2016 Ford Expedition. I drove the truck. Got it nice and hot. Tried the O2 sensor. Would not budge. I used deep creep and propane torch. Would not budge. Used a hammer pounding on the end of a 22mm combination wrench. Nope. It started slipping. Rounding over the nut. I was panicking. Nothing was working. I was about to get a Dremel and cut off the O2 sensor and then drill it out or something I don’t know. Just before I started cutting I remembered my dad talked about using the two wrench system. Link two wrenches together for extra leverage. I tried that and bam💥 !!!! Slowly that O2 started to crack loose. I was so happy. Dad always knows best. He always used to say “Leverage is your friend”. I love my dad. He’s a smart man. Taught me everything I know.
The double wrench technique works great when there's only enough room for an open end wrench especially. Been doing it for over 25 years. If the fastener is rounding off leverage could be worse for it than anything, you need to break the bond of rust in between the threads which is why rattling it is the best bet until you get it broken free enough to work it back and forth
I know this is dumb, but being able to have the vehicle over head is EVERYTHING. Trust me, I know cause I'm in the middle of removing a stuck downstream O2 sensor and I'm on the floor with the sensor 6" above my face and a flashlight in my mouth. No room to work makes the job seriously tougher.
Yep that’s the thing with these videos. I’ll be doing mine on the floor as well (2010 Grand Caravan). At least it looks like I have a little room. Fun fun.
I know exactly how you feel. I tell everyone that I will Repair everything on my cars that don’t require a car lift or me having to go under a jacked up 3-5k pound car basically. Lol
Went to sea for 35 years working in the engineroom. I’ve probably used 20 pounds of beeswax in my lifetime. Beeswax has a higher melting point and won’t flash. Heat up the joint and melt the beeswax into it. Heat cycle it several times if time allows and bang on it. He’s right, it’s the hard shock that breaks it loose. Use the shortest wrench you have to hammer on. He’s also very right about working back and forth once it’s loose while flushing it with penetrating oil. I’ve seen nubies get a bolt loose only to seize it the very next half turn. Great video! Thanks for posting.
Funny to see tv and on youtube go candle wax dont work when they do not add enough heat My cousin a hd mechanic taught me this to remove broken studs in old exhaust manifolds works like a charm never thought to try beeswax great tip
Thank you Ernie Engineer!! I'm 44 years old and have been fixing my own vehicles my whole life! Tried beeswax on my seized o2 sensor and it broke loose! I had been spraying with penetrating oil, and using the air chisel but it didnt budge until the beeswax! Never too old to learn a new trick, and I wont forget this one!
The best way to get any stuck bolt loose is number one , heat it up good I'm talking orange hot. Two, take a garden hose and cool it as fast as you can , when its cold it will be next to finger tight , Works 100% of the time. Been turning wrenches for 25 years a old man taught me this trick . Best thing I ever learned in a shop. Its amazing how well it works.
What that also does is causes thermal expansion and contraction. We're talking thousands of an inch, but, you could cause warpage and damage. That being said. If all else fails, do what works to get er done
We called it heat and shock when I worked for a mining company. We had giant haul trucks with 1-7/8" lug studs, we'd heat the stubborn ones and hit with a hose that pumped ice water. Usually took one cycle and they'd come off. We always replaced the lug nuts but couldn't damage the studs, and no... we never experienced warpage.
When you said it's going to be a "quick, to the point video" and I saw it was 8:41 long, I thought "Great, another jabberbox who likes to hear himself talk." but you were true to your word. The whole thing was packed with useful info and I appreciate that.
At my first shop, an old BMW mechanic showed me the impact chisel technique on the wrench to free up rusted brake lines. I couldn't believe he saved it! We worked it back and forth very carefully and it took a while.
the mechanics up the road from me need to watch this there trying to charge me for a new cat assuming they won’t get the sensor off…..they haven’t even tried……iv been driving for 30 years and still yet to meet an honest mechanic……I need someone like you
Damn! Your video is so much better then the usual. No long preamble just straight to it, camera pointed at what your talking about, on point, to the point, good work!
YO DUDES, I'M self employed, retired Navy Mustang, whom uses the heck out of technology. I have had MANY stuck O2 senders and a variety of threaded fasteners. LOOK into using an INDUCTION HEATER for corrosion stuck threads. There are a few good ones out there and the results may really surprise you. In some cases you will have damaged threads, just chase them or if really gone, TIME-SERTS work really great. Carry On
Oh, I am preparing for what may the worst, and your mention of using induction heat may be a winner and safer. I may be trying a Ridgid RT-175 pipe soldering tool for this per for your comment if the worst starts to happen. ☺
Nice job on the video. You ran through several options quickly and were very clear on how and why. I'm never sure why people want to complain about the person making the video because they don't have a lift or the right tools. Very helpful, thanks for your time and all others with good tips!
Thanks Chris! I like the ideas, particularly the air-chisel-pickle-fork on the wrench: easier than the hammer swing. I'm a car restorer by trade, and engineer by education. All your observations on the use of lubricants are excellent. I want to mention the trick I use for seized/corroded fasteners in-general: Since heating expands metal, and cooling contracts it, the goal is always to heat the outer portion while cooling the inner. As the gap between them grows, you want the penetrant/lubricant (everyone has their favorite: I like Kroil.) to get pulled into that gap. I use a propane torch to heat the nut/boss/bung. When I get the oil smoking, I use a can of office -duster, upside down, on the bolt/stud/sensor. (THIS IS POTENTIALLY HAZARDOUS! Upside-down, the office duster will emit liquid at cryogenic temperatures, similar to liquid nitrogen. Wear eye protection and long gloves!) Get the sensor frosty, and add your penetrant at the thread interface. NOW do everything Chris shows! In some cases, you can win by reversing this idea: When bolts are broken off inside a blind hole, oil the threads in the hole to prevent adhesion. Then, use a center punch followed by a sharp drill tip to clean the center of the offending bolt fragment. (Don't drill it out, just prep a spot to start the weld.) Using a wire-feed welder, strike an arc on the bolt remnant, and fill the hole to the surface. Now hold a nut in place with a cheap wrench, and weld the inside of the nut to the previous weld. The bolt tries to expand, but is contained by the surrounding colder material, so it can only mold itself more uniformly to the hole (and thus decrease the pressure at the bound points). Hose everything down with penetrant, and take-five. When you come back, the previously glowing bolt fragment has cooled and contracted, by transferring it's heat to the surrounding material, which has now expanded. Chances are excellent you can put a wrench on the nut (now bolt-head) and turn the whole thing out in one piece. Sometimes, I have to repeat a couple times. At worst, I'm back to drilling it out, but I've annealed the metal by heating it and letting it cool slowly, so it drills easier. Win-win. I'm subscribing, because there is no substitute for experience, and production mechanics like Chris get more experience in a week than I get in a year.
hmmm... @ cryogenic temperatures. well, working in a medical lab for 15 years and dealing directly with cryo freezers.... I would have to say you are a bit off. Super cold? Absolutely. Cryo freezer temps.? Not quite... it will cause frostbite quite quickly and yeah, if you are dumb enough to keep doing it you could lose a digit.... and there's nothing quite like a good annealing... but hey, good info for noobs.
I have worked in the rust belt of western NY my entire life. I love the air hammer idea. Getting the penetrant to start working it's way into the threads is paramount. Additionally, great job on the video while you were on the clock.
