I do the maintenance on all of my family's vehicles, I grabbed my C clamp thinking I was going to push my calipers back, what a surprise! I was running late for my sons game and I did not have time to run back to the Auto-Zone for a tool to screw the calipers in. I pulled your video up and saw that you suggested a pry bar if you don.t have the wrench. We'll I made it in time because of you! GREAT VIDEO! Thanks!!!!!! Paul Paulstoolbox
You saved me some bucks! I was knocking myself out trying to figure out how to compress the rear piston. Tried an 8" C-clamp but it wouldn't budge. Never occurred to be to screw it back in. Also helped out with the close-up video...Thanks a million!
This solves my problem with my back brakes. I changes the front ones this past fall and save myself about 1 hour of waiting at the Meineke and saved about $215!!! Now i'm going to tackle the back ones and this vid gave me the answer on the tool i needed (brake piston tool). savi ng my self another $200 !!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS ManClubAustin !!!!!!!
When I was editing, I realized that I didn't really show the piston alignment in the original footage. So instead of publishing a half ass video, I went back outside at night, pulled the wheel and re-shot the missing parts.
Thanks for the video. Father-In-Law told me about the way in which the piston has to be worked in order to compress it back in position. Wondered about what he was talking about, without this video, I would have been at a loss. Got 43K on the last set of pads since I took it to the local dealership. These pads are the one since the recall about the low wear on rear brakes. Thanks from Cedar Park.
May have to look into this. I have an '08 Accord with 65K miles, but the mechanic told me my rotors are worn. This is the 3rd time in 5 years I've had brake issues out of this car (replaced the rear in 10/09, the front in 3/12), and I don't have $200-300 to blow AGAIN. Thanks for this!
Awesome video. Like many other people, I was using a C clamp to try and compress the caliper. Good thing you posted this video or I'd still be outside scratching my head haha
@ManClubAustin thats surprising to hear! I have a 2008 honda civic si coupe and i luv it! bought it brand new early 2008 and it is now march 2011 and im going to be doing my FIRST brake pad and rotor change, amazing they lasted me about 3 yrs! I guess the oem parts for the civic had no issues at all.
Thanks for the video I didn't know how to push back the caliper. Im used to compressing them back in. I used a universal brake kit that I borrowed from Autozone to turn it back. I have a 2010 coupe and got 35000 miles out of my factory rear brake pads.
hey i need to change the rear breaks on my 08 honda accord lx. i bought the brakes already but i didnt get any grease or anything. so far its simple from the video but i wish you had shown the part where to screw the piston. i didnt get any springs with the pad either im goin back to napa....
You can use the 3/8 extension bar in your socket set to turn the caliper clockwise in so that it fits the new pads. I also bought that tool. But I always use the end of my extension bar.
@bootsiebanty The rear caliper pistons screw in. Pay attention to the alignment of the "+". The fronts press in. The rotors are held in with screw (factory). You might need an impact driver to get them off. Or you could drill them out. Google search TSB 09-096. Honda released new pads for front/rear. You might be covered under warranty...check with the dealership if you're willing. Good luck!
@Mikeeeie If you follow the instructions in the video, you won't damage anything. The piston is a bit tough to screw in at first, but once it starts it becomes easier. You'll know when it is all the way in...cuz it stops Just make sure to align it once you've screwed it in all the way.
@bootsiebanty Once you have the wheel off, remove the brake hose mounting bolt (for added play in the hose). Then remove the two caliper bracket bolts. This will allow you to remove the entire caliper. I usually fashion a wire hanger to support the caliper. Remove the disc screws. The rotor should pull out. If not, there are threaded slots to fit 8x1.25mm bolts to push the disc from the hub.
@ManClubAustin Thanks a lot. I did the front brakes and the rear brakes last weekend with those same exact duralast gold brakes. They are way better than the stock brakes. The stock brakes made queeky noises which were very annoying and embarrasing in a parking lot. Only tooke me about 1 and a half hours to do. Thanks again.
@vconnection No problem...I'm glad you got it! Be sure to check out the other videos I did on lubing the slider pin, and how to change the brake fluid. Thanks for watching, and as always....keep 'em hangin'!
