How To Convert T8 Fluorescent Lights to LED ● Explained in Simple Terms
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- Опубликовано: 15 фев 2018
- Getting rid of the ballast and the T8 fluorescent bulbs that burn out and retrofitting and converting to LED was the best thing I have done. It was easy and the LED light is fantastic! Before doing this project, switching over and converting to LED was confusing because I didn't know what was actually happening when you retrofit from T8 fluorescent to LED lights. I watched a bunch of videos but none of them described what was actually happening with the circuits. They just cut a bunch of wires without explaining clearly. I made this video on how to convert and retrofitting to T8 LED's in the hopes that others could understand what and why and how. Converting and retrofitting to LED lights is not that hard to do yourself once you understand what is happening.
GOOD NEWS TO TELL YOU !!
The technology has changed since making this video! I refreshed the links below.....The LED bulbs I have listed below can be installed anyway you prefer. They're called "hybrid"LED. They can be plug and play.....just remove your old florescent and install them...... or..... you can remove the ballast to save even more power and wire it with the tombstones (listed below). They are great!
It's been a few years now and I definitely prefer the 5000K over the 4000K. It's just a great work light to use in a work shop. Hope that helps making your decision!
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Did this to my shop lights. Easy to do and much brighter. Got bulbs from Ebay. $49 for ten bulbs.
The biggest problem i have is that the T8 fluorescent setup kills the radio in my shop instantly any time i turn it on. The number 1 thing i want working in my shop is the radio. My question is will the radio work if i switch the T8 + ballasts out for LED's?
@@rockymountainman7 I think these led light would kill your radio, here is the reason, most of these lights did not pass the EMC and EMI testing, has electromagnetic interference problem.
Chris Notap how did you hook up the Electric wires
To that on/ off switch
I just retrofitted the fluorescent fixtures in my garage, but I used GE T8 type B LED tubes, which made it even easier than what was done in this video. With the type B tubes there is no need for the non-shunted lamp holders. You just clip the wires from the ballast, remove the ballast, reconnect the wires directly to the power, and you're done. Oh, one more optional step: add an inline fuse between the hot wire coming in and the live wire end of the fixture to protect someone who might put a fluorescent tube in in the future. (The type B bulbs come with warning labels that the fixture is no longer safe for fluorescent tubes, but not everybody reads labels.)
Thanks Chris. THIS is what I needed to know. Type B info...
Thank you for being succinct. I searched several too-drawn-out videos for the information I needed and couldn't get it. You were quick and to the point - without wasting my time. Thank You!
This is EXACTLY what I was searching for! You explained it and the camera work was excellent! I have a ballast going out in one of the units in the kitchen drop ceiling and want to do this. Thank you for the video!
Just curious how do you like this light in the kitchen? I am looking at replacing the entire fixture in my kitchen due to the grease build up, but the led fixtures I find online do not include a light diffuser and I think I would prefer one with a diffuser.
OUTSTANDING explanation! Love how you laid out the bulbs and explained the circuitry. Thanks for a great job. Best I've seen explaining the process.
Was looking for this, im doing the exact same retro fit as you did, helped me alot! Thanks! Greetings from Sweden
Thanks Chris. This video inspired me to go the retrofit route with single-ended bulbs. The wiring you used was the simplest I've seen during my research. Finished three lamp conversions yesterday in the garage and am extremely pleased with the results.
"Explained in simple terms" is the most perfect description. Before I went in I knew the how and why of the original setup and which option I should choose for the conversion. I had all the parts and tools and the change-over went off without a hitch. Many thanks!
Excellent job in showing the hookup. I like the way you laid it all out on the bench . I know what my next project is.
I liked the way you laid out just the bulbs, connectors, and the wire. Made it clearer for me. Thanks
Its different again for the older type that uses starters and magnetic ballasts, and even with the electronic ballast shown in the video there's often an extra 'preheat' wire used to warm up the lamp filaments prior to ignition which isn't shown here. Clear as mud? :)
Very nice explanation of the different types of kits. I needed your video a month ago when I was installing new LED bulbs and found out my ballast was bad. The retrofit is definitely the way to go.
I have bought the plug and play LED's. I just took out the fluorescents - replaced with the LED tubes and I am very happy with the results. No extra wiring etc at all. Thanks for posting this information as well.
