I think it just needed to be run. After running all that bad gas with too much oil for 20 seconds at a time, it was loaded up. Take it out for 20 minutes and run it hard. Mix up some fresh gas with a good clean burning synthetic oil, and see if it clears out. That crankcase has sat for who knows how many years with old oil in it. The crank seal is probably fine, but could be seeping from being loaded up. Also, you should be able to tell from the smell if the smoke is from crankcase oil or running too rich (after running it long enough to burn out any residual seepage or assembly oil). Gear oil has a completely different smell from 2 stroke oil.
at the end he shows that the crank bearing has play so that as well as the leaky seals need replacing. the crankcase is not full of oil like a 4 stroke. the oil in the flywheel housing is oil and fuel; there's a serious leak when the engine is running for there to be that much residue.
it definitely could have been the problem, i had the same problem on my 89 kx80 and i ended up changing all the gaskets for practice working on my engine, ended up fixing the problem for me
oh the dilemma. I like to see a new video from you.. so I want to like. But the bike doesn't run and I don't want anyone to think I like that. But you did an engine swap which I like. But that didn't work either which I don't like. But it ran... I like to see running motors. But it ran like garbage which is sad. So I have no idea if I should like the video or not. frick it... *Slams Like Button
You don't have to split the engine cases to change a right-side crank seal! if you take off the right side cover, the clutch basket and primary drive gear, you can sometimes drill and thread a wood screw into the seal and pull it out with a slide-hammer. Changed one on my Cr250, no problem.
Ryan Moore I live for slick little tricks like that. My buddy bought some nylon shifter bushings, and the kit came with installation instructions. It said to basically halfway drop the transmission so that you could remove the part which contains the bushing and press it out. That seemed like a big pain in the ass, so I got underneath it and looked. I ended up taking my pocket knife and sawing the shoulder off of the stock rubber bushing on one side, at which point I could just poke it out with my finger. The new nylon bushings were two piece, so they slipped in from opposite sides no problem. Turned an afternoon project into a 20 minute project.
Nevir202 I'm a auto mechanic, and back in the 90's gm had the iron duke, a 2.5 four cylinder pushrod overhead valve engine that gm used in EVERYTHING. Instead of using a timing chain, it used a fibre timing gear that was pressed onto the camshaft. The recommended repair procedure was to remove the engine, remove the balancer and front timing cover, remove the valve cover and loosen the rocker arms, remove the lifter side cover and remove the pushrods and lifters, then remove the cam and remove and replace the cam gear using a arbor press. The whole job was listed at 19 hours flat rate. Me and my buddy in the private shop we worked at devised a easier way. Jack the passenger side of the car up, remove tire and inner fender liner. Remove the passenger side cradle bolts and lower engine and subframe to gain access to timing cover. Remove belts, balancer and timing cover. The center hub of the gear is aluminum, using a drill, drill small holes thru fibre sprocket and aluminum hub as close to cam as possible. Using chisel or air hammer, crack hub apart from cam and remove. Center of cam is hollow, take a fine thread tap and cut threads into inner shaft of cam as far as possible. Using long bolt that fits threaded hole and thick washer, coat new gear hub with oil and press onto cam using bolt. Install new cover gasket and seal onto timing cover and install it, reinstall balancer and belts, put subframe back up, replace inner fender and tire, and done. Total time? About four hours, give or take.
All these are reasons why you used to hang onto a private mechanic before they started making everything to where you had to go straight to dealer for everything, then pay more for parts, labor, time, etc.
There are times when you might seem like an amateur mechanic but you always seem like a professional You tuber and your wife is the best camera girl ever.
Cody Jv yep, I'm betting the expansion chamber and muffler are full of oil. He needs to wash them out as well as possible, then take it for a long hard run to blow and burn the remaining oil out. Of course, after he changes the seals. I have a Suzuki rm250 a customer brought into my shop, his "bike expert" rebuilt the top end 6 times this summer, it would not idle, and would stay revved high for a long time after the throttle was blipped. He was told by the "expert" this was normal. I knew what was wrong as soon as he told me what it was doing. After I split the cases, I found the flywheel side crank seal was installed crooked, and the "expert" goobered it with silicone sealant in an attempt to fix his mistake. This caused a vacuum leak, which made the engine run lean, causing piston damage. Its getting new piston and rings, new crank bearings and seals, and top and bottom gaskets. About $250 for parts. I'm doing a video about it next month, showing the damage and the correct way to rebuild it.
you said oil leaking out of engine. crank seals and the gaskets. 2 strokes age. they are a love hate but easier then newer 4 strokes that make lots of power.
No matter what it shouldn't leak through the other side. Crankcase pressure will always force excess build up out of the engine unless there's a leak as in this case.
Kade Stratton I know with my bike (RM125) even at the track it smokes pretty good even with it warmed up and I’m running a carburetor jetted and tuned as perfect as I could tune it and my mechanic and the Suzuki dealership and it still smokes but I run a 32:1 mixture but it’s a two stroke so it’s going to smoke no matter what
Well, the oil won't hurt anything so no extra damage, the bright side :-D. And the compression is great so it should go like a rocket. Not wasted time, just usefull research and diagnostics lol :-D
Jusb1066 True, but I use more than 2% oil, and its kinda a mess xd The engine can't burn it all so it ends in the exhaust, I took it off and empty it, turned it around and it came out xd
Woke this morning had the notification of the new up load and made my day, kept in the bank till after work and must say well worth the wait. Love this channel.
Before going to all that trouble i'd mix up a batch of 40:1 Seems allot of folks run those bikes at that ratio just fine. All my cr500s needed to warm up for a minute or two before they really ran good on the top end.
