I added a little marvel mystery oil.
The pressure dropped fast once the engine came to temp. Long gradual hills were a nightmare and I would pop the transmission into neutral and rev the engine to keep some pressure and keep the warning lights from going on.
Changed the oil pressure sensor. Problems remained.
Went to a different oil shop and coasted in while revving in N. No pressure.
They drained the valvoline oil after ~500 miles and it was black and really hot. They said there was way too much oil in it. The oil filter was dry.
So we added 5w20 and 1qt of the Lucas. I had oil pressure for everything except when driving at highway (warm engine and constant RPMs above 1500) and hitting a stop sign or red light. Then I would put in park and give a little gas.
Adding the ZDDP increased the psi to just above zero and only get the warning 0 psi after driving, turning off the jeep, doing something, and then restarting. Giving some gas and rpms above 1500 restores the oil pressure.
Thats where I'm at today. What do you think?
5w20 know wonder you had no oil pressure
What about the Lucas oil high mileage additive? I’ve been using it for a few years.
That's funny I have been driving the tractor-trailer for 20 years I've been running Rotella and all of my Cherokees just because I'm lazy don't want to buy another motor oil.
Being lazy is good here.
Ever heard of a 4.0 haing pushrod issues? The ball end that sits in the rocker getting worn?
Driven, Brad pen, and any oil that says racing on it is fine to run. Keep in mind they say any oil with high levels of zinc can ruin your catalytic convertor. But I've not seen it happen in over 20 years or running these oils. I ran the original rottela up until about 2010 when they took out all the zinc in that. Been running Brad pen 10w40 in my Jeep strokers with big cams and lots of valve spring pressure since then and have had no problems.
The zinc is gone? How do you know this?
@mblake04201 Because I've seen the manufacturers oil additive package sheets for it. Back in the day all American made engines used hydraulic flat tappet cams or solid lifter cams in performance engines. They needed zinc and phosphate to lubricate the metal on metal cam and lifters. As the EPA got stricter about emissions, oil manufacturers were forced to limit the amount of zinc and phospate they used n their oil and auto manufacturers were forced to switch to hydraulic roller cams to get decent life out of their engines. That's when every car guy switched to Rotella 15w40 or some other oil intended for diesel engines as diesels still required the zinc and phosphate, and oil intended for them still had it. Then the epa went after diesel engines, the trucking industry, and we got all the new rottela oils like T4,T6. We also got diesel particulate filters and all other kinds of emission crap that have basically killed the reliability of diesel engines, which is what diesel engines were always known for. Brad Penn and driven oils were both created to combat the problems for older engines created by the epa. It says safe for flat tappet cams right on the bottle. Actually, Brad pen has been around for decades. If your old enough to remember Kendal GT1, and it's distinctive green color, you've seen Brad Pen oil before.
What about restore engine treatment would you recommend for a 4.0 Jeep Wrangler engine
Have an xj 4.0 and I got a misfire only til it warms up but after that it’s fine and I get a high idle in park after it warms up
Could be your tps sensor is going out.
The same oil I use in my cat motors
I am in Michigan.....heavy oil makes it hard to crank ? I have a 97 TJ 130k
Some ppl say the zinc ruins the catalytic converter.
I just got into jeeps. I just bought an xj that has been rebuilt (new head all new bearings new gaskets and sensors) and its running like sh*t. No power can barely do the speed limit pops and bangs when excelerating and was burning coolant. I just took the head off to put on a new valve cover. What was wrong with the jeep?
I run Valvoline vr1 10w-30 or Rotella T6 10w-30. T4 doesn't have as much zddp as the aforementioned oils. By the way it the phosphorus in ZDDP that actually protects the engine not the Zinc. Zinc is just a carrier for the phosphorus, both are polar and need heat and time to adhere by the way. Watch lake speed jr the oil geek & it'll open your eyes
i have a 99 xj just got it. quite no ticks nothing. did a oil change rotella t4 now i have a ticking noise. did i just screwed up my engine? next week im going back to the factory spec. DO NOT PUT ROTELLA IN YOUR XJ. unless you dont like it.
Oh, and by the way, I know. Everyone is trying to find the right transmission fluid for the AW4 O'reilly's house brand is just what you're looking for.
I thought you're supposed to use dex/merc
I got a 01 jeep love it but I keep thinking there's gotta be a better oil now that it's older should oil change or does that even matter? Engine seems to run hot but is that normal LOL you know those kinds of things which I think oil could help with
Ronnie, what do you think about my 2001 4.0 w/160k? Recently installed a new Mellon Torque Cam and lifters...
Rotella 15-40 as well??
10-40 or 15-40 rotella full synthetic will be just fine
Just use castro classic with high zinc
Hi Ronnie, I have a question if the flowkooler water pump a good thing to run on the 4.0? I live in southern Arizona I was wondering if it would help with overheating.
