These are the Parts and Tools I recommend: High Intensity Map Torch- amzn.to/2keOCBr Quality Rust Penetrant- amzn.to/2j91pEy Oxygen Sensor Sockets: Full Height- amzn.to/2ySK1cB Low Profile- amzn.to/2kKoy0a Oxygen Sensor Thread Chase(if needed)- amzn.to/2B93CeC
I would normally agree that is why my sockets are 6 point. In this situation though a 12 point is fine, in 15 years working the salt belt it has never rounded a one. Plus in tight areas like where most o2 sensors are you want the flexibility of a 12 point to be able to position it easier in the small space you have for the swing.
Nice to see someone actually showing what a miserable and delicate chore this is. Way too many people posting videos for O2 sensors where they've already removed it and make it sound super easy.
Wow, it worked perfectly. I'd been trying to break the sensor loose for 3 days. Pb blaster, liquid wrench, wd40. No luck, . I was a little scared to put a torch to it but I watched your video and followed your directions. Amazing, after about two attempts it finally broke loose. Then I did the back and forth with the wrench, spaying a little blaster at a time. Needless to say it worked great. Thanks so much for posting this video. Really helped me a lot. I got a lot accomplish today thanks to your video. 👍👍
What the old timers used to call “putting the English on it”. Sometime you need technique, not brute force. Most have to break something and spend money to learn that lesson.
@@apachebill Ahmed, the Car Care Nut recommends loosening the Sensor as far as it goes, rock it back and forth, soak threads with BRAKE FLUID for 5 minutes, and remove with a 22 mm box wrench (if you've got the room) or conventional O2 Senor socket. Good Luck!
I anti-seize ALL exhaust part threads (especially manifold studs) because dry threads beg for moisture intrusion during heat cycles and subsequent corrosion. I've removed parts I anti-seized thirty years ago with no problem.
First class lesson with great footage. Any rookie mistakes could very well turn this job into a nightmare. Attention to the details is what sets you apart.
I tried penetrant and 4 different specialized wrenches with extensions- all that did was give me sore hands and start to round the bolt... then I finally decided to give a propane torch a go. Heated it for around a minute on full blast then slapped on a normal wrench and it turned like butter!!! This was on an upstream one rather than a downstream, but it worked just the same!
Did it, worked great. Heat, box wrench and hammer. Unfortunately I hit my fingers a couple times. Sensors was 24 years old and I tried many times to get it out. Following your instructions I got it out in under 20 minutes
Thanks for the tips, got my O2 sensor out by being patient and methodical. Used a combination of penetrating fluid, map gas torch, and a snipe on the end of the wrench. Maintained slow removal and penetrating fluid after the initial breaking of the threads.
Fantastic. I had almost rounded the sensor until watching this. After using penetrant a couple of times, cutting the wires on the sensor and then putting the round 22mm wrench on, it popped right out. Thanks a lot man!!
I barely have room under my car when jacked up. Spraying didn't seem to be helping nor was using a hammer. I was about to break out the impact, but searched RUclips first. Glad I found your video. I ended up using both feet to break it loose. One suggestion I'd make is to not cut the wire until you break it loose. Once broken loose, then snip the wires.
Yea mine just gonna stay in there forever. Tried getting it out all day with torch, penetrating oil, 02 sensor special socket, breaker bar. Nothing will work won’t budge even a little. I’m loosing my mind.
changed my 3.5 ecoboost bank 1 last week. sprayed, wrenched, MAPP gas the whole works, wouldn't budge and gave up after a couple hours. Sprayed it for overnight with PB blaster. Next day, gave it a go cold and hit the wrench with a hammer a few times. It turned out by hand like magic. Couldn't believe it
Big believer in using heat as well! When it's got a nice glow I spray it again with the penetrant. It's usually not flammable but you got to be careful. I swear it'll wick in like solder and flux at that point, plus I think it thermal shocks it too to help it break free. Good vid though! Just be patient is the whole trick I think though too.
This way looks like it will work but takes a lot of time. From working at an exhaust shop a few years ago in Michigan the way we would do it is this way. Using an O2 sensor socket that wont stretch open (Blue Point YA9375B or the Schley 93750A are good options) break it lose with no heat or oil using a long 1/2 ratchet or breaker bar. If the threads are cross threaded after removal use an actual 18x1.5mm tap clean the bung hole. install with just a touch of copper anti-seize on the threads and hand tighten with an open end wrench as tight as you would an oil drain plug. Those sockets I listed were great, I never had an issue with them rounding the nut part of the sensor or stretching open even with a cheater bar. we would also not use heat because the thread from the sensor would get pulled off and and stay with the bung. Either way a 18x1.5 tap will clean it out fine.
werealeyes heating it up doesn’t just make it easier to remove from the exhaust, it helps prevent breaking anything from applying too much stress on the parts. If all you’re doing is replacing a bad sensor the last thing you want it to snap the threads off the pipe. Especially with guys like me who are doing this off their back in their driveway. Lol
@@austincollier14 , yep, that "removing it whilst on the ground with your arms above your head" adds a new level of "difficulty" to the job. Most of the guys in these vids have the vehicle on a lift. Much easier to leverage the application of force. And whilst I'm not the "pro mechanic" and there are those "exceptions", the point of applying heat is to expand the metals. We know that metals expand when heated and contract when cooled. I've witnessed time and again countless fasteners/sensors etc., being successfully removed simply by applying the right amount of heat.
I have a 1997 F-150, I have a failed Bank 1 sensor 2. I got up under my truck, the original sensor almost looks new ?? Hope I don't too much problem. great info
You have provided an excellent tutorial. Thank you. Spraying it with PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or other rust penetrent after you have it broke loose will help. Tapping a seized sensor can help the penetrating oil seep in. Multiple heat cycles are a big help to break the rust bond. I suggest using a 6 point box wrench instead of a 12 point. Less chance of rounding off the nut.
You obviously have never removed an oxygen sensor in a tight place. There is a reason why I do what I do. Oh and BTW it is much harder to round the hex at this size so even with a 12 point you are ok.
just replace 4 O2 sensors on my Durango what i did is break the pole and leave the nut intact, put a small 7/8 with my breaker bar, add some w40 and done in no time, took me more time conneting the harness back to the corresponding connector
Hey buddy, I replaced one of the excess O2 sensors on my 12 f150. Wanted to say a big thanks for the videos. You have aided in my truck getting a new transfer case electric motor, thermostat, fuel level switch,, fixing coolant leaks (bad O rings), and now the O2 sensor. Thanks again!
