Another method of replacing the Halogen bulb ,,Saves Energy by replacing the old Halogen Bulb with the New Silicone r7s LED Lamp,, ruclips.net/video/5hBjz0wy6oI/видео.html
Man, I love that music. It really got into my head and I couldn't get it out. So great. Just took an entire shower, shaved, and dressed with it still cracking along in me head. Now I'm heading out to give a critical business presentation. I'm so glad I'll have this non-distracting song pounding in my brain to help me concentrate and deliver that super important, career changing presentation.
I like the halogen bulbs. They provide light and heat. Working with a 500w overhead or close by lengthens my garage shop season for quick repairs on cold days.
After the conversion, I like to recycle items. The Halogen bulb works as a great sharpening stone for blades of all types. The quartz bulb has a smooth but pebbled surface that retains its honing capability after repeated use due to quartz is high on the hardness scale. It doesn't matter if the filament burnt out or not. I try to find some type of end cap to cover the ends with.
I always tend to mount the chip on a piece of aluminium plate (3-4mm thick) at the base of the casing to improve heat dissipation, especially with the chips that have the built in driver. I use a file to ensure it's perfectly flat so the entire chip is in contact with it. Also allows the thermal paste to work better. I also tend to cut a section out of the reflector where the chip/aluminium plate is going to be mounted
Cooling looks questionable. You could improve it significantly by flattening the reflector dimples in the mounting area on a steel surface with a hammer. Normally you would want to use about 5% of the heat sink compound shown here - wipe it around flat. Metal to metal contact is far superior to compound. The compound is only intended to fill in microscopic air gaps - as it is more thermally conductive than air.
You can just buy an led replacement for those off amazon. They make plug in swappable bulbs in the same size now. I just swapped over all of my shop lights a couple months ago.
Luk, I don't mind saying that EVERYTHING involved in reforming the reflective backing was UNNECESSARY! All you had to do was to put the metal bracket back in place after disconnecting the wires and bulb receptacle ends. In addition to saving you bunch of hassle, the lamp itself would be more forward in the housing, and thereby shedding brighter light over a wider arc.
The heat sinking capacity of the casing would be greatly reduced by that, and you need every bit of heat sink possible for these very hot LEDs. You could put a piece of aluminum or copper back there.
Always use a rag/clean cloth to handle halogen bulbs, even if you wont be reusing it! if it breaks when removing it can slice your fingers bad as well as send small fragments flying many time they break when removing bad bulbs :)
Hey thanks man with your vidéo a replace 2 halogenes lights in a mushroom party light with 2 led chip and it work very well!! now no more expensive halogenes lights to buy!!thanks
This a great way to convert an old workshop or outdoor floodlight to save Power & $$off your electric bill By Converting your old lights to LED. And these are the latest type of LED. At the current price of about $2 each for 30W Cob LED's, I just bought 5 for under $10 off EBay. For those who don't understand. You are replacing either a 1000w or 500W Old Fitting that uses a Quartz Halogen bulb that costs heaps to run and provides lots of heat. Which is wasted energy at current prices.... Who needs that. It should be noted that these LED's do get HOT & a good Aluminum Heat Sink & heat sink compound will assist in the longevity of these LED's. Probably a couple of holes on either side would assist with the air flow to assist cooling The AC Green Ground wire should remain connected to the Chassis fitting for safety in case the live wire falls off inside. This will cause the power point fuse to blow. Which is really not that different than the original Quartz lamp connections. You could use silastic to hold / support the AC wires if you want additional safety. This New LED Technology does not require a separate regulated power supply as Other LED Replacement types do. The on board chips are supposed to limit the current. But it actually spreads the full 240v ac across all the individual tiny LED's in the cluster. 3-4v each Unfortunately this also allows the LED to flicker at the line frequency or 50 or 60hz. Because of the switching at the zero crossover point of the AC sign wave. The Camera does pick this up easily as it clashes with the frame rate of the camera. But if you are only using the light as a Floodlight then you really won't notice any flicker. It's called persistence of vision. The old CRT Televisions that we watched for years used to flicker at this rate also. The uninitiated wont recognise the amazing technology behind these new devices. Cheers An Old Electronics Tech
Good and accurate explanation, I too am old tech, years ago a white light emitting high power diode was sort of like the Holy Grail, times have changed. I remember vacuum tubes 🤣