An absolute master class on a common and difficult problem. There are a lot of videos on how to do this and that, but they never show you how to deal with the annoying things that inevitably go wrong. This is a very valuable video that will really help a lot of people.
I had a terrible experience with o2 sensors few months back, rounded the entire thing trying every trick I knew, I got it after a few weeks with penetration oil, blow torch, and vise grips/pipe wrench, I now have a lot a respect for people who have the patience to deal with these all the time
One trick an older tech taught me years ago with 02 sensors is tighten the old one a little bit until it makes a pop sound. They come out like that 95% of the time
Dude!!! This video was a life saver! Just bought an 03 Durango with 250k on it. The rust on it is surprisingly minimal for a 21 year old Colorado truck, but those O2 sensors were stuck on. Less than five minutes of pounding on that box wrench with my hammer and the first one broke loose and spun out with zero galling!
Great techniques especially the last one. I know that will work.Your last comment on taking your time and not getting in a hurry.(which is very inconvenient when customers are pressing to get their cars back) is key.Being in hurry with frozen bolts only causes more sorrow and requires a whole nother level of skill
Hey Chris , gotta respect a professional that admits to "rookie moves" , we all make''em , I once in a haste cut through some flooring in a VW with my grinder/cutter while repairing rust holes, after seeing a puddle on the ground realized I had cut through not one but two brake lines , didn't read through all the comments , hopefully not repeating , but one trick I use is to carefully tighten seized nuts bolts etc, a 16th to 32nd of a turn before loosening , supposedly stretching the threads and breaking the rust bond ,,, great video ...
Wow! Dude I loved your delivery even on the clock! As a female who is mechanically inclined and currently working on a 95’Buick Regal Custom 4dr Sedan 3.1 I need ALL the details / experienced tricks or skills of removal and replacement . Because I swear thus far every single project has turned into a full blown nightmare. I buy the correct tools needed for a project and I have to stop to research and watch videos on how to make it pass this situation to achieve final results without killing my body from straining. So as I prepare for the challenges in regards to O2 sensors 😢removals YOU ARE MY HERO! I will have everything ready in my removing. Well almost everything- if I could do it on a lift 🎉 time… thanks dude you rock gonna check out more of your stuff.😊
Another thing is after heating the bung is to shock it with some cold, non-flammable spray... carb cleaner, whatever to help break the rust weld. Great video!
Thanks Chris, I appreciate the tips, which applies to everything stuck. You communicate excellent, I do not have to be careful listening with my grandchildren present. Continue with honest, no-nonsense videos. They are appreciated.
Several years ago, I bought a cheap set of Chinese flare nut wrenches at Princess Auto (Harbor Freight in the US). They are thick and crude, pretty awful for actual brake lines etc. But they go up to 24 mm, and the 22 mm is a perfect fit for many O2 sensors. Being so thick, and providing contact on 5 flats, they work really well for this job. Honestly, it's about the only thing I have ever used them for, but it was still $8 well spent!
@Thomas Marshall I don't think he means that literally. Princess Auto is sort of the Canadian equivalent. They even sell surplus stuff. Been in one many times and they have a catalogue they mail out
As a Christian, I always want to take time out to thank professionals who freely share their expertise - thanks for helping to relieve a major headache - the video was concise and provided more than one solution - extremely insightful - thanks again.
Considering the work hours and spare parts necessary, is it even worth fixing a car like this (the first one)? I mean i live in europe but the labour cost alone will already be more than the value of the car.
Good job on the video Chris. See the comment below about the anti seize. I was a mechanic for 25 years but now the technology requires the proper product for sensors. Good to have comments from folks who have experience and share info.
I'm a total rookie with car repair, but when I had a seized O2 sensor in my 2001 RX I used Royal Purple Maxfilm. It worked perfectly. There was so little space in the engine bay I couldn't really get a long wrench on it. I sprayed all three with the Maxfilm a couple of times, let it sit overnight, and they all came off with no issues.
Thanks Bud! Doing battle with one, and looking to see what else to consider. Short, and too the point... you touch on what there is for options. Just what was needed.
On the cheap chinese socket, it takes a little more time but after you put the socket on the oxygen sensor use a hose clamp on the end of the socket to help keep it from spreading open. It might help
Not sounding weird at all. This is exactly what I’ve been searching for. I have a 03 excursion v10 235k below average rust but Ford OE o2s doubtful original but old. No lift just driveway and It feels like it wants to break every time I put ass behind it so that pickle fork air hammer will do the trick THANK YOU!!
After using penetrating fluid, suggest getting a can of liquid butane lighter fluid, holding the can upside down and pressing nozzle against threads it to release liquid butane into the threads. The liquid butane will help carry the penetrating fluid deeper. It will also get the part very cold which has effect similar to using a torch but is contraction vs expansion.
Excellent summary of the various techniques. I need to remove the O2 sensor on my 2014 Chevy Cruze because of the dredded P0420 code. Thank You for sharing your expertise!
If you have to go with a common combination wrench, use a 6 point box end wrench instead of a12 point, it will lessen your chances of rounding off the sensor. Never rotate the sensor with the wiring harness connected. You’ll put at least 5 full turns in and twist up your wiring to the point of possibly damaging it. One viewer mentioned letting the exhaust system warm up from running the engine. This is also very effective and will allow your penetrant to flow better into the threads.
Is there is enough length on The Wire there is no sense in going to disconnect it inside of the vehicle. I've changed several hundred sensors and never had an issue. Of course there is a point where you would do damage by twisting the wires to tight. I always make sure to count the rotations off and clock the sensor properly before reinstalling. but yes you're right that you should disconnect the sensor generally. It's just not always practical depending on where the location of the connector is
I love that splitter fork and air chisel idea! I'll be stealing that as my own idea in the shop soon enuf... Sometimes I need to wedge a prybar in ther and move the wrench with that, but that air chisel idea is great! I also like to let the cars run for 20 minutes and get that sucker hot hot hot for my A/F's and 02's, just like using the torch for 98% of em
Hey Chris, I really appreciated listening to Jen singing ! I would have commented at the time, but I could not remember who she reminded me of! And that was Cheryl Crowe!
Thank you for the tips! Don’t worry about the camera angles & noise, this is a great video going into my save later file for to view again. Hello from north east Montana.
Nice demo. I've heard good things about 50/50 acetone/transmission oil as a penetrant and have tried it with decent results. Patience is definitely a virtue. I had to replace the sensor on the manifold of my GM 3.4. The issue there is a complete lack of space for tools or fingers. That stubby socket was the only way along with some U-joints and extensions. Some engines can be rocked forward after unbolting the wishbone. It actually made access worse.
I heat cycled a couple of times with a map gas torch for soldering copper and it came right out. You DIY guys need to buy one. It does wonders for exhaust flange bolts also. Great video. 👍
LOL, yeah I was definitely disappointed that it wasn't seized up like the other side. Would have made for a much better video. She definitely lost a few pounds while in the shop
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow what state is that Jeep from to be that rotten In 12 years? I’ve got an 85 Jeep that doesn’t have any rust and just sold my 77 that was completely rust free and floors look brand new but are original.