I just helped a friend do a 2007 Accord sedan last night. The brakes were similar, but not exact. Once you remove the two bolts holding the caliper (12mm and 17mm, if remember correctly), the caliper will slide off, moving towards the rear of the car. Open the brake master cylinder, then screw in the caliper, taking note of its correct orientation. Make sure you align the piston properly! Inspect the rotor, and replace if need be. Lube your sliding pin (search for another vid on that).
No worries, man. Yeah, jack from the back and then put jack stands on both sides. Since the hook is kinda high, you might have to put the jack on some bricks or some solid pieces of wood to get enough height to get the tires off and put the jack stands in place.
I'm still rolling on the pads from the video. I think you'll be happy with them...less brake dust and longer life. I'm with you on the rotor thing..let the ceramic pads chew up the rotor, I'm gonna replace them anyway! Thanks for watching.
@milkywaycenter I chose to remove the springs to lube them, per the Honda service manual. My rear brakes were very squeaky. It isn't absolutely necessary, but as my dad says, "If you're gonna do something, do it right".
@jtnoodle It's that EBD system putting a load on the rears to avoid "nose dipping" during braking, coupled with the undersized rear brakes. The Honda "fix" was adding V springs. Hopefully they changed the pad compound a bit too. I don't think it'll help much. I just got the Auto Zone ceramics with lifetime warranty, so I don't need to worry about paying again. But yeah, doing pads every year or 18 months is a drag. I guess we'll just get good at switching them out!
I don't know about an ECU fix....but the AutoZone pads are still on my car. The best thing about them is the lifetime warranty - so I never have to buy them again. If you have an 2008 or early 2009, check my other vid on the slider pin reversal. This contributed to early rear brake wear. Sadly, the rear brakes on the Accord are undersized for the car's size/weight.
@nightrider2k6 I came from a 2001 Civic, so I was pretty let down by the Accord's rear brake durability. I think I only changed the brakes once in the Civic, and got 100k miles on that car before it sold. The problem described in the comments and video only pertain to the Accord and TSX (same platform).
@ABDizzy83 The misalignment of the screw in caliper wouldn't turn on the brake/vsa light. Usually a brake light staying on means you're low on brake fluid. Did you check that? Did you disconnect any of the hoses? If the caliper is left not aligned, it'll just cause uneven wear in the pad....
@itsThuts It was in the service manual, so I did it. Check out my newer video on lubing the slider pins, too. Lubing the clips is just to keep the brake noise to a minimum.
@vidguy007 It wasn't necessary. I just got sick of the squeaking and the excessive dust. Other Accord drivers have reported rear brakes requiring replacement at approximately 15,000 miles. So think of it as a preemptive strike.
@BRuE92 Only one day...the job itself took less than an hour. But good eye - I realized when I was editing the video that some of the shots weren't clear. So instead of posting an incomplete video, I went back out side in the evening and reshot the sequences of lubing and screw caliper piston alignment to make them more clear to the viewers.
Bad ass that people are still watching this. Basically just put the side that fits into the caliper piston and ratchet (screw it) back in. It's threaded, like a bolt
@alainp1020 This question has been asked before...here's my response: "good eye - I realized when I was editing the video that some of the shots weren't clear. So instead of posting an incomplete video, I went back out side in the evening and reshot the sequences of lubing and screw caliper piston alignment to make them more clear to the viewers."
@zonebellond123 Yep. We have the same chassis, and the same rear brake issue. Honda has a recall/replacement program on the rear pads. You might check with the Acura dealership to see if they have done the same.
I have an 08 coupe with 48,000 km's and have started noticing this also. Assumed on my schedule maintenance, I would be warned of low brake pad wear, was not, so was a bit of a rude wake up after coming from the shop 1 month ago. Read the manual and it states the OEM brakes have a 'warning' mechanism that says they should be replaced. So do I take it back to honda and haggle over $250 reimbursement, or get the parts and do the work myself, like i did on previous cars?
@Worldwidehomicide I have an 08 coupe with 48,000 km's and have started noticing this also. Assumed on my schedule maintenance, I would be warned of low brake pad wear, was not, so was a bit of a rude wake up after coming from the shop 1 month ago. Read the manual and it states the OEM brakes have a 'warning' mechanism that says they should be replaced. So do I take it back to honda and haggle over $250 reimbursement, or get the parts and do the work myself, like i did on previous cars?