I saw this conversion. I liked the idea. I have two of these style outdoor lamps, which constantly burn out the halogen bulbs or the holders get damaged from the heat and the fixture has to be replaced. Either way they fail. So I found these modules on eBay and bought several at under $2.00 USD each. I dismantled the fixtures and had to grind off all the old mounting hardware mounting tabs in the aluminum castings. That provided a flat surface on the inside of the case. I then flattened the reflector to allow two of the 50 Watt 120V modules just like this example, but two wide. I centered them on either side of center to allow the most heat transfer to the case. To ensure the modules didn't burn up, I added silver heat sink compound you use for CPU mounting. I placed the paste between the case and the reflector, and again between the module and the reflector. 10G of the past was about $6.00 on eBay. I then wired them up. The results are good, but nowhere near the "sport court" level of light output of a single 500 Watt halogen light. I measured the current draw and it's about 60 Watts. I also measured the case temperature and it gets to about 130 degrees F, which is less than the case did with a 500 Watt halogen lamp. So to put it in perspective I replaced two halogen fixtures, with 4 50W modules and went from 1000 Watts to about 120 Watts. It's adequate light to see what you're doing in the yard. Hopefully they will hold up for a while and I won't be climbing up and replacing the lights or fixtures. They make a single 100W LED module, but the cost for a single 100W module was more than 2, 50W modules. They also make larger modules, 150W or 200W but I would be cautious, as the case may not be able to dissipate the heat generated by larger output modules. This is an interesting hack.. Not too difficult to do.
this conversion is great I have several of them cob chip does not need reflector as all light shines forward and have a set angle I use 1/8" aluminum sheet to form mount for chip rivet or screw to lamp housing to disperse heat use heat shrink on wires up to solder point unlike halogen bulbs leds run cool, will work in any position, do not quit if you drop them, brighter, use less juice last, 1000's of hours, and chips are cheap and come in 20-100 watts, i'll never buy another halogen bulb btw your background noise is irritating
Hi Matthew,for a 20-30 watt led, the flood light housing is enough. the housing is made of aluminum with small ribs that emanates the heat of a small led
casey armstrong, LED lights do not produce that much heat; not enough to worry about melting the wires. That’s the beauty of LED lighting; they run cool all the time.
If he will only use the lamp with a motion detector, this is not a problem. It can cause problems with longer use. I would just buy a new lamp or replace the bulb with an r7s led module.
The aluminum case is not large enough and thick enough to absorb and dissipate the heat from a 50w LED. 20w be about the limit. Instead of crapping out the reflector to lower it, you could have cut out the bottom of it, added in a thick piece of aluminum plate to the flat bottom inside of the casing. (Use thermal past both sides of the plate). This would have made a higher surface to mount the chip and would be flush with that tin reflector bottom. Also by adding that thick AL plate you might be able to safely bump the LED power up to 30w . Optionally that shitty reflector could have been tossed if you was to buy/install a reflector/lens kit to create a nice focused beam
You're right. But this Floodlight has GND connected. Between 1:30 and 1:50 minutes, it is noted that the earthing cable is attached to the housing. you can also see the symbol of the GND erth BE CAREFUL , SAFETY FIRST . Do not use sockets without the grounding circuit
He didn’t touch the halogen ON THE ENDS. I’ve just learned that if you touch the glass, it will hurt the light due to you sticky fingers and makes the heat concentrate and ware out faster.
Quick question, I didn't see a ground cable to the case I might be wrong? If the solder join cracks on the cables they will make the whole light a deathtrap if there is no ground I would use epoxy over the soldered cable to the Cob chip.
will the aluminium/steel housing be able to handle the heat? im thinking of doing the same but with a 100w chip. im guessing ill need a heatsink + fan for that.
Hi Micke Excuses for delay The aluminum housing barely cope at 50w. If you want to put 100w, you need to find an extra cooling cooler plus a fan, otherwise the led will fry.
Save your Time and Money, this retrofit, doesn’t provide a good Heat Sink for the LED, and it won’t last long. My Neighbor, replaced his outside Halogen, with the LED Lamps, after seeing my new LED Flood Lights form e-conolights. He didn’t want to pay the money for the fixtures. None of his retrofits lasted a year. Also I think his old fixtures leaked in moisture.
I think the aluminum case would provide enough heat sink but the heat transfer in this method probably not good enough. I would fix a solid block of aluminum in the back of the case and fix the module directly to it. Cut a hole in the reflector so it fits around the block plus led.
