The brake grease or lubricant that comes with the pads should be applied to the top and bottom portion of the brake pads as well as the metal clips that hold the pads in place. The brake pads slide along the metal clips as you apply your foot to the brake. The piston in the caliper is what pushes the brake pads toward the rotor. Rotors are the big round metal circles that the pads rub against to slow or stop the vehicle. Again, it's very important to lube the top and bottom of the brake pads (the metal parts only) as well as the metal clips that hold the pads in place. I prefer to purchase more brake grease or lubricant in addition to what you get with the pads. It's just easier to apply out of a tube rather than out of the packet that comes with the pads. Plus, the cost of the grease/lube is fairly cheap...only $5 or so. Also, prevent anything from coming into contact with the brake pads...dirty fingers, grease, etc. Try to keep your pads just as clean as they come out of the box. If you do happen to get a bit of dirt from your fingers or grease on the pad, wipe it with a clean cloth before inserting them up against the rotor. It's also a good idea to clean the rotor with a clean cloth (even if you purchase new ones). Some new rotors still contain small metal debris when you remove them out of the box. You don't want metal fragments to get stuck in the pads themselves because they will scratch your rotors.
Braking open the bleeder valve while the brake line hose is pinched off safely also has the benefit of emptying the acidic brake fluid that was in behind the calipers pistons rather than pushing it back through your lines. So if you brake open the bleeder, then IT IS advisable to add new brake fluid into the front reservoir to compensate for the amount bleeded out. This will prolong the life of the brake lines, a leading cause of vehicles being scrapped when older (brake line failure).
You can rent or borrow it for free at your local parts store. A good set it listed here: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IB40L6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1446512883&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=brake+caliper+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=51xp7PCEKgL&ref=plSrch
Thanks for this video it helped a alot! quick question. Im at 20k on my accord and at last oil change my rear breaks were at 3mm so i should change them now. The disc breaks seem really good i tried to feel for any warping or anything else and couldnt find anything so they should be fine correct? Specially at only 20k. Also when you put the two pins back on is there a torque you should be putting them on as or just as tight as you can?
Awesome, thanks for watching. You really should probably measure with a caliper just to be sure. If you're a standard driver, 20k should be ok for the rotors. But you can always measure just to be sure.
I used Duralast gold brakes. It's my daily driver, but you can spend all sorts of money for these brakes. They do have a lifetime warranty and I bought them from Autozone.
good vid, good job. Think of lubricating the caliper pins, torque the caliper fasteners to ~ 20-25 ft-lbs, and I would highly recommend cleaning/antiseizing the little metal brackets (underneath them as well),and anti-seizing the brake pads metal ends. This should enable free movement of the pads in the calipers. Thanks for the video share.
I screwed mine in, it was working until the last little bit , so I just pressed it in the rest of the way, it worked! You pobably shouldn't press it from the start, definitely try screwing it in as much as possible first
Just came from mechanic because my front right brake on Honda civic 2002 wont retract .. he changed the caliper the flex hose the abs cylinder control device..and spent some time bleeding the line, but on way home i still fell it not as free as it should be, what should i look into changing, the main metal brake line to that wheel? and master cylinder? what can still be causing this?
Honestly, I'd bring it back to your mechanic and ask him to look at it again. Perhaps he bled the brakes and there was an issue such as air. Or maybe he didn't pump the brakes at all. I'd check the brake oil cap to see if it's tight first, pump the brakes, and then go to the mechanic if it isn't solid. You did pay for a brake job, but keep us updated!
Thanks Nick, good suggestions above for the viewers. The suggestions that nick suggests will allow the parts to move smoothly as well as make your next brake job easier.
These calipers are not to made to compress they are made to turn in with a vise grip or a wide scraper type screwdriver into that plus shape on the caliper
1) make sure you are on jack stands and not a jack 2) make sure you have all your tools and parts laid out. 3) make sure you start early to give yourself time 4) open up your brake fluid cap, make sure you close it when finishing 5) if you get stuck or frustrated, give yourself a break - everyone starts off not knowing how to do it. Practice!