The first thing I thought was the 2 stroke mix ratio is way off, an too rich, older bikes use to run 32:1 with a few others at 40:1. Nowadays its 60-80:1 or even thinner. I like having a slight puff of smoke at intial tip in, then some what clear out afterward. I think its safer to be a little rich opposed to a little lean. I believe the engine lasts longer too. Less down time, more ride time. Just saying.
The real mystery is how you keep your sparkling white t-shirt sparkling white after removing 2 engines, swapping out pistons, and reinstalling 2 engines.
Your running rich, mix at 40:1. Your trying to make something big out of something small, ride the damn thing and quit worrying about a tach that you wont use when riding
"recommended" is the key word my finger pointing friend. If you run it lean on the oil you get a cleaner burn with more power, 40:1 will not harm the bike with a quality pre-mix oil
A recommendation is just that, a recommendation, its not law or tuned for performance. You actually CAN leave oil in your car for twice the mileage and your car will not blow up.
When bikes sit for long periods of time with the fuel valve on, fuel leaks into crankcase. The pressure from piston coming down will force this fuel out seal. The seal is easily bypassed in this direction. This "puddle of fuel will also make the volume of the crankcase smaller and make the engine run like crap. It takes a couple wot runs to clear out.
Did anyone tell him that two stokes don’t run that great until warmed up all the way? I have to ride my kdx around and get the engine nice and hot before it will even think about going high in rpms
And yes I know that isn’t gonna fix anything with your engine but hey once you get this thin running right you’ll atleats know to warm it up before judging how it’s running! lmao
Great vid, personally i find it easier to remove the top end and the clutch, flywheel, primary drive gear while the motor is still in the bike. saves it wobbling all over the place on the bench. Also if you cant see the cross hatching in the bore, then the plating is worn out.
Dear Jakob, changing the crankshaft seals isn't a big thing on those kind of engines. Look for it on RUclips, i've done is on a fiew yzs'. Just by using a narrow woodscrew (spax) a screwdriver and a tong. The engine can stay in the frame, just dismount left an right engine parts to get to the basic case. Even the transmissionoil " could" stay in it. Just lay the bike flat on the foor. For youre own comfort, get your an impact wrench to loosen the clutch mainnut and flyweelnut. To get off the flyheel pull up the bike in your Garage to make it moving "free", then slightly tap the flywheelside of the crankshaft with a copperhammer. Greetings from germany.
A good chance the cylinder needs it's Nikasil plating redone. It cost money or a metal sleeve can be pressed in after it's bored but the best it to just have the plating redone. If it's just a budget bike to have fun on and not going to win any metals then it won't matter.
Jake Dweeb do you even know how a powerband works all it is are 2 little pistons that move out of the exhaust to let it flow better and work with the revs of the bike
When you tear into the engine it would be a good idea to service the power valves. That gen of KDX is infamous for stripping the teeth off the aluminum subvalves which will make it run like junk on the top end. Can't buy new ones anymore but a guy in the UK makes steel ones that should last forever. Unfortunately they cost more than you paid for the bike!
Great troubleshooting on the crankshaft seals !!! Does this model have oil injection ? I had a snowmobile that acted the same way, and it drank a lot of 2-cycle oil. The oil injection pump had a bad shaft seal and was pulling extra un-metered oil straight into the crankcase.
Your seal that is bad on the flywheel side would cause you to run LEAN, You may have fuel spitting out of your flywheel side from having the crankcase flooded. And if your crankcase is flooded with fuel, it will run RICH for a long time until you burn that old fuel and oil out!
I parked my cr125 about 10 yrs ago. I filled my back yard with smoke and that thing was reving super high at idle. I cleaned the carb but decided to get a rebuild kit. My carb keeps spilling gas out of the bottom hose could that extra fuel be the cause of the smoke.
I used to have a 1969 Kawasaki 500 Mach III H1 (3 cylinder). I put a '71 front end on it (orginal front end was straight up and down, the 71 had more rake and disc brake.) We would take it to the local drag strip on weekends. I built it but my friend would drive it on the track. It had a habit of burning the piston furthest from the oil pump, so I bored out the oil port and put a bigger line to it, and cranked the oil pump wide open. It fouled spark plugs real fast so I put flat cap plugs in it, back then the only place you could find them was at the airport, sold to use in airplanes. It was street legal and I made final adjustments on the side of the road riding it to the track. It smoked so bad I called it my Smog Device, but it brought home the First Place Overall trophy many times, doing the 1/4 mile in the high 12's. Which is slow nowdays, but was pretty darned fast in the early 70's.
i've had same problem.. i took all the transmission oils out, then half a bottle of cocacola it cleans seals etc, then you take cocacola out when you had it laying there about 2h andddd then you put transmission oil back in the chamber and it runs beautifully (edit) You don't have to split the engine cases to change a right-side crank seal! if you take off the right side cover, the clutch basket and primary drive gear, you can sometimes drill and thread a wood screw into the seal and pull it out with a slide-hammer.
Take a mini drillbit and drill into each seal then take a 3 1/2 inch wood screw and make sure you do this twice On each seal across from each other run the wood screws in quarter-inch eighth of an inch into the seal take two pair of pliers and pull the seal out it's a simple as that you do not need to rip your whole engine down I've done many crank seals I'm talking ALOT
You thought you where going to get a quick fix . It just didn't turn out . You win some you loose some . Maybe the lovely piston blinded your thoughts . Looking forward to the next instalment .
wtf are you doing man atleast give it 10 minits of warm up and reving to clear the oil out. it takes alot of time man... run a hotter spark plug too. mine sounds like this on warm up. totally normal
Your lucky it didn't have a runaway with a leak on the dry side, you should be able to tear it down and put it back together in a day.... if you have the seals
It looks like to me you'll get it running as smooth as silk in no time besides no one's a professional when they're in they're garage working on old bike and learning new stuff
If you are going to reseal it and break the cases might as well put a bigger kit on it and make more power at the same time and make it worth your while. But that is just me.