Andrew Gifford
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Great job. I think I could really use these in the shop. Time to go shopping!
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I recognize the work of a natural teacher who knows how to use the tools of the teaching trade. Your video has evidence of careful planning, clear presentation, good use of audio-visuals with no fumbling or bad camera work. My ballast-removal project was easier because of your clarity about plug/play vs retrofit, and clear visuals about the wiring. Thanks.
Wow, thank you for that great feedback!!
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Your production quality just keeps going up! Great work!
Thank you for the explanation between retro fit and plug and play. I've been confused for months.
Excellent video!
One thing you missed is that the "Lumens" rating of each bulb is what determines its brightness, NOT the color rating (e.g. 4,100K). You can have two different bulbs, each 4,100K for example, but with different Lumens ratings (different brightness). If one bulb is rated at 2,500 Lumens it will provide more light than a bulb that is rated at 2,200 Lumens for example. The 4,100K is the "color" or tone of the light. It has nothing to do with the amount of light generated from the bulb.
Also, it's not clear if you use T12 size lamp holders at the ends, or a different size?
Well stated.
You can also get Dual or Double-ended tubes. No messing with the Tombstones (Lamp holders) Just cut out the Ballast and wire hot to one side, neutral to the other. Doesn't matter which side although I prefer to keep the original hot and neutral wires the same. You can install a dual ended tube safely in any direction. If you accidentally install a fluorescent tube in the rewired dual ended fixture nothing will happen. In a single end fixture it will short out.
I believe shunted tombstones are recommended when wiring dual ended tubes from opposite sides.
The industry is going away from single ended LED lamps. Dual ended are so much easier to install, and much safer.
@@Spreadswings Brilliant and concise Video, but it doesn't answer the principal question "are these LED tubes simply wired to mains power be it 110 or 240 V"? the rest is obvious. please answer, thank you :)
@@marcmccord5085 In a two tube fixture that has been converted to ballast bypass, is it safe to leave one tube out or is that a fire hazard or something? They're a bit too bright!
@@sl1237 They operate independently. You can either take out a lamp, or cap off the leads to that lamp. No fire hazard. BUT... dual ended lamps are much better. Easier to install and safer since you don't have the power and neutral to the same socket. Power to one end of the lamp and neutral to the other. And you don't have to put the lamps in a certain way.
Hi Chris, I've been looking for bulbs that would replace my old 40w 2 bulb florescent light that I have in a downstairs office that's used as indirect lighting. As a former electrician (now retired) I have done replacements of LED for old florescent lighting for some time now, but in the past they've always been way too expensive and for the average home owner those prices were out of sight, so TY for this video, Also I'd like to bring up one point that was over looked for the average DIY'er and that's to make sure the power to the light is turned off! If you are comfortable just shutting off a light switch - place tape over the switch, I also put a small key tag that says "DO NOT TURN ON!" Again TY for this great video. Cheers!
This is exactly what i was looking for.
The laying out of the setups was super helpful, and explanation was clear and simple.
Thank you!
Excellent video. The way you static displayed those bulbs in the beginning is exactly how instructional videos should be made
Thank you for a simple but informative explanation on how to do this change over. I too have watched numerous videos and found them confusing or too technical. Cheers from Australia.
Thank you, useful video. I now know to shop for retrofit replacements.
Very simple and plain language description on the difference between the retro and plug and play replacements. Well done Sir!
Thanks man!
Thank you VERY much for this excellent video. This is my first electrical project and this video has built my confidence enough to do it on my own. Awesome!
A very enlightening (pun intended,) video. I didn't even know that such a change over from fluorescent to led's was available. I will probably do that in the near future. Thanks for the interesting lesson, and great explanation.
This is the first video of yours I have watched. Your explanation of how LED and fluorescent light work was great. I want to do this in my garage. I have eight foot fixtures that need to be updated to LED and I plan to lose the ballistic when I complete the conversion. Thanks for making it look easy. You have a new subscriber. Cheers!
I would suggest not going to an 8-foot LED tube..They have been shown to sag badly in the middle. Go with 4-footers.
@@imdeplorable2241 if you bought a quality 8-foot tube,should be no problem.