Thanks, I've been working on my Xterra O2's and I used an impact wrench and it totally stripped out the threads. Good news was I had a rethread that did the job. I won't do that again. Thanks for the helpful tips
I rarely leave a comment on RUclips, i would like to let you know, your video was so helpful and right on the money, heating and DW40 is the way, take your time and it will come off, i even stripped mine and still works, again thanks for sharing and keep up the good work!.
Great video, I've been there numerous times, I have also found once it starts to move after heating use a enough force to retighten and untighten with some penetrating oil, to break up the rust in the threads. When refitting use a specific high temp anti seize grease or similar (not the cheap stuff) if not fitted already to the sensor.
Good advice, I had the same problem on a 1997 Maxima, thought I could get it off with a wrench, but had to get it torched at a local mechanic shop and once it got beet red hot, loosen it and tighten it back on before totally removing it so you don’t damage the weakened threads.
@@FordTechMakuloco 04 F150 5.4 3V just changed Bank 2 Driver side sensor 2 on outlet of convertor. Texton 47749 7/8 socket fit perfect on downstream Bank2. Just enough room to glide 3/8 ratchet with a "socket and extension as a make shift cheater bar" on end of ratchet. Soaked in PB blaster about 7 applications in 20hour period threaded out by hand the moment it broke free; no torch needed. Thanks for all your videos Sir! It was the original 02 sensor rusted in goooood. Fixed P0430 code!
I've gotten a few tough ones out by cutting the whole body of the sensor off with a hacksaw or Sawsall. You make the cut right down near the hex nut. Then heat and lube it and use a regular 6 point socket and a long breaker bar. This technique also works on things like power steering lines and brake hose ends. You cut the line off and then you can put a regular 6 point socket on the hex nut and use a breaker bar to turn it. In really tight spaces use just a hacksaw blade and wear a glove. The soft aluminum lines are very easy to cut. I ALWAYS use this method exclusively to remove power steering lines from power steering racks and pumps. After removal be sure to wash out the holes with some spray to remove any metal chips left over from cutting the line.
Just the video I needed I got one replaced myself the rest were rusted and wires were spliced and reconnected where the previous owner tried to replace and couldn't break them loose I can't wait to see how it runs with all new ones!
Another great video Brian. I bought the O2 sensor for the wrong bank last year and will be installing both sensors for my 05 Escape in the spring when the weather is warmer. The timing for this video was perfect.
Even better, I was planning on changing mine (on a Jeep ZJ) today, but ran out of time so sometime this week. Unfortunately, this was the exact plan I was going to go for, and didn't add anything extra to what I already know. Working on cars in the salt belt you learn to deal with stuck everything.
Sounds good doesn't it. Penetrating oil overnight 2 ft breaker bar penetrating oil, heat 1/2" impact wrench didn't work, so I had to cut the exhaust off, now I have to weld in a new pipe
I prefer to remove the entire body of the O2 with an air hammer/chisel (after spraying with penetrant). That allows the use of a 6-point socket, which reduces the chance of rounding the hex. All the great advice you've provided follows that step, as necessary. The vibration from the air hammer sometimes works the penetrant in enough to make it easier. The body doesn't break off easily.
Thank you sir, I would have messed getting o2 sensor off big time. Heat is a wonderful technique. Thank you again for your time and effort doing these videos. Brilliant job. Best Regards Colin
Before replacing with a new 02 sensor, I keep a 12 ga shotgun bronze (the steel bristle work best but are hard to find) bristle bore cleaning brush from Walmart in my box, and I run that through the threads a few times before spraying something on them to clean the junk out. These work great and cost only a couple bucks, so they are cheap to replace compared to the expensive parts store round brushes.
I did this on a 2006 Toyota Sienna. Used open side of 22 mm long wrench (closed side seemed to be stripping). Used PB Blaster and then WD40 and the WD40 seemed to work better. Kept working it back and forth. It was seized on there real good. Got it off. Took my time. Took lots of breaks and used a lot of solvent. Worked it back and forth. The threads of the sensor were stripped when I got done but the threads on the female side were OK. There was some metal stuck to the threads on the female side. Applied generous amount of gunk from the Denso new sensor. Hand threaded then used open wrench. Cleared the codes. So far so good. The beer tastes extra good now.
I use DEEP CREEP which is non flammable with a propane torch and an oxygen sensor case hardened socket. I always use a six point socket or wrench never a twelve point, like you show in the video. If it is really stubborn I use my air hammer attached to a six point hex case hardened socket and adapter that fits onto my air hammer with heat and that will get it out without any damage to the threads. You just lightly trigger the air hammer with short bursts to jar the sensor loose. I never tried the candle wax trick on oxygen sensors, but I am sure it would work to. Hope this tip helps others out too. Great video though thanks for sharing it.
This video is very helpful.... I just changed the O@ sensors on my E350 XLT Van and the one sensor on the driver side of the engine was not breaking loose. Took a torch and just heated the flange that the sensor was screwed onto just a little bit and with a little bit of effort, the sensor broke loose. OVERALL it was very easy to change the sensors out. I got lucky because I have heard that sometimes these sensors are an outright BEAR to get them changed out.
Thanks so much! I tried a flare nut wrench and it rounded it slightly. Got scared I'd round it off and was about to quit when I saw your video. Had it off in 5 min.
Thanks so much, I have a Ford Focus and I went out and got an O2 sensor wrench/socket and was surprised it wouldn't budge despite torquing on it with my 1/2 ratchet. Hesitated to use penetrating oil since it is a sensor, so decided to consult YT and found your video. I will be trying the heat now after watching. Thanks!
