For reference, I used to use a 500W halogen lamp with no front glass above my workbench in winter for the light and heat. I didn't experience any adverse effects despite it being about 800mm above my head.
If you never look directly into the light then it should be a lower risk since eyes are the most sensitive, but UVB and UVC are at long term exposure increasing the risk of skin cancer. But I would like to see the differences in spectrum from ordinary warm white LEDs and daylight LEDs. The color temperature sometimes matter more than you think, and our preference is as I see it learned to accept the color temperature of warm white since incandescent light is warm white but daylight is preferred for best color representation and it makes us less tired.
Back around 93 to 2000 I had halogen track lighting in one room with the lights aimed towards one wall. While the bulbs were replaced a few times they were never re-aimed but none of them had any glass covers...just the bare bulbs. The walls were painted blue and when we finally decided to redo the room we were surprised to see a very clear bleaching of the paint only where the lights had been aimed and it was even more evident where the lights had overlapped each other.
My closest McDonalds used to have this photo wallpaper above the cash registers, and a handful of halogen spotlights in the ceiling above. I don't know for how long they had that setup, but you could clearly see these triangular bleached areas below each spot, perfectly following the cone of light. This sure explains why.
Photobleaching can be cause by visible light too, and in some small measure even by NIR, if the source is intense enough and the exposure is long enough. The effect however is much more prominent at shorter wavelengths (blue and UV)
While a very interesting topic, people ignore the sun's increased UV output due to Grand solar minimum. The scatter off objects is blatantly obvious and will cause cataracts (eventually, if eye protection is not worn). Even clear polycarbonate safety glasses filter UV.
The main safety function of the glass cover is to contain the hot halogen capsule glass if it explodes. There is quite a difference in the front/rear direction heat is emitted between the standard aluminised reflector and dichroic coated glass reflector. Metal halide lamps emit considerable UV, some types have UV block glass, others rely on the glass on the enclosure.
Hi, I thought that the shielding protected IT from shattering. (“It” being the bulb) so basically, No shielding= Bulb explodes. Shielding=bulb lasts its Life. (At least that’s what I though)
I had one bulb that exploded (a g9 socket unprotected) and fortunately 😂it broke my phone glass and missed my eyes. so that protection is much more important than uv.
@@Stoney3K and to protect it from grease/oil (mostly from the fingers). The bulb is made from quartz because glass would no withstand the very high temperatures, but the oil from fingers skin will blow it in a very short time, or at least crack it. A friend of mine didn't know and installed the tubes with bare fingers, without cleaning them afterwards, all the bulbs died after a few hours, some lasted even less than that.
Despite their deceptively simple construction, they include quite fascinating and advanced concepts in physics to be implemented in their "modern" form. The coiled coil of the filament and the Langmuir sheath of gas flow in the lit bulb being just one.
In most cases the amount of UVB you can possibly get from halogen lights is so insignificant compared to any amount of Sunlight and cannot give you a sunburn even if it shines on you all day long. That said, there were also specialized "Sunbathing" halogen lamps that ran so hot they actually looked blue. Very short lifetime on those as well.
The Sun is ~1366W/m^2 of actual light energy. 1500W halogen is going to be way below that because they're so inefficient, even if you're up close. You'd have to be right next to it. Maybe its something to be measured and compared on a future video.
@@n-steam 1-2%, so 15-30W worth of light, right up on it Edit: And at that, only a tiny sliver of that is UV energy. There's more threat from a 1W UV LED than in a 1500W halogen. 🤷♂️
@@MadScientist267 There's an area component to it too. Gonna make a guess and say the area of the light's face is 0.03m^2, so that 30W becomes 900W/m^2.
Awesome video and never something I had thought about before. I worked in a steel mill for nearly 25 years and we used tons of those 500W halogen and many had no glass just to aid in replacement (I, myself, am guilty of blowing up a few halogens in that time by touching it taking it out of the packaging).
Another thing that the front glass on halogen flood lights and the 12V PAR16 lamp you showed us do, is it helps to maximize the lifespan of the bulb by prolonging the cooling time of the bulb glass. And for the halogen flood light, the front glass will also catch flying glass shards in case the bulb explodes.
I bought a handheld 1000w halogen lamp from a second had store that specializes in photography. It's tiny, not that long tube format but a bulb type of several cm. When it's powered up there's seemingly an extra sun under the sky. After a while you can smell litte dust particles just being incinerated. I'm always impressed with that monster light. I wonder what the spectrum is like.
I have one of those to , with Handel on right? not ment to be on very long ,because the whole thing gets very hot fast, these was Produced when they used 8 mm celoid film reels, often they did not expose very long clips in one go, so The bad cooling was a lesser issue Then today I think. Mine smell burnt dust also when on and yes it's like having your own sun.
@@perstaffanlundgren Yes the one made with bakelite and metal and glasfibres. It's a beast but even more so because it's basicly a pointsource. i never used it more than half a minute at a time because of the intensity and handheld bizar power. Awesome thing. Don't think I'll let my 5 yr old kid play with it. She can have it when she can play and understand with fire and electricity and not harm anyone seriously. Microwaves and their magnetrons are another wonderfull dangerous but so interesting system to experiment with.
As an event/theatre lighting tech I am unfazed by 1kW lamps, they have been the standard for years now. A lot of theatres even still use 2kW halogens for their front lights, just an array of ~12 2kW lights baking on the stage aided by 1kW's and 750w's
Recently the US outlawed lots of halogen and incandescent bulbs. But they did not put in an import ban into the law. As someone who sells lightbulbs for a living this is kinda infuriating. People come in looking for a specific bulb and I have to tell them that I can't sell them one but they can order it online from China...
@@Warp2090 As a retail store we cant sell them due to the "Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007." Which went into effect in 2023. It makes it "illegal" for us to sell them. I am not sure on exactly how it works but since we are a franchise of a large company the large company would get fined if the EPA inspected us and found us selling bulbs that dont output at least 45 lumens per watt (most incandescent bulbs dont) or aren't on the approved exemption list. The large company would then fine us and potentially take away our store. Its stupid and I hate telling 90+ year old people, who dont even know what the internet is, that they have to order a bulb online but its all I can do.
@@thedopplereffect00 Imma be honest idk what the right way is this time around. Also this act was made by the Bush administration (repub) and then actually signed in by Biden (dem)...
Absolutely and I'm glad to not be the only one to have found this magic trick if I can call it like that. No one else makes mention of it on the web, and I found that it also applies to metal halide bulbs that have UV filters.
I was at a fashion show (a long time ago) and the big halogen lamp in a reflector ABOVE the catwalk melted, and the molten glass missed one of the models by just a few centimeters. The lamp was obviously unprotected. Imagine the horror if the glass had fallen on the head of a model.
I used to get similar halogen bulbs from the fusers of old laser printers. They were really long, but probably a few hundred watts at most. They scared the hell out of my dutch rabbit once, when she must have thought that the sun moved into my living room.
Biggest I have is a self ballasted 360W sodium vapour lamp, which has a 200W internal tungsten filament lamp as ballast for a 160W HPS capsule. ASL a few 400W mercury vapour lamps as well, which i used as room lighting when I wanted a lot of light, as they have a very good CRI by design, as they are high bay lamps for indoor use.
@@Snowcube No it has that yellow sodium glow. Think it was mostly used on fishing boats, the yellow penetrates water better. Internally mostly SBMV, just the mercury has a lot of sodium dissolved in it.
The MR16 that you noticed filter UV lights are known here as "Dichroic" lamps, the UV light is NOT reflected by the metallized coating, which is a dichroic mirror that only reflects visible light. You may also see a smaller amount of IR with them as well. Try putting your spectrometer to the back of the lamp and you'll probably find your missing spectrum. You can't measure it like you did because the filament is vertical so most of the energy is radiated sideways for the parabolic mirrors to catch. You can also try with an AR111 lamp which is a metalic reflector, not dichroic (AR111 = Alu reflector, 111mm). These are often used in applications where you can't release the heat into the recessed ceiling behind.
The EU ban hit me hard... But not for private lighting. I'm currently working on my PhD in semiconductor technology and using a sputter chamber. The tool has a heated chuck to put the wafer on. The heater has to withstand ultra high vacuum and temperatures of around 300°C. The tool manufacturer decided to use three 400W halogen lamps as heat sources since the glass perfectly isolates the hot metal from the vacuum and thus prevents contamination of my samples. We build up a stock as spare parts but they break way faster than anticipated... Without some good connection to a friend outside of EU they would be unobtanium.
50h bulbs are actually quite common for microscopes and projectors. For reference, check out the OSRAM 64640 HLX There are other versions with 300h and 2000h iirc and they are not that much more expensive. Although prices might vary quite a bit now as availability gets worse.
speaking about projectors lamps, i heard IMAX lamp is some incredible halogen or ark lamp that is water cooled and has explosion risks if operated carelessly
@@Gameplayer55055 that sounds like it would make an interesting video. I mean how the light works. Not it exploding.. although sadly I'm sure that would get a lot more views than how it works.
I believe some lamps used for photography had super thin filaments for a colder color temperature resulting in an avrage life in the tens of hours, that may be what that is.