+Shanon Bull You think he was gluing it to the case? I was thinking that he was using heat sink compound to provide a better thermal connection to the case.
The circuit is thermally protected, but that means if it gets too hot, it won't be as bright, so the bigger the heat sink, the brighter it is. However, running it without any heat sink is not recommended (and pointless)
Oh, the case and reflector give plenty of cooling, provided you don't put more than maybe 30W of LED power in. And 30W is already a ton more light than a 150W halogen.
Even though LEDs are much more efficient than tungsten filament lamps, the luminous efficiency is still less than 60%. About 40-50% of the energy you put into them is dissipated as heat...
Great Job buddy! I want to do my set of lights, they are a pair instead and I’m not sure what led should I buy or if I have to do something different. Would you please help me out, I really will appreciated. Keep up the good work. Thanks...
I've done this before they don't seem to last very well the way he did it trick I figured out is I go get a heat sink off of a CPU out of a old computer use heat sink paste and assemble it last a long time had one for over a year now and no problems
Re: Mount LED assembly direct to case to increase heat transfer, cut reflector as needed. YEP.. that's what I would do..As with using thermal paste with a CPU/ GPU you what the surface as flat as possible...using the least amount of thermal paste.
How is the led chip doing? Because it seems that the Halogen Lamp is a 200W-400W max, And the heat of a 50W LED Chip is really massive! Is it still functional? The problem is that the 50W almost needs a fan to coold it down!
I have to light up a 3 x 2 1/2 banner, I was gonna use 5050 led strips, for it's all I have at the moment, just to give it "some small light", maybe I can use something stronger, but not to strong..
@@CMCdiycool thanks 👍 I actually built a trailer for my motorcycle 12v power supply, banners in the back. It's starting to look like a vehicle from Disneys light parade
I tried this months ago with and without a heat sink both times the driverless LED blow the RCD and the Breaker. I’ve tried other things with these LED’s and I find them to be total Chinese CRAP!
These days you can get LED bulbs that are the same size as the old halogen bulbs and you can just swap the old halogen bulb for a new LED one without having to do any electrical work.
You obviously no nothing about IP ratings and what they are for. Looks like a complete death trap with no earth connection. Its just waiting for some unsuspecting guy to touch it. Dereadful music kill it and try talking.
Another method of replacing the Halogen bulb
,,Saves Energy by replacing the old Halogen Bulb with the New Silicone r7s LED Lamp,,
ruclips.net/video/5hBjz0wy6oI/видео.html
Man, I love that music. It really got into my head and I couldn't get it out. So great. Just took an entire shower, shaved, and dressed with it still cracking along in me head. Now I'm heading out to give a critical business presentation. I'm so glad I'll have this non-distracting song pounding in my brain to help me concentrate and deliver that super important, career changing presentation.
so cool
I like the halogen bulbs. They provide light and heat. Working with a 500w overhead or close by lengthens my garage shop season for quick repairs on cold days.
After the conversion, I like to recycle items. The Halogen bulb works as a great sharpening stone for blades of all types. The quartz bulb has a smooth but pebbled surface that retains its honing capability after repeated use due to quartz is high on the hardness scale. It doesn't matter if the filament burnt out or not. I try to find some type of end cap to cover the ends with.
I always tend to mount the chip on a piece of aluminium plate (3-4mm thick) at the base of the casing to improve heat dissipation, especially with the chips that have the built in driver. I use a file to ensure it's perfectly flat so the entire chip is in contact with it. Also allows the thermal paste to work better. I also tend to cut a section out of the reflector where the chip/aluminium plate is going to be mounted
Cooling looks questionable. You could improve it significantly by flattening the reflector dimples in the mounting area on a steel surface with a hammer. Normally you would want to use about 5% of the heat sink compound shown here - wipe it around flat. Metal to metal contact is far superior to compound. The compound is only intended to fill in microscopic air gaps - as it is more thermally conductive than air.
You can just buy an led replacement for those off amazon. They make plug in swappable bulbs in the same size now. I just swapped over all of my shop lights a couple months ago.
How are they listed, thanks
You can buy a factory LED light for the cost of direct replacement for halogen bulb
Thank you for the excellent example
Everybody else can do whatever they want
Luk, I don't mind saying that EVERYTHING involved in reforming the reflective backing was UNNECESSARY! All you had to do was to put the metal bracket back in place after disconnecting the wires and bulb receptacle ends. In addition to saving you bunch of hassle, the lamp itself would be more forward in the housing, and thereby shedding brighter light over a wider arc.