Great video - it saved me some serious grief and dollars. On my two upstream sensor I took my 06 F150 to Tuffy's Auto Repair in Toledo, Ohio and had them replaced there. They did it for $40.00 each. The garage had a lift, which was everything because I would of had to do the job laying on my back in the drive wqy and could not get to the left front O2 sensor connector. On the downstream side the left O2 sensor gave me a little bit of trouble but came out okay. The right sensor was a different story. On my first go around with it it bound up on me. Instead of doing it Brian's way, I muscled the sensor and it locked up ( I watched this video after I did this). Before I would do any more damage to the sensor I took my truck to Tuff's to see if they could do the job, since they did the two upstream ones - price was a bit higher - $80.00. They put the truck on the rack and heated up the sensor and tried giving the sensor a good pull. In a couple of minutes they came back to me and said that it was not going to budged and that would have to destroy the sensor and the catalytic converter which was going to cost some serious dollars (1500 or so). They asked me if I wanted them to continue. I said no. They did not charge me for trying and not doing any work per say. From Tuffys I went to my local Ford Dealer and made an appointment to have the sensor removed $97.50 without any extra). This was scheduled for tomorrow, September 24, 2018. After watching this video and a couple of other videos I decided I owed it to myself to try removing this sensor one more time. I prepared myself to tackle this in a couple of different ways. On my 06 F150 the heat shield divides the space in half between the converter and the transmission, making getting suitable tools in place difficult. The first go around I used the "crow foot socket with the flex handle" and started to round a couple hex points. The tools I got together for this time where: 22 MM deep well split socket with the 1" hex head (1/4" drive). 22 MM combination wrench. 1 " combination wrench. Pipe wrench. Large vise grip. Cheater pipe. Portable torch. Tread chaser. WD40 Rust Breaker. I did not cut the wires as Brian indicates in the video, reason being is if I was unsuccessful in getting the sensor out I was still going to have to get my truck to the Ford Dealer. My truck is fairly high off the ground, but I jacked it up giving myself as much height as I felt comfortable with. After crawling under the truck. I put the deep well socket in place. Once this is in place there is no room to put a 1/4" drive breaker bar or ratchet in place. There is just enough room to get the 1" combination wrench box end on. The only amount of room to work the wrench is from about half way up along the side of the transmission to the bottom of the floor pan. Working with Brian's methodology, since the sensor was already bound up in the removal direction. I took the wrench to the tightening direction, pulling a little at a time. I soaked in as much penetrating oil as I could. I started working the wrench/ socket between tightening and loosening the sensor a small bit at a time. For at least 15 - 20 minutes it felt like I wasn't going anywhere with it so I was going through my thoughts as to what to try next, utilizing the pipe wrench or the vise grips and cheater on the socket doing what I was presently doing with the wrench. As I continued with my motions the tightening and loosening sequence started to show some movement. I shot some more oil at the sensor and continued with what I was doing For the next 45 minutes or so I continued this until I was able to back the sensor out of it's threads. The unit would not come out and for a bit of more time I kept trying to bring it all the way out, no success. I was beginning to feel that I stripped the threads. I finally decided to angle the unit a bit in different position to where the unit would bite a bit, once I got a bite,, I loosened the the unit some more with the 22MM wrench (socket is removed) and was finally able to back the sensor out. I inserted the thread chaser in the hole and chased the threads, cleaning them up. Once the threads were chased in the converter the threads felt not to be stripped. I inserted the new sensor, tightened it down and plugged it in. Success and done. The sensor that I removed had a metal buildup ring around it that would not let it get past the threads in the converter. It gives a person the illusion that the threads are stripped. I did this cold without any torch heat. I installed Bosch Oxygen Sensors rather than Motorcraft/ Ford. Bosch invented the first oxygen sensors.
I personally would've stuck with OEM on the 02 sensors. Just FYI the downstream 02 sensors are not necessary for the drivability of the vehicle, there are just for emissions. They meter the air after the cat to make sure it's doing its job right.
25 years in the business and i gound used brake fluid is the best lubricant for removing o2 sensor. Brake fluid will prevent galling the threads, its really slimy. I used this trick nearly every time. Heat is my last option.
For removing stuck O2 sensor easily, I used 3-in-one PENETRANT in orange n black plastic container. Wait 30 minutes after applying it, it come off so easily.
Rather than cutting the wires, I get out my Sawzall and cut off the sensor leaving the hex part. A regular 1/2" drive socket with a breaker bar will remove it.
don't use too much torque, it's a bad idea, use heat like he did or if you don't have a torch start your car and let get a little hot (that's how I got mine out) It would not budge when the car was cold.
This is how you do it in my experience. Nice video! Too many people rush and break or strip threads. I'll start soaking with penetrant days ahead and repeat the following days if I think I'm gonna have a problem, then start heating with mapp gas.
You could also 'sacrifice' a box end wrench by cutting a slot in it to fit over the sensor wires. Also wrap 'wick' around the sensor where the threads are and soak it for as long as possible. Keep it soaked with a penatrating fluid. The thick seam of men's underwear will make a good wick. This way you can remove the sensor to remove the built up carbon that might be misleading the computer. Thank you for the video.
Best advice on breaking loose my rusty 1992 GMC Oxygen sensor. WD40 wouldn't cut it. Propane torch worked wonders first time. Save me time and money doing it myself. Subbed.
Hi, I just wanted to thank you for your tips on not damaging the threads. I pulled mine today and was very careful; threads intact. U da Man! Best, John
Haha how about the driver side 02 on a lincoln town car, it's in the manifold only way you can get a wrench on it is by removing the steering and they're always seized in there 😅
Mine was so easy to remove compared. I didn’t heat it up I just used an actual 7/8 O2 sensor socket (full socket with slot) and a breaker bar. Mine was removable by hand after it broke free.
Before putting in the new sensor I allways chase the treads. You can use the old sensor for that by making a few slits in the lenght of the sensortreads with a anglegrinder. It work out perfect for me.
I found that brake fluid works pretty well for rusted lug nuts, and it takes quite high temperature, and is really thin, so that it wicks into the threads pretty well... just a thought
Bank 1 O2 sensor just went out so will attempt this next week or so. It's winter and not looking forward to laying on a cold, dirty garage floor. Will take it to a local shop that rents out lift bays and get it off in the comfort of a warm enclosure.
GR8T vantage point for the CAM 👍😎 I'm just imagining that one in a inaccessible location. You wonder why there isn't a different attachment method. It just madness. Thank you for such a great example. Cheers! ❤
Old comment but Liquid Wrench! Project farm tested penetrating oils. Best was making your own mix of 50/50 atf/acetone but liquid wrench was a close second. Pb was like 5th.
thanks so much! did it the way you showed in the video and the bad O2 in my 2006 honda accord came right out. Just as a safety measure make sure you wear gloves or let things cool off for about an hour I made the mistake of grabbing the box end side of the wrench after 15minutes and it was still piping hot. I should mention that it all just took me 10 minutes it doesn't take long at all.
Jeep Liberty here, I just had a mechanic charge me $180 labor to remove 2 of mine that died and were rusted in and it only took them 30 minutes. And I paid for the new sensors too on top of that! Thats $360/hr. Just because they were impossible to get to and he had the right tool. I feel like a complete fool, but at least my car is running right now.
Nice to see the struggle. That's what most of us need to see so we know what we're in for. Of course the finished product at the end is nice to. Good explanations, good visual and way to show the work. I watched another where the guy had pre-broken the sensors loose. Not as useful. Also nice explanation to the comment above as to why you used a 12 point wrench instead of a 6 point. Understandable in tight spots.
I just did 2013 f150 bank 1 sensor 1 removed passenger wheel and fender liner heated with torch and cut a 7/8 wrench in half and used a long pipe for leverage when it popped I busted my finger and let me tell you the pain never felt so good. Triumphant even.