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I've looked at a few of these type of vids and your video is by far the most easiest, straight forward way to explain the process... thanks mate
Finally, I understand the wiring, great video, thanks.
One thing to be aware. I used the replacement bulbs from Costco which still requires the ballast. Like you, I find the light superior to the florescents. However I also have a motion detector on mine so that when I enter the garage via the house door or via car, the lights turn on for me. Works great EXCEPT.... when off, one light from each fixture (of two like yours) stays partially lite. The one bulb never completely turns off. It's about the brightest of a nightlight so I use it as such. Let's me see what's in the garage so I don't trip or not see something before I enter far enough for the motion detector to kick on. I contacted the manufacturer and was told this is how the bulbs work if there's a motion detector on the circuit. They turn off completely if just a regular switch. Just more info for anyone deciding on replace bulb only vs remove ballast options. But I agree - definitely do replace with LED. I was replacing bulbs about every 8 to 12 months. Now it's been years and I haven't had to replace or fix anything.
Great video! No BS approach, just informed me of what I needed to know without a giant theatrical presentation. Thank you sir!
Thank you Chris, you must have been a teacher, you make it so easy to learn, with your right to the point approach explanation.
Watched another guy fitting one and I have to say you explained and demonstrated it extremely well to someone with limited wiring knowledge! Thankyou sir!
Great improvement, especially on the color rendering.
Man appreciate your help, was able to order single ended leds and non shunted sockets and was able to replace easily didn't take that long. Can't believe that electrician asked me $800 for labor just unbelievable. Thank you
For a man of years you seem to be enjoying yourself. Wish I could still move that easy and come up smiling ☺️
Yes, I am enjoying myself. I'm glad youtube came along when it did. This is my main gig for entertainment, income and fun.
Great video for a DIY person. Around here most people wait for the 4 foot LED lights to go on sale at Costco and replace the whole unit.
Agreed, at $18 PER bulb or $36 per light plus your time. A lot cheaper to buy the whole LED assembly at $25- $30
Exactly. I purchased some LED replacement bulbs and they don't seem to work in my fixtures. And they cost as much as a replacement LED fixture when on sale.
@@pman64 I totally disagree
I've found those Feit tubes at 12 for two. It's a direct fit. Good for 4 ft but other sizes I have to retrofit. This video will help me definitely.
Thank you for laying out the info in simple terms. The time and effort to produce and upload this video is MUCH appreciated.
I have T12, 4 bulb fixtures in my finished basement. 2 are starting to him, 1 comes on when it feels like it...if at all. Found out the hard way T12s are ancient and on their way out, but so are T8s, the way it looks. May as well upgrade to LEDs. Hate I will probably end up trashing over half a case of new 4ft T12 bulbs.
I followed you easy directions just as you said, and it was so easy!! I have now completed 6 fixtures with 4 more to go! I have also shared your information with my boss, and he thinks I am sooooo smart!! haha thanks!
Just working on some fluorescent lights over the kitchen area and you showed me a great idea to solve my conundrum since the repalcement ballasts for the old flourescent light fixtures in place are not longer easy to find almost anywhere. So, I am cosidering replacing them with something else as they are starting to burn out after many years of service.
One of the BEST how to videos I've ever watched! Short simple and very informative and effective. Amazing. Other how-to channels need to watch this. Great job!
Great video. You have an excellent way of teaching a person, using a simple precise manner. Thank you for your informative video, It made my life easier changing from fluorescent to LED.
Thanks for that great feedback!!
I converted my 5ft Kitchen Fluorescent to LED 10 years ago! It was easy, and the LED Tube is still working as good as the day it was installed!
Thanks Chris, No more ballast buzzing above my head or flickering fluorescent bulbs. Your video is the best by far on the subject of retrofitting to LEDs. I'm looking forward to your weekly (ish) posts in the future.
Thanks! Best vid so far I've found. Many do not explain as well as you.
Clear and precise! Exactly the instructions I was looking for. Thanks for posting.
... a great explanation of the connection differences!...and your presentation of the conversion was very clear also! I would have liked to see a comparison of the costs of converting vs. ripping out the old and installing new lighting "strips". Regarding color temperature, there's not much difference we humans can detect from 4100 to 5000K (both are considered to be "daylight balanced"), so I'm kinda surprised the manufacturer offers both. 2700K more simulates the color balance of the old incandescent we're used to, but that probably wouldn't be preferred in a shop. Cheers
I would like to see cost compareson of "electric saved/price& life of bulbs" . Also life of bulbs at hot & cold temps?