@@1982MCI not sure what state he's in but northern Utah (Salt Lake City area) is horrible for the de-icer they use on the road that just completely destroys vehicles in just a few years. I'm a brake/suspension tech and have seen cars less than 5 years old that have rusted through the unibody to the point of being mechanically totaled even though they look fine from above. *** pro tip... never buy a used car from Northern Utah lol
There is a tool made by LTI Tools called "LT994 Shockit Socket". It is a 4 piece set that you use with your air hammer. Works great at removing sensors in confined areas and severely bound sensors. After the initial loosening, spray with penetrating oil and work it back and forth like you demonstrated in your video.
That LTI Brand, LT994 Shockit Socket, 4-pc Kit is kind-of expensive, for the weekend warrior, @ between $140.00 - $150.00. Yikes! But for someone that's doing this for a living, it might be a great investment.
@@namrednop LTI Brand is now part of Milton Industries. The kit is now available for about $40. Seems to work great in the video but I don’t have a large enough air compressor to use an air hammer 🙁
Good tips, I agree quality tools that don't spread are essential for this task. You can put hose clamp on the base of the socket, which helps to stop it spreading. Here in New Zealand we have annual safety inspections. For sure, this jeep would be off the road and to the wrecker for parts then the crusher with this amount of rust.
Excellent! Thanks for taking the time to do this video. About to do my sensor on my 08 hummer and expecting fun. Your methods will help me out a ton and probably save me a headache.
Yeah that's one of the best techniques ever In fact that was the whole point of this video but I figured I would go over some of the other techniques as well. Give it a try! Thanks
When I tried the heat & wax trick to remove seized bolts, for me, the wax & heat did work but, I had just seconds to apply torque to the tool! Speed & quickness was the answer. I was changing a motor mount on a Ford focus with seized bolts!
Heat the bung only but dont over heat it. It is .001 of an inch for every 100°f. I dont go more than maybe 250°f. If it doesn't move then, your almost guaranteed to be gulling the threads no matter what you do. Heat can be your best friend or it can be your worst enemy in these situations.
I've had some luck using heat with the MAP gas torch in the past. I'll have to get a pickle fork for my air hammer. That's pretty slick. Thanks for the tips!
Yeah a little heat goes a long way for sure! Soaking it and then using better Hammer with vibrations really does the trick though. At least for those one percenters that are really stubborn to get out. And no problem, I appreciate the comment!
Very informative. I just got a bank 1 sensor 1 code on my '04 TJ and was wondering if it was safe to use penetrant on the exhaust system without turning the Jeep into a rolling fire bomb! Thanks for all of the great info. Good video. Camera angles looked spot on to me.
Have an 05 Honda Element up here in Canada. Applied PB Blaster before starting and like you said it didn't get past the washer. I actually attached a 1/2in impact gun to the O2 sensor wrench (I have the space) and that broke it loose. I then sprayed WD40 on the exposed threads and used the impact gun the rest of the way (have to disconnect the wires first).
after trying most of these methods including the air chisel w/pickel fork, what ended up working for me was first breaking off top of o2 sensor with hammer so i could get 6 point socket on, then heating bung up to glowing red with oxy avetylene then immedately dousing with garden hose, came right off after with breaker bar and socket,....saw this on teryl fixs all lawnmower repair
Just replaced stuck upstream O2 sensor on 2014 Escape. Used your vibration technique. Sprayed penitrating fluid on using cordless impact on lowest setting to vibrate it. Spryed a little more penitrating fluid. Waited 5 minutes set impact to next power level and it came right out.
Dude just wanted to say I really liked this video. Like, most mechanic channels are some dude with no personality but you kinda killed it. And I loved the go pro angle. Usually people are holding phones in awkward places and it’s not good but this was kind of thing everybody should be doing. Your personality is cool and it was just a good video. I would watch the sh!t out of a channel that was all videos like this 👊🏻👊🏻
I've got a 1989 Chevy I fixed up and it runs good for the most part. But the fuel economy isn't great and the exhaust smells like gas, especially when it's cold. I haven't changed the oxygen sensor yet and was going to hold off until it's warmer, but will do it this weekend and your video helps me be better prepared. This sensor may be really old. No clue 🤔
A trick that always worked for me is; heating up seized bolt or sensor really hot, cool the area down with Brake oil drops; because as the brake oil cools down the area, the air inside the threads will create a vacuum and suck the brake oil inside. It works every time.
Thank you for the tips, I had an O2 sensor initially break loose but then wouldn't go any further. Your back-and-forth method while adding penetrant would perfect.
The genius take home for me was spraying the O2 sensors with rust penetrating spray, in my case WD40. I had 4 sensors on a 2012 Jeep Wrangler and the downstream sensor on the passenger side was NOT budging. I soaked all 4 and ran the engine until it was hot. I let it cool and repeated this 3 times and then let it set over night. ALL 4 broke free the next day. THANKS for a great tip, you probably saved me around $600 in mechanic labor!
Don't remove the sensor until you've tested so you don't take a chance of ruining it unless you're replacing them all anyways. Use OEM when possible on O2 sensors as it's been shown that aftermarket isn't always the answer.
Changed one in my 15 equinox 2.4 did it from below with extensions and the 1/2 air gun it was brutally tight. It started to rotate tried going back and forth but eventually had to just keep the air gun rapping until it was out the internals of the sensor broke off inside the cat, and it did some thread damage but overall the new one threaded in and l just tightened it with a 7/8 box end l grinded so l could slide over the wires it did go in a it did tighten right up so really happy left the internal pieces that broke off inside the cat probably sitting on the cat screen 🤣but all good no service light and pulling 8 liters to 100 k. On fuel monitor improvements in fuel economy was over 15%! I'm getting exactly what gm indicates I should be actually gm said 8.2 liters for 100 kilometers km at 8 liters for 100 kilometers 👍
Fantastic tips my friend. I used a regular 7/8 wrench and did the spray then twist back and forth method. Used some PB blaster as my spray. Worked like a charm. Thank you!
as a forty- plus year survivor of the exhaust industry; Let me share with you a tip I learned a long time ago. You will be sceptic at first, but give it a try- You will be AMAZED! Here goes; the tip is -BRAKE FLUID! That's right- brake fluid! Simply soak the sensor with a little brake fluid, let it sit a few, then work it back and forth. VIOLA! It really is like magic! Give it a try- You will be amazed!
I'm Johnny Muffler I have 40 plus years of doing exhaust work Getting a O2 Sensor out I mostly use a pipe wrench and a pipe on the end If I'm changing the exhaust I cut the pipe close to the sensor and spray pb blast from the inside of the sensor as well as a little on the outside This helps the threads from locking up and stripping them If you have one that's rusted to no end use carb cleaner 2 plus 2 on the outside and than freeze out This will pemastrate thru the rust better than anything The carb cleaner burns the rust away the freeze off is the best in a rusted situation If you have to use heat only heat up half of the area around the O2 sensor This prevents the threads from stripping due to the heat I hope this helps and Goodluck as always Johnny Muffler No Muff too Tuff
@@maxwellcrazycat9204 yes flat rate is one of the biggest scams out there work real hard real fast oh and don’t forget to pay for your own tools and break your body down but the pay is oh so great.... not...
