@@dragradialperformance3540 The production value is just fine. The 5.0 troubleshooting value is off the charts. I've yet to see anyone do what you do and have the knowledge to back it up. Most guys want to do a base idle reset to fix 5.0 issues. Meanwhile, the check engine light is on while they're showing "how well it worked". I have 2 issues I'm chasing on 2 of my 5.0's. My 91 - Has a slight surging issue when going into closed loop. Idles fine cold, once it starts to warm it starts to surge. If I leave it alone (not hit the gas) it settles itself and is fine after that. I'm thinking it's o2's. My 89: I literally just got it going after MANY YEARS of sitting. It ran perfect once I cleaned the MAF and put fresh gas in it. I was actually shocked at how well it ran - bragging about it. I sent it to the frame shop to fix the strut towers and now it surges like crazy, runs super rich, hard start, stalls. I didn't even begin to start on that to troubleshoot it though.
@@Anthony-rv3hr On your 91, it could be a dirty mass air meter, dirty IAC, bad O2 sensors, or there isn't enough idle airflow. Try unplugging the IAC on a warm engine that's idling, and adjusting the throttle stop until the engine runs, but barely above the point where it starts stalling. Maybe 500 to 600 RPMs. Then once it's there, plug the IAC back in. On your 89, look for either a loose intake hose or vacuum line issues, fuel pressure too high issue (above 40 PSI unplugged is too high), or it might be that they damaged it when welding on the car. You might try removing the computer and physically inspecting the guts of the PCM. Especially the 3 teal capacitors.
When the engine is running, the coil is firing so often that it will keep the light looking like it's just on all the time. But when you are at cranking speeds of about 175 RPM, the engine is turning slow enough that you can see each coil firing by using a test light. This test is basically a crank/no start test.
Drag Rad, I have a 1991 Lincoln Mark Vll (Cousin to the Awesome Mustang) & I have a “No spark⚡️from my coil” issue & I must’ve watched 50 videos, but U R THE MAN BRO!!! Thank you 🙏🏽 soooo much for making an EASY to comprehend video! I’m going to purchase this tester later today & I’ll keep you posted!!!🙌🏽👏🏽🤞🏽
I hooked up my incandescent like you did and mine never flashed while cranking ... on either side of the coil , hotside always on and the negative side it never flashed I have a screaming deamon coil ...you think it's fried? or faulty TFI module?
The coil should have 12v on the + side any time the key is on. That's the red/light green wire as I recall. The negative side of the coil should have some minor but noticeable pulsing going on as you're cranking the car. Make sure the negative side of the coil isn't being grounded at all times! That would burn up a coil real quick, and a failed ignition module can cause this to happen. And that would have to be fixed before installing a replacement coil, or you'll burn it up too. The PIP sensor measures engine RPM and location, and that's what the PCM uses to decide when to fire the coil and the injectors. Neither will work if the PIP sensor is bad. If the PIP sensor is good, you WILL have injector pulse when cranking, as long as the PCM is also good. But you would still need the ignition module to also be good, in order to have coil control (negative pulses going to the coil during cranking). So make sure the coil doesn't have a constant ground when the key is on. Make sure you have injector pulse, or directly measure the PIP signals to make sure the PIP sensor is putting out. And then make sure you have coil control (negative pulses at the coil). Also look for signs the coil was overheated, bulged out, cracked, burned, etc. A constantly grounded coil will overheat and melt. More often than not, it's a bad ignition module on fox bodies. On the SN95, the module is less likely to fail, but still a major suspect. You can also see if you have coil control with the SPOUT connector removed. That removes the PCM from the equation, and the TFI module fires the coil based directly on the PIP sensor's raw reading instead of using the SPOUT signal (PCM controlled spark output).
What u say would be the fault I'm having an issue with this engine where it will intermittently start I've checked spark and sometimes I don't 8 spark I might get 1 then a few seconds I'll get another one I've changed the coil pack but still the same would that be the hall effect sensor or a module fault ?