@jtnoodle Okay. So the autozone ceramics come with a lifetime warranty or did you purchase it additionally? I'm pretty sure I got the something-lifetime or other when I did the rears. Can't remember. I do know the fronts which I did yesterday came with a "limited" lifetime warranty. Not sure exactly if that covers normal wear and tear though. Thanks again for the helpful info.
@6824096 Once you've screwed the piston back into the caliper, I'd put the cap back on the brake fluid cap back on. After you get the pads lubed and back on, and everything else in place, lower the car down and start it up. You just need to press the brake pedal all the way down about 4-6 times, and you'll feel things move back into place. Also, pull up and release the e-Brake a few times.
I have a 2007 accord coupe, and the brakes are set up identical to yours. Can you explain the part of bringing the calipers back out to be on the pads for me. How did you do that part? Did you take the brake cap off? Did you leave it off while pushing the brakes?
@Sunburn2007 Honda's "high quality pads" and EBD design got them to settle in a class action law suit: "A class-action lawsuit was filed against Honda in Sept 2009 seeking restitution for 750,000 late model Accord and Acura TSX owners. The suit described a design defect in Honda's new Electronic Brake Distribution system which leads to excessive force on the rear brake pads, which results in a vastly reduced lifespan of the pads from 70K to under 20K miles" Pad replacement is nearly annual.
@zulnoon78 Not unless you open the brake lines. Honda recommends changing brake fluid every 3 years. So if your car is 3 years old or older, then change it.
@lakerone2010 Which pads did you use? I just did my wife's front brakes, and used the AutoZone C-Max. The brakes are fine, but the clips that came with the brake kit were rubbing on the rotors. Thankfully I kept the old clips. I installed them and it quit squeaking. If you're up for it, pull a wheel and look at the clips. It'll be really obvious if the clips are rubbing - just look at the sides that face/touch the rotor. If you don't have the old clips, you can bend the existing clips.
Gents - a doitmyselfer in Alpharetta - am going to be doing the rear pads on my fiance's 04 accord soon - the assembly looks a LOT like toyotas disc brake assembly - which I've found some cleanup/work on the caliper pins (replacing the boots) is usually needed to allow the caliper to function evenly. Any experience with that - - - ??
@ZoyaElite You should get some grease. Otherwise, those brakes are gonna squeak! Sometimes it's tough to do something that requires two hands while filming. I need a tripod... :) It's really easy to screw in the piston. Just make note of the orientation first..you can even mark it on the caliper with a sharpie. At first the piston is tough to turn, but once you get it going, it gets easier. Just go all the way in, then back out to make the alignment. Your brakes will be soft - pump em!
@flaminloser The brake system should be similar. Honda is pretty good about being consistent. Since your car is a 2001, you should turn or replace your rotors and lube the sliding pin.
Great video. Curious though that you said it only took 30 minutes to replace pads but @ mark 4:28 on the video it went from bright daylight to night with you using an electrical light (as seen by the yellow power cord).. Thanks for the tip. Now I just have to purchase a floor jack..
What mileage did the rears go out? I'm wondering if they've made improvements to the OEM pads. My C-Max are still going with 25K on them, but I figure they'll be due in another 5-7K. Thanks for watching!
Turn the piston all the way in...then back it off enough to align it. When you pump the brakes for the first few times, it'll go back to where it needs to be. There's some wiggle room, so it doesn't have to be 100% perfect. Just mark the caliper before you start turning it,and line it up with the marks.
Do we need to change the brakes each 20K on the Honda Accord 09? or is it once done ? I have no clue about cars but I already changed my brakes on the 20 K
@limdw90 Yep...it's sad but true. If you still have your documentation, you should be able to receive a reimbursement for some (hopefully all) of your $250. Also, there is a "fix" which involves reversing the slider pins and installing the new pads with V-springs. Call your local Honda dealer and ask about the rear brake update.
@loofahbox Good question...I'll let you know when they wear out. But I'm guessing that it'll far exceed the 15k-20k miles reported by the OEM pads. At that rate, Honda would be changing your rear brakes every one to two years. Unacceptable!
@ManClubAustin Thanks for the info. The accord now has 52K, so the rears were done a while back. Went smooth, but would you believe they need to be done AGAIN! Ridiculous. I even used the "Ceramic" material pads. So what's this "upgrade" to the rears for the 08's I keep hearing about? Is the dealer the only place to get it?