Good method. Use Aerocroil and let it soak for a while. I had an upstream O2 break free then jam and get stuck fast. Could re-tighten but it would not budge beyond 3/4 turn loose. PB Blaster nor WD40 helped. A squirt of Aerocroil and 45min later it came right out! A thread had broken off the sensor and that's why it would't back out. No bung damage thanks to the Aerocroil!
I’m watching this because I’m replacing an O2 sensor on my 2018 F150. Got a whopping 6 years out it. Modern F150’s have lots of problems. I drove. Dodge Ram for 25 years. Regret buying this F150.
Absolutely love this video. I have often thought about the O2 censor even way back when I owned a 1982 Cutlass Supreme back in the day, which tripped a code. BUT if my truck is not throwing a code should I still change the O2 censor? Do they still go bad slightly, or only work at say 50% efficeincy and no one know about it? Does my truck signal when it truly needs to be replaced? They are still original to the 2005 F150 with 319,000 miles on it. Or do I change them because they are so old that they have to be bad by now regardless of tripped code or not?
Auto parts store recommended Blaster Penetrating Catalyst as a penetrant. Worked well for me, but my sensor was not rusted. I sprayed the penetrant on the day before I did the job.
Thanks so much for taking the time to shoot this, it was extremely helpful to this novice. I didn’t need heat, but being patient, tapping with a hammer, and your technique of back, and forth was key to getting this damn thing out.
Want to say thank you for all the great videos you post here. Thank you for your service in the Marine Corps and wishing you and your family a safe and blessed Christmas .
Well I don't have a Ford I'm working on a a German car but other than that I did like your Technique I guess I was going the wrong way when I was removing mine so I stopped and try to find Solutions before I tackle it again thank you again nice video it was explained perfectly
I had a check engine light on my 01 Ford Mustang GT... After a scan the codes leaded to the 02 sensors... Lifted the car and found out all my oxygen sensor wires had been cut and they also had been welded.... I needed to weld bungs back in cause the original threads where beyond shot... What a job that was to replace... I put Bosch oxygen sensors and no more check engine lights.
I have a 2015 3.5 T, passenger side B1S1 needs replacing, I am not able to disconnect the sensor from the harness. None of the videos I’ve watched including yours 0:13 fails to show how to get the male sensor out of the female vehicle harness. At this point I may have already damaged the connector. Theres no red lock key or anything else. Also, the sensor itself will come out ok, it’s just the damn connector.
Thanks for posting. I was in a bind to get these done before winter in Ohio and only had small windows of time with outside temps high enough for the torch to burn. For guys laying on your back in the gravel or on the cold ground, it can be done. Forget the special sockets. Cut the wires. Torch, lube, 7/8 wrench. Repeat. I did mine on an 06 5.4 4x4 for about 6 cycles before it cracked. On the 4x4's, there is 0 turn radius and the job is so much more difficult. You can barely get the wrench angled at all for sensor 1's but after a few geometry refreshers, it is possible.
If the tailpipe is old and rusted, the heat ends up putting a hole in the pipe. I just use WD-40, let it set, spray again and use a cheater bar. Excellent photography and explanation, thanks for the video.
So in my case a 2011 dodge caliber 2.0 SE Upper bank 1 faulty O2 sensor. Original sensor..should i run my engine and let the manifold heat up or should i remove it cold..its 32 degrees outside currently. Thankfully i can access it from the top. My local garage wants anywhere from $175.00 to $260.00 (O2 sensor costs $50) I can understand these prices if its one like this videos. Yet he did it in real time in under 15 min. So i will try and see if mine will budge if not, than off to the garage. Nice video, thank you. I do wish you'd shown how to unclip the connection.
This way worked for me today on 2002 chevy impala 3.8 downstream o2 sensor blue torch full blast and then wrench and hit with hammer and I got the wrench over connector by putting the tab in the box end of wrench first n it's tight fit but it does go over the female end and last thing I WAS ON MY BACK IN MY DIRT PARKING IT MY APARTMENT.
I have used a torch to get them out a few times, but i heat the pipe more than the o2 sensor. That expands the female threads and not so much the o2 sensors threads....if you heat them both up the same, both male and female threads will expand at almost the same rate.
You sir have patients as I was watching this all I wanted to do was to force that wrench. So this was helpful and enlightening I have found that I am not this guy!!!
These are the Parts and Tools I recommend:
High Intensity Map Torch-
amzn.to/2keOCBr
Quality Rust Penetrant-
amzn.to/2j91pEy
Oxygen Sensor Sockets:
Full Height-
amzn.to/2ySK1cB
Low Profile-
amzn.to/2kKoy0a
Oxygen Sensor Thread Chase(if needed)-
amzn.to/2B93CeC
I was just going to post the Thread Chaser. Makes the new one go in like butter.
I would only recommend to use a 6 point wrench to decrease any chance of stripping the O2 sensor.
I would normally agree that is why my sockets are 6 point. In this situation though a 12 point is fine, in 15 years working the salt belt it has never rounded a one. Plus in tight areas like where most o2 sensors are you want the flexibility of a 12 point to be able to position it easier in the small space you have for the swing.
FordTechMakuloco have you seen or used the bolt buster tool?, It is used for stuff like this
No
Nice to see someone actually showing what a miserable and delicate chore this is. Way too many people posting videos for O2 sensors where they've already removed it and make it sound super easy.
2:05 watch the wiggle
@@88dfletcher it's the tool wiggling not the o2 sensor
Wow, it worked perfectly. I'd been trying to break the sensor loose for 3 days. Pb blaster, liquid wrench, wd40. No luck, . I was a little scared to put a torch to it but I watched your video and followed your directions. Amazing, after about two attempts it finally broke loose. Then I did the back and forth with the wrench, spaying a little blaster at a time.
Needless to say it worked great. Thanks so much for posting this video. Really helped me a lot. I got a lot accomplish today thanks to your video. 👍👍
Use brake fluid as your lube!
What the old timers used to call “putting the English on it”. Sometime you need technique, not brute force. Most have to break something and spend money to learn that lesson.
@@apachebill Ahmed, the Car Care Nut recommends loosening the Sensor as far as it goes, rock it back and forth, soak threads with BRAKE FLUID for 5 minutes, and remove with a 22 mm box wrench (if you've got the room) or conventional O2 Senor socket. Good Luck!
I use pb blaster all of the time on rusty parts . If that don’t work heat always does
I watched about a dozen videos on removing oxygen sensors, and this was the BEST VIDEO I found. Excellent narration, camera work, and technique.