Now if you choose not to brake open the bleeder valve as in the video above, most of the time all will be well. (symptoms of fail is a continuously spongy brake pedal feel and lower braking capabilities), then the brake fluid that gets pushed back up to the brake cylinder reservoir should not overflow. If it does, the last person who topped it off probably didn't know what they were doing... Brake fluid in the reservoir should not be topped off when it decreases due to pad wear/piston protrusion
Can't believe I forgot to mention the most important part. To protect the Master Cylinder from failing, I would recommend pinching the brake hose with needlenoise vicegrips fitted by rubber hoses on their ends. Then open up the bleeder valve PRIOR to pushing back in the piston. Nothing like a Master Cylinder fail to ruin your day. No bleeding is necessary after this proceedure, and it will protect you master cylinder, which is not designed to have fluid go the other way.
i used a piece of wood from some scraps to compress the piston back in by rotating the piston clockwise. you have to unscrew the brake fluid release valve or whatever its called. the screw with that rubber piece on it to releave the pressure.
That an important detail. Not doing that will result in pressure being applied unevenly to the pad. Also, I could be wrong about this but the piston shouldnt be squeezed on these rear honda calipers... supposed to turn them clockwise using those notches.
Yep. The rear calipers are turned in clockwise using, in this case, the cross pattern. There is a tool for that (the cube, rear brake caliper kit, etc). The reason for this is the parking brake. A little silicone paste between the rubber boot and the piston will help the piston turn if it's sticking on the boot. I think ericthecarguy has a better tutorial for brakes. One thing Eric doesn't talk about is how the caliper slide pins on some vehicles have to have the head or flat spot lined up too. On some vehicles you not only have to have the right pin in the top or bottom but you also have to have the slide pin heads correctly positioned. On others it doesn't matter.
Unfortunately, you can't. The piston twists in and you could use a long screwdriver shaft to turn it. It'd take a while, but you can borrow the tool for free at your local parts store. Often, they require a deposit.
You also don't need a special tool to collapse the piston. With an ordinary C-clamp and your old brake pad, you can place your old brake pad up against the piston and use the C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. Just ensure you turn the C-Clamp slowly to avoid brake fluid rushing back up into the fluid reservoir. Once the piston is collapsed, you'll then be able to fit the caliper over your new brake pads. If you don't collapse the piston, you will find that your calipers will not fit over your new brake shoes.
You are correct, for front brakes. Rear brake pistons on most cars rotate (they are on a screw), requiring the tool to properly push them back in. If you tried the C-clamp method on the rear brakes, you'd either get no where, or you'd ruin your caliper.
The brake grease or lubricant that comes with the pads should be applied to the top and bottom portion of the brake pads as well as the metal clips that hold the pads in place. The brake pads slide along the metal clips as you apply your foot to the brake. The piston in the caliper is what pushes the brake pads toward the rotor. Rotors are the big round metal circles that the pads rub against to slow or stop the vehicle. Again, it's very important to lube the top and bottom of the brake pads (the metal parts only) as well as the metal clips that hold the pads in place. I prefer to purchase more brake grease or lubricant in addition to what you get with the pads. It's just easier to apply out of a tube rather than out of the packet that comes with the pads. Plus, the cost of the grease/lube is fairly cheap...only $5 or so. Also, prevent anything from coming into contact with the brake pads...dirty fingers, grease, etc. Try to keep your pads just as clean as they come out of the box. If you do happen to get a bit of dirt from your fingers or grease on the pad, wipe it with a clean cloth before inserting them up against the rotor. It's also a good idea to clean the rotor with a clean cloth (even if you purchase new ones). Some new rotors still contain small metal debris when you remove them out of the box. You don't want metal fragments to get stuck in the pads themselves because they will scratch your rotors.
just a FYI, the piston "screws" back down(don't try to compress it back down).
thank you
Thank you for that IMPORTANT tidbit lol 😂
I used the long flat end of a crow bar to turn it back in. First time doing it so I had to improvise.