I DID IT ! because of weather conditions i was only granted a sunny sunday and it took me about 1.5 hours. brakes = 30 bucks Piston tool = 6 bucks doing 35 and pulling the the E-brake and coming to a screeching stop..... = pricless
@ManClubAustin yea the civic is awesome, I know this video only pertains to the accord but i just mentioned the civic since they are both honda's that I have owned and similar in maintenance, I uused to have an 01 honda accord which was also very efficient car, it is strange how the 09 accord has that issue.. I dont have any experience with the new accord's but they do look very nice, besides the rear pads wearing out, do you recommend the new accord to people?
@ManClubAustin Yep, same here...01 Civic. Sold it with 90K. Had a good 25% left all the way around. Now have an 08 Accord. only go 18K out of the rear pads. They were wasted.
First timer here.. What lube did you use to lube the area before you put the springs back on, and what lube did you use to lube your caliper pins? Also, I'm lost at the point where you need to screw the piston flush to fit the new brake pads. Did you use the crowbar to do that or the Brake Piston Tool?
He's right, My OEM pads required replacement after 20,000 miles, then replaced it with stock OEM pads. Guess what, they lasted only 20,000 miles exactly, hence the lawsuit that seems to be ongoing. For the third set, I used the Duralast pads he mentions here and I got an easy 50,000 out of them and could probably get 20 more. One thing to note about AutoZone and these pads - Important. If you return them BEFORE you wore them down to the metal, they will replace your pads at no cost!!
great video - I watched a few and this one really summed it up the best for me! (Side note: one person used a C clamp to compress the piston instead) I'm a little confused about this tool... the crowbar is already used to turn the piston. Why not just use the crowbar to turn the piston to the 3-6-9-12?
Is it possible you could damage the ABS system when changing them? Also is it hard pushing the piston back? And could you damage it if you push it to hard?
Im at 30k on my accord and need new rear pads. My rotors look fine I shouldnt be needing to change those right? I had already change my front pads and disks and dont want to buy new disks for the back. Im going to buy the duralasts aswell
Ooh so you have to actually spin or screw the caliper in I was trying to compress it thatis why os was so hard I'll be doing it this week again and my rent the right tool from autozpne for free Great video
thanks for this video, but can i use just a universal brake piston tool or do i have to use the actual tool u used to get the piston flushed back so i can put my new pads back on? and thanks :)
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
It feels like I went back in a time machine watching this video and reading through the comments. Got my '09 Accord two years ago with 170k miles.
I do the maintenance on all of my family's vehicles, I grabbed my C clamp thinking I was going to push my calipers back, what a surprise! I was running late for my sons game and I did not have time to run back to the Auto-Zone for a tool to screw the calipers in. I pulled your video up and saw that you suggested a pry bar if you don.t have the wrench. We'll I made it in time because of you! GREAT VIDEO!
Thanks!!!!!!
Paul
Paulstoolbox
I. ZcP
Tln
You saved me some bucks! I was knocking myself out trying to figure out how to compress the rear piston. Tried an 8" C-clamp but it wouldn't budge. Never occurred to be to screw it back in. Also helped out with the close-up video...Thanks a million!
This solves my problem with my back brakes. I changes the front ones this past fall and save myself about 1 hour of waiting at the Meineke and saved about $215!!! Now i'm going to tackle the back ones and this vid gave me the answer on the tool i needed (brake piston tool). savi ng my self another $200 !!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS ManClubAustin !!!!!!!
you just showed me how to save $225 bucks! (that's what the local shop charges for a simple pad swap) thanks from Northern California.
When I was editing, I realized that I didn't really show the piston alignment in the original footage. So instead of publishing a half ass video, I went back outside at night, pulled the wheel and re-shot the missing parts.
Thanks for the video. Father-In-Law told me about the way in which the piston has to be worked in order to compress it back in position. Wondered about what he was talking about, without this video, I would have been at a loss.
Got 43K on the last set of pads since I took it to the local dealership. These pads are the one since the recall about the low wear on rear brakes.
Thanks from Cedar Park.
May have to look into this. I have an '08 Accord with 65K miles, but the mechanic told me my rotors are worn. This is the 3rd time in 5 years I've had brake issues out of this car (replaced the rear in 10/09, the front in 3/12), and I don't have $200-300 to blow AGAIN. Thanks for this!