Outstanding camera angle with easy to follow instructions. Well done sir.
I anti-seize ALL exhaust part threads (especially manifold studs) because dry threads beg for moisture intrusion during heat cycles and subsequent corrosion. I've removed parts I anti-seized thirty years ago with no problem.
The new factory sensors come with some anti seize applied to the treads already.
First class lesson with great footage. Any rookie mistakes could very well turn this job into a nightmare. Attention to the details is what sets you apart.
The night before removal soak with PB Blaster. That has always worked for me especially without a lift using jack stands.
I tried penetrant and 4 different specialized wrenches with extensions- all that did was give me sore hands and start to round the bolt... then I finally decided to give a propane torch a go. Heated it for around a minute on full blast then slapped on a normal wrench and it turned like butter!!! This was on an upstream one rather than a downstream, but it worked just the same!
wish me luck brother I'm bitting the bullet this week 🤞🏻 all else fails 😡🤬🪓🔨🪚
Did it, worked great. Heat, box wrench and hammer. Unfortunately I hit my fingers a couple times. Sensors was 24 years old and I tried many times to get it out. Following your instructions I got it out in under 20 minutes
Thanks for the tips, got my O2 sensor out by being patient and methodical. Used a combination of penetrating fluid, map gas torch, and a snipe on the end of the wrench. Maintained slow removal and penetrating fluid after the initial breaking of the threads.
Fantastic. I had almost rounded the sensor until watching this. After using penetrant a couple of times, cutting the wires on the sensor and then putting the round 22mm wrench on, it popped right out. Thanks a lot man!!
I barely have room under my car when jacked up. Spraying didn't seem to be helping nor was using a hammer. I was about to break out the impact, but searched RUclips first. Glad I found your video. I ended up using both feet to break it loose.
One suggestion I'd make is to not cut the wire until you break it loose. Once broken loose, then snip the wires.
Yea mine just gonna stay in there forever. Tried getting it out all day with torch, penetrating oil, 02 sensor special socket, breaker bar. Nothing will work won’t budge even a little. I’m loosing my mind.
Did you get it out? If you did how?
@ no I didn’t I just took out the exhaust and straight piped it and got super flow master 10 muffler lol. And put new o2 sensors in with new exhaust.
changed my 3.5 ecoboost bank 1 last week. sprayed, wrenched, MAPP gas the whole works, wouldn't budge and gave up after a couple hours. Sprayed it for overnight with PB blaster. Next day, gave it a go cold and hit the wrench with a hammer a few times. It turned out by hand like magic. Couldn't believe it
Best 02 removal video. Very thorough covered all steps and options.
Big believer in using heat as well! When it's got a nice glow I spray it again with the penetrant. It's usually not flammable but you got to be careful. I swear it'll wick in like solder and flux at that point, plus I think it thermal shocks it too to help it break free. Good vid though! Just be patient is the whole trick I think though too.
This way looks like it will work but takes a lot of time. From working at an exhaust shop a few years ago in Michigan the way we would do it is this way. Using an O2 sensor socket that wont stretch open (Blue Point YA9375B or the Schley 93750A are good options) break it lose with no heat or oil using a long 1/2 ratchet or breaker bar. If the threads are cross threaded after removal use an actual 18x1.5mm tap clean the bung hole. install with just a touch of copper anti-seize on the threads and hand tighten with an open end wrench as tight as you would an oil drain plug.
Those sockets I listed were great, I never had an issue with them rounding the nut part of the sensor or stretching open even with a cheater bar. we would also not use heat because the thread from the sensor would get pulled off and and stay with the bung. Either way a 18x1.5 tap will clean it out fine.
werealeyes heating it up doesn’t just make it easier to remove from the exhaust, it helps prevent breaking anything from applying too much stress on the parts. If all you’re doing is replacing a bad sensor the last thing you want it to snap the threads off the pipe. Especially with guys like me who are doing this off their back in their driveway. Lol
@@austincollier14 , yep, that "removing it whilst on the ground with your arms above your head" adds a new level of "difficulty" to the job. Most of the guys in these vids have the vehicle on a lift. Much easier to leverage the application of force. And whilst I'm not the "pro mechanic" and there are those "exceptions", the point of applying heat is to expand the metals. We know that metals expand when heated and contract when cooled. I've witnessed time and again countless fasteners/sensors etc., being successfully removed simply by applying the right amount of heat.
I have a 1997 F-150, I have a failed Bank 1 sensor 2. I got up under my truck, the original sensor almost looks new ?? Hope I don't too much problem. great info
You have provided an excellent tutorial. Thank you. Spraying it with PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or other rust penetrent after you have it broke loose will help. Tapping a seized sensor can help the penetrating oil seep in. Multiple heat cycles are a big help to break the rust bond. I suggest using a 6 point box wrench instead of a 12 point. Less chance of rounding off the nut.
You obviously have never removed an oxygen sensor in a tight place. There is a reason why I do what I do. Oh and BTW it is much harder to round the hex at this size so even with a 12 point you are ok.
@FordTechMakuloco yes I have, and it's a bitch. Yes, sometimes the 6 point just doesn't work.
just replace 4 O2 sensors on my Durango what i did is break the pole and leave the nut intact, put a small 7/8 with my breaker bar, add some w40 and done in no time, took me more time conneting the harness back to the corresponding connector
Hey buddy, I replaced one of the excess O2 sensors on my 12 f150. Wanted to say a big thanks for the videos. You have aided in my truck getting a new transfer case electric motor, thermostat, fuel level switch,, fixing coolant leaks (bad O rings), and now the O2 sensor. Thanks again!
The map gas and a 22mm wrench did the trick.
Thanks, I've been working on my Xterra O2's and I used an impact wrench and it totally stripped out the threads. Good news was I had a rethread that did the job. I won't do that again. Thanks for the helpful tips
I rarely leave a comment on RUclips, i would like to let you know, your video was so helpful and right on the money, heating and DW40 is the way, take your time and it will come off, i even stripped mine and still works, again thanks for sharing and keep up the good work!.
Great video, I've been there numerous times, I have also found once it starts to move after heating use a enough force to retighten and untighten with some penetrating oil, to break up the rust in the threads. When refitting use a specific high temp anti seize grease or similar (not the cheap stuff) if not fitted already to the sensor.
Great advise! Patience is the key. Slow and steady wins the race! Thanks so much for sharing.
Good advice, I had the same problem on a 1997 Maxima, thought I could get it off with a wrench, but had to get it torched at a local mechanic shop and once it got beet red hot, loosen it and tighten it back on before totally removing it so you don’t damage the weakened threads.
soak in pb blaster overnight....hit with torch. works every time..another good video brian.