Yeah, it is mentioned on the paper that it is for 'professional use on stages, theatres etc.' Not meant for lighting a home. 50 hours is still rather ridiculous though ;) Thanks for watching!
@@freevipservers bulbs with similar color temperature are available as halogens but with significantly longer lifespans, of course. I use 1000w 3240k studio lights with a quoted lifespan of a few hundred hours, iirc. Haven't looked in a while. Not quite the 3400 of a 500w photoflood though.
I used such lamps when filming on super-8 in the 80s, the film sensitivity was 16 or 64 iso, much light was needed. The lamps where VERY fragile and almost glowed red for 10 seconds when switched off. These were also very good to find faults in your apartment mains wiring.
I use to be an electrical contractor and also done my apprenticeship after leaving school, anyway back in the day I had fitted many of these lights I have even fitted 3kw lights to loading bays, yards etc and for testing purposes operated them without the safety glass. Back in the 809's i wasn't aware of the uvc problem and i dont remember collage remarking on about it. Anyway each time i had left an installation the safety was attached to the light and cover screwed up tight , makes you wonder about halogen car headlights!
I did sometimes get mild UV suntan from working under high power halogen lamps. But not as bad as from arc welding on a hot day without skin protection from the arc .
Might be the already existing melanin in your skin getting oxidized by the UVA rays, causing a light tan that will most likely disappear quite quickly. However it can also cause premature aging of your skin as well as increase your chances of getting a melanoma much later. Despite not causing sunburns. This is basically like a low power version of the UVA tubes used in tanning salons.
I believe the 50 hours on that 1000 watt lamp at the end. Running hotter for more output and efficiency (and more blue and UV!), but at the cost of servcie life. See its use, it's meant for theaters etc. Not for general lighting.
I remember halogen bulbs. Some Torche lamps used to use them and put out good light. These were actually popular in the 1990:. But a lot of people phased them out because of the heat risk. Some of the halogen lights also used to be popular outdoors on commercial buildings, tennis courts, horse arenas, amphitheaters, and other applications.
The main reason for glass is in case the lamp explode, which they often do. The UV radiation is actually negliable. Put the transducer at typical working distance and see a massive reduction.
What about H4 car lamps? They are halogen too. But only behind a super thin plastic cover. At least on my e-up. But the old Škoda 130L from 1986 has thick glass headlights. Are new cars emitting UV light from their halogen bulbs through their super thin plastic headlights? Or does it filter it out?
Well, the Philips H4 bulbs that came with my car do have UV filtering as they glow blue under a blacklight. Plastics on the other hand can also block UV.
I have energy saving LED everywhere in my house, but you are absolutely right, food looks somewhat off, so I use an old incandecent lamp in my kitchen, hopefully it doesn't die too soon. I wonder if there is any LED that can make look food "normal".
LEDs are getting better and you should be able to find some with a CRI/RA rating of >90 relatively cheap (IKEA has them last I checked). They are much better than the old ">80" horror shows... LEDs with >95 are even better but much more expensive and I've only seen them in dedicated studio lights. Thanks for watching!
The leaflet included with professional theater lights (like PAR 64 bulbs) does warn for skin burn due to UV emissions. Regrettably some professional bulbs also only have an estimated life of 50 hours, although "long life" versions might be available.
Yes, I used it on a banana and UVC source in this video: ruclips.net/video/bb1Nc1oygTs/видео.html The A and B protection is trivial in sunscreens, but UVC protection is rare! Thanks for watching :)
In addition to UVC from the sun not being able to penetrate the atmosphere as the above comment notes, the UVC blocking label thing on the sunscreen is kind of a marketing gimmick. Any organic molecule in existence that is providing strong absorption in the UVA will also provide at least as good or better protection (absorption and conversion into heat) in the UVB and UVC. If a low energy photon in the near UV has enough energy to excite the electronic state of a molecular orbital, then a higher energy one will also have enough to do so as well and will be just as easily absorbed. This only changes when you start getting into the x-ray region where the energy and momentum of the photons becomes so large it can start barreling through significant depths of matter WHILE exciting/ionizing it along the way regardless of what it's made of.
@@Muonium1 I think the "special" sunscreen is for arc welding, where the atmosphere doesn't protect us. Regarding the "it will absorb higher energies as well", interesting. I always thought different atoms/ electron states/ chemical bonds would absorb specific wavelengths/ photons. Do the just take as much as they can, and let the Photon go on with the rest? Or is this a different kind of interaction than what I am thinking about?
@@Muonium1 That is not correct. The absorption spectrum of Avobenzone, a common sunscreen ingredient, clearly shows that it is about 4-5x more effective at absorbing light in the UVA range than in the UVB/UVC range. That's why multiple compounds are needed to also block B and C effectively. Large, complex molecules may have fairly large absorption spectrums, but it is not accurate to say that "Any organic molecule in existence that is providing strong absorption in the UVA will also provide at least as good or better protection... in the UVB and UVC". An atom/molecule can only absorb photons with energies corresponding to available electron energy level transitions. Due to some quantum stuff I don't fully understand, the frequency of the photon doesn't have to be exactly equal, but it needs to be close. A large, complex molecule may have numerous available transitions and therefore be capable of absorbing photons across a broad range of frequencies, but it is not accurate to say that "If a low energy photon in the near UV has enough energy to excite the electronic state of a molecular orbital, then a higher energy one will also have enough to do so as well and will be just as easily absorbed."
Currently around €1800 so not inexpensive... Thanks to my patrons for helping out with it! But an equivalent model from a well-known laboratory equipment brand would probably be twice as expensive...
My dad got my a halogen bulb desk lamp from Costco in 1998. it still works perfectly fine today and has not dimmed or changed color temp at all. i often would forget and leave it on overnight as a kid too. i swear those lamps are black magic.
3:28 It won't actually last 25,000 hours because they won't make as much money selling you a lamp that lasts that long. Expect it to fail within the same time span as the halogen bulbs.
I remember getting a letter from Ikea in the 80's or 90's recalling a halogen desk light that I had. It apparently let out a lot of UV. But I had already discarded it because of the excessive heat radiation it produced.
I work at a TV station. We've mostly replaced the studio lights with LEDs, but there's still a few high wattage (1KW+) ARRI lamps kicking around. Those all have Fresnel lenses. A lot of the portable halogen kits for video production were bare bulb. Just a set of folding barn doors for protection when stowed. Was drilled into us back in college to never touch them. Of course every time you rented the kit, there was always at least one bulb was burned out and needed replacing. So you'd have to gingerly fondle the spares with a set of gloves. Those also got so obscenely hot that it was rare to see ones that didn't have melted plastic parts. I'm glad they've been phased out.
When I was younger I made the mistake of breaking a halogen lightbulb with a hammer. It was from a car headlight and I needed to dispose of it, so I decided to break it, the bang from the pressure was immense, it sounded like a gunshot, and glass went everywhere. I’m surprised I wasn’t hit by any of it, now I devote my time to collecting interesting bulbs and vacuum tubes
Yikes ! Fortunately it wasn't a xenon bulb from a cinema projector as they contain a gas under a much higher pressure than halogen bulbs and can really cause serious damage when they burst. For that reason technicians in charge of replacing the bulbs have to wear a full suit as well as gloves and a face shield to protect themselves from shrapnel in unfortunates cases and also the door to the lamp on modern projectors even comes with a key lock to keep random people out of the danger zone basically. The bulbs also come in protective casings designed to contain the shrapnel and shockwave in case they burst during transport. Most of the time it's either a hard plastic box the shape of the bulb but it can also be a thick fabric wrapper.
@@psirvent8 those things go up to 200 bar, the largest bulb I have is a 1kw cloud base detection light and that has barely any pressure, I don’t deal with high pressure halogens anymore, I’m not taking chances again 😅
Thanks for that vital information! I have a (quite small, 20 watts or so) halogen lamp in my cubby in my bathroom. I was wondering why the plastic is yellowing over time, and while watching your video i remembered that the glas over it broke some time ago. Well, that explains it. I hope i haven’t done any damage to my eyes 😳. I ordered an led right after watching your video…
Halogens are supposedly the best at mimicing the sun. You need IR for your eyes at the same time because of repair issues I read? And leds miss out on those wavelengths. I don't even know what to believe these days though.
50 hours is because they run it way hotter, so the lamp does evaporate faster, and the halogen cycle will not be running fast enough to stop it from sputtering onto the glass. For a better UV source you need a metal halide lamp, as those that are intended for enclosed fixtures only have a thinner UV block layer on the quartz glass outer, which you can see fluoresce a lovely blue during run up, where the UV output is high, but the internal lamp pressure is not so high, and the light output is around 10% of the full output. The halogen lamps also need the glass outdoors, as they are very effective insect attractors, I was using one while camping, and the next morning I had a big pile of very well crisped insects on the ground in front of it, attracted to the light, and cooked on the front glass, as well as the lamp body.