I dropped from a 198 to a 160 thermostat in my '96 XJ helped considerably, fixing to pull the A/C out,Dosen't work anyway) and go to a bigger Radiator
Switching to a severe duty fan clutch seems to have helped with overheating for me. 210 is a normal run temp on a 4.0, Hayden 2791 fan clutch is what I got, there is some potential for belt squeal but factory belt and tensioner did fine for me.
Zinc creates ash which will clog cat.
I just put some synthetic mobil 1 10w30 in my 4.0 should i switch back to conventional T4 next change? Also what about a SBC or 4.3 gm v6 ive been running synthetic mobil 1 in those for a while is it worth switching to rotella t4 or t6?
In the summertime I run mostly T4 15w40 in my 1994 TBI 4.3 safari, I read into it and the funn synthetic T6 isn't actually nice to run in gasoline engines, it's made to dissipate different kinds of contaminants and acids from modern diesel EGR soot, it doesn't do the same thing that gasoline engine oils do to keeps fuel blowby suspended, T4 is still API SN rated! They've only tweaked the formula a tiny bit over the years but it's still kosher to run in gas and diesel engines, even plays nice in motorcycle wet clutches (JASO MA2 rating)
Can’t get Rotella here in Australia :(
Why
@@firingallcylinders2949 dunno. I guess they don’t import it 🤷🏻♂️
The dealership my first got it change the oil for me 6000 miles later I did change the oil myself and I asked what they put in it. They put 5W 20 semi synthetic. It has 10W-30 in it now, but will that cause engine damage after 6000 miles?
No not at all, not even a little bit, I bet you a million dollars and I’m broke. Wouldn’t hurt a thing whatsoever.
If anything, you probably got a plus 1 mpg increase but seriously it didn’t hurt anything, not even dead serious.
I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Loredo 4.0 with 78k miles. What's the best oil for this low mile Loredo?
6 quarts
Run the bog standard auto parts store brand 10w40 or 10w30, these engines go 300k mi with no special treatment
Wrong move, Rotella is the best oil for these, he is 100 percent right here
@mblake04201 lol. And how do you know this? You have no clue. You are just repeating what some else who also doesn't know shit says. How many ppm's zinc and phospate does rotella t4 have compared to other oils? I'll give you a hint...Much less than oils specifically designed for flat tappets cams.
I think you can get away with most any oil on almost any flat tappet cammed engine that already has a lot of miles on it, because the cam and lifters have seen so many heat cycles they are extremely hard. The problems arise when people try to run any oil in a rebuilt engine with a brand new flat tappet cam and lifters. Even with break in oil and proper cam break in procedures, I've seen dozens of hydraulic cams go flat shortly after break in. Some still on the dyno. This is why a lot of engine builders, including myself, recommend switching over to a hydraulic roller cam if they are available for your engine application.
@@mblake0420 It doesn't matter what special additives are in the oil, it won't fix a worn out engine, the reason any engine wears out is because of high hours, lack of maintenance not doing oil changes, running low on oil, etc. Low oil pressure is the killer not what's in the oil.
It sounds sounds like special oil is special treatment.
Is this applicable to the wj grand cherokee era of 4.0 as well?
Yes it is
What's up everyone, I'm in southern California, which oil should i run in my 97 XJ? 5w30 or 10w30?
You need to know what your running oil temps are plus what your main bearings clearance are or at least we're new. But I run Valvoline vr1 10w-30, you need 1100-1200 zddp for flat tappet
Is this the 15-w40 for diesels?
Yes.
What oil filter would you run with this oil?
K and N
Wix
Wix
Since zinc protects better can’t I just put squeeze of sunscreen in my engine?
Lifters and cam lobes on my 4.0 started eating themselves back in 2011 at around 51k miles. Not fun. Course my warranty had expired.
So can running 15w40 be harmful to a low mileage engine compared to 10w30?
Depends on how low mile and what vehicle
@@cherokeeronnie 1998 cherokee 4.0. Supposedly the engine has 100k miles. I run 10w30 rotella but just curious if it would help me or hurt me to use 15w40
if your engine dont burn oil i wouldn't use a heavier weight motor oil. i did that once to an old toyota and the valve seals started leaking.
@@josephwalker7432 that’s why I’m scared. I put 20w50 in an old 22re Toyota because it was smoking and it blew it up
@@deepmarsh
Was probably time for it to blow up anyway.
only oil that goes in my xj
What about Rotella t4 plus Ng 15w 40, does this contain zinc
I just add some zinc. Not the best for Cats but motor cost way more than a cat...
Funny i been running regular tap water in my jeep 4.0 liter for 24 years u can't kill them. ( just kidding guys)
You say you're joking, but my Jeeps have always been lubed with a healthy dose of swamp water and pure neglect since the 90s, including the axles 🤷♂️🇺🇲
Kidding… it’s really bottled water not tap
Not funny. Stick to facts.
Should only use distilled
Hmm tell that to my knocking 4.0 in my garage who barely sees hard use
What about conventional oil? Can I just run that s*** ya no dino juice
T6 is way better. COST more so people dont use it.
You can talk man
Wich one... Why the hrs of talking and then swallow your spit every second