Letting penetrant soak is the hard part for me.
@@FordTechMakuloco
04 F150 5.4 3V just changed Bank 2 Driver side sensor 2 on outlet of convertor. Texton 47749 7/8 socket fit perfect on downstream Bank2. Just enough room to glide 3/8 ratchet with a "socket and extension as a make shift cheater bar" on end of ratchet. Soaked in PB blaster about 7 applications in 20hour period threaded out by hand the moment it broke free; no torch needed. Thanks for all your videos Sir! It was the original 02 sensor rusted in goooood. Fixed P0430 code!
I've gotten a few tough ones out by cutting the whole body of the sensor off with a hacksaw or Sawsall. You make the cut right down near the hex nut. Then heat and lube it and use a regular 6 point socket and a long breaker bar. This technique also works on things like power steering lines and brake hose ends. You cut the line off and then you can put a regular 6 point socket on the hex nut and use a breaker bar to turn it. In really tight spaces use just a hacksaw blade and wear a glove. The soft aluminum lines are very easy to cut. I ALWAYS use this method exclusively to remove power steering lines from power steering racks and pumps. After removal be sure to wash out the holes with some spray to remove any metal chips left over from cutting the line.
Just the video I needed I got one replaced myself the rest were rusted and wires were spliced and reconnected where the previous owner tried to replace and couldn't break them loose I can't wait to see how it runs with all new ones!
Thanks man, worked great on my downstream O2 sensor. 2019 f150 3.5 eco boost
Another great video Brian. I bought the O2 sensor for the wrong bank last year and will be installing both sensors for my 05 Escape in the spring when the weather is warmer. The timing for this video was perfect.
Even better, I was planning on changing mine (on a Jeep ZJ) today, but ran out of time so sometime this week. Unfortunately, this was the exact plan I was going to go for, and didn't add anything extra to what I already know. Working on cars in the salt belt you learn to deal with stuck everything.
Sounds good doesn't it. Penetrating oil overnight 2 ft breaker bar penetrating oil, heat 1/2" impact wrench didn't work, so I had to cut the exhaust off, now I have to weld in a new pipe
I prefer to remove the entire body of the O2 with an air hammer/chisel (after spraying with penetrant). That allows the use of a 6-point socket, which reduces the chance of rounding the hex. All the great advice you've provided follows that step, as necessary. The vibration from the air hammer sometimes works the penetrant in enough to make it easier. The body doesn't break off easily.
Thank you sir, I would have messed getting o2 sensor off big time. Heat is a wonderful technique. Thank you again for your time and effort doing these videos. Brilliant job. Best Regards Colin
Just did the 2 up streams on my 03 cvpi vic. 15 min on 1, 5hrs on the other 🤬🤬🤬. patience and heat. Ur best friends for this one.
Before replacing with a new 02 sensor, I keep a 12 ga shotgun bronze (the steel bristle work best but are hard to find) bristle bore cleaning brush from Walmart in my box, and I run that through the threads a few times before spraying something on them to clean the junk out. These work great and cost only a couple bucks, so they are cheap to replace compared to the expensive parts store round brushes.
I did this on a 2006 Toyota Sienna. Used open side of 22 mm long wrench (closed side seemed to be stripping). Used PB Blaster and then WD40 and the WD40 seemed to work better. Kept working it back and forth. It was seized on there real good. Got it off. Took my time. Took lots of breaks and used a lot of solvent. Worked it back and forth. The threads of the sensor were stripped when I got done but the threads on the female side were OK. There was some metal stuck to the threads on the female side. Applied generous amount of gunk from the Denso new sensor. Hand threaded then used open wrench. Cleared the codes. So far so good. The beer tastes extra good now.
I'm about to replace my pickups Oxygen sensors and this video seemed to make it easier hope I can replace them with no problems..
I use DEEP CREEP which is non flammable with a propane torch and an oxygen sensor case hardened socket. I always use a six point socket or wrench never a twelve point, like you show in the video. If it is really stubborn I use my air hammer attached to a six point hex case hardened socket and adapter that fits onto my air hammer with heat and that will get it out without any damage to the threads. You just lightly trigger the air hammer with short bursts to jar the sensor loose. I never tried the candle wax trick on oxygen sensors, but I am sure it would work to. Hope this tip helps others out too. Great video though thanks for sharing it.
This video is very helpful.... I just changed the O@ sensors on my E350 XLT Van and the one sensor on the driver side of the engine was not breaking loose. Took a torch and just heated the flange that the sensor was screwed onto just a little bit and with a little bit of effort, the sensor broke loose. OVERALL it was very easy to change the sensors out. I got lucky because I have heard that sometimes these sensors are an outright BEAR to get them changed out.
Thanks so much! I tried a flare nut wrench and it rounded it slightly. Got scared I'd round it off and was about to quit when I saw your video. Had it off in 5 min.
Thanks so much, I have a Ford Focus and I went out and got an O2 sensor wrench/socket and was surprised it wouldn't budge despite torquing on it with my 1/2 ratchet. Hesitated to use penetrating oil since it is a sensor, so decided to consult YT and found your video. I will be trying the heat now after watching. Thanks!
Great video - it saved me some serious grief and dollars. On my two upstream sensor I took my 06 F150 to Tuffy's Auto Repair in Toledo, Ohio and had them replaced there. They did it for $40.00 each. The garage had a lift, which was everything because I would of had to do the job laying on my back in the drive wqy and could not get to the left front O2 sensor connector.
On the downstream side the left O2 sensor gave me a little bit of trouble but came out okay. The right sensor was a different story. On my first go around with it it bound up on me. Instead of doing it Brian's way, I muscled the sensor and it locked up ( I watched this video after I did this). Before I would do any more damage to the sensor I took my truck to Tuff's to see if they could do the job, since they did the two upstream ones - price was a bit higher - $80.00. They put the truck on the rack and heated up the sensor and tried giving the sensor a good pull. In a couple of minutes they came back to me and said that it was not going to budged and that would have to destroy the sensor and the catalytic converter which was going to cost some serious dollars (1500 or so). They asked me if I wanted them to continue. I said no. They did not charge me for trying and not doing any work per say.
From Tuffys I went to my local Ford Dealer and made an appointment to have the sensor removed $97.50 without any extra). This was scheduled for tomorrow, September 24, 2018. After watching this video and a couple of other videos I decided I owed it to myself to try removing this sensor one more time. I prepared myself to tackle this in a couple of different ways.
On my 06 F150 the heat shield divides the space in half between the converter and the transmission, making getting suitable tools in place difficult. The first go around I used the "crow foot socket with the flex handle" and started to round a couple hex points.