The heat sinking capacity of the casing would be greatly reduced by that, and you need every bit of heat sink possible for these very hot LEDs. You could put a piece of aluminum or copper back there.
The music is a bit hard to listen to .
Drove me mad . but still gave it a thumbs up .
Yes. What kind off music is that? Werry shity. Fuck people who lisn this crap
हेलो आपके नंबर भेजो
Always use a rag/clean cloth to handle halogen bulbs, even if you wont be reusing it! if it breaks when removing it can slice your fingers bad as well as send small fragments flying
many time they break when removing bad bulbs :)
Correct! The halogen bulb is PRESSURIZED !
Try IPA to clean the glass prior to power-up. It's redundant sometimes but an easy practice.
The original design and safety aspects of this unit were poor to start with, your upgrade took these features to a whole new level!
Doug F op
Let's see what all you negative feedbacker's have done,,, I thought so
@@e.h.lipton73 sit down son
Hey thanks man with your vidéo a replace 2 halogenes lights in a mushroom party light with 2 led chip and it work very well!! now no more expensive halogenes lights to buy!!thanks
This a great way to convert an old workshop or outdoor floodlight to save Power & $$off your electric bill
By Converting your old lights to LED. And these are the latest type of LED.
At the current price of about $2 each for 30W Cob LED's, I just bought 5 for under $10 off EBay.
For those who don't understand. You are replacing either a 1000w or 500W Old Fitting that uses a Quartz Halogen bulb that costs heaps to run and provides lots of heat. Which is wasted energy at current prices.... Who needs that.
It should be noted that these LED's do get HOT & a good Aluminum Heat Sink & heat sink compound will assist in the longevity of these LED's. Probably a couple of holes on either side would assist with the air flow to assist cooling
The AC Green Ground wire should remain connected to the Chassis fitting for safety in case the live wire falls off inside.
This will cause the power point fuse to blow. Which is really not that different than the original Quartz lamp connections.
You could use silastic to hold / support the AC wires if you want additional safety.
This New LED Technology does not require a separate regulated power supply as Other LED Replacement types do.
The on board chips are supposed to limit the current. But it actually spreads the full 240v ac across all the individual tiny LED's in the cluster. 3-4v each
Unfortunately this also allows the LED to flicker at the line frequency or 50 or 60hz. Because of the switching at the zero crossover point of the AC sign wave.
The Camera does pick this up easily as it clashes with the frame rate of the camera.
But if you are only using the light as a Floodlight then you really won't notice any flicker. It's called persistence of vision.
The old CRT Televisions that we watched for years used to flicker at this rate also.
The uninitiated wont recognise the amazing technology behind these new devices.
Cheers
An Old Electronics Tech
HI TJ.Thank you so much for your comment, I appreciate.
Have a nice day.
Il costo di un nuovo faro led ora è irrisorio, non risulta più conveniente la modifica, solo se si intende recuperare il lampione antico.
V jag
Good and accurate explanation, I too am old tech, years ago a white light emitting high power diode was sort of like the Holy Grail, times have changed. I remember vacuum tubes 🤣
Nice conversion but for completeness it would be good to measure the temp. of the led for some hours of use.
Grazie Amico proprio quello che cercavo :) ottimo lavoro!
Hi Alessio
It's just an idea, be careful with the voltage
Verynic Professional👍👍👍
👍
I could have saved a lot of money if I knew what you knew on my lights unbelievable keep up the good work okie dokie stay cool peace out
VERY useful video. Thanks
You are welcome
Thanks for sharing this video 👍👌💥👍
Thanks for visiting
Very good idea 💡
Thank you! 😊
very good realisation! A method to save energy !