Id take of the exhaust and plug of the port. However id like to point out something that is worth considering. 1 factory stock settings are not correct settings. They are a safe start point. You need jet the carburator after bike and weather and temprature. 2 in your previous video you said you mixed gas and oil at 25:1 however kawasaki recomends 32:1 BUT newer oils are better. The oil producer for my oil recomends 50:1 to 60:1 mixing. So follow the oil producers recomendations. 3 most importantly you must let tge engine warm up completly before you diagnose!
and should be able to pop them seals out with pick tool and put back in. i have on other bikes but havent torn down one of those. kawa does weird things lol.
I think half of your battle is the gas you are using i really suggest getting some 91 non ethanol and mixing your gas 40:1 or maybe even 50:1 i don't think it's shot you can definitely tell it's getting way to much oil try that out and change your plug out and i think it will run smoother my 01 KX250 just had a complete rebuild and it smokes as well my i'm running 30:1 and it isn't jetted my for cold climate AND LET IT WARM UP
I have a 1990 Kx250, it smokes like a forest fire till it warms up. Stock 2-stroke mix ratio I believe is 32:1, for a while I was running 40:1, but i thought that was a little lean, so I split the difference now & run 36:1, I also run a race plug NGK B9EGV. The hotter it runs the better it runs. Anyway keep up the Great Videos.
i'm a professional and qualified automotive mechanic--i have always had motorcycles, but only recently obtained a 1990 rm 250---it dows EXACTLY this but still has incredible power-- youve saved me alot of time trouble shooting,--my case may be worst case,but at least i know where to start before i get to those pesky transmission oil seals--thanks folks. :)
I had to show the beginning of this video to my girlfriend because your wife used the same phrase she uses that I hate to hear from her... "I'm HELPING"...Her helping tends to slow me down. BTW, Give your wife a wrench every time she demands you fix something. Thinking up stuff for YOU to do isn't HELPING.. On second thought,,, a wrench in her hand may cause you even more work in the end. But it may also make her think twice if she has to get her hands dirty... Unless she hits you with it..
Hi guys u 2 are funny. I have an 89 kdx 200. Had it for 16 years now and been through all this. For the most part it's loaded up and needs a good ride. However crank seals piston and rings need to be in good shape before turning the carb. I take its pre mix ? 40:1 with good 2 stroke oil. Mine is oil injected. Are u at altitude? This affected my bike. Your carb has a piolet jet low down to quarter throttle a needle in the slide , quarter to three quarter throttle and main jet full throttle. All of these can be adjusted. The needle has a c clip which can be lowered or raised. Lowering the needle will lean mixture. The jets have numbers on them . For example 165 main jet. Going to 160 will lean the mixture. Your bike shop should have these jets only move one number at a time. Your spark plug should be a chocolate brown after hard riding. Fix engine first. Wash pipe out and clean baffle out. Clean power valves in barrel.
Hey everyone. I have a 1990 KDX 200 which i purchased for $400. The bike starts up first kick and idles well. When riding the bike has a stutter which cannot be cured with jetting. Changing the jetting just changes the throttle position in which the stutter begins. If I lower the needle the stutter occurs low-mid throttle, If I raise it the stutter happens at higher throttle. Moving up in main jet size make the stutter somewhat more pronounced. Lowering the main creates detonation at mid throttle, especially when engine braking or rolling off the throttle, while the stutter remains. Also, I have an issue with gearbox oil overflowing into the airbox after a 10 min or longer ride. I filled it up where the oil reaches halfway past the sight glass after warmed up. I have already replaced broken power valves as one was stripped. This did very little to change the stuttering condition. By stutter, I mean that I cannot cruise a constant speed without the bike slightly jerking up and down in power. Any ideas what is wrong with this bike?
Don't sweat it,it happens to the best, I had a 83 or 84(can't remember) Cr 250 I bought locked up. It had been setting for about 10yrs . Rebuilt it and got running but it was running erratic and lean. Beat myself to death before I figured out the crank seal behind the magneto had just decided to pop out.lol.
Ah yes ! The joy of two strokes . Crank , mains , seals and a top end rebuild with new piston and the cylinder recoated . Then you'll be started ,lol. You have the perfect wife brother . She's really interested in how these things work . You may make sure you do it right!! That's the makings of a really good bike .P.s , It's rattling like feck!! You have it apart and cranks aren't expensive for these , lol ,!!
Odds on if the engine has been sitting unused for some time the seals would have gone hard, guessing fork seals will start leaking real soon also. My favourite dirt bike I ever owned the KDX 200, first bike I owned was a KDX 175 back in the late seventies, had 3 200, 2 air cooled and a late 90's water cooled, great bikes
Hey bro I have a problem with my Sazuki DRZ 125. It won’t start and if we do get it to start it will either shut off or bogg too much. We replace the carburetor and cleaned the air filter and changed the oil, but it still won’t work. Any clue on what’s wrong with it?
Keep up the good work very inspiring videos. Always look forward to your antics and positive attitude even when most people wives would have demanded you give up and take a shower, JK! Reminds me of when I was single and had time to tinker. Best subscription on RUclips for sure, Can't wait to see the next video.
Holy crap. If I took my bottom end off my kdx it’s probably getting split and gone through. Replacing it with another 30 year old bottom end is a lot of work for nothing lmao. Good luck with the bike bud!
i have been watching your show love your comedy you and your wife doo seeing her rid that scoter that made me happy to see I just got on last Sunday $1500 bike i talked him down to $650 for 2005 klx 300r indo it runs good motor new just bel replaced no brakes i need to hook up rear master brakes lights it needs brakes seat body panels the bikes you work on look much better than mine
Also I went back and viewed the c90 Honda trail video. I bought a 64 c90 trail and I'm having a heck of a time with the electrical I can't keep the battery charged I'm thinking it could be the rectifier. Any ideas on this? I wish I could drop it off at your house ha ha.