I had a hard time figuring out the caliber piston. Thanks to ur video, I bought the tool. Thanks a bunch
Awesome video. Like many other people, I was using a C clamp to try and compress the caliper. Good thing you posted this video or I'd still be outside scratching my head haha
@ManClubAustin thats surprising to hear! I have a 2008 honda civic si coupe and i luv it! bought it brand new early 2008 and it is now march 2011 and im going to be doing my FIRST brake pad and rotor change, amazing they lasted me about 3 yrs! I guess the oem parts for the civic had no issues at all.
Thanks for the video I didn't know how to push back the caliper. Im used to compressing them back in. I used a universal brake kit that I borrowed from Autozone to turn it back. I have a 2010 coupe and got 35000 miles out of my factory rear brake pads.
hey i need to change the rear breaks on my 08 honda accord lx. i bought the brakes already but i didnt get any grease or anything. so far its simple from the video but i wish you had shown the part where to screw the piston. i didnt get any springs with the pad either im goin back to napa....
You can use the 3/8 extension bar in your socket set to turn the caliper clockwise in so that it fits the new pads. I also bought that tool. But I always use the end of my extension bar.
The Honda Accord best brake pads replacement video so far I found.
keep it up :)
Another satisfied DIYer. Just make sure to note the alignment of the piston, mark it, and realign after screwing in the piston.
@bootsiebanty
The rear caliper pistons screw in. Pay attention to the alignment of the "+". The fronts press in. The rotors are held in with screw (factory). You might need an impact driver to get them off. Or you could drill them out. Google search TSB 09-096. Honda released new pads for front/rear. You might be covered under warranty...check with the dealership if you're willing. Good luck!
@Mikeeeie
If you follow the instructions in the video, you won't damage anything. The piston is a bit tough to screw in at first, but once it starts it becomes easier. You'll know when it is all the way in...cuz it stops Just make sure to align it once you've screwed it in all the way.
@bootsiebanty
Once you have the wheel off, remove the brake hose mounting bolt (for added play in the hose). Then remove the two caliper bracket bolts. This will allow you to remove the entire caliper. I usually fashion a wire hanger to support the caliper. Remove the disc screws. The rotor should pull out. If not, there are threaded slots to fit 8x1.25mm bolts to push the disc from the hub.
@ManClubAustin Thanks a lot. I did the front brakes and the rear brakes last weekend with those same exact duralast gold brakes. They are way better than the stock brakes. The stock brakes made queeky noises which were very annoying and embarrasing in a parking lot. Only tooke me about 1 and a half hours to do. Thanks again.
It's good to hear that you got it done in a pinch. Keep DIYing and thanks for watching!
Whats this i hear about needing a tool to release the brake system
@vconnection
No problem...I'm glad you got it! Be sure to check out the other videos I did on lubing the slider pin, and how to change the brake fluid.
Thanks for watching, and as always....keep 'em hangin'!
@vconnection
Are you using a 17MM wrench to steady the slider pin? If not the entire slider pin assembly might be turning.
I just helped a friend do a 2007 Accord sedan last night. The brakes were similar, but not exact. Once you remove the two bolts holding the caliper (12mm and 17mm, if remember correctly), the caliper will slide off, moving towards the rear of the car. Open the brake master cylinder, then screw in the caliper, taking note of its correct orientation. Make sure you align the piston properly! Inspect the rotor, and replace if need be. Lube your sliding pin (search for another vid on that).
@PVoyager
EX-L. The rear brakes are identical across all trim levels.
No worries, man. Yeah, jack from the back and then put jack stands on both sides. Since the hook is kinda high, you might have to put the jack on some bricks or some solid pieces of wood to get enough height to get the tires off and put the jack stands in place.
I'm still rolling on the pads from the video. I think you'll be happy with them...less brake dust and longer life. I'm with you on the rotor thing..let the ceramic pads chew up the rotor, I'm gonna replace them anyway!
Thanks for watching.
@milkywaycenter
I chose to remove the springs to lube them, per the Honda service manual. My rear brakes were very squeaky. It isn't absolutely necessary, but as my dad says, "If you're gonna do something, do it right".
@jtnoodle
It's that EBD system putting a load on the rears to avoid "nose dipping" during braking, coupled with the undersized rear brakes. The Honda "fix" was adding V springs. Hopefully they changed the pad compound a bit too. I don't think it'll help much. I just got the Auto Zone ceramics with lifetime warranty, so I don't need to worry about paying again. But yeah, doing pads every year or 18 months is a drag. I guess we'll just get good at switching them out!