I saw this conversion. I liked the idea. I have two of these style outdoor lamps, which constantly burn out the halogen bulbs or the holders get damaged from the heat and the fixture has to be replaced. Either way they fail. So I found these modules on eBay and bought several at under $2.00 USD each. I dismantled the fixtures and had to grind off all the old mounting hardware mounting tabs in the aluminum castings. That provided a flat surface on the inside of the case. I then flattened the reflector to allow two of the 50 Watt 120V modules just like this example, but two wide. I centered them on either side of center to allow the most heat transfer to the case. To ensure the modules didn't burn up, I added silver heat sink compound you use for CPU mounting. I placed the paste between the case and the reflector, and again between the module and the reflector. 10G of the past was about $6.00 on eBay. I then wired them up. The results are good, but nowhere near the "sport court" level of light output of a single 500 Watt halogen light. I measured the current draw and it's about 60 Watts. I also measured the case temperature and it gets to about 130 degrees F, which is less than the case did with a 500 Watt halogen lamp. So to put it in perspective I replaced two halogen fixtures, with 4 50W modules and went from 1000 Watts to about 120 Watts. It's adequate light to see what you're doing in the yard. Hopefully they will hold up for a while and I won't be climbing up and replacing the lights or fixtures. They make a single 100W LED module, but the cost for a single 100W module was more than 2, 50W modules. They also make larger modules, 150W or 200W but I would be cautious, as the case may not be able to dissipate the heat generated by larger output modules. This is an interesting hack.. Not too difficult to do.
Just buy a RS7 LED bulb which is plug and play. Takes 2 seconds to install
Are they still working?? And how would 2 50 watt LEDs not be as bright as a 500 Halogen? False advertising?
Thank you for your instruction, do you know if Ican do for lamp with sensor?
this conversion is great I have several of them cob chip does not need reflector as all light shines forward and have a set angle I use 1/8" aluminum sheet to form mount for chip rivet or screw to lamp housing to disperse heat use heat shrink on wires up to solder point unlike halogen bulbs leds run cool, will work in any position, do not quit if you drop them, brighter, use less juice last, 1000's of hours, and chips are cheap and come in 20-100 watts, i'll never buy another halogen bulb btw your background noise is irritating
Great choice of music for this videoLaura Brehm Warriyo mortals song
I enjoy my halogen in winter months
I liked the song. Thank you.
Nice video helpful.
I thought those chips required heatsink on the back of board?
Hi Matthew,for a 20-30 watt led, the flood light housing is enough. the housing is made of aluminum with small ribs that emanates the heat of a small led
For those complaining about music have you not heard of a volume knob just turn it down, it's not like he is talking over it for crap sake!
I like the original bulbs because they make a lot of heat, I live in a cold climate so instant heat is good.
Thanks for video, it is fun for beginner. It is an idea that count.
Hi man, good idea, good work. I did make this with new metal holder in the middle of floodlight, but this is better way. Thanx.
Great idea. How do you disipate the heat?
Mungkin untuk pemakaian yang tidak terlalu lama
I would test before reassembly, but good video!
Do you need to worry about the heat from the led eventually melting the protective casing on the wires that are exposed. Thank you great vieo
casey armstrong, LED lights do not produce that much heat; not enough to worry about melting the wires. That’s the beauty of LED lighting; they run cool all the time.
It will immediately burn due to the high temperatures of the LED. It does not have a good sink
If he will only use the lamp with a motion detector, this is not a problem. It can cause problems with longer use. I would just buy a new lamp or replace the bulb with an r7s led module.
Question: I would like to assembly a 100 w cob led in a teather spot light of 550gr aluminum to remove heat.. What you think?? Thank you🤗
The aluminum case is not large enough and thick enough to absorb and dissipate the heat from a 50w LED. 20w be about the limit. Instead of crapping out the reflector to lower it, you could have cut out the bottom of it, added in a thick piece of aluminum plate to the flat bottom inside of the casing. (Use thermal past both sides of the plate).
This would have made a higher surface to mount the chip and would be flush with that tin reflector bottom. Also by adding that thick AL plate you might be able to safely bump the LED power up to 30w .
Optionally that shitty reflector could have been tossed if you was to buy/install a reflector/lens kit to create a nice focused beam
Nice video, but music is too hard and anoying.
what was the wats of the halogen and how did it compare with brightness
220 volts on a metal casing, no earth and no protection, and a thin layer of paint as isolation, good luck with that!
You're right. But this Floodlight has GND connected.
Between 1:30 and 1:50 minutes, it is noted that the earthing cable is attached to the housing. you can also see the symbol of the GND erth
BE CAREFUL , SAFETY FIRST . Do not use sockets without the grounding circuit
I was expecting some safety protection over the live wires but nope. Very dangerous.
Earth wire was still connected, that was thermal paste and not paint that was applied.
The wires seem a bit skinny, imho there should be some silicone or heatshrink put on it...
Some people like to live
dangerously.
