I’ve been carrying knives for over 30+ years, i have never had a problem with knives of any type ripping my pants pockets 🤷🏻♂️ Whether it be Zytel, G-10, Grivory, Grytex, Rubber, Bone etc
I’ve never ripped up my pocket either. I can see doing this to Cold Steel knives as they have super aggressive g10 on some models. Spyderco G10 is fine as is in my book…
I just purchased my very first spyderco. A crucarta pm2. It’s ridiculously stiff and no where near being dropshutable. I’m going to loosen the pivot and apply some kpl. But do I really need to disassemble? Can I just get away with a drop between the scales and work it’s way in?
Disassembling helps bc you can get the kpl in certain places better than you could with just putting a drop in, my crucarta pm2 was also extremely stiff, but honestly if you disassemble it, lube it up and then mess around with it it’ll become drop shutty
I can see the scale smoothing but the washer polish is not really all that necessary unless you’re impatient. The washers will brake in after time just like anything mechanical, and your knife will have its own way of breaking in.
I've had mine for 5 days now and after a drop of synthetic motor oil where the washers ride against the blade and about 1k worth of flicking it open and close the blade falls into the resting closed position under it's own weight.
Polishing bronze with a sort o paste like glanol works wanders. I had a copper button which felt like scratching everything each time I pushed it. Gave it a good polish and went buttery smooth.
Thanks for the video! My brand new PM2 from the Knife center is very stiff and is actually hard to open using the spyder hole. I hope these instructions help! I'm a little surprised at the quality control with spyderco. Btw, I just ordered some KPL, thanks again!
@@Clevernautit would have taken a lot of breaking in to get it as smooth as the video instructions did. Now it's very smooth and easy to open like it should have been.
The black DLC Wharncliffe PM2 in CTS-XHP with Orange scales that is exclusive from Cutlery Shoppe's site came to me perfectly centered with already tuned "drop shut" action. I have no need to take it apart unless I drop it in mud or something.
The Wharncliffe blade, like the Tanto and Emerson bladed PM2s, are a little heavier due to thicker blade stock, so they are pretty much using the weight for that "drop shutty" action. The standard PM2s need a little bit of breakin or tuning to get that.
any tricks to get rid of up and down blade play? Been having issues with it for awhile and no matter how I tighten the screws it's still there. Started having it about a month after I got the knife and haven't been able to get rid of it.
Can you help me with my Spyderco PM2 CPM REX45 Copper? What can I do to make it smoother, better and so on? I would also like to get my blade dark grey(acid wash, stonewashed or other ideas), also the hardware, screws, pivot and so on. Maybe nicer backspacers(screws or a raised longer one in G10 or something + a lowride pocket clip. I cary my PM2 and Military original, with the blade down.) Do you know about someone who would take this work? All the best from Thomas, Norway
Also, can you make a detent ramp for smoother closing, where the detent ball just follow up the ramp and falls on place in the hole? And again, would it be better, stronger with Titanium backspacers screws, a short backspacer? And what did you use on the washers? Nano-oil?
I slightly widened the pinch on the spydie clip on my PM2 with G10. It was too tight so i pryed it open so very slightly to make it more releasable from my pocket.
I can't help but wonder if polishing the phosphorus bronze washers causes more drag when opening and closing. Take for instance if you have a pair of vice milling parallels and place them together, when trying to move them they feel stuck together because of the vacuum created in between the two parts. Or is it the fact that there is so little surface area on the washer face that it's negligible and the benefit of a smooth ride outweighs this?
i also thought that the washers were self lubricating in the sense that as the metal wears it becomes its own lubricant. polishing the washer would remove this coating wouldn’t it?
I just spent ten minutes trying to come up with a polite way to say this is overkill lol, to each their own I suppose but sheesh it's a pocket knife not an Italian sports car. Great job though and the video is also very good . I'm sure a great many people with way too much time on their hands have just found their next project. I own a para 2 and it's been nothing but great so i really don't ever see my self doing this but at least now I know how.
A knifes working job is to cut, can you do a video on sharpening the blade and what's the best angles and finish? I used the work sharp ken onion on my para 3 and it's crazy how easy it cuts know compared to the stock grind.
It's crazy, at the price that Spyderco sells its knives that they still need to be optimized. Russian knives, like Cheburkov, don't have these kinds of drawbacks.