I don't know about an ECU fix....but the AutoZone pads are still on my car. The best thing about them is the lifetime warranty - so I never have to buy them again.
If you have an 2008 or early 2009, check my other vid on the slider pin reversal. This contributed to early rear brake wear.
Sadly, the rear brakes on the Accord are undersized for the car's size/weight.
Noting more satisfying than DIY and saving some cash. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for taking the time to post this. Good info. makes the job easier.
You can use whatever will turn the piston. I've used the end of a pry bar.
I like that caliper retracting tool, reminds me of the puzzle box from Hellraiser! Thanks for posting these informative vids!!!!
What happen if the orientation to the caliper in the parallel
Correctly!? I didn’t make sure just put them new pads on
@nightrider2k6
I came from a 2001 Civic, so I was pretty let down by the Accord's rear brake durability. I think I only changed the brakes once in the Civic, and got 100k miles on that car before it sold. The problem described in the comments and video only pertain to the Accord and TSX (same platform).
@ABDizzy83
The misalignment of the screw in caliper wouldn't turn on the brake/vsa light. Usually a brake light staying on means you're low on brake fluid. Did you check that? Did you disconnect any of the hoses?
If the caliper is left not aligned, it'll just cause uneven wear in the pad....
@itsThuts
It was in the service manual, so I did it. Check out my newer video on lubing the slider pins, too. Lubing the clips is just to keep the brake noise to a minimum.
@vidguy007
It wasn't necessary. I just got sick of the squeaking and the excessive dust. Other Accord drivers have reported rear brakes requiring replacement at approximately 15,000 miles. So think of it as a preemptive strike.
@loofahbox
Nah, I don't think so. I'll post it up if I hit any issues.
@BRuE92
Only one day...the job itself took less than an hour. But good eye - I realized when I was editing the video that some of the shots weren't clear. So instead of posting an incomplete video, I went back out side in the evening and reshot the sequences of lubing and screw caliper piston alignment to make them more clear to the viewers.
You should’ve showed how to use the brake piston tool
Bad ass that people are still watching this. Basically just put the side that fits into the caliper piston and ratchet (screw it) back in. It's threaded, like a bolt
I wonder if those rear rotors will fit the 05 v6 accord
@alainp1020
This question has been asked before...here's my response: "good eye - I realized when I was editing the video that some of the shots weren't clear. So instead of posting an incomplete video, I went back out side in the evening and reshot the sequences of lubing and screw caliper piston alignment to make them more clear to the viewers."
It was thought that the brakes run down early due to inproper factory adjustment of the emergency brake during assembly. Is this possible?
Excellent video! BTW...I'm a Honda owner but I'm saving up to get this exact Accord EX-L....same color too! Thanks for making this video!
@zonebellond123
Yep. We have the same chassis, and the same rear brake issue. Honda has a recall/replacement program on the rear pads. You might check with the Acura dealership to see if they have done the same.
I have an 08 coupe with 48,000 km's and have started noticing this also. Assumed on my schedule maintenance, I would be warned of low brake pad wear, was not, so was a bit of a rude wake up after coming from the shop 1 month ago. Read the manual and it states the OEM brakes have a 'warning' mechanism that says they should be replaced. So do I take it back to honda and haggle over $250 reimbursement, or get the parts and do the work myself, like i did on previous cars?
@Worldwidehomicide
I have an 08 coupe with 48,000 km's and have started noticing this also. Assumed on my schedule maintenance, I would be warned of low brake pad wear, was not, so was a bit of a rude wake up after coming from the shop 1 month ago. Read the manual and it states the OEM brakes have a 'warning' mechanism that says they should be replaced. So do I take it back to honda and haggle over $250 reimbursement, or get the parts and do the work myself, like i did on previous cars?
@Mikeeeie I have a 2007 accord coupe (same body as yours) and I changed my front and rear brakes. They are exactly the same as in this video.
@jtnoodle Okay. So the autozone ceramics come with a lifetime warranty or did you purchase it additionally? I'm pretty sure I got the something-lifetime or other when I did the rears. Can't remember. I do know the fronts which I did yesterday came with a "limited" lifetime warranty. Not sure exactly if that covers normal wear and tear though. Thanks again for the helpful info.
