Thank you very much for that, I have looked at the exact same model, now I know what to look out for and get a set of springs, I dropped it in the first place because in my opinion it lacks a locking device
Hi Simon, I also use the Katsu Router and have the same lift installed in my table. I do not use springs. You can align the head of the leveling screw with the bottom of your insert plate. I drilled the access hole a bit smaller than the head. So the router will be pushed downwards if I lower the lift. The only disadvantage of this lift is the 90 degree angle. If Iuse a bit bigger or longer router bit and push the wood towards the bit (obvious) while milling, I do not reach a perfect 90 degree angle. This is due to the fragile construction and small srew/poles.
Longer adjustment screw, drill clearance hole in bottom plate, put stop collar above and below that plate locked to adjustment bolt. Also add two plastic washers sandwiching red plate!
I got one of these last week, I've not messed with it yet but funnily enough my levelling screw was bent as well. Subscribed and now gonna look for your update video. Happy new year.
I just ordered one of these lifts - it was cheap enough to risk buying without know if it will really work. If it's identical to the one you have, I guess all I'll need to do is add springs and drill a hole in the plate for the adjustment handle. Thanks for the video.
I would worry about the router trying to climb up as you route. If nothing holds the router fixed in one place it is liable to move up and down against the springs. I hope it works out for you.
Yes, it's a fair point, I added springs to 'improve it' I think it is better and easier to use than what I had, I'll eventually upgrade to a quality router and lift. Thanks for watching,
I actually ordered the same router lift this morning for around 31 euro. I was also unsure about it not having springs and relaying only on pure gravity. Can you tell me what the ideal length/diameter for the springs would be? If I order the springs today they may arrive at around the same time. I'll try to get one with some thickness so they have decent strength.
Thanks for your time & info. I have been looking at this type of router lift for a bit of time but could not find a "real" info on the quality or functionality. I do have one question, what is the outside diameter of your router motor? Thx, Red
I have bought this lift but problem is putting the router bit into the router , the spanner has not got enough turning space as it hit the lift spindles ,so only way is to take the router off and do , which is pain in the neck .
Hi, thanks for the qurstion, sorry I didnt cover this. It fits a trim router, like the Makita knock-off I have the body of which is about ~64 -65mm diameter, the 'fingers' that grab the body in the lift will probably give you 2-3mm either side of that. Hope that helps.
David, I suspect it isn't that accurate, I've not tested it for concentricness but suspect it angles a bit on the side with the lift bolt. It's still better than adjusting by hand for getting the height right but if you are looking for more accuracy it is worth saving up for a branded product.
Thanks Simon. I suspect this would be a suitable aid for me with limited need for heavy duty kit. But what "insert plate" did you use? I guess they are all different for each brand of router.
It was a KKmoon multifunctional router table insert plate, the router is a KATSU electric hand wood trim router. But I think the trim routers are pretty standard dimensions. Both available on Amazon.
Bought one Used it once realized it was junk Main problem is there is NO locking mechanism I did overcome that but using the fix was a PITA (wasted money!)
Well I bought it expecting a much, I'll have to see if my experience is the same as yours. The design is flawed as I point out in the video, but I'm just looking for a cheap upgrade on what I was using. Hopefully the mod I've done ( next weeks video) will solve the movement issue you've experienced. And I've another video waiting to be made that will quantify how much movement there is once modded and if I need some sort of locking mechanism as you've suggested. So stay tuned to find out! :-) 😀
Hi, the springs are compression springs, they need to be about 65mm long and an internal diameter of 8mm or bigger, mine are actually 16mm in diameter.
I BOUGHT a lift just like this and im TEYING to Find out justmhow this thing works,lol,i doesent Line up on the PLATE no HOLES for,this,thing had to drill a hole,😂😂😂,but,what holds it in place when ya lift The router??????