What drawbacks? For under 200 bucks Spyderco knife will last 99% of people a lifetime, are there better knives? absolutely but nothing this dude is doing is necessary, my handle is too grippy, that's not a flaw, those Russian knives is baddass not gonna lie but so are Chris Reeves and many other handmade knives but most people don't have 500 to 1000 dollars for a work tool ya know?
@@ScottSimmons68 Lol, I bought a Cheburkov for $300 and it's the best and most beautiful knife in my collection, far ahead of all the much more expensive, ugly American folding knives that work much worse.
There's one problem I see people doing even in this tutorial. Why not lube both sides of each bronze washer? The washer is able to slip on the knife blade and frame both. In case you haven't noticed, the frame is sometimes the smoother side of the washer. For example, a Satin spyderco blade has grind marks that can grab the washer causing the washer to spin with the blade causing slippage at washer-frame. If you want to fine tune a knife..lube both sides of each washer. The knife will take the easiest path of slippage depending several things. Also polishing washers can't be a bad thing but would only work ideal if the opposing surface is smooth. If you notice in the video, the blade has a dlc coating that has worn appearance at the washer area. Dlc is not that smooth on a micro level. Satin blades are not smooth either in a different way. What I'm getting at, if you polish a washer, and use it against that rough blade then check it later. The blade really does a number on the washer. On satin blades you can notice after usage how the high spots of the blade grind has worn some. The blade steel is harder than the washer. It defeats the purpose to do all this work. One benefit of having blades not perfectly smooth like the polished washer would be, is those micro low spots hold lube better. I would think it be awesome if they made a blade that is mirrored smooth @ the washer contact. The scale polishing is a good idea if the scales are unsatisfactory in grip. Great video though. Lube ALL slip points and your golden.
Did you happen to mention that doing this VOIDS your warranty? Also, the editing needs some work. The music in and out far too abrupt, and didn’t really fit the tone of what you were doing. I wonder if you’ve improved since?
As a machinist, hearing a random ceramic tile called "extremely flat" just hurts my brain.
I’ve been carrying knives for over 30+ years, i have never had a problem with knives of any type ripping my pants pockets 🤷🏻♂️
Whether it be Zytel, G-10, Grivory, Grytex, Rubber, Bone etc
The BladeHQ Jade G-10 is significantly more aggressive than Spyderco’s normal textured G-10. Your pockets will not survive😂
I would love to see what the scales would look like with a black rit dye before the sanding. With the green just starting to peak through
I followed these instructions on my pm2 minus the work on the scales and it worked bettet than I could've amagined. Thanx for the video!!
Any gun oil, lubricant works great, a little bit goes a long way.
Fantastic tips!! Thanks for the video and tool recommendations.
Great video!! Thanks
Keep them coming.
Thanks Ken! Will do.
Great video! I picked up KPL Heavy and Light at Blade Show 2019. Your product is excellent 😎👍
Just put scales on my first PM 2 and it feels like garbage now. I think what you have taught us in this vid will help me a ton. THANK YOU.
Why does it feel like garbage?
I've had a PM2 in my pocket since the first year they came out never have i had a pair of pants wore out like the picture you have....WTF
Ive carried one every day for 5 years. No problems indeed
he’s just an ocd ridden idiot
3 years of carrying a pm2 m-t and idk with he's talking about😅😅😅😅😅😅
Scales are fine.
Hi, this vid was very helpful, and I was able to finally buy one of those tools for the lanyard tube removal.
I’ve never ripped up my pocket either. I can see doing this to Cold Steel knives as they have super aggressive g10 on some models. Spyderco G10 is fine as is in my book…
Thanks for the awesome video, could you please provide a link on the .5 diamond spay compound that your were using on the washers.
I just purchased my very first spyderco. A crucarta pm2. It’s ridiculously stiff and no where near being dropshutable. I’m going to loosen the pivot and apply some kpl. But do I really need to disassemble? Can I just get away with a drop between the scales and work it’s way in?
Disassembling helps bc you can get the kpl in certain places better than you could with just putting a drop in, my crucarta pm2 was also extremely stiff, but honestly if you disassemble it, lube it up and then mess around with it it’ll become drop shutty
plus there could be dirt or some other crud you need to clean before applying the kpl
I can see the scale smoothing but the washer polish is not really all that necessary unless you’re impatient. The washers will brake in after time just like anything mechanical, and your knife will have its own way of breaking in.
I've had mine for 5 days now and after a drop of synthetic motor oil where the washers ride against the blade and about 1k worth of flicking it open and close the blade falls into the resting closed position under it's own weight.