I really hope they will eventually start making LEDs with reasonable spectrae. It's MUCH better compared to the 2005-2010 LEDs but still suck compared to halogens. Lately I switched away from halogens in my kitchen but honestly want to go back. :/
@@bzqp2 yeah 80's are the usual ones you get, makes colors look poor... If you look up the color spectrum of a low CRI bulbs VS a high CRI you will see how spiky the graph looks, so some colors are overblown, and others look dull since the bulb isn't producing that wavelength to save cost on phosphor.
If your willing to pay for it, Yuji LED make bulbs with 98 CRI that comes in 2700k to 6500k white. I got a set of their A19 base bulbs and they look much better in color compared to regular LEDs you find
I have used halogen lamps in the summertime late at night. The halogen lamp will attract the biggest, craziest looking flying beetles you’ll ever see. Some of the bugs look like they are not from Earth
As will incandescent bulbs and white LEDs will do as well. Bugs are actually attracted to the green and blue wavelengths in addition to the UV. This is why there are amber and yellow lamps available not to attract bugs.
Would you be able to do similar tests with plant grow bulbs? I’m interested in the UV output compared to regular fluorescent bulbs, they always look a little more blue.
@@psirvent8 No, they're nowhere near as bad, but you can get special glasses that both protect your eyes from the brightness and also help render the colours properly so you can see any insects or nutrient deficiencies better.
@@MattyEnglandThank's for the reply. I just happen to have gotten a couple of 400W HPS bulbs as part of my new collection of discharge lamps a few days ago, however I don't grow anything indoors and the color rendering doesn't matter enough to justify the purchase of expensive goggles as far as I'm concerned. In fact I already knew they were a thing, however because of their high price and the fact that they won't get much use given how little I use my HPS lamps at least to this day, I'll probably not buy them anytime soon. Now I used one of those bulbs to light up a room and despite having had sunglasses on and the bulb concealed from direct view I still got eyestrain afterwards. I also tried wearing my ski goggles instead but they didn't reduce the brightness of the light at all due to their orange tint, unlike my sunglasses, however the ski goggles happen to work quite well when I use my 400W mercury vapor blacklight or my 250W metal halide floodlight instead, and unlike the HPS goggles I can also use them for skiing or to protect my eyes from UVC tubes as well, although I also have to hold a glass panel in front of my face to effectively block the UVC since the goggles aren't as effective against UVC as they are against UVA and UVB.
If incandescent bulbs are always dimmed up to full brightness and dimmed back down to off, they will last almost forever. The 150 watt incandescent floods in my kitchen are 30 years old; those filaments have never once been subjected to the stress of being heated from room temperature to white hot in an instant.
I had one too! But it fell apart during a move. You just reminded me that I still have the half-tube glass cover that was over the halogen bulb in it. It is made of thick glass so should make for a great UVC+B block filter... Thanks for the reminder and early watch, Aaron :)
@@brainiac75 I did the opposite, I still have the functioning lamp, but I broke the little UV glass during a move, but luckily it shines on the ceiling, and not directly on anyone. On top of that it's not used much.
@@aarongreenfield9038Same for me during my childhood, we had several of these tall lamps, most without any glass over the bulb and I don't remember having suffered from eyestrain or anything related to the UV. Might get ARMD or cataract earlier though.
@@psirvent8 You don't really need them anyways since you're not in line of sight with the bulb, and I noticed the bulb's tend to last about twice as long without it anyways, because they're not getting anywhere near as hot.
A vendor at Teotihuacan told us that the ancient Aztecs would view the sun/ eclipses through shards of obsidian glass. I checked it out sure enough, you can see a clear view of the sun through even a thick piece of obsidian. But if you look online, there's a debate about it's safety as viewing the sun through obsidian is not an approved method and may be potentially dangerous to your eyes. It'd be cool if you did a quick video about the levels of light (UV, visible, IR) that go through obsidian.
Some years ago I visited a company in Surrey called ERA Technology and in one of their labs they used to test halogen lamps. One of the tests involved firing a high-power IR laser at the filament of an energised lamp to test the capsule integrity. The laser vapourised the filament and the capsule was meant to remain intact as part of the compliance test. Unsurprisingly, a very large proportion of far-easter sourced lamps failed the test and were deemed unsafe as the capsule exploded. Compliant safe capsules remained intact and contained the exploding filament.
I didn't know this, very nice I see this video. I have actually used some (al be it small and short duration luckely) halogen lamp without glas in front of it (I think). Hopefully enough people see this as this is pretty important.
As a young kid I had a halogen lamp on my desk where I did crafts and homework. I broke the protective glass cover on the lamp after messing with it and burning lots of crayons/erasers on it. After that I also quickly broke the halogen bulb by touching it too much. I remember asking for a new bulb and seeing on the packaging of the halogen bulb that it said not to touch it, but without further explanation, so I asked my dad to install it. I then continued to use the lamp for many years without the glass cover... this video was mind blowing to me. I was worried at first but after reading the comments and researching more, I'm convinced the bulb (10W) was low power enough that there was no risk of adverse effects really.
The bulb could also have had been a UV-filtering version, in that case the lack of glass wouldn't have really mattered in term of UV emissions. Did you get any eye strain from using the lamp ? That can happen if there's no UV filter, although probably not with a 10W bulb as it will not produce that much UV compared to a blacklight for example.
They probably have special glasses or goggles as even a sodium lamp can hurt the eyes according to some articles I found on the web (Despite not emitting that much UV compared to metal halide or mercury vapor lamps).
Being a kid in the 1990s I most certainly remember them and they could be found at most stores at reasonable prices, from about $15 to $50, depending on the model, the higher priced ones had a full range dimmer, while the cheaper ones had high and low. 300 watts was typical, although before 1996 they were also available in 500 watt versions, afterwards Underwriters Laboratories pulled the listing off the 500 watt version and limited the wattage to 300, also around that time they came with the wire cage over the bowl, to reduce, but not eliminate, the risk of fire from curtains, etc from coming in contact. The fire risk, along with high power consumption led to its decline, and after the early to mid 2000s, seemed to have vanished off store shelves. Compact fluorescent, and 50-100-150 watt 3 way incandescent took over.
Cool 1500W lamps ! Didnt know they made 1000w into 500W sized bulbsall this time after collecting some old-stock bulbs my self. It would be wounderfull if you mke a video about the 1500W ones and 1000W ones. The fact that halogens produce UV is funny. T think that the reptile-halogen lights werent joking when saying about UV-A and UV-B. Maybe you should try a reptile-halogen light. They tend to also include the spectrum on thepackage but a real test would be cool. And as usually a great and reasearched video ! Keep it up with interesting light nulbs !
That is something I'm intrested in.. I have something similar, I bought a rgb LED strip (12 V, 60 LED/m, not water resistent) new from ebay and I noticed, if I have them switched on only blue, flourescent plastics glow. Now I'm a bit worried what wavelength it emits. Could that blue light be dangerous to my eyes. Maybe that could be a video idea for you. I just tested it and I feel like the green LED also stimulates some plastics)
Actually some plastics glow under blue and purple lights even if there's no UV at all. For the danger, if looking at the blue light hurts your eyes even the slightest bit I would advise not to keep using it as it can actually be harmful to the retina.
Now I am curious what spectrometer is that Edit: seems to be Lasertrack LR2, price is steep, but probably worth if you need both wide and narrow ranges
Thank's for the name suggestion, it appears that he doesn't want to share it with his viewers judging by the number of unanswered comments about that. And for the price it's actually more than what I paid for my (obviously second-hand) car, Lol.
Could you tell me about/link me to the USB spectrometer you use? I see the software has a range from about 200-1200, I know the software does some correcting itself based on the photodiode's sensitivity curve but do you know the range on your particular photodiode and if it can reasonably detect much outside the 200-1200 range? (for example, if you shined a 200nm source would it even detect it? or does it really lose sensitivity at that point? and the same with infrared, can this scope get the full halogen range?) Or is the software set to this range specifically because that's what it should be able to detect? It still seems like a solid range for a USB scope so I'm wondering how it much it costs.
I think no amount is really safe for that matter, however it's worth mentioning that a summer sun will give you way more UVB than any halogen lamp of reasonable power. UVC on the other hand will cause arc eyes aka welder's flash if you look at a powerful enough source of it for a sufficient amount of time, and the amount emitted by halogen lamps might be too small to be as much of a concern.
Thanks - great info. I'd like to know more about colour temperature of different lighting technologies and our colour perception response. You touched on that with "meat" looking better under halogen lamps and also in the bathroom for skin colour.
I’m glad you took time to compare to a led flood. I really have come to hate the color of led bulbs and I no longer care about the efficiency. Also, my tests show they are overdriving these LEDs and producing so much heat to the point where they consume almost 75 watts anyway. A traditional 75w bulb puts out plenty of light so how are we actually saving anything? Just give me my old 10 cent incandescent light bulbs back!!!
Is the UVB/C output of these small lamps so dangerous that you have had to wear gloves etc? Is it more powerful than a sun during a normal spring-summer day?
The glass is there to protect you if the light explodes, and to stop rain hitting the hot bulb and causing it to explode. Try a 1000w metal halide, that's UV for you.