The best,sir
Great job. But, I believe that they sell LED work light for around $8 that is 4000 LUM. GREAT VIDEO. I turn the sound off. Peace
Thanks for an informative and professional video.
Should probably also show unplugging the wall outlet.
Nice work,but you should add Suitable cooler .
Eyadallmonajjed 1 f
Ravicaat
You idea is super easy work .but how much led cast?
Good video
He didn’t touch the halogen ON THE ENDS. I’ve just learned that if you touch the glass, it will hurt the light due to you sticky fingers and makes the heat concentrate and ware out faster.
Hi
That's right, but I was throwing it away anyway
Don't know about you, but I always find loud obnoxious background noise to be be helpful.
People moaning about the music? I could do a tutorial on turning the volume either down or off if you want.
mark dent best comment
Lol! Common sense no longer common!
Actually today with all the "intellects" it's a virtue!
Please send instructions immediately... lol
that is a cool track of music.
That would require a "thought process"...
bravo is a great idea, but whether there will be enough cooling, I do not think it will
Quick question, I didn't see a ground cable to the case I might be wrong? If the solder join cracks on the cables they will make the whole light a deathtrap if there is no ground I would use epoxy over the soldered cable to the Cob chip.
will the aluminium/steel housing be able to handle the heat? im thinking of doing the same but with a 100w chip. im guessing ill need a heatsink + fan for that.
Hi Micke
Excuses for delay
The aluminum housing barely cope at 50w. If you want to put 100w, you need to find an extra cooling cooler plus a fan, otherwise the led will fry.
Just to clarify... 50w LED compares to XYZ Halogen blub ?
Save your Time and Money, this retrofit, doesn’t provide a good Heat Sink for the LED, and it won’t last long. My Neighbor, replaced his outside Halogen, with the LED Lamps, after seeing my new LED Flood Lights form e-conolights. He didn’t want to pay the money for the fixtures. None of his retrofits lasted a year. Also I think his old fixtures leaked in moisture.
I think the aluminum case would provide enough heat sink but the heat transfer in this method probably not good enough. I would fix a solid block of aluminum in the back of the case and fix the module directly to it. Cut a hole in the reflector so it fits around the block plus led.
Definitely needs a heat sync in the set up.
it would have had more heat dissipation to have left the reflector suspended instead of gluing it directly to the case.
pbrin । ।।
+Shanon Bull
You think he was gluing it to the case? I was thinking that he was using heat sink compound to provide a better thermal connection to the case.
Don't think: set .5 speed of video an at 3:30 or so you'll see this. :-) "Thermal glue" as I saw.
So, what was the led chip you replaced with and how many lumens was the difference also the light output before and after?
The led it's 50w
Hi, You dont need any heat sink on it. Will it run to hot without one or housing is enough. How hot does it get? Thanks
The housing of the floodlight is made of aluminum and cools the LED, the temperature being most quickly transmitted through the thermal paste
The circuit is thermally protected, but that means if it gets too hot, it won't be as bright, so the bigger the heat sink, the brighter it is. However, running it without any heat sink is not recommended (and pointless)
Shawn Guertin thank you that's explains it for me.
DIY Tips&Tricks thanks much appreciated.
Can i use a 100 watt chip. or would more heat sink be needed.
No,
the 100w LED is too big and not cool enough
great job keep up the good and congrats with your subscibers know go and put those leds on the case iwont to see how you do it
you are a genius.
It actually becomes pretty annoying watching this video and secondly the led will most probably burn out since there ain’t enough cooling
Oh, the case and reflector give plenty of cooling, provided you don't put more than maybe 30W of LED power in. And 30W is already a ton more light than a 150W halogen.
Even though LEDs are much more efficient than tungsten filament lamps, the luminous efficiency is still less than 60%. About 40-50% of the energy you put into them is dissipated as heat...
Marco Polo - Go and search for water cooled LEDs. This is how much heat they can produce.
You are really trying keep it up
Somewhat ok at playing with electronic but much better at closing the right track cover
hi, you not use heatsink??? do you not have temperature problem??? led life is conditional of temperature led...
Led is bolted into aluminium and metal case with thermal paste between layers. Seems like legit solution.
Thanks for the video
Great Job buddy! I want to do my set of lights, they are a pair instead and I’m not sure what led should I buy or if I have to do something different. Would you please help me out, I really will appreciated. Keep up the good work. Thanks...