Polishing bronze with a sort o paste like glanol works wanders. I had a copper button which felt like scratching everything each time I pushed it. Gave it a good polish and went buttery smooth.
Thanks for the video! My brand new PM2 from the Knife center is very stiff and is actually hard to open using the spyder hole. I hope these instructions help! I'm a little surprised at the quality control with spyderco. Btw, I just ordered some KPL, thanks again!
Mine is the same pm3 maxamet it was great untill I put in new washers and ti hardware now it sucks
Doesn’t it have to brake in?
@@Clevernautit would have taken a lot of breaking in to get it as smooth as the video instructions did. Now it's very smooth and easy to open like it should have been.
And the lube works excellent
@@Luke-pb4pc how did it turn out? I have the same problem
The black DLC Wharncliffe PM2 in CTS-XHP with Orange scales that is exclusive from Cutlery Shoppe's site came to me perfectly centered with already tuned "drop shut" action.
I have no need to take it apart unless I drop it in mud or something.
The Wharncliffe blade, like the Tanto and Emerson bladed PM2s, are a little heavier due to thicker blade stock, so they are pretty much using the weight for that "drop shutty" action. The standard PM2s need a little bit of breakin or tuning to get that.
I use the Heavy KPL & the Original KPL on all my knives, great products. Thanks KPL!!
I can't wait to try this on my Para 3!
Wow, great video! Seriously though, I liked it and I love my KPL in ALL my knives.
please show maintenance para 3 lightweight!
Wow after getting my m4 Tanto PM2 in DLC and being a little upset about the action, I have now a small project to upgrade it! Super stoked my friend!!
Go for it!
results?
I have 1,3 and 6 miron diamond paste can i use one of those for the 1st polishing of the washers and then finish with the .5
any tricks to get rid of up and down blade play? Been having issues with it for awhile and no matter how I tighten the screws it's still there. Started having it about a month after I got the knife and haven't been able to get rid of it.
Chill out with the music. Too loud
Can you help me with my Spyderco PM2 CPM REX45 Copper? What can I do to make it smoother, better and so on? I would also like to get my blade dark grey(acid wash, stonewashed or other ideas), also the hardware, screws, pivot and so on. Maybe nicer backspacers(screws or a raised longer one in G10 or something + a lowride pocket clip. I cary my PM2 and Military original, with the blade down.) Do you know about someone who would take this work? All the best from Thomas, Norway
Also, can you make a detent ramp for smoother closing, where the detent ball just follow up the ramp and falls on place in the hole? And again, would it be better, stronger with Titanium backspacers screws, a short backspacer? And what did you use on the washers? Nano-oil?
I took my Pm2 apart to customize and now the lock sticks. Any ideal how to fix that
I slightly widened the pinch on the spydie clip on my PM2 with G10. It was too tight so i pryed it open so very slightly to make it more releasable from my pocket.
Nice - I have to do that on occasion as well.
I want to ask soemething. Is it possible to polish those 2 washers by using fine water sand paper like 1000 grit or more ?
0.5 micron is equivalent to like 50,000 grit. So if you want a mirror polish you need something very fine
Where did you get your wiha set the set in the description isn’t like the one you have
Do u polish both sides of the Washers or just the one sidr
About how long did you polish the washers? And why did you change direction on the polish?
It only took me about 3 min. I polish in all directions to avoid creating a sloped profile to the washer.
I tried doing this quiz my Para3 but it still take some force to close with no blade play. Any suggestions?
Hi, where did you purchase that driver?
I can't help but wonder if polishing the phosphorus bronze washers causes more drag when opening and closing.
Take for instance if you have a pair of vice milling parallels and place them together, when trying to move them they feel stuck together because of the vacuum created in between the two parts.
Or is it the fact that there is so little surface area on the washer face that it's negligible and the benefit of a smooth ride outweighs this?
i also thought that the washers were self lubricating in the sense that as the metal wears it becomes its own lubricant. polishing the washer would remove this coating wouldn’t it?
Bought two bottles KPL . Good stuff!
THanks John!!
full size griptilian with standard scales is really no joke when it comes down to your jeans pocket haha.
Hello, did you polish only one side of washers that goes on blade and lube only that side, right?
I do only polish one side!
First time I've ever heard a pocket clip referred to as a tail clip! Those "bushings" are called called standoffs!
I also knock off the corners on the scales a bit. From the factory they're very square.
