Range Rover P38 # 062 - AC System Fix +
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- Опубликовано: 12 июл 2018
- It's been a while since the last video, but here's todays project: Trying to fix the AC which has been diagnosed as a leaking condenser. I'll replace the AC switch and AC tri-pressure switch along with the dryer / receiver. That means almost everything in the AC system is replaced and should give many years of service. Refilling the system is rather expensive here so it's always good to make sure something else don't fail and require a refill again.
The battery box needs to be removed to gain better access to the lower intercooler bolts. The intercooler must come out first. Then the AC condenser can be removed. The dual fans are moved from the old condenser over to the new one.
To access the dryer and switches you need to remove the front bumper. It's rather easy except if the side brackets have rusted in place. To remove the dryer/receiver I find it easiest to remove the auxiliary fan and loose the auxiliary radiator to bend it slightly out of the way.
The whole process should be done in 3-4 hours depending on how rusted / corroded your bolts and pipes are.
Make sure to replace all the o-rings, lubricate them with compressor oil and avoid getting debris or moisture into the lines.
I prefer to put the condenser back in first, then the dryer/receiver unit with all switches and pipes to avoid getting debris into the system.
AC condenser part # STC3679 (I used a Hella aftermarket unit)
AC dryer / receiver part AWR1374
AC switch BTR9223 (comes with o-ring)
AC tri-pressure switch JTB100370 (needs o-ring JUU100100L)
2 x o-rings JUU100100L
3 x o-rings JUU100220L
The system uses R134a and takes 1100 g ± 50 g.
For an empty system add 140 cm3 compressor oil type ND-OIL 8.
You can reach me at gamuso@gmail.com if you want to get in touch with me.
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Thanks for watching, and I hope you found this video interesting. 
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A great video. I have a P38a 4.0l 2001. Your instructional video provided a very good in site for what to expect when replacing my condenser. Cheers.
Thanks for paving the way. I got my ac working again thanks to your info.
Finally getting round to my ac on my DSE. I have a new condenser and need a new dryer and tri-pressure switch. Thanks for paving the way :-D
Hello Hop Meister. Thanks for watching! I'm just glad that my videos can help someone else. Good luck. The green P38 will be recharged at the shop tomorrow so an update will follow shortly.
Great video; I'm your fan now!
As always a very helpful video, I just received my new condenser, so this video will help me a lot, take care overthere. Regards from Denmark
Thanks for watching. Good timing then, I hope you get your AC working. It's been really hot here lately so we can't wait to get ours working. Best wishes from Norway.
Recharged my AC recently. Still not blowing cold. Looked at the duct work coming from the blowers and found the foam was all gone allowing a lot of air to not circulate past the evaporator. Resealing the ducts made a big difference. Waiting until it's cool again to tackle all the blend doors and clean the evaporator.
Where is this duct work located?
@MIL-STD NA spec. Under the dash just above the footwells. Feel around under there with the AC on and you will fund the seals are probably gone where the ducts connect.
Great video. Thanks!
thank you kindly. Excellent video.
Thanks for the vids. They've helped me no end with doing bits on my green p38. Same as yours.
P.S the radiator you called auto transmission is actually the engine oil cooler. The one you call auxiliary is the transmission cooler 👍
I was struggling with fitting o rings and getting the pipes to fit. I see why now. Ice been using 9mm o rings where it should be 7mm by the looks of it. The parts microfiche does not show locations 🙄.
Thanks, that makes a lot of sense about the radiators. My bad there. Thanks for watching!
Tanks for a vídeo.
Keep going.
Always good timing, getting my ac pressure tested today, I don’t know which components (if any) aren’t working and have a regas scheduled on 20th
Hi and thanks for watching. I hope you figure it out and get it fixed. A recurring theme on both my P38s are the condenser. I guess it's most exposed to the elements and therefore usually fails first. Both mine had leaks in the lower corner of the condensers. Good luck!
Work On P38 exactly the same as you, put some nitrogen through to check for leaks and it immediately came out the condenser! New one next
Thank´s for a great video!
Excellent! Thank-You!
Thanks for watching, and thanks for the kind feedback.
Very informative thank you
Glad it could be of help, Andy. Thanks for watching!
The greatest drama on all LP is that the fans seldom come on and evaporator pressure hovers at limit, causing it to eventually leak.