Wow… an O2 sensor shouldn’t be the priority for that jeep owner.. dude you have balls to even get under it .. not any steel in that frame left.. that must have been driven in the ocean.. I grew up in the rust belt and I’ve never seen an undercarriage that rotted out for a vehicle that isn’t that old.. great tips and yeah don’t cheap out with Chinese sockets.. I learned that from experience on those sensors.. snap on, Matco or Mac
Good hints Chris, I did one of mine on the ground a 95 s10 blazer w/300k and lots of rust. Sprayed a couple of days w/pb and drove commuting to work. Then when hot put a snap on open end on it and it squeaked out.
@@colefisch931 In Missouri where I live your car needs an inspection to renew your license to be sure it's road worthy so you're hot a danger to others because of bad tires brakes no lights etc.
That trick with the air hammer and ball joint fork was great, my o2 sensor was rusted badly (car was 7 years old). oxygen & actylene torch heat and it was still hard to get out, came Close to cutting the bung out and welding a new one in. 05 Monte Carlo.
On Amazon: *PNEUMATIC PICKLE FORK SET: amzn.to/2D9Y85x *AIR HAMMER: amzn.to/34DQN9E *O2 SENSOR SOCKET: amzn.to/2YKUPJp *O2 SENSOR WRENCH: amzn.to/2YK6eJL *MAP GAS TORCH: amzn.to/2QwSRIj *PERMATEX ANTI-SEIZE: amzn.to/2QyWpK1 *COPPER ANTI-SEIZE: amzn.to/3aiSWbV *O2 THREAD CHASER: amzn.to/3DBL6YB In this video I used Permatex aluminum anti-seize paste however if you get copper paste I find it to be much better. Only reason I use the aluminum stuff is because that's all they get at my work.
@@austinkelley5614 fordtechmakuloco. I will plug a link to his channel in the description. Great guy. I'm definitely saying his name wrong though im sure! And yea, I mechanic. For about the last 15 years
I USED to go to PBlaster whenever I had to loosen a nut or bolt but after running into fasteners that wouldn't budge with PBlaster, I found an age-old formula that does the job much better: 50% ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) and 50% acetone. MUCH better than anything else I've tried. I shared this tip with a few friends that had similar troubles removing stuck bolts and they totally agree. Give it a try. Good luck.
Hey man i had a stuck o2sensor, I used your air hammer trick and it came right off !! it was amazing I wish I would have thought of that but now i know thanks
thanks Chris, I usually do the spray a lot with really great penetrant and do the week or two vibration drive. In addition, after the soak, I try to put a tiny extra Tighten if really stuck and I use a 1/2" CP air impact on everything, except dash bulbs. I have extensions and wobbly sockets that allow me to take parts off from across the yard but remember every extension reduces the amount of torque delivered due to the twist of the metal and loss of power transfer through the steel, good steel, bad or soft steel will flex too much. I use 6 point socket or wrench on stubborn pieces and stud removers for items that will be replaced, take care, and remember; gloves, seat covers, floor protectors and steering wheel covers. You do not want anyone to know you have been there, and leaning on the paper thin 'beer can' fenders is good if you plan on opening a body shop, stuntgirl
I learned all that the first time I had to replace one. Chopping the wires and using a regular socket works.Those split sockets are only good for installing, not removing. Galling the threads then thinking the new O2 will fix it, nope. It just ruins the new sensor.
You are absolutely right, penetrator will not get in until you crack the seal. If it goes tight, lube it and screw it back in, in-out, in-out and slowly work it out.
2016 Ford Expedition. I drove the truck. Got it nice and hot. Tried the O2 sensor. Would not budge. I used deep creep and propane torch. Would not budge. Used a hammer pounding on the end of a 22mm combination wrench. Nope. It started slipping. Rounding over the nut. I was panicking. Nothing was working. I was about to get a Dremel and cut off the O2 sensor and then drill it out or something I don’t know. Just before I started cutting I remembered my dad talked about using the two wrench system. Link two wrenches together for extra leverage. I tried that and bam💥 !!!! Slowly that O2 started to crack loose. I was so happy. Dad always knows best. He always used to say “Leverage is your friend”. I love my dad. He’s a smart man. Taught me everything I know.
If the nut is rounded leverage isn't going to do shit.
This technique saved me the trip to a mechanic for a 2000 F150 upstream O2 sensor. Thank you for the advice!
how do you link the two wrenches together?
The double wrench technique works great when there's only enough room for an open end wrench especially. Been doing it for over 25 years. If the fastener is rounding off leverage could be worse for it than anything, you need to break the bond of rust in between the threads which is why rattling it is the best bet until you get it broken free enough to work it back and forth
@@LTHawk You might have to resort to a pipe wrench of appropriate size.
I know this is dumb, but being able to have the vehicle over head is EVERYTHING. Trust me, I know cause I'm in the middle of removing a stuck downstream O2 sensor and I'm on the floor with the sensor 6" above my face and a flashlight in my mouth. No room to work makes the job seriously tougher.
Yep that’s the thing with these videos. I’ll be doing mine on the floor as well (2010 Grand Caravan). At least it looks like I have a little room. Fun fun.
Hard to get leverage or swing something like a hammer.
I know exactly how you feel. I tell everyone that I will Repair everything on my cars that don’t require a car lift or me having to go under a jacked up 3-5k pound car basically. Lol
That’s me rn working on a 05 Monte Carlo 😂😅
Join the club, man 😂
Went to sea for 35 years working in the engineroom. I’ve probably used 20 pounds of beeswax in my lifetime. Beeswax has a higher melting point and won’t flash. Heat up the joint and melt the beeswax into it. Heat cycle it several times if time allows and bang on it. He’s right, it’s the hard shock that breaks it loose. Use the shortest wrench you have to hammer on. He’s also very right about working back and forth once it’s loose while flushing it with penetrating oil. I’ve seen nubies get a bolt loose only to seize it the very next half turn.
Great video! Thanks for posting.
Funny to see tv and on youtube go candle wax dont work when they do not add enough heat
My cousin a hd mechanic taught me this to remove broken studs in old exhaust manifolds works like a charm never thought to try beeswax great tip
Fantastic. Thank you very much
Thank you Ernie Engineer!! I'm 44 years old and have been fixing my own vehicles my whole life! Tried beeswax on my seized o2 sensor and it broke loose! I had been spraying with penetrating oil, and using the air chisel but it didnt budge until the beeswax! Never too old to learn a new trick, and I wont forget this one!
Bees wax I'll have to look for that thanks y'all
Where do i buy beeswax?
The best way to get any stuck bolt loose is number one , heat it up good I'm talking orange hot. Two, take a garden hose and cool it as fast as you can , when its cold it will be next to finger tight , Works 100% of the time. Been turning wrenches for 25 years a old man taught me this trick . Best thing I ever learned in a shop. Its amazing how well it works.
A squeeze bottle fill with cold water will be a bit more manageable ! Thanks for the infro.
I really hope I don’t forget about this
What that also does is causes thermal expansion and contraction. We're talking thousands of an inch, but, you could cause warpage and damage. That being said. If all else fails, do what works to get er done
We called it heat and shock when I worked for a mining company. We had giant haul trucks with 1-7/8" lug studs, we'd heat the stubborn ones and hit with a hose that pumped ice water. Usually took one cycle and they'd come off. We always replaced the lug nuts but couldn't damage the studs, and no... we never experienced warpage.
Are you from Chicago? That's a pipefitter trick !
When you said it's going to be a "quick, to the point video" and I saw it was 8:41 long, I thought "Great, another jabberbox who likes to hear himself talk." but you were true to your word. The whole thing was packed with useful info and I appreciate that.