Braking open the bleeder valve while the brake line hose is pinched off safely also has the benefit of emptying the acidic brake fluid that was in behind the calipers pistons rather than pushing it back through your lines. So if you brake open the bleeder, then IT IS advisable to add new brake fluid into the front reservoir to compensate for the amount bleeded out. This will prolong the life of the brake lines, a leading cause of vehicles being scrapped when older (brake line failure).
i like to know what type of tool is tha.! the one u used to compress the caliper
You can rent or borrow it for free at your local parts store.
A good set it listed here:
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IB40L6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1446512883&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=brake+caliper+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=51xp7PCEKgL&ref=plSrch
And you didn't line up the rotating caliper piston with the brake pad dowels. Uneven pressure applied to the brake pads will cause premature wear
i noticed this too, when doing my own brakes. Thanks for the confirming message.
where is the brake pad dowels?
Looks like you didn't put the V springs in to separate the brake pads.
Thanks for this video it helped a alot! quick question. Im at 20k on my accord and at last oil change my rear breaks were at 3mm so i should change them now. The disc breaks seem really good i tried to feel for any warping or anything else and couldnt find anything so they should be fine correct? Specially at only 20k. Also when you put the two pins back on is there a torque you should be putting them on as or just as tight as you can?
Awesome, thanks for watching. You really should probably measure with a caliper just to be sure. If you're a standard driver, 20k should be ok for the rotors. But you can always measure just to be sure.
Also I believe it's 17 ft lbs of torque. I turn it a quarter turn myself and call it good. However, if consult a manual if you have a chance.
I used Duralast gold brakes. It's my daily driver, but you can spend all sorts of money for these brakes. They do have a lifetime warranty and I bought them from Autozone.
good vid, good job. Think of lubricating the caliper pins, torque the caliper fasteners to ~ 20-25 ft-lbs, and I would highly recommend cleaning/antiseizing the little metal brackets (underneath them as well),and anti-seizing the brake pads metal ends. This should enable free movement of the pads in the calipers. Thanks for the video share.
what brand of brake pads you used?
My caliper piston won't go back in. I tried clockwise and it's not going down??
Sometimes, it may be a emergency break that is on - did you end up figuring it out?
I screwed mine in, it was working until the last little bit , so I just pressed it in the rest of the way, it worked!
You pobably shouldn't press it from the start, definitely try screwing it in as much as possible first
@@medoalnaser so you can just clockwise tighten the piston back down w/ a 3/8 drive w/ out compressing it?
Just came from mechanic because my front right brake on Honda civic 2002 wont retract .. he changed the caliper the flex hose the abs cylinder control device..and spent some time bleeding the line, but on way home i still fell it not as free as it should be, what should i look into changing, the main metal brake line to that wheel? and master cylinder? what can still be causing this?
Honestly, I'd bring it back to your mechanic and ask him to look at it again. Perhaps he bled the brakes and there was an issue such as air. Or maybe he didn't pump the brakes at all. I'd check the brake oil cap to see if it's tight first, pump the brakes, and then go to the mechanic if it isn't solid. You did pay for a brake job, but keep us updated!
Thanks Nick, good suggestions above for the viewers. The suggestions that nick suggests will allow the parts to move smoothly as well as make your next brake job easier.
Can you also use a C clamp to push the piston in instead of that tool?
No, DO NOT use a C clamp for the rear brakes. Usually the C clamp is only used for the front brakes
These calipers are not to made to compress they are made to turn in with a vise grip or a wide scraper type screwdriver into that plus shape on the caliper
what kind of pads did you install?
