I just got a PM2 (actually got 2!) for Christmas and I think I might do it exactly like this! Except with a RGT plain flat stonewashed clip, and the MiniHex scales are out of stock. They only have the convex hex not the concave hex so Im fine with that. Love that backspacer and the better screws really make a difference visually!
I ended up doing exactly that. Got the convex hex scales and I actually like them more. The stonewash on them is really nice. This backspacer is 🔥 too! Got the flat Ti clip, these screws/hardware, etc and its a really nice knife. Thanks for putting me in the right direction!
Looks great, the maxamet steel is also known to warp a little in the manufacturing process and that could also be why your not getting perfect blade centering
Pretty sure it was, yep... But to be fair Spyderco has also been known to get uneven blade grinds. Like they just completely botch one side of the blade and it makes it look off centered when it's really not. Seen a bunch of them like that.
Wanted to do that exact build on my maximum a little ways back but never got around to it. Did my Shaman in full Ti instead. Plus didn’t want to buy the lanyard removing tool from Sharp Dressed Knives. Will do eventually.
To be honest you don't need the tool, it just makes it easier. Once the screws are removed you just work the scale back and forth up and down slowly until the tube lets go of it. And I highly recommend using the rockscales spacer after that so you don't have to mess with it again, but if you want a regular lanyard tube you can always flare the tube again to ge ta factory style fit.
I built the exact same build. Except I got the rasied hex scales , and all ti hardware and Same clip you got . My action is great but the titanium is making the compression lock stick . Oh listen to him about bits !
Bro PM2's are just prone to sticking, it's what they do...lol. try this, it may or may not work but any effort is worth pursuing... Put a tiny dab of oil on the stop pin between where the lock engages with the stop pin. This could go either way, it might make the stick worse or it might completely fix it. It's still the most effective way I found to stop the stick and its reversible with a cleaning if it doesnt work.
@@knifeknerdreviews4609 oil just makes them stick worse . Ima put the factory stop pin back in I'll be fine . I've got 8 knives with compression locks and 2 stick only one is bad thats the one I put titanium hardware (TI stop pin), So Im cool with that ratio.
@@ryanjennings6541 Not always... I have had that drop of oil completely remove bad lockstick in at least 3 or 4 Spydies... All I'm saying is don't rule it out as a part of your testing. And yeah the Titanium stop pin usually is worse then the steel.
Hey whatever works oil usually maked mine stick hard until it was gone lockbars also heavy and thin weights. I prefer dry Carbon that normally what works for me and any lock stick. Kinda lost site of why I commented 😅 mainly Your PM2 is cool !
@@ryanjennings6541 I hope I was being clear, you only want oil on the stop pin side, Not the lock face side, that will absolutely make the stick worse. Its the stop pin side only.
I’ve heard that maxamet is chippy. If you are cutting only cardboard I don’t think you’ll have a bad experience. But have you had any issue? And you are so correct about Wiha. 😁
That knife came out really good. Those scales are hot! Awesome job
Bro it looks incredible! Gonna have to do the same
Thankyou, it certainly makes the PM2 more loveable.
Good video
I just got a PM2 (actually got 2!) for Christmas and I think I might do it exactly like this! Except with a RGT plain flat stonewashed clip, and the MiniHex scales are out of stock. They only have the convex hex not the concave hex so Im fine with that. Love that backspacer and the better screws really make a difference visually!
Its a good project, really converts it to a better overall knife.
I ended up doing exactly that. Got the convex hex scales and I actually like them more. The stonewash on them is really nice. This backspacer is 🔥 too! Got the flat Ti clip, these screws/hardware, etc and its a really nice knife.
Thanks for putting me in the right direction!
If I do a titanium scales knife on sharp rocks, will it make sharp indentation on the scales?