At last - a great video!
I looked at numerous videos on "How to be get very confused when converting T8 Fluorescent Lights to LED", before thankfully finding this one that shows how easy it actually is!
Thank you Chris, and your understanding of the art of explaining!
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Awesome, thank you!
This is how you make a how to video. Well done, clear, and concise. Thank you for taking the time to share your project.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you very much for this video. You are a fantastic teacher and I loved how you laid the diagrams out on the table. Thanks again, Chris!
Quality work no bs straight to the point experience and kindness you got it all going on keep well regards
Picked your video because it was shorter than most of the other ones. Actually learned something, thank you!
Good job, Chris. I am getting ready to do the same thing, and now, I will definitely retrofit. I want to be done with ballasts and starters, etc.
Best video ive seen in youtube thanks man and god bless ya for the much need wirring feedback🙏👌
Just what I was looking for. Neat and easy. Thanks Chris!
Thank you Chris you have a great idea I'm going to use this in my small church I have about 15 to buy for lights to replace from th to LEDs great job on the video look forward to your future videos
Good work. I use James tubes which are fairly cheap at a box of 30. There are varying tubes but so long as you have an AC on both ends tube the conversion process is always easy. For those with more lampholders maybe using older T12 ballasts it's all the same, Hot to one end and Neutral to the other. All the lampholders on one end get spliced together, Easy peasy! People are always blown away at how much brighter they are for the wattage. Often times if I'm converting a lot of strip lights they'll go from 2 floro tubes to 1 led and are still as bright.
There are many features of lighting and light bulbs. You mentioned the warmth or Kelvin of your two bulbs 4100K and 5000K.
Candles and a wood fire are what we might term the warm end 2500K to 2700K,, and incandescent bulbs are about the same. I think that was one of the reasons for their easy acceptance a 150 years ago,, a carbon filament bulb is about the same as a candle, about the same as fire light. The bright blue sunny sky is the other end of our experience, blue/white 6000K.
The feature you did not mention is CRI,, Colour Rendering Index. It is a measure of how complete the spectrum is so we can see colours accurately. The old cool white fluorescent tubes,, those old workshop, drafting office, commercial building T-12 fluorescent tubes,, that we all hated. They make a freshly cleaned white shirt look a bit glowing blue. They were usually on the order of a 5000K light,, but a CRI of 66. I have one old compact fluorescent bulb that has a CRI of about 40.. Only a zombie could like it.
The most modern CRI of LED tubes will be CRI 80 to CRI 95. Very complete spectrums,, easy to see colours accurately. It is most likely that the reason you liked both the 4100K and the 5000K is because their CRI was very similar.
Today,, we need to be aware of Kelvin,,, daylight or yellow warm,, CRI,, how well does that bulb allow you to see colour, Wattage,, expected life, Lumens,,, dimmable or not dimmable,,, yeah,, it will get you nuts sometimes.
Am I alone in regarding 4000 to 6000k too harsh for a domestic environment? 4000k for work environments is fine but you need to take care of avoiding glare so light distribution is important. Some light on a ceiling and walls can soften a bright light source.
@@towerdave4836 This all a bit technical,,, but our eyes are adapted, maybe genetically, to fire light. We have several million years of looking into a fire.. a candle,, a torch,, and only about 80 years of looking into 4000 kelvin light
No. I am in agreement 4000 is about my limit. When I lamp a house I choose the candle end of the range,, The best I am aware of for residential use is about 3000 kelvin with a CRI of 90 or greater. Special considerations,, in bath I always choose the soft end 2700 to 3000 (I am not a fan of most of the 2500 kelvin I have found so far.) Kitchen, a bit higher 3000 to 3500 and Dressing areas for clothes selection,, work areas, office,, desk,, drafting,, 3500 to 4000 I only exceed 4000 if the customer states a preference AND the CRI is really high 95. Most bulbs today are sold by wattage,,, the old wattage,, 60 watt,, 75 watt,, 100 watt,, BUT When was the last time you actually bought or even used an old filament bulb We need to learn lumens. 600,, 1000, 1400 lumens. The true wattages if you look carefully are on the order of 6 to 15 watts,,, AND the newest bulbs,, available in Europe and the Middle East and soon to be here, half of that. A 2.7 watt bulb is fully capable of producing 600 lumens. And longevity? My bedroom table lamp burns 24/7 600 lumens,, and been burning for 10 continuous years. Remember the old hall night lights plugged into a wall outlet in the hallway? 7 watts. The bulb type of night light shield plugged into a wall outlet? 12 to 15 watts. You can light half a house now on that much juice.