@dencurlene
No, I didn't open the lines. If you're over 30k and/or 3 years, then I would do a full brake fluid flush.
@6824096
Once you've screwed the piston back into the caliper, I'd put the cap back on the brake fluid cap back on. After you get the pads lubed and back on, and everything else in place, lower the car down and start it up. You just need to press the brake pedal all the way down about 4-6 times, and you'll feel things move back into place. Also, pull up and release the e-Brake a few times.
I have a 2007 accord coupe, and the brakes are set up identical to yours. Can you explain the part of bringing the calipers back out to be on the pads for me. How did you do that part? Did you take the brake cap off? Did you leave it off while pushing the brakes?
@Sunburn2007
Honda's "high quality pads" and EBD design got them to settle in a class action law suit:
"A class-action lawsuit was filed against Honda in Sept 2009 seeking restitution for 750,000 late model Accord and Acura TSX owners. The suit described a design defect in Honda's new Electronic Brake Distribution system which leads to excessive force on the rear brake pads, which results in a vastly reduced lifespan of the pads from 70K to under 20K miles"
Pad replacement is nearly annual.
Thanks for your video. I used the same thing you did....a crowbar. But I think I will buy that tool. Boy my brakes was squeaking like crazy.
@zulnoon78
Not unless you open the brake lines.
Honda recommends changing brake fluid every 3 years. So if your car is 3 years old or older, then change it.
@lakerone2010
Which pads did you use? I just did my wife's front brakes, and used the AutoZone C-Max. The brakes are fine, but the clips that came with the brake kit were rubbing on the rotors. Thankfully I kept the old clips. I installed them and it quit squeaking.
If you're up for it, pull a wheel and look at the clips. It'll be really obvious if the clips are rubbing - just look at the sides that face/touch the rotor. If you don't have the old clips, you can bend the existing clips.
Good call on the Hellraiser box. lol.
Thanks for watching.
Is this the same procedure for 2013 Accord? Thx
I wanted to see the caliper tool being used
Gents - a doitmyselfer in Alpharetta - am going to be doing the rear pads on my fiance's 04 accord soon - the assembly looks a LOT like toyotas disc brake assembly - which I've found some cleanup/work on the caliper pins (replacing the boots) is usually needed to allow the caliper to function evenly. Any experience with that - - - ??
@ZoyaElite
You should get some grease. Otherwise, those brakes are gonna squeak! Sometimes it's tough to do something that requires two hands while filming. I need a tripod... :)
It's really easy to screw in the piston. Just make note of the orientation first..you can even mark it on the caliper with a sharpie. At first the piston is tough to turn, but once you get it going, it gets easier. Just go all the way in, then back out to make the alignment. Your brakes will be soft - pump em!
@flaminloser
The brake system should be similar. Honda is pretty good about being consistent. Since your car is a 2001, you should turn or replace your rotors and lube the sliding pin.
Great video. Curious though that you said it only took 30 minutes to replace pads but @ mark 4:28 on the video it went from bright daylight to night with you using an electrical light (as seen by the yellow power cord).. Thanks for the tip. Now I just have to purchase a floor jack..
What mileage did the rears go out? I'm wondering if they've made improvements to the OEM pads. My C-Max are still going with 25K on them, but I figure they'll be due in another 5-7K.
Thanks for watching!
Turn the piston all the way in...then back it off enough to align it. When you pump the brakes for the first few times, it'll go back to where it needs to be. There's some wiggle room, so it doesn't have to be 100% perfect. Just mark the caliper before you start turning it,and line it up with the marks.
@lakerone2010
OK, then scratch the clip idea then. Did you replace the rotors?
I've been hearing the caliper clips that come with the DuraLast pads are too big. FYI
@jtnoodle
Autozone C-Max pads come with a free lifetime warranty. I just did another video on reversing the slider pins...so check it out!
@tbursee
Nah, they only had 4500 miles on them. I will have to replace them next time because the ceramic pads will chew 'em up.
@Mikeeeie
The brake pad swap on the 2003 Accord should be very similar, if not exactly the same. Go for it!