Awesome to hear you found it useful and thanks for your feedback man!
I've been a mechanic for 40 years you just taught me a few things thanks
Hey man that's great! I appreciate you dropping a comment also. I'm always learning new stuff from people's videos too
Right! Like hitting it w the compressed air to rattle that fitting.
@@ironworker5792 "rattle the fitting" Good way to put it!
At my first shop, an old BMW mechanic showed me the impact chisel technique on the wrench to free up rusted brake lines. I couldn't believe he saved it! We worked it back and forth very carefully and it took a while.
the mechanics up the road from me need to watch this there trying to charge me for a new cat assuming they won’t get the sensor off…..they haven’t even tried……iv been driving for 30 years and still yet to meet an honest mechanic……I need someone like you
Damn! Your video is so much better then the usual. No long preamble just straight to it, camera pointed at what your talking about, on point, to the point, good work!
Thanks man, I greatly appreciate your feedback. Yeah I try to jump right into it always.
YO DUDES, I'M self employed, retired Navy Mustang, whom uses the heck out of technology. I have had MANY stuck O2 senders and a variety of threaded fasteners. LOOK into using an INDUCTION HEATER for corrosion stuck threads. There are a few good ones out there and the results may really surprise you. In some cases you will have damaged threads, just chase them or if really gone, TIME-SERTS work really great. Carry On
Oh, I am preparing for what may the worst, and your mention of using induction heat may be a winner and safer. I may be trying a Ridgid RT-175 pipe soldering tool for this per for your comment if the worst starts to happen. ☺
Nice job on the video. You ran through several options quickly and were very clear on how and why. I'm never sure why people want to complain about the person making the video because they don't have a lift or the right tools. Very helpful, thanks for your time and all others with good tips!
Thanks Chris! I like the ideas, particularly the air-chisel-pickle-fork on the wrench: easier than the hammer swing. I'm a car restorer by trade, and engineer by education. All your observations on the use of lubricants are excellent.
I want to mention the trick I use for seized/corroded fasteners in-general: Since heating expands metal, and cooling contracts it, the goal is always to heat the outer portion while cooling the inner. As the gap between them grows, you want the penetrant/lubricant (everyone has their favorite: I like Kroil.) to get pulled into that gap. I use a propane torch to heat the nut/boss/bung. When I get the oil smoking, I use a can of office -duster, upside down, on the bolt/stud/sensor. (THIS IS POTENTIALLY HAZARDOUS! Upside-down, the office duster will emit liquid at cryogenic temperatures, similar to liquid nitrogen. Wear eye protection and long gloves!) Get the sensor frosty, and add your penetrant at the thread interface. NOW do everything Chris shows!
In some cases, you can win by reversing this idea: When bolts are broken off inside a blind hole, oil the threads in the hole to prevent adhesion. Then, use a center punch followed by a sharp drill tip to clean the center of the offending bolt fragment. (Don't drill it out, just prep a spot to start the weld.) Using a wire-feed welder, strike an arc on the bolt remnant, and fill the hole to the surface. Now hold a nut in place with a cheap wrench, and weld the inside of the nut to the previous weld. The bolt tries to expand, but is contained by the surrounding colder material, so it can only mold itself more uniformly to the hole (and thus decrease the pressure at the bound points). Hose everything down with penetrant, and take-five. When you come back, the previously glowing bolt fragment has cooled and contracted, by transferring it's heat to the surrounding material, which has now expanded. Chances are excellent you can put a wrench on the nut (now bolt-head) and turn the whole thing out in one piece. Sometimes, I have to repeat a couple times. At worst, I'm back to drilling it out, but I've annealed the metal by heating it and letting it cool slowly, so it drills easier. Win-win.
I'm subscribing, because there is no substitute for experience, and production mechanics like Chris get more experience in a week than I get in a year.
hmmm... @ cryogenic temperatures. well, working in a medical lab for 15 years and dealing directly with cryo freezers.... I would have to say you are a bit off. Super cold? Absolutely. Cryo freezer temps.? Not quite... it will cause frostbite quite quickly and yeah, if you are dumb enough to keep doing it you could lose a digit.... and there's nothing quite like a good annealing... but hey, good info for noobs.
Tnx. Very good.
Awesome thank you 😊
I have worked in the rust belt of western NY my entire life. I love the air hammer idea. Getting the penetrant to start working it's way into the threads is paramount. Additionally, great job on the video while you were on the clock.
An absolute master class on a common and difficult problem. There are a lot of videos on how to do this and that, but they never show you how to deal with the annoying things that inevitably go wrong. This is a very valuable video that will really help a lot of people.
Judging by the rust, I'm doubting if there will be another O2 sensor in that jeep's future.
lol true
Lol
This things barely rusty
@@ab2229 if you live in a state with inspection you wouldn't say that. Many shops would fail that.
As a wisconsinite I can tell you right now that a lot of that rust is superficial, where I live that is pretty nice. Frame looked pretty good lol.
I had a terrible experience with o2 sensors few months back, rounded the entire thing trying every trick I knew, I got it after a few weeks with penetration oil, blow torch, and vise grips/pipe wrench, I now have a lot a respect for people who have the patience to deal with these all the time
You can you a wheel nut removal
One trick an older tech taught me years ago with 02 sensors is tighten the old one a little bit until it makes a pop sound. They come out like that 95% of the time
@@FixIt1975 Yeah, but for that remaining 5%, you just cranked that on super tight, maybe stripping threads.
I'm currently in this position, but haven't used the pipe wrench yet
@Super Trucker! try it, the thing with the pipe wrench is the jaws will tighten the more force you give it, cheater bar will help too
Up here in the Great White North I've had to remove countless rusted fasteners but never heard of the air hammer technique. Great tip, Thanks
Dude!!! This video was a life saver! Just bought an 03 Durango with 250k on it. The rust on it is surprisingly minimal for a 21 year old Colorado truck, but those O2 sensors were stuck on. Less than five minutes of pounding on that box wrench with my hammer and the first one broke loose and spun out with zero galling!
Great techniques especially the last one.
I know that will work.Your last comment on taking your time and not getting in a hurry.(which is very inconvenient when customers are pressing to get their cars back) is key.Being in hurry with frozen bolts only causes more sorrow and requires a whole nother level of skill
Hey Chris , gotta respect a professional that admits to "rookie moves" , we all make''em , I once in a haste cut through some flooring in a VW with my grinder/cutter while repairing rust holes, after seeing a puddle on the ground realized I had cut through not one but two brake lines , didn't read through all the comments , hopefully not repeating , but one trick I use is to carefully tighten seized nuts bolts etc, a 16th to 32nd of a turn before loosening , supposedly stretching the threads and breaking the rust bond ,,, great video ...
You're absolutely right on the vibration with the rust penetrating oil.
Thank you brother. Well presented, and palatable for a new novice automotive DIY dude. Took me 37 years but videos like these are gold. Thank you.
the PB Blaster and back and forth worked like a charm! I Cut the wire and unscrewed it by HAND! Amazing. Thank You!