The tools I got together for this time where:
22 MM deep well split socket with the 1" hex head (1/4" drive).
22 MM combination wrench.
1 " combination wrench.
Pipe wrench.
Large vise grip.
Cheater pipe.
Portable torch.
Tread chaser.
WD40 Rust Breaker.
I did not cut the wires as Brian indicates in the video, reason being is if I was unsuccessful in getting the sensor out I was still going to have to get my truck to the Ford Dealer.
My truck is fairly high off the ground, but I jacked it up giving myself as much height as I felt comfortable with.
After crawling under the truck. I put the deep well socket in place. Once this is in place there is no room to put a 1/4" drive breaker bar or ratchet in place. There is just enough room to get the 1" combination wrench box end on. The only amount of room to work the wrench is from about half way up along the side of the transmission to the bottom of the floor pan. Working with Brian's methodology, since the sensor was already bound up in the removal direction. I took the wrench to the tightening direction, pulling a little at a time. I soaked in as much penetrating oil as I could. I started working the wrench/ socket between tightening and loosening the sensor a small bit at a time. For at least 15 - 20 minutes it felt like I wasn't going anywhere with it so I was going through my thoughts as to what to try next, utilizing the pipe wrench or the vise grips and cheater on the socket doing what I was presently doing with the wrench. As I continued with my motions the tightening and loosening sequence started to show some movement. I shot some more oil at the sensor and continued with what I was doing For the next 45 minutes or so I continued this until I was able to back the sensor out of it's threads. The unit would not come out and for a bit of more time I kept trying to bring it all the way out, no success. I was beginning to feel that I stripped the threads. I finally decided to angle the unit a bit in different position to where the unit would bite a bit, once I got a bite,, I loosened the the unit some more with the 22MM wrench (socket is removed) and was finally able to back the sensor out.
I inserted the thread chaser in the hole and chased the threads, cleaning them up. Once the threads were chased in the converter the threads felt not to be stripped. I inserted the new sensor, tightened it down and plugged it in. Success and done.
The sensor that I removed had a metal buildup ring around it that would not let it get past the threads in the converter. It gives a person the illusion that the threads are stripped.
I did this cold without any torch heat.
I installed Bosch Oxygen Sensors rather than Motorcraft/ Ford. Bosch invented the first oxygen sensors.
I personally would've stuck with OEM on the 02 sensors. Just FYI the downstream 02 sensors are not necessary for the drivability of the vehicle, there are just for emissions. They meter the air after the cat to make sure it's doing its job right.
It probably doesn't matter, dollars to donuts says Bosch makes the sensors for Ford as they do for a lot of other manufacturers.
your a real pro real good instructor with out any attitude like some of these yahoos that post,thanks again.
25 years in the business and i gound used brake fluid is the best lubricant for removing o2 sensor. Brake fluid will prevent galling the threads, its really slimy. I used this trick nearly every time. Heat is my last option.
this was an outstanding job , it doesnt get any better than this
For removing stuck O2 sensor easily, I used 3-in-one PENETRANT in orange n black plastic container. Wait 30 minutes after applying it, it come off so easily.
good tips on not destroying the threaded housing. I plan on doing this job after I recieve my OBD reader to see if the sensor requires replacement.
Rather than cutting the wires, I get out my Sawzall and cut off the sensor leaving the hex part. A regular 1/2" drive socket with a breaker bar will remove it.
don't use too much torque, it's a bad idea, use heat like he did or if you don't have a torch start your car and let get a little hot (that's how I got mine out) It would not budge when the car was cold.
@@johnames6430 mlm
Good idea and u can squirt some lube through the sensor
This is how you do it in my experience. Nice video! Too many people rush and break or strip threads. I'll start soaking with penetrant days ahead and repeat the following days if I think I'm gonna have a problem, then start heating with mapp gas.
You could also 'sacrifice' a box end wrench by cutting a slot in it to fit over the sensor wires. Also wrap 'wick' around the sensor where the threads are and soak it for as long as possible. Keep it soaked with a penatrating fluid. The thick seam of men's underwear will make a good wick. This way you can remove the sensor to remove the built up carbon that might be misleading the computer. Thank you for the video.
Best advice on breaking loose my rusty 1992 GMC Oxygen sensor. WD40 wouldn't cut it. Propane torch worked wonders first time. Save me time and money doing it myself. Subbed.
Hi, I just wanted to thank you for your tips on not damaging the threads. I pulled mine today and was very careful; threads intact. U da Man! Best, John
I've been using Mapp gas since the 70's heats it red but never blows thru .. THE BEST!!!
Dude, u saved me!!!! I followed ur suggestions step by step !!!
Thanks a lot for this! I was struggling getting mine out. After watching your vid I had it off in 5 minutes.🎉
Haha how about the driver side 02 on a lincoln town car, it's in the manifold only way you can get a wrench on it is by removing the steering and they're always seized in there 😅
Mine was so easy to remove compared. I didn’t heat it up I just used an actual 7/8 O2 sensor socket (full socket with slot) and a breaker bar. Mine was removable by hand after it broke free.
Most are easy.
Before putting in the new sensor I allways chase the treads. You can use the old sensor for that by making a few slits in the lenght of the sensortreads with a anglegrinder. It work out perfect for me.
I will not buy things that can be made easy
I found that brake fluid works pretty well for rusted lug nuts, and it takes quite high temperature, and is really thin, so that it wicks into the threads pretty well... just a thought
Bank 1 O2 sensor just went out so will attempt this next week or so. It's winter and not looking forward to laying on a cold, dirty garage floor. Will take it to a local shop that rents out lift bays and get it off in the comfort of a warm enclosure.
GR8T vantage point for the CAM 👍😎
I'm just imagining that one in a inaccessible location. You wonder why there isn't a different attachment method. It just madness. Thank you for such a great example. Cheers! ❤
That Mac tool is the best for those sensors it only let me down once on numerous model cars/trucks because of a clearance issues
I love the PB Blaster for this application
Old comment but Liquid Wrench! Project farm tested penetrating oils. Best was making your own mix of 50/50 atf/acetone but liquid wrench was a close second. Pb was like 5th.
i snapped one recently on a 96 and had to drill it out and rethread, luckily i didn't have to change the pipe , close shave for sure
thanks so much! did it the way you showed in the video and the bad O2 in my 2006 honda accord came right out. Just as a safety measure make sure you wear gloves or let things cool off for about an hour I made the mistake of grabbing the box end side of the wrench after 15minutes and it was still piping hot. I should mention that it all just took me 10 minutes it doesn't take long at all.
Would you recommend using a thread chaser to clean up the threads before reinstalling the new one?