Are there 2 o rings on the receiver dryer connection to te switch? You point at the (100) o ring that is already mounted on, but there seems t be a second one in the package I have. There are 2 small ones for the other pipes and 1 larger that fits around this one. Moment in video is 8:04
Hello, I was very interested to see that your passenger seat vibrated, I’ve been trying to trace the cause of that problem because it happens on my p38, were you successfully at fixing that problem. Did fixing the tracking solve the problem anything you’ve got to mention on the subject would be very helpful.
I’ve enjoy all your videos they are all very helpful
thanks so much for this video. i have a P38 diesel. looking for parts in france i will look at your other videos too
Thanks for watching William. If you have trouble sourcing parts, I'd suggest you check out www.paddockspares.com www.famousfour.co.uk www.rimmerbros.co.uk and www.island-4x4.co.uk as I think all of those might have affordable shipping rates to France. I'm sure there are plenty other online sources too, but those I've used before.
Step one: disassemble the entire car
Love your stuff ...it's been very helpful to me but I don't see you much any more 😪
I took my bumper off yesterday, the bolts are 14mm 6 points bolts on mine ;-) (not 10mm 12 points), just for info. Have a nice warm day over there, it is also nearly 30 C in Denmark and we have this weather for 8 weeks now, that is too much for us Scandinavian men :-))
We're hitting 32C here today and I have had to work on AC pipes under the Ford Excursion. Got a leak that I need to cut out and splice. Way too hot. When it passes 20C I tend to want to go into hibernation mode :) I guess Land Rover might have changed the bolts during the production years as with other "facelift" changes that are quite common (Mine are 11mm though). Don't get a heat stroke fixing your AC. Good luck!
@@WorkOnP38 That's because in highly salted road environments the 'little' ones evaporate and you can't undo them anymore, you cannot get the bumpers off at all without cutting them up as the thread on the other end also rusts in.
I have one from Switzerland, and one from Germany, one late, one early, both have different sizes, you can guess which one I want to get apart !
If you can source the bigger ones and intend to keep the vehicle, either slather the bolts in lots of grease if they are ok, or buy new bigger and replace.
Do you have the viscous engine fan installed or are those twin fans for the radiator cooling ? my temperature is running slightly higher ( 11.00 position on gauge ) since replacing viscous fan with electric mounted at front of a much bigger intercooler ( I have put oil cooler behind engine coolant radiator ). Cheers and great videos as always - I recently replaced my front differential with your help of course !
Where can I find literature for the High and low line pressure value ranges?
good man
Thank you for the kind comment and for watching, Saudi 999.
good
Very informative video. Is it possible to remove the radiator without removing the condensor and intercooler first?
Hi, thanks for watching. Yes, you can remove the radiator (both diesel and gas) without removing the condenser and/or intercooler. You'll need to remove the viscous fan though (34mm long spanner if I recall correctly) to get the shroud off/out. Makes it much easier. Take care not to break the overflow outlet pipe on top of the radiator. Good time to also check the water pump, thermostat and other bits on the front of the engine. Good luck!
Thanks for the vids. They've helped me no end with doing bits on my green p38. Same as yours.
P.S the radiator you called auto transmission is actually the engine oil cooler. The one you call auxiliary is the transmission cooler 👍
I was struggling with fitting o rings and getting the pipes to fit. I see why now. Ice been using 9mm o rings where it should be 7mm by the looks of it. The parts microfiche does not show locations 🙄.
How did you get the lines off? My 2001 P38 AC lines look new, but boy I CANNOT get them loose! Do you have a trick for that?
Mine were a bit stuck, but came loose without excessive force. The lines are aluminum so they may have galled togehter. Try some penetration oil, leave a bit pressure/force on the nuts over night. Give them a little whack with a hammer and see if they come loose. If the lines are free off freon you could also try to gently heat them a bit in case there's any locktite used earlier. Hope you get them off. Good luck and thanks for watching!
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Did you ever manage to find what the wobble was at 100? I have the same one at high speeds
Hi, it was actually the steering damper. Thanks for watching!
Work On P38 oh really! Mechanic just checked my steering dampener 2 days ago and said it’s fine. He said the ball joints should be replaced. Maybe this can cause the same type of wobble at high speeds.
Thank you very much for your helfull videos 👍🙌
Hi Jorge, and thanks for watching. Glad I can provide some help.
why do people by this car?
If you drive one you will see why possibly
If you have to ask, you won't understand 👍
it's a cult.