Well just a little heads up, from the factory, these bikes are jetted extremely rich from factory so they smoke a lot regardless, its something weird with these 200's, so id bet if you change the jetting on it, run 40:1 premix and warm up the bike it would probably not smoke nearly as bad, especially after you ride it around for a few minutes
Where r U getting these cheap bikes I really would like to get one for my son's ,I'm a disabled pensioner and I have three boys ,my right index finger got cut off that's y I'm a pensioner, is there any chance I could but a cheap bikevi could do up for my son's,
Hey just wondering if anyone can help me out a bit, im currently trying to fix up my dads 1984 xr500. The last time i had it running was about 9 months ago, it had been sitting since then, i tried to start it and there is very low compression, would you be able to tell me what it may be? Thanks
I'm not trying to be a smart alec here and this video is years old so I'm sure you've fixed this looong ago. But I wonder how the fuel oil mixture is? I'm sure he's not gotten it wrong but I'd start at the source. Man Jennie (I assume that's your wife's name) is just awesome! You guys are a great team and make for fun watching. You are blessed sir!
Nope. I learned nothing from your mistakes. I just finished a clutch/flywheel replacement on a car. Looked at the crank main seal and thought bahhhhh...it looks fine. But guess what? There's an oil leak. I now have to pull out the engine remove clutch and flywheel and replace the seal I should have replaced as a matter of course when it was staring me right in the face.
You know she and HE of course will say it's in fun.But she keeps on with the guy about getting stuff done for her in a short amount of time but continuously tried making him feel that she was smarter or belittle the guy. Why is it that men are made to feel dumb anymore. Whether on TV or by your wife. No way I could deal with living with this lady for the rest of my life. They have to live in Oregon or Cali or Seattle that's how they act in those areas! poor guy the rest of your life with her lol darn!
Thank you so much for this video because I notesed when I change my oil on my 2001 Suzuki rm 125 less oil came out then I put in but I didnt know if this was normal and I don't have the $300 for a professional to look at so you saved me money thank you
My first bike was a yz125. Ran like poo, decided to try and fix it. New top end and crank seals. It was like 2 in the morning when I got it put back together and just had to fire it up. Damn throttle cable was routed wrong and first start after the rebuild it starts red lining. Man I felt like an idiot.
I need to get good at splittin cases, a lotta good old bikes around with this problem keeping them from being ridden and enjoyed for a pretty cheap price. New crank seals and top end would fix em. Even a crank not that bad if you can do the work yourself. Dig these vids, thanks
Dude just dial your mixing ratio back a little bit and see if that helps. Also, with aftermarket pipes, if you're running stock jetting, you're not properly jetted.
I come to learn more about motorcycle engines, I stay for your wife's ball breaking. She's a gem! Great work you two.
Eric Cherry
K
Eric C. K
Lmaooooo!
@Grant Nicholas Nice bot promoting a scam
@Marvin Elias Nice bot promoting a scam
It's still worth saving. Keep going. !
Your wife is a scream! Duct tape and zip ties are a must for a professional repair job...
Browns Nation Duct tape and wire ties work for wives as well.
yeah that how i got my wife into our freezer
I'm still laughing over the project unfolding / wallet unfolding comment a few vids ago.
I wonder if she has a cute sister with the same sense of humor. 🤔
I think it just needed to be run. After running all that bad gas with too much oil for 20 seconds at a time, it was loaded up. Take it out for 20 minutes and run it hard. Mix up some fresh gas with a good clean burning synthetic oil, and see if it clears out. That crankcase has sat for who knows how many years with old oil in it. The crank seal is probably fine, but could be seeping from being loaded up. Also, you should be able to tell from the smell if the smoke is from crankcase oil or running too rich (after running it long enough to burn out any residual seepage or assembly oil). Gear oil has a completely different smell from 2 stroke oil.
at the end he shows that the crank bearing has play so that as well as the leaky seals need replacing. the crankcase is not full of oil like a 4 stroke. the oil in the flywheel housing is oil and fuel; there's a serious leak when the engine is running for there to be that much residue.
it definitely could have been the problem, i had the same problem on my 89 kx80 and i ended up changing all the gaskets for practice working on my engine, ended up fixing the problem for me
oh the dilemma.
I like to see a new video from you.. so I want to like.
But the bike doesn't run and I don't want anyone to think I like that.
But you did an engine swap which I like.
But that didn't work either which I don't like.
But it ran... I like to see running motors.
But it ran like garbage which is sad.
So I have no idea if I should like the video or not.
frick it...
*Slams Like Button
VHFGamer frick!!
VHFGamer Keeping it family friendly, good on you for using the word frick instead of you know what.
You don't have to split the engine cases to change a right-side crank seal!
if you take off the right side cover, the clutch basket and primary drive gear, you can sometimes drill and thread a wood screw into the seal and pull it out with a slide-hammer. Changed one on my Cr250, no problem.
Ryan Moore I live for slick little tricks like that.
My buddy bought some nylon shifter bushings, and the kit came with installation instructions. It said to basically halfway drop the transmission so that you could remove the part which contains the bushing and press it out. That seemed like a big pain in the ass, so I got underneath it and looked. I ended up taking my pocket knife and sawing the shoulder off of the stock rubber bushing on one side, at which point I could just poke it out with my finger. The new nylon bushings were two piece, so they slipped in from opposite sides no problem.
Turned an afternoon project into a 20 minute project.