It's OK, my verdict is the same, good value for money but don't expect the quality of a lift costing ten times more. If you don't have a lift and want a cheap upgrade to improve height adjustment then this is that upgrade
Yes, they were stock compression springs, but they were not strong enough, check out next weeks video for how I solved this by making my own custom springs
If the router is one that can be detached from the plunge or fixed base then you should be able to find a lift, if it's like my old Bosch however then it won't be designed for conversion.
Thanks for the suggestion, I think from other comments I've had that the unit might have been faulty or manufactured incorrectly, some viewers have said that on their units the height adjusting thread is captive with the bottom plate, this isn't the case on my unit, but this would fix the problem, so something to look out for if you get one.
before criticizing the work of others, you should have to go school and learn mechanic. First the material is aluminium, secondly the belt do not go down by gravity but by the head of the screw which is blocked by the plate on which the mechanisme is fixed, you can adjust it with a little screw at the bottom. Remove your ridicullous springs.... I have bought one and I can tell you as a mechanical ingenior that is a very good conception and very well made.
Hi Jeff, Sorry for my english, I am french. I invite You to have a look at this video: Router Table Lift for Micro Adjustment - DIY Install by Joeff Joinery
Hi, it sounds like the little bolt on your unit is captive with the bottom plate. On my unit the little screw serves no purpose other than to centralise the main screw thread of the mechanism. A captive bolt would certainly be a better design, but unfortunately on my unit the hole for the little bolt is slightly larger than the head of the bolt, so it can't serve as a captive bolt - a stepped hole would have been a better solution. I have been thinking for a few months about how I modify the lift so that the main thread becomes captive with the bottom plate but life has got in the way of actually doing anything about it. My main points in the review 1.There were no instructions 2.The main thread was bent 3. The design flaw (or perhaps manufacturing flaw?) preventing the lift from lowering correctly that my review was fair and I stand by what I said, which, if I paraphrase was 'It's better than no lift, but don't expect the rigidity of a lift costing 10 times as much.'
You can clearly tell in the video that his bolt is not captive, like you claim yours to be. You probably don't have the same model he does. You don't need to be a mechanical engineer to see that.
This was EXACTLY what I wanted to see.
No fluffing around, all the right info.
Very well made 👏🏻
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you very much for that, I have looked at the exact same model, now I know what to look out for and get a set of springs, I dropped it in the first place because in my opinion it lacks a locking device
Glad I could help, it is cheap, personally I think it is better than nothing, but I will one day replace it. :-)
Hi Simon, I also use the Katsu Router and have the same lift installed in my table. I do not use springs. You can align the head of the leveling screw with the bottom of your insert plate. I drilled the access hole a bit smaller than the head. So the router will be pushed downwards if I lower the lift.
The only disadvantage of this lift is the 90 degree angle. If Iuse a bit bigger or longer router bit and push the wood towards the bit (obvious) while milling, I do not reach a perfect 90 degree angle. This is due to the fragile construction and small srew/poles.
Yes, I've noticed that as well, thanks for sharing 👍🏻
You could even add a washer or shim between the plate and the head of the screw, but it would need a trace of adhesive.
Simon, where've you been all my RUclips life? You've done everything I want to do in one channel
Thanks, I'm glad you found me!
Longer adjustment screw, drill clearance hole in bottom plate, put stop collar above and below that plate locked to adjustment bolt. Also add two plastic washers sandwiching red plate!
Thanks for the tip, I've been thinking of doing something like this 😀
I got one of these last week, I've not messed with it yet but funnily enough my levelling screw was bent as well. Subscribed and now gonna look for your update video. Happy new year.
Thanks, I have a few on this lift, including a Digital Readout Mod and a springs mod, I've another mod in mind for later this year (hopefully!)
Mine has just arrived from Temu. Let battle commence !
LOL, good luck
Hi tinker that looks better than what I have set up. I think that I will invest in one thanks looks easy to install thinks again 👍👍👍👏
Hi, thanks for the comments. Remember, it's a budget lifer, better than nothing, but not nearly as nice as the more expensive ones
Using the head of caliper to measure depth usually gives you more consistent results. The tail end is better for measuring holes.