Wow! Dude I loved your delivery even on the clock! As a female who is mechanically inclined and currently working on a 95’Buick Regal Custom 4dr Sedan 3.1 I need ALL the details / experienced tricks or skills of removal and replacement . Because I swear thus far every single project has turned into a full blown nightmare. I buy the correct tools needed for a project and I have to stop to research and watch videos on
how to make it pass this situation to achieve final results without killing my body from straining. So as I prepare for the challenges in regards to O2 sensors 😢removals YOU ARE MY HERO! I will have everything ready in my removing. Well almost everything- if I could do it on a lift 🎉 time… thanks dude you rock gonna check out more of your stuff.😊
Another thing is after heating the bung is to shock it with some cold, non-flammable spray... carb cleaner, whatever to help break the rust weld.
Great video!
Instructions not clear, now I have a sword 🗡️..... 😒 thanks alot...
Instructions unclear, dick stuck in bung hole.
Isn't carb cleaner super flammable?
@@DaDaDo661 es. I think brake cleaner would be better
Thanks Chris,
I appreciate the tips, which applies to everything stuck. You communicate excellent, I do not have to be careful listening with my grandchildren present. Continue with honest, no-nonsense videos. They are appreciated.
No problem! Glad you found it to be a useful video
Your GoPro footage was just fine and your techniques are going to save someone a lot of heart ache.
Several years ago, I bought a cheap set of Chinese flare nut wrenches at Princess Auto (Harbor Freight in the US). They are thick and crude, pretty awful for actual brake lines etc. But they go up to 24 mm, and the 22 mm is a perfect fit for many O2 sensors. Being so thick, and providing contact on 5 flats, they work really well for this job. Honestly, it's about the only thing I have ever used them for, but it was still $8 well spent!
@Thomas Marshall
I don't think he means that literally. Princess Auto is sort of the Canadian equivalent. They even sell surplus stuff. Been in one many times and they have a catalogue they mail out
Thomas Marshall Princess Auto started in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada, with their first store, shortly after WWII, located on Princess Street.
I see your tool cart is very organized. This is characteristic of an outstanding Auto Mechanic. Keep at it the automotive world needs Great Mechanics!
Will do! Thanks
I always look at a barber or plumbers tools. The way he/she cares for them speaks volumes. This gentleman's tools are clean and organized. 🔨🔧🛠👍
As a Christian, I always want to take time out to thank professionals who freely share their expertise - thanks for helping to relieve a major headache - the video was concise and provided more than one solution - extremely insightful - thanks again.
O2 sensors are the least of that Jeeps problem lol
Yah NY wants the crusher business
Chrysler product rusting, no way! They should of never of been bailed out, been producing junk every since.
Considering the work hours and spare parts necessary, is it even worth fixing a car like this (the first one)? I mean i live in europe but the labour cost alone will already be more than the value of the car.
@@miked8227 our Jeeps are great. It's all in how you treat them. That Jeep has been in salt water obviously.
@@miked8227 Another fanboy, who knows NOTHING!
Good job on the video Chris. See the comment below about the anti seize. I was a mechanic for 25 years but now the technology requires the proper product for sensors. Good to have comments from folks who have experience and share info.
I'm a total rookie with car repair, but when I had a seized O2 sensor in my 2001 RX I used Royal Purple Maxfilm. It worked perfectly. There was so little space in the engine bay I couldn't really get a long wrench on it. I sprayed all three with the Maxfilm a couple of times, let it sit overnight, and they all came off with no issues.
Similar car, 01 sienna. You we’re fighting that sensor bank 1 sensor 1 wasn’t it smh lol
Thanks Bud! Doing battle with one, and looking to see what else to consider. Short, and too the point... you touch on what there is for options. Just what was needed.
On the cheap chinese socket, it takes a little more time but after you put the socket on the oxygen sensor use a hose clamp on the end of the socket to help keep it from spreading open. It might help
Great idea 👍👍👍👍👍
I have done this. Got it from some other yuptuber. Big help. Prevented socket from stripping hex.
Not sounding weird at all. This is exactly what I’ve been searching for. I have a 03 excursion v10 235k below average rust but Ford OE o2s doubtful original but old. No lift just driveway and It feels like it wants to break every time I put ass behind it so that pickle fork air hammer will do the trick THANK YOU!!
After using penetrating fluid, suggest getting a can of liquid butane lighter fluid, holding the can upside down and pressing nozzle against threads it to release liquid butane into the threads. The liquid butane will help carry the penetrating fluid deeper. It will also get the part very cold which has effect similar to using a torch but is contraction vs expansion.
Cool!! I’ll have to try that sometime.
I will try. Im not getting anywhere for months. I am afraid to mess up the bung
Excellent summary of the various techniques. I need to remove the O2 sensor on my 2014 Chevy Cruze because of the dredded P0420 code. Thank You for sharing your expertise!
Genius idea with the pickle fork, never thought of using an air hammer for that.
Yea works good
So glad I found this video- heat, oil, air chisel, repeat! The nasty O2 sensor on my 1988 OBS truck came right out!
If you have to go with a common combination wrench, use a 6 point box end wrench instead of a12 point, it will lessen your chances of rounding off the sensor. Never rotate the sensor with the wiring harness connected. You’ll put at least 5 full turns in and twist up your wiring to the point of possibly damaging it. One viewer mentioned letting the exhaust system warm up from running the engine. This is also very effective and will allow your penetrant to flow better into the threads.
Is there is enough length on The Wire there is no sense in going to disconnect it inside of the vehicle. I've changed several hundred sensors and never had an issue. Of course there is a point where you would do damage by twisting the wires to tight. I always make sure to count the rotations off and clock the sensor properly before reinstalling. but yes you're right that you should disconnect the sensor generally. It's just not always practical depending on where the location of the connector is
And yes six-point greater than 12 point for grip
As a side note, be careful not to use too much antisieze. If it gets on the sensor area it will contaminate it.
Don't even need too much antisieze either, that stuff gets everywhere lol
I love that splitter fork and air chisel idea! I'll be stealing that as my own idea in the shop soon enuf... Sometimes I need to wedge a prybar in ther and move the wrench with that, but that air chisel idea is great! I also like to let the cars run for 20 minutes and get that sucker hot hot hot for my A/F's and 02's, just like using the torch for 98% of em
Hey Chris, I really appreciated listening to Jen singing ! I would have commented at the time, but I could not remember who she reminded me of! And that was Cheryl Crowe!
Thank you for the tips! Don’t worry about the camera angles & noise, this is a great video going into my save later file for to view again.
Hello from north east Montana.
Awesome! Thank you and Hey from Bucks Co Pennsylvania!
I have a inductor it works great and if it's rounded I use a air chisel and walk it around have a blessed day today 🙏
Nice demo. I've heard good things about 50/50 acetone/transmission oil as a penetrant and have tried it with decent results.
Patience is definitely a virtue. I had to replace the sensor on the manifold of my GM 3.4.
The issue there is a complete lack of space for tools or fingers.
That stubby socket was the only way along with some U-joints and extensions. Some engines can be rocked forward after unbolting the wishbone. It actually made access worse.
Yea 50/50/ acetone/ trans fluid def works good! I learned that on Project Farms channel a while back
I heat cycled a couple of times with a map gas torch for soldering copper and it came right out. You DIY guys need to buy one. It does wonders for exhaust flange bolts also. Great video. 👍
The only guy I know that wished a part was seized more. Be careful knocking off that rust you won't have a car left to give back to the customer.