Do we need to change the brakes each 20K on the Honda Accord 09? or is it once done ? I have no clue about cars but I already changed my brakes on the 20 K
@limdw90
Yep...it's sad but true. If you still have your documentation, you should be able to receive a reimbursement for some (hopefully all) of your $250. Also, there is a "fix" which involves reversing the slider pins and installing the new pads with V-springs. Call your local Honda dealer and ask about the rear brake update.
@loofahbox
Good question...I'll let you know when they wear out. But I'm guessing that it'll far exceed the 15k-20k miles reported by the OEM pads. At that rate, Honda would be changing your rear brakes every one to two years. Unacceptable!
thanks for this vid man, i used these instructions on my S2000, seams the breaking system is identical :)
Hey, if we change the rotors to an aftermarket one do we still need to reverse the pin? this is a dumb question i know...
Hey there. This may be a silly question but do we apply the same instruction to the replacement of the front brake pads?
@ManClubAustin Thanks for the info. The accord now has 52K, so the rears were done a while back. Went smooth, but would you believe they need to be done AGAIN! Ridiculous. I even used the "Ceramic" material pads.
So what's this "upgrade" to the rears for the 08's I keep hearing about?
Is the dealer the only place to get it?
Good video, Do you think this would similar to do on a 2003 honda accord coupe?
I DID IT ! because of weather conditions i was only granted a sunny sunday and it took me about 1.5 hours.
brakes = 30 bucks
Piston tool = 6 bucks
doing 35 and pulling the the E-brake and coming to a screeching stop..... = pricless
great video man. i learned what i needed.
Your break pads needed replacing at 4100 miles?
@ManClubAustin yea the civic is awesome, I know this video only pertains to the accord but i just mentioned the civic since they are both honda's that I have owned and similar in maintenance, I uused to have an 01 honda accord which was also very efficient car, it is strange how the 09 accord has that issue.. I dont have any experience with the new accord's but they do look very nice, besides the rear pads wearing out, do you recommend the new accord to people?
@ManClubAustin Yep, same here...01 Civic. Sold it with 90K. Had a good 25% left all the way around.
Now have an 08 Accord. only go 18K out of the rear pads. They were wasted.
First timer here.. What lube did you use to lube the area before you put the springs back on, and what lube did you use to lube your caliper pins? Also, I'm lost at the point where you need to screw the piston flush to fit the new brake pads. Did you use the crowbar to do that or the Brake Piston Tool?
@FH415
Same for the Accord I4, as well as 2009+ Acura TSX.
Would this part # work for a 2009 Honda Accord Coupe LX too? Or just the Ex
WHAT LUBE DO YOU USE ON THE SPRINGS?
He's right, My OEM pads required replacement after 20,000 miles, then replaced it with stock OEM pads. Guess what, they lasted only 20,000 miles exactly, hence the lawsuit that seems to be ongoing. For the third set, I used the Duralast pads he mentions here and I got an easy 50,000 out of them and could probably get 20 more. One thing to note about AutoZone and these pads - Important. If you return them BEFORE you wore them down to the metal, they will replace your pads at no cost!!
THANK YOU.I had TROUBLE pushing in that piston.N
ow i know you have to screw it in clockwise
great video - I watched a few and this one really summed it up the best for me!
(Side note: one person used a C clamp to compress the piston instead)
I'm a little confused about this tool... the crowbar is already used to turn the piston. Why not just use the crowbar to turn the piston to the 3-6-9-12?
Crowbar was a tool of opportunity....then later I showed the tool "designed for the job"
Thanks for watching.
Is it possible you could damage the ABS system when changing them? Also is it hard pushing the piston back? And could you damage it if you push it to hard?
Beautiful job mate thanks 🙏
@ManClubAustin Trust me all you have to lube are the bolts for the caliper and lightly greese the pad's
its very helpful video thanks . u dont have to bleed the brake after finishing the job ?thanks man
Im at 30k on my accord and need new rear pads. My rotors look fine I shouldnt be needing to change those right? I had already change my front pads and disks and dont want to buy new disks for the back. Im going to buy the duralasts aswell
Ooh so you have to actually spin or screw the caliper in I was trying to compress it thatis why os was so hard I'll be doing it this week again and my rent the right tool from autozpne for free
Great video
How to change the front ones and how to change the rotors
+J8Clem
I have a video where I do the Honda Element. The procedure will be the same.
thanks for this video, but can i use just a universal brake piston tool or do i have to use the actual tool u used to get the piston flushed back so i can put my new pads back on? and thanks :)