Metal halide and mercury vapor lamps are safe to be around, because the outer bulb blocks most of the UV light from the arc tube. Serious skin burns, eye damage and in some cases blindness can occur when the outer bulb is broken and the arc tube continues to light, such incidents have occurred in gymnasiums in which fixtures have been struck with balls and other sports equipment. Special bulbs are (or were) available that contained a fuse in series with the arc tube that would burn up and disconnect after a short time if oxygen enters the lamp, these are known as self extinguishing lamps.
@@Sparky-ww5re The outer bulb doesn't block the UVA part of the spectrum and that can still cause eyestrain if you look directly at the bulb or are exposed to the light for too much time especially at close range. Ask me how I know. By the way some metal halide bulbs have UV-Block marked on them just like halogens and therefore glow blue under a blacklight but despite having a bulb like that in a outdoor floodlight with a thick glass cover I still got eyestrain from having spent too much time under that light.
good video, i had no idea of the dangers of halogens. fluorescent lamps can also be dangerous if you happen to have changed the transformer to a different model.
hello, i have a jc g4 12v max 35w halogen bulb in a desk lamp but the glass cracked and get removed, i cant find info about this bulb and i dont have spectrogram stuff, anyone here can test it?
We had one of these in the house I grew up in. It was a floor lamp in the living room. It used to attract moths and instantly incinerate them leading to that lovely cooked moth smell throughout the living room.
Hi, I have seen some halogen bulbs glow blue under UV light (365nm) - I guess those that glow have doped glass with some UV absorbing material...Any even one was slightly glowing blue for few seconds after turning the halogen off.
You're absolutely right and I'm glad not to be the only one to have found this magic trick out if we even call it a magic trick. No one mentioned it anywhere on the internet as far as I know. By the way some metal halide bulbs also glow blue under a blacklight as they have a doped quartz outer envelope to block at least some of the UV the arc tube puts out.
My dad had one of these we would use when doing touch up paint. It would be set up behind me while working. I remember after painting having a rather bad sunburn without spending time outside. I remember saying that I think the light did it and he said there was no way. It did have a glass cover but was probably from the 60's so who knows.
Maybe it was way too close to your body and touch up paint took so many hours that the sole UVA rays (Which are the only ones not to be filtered by the glass and also the least likely to cause sunburns given their low-ish energy) actually managed to get you sunburnt. Or maybe it was a burn caused by the heat alone, who knows ?
First and foremost, Thank you for showing full music credits, I love listening to these on Spotify or the like and when I do I hit the memories of RUclipsrs I've seen them on - something I like to do now and then 😋❤ Furthermore, what a short video! Felt like 30 seconds, it was really interesting - as all your videos of course, I haven't even thought or seen anything about UV on these in Sweden. Never crossed my mind, neither the long tubes or the spotlights and I've used them quite a bit. Can't wait for next video, always fun to watch! ❤
A healthy bit of UV-A is a must for good a CRI. Many things not only reflect light of a certain color but also fluoresce. The UV-A gets partially converted to visible light. Without that you are missing a bit of vibrancy in colors. No UV-A at all would send even Bob Ross into a rage fit.
Those high intensity compact lamps are actually only going to last the advertised 50 hours or so. They seem to be meant for situations where you need to vastly expand the capability of your existing fixtures temporarily. A volunteer organization I worked with used them to cover a fairly large site where we had shifts running from Friday evening to Monday morning three weekends in a row every year. The fixtures were lent to us by company that typically worked on much smaller construction sites, and these high intensity bulbs allowed us to keep the the central area with all the detail work very well lit and also make the surrounding logistical area safely lit with the relatively few fixtures we had available. Even going through one bulb per fixture every weekend it was much cheaper to use these than source more fixtures.
It's a shame these bulbs are banned... I have one on my bed a long tube one around 80 watts, the color is un replaceable And I was happy to find someone still selling em I bought 15
Halogens that are unfiltered have damaged my vision. Improperly installed Halogen lamps in automobiles are a dangerous nuisance. Their angle to pedestrians is often dangerous.
Could you give recommendations for light spectrometers that measure around 200-1000 nm? I saw the one you use, the Lastertack LR2 costs over 1,700 euros. Is there anything you can recommend and is more affordable?
I would really like to know what type / brand / model of spectrometer is used - out of curiosity. I know that cheap ones can be made out of an old webcam, and removing the IR filter.
I know this may be out of the scope of your videos, but i think it'd bring dangers "down to Earth" for people if you tried to find out the "real" consequences of being subjected to said dangers (UV in this case). For example, perhaps you could do some basic napkin "on average" math, like "If you were to use these most unfiltered halogen lamps, uncovered in your bathroom for the course of 1 year, you'd on average have x number of cells in your body that got split DNA; and overall cancer risks would increase by x%" Naturally its hard to be exact with hypotheticals like that, but it'd still be interesting to get a "real consequences" example, not just "its dangerous, dont do it". Because if it's +0.003% increased risk of cancer per year of having uncovered halogens in your house, or +15% increased risk, really matters. For example, Styropyro does this (extremely quick napkin math, but still effective), by simply saying for example "half a second's exposure to this laser, even its reflected light against a wall, will render permanent retina damage or completely blind you". That really rings home of the dangers, rather than a more vague "its not good" statement.
Banning incandescent bulbs is so frustrating. Nobody is using them unless they have a really good reason, due to the cost savings of better technology.
6:05 That light is called dichroic. It sises several thin layers of materials that have different indexes of refraction engineered mostly to reflect the visible light to the front and to throw the IR to the back so they don't heat the object being illuminated. But maybe it has an effect on the UV too
Interesting, for ages I had a 500W halogen as a back yard light, it never had a glass cover, nor is there any place to fit one. I got sick of replacing bulbs & the high operating cost, so it's now been replaced with a pair of 10W LED floods, they are way better as I can run them for extended periods without wondering about power bill shock.
For reference, I used to use a 500W halogen lamp with no front glass above my workbench in winter for the light and heat. I didn't experience any adverse effects despite it being about 800mm above my head.
If you never look directly into the light then it should be a lower risk since eyes are the most sensitive, but UVB and UVC are at long term exposure increasing the risk of skin cancer.
But I would like to see the differences in spectrum from ordinary warm white LEDs and daylight LEDs. The color temperature sometimes matter more than you think, and our preference is as I see it learned to accept the color temperature of warm white since incandescent light is warm white but daylight is preferred for best color representation and it makes us less tired.
Must be absorbed by the beard! 😁
Your second head should grow any day now.
Always nice crossing the path of another RUclipsr you like to follow.
that be why all your hair is gone on your heads
Back around 93 to 2000 I had halogen track lighting in one room with the lights aimed towards one wall. While the bulbs were replaced a few times they were never re-aimed but none of them had any glass covers...just the bare bulbs. The walls were painted blue and when we finally decided to redo the room we were surprised to see a very clear bleaching of the paint only where the lights had been aimed and it was even more evident where the lights had overlapped each other.
My closest McDonalds used to have this photo wallpaper above the cash registers, and a handful of halogen spotlights in the ceiling above. I don't know for how long they had that setup, but you could clearly see these triangular bleached areas below each spot, perfectly following the cone of light.
This sure explains why.
Same thing happened to coloured plastic films I had put in-front of the ones I had in my bedroom
Photobleaching can be cause by visible light too, and in some small measure even by NIR, if the source is intense enough and the exposure is long enough. The effect however is much more prominent at shorter wavelengths (blue and UV)
While a very interesting topic, people ignore the sun's increased UV output due to Grand solar minimum.
The scatter off objects is blatantly obvious and will cause cataracts (eventually, if eye protection is not worn). Even clear polycarbonate safety glasses filter UV.
So you are telling me that 99% of car headlights have radiation???!!!!
The main safety function of the glass cover is to contain the hot halogen capsule glass if it explodes.
There is quite a difference in the front/rear direction heat is emitted between the standard aluminised reflector and dichroic coated glass reflector.
Metal halide lamps emit considerable UV, some types have UV block glass, others rely on the glass on the enclosure.
Yes, the 1kw Metal Halides are vicious.
As well as protect the bulb from dirt and dust. Dirt + heat = possible fire.
Hi, I thought that the shielding protected IT from shattering. (“It” being the bulb) so basically, No shielding= Bulb explodes. Shielding=bulb lasts its Life. (At least that’s what I though)
I had one bulb that exploded (a g9 socket unprotected) and fortunately 😂it broke my phone glass and missed my eyes. so that protection is much more important than uv.
@@Stoney3K and to protect it from grease/oil (mostly from the fingers).
The bulb is made from quartz because glass would no withstand the very high temperatures, but the oil from fingers skin will blow it in a very short time, or at least crack it.
A friend of mine didn't know and installed the tubes with bare fingers, without cleaning them afterwards, all the bulbs died after a few hours, some lasted even less than that.
Yes do more on the incandescent bulbs please.
Despite their deceptively simple construction, they include quite fascinating and advanced concepts in physics to be implemented in their "modern" form. The coiled coil of the filament and the Langmuir sheath of gas flow in the lit bulb being just one.
Thank you for shedding light on this subject😁
I see what you did there ;) Thanks for the early watch!
This may not have made me laugh, but this is a good one. 😉
Dad joke. Groan. 😂
Ya burnt!😂
His assessments are great. He is a bright man.