LOL, yeah I was definitely disappointed that it wasn't seized up like the other side. Would have made for a much better video. She definitely lost a few pounds while in the shop
That car does not look safe to drive.
......must be the salt on roads. but I also suspect the build quality of Jeep .
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow what state is that Jeep from to be that rotten In 12 years? I’ve got an 85 Jeep that doesn’t have any rust and just sold my 77 that was completely rust free and floors look brand new but are original.
@@1982MCI not sure what state he's in but northern Utah (Salt Lake City area) is horrible for the de-icer they use on the road that just completely destroys vehicles in just a few years. I'm a brake/suspension tech and have seen cars less than 5 years old that have rusted through the unibody to the point of being mechanically totaled even though they look fine from above.
*** pro tip... never buy a used car from Northern Utah lol
Omg never thought of hammer pickle fork on the wrench! Little sketch but low setting to brake rust... Genius!
There is a tool made by LTI Tools called "LT994 Shockit Socket". It is a 4 piece set that you use with your air hammer. Works great at removing sensors in confined areas and severely bound sensors. After the initial loosening, spray with penetrating oil and work it back and forth like you demonstrated in your video.
That LTI Brand, LT994 Shockit Socket, 4-pc Kit is kind-of expensive, for the weekend warrior, @ between $140.00 - $150.00. Yikes! But for someone that's doing this for a living, it might be a great investment.
@@namrednop LTI Brand is now part of Milton Industries. The kit is now available for about $40. Seems to work great in the video but I don’t have a large enough air compressor to use an air hammer 🙁
Good tips, I agree quality tools that don't spread are essential for this task. You can put hose clamp on the base of the socket, which helps to stop it spreading. Here in New Zealand we have annual safety inspections. For sure, this jeep would be off the road and to the wrecker for parts then the crusher with this amount of rust.
Excellent! Thanks for taking the time to do this video. About to do my sensor on my 08 hummer and expecting fun. Your methods will help me out a ton and probably save me a headache.
Awesome to hear you found the video helpful and I really appreciate you dropping a comment. Thank you!
Thank you so much I tried everything else but as soon as I did the air hammer it worked immediately thank you
I like the air hammer and wrench technic to loosen the o2!!! Thanks Chris
Yeah that's one of the best techniques ever In fact that was the whole point of this video but I figured I would go over some of the other techniques as well. Give it a try! Thanks
You’re essentially turning your box-end wrench into an impact driver. Brilliant!
On the long socket, cinch a hose clamp on the end, it will help it grab.
Or a vise grip type strap/chain wrench.
Good idea, I was wondering why mine was prying apart I was afraid to even turn it anymore lol.
Cut the wires and use a regular deep well socket.
When I tried the heat & wax trick to remove seized bolts, for me, the wax & heat did work but, I had just seconds to apply torque to the tool! Speed & quickness was the answer. I was changing a motor mount on a Ford focus with seized bolts!
Good tips! Must be nice working with all that room LOL! It's a little harder under a Jeep Grand Cherokee Hemi V8.
Thanks Alan. And yeah nice to have some room in especially if trying to shoot any decent video angles. ;)
The air hammer trick is great! I can't believe I'm 42 years old and haven't heard of or thought of that.
Heat the bung only but dont over heat it. It is .001 of an inch for every 100°f. I dont go more than maybe 250°f. If it doesn't move then, your almost guaranteed to be gulling the threads no matter what you do. Heat can be your best friend or it can be your worst enemy in these situations.
I've had some luck using heat with the MAP gas torch in the past. I'll have to get a pickle fork for my air hammer. That's pretty slick. Thanks for the tips!
Yeah a little heat goes a long way for sure! Soaking it and then using better Hammer with vibrations really does the trick though. At least for those one percenters that are really stubborn to get out. And no problem, I appreciate the comment!
Very informative. I just got a bank 1 sensor 1 code on my '04 TJ and was wondering if it was safe to use penetrant on the exhaust system without turning the Jeep into a rolling fire bomb! Thanks for all of the great info. Good video. Camera angles looked spot on to me.
Awesome to hear it was helpful. And yeah no fire hazard. Appreciate the feedback also
Kroil if you can get it and heat work real good
Rolling firebomb is part of Jeeps heritage.
Have an 05 Honda Element up here in Canada. Applied PB Blaster before starting and like you said it didn't get past the washer. I actually attached a 1/2in impact gun to the O2 sensor wrench (I have the space) and that broke it loose. I then sprayed WD40 on the exposed threads and used the impact gun the rest of the way (have to disconnect the wires first).
SWEET TECH MAN..filed and setting this up for my '05 T & C Limited
after trying most of these methods including the air chisel w/pickel fork, what ended up working for me was first breaking off top of o2 sensor with hammer so i could get 6 point socket on, then heating bung up to glowing red with oxy avetylene then immedately dousing with garden hose, came right off after with breaker bar and socket,....saw this on teryl fixs all lawnmower repair
Nice! Sounds like a good method! I forgot to mention about breaking the sensor to get a shallow socket on there. Ill have to try dousing in the future
I use copper seize on all exhaust work, seems to do better then regular grey anti seize.
You're right. It is better. They just happen only order the gray Antiseize at my work.
Chris that technique where your hitting the box wrench with a air hammer or hitting rusty nuts with the air hammer was new for me. Good idea.
Excellent video. I really appreciate you sharing your experiences and techniques.
Great video sir. To the point and good quality from that gopro.
Great tips and well explained with really clear video. Thanks a lot.
Just replaced stuck upstream O2 sensor on 2014 Escape. Used your vibration technique. Sprayed penitrating fluid on using cordless impact on lowest setting to vibrate it. Spryed a little more penitrating fluid. Waited 5 minutes set impact to next power level and it came right out.
Dude just wanted to say I really liked this video. Like, most mechanic channels are some dude with no personality but you kinda killed it. And I loved the go pro angle. Usually people are holding phones in awkward places and it’s not good but this was kind of thing everybody should be doing. Your personality is cool and it was just a good video. I would watch the sh!t out of a channel that was all videos like this 👊🏻👊🏻
Hey Josh thanks so much for the comment and feedback. Really appreciate you checking the video out. Thanks man!
I've got a 1989 Chevy I fixed up and it runs good for the most part. But the fuel economy isn't great and the exhaust smells like gas, especially when it's cold. I haven't changed the oxygen sensor yet and was going to hold off until it's warmer, but will do it this weekend and your video helps me be better prepared. This sensor may be really old. No clue 🤔
Pronounced "Ford Tec Make You Loco !!! " Another Great RUclips Poster!
Haha yea i def butchered his name
Did all the steps years ago on 04 hemi durango (ex salty beachtown county vehicle) and still had “worse case scenario”. Now i own a mini-ductor! 👍
A trick that always worked for me is; heating up seized bolt or sensor really hot, cool the area down with Brake oil drops; because as the brake oil cools down the area, the air inside the threads will create a vacuum and suck the brake oil inside. It works every time.
Thank you for the tips, I had an O2 sensor initially break loose but then wouldn't go any further. Your back-and-forth method while adding penetrant would perfect.
I actually use anti-seize all the time on mold components that I'm drilling/tapping when I absolutely can not break a tap/drill bit.