Looks great, the maxamet steel is also known to warp a little in the manufacturing process and that could also be why your not getting perfect blade centering
Pretty sure it was, yep... But to be fair Spyderco has also been known to get uneven blade grinds. Like they just completely botch one side of the blade and it makes it look off centered when it's really not. Seen a bunch of them like that.
@@knifeknerdreviews4609 it’s really unfortunate too because they are expensive and good quality when you get a good one
What is that machined torx driver you have there?
I’d like to know this also
What are the scale brand you used on the para 3 in this video?
@@usfholland11 Rockscale Designs.
hello
i dont understand why spyderco and other brands, put very short axle screw on folding knives... it s a mistake for me.
What is the flashlight in the video thumbnail?
Reylight Pineapple Mini TI.
Where can I find that clip?
Thank you!
@@jghernandezsalazar Its an MXG Gear Clip.
What’s the scale finish?
That Para 3 at 16:45 looks awesome. I'm guessing you got the Ti hexi scales from Rockscale Design, but how were you able to black them out?
Its a blackened titanium process involving a torch and some wd40. Risky procedure that takes some practice.
@@knifeknerdreviews4609 Thanks for the info. What about the blade? Was that just a black blade that was heavily used?
@@jwlok227 No it was a Maximet blade that I acid stonewashed.
Wanted to do that exact build on my maximum a little ways back but never got around to it. Did my Shaman in full Ti instead. Plus didn’t want to buy the lanyard removing tool from Sharp Dressed Knives. Will do eventually.
To be honest you don't need the tool, it just makes it easier. Once the screws are removed you just work the scale back and forth up and down slowly until the tube lets go of it. And I highly recommend using the rockscales spacer after that so you don't have to mess with it again, but if you want a regular lanyard tube you can always flare the tube again to ge ta factory style fit.
@@knifeknerdreviews4609 Thank you so much for the info.
How do I get into this FB group
I built the exact same build. Except I got the rasied hex scales , and all ti hardware and Same clip you got . My action is great but the titanium is making the compression lock stick .
Oh listen to him about bits !
Bro PM2's are just prone to sticking, it's what they do...lol. try this, it may or may not work but any effort is worth pursuing... Put a tiny dab of oil on the stop pin between where the lock engages with the stop pin. This could go either way, it might make the stick worse or it might completely fix it. It's still the most effective way I found to stop the stick and its reversible with a cleaning if it doesnt work.
@@knifeknerdreviews4609 oil just makes them stick worse . Ima put the factory stop pin back in I'll be fine . I've got 8 knives with compression locks and 2 stick only one is bad thats the one I put titanium hardware (TI stop pin), So Im cool with that ratio.
@@ryanjennings6541 Not always... I have had that drop of oil completely remove bad lockstick in at least 3 or 4 Spydies... All I'm saying is don't rule it out as a part of your testing. And yeah the Titanium stop pin usually is worse then the steel.
Hey whatever works oil usually maked mine stick hard until it was gone lockbars also heavy and thin weights. I prefer dry Carbon that normally what works for me and any lock stick. Kinda lost site of why I commented 😅 mainly Your PM2 is cool !
@@ryanjennings6541 I hope I was being clear, you only want oil on the stop pin side, Not the lock face side, that will absolutely make the stick worse. Its the stop pin side only.
I’ve heard that maxamet is chippy. If you are cutting only cardboard I don’t think you’ll have a bad experience. But have you had any issue? And you are so correct about Wiha. 😁
Your pm2 seems to flick open so loosely mine is new and I can’t even do a middle finger flick.
Turned it into a honey badger
BarclayCNC and MetonBoss makes a lot nicer scales. Also Loctite will work perfectly fine without cleaning your screws in alcohol.
Yeah wrong. But you're entitled to your wrong opinion. 😅
Use a vise.
A vise to assemble a knife?
Lmso saying you need wiha😂😂😂
Use whatever you want buddy, some people need to learn the hard way.
Wtf it's a D shaped pivot😂😂
fuck me they are fab
Send invite