In most cases the amount of UVB you can possibly get from halogen lights is so insignificant compared to any amount of Sunlight and cannot give you a sunburn even if it shines on you all day long.
That said, there were also specialized "Sunbathing" halogen lamps that ran so hot they actually looked blue. Very short lifetime on those as well.
For the 10 and 35 watters, sure, it's no biggie - but for the 400 - 1500 watters? I would like to be informed about it ;) Thanks for watching!
Yes thank you. It's trivial. Get back from the light and it's not a problem regardless of power that you can buy in a store.
The Sun is ~1366W/m^2 of actual light energy.
1500W halogen is going to be way below that because they're so inefficient, even if you're up close. You'd have to be right next to it.
Maybe its something to be measured and compared on a future video.
@@n-steam 1-2%, so 15-30W worth of light, right up on it
Edit: And at that, only a tiny sliver of that is UV energy. There's more threat from a 1W UV LED than in a 1500W halogen. 🤷♂️
@@MadScientist267 There's an area component to it too. Gonna make a guess and say the area of the light's face is 0.03m^2, so that 30W becomes 900W/m^2.
Awesome video and never something I had thought about before. I worked in a steel mill for nearly 25 years and we used tons of those 500W halogen and many had no glass just to aid in replacement (I, myself, am guilty of blowing up a few halogens in that time by touching it taking it out of the packaging).
Another thing that the front glass on halogen flood lights and the 12V PAR16 lamp you showed us do, is it helps to maximize the lifespan of the bulb by prolonging the cooling time of the bulb glass.
And for the halogen flood light, the front glass will also catch flying glass shards in case the bulb explodes.
I bought a handheld 1000w halogen lamp from a second had store that specializes in photography. It's tiny, not that long tube format but a bulb type of several cm.
When it's powered up there's seemingly an extra sun under the sky. After a while you can smell litte dust particles just being incinerated. I'm always impressed with that monster light.
I wonder what the spectrum is like.
I have one of those to , with Handel on right? not ment to be on very long ,because the whole thing gets very hot fast, these was
Produced when they used 8 mm celoid film reels, often they did not expose very long clips in one go, so
The bad cooling was a lesser issue
Then today I think. Mine smell burnt dust also when on and yes it's like having your own sun.
@@perstaffanlundgren Yes the one made with bakelite and metal and glasfibres. It's a beast but even more so because it's basicly a pointsource. i never used it more than half a minute at a time because of the intensity and handheld bizar power. Awesome thing. Don't think I'll let my 5 yr old kid play with it. She can have it when she can play and understand with fire and electricity and not harm anyone seriously.
Microwaves and their magnetrons are another wonderfull dangerous but so interesting system to experiment with.
As an event/theatre lighting tech I am unfazed by 1kW lamps, they have been the standard for years now. A lot of theatres even still use 2kW halogens for their front lights, just an array of ~12 2kW lights baking on the stage aided by 1kW's and 750w's
Recently the US outlawed lots of halogen and incandescent bulbs. But they did not put in an import ban into the law. As someone who sells lightbulbs for a living this is kinda infuriating. People come in looking for a specific bulb and I have to tell them that I can't sell them one but they can order it online from China...
Harbor freight store still sells it.
Why can't u just buy from China and resell?
@@Warp2090 As a retail store we cant sell them due to the "Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007." Which went into effect in 2023. It makes it "illegal" for us to sell them. I am not sure on exactly how it works but since we are a franchise of a large company the large company would get fined if the EPA inspected us and found us selling bulbs that dont output at least 45 lumens per watt (most incandescent bulbs dont) or aren't on the approved exemption list. The large company would then fine us and potentially take away our store. Its stupid and I hate telling 90+ year old people, who dont even know what the internet is, that they have to order a bulb online but its all I can do.
@@x9x9x9x9x9hopefully people vote the right way next time
@@thedopplereffect00 Imma be honest idk what the right way is this time around. Also this act was made by the Bush administration (repub) and then actually signed in by Biden (dem)...
You can see a UV Stop in Halogen Lamps if you shine a UV light source at them, they will glow Blue-ish if a Filter is present.
Absolutely and I'm glad to not be the only one to have found this magic trick if I can call it like that.
No one else makes mention of it on the web, and I found that it also applies to metal halide bulbs that have UV filters.
I was at a fashion show (a long time ago) and the big halogen lamp in a reflector ABOVE the catwalk melted, and the molten glass missed one of the models by just a few centimeters. The lamp was obviously unprotected. Imagine the horror if the glass had fallen on the head of a model.
Ouch, that wouldn't have been good. If the bits fell on a wood floor the pieces would probably start smoking.
I personally never noticed that halogen lamps are always behind a glass cover...
Really interesting Video! 👍
I used to get similar halogen bulbs from the fusers of old laser printers. They were really long, but probably a few hundred watts at most. They scared the hell out of my dutch rabbit once, when she must have thought that the sun moved into my living room.
Biggest I have is a self ballasted 360W sodium vapour lamp, which has a 200W internal tungsten filament lamp as ballast for a 160W HPS capsule. ASL a few 400W mercury vapour lamps as well, which i used as room lighting when I wanted a lot of light, as they have a very good CRI by design, as they are high bay lamps for indoor use.
@@SeanBZA Where'd you get your hands on a self ballasted sodium lamp?? I've been looking for one for absolutely ages! (Something like 3 years...)
@@sovb An old Chinese lamp, got it at a lighting and electrical supplier, and wanted it the second I saw it in the big box of reduced price units.
@@SeanBZA Did you mean self ballasted mercury? I've never heard of a self ballasted sodium lamp before, that sounds really interesting.
@@Snowcube No it has that yellow sodium glow. Think it was mostly used on fishing boats, the yellow penetrates water better. Internally mostly SBMV, just the mercury has a lot of sodium dissolved in it.
A new Braniac video! I'm loving your bright attitude here 😄
Man even when I don't know about something in your videos you explain this like a hot knife in a butter, also your intro is coolest i ever saw
The MR16 that you noticed filter UV lights are known here as "Dichroic" lamps, the UV light is NOT reflected by the metallized coating, which is a dichroic mirror that only reflects visible light. You may also see a smaller amount of IR with them as well. Try putting your spectrometer to the back of the lamp and you'll probably find your missing spectrum. You can't measure it like you did because the filament is vertical so most of the energy is radiated sideways for the parabolic mirrors to catch. You can also try with an AR111 lamp which is a metalic reflector, not dichroic (AR111 = Alu reflector, 111mm). These are often used in applications where you can't release the heat into the recessed ceiling behind.
The EU ban hit me hard...
But not for private lighting. I'm currently working on my PhD in semiconductor technology and using a sputter chamber.
The tool has a heated chuck to put the wafer on. The heater has to withstand ultra high vacuum and temperatures of around 300°C.
The tool manufacturer decided to use three 400W halogen lamps as heat sources since the glass perfectly isolates the hot metal from the vacuum and thus prevents contamination of my samples.
We build up a stock as spare parts but they break way faster than anticipated...
Without some good connection to a friend outside of EU they would be unobtanium.
The EU needs to get lost. They even want to ban fluorescent lamps this year.
50h bulbs are actually quite common for microscopes and projectors.
For reference, check out the OSRAM 64640 HLX
There are other versions with 300h and 2000h iirc and they are not that much more expensive.
Although prices might vary quite a bit now as availability gets worse.
speaking about projectors lamps, i heard IMAX lamp is some incredible halogen or ark lamp that is water cooled and has explosion risks if operated carelessly
@@Gameplayer55055 that sounds like it would make an interesting video. I mean how the light works. Not it exploding.. although sadly I'm sure that would get a lot more views than how it works.
@@Gameplayer55055 You should check out Photonicinductions youtube channel, he powers and blows up lamps like the imax lamp in his videos
I believe some lamps used for photography had super thin filaments for a colder color temperature resulting in an avrage life in the tens of hours, that may be what that is.
Yeah, it is mentioned on the paper that it is for 'professional use on stages, theatres etc.' Not meant for lighting a home. 50 hours is still rather ridiculous though ;) Thanks for watching!
Yeah photoflood bulbs, normal incandescent but at 3200-3400K cct.
@@freevipservers bulbs with similar color temperature are available as halogens but with significantly longer lifespans, of course. I use 1000w 3240k studio lights with a quoted lifespan of a few hundred hours, iirc. Haven't looked in a while. Not quite the 3400 of a 500w photoflood though.
I used such lamps when filming on super-8 in the 80s, the film sensitivity was 16 or 64 iso, much light was needed. The lamps where VERY fragile and almost glowed red for 10 seconds when switched off. These were also very good to find faults in your apartment mains wiring.
@@benoitgrange3479 how would you find those wiring faults? Follow the smoke?
This is an interesting topic to cover, though I am more curious about those hi-power halogens! Would love to see a video on them! Good video overall.
I use to be an electrical contractor and also done my apprenticeship after leaving school, anyway back in the day I had fitted many of these lights I have even fitted 3kw lights to loading bays, yards etc and for testing purposes operated them without the safety glass. Back in the 809's i wasn't aware of the uvc problem and i dont remember collage remarking on about it. Anyway each time i had left an installation the safety was attached to the light and cover screwed up tight , makes you wonder about halogen car headlights!