Thanks for the tip! :-) 😀
I just ordered one of these lifts - it was cheap enough to risk buying without know if it will really work. If it's identical to the one you have, I guess all I'll need to do is add springs and drill a hole in the plate for the adjustment handle. Thanks for the video.
Good luck. I hope it works out for you.
@@DIYTinkerer Thanks. I'll find out when it eventually gets here.
I would worry about the router trying to climb up as you route. If nothing holds the router fixed in one place it is liable to move up and down against the springs. I hope it works out for you.
Yes, it's a fair point, I added springs to 'improve it' I think it is better and easier to use than what I had, I'll eventually upgrade to a quality router and lift. Thanks for watching,
I actually ordered the same router lift this morning for around 31 euro. I was also unsure about it not having springs and relaying only on pure gravity. Can you tell me what the ideal length/diameter for the springs would be? If I order the springs today they may arrive at around the same time. I'll try to get one with some thickness so they have decent strength.
HI they need to be at least 65mm long with an Internal Diameter of about 10mm, they don't need to be too strong.
@@DIYTinkererThanks! Great review BTW
Thanks for your time & info. I have been looking at this type of router lift for a bit of time but could not find a "real" info on the quality or functionality. I do have one question, what is the outside diameter of your router motor?
Thx,
Red
Hi Red, this is for a trim router, mine is a KATSU which is a rip off of a Makita trim router, it is ~65mm diameter
@@DIYTinkerer Thanks for the measurement.
Oh yes works you need the router I have one definitely works is good is aluminium body sorry to interrupt is very easy fix thanks
Thanks for the info
I have bought this lift but problem is putting the router bit into the router , the spanner has not got enough turning space as it hit the lift spindles ,so only way is to take the router off and do , which is pain in the neck .
I raise the router and do this from above the table
Thanks
No problem
What router fits this lift? The ads I see online never mention this important bit of info.
Hi, thanks for the qurstion, sorry I didnt cover this. It fits a trim router, like the Makita knock-off I have the body of which is about ~64 -65mm diameter, the 'fingers' that grab the body in the lift will probably give you 2-3mm either side of that. Hope that helps.
@@DIYTinkerer thanks! Also, thanks for covering obscure gear like this...I may just have to try one out, they are so cheap it is hard to resist.
More important - does the unit raise and lower accurately - is it concentric????
David, I suspect it isn't that accurate, I've not tested it for concentricness but suspect it angles a bit on the side with the lift bolt. It's still better than adjusting by hand for getting the height right but if you are looking for more accuracy it is worth saving up for a branded product.
Thanks Simon. I suspect this would be a suitable aid for me with limited need for heavy duty kit. But what "insert plate" did you use? I guess they are all different for each brand of router.
It was a KKmoon multifunctional router table insert plate, the router is a KATSU electric hand wood trim router. But I think the trim routers are pretty standard dimensions. Both available on Amazon.
I bought one but it appears that it's not compatible with my ryobi because of the screw position on the Ryobi
Ah that's a shame 😞, thanks for posting so others know.
On Temu there's one listed for only $11.48 and it has springs.
That is insane. And it has springs, I knew it was a good idea :-)
Bought one Used it once realized it was junk Main problem is there is NO locking mechanism I did overcome that but using the fix was a PITA (wasted money!)
Well I bought it expecting a much, I'll have to see if my experience is the same as yours. The design is flawed as I point out in the video, but I'm just looking for a cheap upgrade on what I was using. Hopefully the mod I've done ( next weeks video) will solve the movement issue you've experienced. And I've another video waiting to be made that will quantify how much movement there is once modded and if I need some sort of locking mechanism as you've suggested. So stay tuned to find out! :-) 😀
Could I ask what length and diameter the springs are?
Thanks very much.