Yep, same procedure on my rm250.
Nevir202 I'm a auto mechanic, and back in the 90's gm had the iron duke, a 2.5 four cylinder pushrod overhead valve engine that gm used in EVERYTHING. Instead of using a timing chain, it used a fibre timing gear that was pressed onto the camshaft. The recommended repair procedure was to remove the engine, remove the balancer and front timing cover, remove the valve cover and loosen the rocker arms, remove the lifter side cover and remove the pushrods and lifters, then remove the cam and remove and replace the cam gear using a arbor press. The whole job was listed at 19 hours flat rate. Me and my buddy in the private shop we worked at devised a easier way. Jack the passenger side of the car up, remove tire and inner fender liner. Remove the passenger side cradle bolts and lower engine and subframe to gain access to timing cover. Remove belts, balancer and timing cover. The center hub of the gear is aluminum, using a drill, drill small holes thru fibre sprocket and aluminum hub as close to cam as possible. Using chisel or air hammer, crack hub apart from cam and remove. Center of cam is hollow, take a fine thread tap and cut threads into inner shaft of cam as far as possible. Using long bolt that fits threaded hole and thick washer, coat new gear hub with oil and press onto cam using bolt. Install new cover gasket and seal onto timing cover and install it, reinstall balancer and belts, put subframe back up, replace inner fender and tire, and done. Total time? About four hours, give or take.
dave1135 Most excellent!
All these are reasons why you used to hang onto a private mechanic before they started making everything to where you had to go straight to dealer for everything, then pay more for parts, labor, time, etc.
Put the inverted forks of the parts bike onto the other one
There are times when you might seem like an amateur mechanic but you always seem like a professional You tuber and your wife is the best camera girl ever.
Start a Patreon acct, for a clean T-Shirt.
Happens to everybody. Only everybody don't make great video's.
run it without the silencer on the expansion chamber. heck your expansion chamber might have alot of oil and need to be cleaned too
Cody Jv yep, I'm betting the expansion chamber and muffler are full of oil. He needs to wash them out as well as possible, then take it for a long hard run to blow and burn the remaining oil out. Of course, after he changes the seals. I have a Suzuki rm250 a customer brought into my shop, his "bike expert" rebuilt the top end 6 times this summer, it would not idle, and would stay revved high for a long time after the throttle was blipped. He was told by the "expert" this was normal. I knew what was wrong as soon as he told me what it was doing. After I split the cases, I found the flywheel side crank seal was installed crooked, and the "expert" goobered it with silicone sealant in an attempt to fix his mistake. This caused a vacuum leak, which made the engine run lean, causing piston damage. Its getting new piston and rings, new crank bearings and seals, and top and bottom gaskets. About $250 for parts. I'm doing a video about it next month, showing the damage and the correct way to rebuild it.
It seems to be fine you just need to hold it flat and clear it out and warm it up every 2 stroke runs like that at the start till it’s warmed up
seals. bad.
you said oil leaking out of engine. crank seals and the gaskets. 2 strokes age. they are a love hate but easier then newer 4 strokes that make lots of power.
No matter what it shouldn't leak through the other side. Crankcase pressure will always force excess build up out of the engine unless there's a leak as in this case.
There should never be gas in the stator cover, the crankseals are bad and you can damage the engine riding it with bad seals.
Kade Stratton I know with my bike (RM125) even at the track it smokes pretty good even with it warmed up and I’m running a carburetor jetted and tuned as perfect as I could tune it and my mechanic and the Suzuki dealership and it still smokes but I run a 32:1 mixture but it’s a two stroke so it’s going to smoke no matter what
Well, the oil won't hurt anything so no extra damage, the bright side :-D.
And the compression is great so it should go like a rocket.
Not wasted time, just usefull research and diagnostics lol :-D
Doesnt really damage the bike as you say, but the exhaust will be full of oil
It's a two stroke, the exhaust is used to oil LOL :-D
zx8401ztv Yeah, but it will be more oil than normal though
a little oil will stop it rusting, it will clear when its had a good run
Jusb1066 True, but I use more than 2% oil, and its kinda a mess xd The engine can't burn it all so it ends in the exhaust, I took it off and empty it, turned it around and it came out xd
Woke this morning had the notification of the new up load and made my day, kept in the bank till after work and must say well worth the wait. Love this channel.
Cr'Lar Lee nice profile pic lol
Henry Freund thanks pal same to you nice bike . 👍
Cr'Lar Lee oh no?! It’s you my god
Before going to all that trouble i'd mix up a batch of 40:1 Seems allot of folks run those bikes at that ratio just fine. All my cr500s needed to warm up for a minute or two before they really ran good on the top end.
The first thing I thought was the 2 stroke mix ratio is way off, an too rich, older bikes use to run 32:1 with a few others at 40:1. Nowadays its 60-80:1 or even thinner. I like having a slight puff of smoke at intial tip in, then some what clear out afterward. I think its safer to be a little rich opposed to a little lean. I believe the engine lasts longer too. Less down time, more ride time. Just saying.
Considering his phenomenal luck with that “ruined” generator he got for a song, I think this is just balancing out the equation a bit.
The real mystery is how you keep your sparkling white t-shirt sparkling white after removing 2 engines, swapping out pistons, and reinstalling 2 engines.
mdwdirect it's a fine art that takes much effort and skill
Oxyclean
i was eyeing the same quandary ...lol Only two drips on it..
They deserve more attention. This is by far my favourite RUclips channel in existence. You need to make 30m long videos!
MrTechKid total agree mate 👍👍👍👍
MrTechKid *Favorite
I love your back and forth banter! It would be cool to swap the triple clamps and upside-down forks from the parts bike too! And the bars!
It's a 2-stroke, just gotta let her warm up!