+David Lee duralast golds. In the past, these OEM pads wore down super fast. These have been in my car for the last 70k, highly recommended.
Tips for someone doing this there first time?
1) make sure you are on jack stands and not a jack
2) make sure you have all your tools and parts laid out.
3) make sure you start early to give yourself time
4) open up your brake fluid cap, make sure you close it when finishing
5) if you get stuck or frustrated, give yourself a break - everyone starts off not knowing how to do it. Practice!
Now if you choose not to brake open the bleeder valve as in the video above, most of the time all will be well. (symptoms of fail is a continuously spongy brake pedal feel and lower braking capabilities), then the brake fluid that gets pushed back up to the brake cylinder reservoir should not overflow. If it does, the last person who topped it off probably didn't know what they were doing... Brake fluid in the reservoir should not be topped off when it decreases due to pad wear/piston protrusion
You did not properly align the piston grooves to match the dowels on the inner pad.
Can't believe I forgot to mention the most important part. To protect the Master Cylinder from failing, I would recommend pinching the brake hose with needlenoise vicegrips fitted by rubber hoses on their ends. Then open up the bleeder valve PRIOR to pushing back in the piston. Nothing like a Master Cylinder fail to ruin your day. No bleeding is necessary after this proceedure, and it will protect you master cylinder, which is not designed to have fluid go the other way.
Thanks for posting this. Very helpful.
+Nathan Bonner Awesome, did you get you're brakes changed out?
i used a piece of wood from some scraps to compress the piston back in by rotating the piston clockwise. you have to unscrew the brake fluid release valve or whatever its called. the screw with that rubber piece on it to releave the pressure.
zerk fitting?
Looks like the rear piston wasn't straight up and down. 12-3-6-9 cross position for the pin to fit in properly.
That an important detail. Not doing that will result in pressure being applied unevenly to the pad. Also, I could be wrong about this but the piston shouldnt be squeezed on these rear honda calipers... supposed to turn them clockwise using those notches.
Yep. The rear calipers are turned in clockwise using, in this case, the cross pattern. There is a tool for that (the cube, rear brake caliper kit, etc). The reason for this is the parking brake. A little silicone paste between the rubber boot and the piston will help the piston turn if it's sticking on the boot. I think ericthecarguy has a better tutorial for brakes. One thing Eric doesn't talk about is how the caliper slide pins on some vehicles have to have the head or flat spot lined up too. On some vehicles you not only have to have the right pin in the top or bottom but you also have to have the slide pin heads correctly positioned. On others it doesn't matter.
Unfortunately, you can't. The piston twists in and you could use a long screwdriver shaft to turn it. It'd take a while, but you can borrow the tool for free at your local parts store. Often, they require a deposit.
Great video!
Thanks, glad to have helped!
You also don't need a special tool to collapse the piston. With an ordinary C-clamp and your old brake pad, you can place your old brake pad up against the piston and use the C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. Just ensure you turn the C-Clamp slowly to avoid brake fluid rushing back up into the fluid reservoir. Once the piston is collapsed, you'll then be able to fit the caliper over your new brake pads. If you don't collapse the piston, you will find that your calipers will not fit over your new brake shoes.
You are correct, for front brakes. Rear brake pistons on most cars rotate (they are on a screw), requiring the tool to properly push them back in. If you tried the C-clamp method on the rear brakes, you'd either get no where, or you'd ruin your caliper.
Please change your title to brake pads only. You did not change the rotor, the most important part.
Giant grease stain on the inner pad
Good job !
Yo dude all u gotta do is remove the bottom bolt and the caliper will swing up. Simple.
not this one
I have 220 k on my original brakes and the still have plenty of life left
Wow!
Tres bon video
You OBVIOUSLY don't know what you're talking about!!!!
This guy is a hack. Take what he says at your own risk
I just did brake pads on my Honda Accord 08 and now I have VSA and triangle light on and also ABS light on