Well, some halogen car bulbs do filter UV by themselves as they glow blue under a blacklight.
I did sometimes get mild UV suntan from working under high power halogen lamps. But not as bad as from arc welding on a hot day without skin protection from the arc .
Might be the already existing melanin in your skin getting oxidized by the UVA rays, causing a light tan that will most likely disappear quite quickly.
However it can also cause premature aging of your skin as well as increase your chances of getting a melanoma much later.
Despite not causing sunburns.
This is basically like a low power version of the UVA tubes used in tanning salons.
I believe the 50 hours on that 1000 watt lamp at the end. Running hotter for more output and efficiency (and more blue and UV!), but at the cost of servcie life.
See its use, it's meant for theaters etc. Not for general lighting.
I remember halogen bulbs. Some Torche lamps used to use them and put out good light. These were actually popular in the 1990:. But a lot of people phased them out because of the heat risk. Some of the halogen lights also used to be popular outdoors on commercial buildings, tennis courts, horse arenas, amphitheaters, and other applications.
I remember the 90s. Back when the future was bright. I don't want to be here anymore.
Thank you for doing the testing, and explaining the results. That is a nice light meter "Spectrometer" you have there.
Watching your video not only can learn knowledge but also is so satisfied from unboxing.
Great channel. Love the experiments you do. Very interesting and always have a few surprise results which makes for great science
The main reason for glass is in case the lamp explode, which they often do. The UV radiation is actually negliable. Put the transducer at typical working distance and see a massive reduction.
What about H4 car lamps? They are halogen too. But only behind a super thin plastic cover. At least on my e-up. But the old Škoda 130L from 1986 has thick glass headlights. Are new cars emitting UV light from their halogen bulbs through their super thin plastic headlights? Or does it filter it out?
Well, the Philips H4 bulbs that came with my car do have UV filtering as they glow blue under a blacklight.
Plastics on the other hand can also block UV.
I have energy saving LED everywhere in my house, but you are absolutely right, food looks somewhat off, so I use an old incandecent lamp in my kitchen, hopefully it doesn't die too soon. I wonder if there is any LED that can make look food "normal".
HiCRI LEDs can do that
LEDs are getting better and you should be able to find some with a CRI/RA rating of >90 relatively cheap (IKEA has them last I checked). They are much better than the old ">80" horror shows... LEDs with >95 are even better but much more expensive and I've only seen them in dedicated studio lights. Thanks for watching!
Not anything that you can pick up in a semiregular store.
FEIT Enhance or Sylvania Tru-Wave bulbs are 90-93 CRI in warm white 3000K and are sold at many stores now - Menards, ACE Hardware, Costco, and online.
Lidl sometimes sells >97's in Europe for pretty cheap, so you may be able to find them there.
The leaflet included with professional theater lights (like PAR 64 bulbs) does warn for skin burn due to UV emissions.
Regrettably some professional bulbs also only have an estimated life of 50 hours, although "long life" versions might be available.
That's interesting.
Do you have any links to a PDF version of that leaflet by any chance ?
Brainiac75
Have you tested the actual sunscreen to see if it does actually protect against UV lights a b and c?
Yes, I used it on a banana and UVC source in this video: ruclips.net/video/bb1Nc1oygTs/видео.html
The A and B protection is trivial in sunscreens, but UVC protection is rare! Thanks for watching :)
@@brainiac75 I believe this is fine because almost no UVC makes it to Earth's surface from what I understand.
In addition to UVC from the sun not being able to penetrate the atmosphere as the above comment notes, the UVC blocking label thing on the sunscreen is kind of a marketing gimmick. Any organic molecule in existence that is providing strong absorption in the UVA will also provide at least as good or better protection (absorption and conversion into heat) in the UVB and UVC. If a low energy photon in the near UV has enough energy to excite the electronic state of a molecular orbital, then a higher energy one will also have enough to do so as well and will be just as easily absorbed. This only changes when you start getting into the x-ray region where the energy and momentum of the photons becomes so large it can start barreling through significant depths of matter WHILE exciting/ionizing it along the way regardless of what it's made of.
@@Muonium1 I think the "special" sunscreen is for arc welding, where the atmosphere doesn't protect us.
Regarding the "it will absorb higher energies as well", interesting.
I always thought different atoms/ electron states/ chemical bonds would absorb specific wavelengths/ photons.
Do the just take as much as they can, and let the Photon go on with the rest? Or is this a different kind of interaction than what I am thinking about?
@@Muonium1 That is not correct. The absorption spectrum of Avobenzone, a common sunscreen ingredient, clearly shows that it is about 4-5x more effective at absorbing light in the UVA range than in the UVB/UVC range. That's why multiple compounds are needed to also block B and C effectively.
Large, complex molecules may have fairly large absorption spectrums, but it is not accurate to say that "Any organic molecule in existence that is providing strong absorption in the UVA will also provide at least as good or better protection... in the UVB and UVC".
An atom/molecule can only absorb photons with energies corresponding to available electron energy level transitions. Due to some quantum stuff I don't fully understand, the frequency of the photon doesn't have to be exactly equal, but it needs to be close. A large, complex molecule may have numerous available transitions and therefore be capable of absorbing photons across a broad range of frequencies, but it is not accurate to say that "If a low energy photon in the near UV has enough energy to excite the electronic state of a molecular orbital, then a higher energy one will also have enough to do so as well and will be just as easily absorbed."
How much did the spectrometer cost?
Currently around €1800 so not inexpensive... Thanks to my patrons for helping out with it! But an equivalent model from a well-known laboratory equipment brand would probably be twice as expensive...
You should do a video on the magic of the halogen cycle. Most people don't know about it.
Even though the amount of uv is insignificant really this is actually pretty interesting. I like your videos they are addicting.
Excellent ... you gave us a video, so we don't go blind and can keep seeing your videos. Thank you ... cheers ...
My dad got my a halogen bulb desk lamp from Costco in 1998. it still works perfectly fine today and has not dimmed or changed color temp at all. i often would forget and leave it on overnight as a kid too. i swear those lamps are black magic.
Wow I want one of those! They normally break so fast.
3:28 It won't actually last 25,000 hours because they won't make as much money selling you a lamp that lasts that long. Expect it to fail within the same time span as the halogen bulbs.
I remember getting a letter from Ikea in the 80's or 90's recalling a halogen desk light that I had. It apparently let out a lot of UV. But I had already discarded it because of the excessive heat radiation it produced.
I work at a TV station. We've mostly replaced the studio lights with LEDs, but there's still a few high wattage (1KW+) ARRI lamps kicking around. Those all have Fresnel lenses. A lot of the portable halogen kits for video production were bare bulb. Just a set of folding barn doors for protection when stowed. Was drilled into us back in college to never touch them. Of course every time you rented the kit, there was always at least one bulb was burned out and needed replacing. So you'd have to gingerly fondle the spares with a set of gloves. Those also got so obscenely hot that it was rare to see ones that didn't have melted plastic parts. I'm glad they've been phased out.
When I was younger I made the mistake of breaking a halogen lightbulb with a hammer. It was from a car headlight and I needed to dispose of it, so I decided to break it, the bang from the pressure was immense, it sounded like a gunshot, and glass went everywhere. I’m surprised I wasn’t hit by any of it, now I devote my time to collecting interesting bulbs and vacuum tubes
Yikes !
Fortunately it wasn't a xenon bulb from a cinema projector as they contain a gas under a much higher pressure than halogen bulbs and can really cause serious damage when they burst.
For that reason technicians in charge of replacing the bulbs have to wear a full suit as well as gloves and a face shield to protect themselves from shrapnel in unfortunates cases and also the door to the lamp on modern projectors even comes with a key lock to keep random people out of the danger zone basically.
The bulbs also come in protective casings designed to contain the shrapnel and shockwave in case they burst during transport.
Most of the time it's either a hard plastic box the shape of the bulb but it can also be a thick fabric wrapper.
@@psirvent8 those things go up to 200 bar, the largest bulb I have is a 1kw cloud base detection light and that has barely any pressure, I don’t deal with high pressure halogens anymore, I’m not taking chances again 😅
@@psirvent8 photonicinduction also did a video on those xenon lamps
Thanks for that vital information! I have a (quite small, 20 watts or so) halogen lamp in my cubby in my bathroom. I was wondering why the plastic is yellowing over time, and while watching your video i remembered that the glas over it broke some time ago. Well, that explains it. I hope i haven’t done any damage to my eyes 😳. I ordered an led right after watching your video…
Halogens are supposedly the best at mimicing the sun. You need IR for your eyes at the same time because of repair issues I read? And leds miss out on those wavelengths. I don't even know what to believe these days though.
Did you get any eye strain from looking at the light from those bulbs ?
@@psirvent8 not really. I 5hink compared to what the sun puts out this wasn’t even comparable. But I replaced it, just to be sure…
50 hours is because they run it way hotter, so the lamp does evaporate faster, and the halogen cycle will not be running fast enough to stop it from sputtering onto the glass.