Imho, it's the dlc blade, that needs polishing, where the pb washers sit,,,
Great video
Thanks!
I just spent ten minutes trying to come up with a polite way to say this is overkill lol, to each their own I suppose but sheesh it's a pocket knife not an Italian sports car. Great job though and the video is also very good . I'm sure a great many people with way too much time on their hands have just found their next project. I own a para 2 and it's been nothing but great so i really don't ever see my self doing this but at least now I know how.
A knifes working job is to cut, can you do a video on sharpening the blade and what's the best angles and finish? I used the work sharp ken onion on my para 3 and it's crazy how easy it cuts know compared to the stock grind.
Not sure what to make of this channel. Sometimes seems ridiculously over-the-top other time seems legit. I'm a keep watching though.
Nice video
🔥
Maybe not stainless liner my rusted s45vn pm2
It's crazy, at the price that Spyderco sells its knives that they still need to be optimized.
Russian knives, like Cheburkov, don't have these kinds of drawbacks.
Those knives need nothing, take it out of the box and put it in your pocket, this dude is anal , probably cleans everything he's about to cut lol
@@ScottSimmons68 The value for money at Spyderco is disastrous as is at Extrema Ratio.
What drawbacks? For under 200 bucks Spyderco knife will last 99% of people a lifetime, are there better knives? absolutely but nothing this dude is doing is necessary, my handle is too grippy, that's not a flaw, those Russian knives is baddass not gonna lie but so are Chris Reeves and many other handmade knives but most people don't have 500 to 1000 dollars for a work tool ya know?
@@ScottSimmons68 Lol, I bought a Cheburkov for $300 and it's the best and most beautiful knife in my collection, far ahead of all the much more expensive, ugly American folding knives that work much worse.
Ok I get it you're not a Spyderco fan, you don't have to be, good grief
Can you tell me the name and give me an email where you bought that good high quality bit set .
Did he ever respond? I have the same question...
Hi Pat and Johnny - the bit set came from Curknives - www.curknivesandtool.com/password - also check out journeytoolco.com/
This is the CQI version
Lock stick on compression lick is real! Music is annoying. Thanks
Can leave well enough alone
Too bad the pm2 doesnt have ceramic detent
My handles get smother with use and time same as the action. You just made a new knife a used knife without using it.
Lmao at that camera angle carefully not showing the wheel fitment
Where can you get those scales?
Those scales came with the knife - its an exclusive from BladeHQ.
There's one problem I see people doing even in this tutorial. Why not lube both sides of each bronze washer? The washer is able to slip on the knife blade and frame both. In case you haven't noticed, the frame is sometimes the smoother side of the washer. For example, a Satin spyderco blade has grind marks that can grab the washer causing the washer to spin with the blade causing slippage at washer-frame.
If you want to fine tune a knife..lube both sides of each washer. The knife will take the easiest path of slippage depending several things. Also polishing washers can't be a bad thing but would only work ideal if the opposing surface is smooth. If you notice in the video, the blade has a dlc coating that has worn appearance at the washer area. Dlc is not that smooth on a micro level. Satin blades are not smooth either in a different way. What I'm getting at, if you polish a washer, and use it against that rough blade then check it later. The blade really does a number on the washer. On satin blades you can notice after usage how the high spots of the blade grind has worn some. The blade steel is harder than the washer. It defeats the purpose to do all this work. One benefit of having blades not perfectly smooth like the polished washer would be, is those micro low spots hold lube better. I would think it be awesome if they made a blade that is mirrored smooth @ the washer contact.
The scale polishing is a good idea if the scales are unsatisfactory in grip. Great video though. Lube ALL slip points and your golden.
man it sure would be nice if it didn't cost 60 USD to ship this tiny bottle to new zealand
No need for the Lanyard Tools. Put the Scales in the freezer then those metal sleeves will shrink... your welcome!
ME -> What a waste of time!(proceeds to do everything in the video).
my misokinesia hates this.... GRRR...
Knife wizardry!!
Magic!
Did you happen to mention that doing this VOIDS your warranty? Also, the editing needs some work. The music in and out far too abrupt, and didn’t really fit the tone of what you were doing. I wonder if you’ve improved since?
Solutions to problems nobody has
🤣
Looks like that knife has barely been used
Spyderco…king of the crappiest clip
Your opinion is irrelevant
@@HamBone86 so is your mom, but that doesn’t stop the neighbors from taking their turn.
That’s a benchmade