The genius take home for me was spraying the O2 sensors with rust penetrating spray, in my case WD40. I had 4 sensors on a 2012 Jeep Wrangler and the downstream sensor on the passenger side was NOT budging. I soaked all 4 and ran the engine until it was hot. I let it cool and repeated this 3 times and then let it set over night. ALL 4 broke free the next day. THANKS for a great tip, you probably saved me around $600 in mechanic labor!
Don't remove the sensor until you've tested so you don't take a chance of ruining it unless you're replacing them all anyways. Use OEM when possible on O2 sensors as it's been shown that aftermarket isn't always the answer.
Changed one in my 15 equinox 2.4 did it from below with extensions and the 1/2 air gun it was brutally tight. It started to rotate tried going back and forth but eventually had to just keep the air gun rapping until it was out the internals of the sensor broke off inside the cat, and it did some thread damage but overall the new one threaded in and l just tightened it with a 7/8 box end l grinded so l could slide over the wires it did go in a it did tighten right up so really happy left the internal pieces that broke off inside the cat probably sitting on the cat screen 🤣but all good no service light and pulling 8 liters to 100 k. On fuel monitor improvements in fuel economy was over 15%! I'm getting exactly what gm indicates I should be actually gm said 8.2 liters for 100 kilometers km at 8 liters for 100 kilometers 👍
Great video. Real good vocal description of everything too.
Fantastic tips my friend. I used a regular 7/8 wrench and did the spray then twist back and forth method.
Used some PB blaster as my spray. Worked like a charm. Thank you!
Tremendously useful video. Wish I had watched this before replacing my O2 sensor last weekend!
as a forty- plus year survivor of the exhaust industry; Let me share with you a tip I learned a long time ago. You will be sceptic at first, but give it a try- You will be AMAZED! Here goes; the tip is -BRAKE FLUID! That's right- brake fluid! Simply soak the sensor with a little brake fluid, let it sit a few, then work it back and forth. VIOLA! It really is like magic! Give it a try- You will be amazed!
Thanks for the tip. Less messy than Transmission Fluid and Acetone combo.
Try some plain ole green anti freeze. Brake fluid works but if you pour it on something heated with a flame and it steams, fumes will knock you down.
The previously mentioned ATF and acetone or my go to: Kroil. Otherwise, heat and vibration.
RED X and an acetylene torch,
I'm Johnny Muffler I have 40 plus years of doing exhaust work Getting a O2 Sensor out I mostly use a pipe wrench and a pipe on the end If I'm changing the exhaust I cut the pipe close to the sensor and spray pb blast from the inside of the sensor as well as a little on the outside This helps the threads from locking up and stripping them If you have one that's rusted to no end use carb cleaner 2 plus 2 on the outside and than freeze out This will pemastrate thru the rust better than anything The carb cleaner burns the rust away the freeze off is the best in a rusted situation If you have to use heat only heat up half of the area around the O2 sensor This prevents the threads from stripping due to the heat I hope this helps and Goodluck as always Johnny Muffler No Muff too Tuff
Great content , man I don’t miss being a flat rate tec this just reminded me of that lol
Thanks Greg. And yeah I hope to get into and different industry one of these days. Automotive is not great
I like watching these videos too because I was a flat rate tech for 32 years. Can always pickup a few good ideas. I also don't miss it.
@@maxwellcrazycat9204 yes flat rate is one of the biggest scams out there work real hard real fast oh and don’t forget to pay for your own tools and break your body down but the pay is oh so great.... not...
Wow… an O2 sensor shouldn’t be the priority for that jeep owner.. dude you have balls to even get under it .. not any steel in that frame left.. that must have been driven in the ocean.. I grew up in the rust belt and I’ve never seen an undercarriage that rotted out for a vehicle that isn’t that old.. great tips and yeah don’t cheap out with Chinese sockets.. I learned that from experience on those sensors.. snap on, Matco or Mac
Summed up. Lube. Vibration. Time. Patience. Roger that 👍
Good hints Chris, I did one of mine on the ground a 95 s10 blazer w/300k and lots of rust. Sprayed a couple of days w/pb and drove commuting to work. Then when hot put a snap on open end on it and it squeaked out.
I think passing a safety inspection is a bigger worry for that Jeep.
what is an "safety inspection"? lol
@@colefisch931 In Missouri where I live your car needs an inspection to renew your license to be sure it's road worthy so you're hot a danger to others because of bad tires brakes no lights etc.
That trick with the air hammer and ball joint fork was great, my o2 sensor was rusted badly (car was 7 years old). oxygen & actylene torch heat and it was still hard to get out, came Close to cutting the bung out and welding a new one in. 05 Monte Carlo.
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*O2 THREAD CHASER: amzn.to/3DBL6YB
In this video I used Permatex aluminum anti-seize paste however if you get copper paste I find it to be much better. Only reason I use the aluminum stuff is because that's all they get at my work.
Ford tech mak a what? lol what's that link?
Great video, had no idea you were a mechanic!
@@austinkelley5614 fordtechmakuloco. I will plug a link to his channel in the description. Great guy. I'm definitely saying his name wrong though im sure! And yea, I mechanic. For about the last 15 years
Pyrex
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow where do you live that an 09 jeep is that rusted out? Your accent sounds like mine, eastern PA or south Jersey
@@FixIt1975 yeah you guessed it right, I'm in Bucks County PA
Thank you, thank you for this video, Chris! You taught me a few new tricks! Specially the one with the chisel-pickle-fork! Keep them coming!
I need to replace my O2 sensor on my 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis. Usually I will use PB Blaster to loosen up the threads.
The PB blaster is the best, and the way to go.
I USED to go to PBlaster whenever I had to loosen a nut or bolt but after running into fasteners that wouldn't budge with PBlaster, I found an age-old formula that does the job much better: 50% ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) and 50% acetone. MUCH better than anything else I've tried.
I shared this tip with a few friends that had similar troubles removing stuck bolts and they totally agree.
Give it a try. Good luck.
Love that air hammer 'hack'!! Gonna throw that one in my toolbox for future use! Thanks!
Nice air hammer tip!
Yeah man air hammer works wonders for sure!
Hey man i had a stuck o2sensor,
I used your air hammer trick and it came right off !! it was amazing
I wish I would have thought of that but now i know thanks
Awesome to hear that it helped you get it off!
In Rust country. The fire wrench and the air hammer are your friends.
thanks Chris, I usually do the spray a lot with really great penetrant and do the week or two vibration drive. In addition, after the soak, I try to put a tiny extra Tighten if really stuck and I use a 1/2" CP air impact on everything, except dash bulbs. I have extensions and wobbly sockets that allow me to take parts off from across the yard but remember every extension reduces the amount of torque delivered due to the twist of the metal and loss of power transfer through the steel, good steel, bad or soft steel will flex too much. I use 6 point socket or wrench on stubborn pieces and stud removers for items that will be replaced, take care, and remember; gloves, seat covers, floor protectors and steering wheel covers. You do not want anyone to know you have been there, and leaning on the paper thin 'beer can' fenders is good if you plan on opening a body shop, stuntgirl
I learned all that the first time I had to replace one. Chopping the wires and using a regular socket works.Those split sockets are only good for installing, not removing. Galling the threads then thinking the new O2 will fix it, nope. It just ruins the new sensor.
Repair with a plug chaser works most of the times
You are absolutely right, penetrator will not get in until you crack the seal. If it goes tight, lube it and screw it back in, in-out, in-out and slowly work it out.