Hi, the springs are compression springs, they need to be about 65mm long and an internal diameter of 8mm or bigger, mine are actually 16mm in diameter.
thank you.
@@DIYTinkerer
I BOUGHT a lift just like this and im TEYING to Find out justmhow this thing works,lol,i doesent Line up on the PLATE no HOLES for,this,thing had to drill a hole,😂😂😂,but,what holds it in place when ya lift The router??????
It's just the threaded rod holding it in place
Yep:Y bolts not STRAIGHT either,lol,Will bind
I'm sort of glad it wasn't just me...
So you've had a few months now. What's the verdict?
It's OK, my verdict is the same, good value for money but don't expect the quality of a lift costing ten times more. If you don't have a lift and want a cheap upgrade to improve height adjustment then this is that upgrade
How to fix it so that it does not go down or up it does not have a height fixing brake.
How to ?
Gracias
Yes it's on my to do list!
Same,thin i RAN INTO,turned The handel NOTHING,
Not immediately obvious is it!
Advise ya if ya got one get springs,lol
Yep
what kind of springs did you use? are they compression?
Yes, they were stock compression springs, but they were not strong enough, check out next weeks video for how I solved this by making my own custom springs
@@DIYTinkerer You could put 2 springs with a washer between them on each column
@Ozone280 yep good suggestion 👌
is there any router lift, i can indtall an ordinary router likemy Bosch 1400 Watt router ?
If the router is one that can be detached from the plunge or fixed base then you should be able to find a lift, if it's like my old Bosch however then it won't be designed for conversion.
Best o get a NON China MADE bolt lol,but im in Philippines no SUCH thing,lol
LOL 😆
Pon una Emisora de radio asi puedes hablar todo el rato
Great idea 💡 👍🏻
Yep same,as,mine,no instructions,use to that CHINA NEVER SEND INST AND WHEN AND IF THEYMDOMITS IN MANDERN😂😂😂
I guess you get what you pay for
Just add weight to the machine.
Thanks for the suggestion, I think from other comments I've had that the unit might have been faulty or manufactured incorrectly, some viewers have said that on their units the height adjusting thread is captive with the bottom plate, this isn't the case on my unit, but this would fix the problem, so something to look out for if you get one.
@@DIYTinkerer I bought one and will look a this, thanks for the advise.
REMEMBER YOUMBUY CHINA YA GET CHINA MADE,LOL
Yes, there's a reason they are cheap!
before criticizing the work of others, you should have to go school and learn mechanic. First the material is aluminium, secondly the belt do not go down by gravity but by the head of the screw which is blocked by the plate on which the mechanisme is fixed, you can adjust it with a little screw at the bottom. Remove your ridicullous springs.... I have bought one and I can tell you as a mechanical ingenior that is a very good conception and very well made.
I am assuming English is not your first language?
Hi Jeff, Sorry for my english, I am french. I invite You to have a look at this video: Router Table Lift for Micro Adjustment - DIY Install by Joeff Joinery
Hi, it sounds like the little bolt on your unit is captive with the bottom plate. On my unit the little screw serves no purpose other than to centralise the main screw thread of the mechanism. A captive bolt would certainly be a better design, but unfortunately on my unit the hole for the little bolt is slightly larger than the head of the bolt, so it can't serve as a captive bolt - a stepped hole would have been a better solution. I have been thinking for a few months about how I modify the lift so that the main thread becomes captive with the bottom plate but life has got in the way of actually doing anything about it. My main points in the review 1.There were no instructions 2.The main thread was bent 3. The design flaw (or perhaps manufacturing flaw?) preventing the lift from lowering correctly that
my review was fair and I stand by what I said, which, if I paraphrase was 'It's better than no lift, but don't expect the rigidity of a lift costing 10 times as much.'
You can clearly tell in the video that his bolt is not captive, like you claim yours to be. You probably don't have the same model he does. You don't need to be a mechanical engineer to see that.