Your video was so clear and helpful! Bought the led bulbs before realizing I needed to do more than switching them out. Had no idea what to do and now I'm going to buy some non-shunted light holders and I'll be trying it out on my own! Thank you!
Thanks for posting this! The explanation and visuals were super clear. Taking the fixture down, taking it apart, and laying it out on the work bench made it easy to follow. I will be doing this with a fluorescent fixture in my garage soon and this helped a lot.
Jason Baker how did the man get it to light up without hooking it up to the Electric CURIOS
Went to other sites but you gave the best explanations and instructions!
I must say. EXCELLENT VIDEO. I don't see how someone can't comprehend after watching your very descriptive video. Thank you
Wow, thank you!
Finally converted my fluorescent tubes to LED today. Great video gave me the confidence to attempt it and referred to it a couple times while wiring the tombstones to be doubly sure.. Only snag was that I made the pigtail too short. No biggie. Plus I learned some Canadian lingo. Thanks man!!!!
New here, For sure you are a teacher Chris, excellent explanation and also great great film and editing, great job, became new subscriber
Not a teacher. Many have suggested that I should have been one.That is great feed back. Thanks for that!
the drawback from removing the ballast is that you will now be shocked by 277v and possibly die not 120 volt
Just came across him tonight and I second that!
Thank you for explaining in laymen's terms the difference in the two and how to connect em both up. I've got the ballast out in two of my florescent light fixtures and now I know how to fix them both and with led lights as well. Thank you!!!
Thanks for explaining and demonstrating this so clearly. I was wondering why everyone else was changing the ballast, now I know the answer. :)
nice work better advice than others you just keept it simple
nice video, very informative right to the point.... have a good Monday
Thanks for the feedback.
Great video. Love how you laid it out on the table. It explained it perfectly. My install should be a breeze now. Thank you.
Thanks your video was the easiest to understand by far. I was able to replace the bulbs in my laundry area and ditch a broken ballast!
Great video and surprisingly, I love the music!!!
really, really helpful! excellent explanation - I could not figure out why, even though I got correct size, wattage and obviously length my lights would flicker or not work. it was because they were the wrong type! got some new bulbs and they are working beautifully! thank you!
Early LED tubes required a low voltage DC supply, but these new ones run directly off AC mains voltage,
Your explanation and video breakdown was unsurpassed. GREAT job!!!
I WISH YOU HAD TAUGHT ME 10TH GRADE CALCULUS ! You are an excellent teacher/speaker in MANY WAYS ! Luv IT++
Thanks for that!!
Compared to all other awesome videos on RUclips demonstrating similar conversion which , this is by far the best, very simple and yet easy to understand. 👍👍👍
Thank you for sharing (done subscribed)...
Wow, thanks!
Great info. No wasted time and mouth running.
I think there's a crack in one of my tombstones, so this appears to be a perfect time to take the fixture apart and convert to LED. Thanks for the handy guide! Cheers
Great illustrative layout of the methods to replace these. Thanks!
Perfect and easy explanation. Thank you.
Nicely presented. Liked that background music also.
Chris, several weeks ago I happened on a bunch of these so called Plug and Play LED tubes (type A) they didn't work because I had already cut and removed ballasts. So I took them back and got type B tubes that get wires from both ends. Super simple to get lights that work. The hardest part is getting the cover back up cuz I only have two hands. The Frau doesn't want to even come in my shop cuz the chaos bugs her.(?) My third hand is a 2" piece of tape, but my lights work and no ballasts. My point of this is to look for type B or whatever is driven from the one end. I prefer the double ended tubes. Cheers. Bob
Just changed over my 800 Sq/ft garage ( machine shop) to led 5000k with out the ballast, got a steal on 20 new fixtures for 85 dollars! I installed 16 fixtures/ two tubes for each fixture. There are no dark areas in the shop now and that's not an under statement! Like your video shows very easy to install and made a big impact on the power bill. Should have done this years ago 😎
That's great!! I still like the 5000k ones. I swapped them out for the 4000's just to try again but went back a day later to the 5000's.