I've done this before they don't seem to last very well the way he did it trick I figured out is I go get a heat sink off of a CPU out of a old computer use heat sink paste and assemble it last a long time had one for over a year now and no problems
Cin it be directly used in 220v ac?
Que caracteristicas tiene el led chip?. Y los tornillos que sujetan al led, van solo sobre el aluminio o se roscan tambien a la carcasa.
Gracias.
I like it but it's better if the incoming power passed through rectifier and capacitor.
That would reduce flicker but also increase voltage 1.414 times ac line voltage
Be careful about the creepage distance!!! This Cob work on 230v or 110v
Thank you,
i liked the song-but where do you buy led??
Good idea!
I wonder can you do that with those plastic car headlights???
I do not know what to say.
everything must be done carefully, it is about high voltage
Did you have a driver on the housing or wire 110 volts directly to the LED?
Which side was the hot wire? Are does it matter?
Why was it flashing like that? Did it stop or only when you tilted the light? How can I prevent this? ...
This is the exact project I am working on
is that some kind of adhesive or heat transfer compound you put under the LED and the reflector?
Yes .Thermal Conductivity For CPU
sweet thanks, this is a great idea, thanks for the video, keep it up
Better off cutting a hole in the foil and mount Led direct to enclosure for improved heat transfer.
Re: Mount LED assembly direct to case to increase heat transfer, cut reflector as needed.
YEP.. that's what I would do..As with using thermal paste with a CPU/ GPU you what the surface as flat as possible...using the least amount of thermal paste.
How is the led chip doing?
Because it seems that the Halogen Lamp is a 200W-400W max,
And the heat of a 50W LED Chip is really massive!
Is it still functional?
The problem is that the 50W almost needs a fan to coold it down!
Good job
Appreciate the video. Didn’t finish watching. The music is too much.
Cheatin Chad: agree the music wasn't very good but everything has mute or volume. Is it THAT difficult to....
You can't find the mute button on youtube?
Yeah I have to admit I had to mute it too. Cool view though.
The music is just fine. Ya just mute.
Do like I did, turn the sound OFF, I couldnt stand it either,
Hi,... my application needs a dimmable LED unit... is this one dimmable? Where did you purchase the unit?> thaks.
Silver duct tape for furnaces would cover the large holes.
I like the soldering gun. I had one just like this. The AC connector is used in Europe, except U.K.
😉Thank you Marius
I just did that and my cob light is barely illuminating any suggestions on my problem. My connection seems good and polarity is good as well
How about just replacing the J78 halogen bulb with a LED one? Not as high a wattage but usually sufficient.
Thank you. Great idea! *****!!
Thank you Raul
Halogen reflectors don't work correctly or efficiently with LED modules.
They do work well when you mount the led in correctly. Not in this case as he wrecked the reflector
I have to light up a 3 x 2 1/2 banner, I was gonna use 5050 led strips, for it's all I have at the moment, just to give it "some small light", maybe I can use something stronger, but not to strong..
Hi.
5050 led strips are good, but you need to find a suitable power supply
@@CMCdiycool thanks 👍 I actually built a trailer for my motorcycle 12v power supply, banners in the back. It's starting to look like a vehicle from Disneys light parade
Is it working AC power supply, no need to dc power...?
موسيقى رائعة والابتكار أروع.
Cool video thank you
Where do you buy the LED chip I want to electrical supply place and they said they don’t carry them
www.gearbest.com/diy-parts-and-tools/pp_009141830535.html?wid=1433363¤cy=GBP&vip=16929916&gclid=CjwKCAjwsfreBRB9EiwAikSUHT-ZsbDjBmIFxwvmvrfxb3AR1nzuMeDqhO-wN1DXBPGUCfaQYLrmohoCn3IQAvD_BwE
I tried this months ago with and without a heat sink both times the driverless LED blow the RCD and the Breaker. I’ve tried other things with these LED’s and I find them to be total Chinese CRAP!
you had short to ground
Did you use resistant
The switch you connect in 220v or 12v ?
These days you can get LED bulbs that are the same size as the old halogen bulbs and you can just swap the old halogen bulb for a new LED one without having to do any electrical work.
Apparently a lot of people don't have volume control. Also I for one love the Desingn and don't see how it's charging the casing.
You obviously no nothing about IP ratings and what they are for. Looks like a complete death trap with no earth connection. Its just waiting for some unsuspecting guy to touch it.
Dereadful music kill it and try talking.