My suggestions for P38 New Owners
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- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2020
- Here are my suggestions for any new P38 owner.
1. New Battery - get the strongest battery that is an option for the P38 at your local auto parts store. They will look up the P38 and give you a list of options. Go with the strongest batter.
2. New engine bay Fuze Box. These go bad. It is easier to spend a little money on preventive maintenance before they go bad and it will not start.
3. New drivers door actuator. The micro switches go bad in these. My opinion is one goes bad due to the plastic arm that pushes it down to does not push in the micro switch dead on. Instead it is a glancing blow and ends up ripping the rubber of the microswitch over years of use.
4. New fob. Unfortunately Land Rover does not make working replacement fobs for the 315 mhz (North American). There is only one company who has broken the code and can create a replacement fob for you. (Classic Rides North Whales) I had the fob key code so it was easy for them. Your experience may be different. Here is the link.
crnw.co.uk/index.html
Reason for needing a fob. The issue will come one day if the alarm for some reason is set off. The only way to turn off the alarm is with a fob or using the EKA code and process with the physical key and the drivers door lock. The issue for USA P38 drivers is the EKA option was not automatically turned on in the BeCM. The individual dealers needed to turn it on and give the BeCM a code. Many of the dealers gave the generic code of 1515. But there is no way to know if your P38 has an EKA code without sending it off and have it "unlocked." Yes a Nanocom will show you the setting if the EKA is enabled or disabled. But if it is "locked" it shows as disabled.
I have 2 sets of BeCM, ECU and Instrument panels. Both have the code 1515 and I have had to use this code on each set. The "unlocked" BeCM shows the setting as enabled when connected up the the Nanocom. The BeCM that is still "locked" shows this setting as disabled when connected to the Nanocom even though I have used 1515 to get it out of the alarm state.
The point is without the fob if your alarm goes off your P38 has the risk of becoming a brick. If you unplug the battery while the alarm is off the BeCM goes into a Lockout setting and has to be sent off to be taken out of this state.
Save yourself of this issue and get a working fob. And of course who wouldn't rather use a remote to unlock the door vs. using a physical key.
As for the air suspension, I think that is personal preference. Mine is on coils and I have no issues. It would be nice to have air suspension but the user needs to troubleshoot and often make small repairs. 
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I'd add a few more to your list. The fuel pump should be the first thing replaced, in my opinion as a fellow owner. They give you no warning you just go to start the car one day and there's no fuel pressure. For the later Thor engines it's a Bosch 66156 fuel pump.
One more thing that should be clarified is along with replacing the engine bay fuse box also replace all the relays. New relays with your new fuse box.
Thank you for making this video. I had all of these issues w/ my first P38. On my next one :) first thing I did was go down this list and I've had nothing but a boring, reliable enjoyable experience with it.
Yes, when I got the new fuse box it came with all new relays
Good recommendations.
I have a 2001. Din100 works just fine. I never use the key fob, I lock it manually. It went into alarm mode and all I did was unhook the battery and all the relays and fuses. It worked after putting them back.
Good video thanks. I recently had problems with my 2000 P38 which included
1- the radio memory and audio settings continually resetting itself
2- the back door occasionally not locking when locking the car with the fob
AND
3- the dash clock lost time
Funny thing was the battery started the vehicle just fine so I thought I had independent radio , back door and clock issues.
I figured I'd change it out anyway because it was on the way out and put in a strong battery (cca1100, rv220 and ah 110).all of these problems were fixed instantly!!
Thank you 👍
Another critical thing to check is the pipe conections to the heater. The O ring seals on these are notorious for failing, leading to a coolent leak inside the cab that often goes unnoticed. This can lead to engine overheating and rust issues if untreated.
I actually had to replace all of those one by one over my first three months of owning one. Also will need to replace all coolant hoses and thermostat.
How’s it holding up?
What year is your Range Rover? Mines a 2002, and I just rebuilt the driver side lock actuator last weekend. On mine the micro switch is all three switches in one housing. I hand ground all the epoxy off the back and rewired the internals of the switch. Not something I'd recommend for someone who's not set up for that kind of work. Working like a champ now. Now on to the passenger door. Thanks for the video!
Mine is a 2001. Yes agree..much easier to buy a new actuator
Excellent info. Do a lot of these replacements go for a Discovery 1?
I don't think so. The door latch is completely different. I'm not sure about the D1's fuse box
Try Iain Mckee (find him on facebook) for key coding. Be very careful when replacing the fuse box, many variations of the same thing, the incorrect item can/will induce expensive pyrotechnics.
Correct. There are 2 version. One for 1995 to 1998 and a different one for 1999 to 2002
british engineering at it's finest
My car just revs and doesn't drive what would be the problem?
I just change fluids on engine and trans, even changed trans and oil filter. replace the output sensor im pretty stumped. idk if its the torque converter or drivetrain or driveshaft.
So when put it into drive nothing happens?....check the XYZ switch. This is basically the part that connects the cable from the gear shift lever to the transmission. This could be bad or the connection from the cable to the XYZ switch could be loose.
@@cltrovers forsure , the wheels stay locked that's it while revving
How about the BECM unit - is that replaceable?
Yes but it will need to be cloned by an expert. The BECM is very robust and does not tend to go bad
without sounding completely dumb, i own a 99 p38 and ive been trying to restore it for years, is there a good source for parts still or is it a lost cause?
While I had my P38 they were coming into local salvage yards and I could find interior trim pieces but they are not in the salvage yards as frequent anymore....best bet is to find interior pieces on ebay...most mechanical parts can be found new on-line
They can be maintained in a reliable state. Most persons don't want the hassles of the nuance's of the P38. Things like all the doors need to be in the exact state when you reconnect that battery that they were in when you disconnected it. Air suspension, the key fob, EKA code understanding makes ownership not hard, just most persons don't want the hassle of these issues.@@Edmund_Mallory_Hardgrove