Look at the other video, warming it up is not the issue. Thing was spitting more smoke than a fog machine.
More talking bikes please. :D
Your running rich, mix at 40:1. Your trying to make something big out of something small, ride the damn thing and quit worrying about a tach that you wont use when riding
"recommended" is the key word my finger pointing friend. If you run it lean on the oil you get a cleaner burn with more power, 40:1 will not harm the bike with a quality pre-mix oil
A recommendation is just that, a recommendation, its not law or tuned for performance. You actually CAN leave oil in your car for twice the mileage and your car will not blow up.
Its a 2 stroke engine, you WILL rebuild it no matter how careful you maintain it @ 32:1 or 40:1 so why not have the performance advantage?
You have a way to make the most mundane things seem so interesting. You would make a great teacher.
When bikes sit for long periods of time with the fuel valve on, fuel leaks into crankcase. The pressure from piston coming down will force this fuel out seal. The seal is easily bypassed in this direction. This "puddle of fuel will also make the volume of the crankcase smaller and make the engine run like crap. It takes a couple wot runs to clear out.
So......................... when is the next update on the shasta build ...?
Did anyone tell him that two stokes don’t run that great until warmed up all the way? I have to ride my kdx around and get the engine nice and hot before it will even think about going high in rpms
And yes I know that isn’t gonna fix anything with your engine but hey once you get this thin running right you’ll atleats know to warm it up before judging how it’s running! lmao
you dont need to split the case to change the crank seals on a lot of motors....
Great vid, personally i find it easier to remove the top end and the clutch, flywheel, primary drive gear while the motor is still in the bike. saves it wobbling all over the place on the bench. Also if you cant see the cross hatching in the bore, then the plating is worn out.
Hey what's up bro, keep up the good job
Your wife is a sweet heart good for you dude.
Dear Jakob, changing the crankshaft seals isn't a big thing on those kind of engines. Look for it on RUclips, i've done is on a fiew yzs'. Just by using a narrow woodscrew (spax) a screwdriver and a tong. The engine can stay in the frame, just dismount left an right engine parts to get to the basic case. Even the transmissionoil " could" stay in it. Just lay the bike flat on the foor. For youre own comfort, get your an impact wrench to loosen the clutch mainnut and flyweelnut. To get off the flyheel pull up the bike in your Garage to make it moving "free", then slightly tap the flywheelside of the crankshaft with a copperhammer. Greetings from germany.
I love how you test the bike in a closed workspace instead of taking it outside!! haha
a 2 stroke has got too warm up before you can say its running right
A good chance the cylinder needs it's Nikasil plating redone. It cost money or a metal sleeve can be pressed in after it's bored but the best it to just have the plating redone. If it's just a budget bike to have fun on and not going to win any metals then it won't matter.
I was wondering why you did not check for crank bearing play on both motors. Then i got to the end of the video. :)
You need to let a 2 stroke really warm up before revving it up
Jake Dweeb - wont it foul the plug if you don't?
yeah exactly and wont be burning the premix properly
also ur powerband will not work when the bikes too cold
Jake Dweeb - ah i see
Jake Dweeb do you even know how a powerband works all it is are 2 little pistons that move out of the exhaust to let it flow better and work with the revs of the bike
Supposed to run like that if it's just started up and idling. Needs to be ridden to really know if it's rich or lean.
When you tear into the engine it would be a good idea to service the power valves. That gen of KDX is infamous for stripping the teeth off the aluminum subvalves which will make it run like junk on the top end. Can't buy new ones anymore but a guy in the UK makes steel ones that should last forever. Unfortunately they cost more than you paid for the bike!
Give it a good blast down the road.
No shame in failure bro, failure is the first step to success!
At least we got a few laughs out of an entertaining video!
this was made 3 years ago, it's still super fun to watch the videos.. :D
Great troubleshooting on the crankshaft seals !!! Does this model have oil injection ? I had a snowmobile that acted the same way, and it drank a lot of 2-cycle oil. The oil injection pump had a bad shaft seal and was pulling extra un-metered oil straight into the crankcase.
Your seal that is bad on the flywheel side would cause you to run LEAN, You may have fuel spitting out of your flywheel side from having the crankcase flooded. And if your crankcase is flooded with fuel, it will run RICH for a long time until you burn that old fuel and oil out!
I parked my cr125 about 10 yrs ago. I filled my back yard with smoke and that thing was reving super high at idle. I cleaned the carb but decided to get a rebuild kit. My carb keeps spilling gas out of the bottom hose could that extra fuel be the cause of the smoke.
Don't you hate when those rubber seals wear out. They are so hard to get at!
and thats why i dont like kawasaki lol there crank seal design is shit.spliting the case for new seals is pure shit
The only bad experiences are the one's we don't learn from... LOVE the vids and running commentary!
I used to have a 1969 Kawasaki 500 Mach III H1 (3 cylinder). I put a '71 front end on it (orginal front end was straight up and down, the 71 had more rake and disc brake.) We would take it to the local drag strip on weekends. I built it but my friend would drive it on the track. It had a habit of burning the piston furthest from the oil pump, so I bored out the oil port and put a bigger line to it, and cranked the oil pump wide open. It fouled spark plugs real fast so I put flat cap plugs in it, back then the only place you could find them was at the airport, sold to use in airplanes. It was street legal and I made final adjustments on the side of the road riding it to the track. It smoked so bad I called it my Smog Device, but it brought home the First Place Overall trophy many times, doing the 1/4 mile in the high 12's. Which is slow nowdays, but was pretty darned fast in the early 70's.