For a better UV source you need a metal halide lamp, as those that are intended for enclosed fixtures only have a thinner UV block layer on the quartz glass outer, which you can see fluoresce a lovely blue during run up, where the UV output is high, but the internal lamp pressure is not so high, and the light output is around 10% of the full output. The halogen lamps also need the glass outdoors, as they are very effective insect attractors, I was using one while camping, and the next morning I had a big pile of very well crisped insects on the ground in front of it, attracted to the light, and cooked on the front glass, as well as the lamp body.
Even though it is dated tech, i'd love to see you do some of the same tests with Sodium (HPS), quartz metal halide and ceramic metal halide.
Same.
I really hope they will eventually start making LEDs with reasonable spectrae. It's MUCH better compared to the 2005-2010 LEDs but still suck compared to halogens. Lately I switched away from halogens in my kitchen but honestly want to go back. :/
Use the high CRI LED bulbs like FEIT Enhance or Sylvania Tru-Wave bulbs. Much brighter and better color rendition 90-93 CRI even in warm white 3000K.
Look for high CRI bulbs. You have to pay more for them, but the light output is excellent.
Thanks, will check it out. From what I see the bulb I have now is 80CRI which looks pretty poor.
@@bzqp2 yeah 80's are the usual ones you get, makes colors look poor... If you look up the color spectrum of a low CRI bulbs VS a high CRI you will see how spiky the graph looks, so some colors are overblown, and others look dull since the bulb isn't producing that wavelength to save cost on phosphor.
If your willing to pay for it, Yuji LED make bulbs with 98 CRI that comes in 2700k to 6500k white. I got a set of their A19 base bulbs and they look much better in color compared to regular LEDs you find
I have used halogen lamps in the summertime late at night. The halogen lamp will attract the biggest, craziest looking flying beetles you’ll ever see. Some of the bugs look like they are not from Earth
As will incandescent bulbs and white LEDs will do as well.
Bugs are actually attracted to the green and blue wavelengths in addition to the UV.
This is why there are amber and yellow lamps available not to attract bugs.
The gloves made me chuckle. Is this one of those radioactive bulbs? 😄👍😎
Would you be able to do similar tests with plant grow bulbs? I’m interested in the UV output compared to regular fluorescent bulbs, they always look a little more blue.
If you mean Metal Halides then they put out a LOT of UV, always wear good eye protection in grow rooms.
@@MattyEnglandWhat about high pressure sodium bulbs though ?
Are they as bad as metal halides ?
@@psirvent8 No, they're nowhere near as bad, but you can get special glasses that both protect your eyes from the brightness and also help render the colours properly so you can see any insects or nutrient deficiencies better.
@@MattyEnglandThank's for the reply.
I just happen to have gotten a couple of 400W HPS bulbs as part of my new collection of discharge lamps a few days ago, however I don't grow anything indoors and the color rendering doesn't matter enough to justify the purchase of expensive goggles as far as I'm concerned.
In fact I already knew they were a thing, however because of their high price and the fact that they won't get much use given how little I use my HPS lamps at least to this day, I'll probably not buy them anytime soon.
Now I used one of those bulbs to light up a room and despite having had sunglasses on and the bulb concealed from direct view I still got eyestrain afterwards.
I also tried wearing my ski goggles instead but they didn't reduce the brightness of the light at all due to their orange tint, unlike my sunglasses, however the ski goggles happen to work quite well when I use my 400W mercury vapor blacklight or my 250W metal halide floodlight instead, and unlike the HPS goggles I can also use them for skiing or to protect my eyes from UVC tubes as well, although I also have to hold a glass panel in front of my face to effectively block the UVC since the goggles aren't as effective against UVC as they are against UVA and UVB.
If incandescent bulbs are always dimmed up to full brightness and dimmed back down to off, they will last almost forever. The 150 watt incandescent floods in my kitchen are 30 years old; those filaments have never once been subjected to the stress of being heated from room temperature to white hot in an instant.
I have one of those tall lamps that reflect the light upwards to the ceiling, and it has that same long halogen bulb, except it is 500 W.
I had one too! But it fell apart during a move. You just reminded me that I still have the half-tube glass cover that was over the halogen bulb in it. It is made of thick glass so should make for a great UVC+B block filter... Thanks for the reminder and early watch, Aaron :)
@@brainiac75 I did the opposite, I still have the functioning lamp, but I broke the little UV glass during a move, but luckily it shines on the ceiling, and not directly on anyone. On top of that it's not used much.
@@aarongreenfield9038Same for me during my childhood, we had several of these tall lamps, most without any glass over the bulb and I don't remember having suffered from eyestrain or anything related to the UV.
Might get ARMD or cataract earlier though.
@@psirvent8 You don't really need them anyways since you're not in line of sight with the bulb, and I noticed the bulb's tend to last about twice as long without it anyways, because they're not getting anywhere near as hot.
A vendor at Teotihuacan told us that the ancient Aztecs would view the sun/ eclipses through shards of obsidian glass. I checked it out sure enough, you can see a clear view of the sun through even a thick piece of obsidian.
But if you look online, there's a debate about it's safety as viewing the sun through obsidian is not an approved method and may be potentially dangerous to your eyes.
It'd be cool if you did a quick video about the levels of light (UV, visible, IR) that go through obsidian.
Some years ago I visited a company in Surrey called ERA Technology and in one of their labs they used to test halogen lamps. One of the tests involved firing a high-power IR laser at the filament of an energised lamp to test the capsule integrity. The laser vapourised the filament and the capsule was meant to remain intact as part of the compliance test. Unsurprisingly, a very large proportion of far-easter sourced lamps failed the test and were deemed unsafe as the capsule exploded. Compliant safe capsules remained intact and contained the exploding filament.
I didn't know this, very nice I see this video. I have actually used some (al be it small and short duration luckely) halogen lamp without glas in front of it (I think). Hopefully enough people see this as this is pretty important.
Yes, make more content like this. 8:57
What I remember of Halogen was that it was orange tinted light, Cheap to use, and that people exposed to it would get angry.
As a young kid I had a halogen lamp on my desk where I did crafts and homework. I broke the protective glass cover on the lamp after messing with it and burning lots of crayons/erasers on it. After that I also quickly broke the halogen bulb by touching it too much. I remember asking for a new bulb and seeing on the packaging of the halogen bulb that it said not to touch it, but without further explanation, so I asked my dad to install it. I then continued to use the lamp for many years without the glass cover... this video was mind blowing to me. I was worried at first but after reading the comments and researching more, I'm convinced the bulb (10W) was low power enough that there was no risk of adverse effects really.
The bulb could also have had been a UV-filtering version, in that case the lack of glass wouldn't have really mattered in term of UV emissions.
Did you get any eye strain from using the lamp ?
That can happen if there's no UV filter, although probably not with a 10W bulb as it will not produce that much UV compared to a blacklight for example.
The sight of seeing the 1000 watts glow inside a 500watt casing, made me subscribe.
what about those people working in big gardening houses and green houses with full spectrum lights for the flowering atum simulated
They probably have special glasses or goggles as even a sodium lamp can hurt the eyes according to some articles I found on the web (Despite not emitting that much UV compared to metal halide or mercury vapor lamps).
We used to light cigarettes on my halogen lamp when I was a teenager.
Years ago halogen floor lamps were quite popular, I seem to remember they were banned.
Being a kid in the 1990s I most certainly remember them and they could be found at most stores at reasonable prices, from about $15 to $50, depending on the model, the higher priced ones had a full range dimmer, while the cheaper ones had high and low. 300 watts was typical, although before 1996 they were also available in 500 watt versions, afterwards Underwriters Laboratories pulled the listing off the 500 watt version and limited the wattage to 300, also around that time they came with the wire cage over the bowl, to reduce, but not eliminate, the risk of fire from curtains, etc from coming in contact. The fire risk, along with high power consumption led to its decline, and after the early to mid 2000s, seemed to have vanished off store shelves. Compact fluorescent, and 50-100-150 watt 3 way incandescent took over.
Cool 1500W lamps ! Didnt know they made 1000w into 500W sized bulbsall this time after collecting some old-stock bulbs my self. It would be wounderfull if you mke a video about the 1500W ones and 1000W ones. The fact that halogens produce UV is funny. T think that the reptile-halogen lights werent joking when saying about UV-A and UV-B. Maybe you should try a reptile-halogen light. They tend to also include the spectrum on thepackage but a real test would be cool. And as usually a great and reasearched video ! Keep it up with interesting light nulbs !
This video was enlightening
That is something I'm intrested in.. I have something similar, I bought a rgb LED strip (12 V, 60 LED/m, not water resistent) new from ebay and I noticed, if I have them switched on only blue, flourescent plastics glow. Now I'm a bit worried what wavelength it emits. Could that blue light be dangerous to my eyes. Maybe that could be a video idea for you. I just tested it and I feel like the green LED also stimulates some plastics)
Actually some plastics glow under blue and purple lights even if there's no UV at all.
For the danger, if looking at the blue light hurts your eyes even the slightest bit I would advise not to keep using it as it can actually be harmful to the retina.