Generally, it is not needed.
@@FordTechMakuloco Thank you
Jeep Liberty here, I just had a mechanic charge me $180 labor to remove 2 of mine that died and were rusted in and it only took them 30 minutes. And I paid for the new sensors too on top of that!
Thats $360/hr. Just because they were impossible to get to and he had the right tool.
I feel like a complete fool, but at least my car is running right now.
Thanks for mentioning not to use an impact... that was a thought I had. Great video. Thanks
Nice to see the struggle. That's what most of us need to see so we know what we're in for. Of course the finished product at the end is nice to. Good explanations, good visual and way to show the work. I watched another where the guy had pre-broken the sensors loose. Not as useful. Also nice explanation to the comment above as to why you used a 12 point wrench instead of a 6 point. Understandable in tight spots.
I just did 2013 f150 bank 1 sensor 1 removed passenger wheel and fender liner heated with torch and cut a 7/8 wrench in half and used a long pipe for leverage when it popped I busted my finger and let me tell you the pain never felt so good. Triumphant even.
Great video with great explaining and camera angle.
Good method. Use Aerocroil and let it soak for a while. I had an upstream O2 break free then jam and get stuck fast. Could re-tighten but it would not budge beyond 3/4 turn loose. PB Blaster nor WD40 helped. A squirt of Aerocroil and 45min later it came right out! A thread had broken off the sensor and that's why it would't back out. No bung damage thanks to the Aerocroil!
20 years original Motorcraft equipment,no too shabby ...Built Ford Tough💪 good for another 20
I’m watching this because I’m replacing an O2 sensor on my 2018 F150. Got a whopping 6 years out it. Modern F150’s have lots of problems. I drove. Dodge Ram for 25 years. Regret buying this F150.
Absolutely love this video. I have often thought about the O2 censor even way back when I owned a 1982 Cutlass Supreme back in the day, which tripped a code. BUT if my truck is not throwing a code should I still change the O2 censor? Do they still go bad slightly, or only work at say 50% efficeincy and no one know about it? Does my truck signal when it truly needs to be replaced? They are still original to the 2005 F150 with 319,000 miles on it. Or do I change them because they are so old that they have to be bad by now regardless of tripped code or not?
If they go bad theyll trip a check engine light
Yep, experience is the best teacher. I learned the hard way.
No impact gun or open end wrench.
Auto parts store recommended Blaster Penetrating Catalyst as a penetrant. Worked well for me, but my sensor was not rusted. I sprayed the penetrant on the day before I did the job.
Yeah I need to go get it too. Hopefully it works
Thanks so much for taking the time to shoot this, it was extremely helpful to this novice. I didn’t need heat, but being patient, tapping with a hammer, and your technique of back, and forth was key to getting this damn thing out.
Want to say thank you for all the great videos you post here. Thank you for your service in the Marine Corps and wishing you and your family a safe and blessed Christmas .
Nice job, on my 3rd day trying to remove mine carefully. Trying heat next. Thanks.
Carlysle makes a nice set of 6 point ratcheting wrenches for putting them back on. So much quicker
Great job what I always do too is brush around to help to take lot rust out
Well I don't have a Ford I'm working on a a German car but other than that I did like your Technique I guess I was going the wrong way when I was removing mine so I stopped and try to find Solutions before I tackle it again thank you again nice video it was explained perfectly
I had a check engine light on my 01 Ford Mustang GT... After a scan the codes leaded to the 02 sensors... Lifted the car and found out all my oxygen sensor wires had been cut and they also had been welded.... I needed to weld bungs back in cause the original threads where beyond shot... What a job that was to replace... I put Bosch oxygen sensors and no more check engine lights.
Excellent Video on replacing the Oxygen sensors. Thanks.
This was a great tip. It saved me hours of time and headache. Thanks a lot.
I have a 2015 3.5 T, passenger side B1S1 needs replacing, I am not able to disconnect the sensor from the harness. None of the videos I’ve watched including yours 0:13 fails to show how to get the male sensor out of the female vehicle harness. At this point I may have already damaged the connector. Theres no red lock key or anything else. Also, the sensor itself will come out ok, it’s just the damn connector.
Thanks for posting. I was in a bind to get these done before winter in Ohio and only had small windows of time with outside temps high enough for the torch to burn.
For guys laying on your back in the gravel or on the cold ground, it can be done. Forget the special sockets. Cut the wires. Torch, lube, 7/8 wrench. Repeat. I did mine on an 06 5.4 4x4 for about 6 cycles before it cracked. On the 4x4's, there is 0 turn radius and the job is so much more difficult. You can barely get the wrench angled at all for sensor 1's but after a few geometry refreshers, it is possible.
I have a 2002 ford explorer 4.6/ EGR vacuum solenoid. Do you have removal instructions?
Great video ! Thanks great advice. Using physics to assist!
I will be doing this in about two weeks, your videos are so helpful. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. 👍👍
Thanks your explanation along WITH video footage it's so great....wow. thank YOU
got a crank no start on 98 f150 4.6lk, any ideas? any known issues? , fuel good, spark good, timing good, good show
Hi Brian - Good Video / Good Job by not rushing to take the 02 sensor out yet taking a little time patients .
Now you can come to do mine ( lol )
Patience is even better.
mine to..
If the tailpipe is old and rusted, the heat ends up putting a hole in the pipe. I just use WD-40, let it set, spray again and use a cheater bar. Excellent photography and explanation, thanks for the video.
So in my case a 2011 dodge caliber 2.0 SE
Upper bank 1 faulty O2 sensor. Original sensor..should i run my engine and let the manifold heat up or should i remove it cold..its 32 degrees outside currently. Thankfully i can access it from the top. My local garage wants anywhere from $175.00 to $260.00
(O2 sensor costs $50)
I can understand these prices if its one like this videos. Yet he did it in real time in under 15 min.
So i will try and see if mine will budge if not, than off to the garage.
Nice video, thank you.
I do wish you'd shown how to unclip the connection.
This way worked for me today on 2002 chevy impala 3.8 downstream o2 sensor blue torch full blast and then wrench and hit with hammer and I got the wrench over connector by putting the tab in the box end of wrench first n it's tight fit but it does go over the female end and last thing I WAS ON MY BACK IN MY DIRT PARKING IT MY APARTMENT.
I have used a torch to get them out a few times, but i heat the pipe more than the o2 sensor. That expands the female threads and not so much the o2 sensors threads....if you heat them both up the same, both male and female threads will expand at almost the same rate.
You sir have patients as I was watching this all I wanted to do was to force that wrench. So this was helpful and enlightening I have found that I am not this guy!!!