Very well explained both verbally and with video. So simple and non shunted Ithink is the way to go, eliminate the ballast altogether.
Bought florescent fixtures and bulbs when we bought our house and and been wanting to get led but theybwere to expensive at the time. But after seeing your video, i may be upgrading my fixtures. Thanks for the video.
In the long term the savings are enormous, mainly in running cost, but also in bulb life.
If you ran a standard single fluorescent for 15,000 hours, you would need 3 tubes (2 replacements) and burn approximately $500 in electricity.
With LED you would only need one tube and the total running cost would be nearer $225.
The tube life is something of an estimate, but with a $275 saving in electricity cost, it would not be the end of the world if it needed a replacement.
I like this guy . he gets to the point right away. Nice short and gives you want want to know and not a lot of stuff you don't really don"t need to do the job. You look at it for five minutes and you got it. your done.
Thanks for that feedback!
Very good tutorial. Simple and straight forward. Thank you!
John here just switch out to LED LIGHTS got 4 48" that uncle got free and love them brighter and quiet running no humming in my garage for my wood shop very happy.
For the people that aren’t very good at DIY projects, you need to go slowly so we can see how things are done. You went so fast, I don’t know how you hooked into the electric.
Maybe try playing in 0.75 playback speed; It helps me keep up on things when watching a walkthrough I’m unfamiliar with.
Perfect explanation. I'm impressed. (From Sweden )
Simple, informative, and humorous...well done! Thanks.
Awesome job thanks
Very helpful! Thank you :)
Best video so far on this type of modification. You clearly define the two types. Good job!!
Thanks. I found it confusing when I was researching to do it myself so I tried to explain the difference. Thanks for the feedback.
I found this video to be very helpful, thanks. I noticed so many thumbs down but couldn’t find any comments to go with them. I checked because I thought maybe I missed something, but no. I especially like the way you put the circuit on the bench, it made it very easy to understand. Thanks again.
Thanks for that great feedback!
Thank you for this easy to learn. I have to replace 10 double 8 footers and 10 4 footers next month. this video certainly helped
I just replaced the 4ft fixtures in my garage with daisy chain LED fixtures. Went from 3000k to 6500k and all 4 lamps will run on the same plug as one of the lamps I took out. The originals are old electromagnetic T12s and the difference in light is amazing. Plus since my shop is only heated when I run heaters the lamps are not fussy about cold like the originals.
HEYYYY!!! I followed the directions and it actually work,lol. Thanks! :)
Good stuff. I didn’t even know they had led replacements for fluorescent bulbs.
A link is in the description.
Very well explained.. Thank you!
I retrofitted a few fixtures last year. I'm so glad I did. Unfortunately, 1 started flicking on and off. I noticed that in a few of our city's street lamps too. You'd think that for the price of them, this wouldn't happen.
I have done a few fixtures myself and have the same problem I would check the connectiond where the light bulb goes in sometimes you need to replace actually the only flickering lights 2or 3 are with the 8ft bulbs no problem with the 4 ft ones
Yeah, a couple of my screw-in bulbs have flicker problems too. I guess I'll hit up the sockets first with electric contact cleaner or emory cloth then make sure they're in tight.
Ron Yerke I have NEVER had a flicker problem, but all of mine are. NEW fixtures, not conversions,. If using a dimmer MUST use one capable of LED service , not cheap.
Ron Yerke pop st
I like how you explain the whole ballast bulb system and circuitry. Excellent content! Love the imploding bulb being dropped on the floor. (nice visual) very dramatic...
Overall, the video lyrics were great and easy to dance to... Seriously, your video was perfect, thanks!
I always love when people give me feedback. Lets me know I'm on the right track! Thanks!
@@chrisnotap Your video shows me that you put hard work into it. Bravo.
I know I love it when people comment on mine. Cheers!