Now I am curious what spectrometer is that
Edit: seems to be Lasertrack LR2, price is steep, but probably worth if you need both wide and narrow ranges
Thank's for the name suggestion, it appears that he doesn't want to share it with his viewers judging by the number of unanswered comments about that.
And for the price it's actually more than what I paid for my (obviously second-hand) car, Lol.
Could you tell me about/link me to the USB spectrometer you use? I see the software has a range from about 200-1200, I know the software does some correcting itself based on the photodiode's sensitivity curve but do you know the range on your particular photodiode and if it can reasonably detect much outside the 200-1200 range? (for example, if you shined a 200nm source would it even detect it? or does it really lose sensitivity at that point? and the same with infrared, can this scope get the full halogen range?) Or is the software set to this range specifically because that's what it should be able to detect? It still seems like a solid range for a USB scope so I'm wondering how it much it costs.
I notice that the UVB/C detected with each bulb is a very low level. Is there any amount that is generally safe? Or is even a tiny amount dangerous?
I think no amount is really safe for that matter, however it's worth mentioning that a summer sun will give you way more UVB than any halogen lamp of reasonable power.
UVC on the other hand will cause arc eyes aka welder's flash if you look at a powerful enough source of it for a sufficient amount of time, and the amount emitted by halogen lamps might be too small to be as much of a concern.
Thanks - great info.
I'd like to know more about colour temperature of different lighting technologies and our colour perception response. You touched on that with "meat" looking better under halogen lamps and also in the bathroom for skin colour.
I’m glad you took time to compare to a led flood. I really have come to hate the color of led bulbs and I no longer care about the efficiency. Also, my tests show they are overdriving these LEDs and producing so much heat to the point where they consume almost 75 watts anyway. A traditional 75w bulb puts out plenty of light so how are we actually saving anything?
Just give me my old 10 cent incandescent light bulbs back!!!
Can you test a smartphone flashlight's CRI?
Is the UVB/C output of these small lamps so dangerous that you have had to wear gloves etc? Is it more powerful than a sun during a normal spring-summer day?
I assume the gloves and thick clothes are more for protection from glass shards in case the lightbulb explodes, which halogen bulbs love to do
There is no UVC in sunlight, as it is blocked by the atmosphere. Only artificial lights emit UVC.
The glass is there to protect you if the light explodes, and to stop rain hitting the hot bulb and causing it to explode.
Try a 1000w metal halide, that's UV for you.
Metal halide and mercury vapor lamps are safe to be around, because the outer bulb blocks most of the UV light from the arc tube. Serious skin burns, eye damage and in some cases blindness can occur when the outer bulb is broken and the arc tube continues to light, such incidents have occurred in gymnasiums in which fixtures have been struck with balls and other sports equipment. Special bulbs are (or were) available that contained a fuse in series with the arc tube that would burn up and disconnect after a short time if oxygen enters the lamp, these are known as self extinguishing lamps.
@@Sparky-ww5re The outer bulb doesn't block the UVA part of the spectrum and that can still cause eyestrain if you look directly at the bulb or are exposed to the light for too much time especially at close range.
Ask me how I know.
By the way some metal halide bulbs have UV-Block marked on them just like halogens and therefore glow blue under a blacklight but despite having a bulb like that in a outdoor floodlight with a thick glass cover I still got eyestrain from having spent too much time under that light.
Different glass will attenuate UV differently. Low iron glass (used in solar panels) will help if you want more UV through.
Thank you B for the heads up
Great video. Thank you for making this.
good video, i had no idea of the dangers of halogens. fluorescent lamps can also be dangerous if you happen to have changed the transformer to a different model.
hello, i have a jc g4 12v max 35w halogen bulb in a desk lamp but the glass cracked and get removed, i cant find info about this bulb and i dont have spectrogram stuff, anyone here can test it?
Thanks for this great video 👍👍
We had one of these in the house I grew up in. It was a floor lamp in the living room. It used to attract moths and instantly incinerate them leading to that lovely cooked moth smell throughout the living room.
Hi, I have seen some halogen bulbs glow blue under UV light (365nm) - I guess those that glow have doped glass with some UV absorbing material...Any even one was slightly glowing blue for few seconds after turning the halogen off.
You're absolutely right and I'm glad not to be the only one to have found this magic trick out if we even call it a magic trick.
No one mentioned it anywhere on the internet as far as I know.
By the way some metal halide bulbs also glow blue under a blacklight as they have a doped quartz outer envelope to block at least some of the UV the arc tube puts out.
My dad had one of these we would use when doing touch up paint. It would be set up behind me while working. I remember after painting having a rather bad sunburn without spending time outside. I remember saying that I think the light did it and he said there was no way. It did have a glass cover but was probably from the 60's so who knows.
Maybe it was way too close to your body and touch up paint took so many hours that the sole UVA rays (Which are the only ones not to be filtered by the glass and also the least likely to cause sunburns given their low-ish energy) actually managed to get you sunburnt.
Or maybe it was a burn caused by the heat alone, who knows ?
First and foremost, Thank you for showing full music credits, I love listening to these on Spotify or the like and when I do I hit the memories of RUclipsrs I've seen them on - something I like to do now and then 😋❤
Furthermore, what a short video! Felt like 30 seconds, it was really interesting - as all your videos of course, I haven't even thought or seen anything about UV on these in Sweden. Never crossed my mind, neither the long tubes or the spotlights and I've used them quite a bit.
Can't wait for next video, always fun to watch! ❤
A healthy bit of UV-A is a must for good a CRI.
Many things not only reflect light of a certain color but also fluoresce. The UV-A gets partially converted to visible light.
Without that you are missing a bit of vibrancy in colors.
No UV-A at all would send even Bob Ross into a rage fit.
Could you recommend a good PORTABLE spectrometer? I would also like to know the brand and model of the one you use.
Those high intensity compact lamps are actually only going to last the advertised 50 hours or so. They seem to be meant for situations where you need to vastly expand the capability of your existing fixtures temporarily.
A volunteer organization I worked with used them to cover a fairly large site where we had shifts running from Friday evening to Monday morning three weekends in a row every year. The fixtures were lent to us by company that typically worked on much smaller construction sites, and these high intensity bulbs allowed us to keep the the central area with all the detail work very well lit and also make the surrounding logistical area safely lit with the relatively few fixtures we had available. Even going through one bulb per fixture every weekend it was much cheaper to use these than source more fixtures.
i love your videos man keep going
It's a shame these bulbs are banned...
I have one on my bed a long tube one around 80 watts, the color is un replaceable
And I was happy to find someone still selling em
I bought 15
yes please do more of those videos :)
Halogens that are unfiltered have damaged my vision. Improperly installed Halogen lamps in automobiles are a dangerous nuisance. Their angle to pedestrians is often dangerous.
What kind of damage did you get ?
Could you give recommendations for light spectrometers that measure around 200-1000 nm? I saw the one you use, the Lastertack LR2 costs over 1,700 euros. Is there anything you can recommend and is more affordable?
Why is there an import ban on halogen bulbs?
In what country?
@@Derpy1969his profile says he’s from denmark
@@Derpy19698:33
I would love to see a video about those bulbs!
I would really like to know what type / brand / model of spectrometer is used - out of curiosity. I know that cheap ones can be made out of an old webcam, and removing the IR filter.
5:33 "that must be what the marking means." welp... that's a problem.
The ban on hallogen is a violation of human rights.
True
Please say no, I cook with halogen and I don’t want to have to toss the ovens.
@@Warp2090It is very ironic that someone with General Electric's photo agrees with that statement
@@Water.897 also true.
Also The ban of the hid bulbs, all of them has being replaced by garbage Chinese LED lights
I know this may be out of the scope of your videos, but i think it'd bring dangers "down to Earth" for people if you tried to find out the "real" consequences of being subjected to said dangers (UV in this case).
For example, perhaps you could do some basic napkin "on average" math, like "If you were to use these most unfiltered halogen lamps, uncovered in your bathroom for the course of 1 year, you'd on average have x number of cells in your body that got split DNA; and overall cancer risks would increase by x%"
Naturally its hard to be exact with hypotheticals like that, but it'd still be interesting to get a "real consequences" example, not just "its dangerous, dont do it".
Because if it's +0.003% increased risk of cancer per year of having uncovered halogens in your house, or +15% increased risk, really matters.
For example, Styropyro does this (extremely quick napkin math, but still effective), by simply saying for example "half a second's exposure to this laser, even its reflected light against a wall, will render permanent retina damage or completely blind you".
That really rings home of the dangers, rather than a more vague "its not good" statement.
Banning incandescent bulbs is so frustrating. Nobody is using them unless they have a really good reason, due to the cost savings of better technology.
6:05 That light is called dichroic. It sises several thin layers of materials that have different indexes of refraction engineered mostly to reflect the visible light to the front and to throw the IR to the back so they don't heat the object being illuminated. But maybe it has an effect on the UV too
Interesting, for ages I had a 500W halogen as a back yard light, it never had a glass cover, nor is there any place to fit one. I got sick of replacing bulbs & the high operating cost, so it's now been replaced with a pair of 10W LED floods, they are way better as I can run them for extended periods without wondering about power bill shock.
Tak for de gode videoer!