Love your videos and I have never clicked so fast in my life!
and I have also had MANY 2 stroke dirtbikes that the exhaust had so much old oil packed into it that it would smoke like a maniac for 10 minutes!
wait for it to warmup .. about 2-3 min that is a two-stoke :). It wont rev good it it doesnt warm up properly
well with fuel in the ignition cover it means the crank seal is crap, its just going to run worse as it warms up.
KD Customs you right. Didnt watch full video before comenting.
How come you slowed down on putting out videos? I really enjoy them. How about the trailer ?
i've had same problem.. i took all the transmission oils out, then half a bottle of cocacola it cleans seals etc, then you take cocacola out when you had it laying there about 2h andddd then you put transmission oil back in the chamber and it runs beautifully (edit) You don't have to split the engine cases to change a right-side crank seal!
if you take off the right side cover, the clutch basket and primary drive gear, you can sometimes drill and thread a wood screw into the seal and pull it out with a slide-hammer.
Take a mini drillbit and drill into each seal then take a 3 1/2 inch wood screw and make sure you do this twice On each seal across from each other run the wood screws in quarter-inch eighth of an inch into the seal take two pair of pliers and pull the seal out it's a simple as that you do not need to rip your whole engine down I've done many crank seals I'm talking ALOT
Man ol man!!! That sucks... But good tg ings come to those who are patiant and steadfast.
Can't wait to see it purr.
You thought you where going to get a quick fix . It just didn't turn out . You win some you loose some . Maybe the lovely piston blinded your thoughts . Looking forward to the next instalment .
Hey, at least, now you know. Nice job on the engine swap anyway. I appreciate your sharing what you know here.
You should contact PBS because you are the Bob Ross of dirt bike repair. 6:38-6:55
ha ha thanks
Oil seal not hard to change. Make sure you install the seal facing the right way too. I've seen people install them backwards thus making it worse
wtf are you doing man atleast give it 10 minits of warm up and reving to clear the oil out. it takes alot of time man... run a hotter spark plug too. mine sounds like this on warm up. totally normal
Your lucky it didn't have a runaway with a leak on the dry side, you should be able to tear it down and put it back together in a day.... if you have the seals
It looks like to me you'll get it running as smooth as silk in no time besides no one's a professional when they're in they're garage working on old bike and learning new stuff
Its much better to run Real rich than it is to run really lean! just bring some spark plugs lol
If you are going to reseal it and break the cases might as well put a bigger kit on it and make more power at the same time and make it worth your while. But that is just me.
I love watching your videos.... can't wait to hear that bike purring :)
Id take of the exhaust and plug of the port. However id like to point out something that is worth considering. 1 factory stock settings are not correct settings. They are a safe start point. You need jet the carburator after bike and weather and temprature. 2 in your previous video you said you mixed gas and oil at 25:1 however kawasaki recomends 32:1 BUT newer oils are better. The oil producer for my oil recomends 50:1 to 60:1 mixing. So follow the oil producers recomendations. 3 most importantly you must let tge engine warm up completly before you diagnose!
and should be able to pop them seals out with pick tool and put back in. i have on other bikes but havent torn down one of those. kawa does weird things lol.
His name is jacob I thought is was Jennie's lol smile😁😂🤣
Looks like you are going back to the parts shop.
I think half of your battle is the gas you are using i really suggest getting some 91 non ethanol and mixing your gas 40:1 or maybe even 50:1 i don't think it's shot you can definitely tell it's getting way to much oil try that out and change your plug out and i think it will run smoother my 01 KX250 just had a complete rebuild and it smokes as well my i'm running 30:1 and it isn't jetted my for cold climate AND LET IT WARM UP
I have a 1990 Kx250, it smokes like a forest fire till it warms up. Stock 2-stroke mix ratio I believe is 32:1, for a while I was running 40:1, but i thought that was a little lean, so I split the difference now & run 36:1, I also run a race plug NGK B9EGV. The hotter it runs the better it runs. Anyway keep up the Great Videos.
Someone explain to him that a 2 stroke always smokes on a cold start you just need to wait for engine to warm up
Not that much
i'm a professional and qualified automotive mechanic--i have always had motorcycles, but only recently obtained a 1990 rm 250---it dows EXACTLY this but still has incredible power-- youve saved me alot of time trouble shooting,--my case may be worst case,but at least i know where to start before i get to those pesky transmission oil seals--thanks folks. :)
I had to show the beginning of this video to my girlfriend because your wife used the same phrase she uses that I hate to hear from her... "I'm HELPING"...Her helping tends to slow me down. BTW, Give your wife a wrench every time she demands you fix something. Thinking up stuff for YOU to do isn't HELPING.. On second thought,,, a wrench in her hand may cause you even more work in the end. But it may also make her think twice if she has to get her hands dirty... Unless she hits you with it..
Hi guys u 2 are funny. I have an 89 kdx 200. Had it for 16 years now and been through all this. For the most part it's loaded up and needs a good ride. However crank seals piston and rings need to be in good shape before turning the carb. I take its pre mix ? 40:1 with good 2 stroke oil. Mine is oil injected. Are u at altitude? This affected my bike. Your carb has a piolet jet low down to quarter throttle a needle in the slide , quarter to three quarter throttle and main jet full throttle. All of these can be adjusted. The needle has a c clip which can be lowered or raised. Lowering the needle will lean mixture. The jets have numbers on them . For example 165 main jet. Going to 160 will lean the mixture. Your bike shop should have these jets only move one number at a time. Your spark plug should be a chocolate brown after hard riding. Fix engine first. Wash pipe out and clean baffle out. Clean power valves in barrel.
Hey everyone. I have a 1990 KDX 200 which i purchased for $400. The bike starts up first kick and idles well. When riding the bike has a stutter which cannot be cured with jetting. Changing the jetting just changes the throttle position in which the stutter begins. If I lower the needle the stutter occurs low-mid throttle, If I raise it the stutter happens at higher throttle. Moving up in main jet size make the stutter somewhat more pronounced. Lowering the main creates detonation at mid throttle, especially when engine braking or rolling off the throttle, while the stutter remains. Also, I have an issue with gearbox oil overflowing into the airbox after a 10 min or longer ride. I filled it up where the oil reaches halfway past the sight glass after warmed up. I have already replaced broken power valves as one was stripped. This did very little to change the stuttering condition. By stutter, I mean that I cannot cruise a constant speed without the bike slightly jerking up and down in power. Any ideas what is wrong with this bike?
Don't sweat it,it happens to the best, I had a 83 or 84(can't remember) Cr 250 I bought locked up. It had been setting for about 10yrs . Rebuilt it and got running but it was running erratic and lean. Beat myself to death before I figured out the crank seal behind the magneto had just decided to pop out.lol.
Ah yes ! The joy of two strokes . Crank , mains , seals and a top end rebuild
with new piston and the cylinder recoated . Then you'll be started ,lol. You have the perfect wife brother . She's really interested in how these things work . You may make sure you do it right!! That's the makings of a really good bike .P.s , It's rattling like feck!! You have it apart and cranks aren't expensive for these , lol ,!!
You should switch the front suspension on the bikes
Loving all these videos lately. I really hope to see more projects soon :)
Odds on if the engine has been sitting unused for some time the seals would have gone hard, guessing fork seals will start leaking real soon also.
My favourite dirt bike I ever owned the KDX 200, first bike I owned was a KDX 175 back in the late seventies, had 3 200, 2 air cooled and a late 90's water cooled, great bikes
2 strokes smoke a lot but Usually only leak a little oil from the exhaust sometimes from using the wrong oil
Hey bro I have a problem with my Sazuki DRZ 125. It won’t start and if we do get it to start it will either shut off or bogg too much. We replace the carburetor and cleaned the air filter and changed the oil, but it still won’t work. Any clue on what’s wrong with it?
Keep up the good work very inspiring videos. Always look forward to your antics and positive attitude even when most people wives would have demanded you give up and take a shower, JK! Reminds me of when I was single and had time to tinker. Best subscription on RUclips for sure, Can't wait to see the next video.
Holy crap. If I took my bottom end off my kdx it’s probably getting split and gone through. Replacing it with another 30 year old bottom end is a lot of work for nothing lmao. Good luck with the bike bud!
i have been watching your show love your comedy you and your wife doo seeing her rid that scoter that made me happy to see I just got on last Sunday $1500 bike i talked him down to $650 for 2005 klx 300r indo it runs good motor new just bel replaced no brakes i need to hook up rear master brakes lights it needs brakes seat body panels the bikes you work on look much better than mine
Also I went back and viewed the c90 Honda trail video. I bought a 64 c90 trail and I'm having a heck of a time with the electrical I can't keep the battery charged I'm thinking it could be the rectifier. Any ideas on this? I wish I could drop it off at your house ha ha.
Well just a little heads up, from the factory, these bikes are jetted extremely rich from factory so they smoke a lot regardless, its something weird with these 200's, so id bet if you change the jetting on it, run 40:1 premix and warm up the bike it would probably not smoke nearly as bad, especially after you ride it around for a few minutes
Where r U getting these cheap bikes I really would like to get one for my son's ,I'm a disabled pensioner and I have three boys ,my right index finger got cut off that's y I'm a pensioner, is there any chance I could but a cheap bikevi could do up for my son's,
Hey just wondering if anyone can help me out a bit, im currently trying to fix up my dads 1984 xr500. The last time i had it running was about 9 months ago, it had been sitting since then, i tried to start it and there is very low compression, would you be able to tell me what it may be? Thanks
I'm not trying to be a smart alec here and this video is years old so I'm sure you've fixed this looong ago. But I wonder how the fuel oil mixture is? I'm sure he's not gotten it wrong but I'd start at the source. Man Jennie (I assume that's your wife's name) is just awesome! You guys are a great team and make for fun watching. You are blessed sir!
Nope. I learned nothing from your mistakes. I just finished a clutch/flywheel replacement on a car. Looked at the crank main seal and thought bahhhhh...it looks fine. But guess what? There's an oil leak. I now have to pull out the engine remove clutch and flywheel and replace the seal I should have replaced as a matter of course when it was staring me right in the face.
bossy producer I still ride my 93 200 kdx sold my 450 rmz
so how much is this $200 Kawasaki up to now?
You know she and HE of course will say it's in fun.But she keeps on with the guy about getting stuff done for her in a short amount of time but continuously tried making him feel that she was smarter or belittle the guy. Why is it that men are made to feel dumb anymore. Whether on TV or by your wife. No way I could deal with living with this lady for the rest of my life. They have to live in Oregon or Cali or Seattle that's how they act in those areas! poor guy the rest of your life with her lol darn!
Thank you so much for this video because I notesed when I change my oil on my 2001 Suzuki rm 125 less oil came out then I put in but I didnt know if this was normal and I don't have the $300 for a professional to look at so you saved me money thank you
PLEASE put the up side down fork from the spare bike on it PLEASE
My first bike was a yz125. Ran like poo, decided to try and fix it. New top end and crank seals. It was like 2 in the morning when I got it put back together and just had to fire it up. Damn throttle cable was routed wrong and first start after the rebuild it starts red lining. Man I felt like an idiot.
I need to get good at splittin cases, a lotta good old bikes around with this problem keeping them from being ridden and enjoyed for a pretty cheap price. New crank seals and top end would fix em. Even a crank not that bad if you can do the work yourself. Dig these vids, thanks
Dude just dial your mixing ratio back a little bit and see if that helps. Also, with aftermarket pipes, if you're running stock jetting, you're not properly jetted.