You would have to test the PIP sensor and the TFI module separately. By far, the TFI module is the more likely suspect, but either can cause a problem. The PIP sensor is easy to test, and the TFI module is really not easy. The only true way to test a TFI module is either real world replacement, or an oscilloscope. They go bad more often because of their proximity to heat. PIP sensors rarely go bad, but it's possible, and easy to test. Every time you get a PIP signal, you will also get 1 of 8 injectors firing, the fuel pump will run if it isn't already, and you will get 1 spark of the coil. If you get a PIP and not a spark, the TFI module or coil is the problem. Probably the TFI module.
Hey I wonder if you could help me out you seem pretty knowledgeable‘s about these fuel injector engines I recently had a vacuum leak on the EGR valve so I replaced it with a new EGR valve the leak win away but I went and I got a code 34 and I replaced all of the Components For the EGR. And I’m still getting a code 34
Code 34 is EGR position sensor closed valve voltage higher than expected. The position sensor is the 3-wire sensor on top of the EGR valve. It could be a bad sensor, a bad ground to that sensor, or the EGR valve could be physically stuck open some.
Drag Radial Performance Yeah I was going to check I do have a multimeter or a voltmeter but I really don’t know how to use it to test the EGR components I do know how to check the throttle position sensor but I really don’t know how to check other components with it I don’t know what to put the dial to and I don’t know where to ground the negative probe or even if I have to do that . when it comes to electricity I am very ignorant you have to excuse me
@@mikemarks1834 you might want to check out Scanner Danner's You Tube channel. Click on his playlist, and start with chapter 1, or look for videos on how to use multi-meters and test lights. He'll make a pro out of you in no time.
I’m not getting any spark at all from my distributor to spark plug, my 88 tc randomly cut off on me on the highway after I let off the gas pedal figured it was the ignition control module replaced that and cap and rotor still nothing, fuel pump kicks on, battery is good gave it a jump, alternator has been replaced few months ago, coil has power and is working idk what else it could be…
If I were you, I would test the PIP sensor using an LED test light, backprobed into the top wire on the ignition module connector. I would also make sure the coil has power when the key is on, on the red/green wire, and that the module has power and ground going to it. I would also remove the PCM, take off the cover, and inspect the 3 teal blue capacitors, and the area on the board directly below them for corrosion or breakage. Especially if the fuel pump runs all the time when you turn the key on.
Your videos should definitely have more views.
The content is good, but the video production and quality is crap.
@@dragradialperformance3540 The production value is just fine. The 5.0 troubleshooting value is off the charts. I've yet to see anyone do what you do and have the knowledge to back it up. Most guys want to do a base idle reset to fix 5.0 issues. Meanwhile, the check engine light is on while they're showing "how well it worked".
I have 2 issues I'm chasing on 2 of my 5.0's.
My 91 - Has a slight surging issue when going into closed loop. Idles fine cold, once it starts to warm it starts to surge. If I leave it alone (not hit the gas) it settles itself and is fine after that. I'm thinking it's o2's.
My 89: I literally just got it going after MANY YEARS of sitting. It ran perfect once I cleaned the MAF and put fresh gas in it. I was actually shocked at how well it ran - bragging about it. I sent it to the frame shop to fix the strut towers and now it surges like crazy, runs super rich, hard start, stalls. I didn't even begin to start on that to troubleshoot it though.
@@Anthony-rv3hr On your 91, it could be a dirty mass air meter, dirty IAC, bad O2 sensors, or there isn't enough idle airflow. Try unplugging the IAC on a warm engine that's idling, and adjusting the throttle stop until the engine runs, but barely above the point where it starts stalling. Maybe 500 to 600 RPMs. Then once it's there, plug the IAC back in.
On your 89, look for either a loose intake hose or vacuum line issues, fuel pressure too high issue (above 40 PSI unplugged is too high), or it might be that they damaged it when welding on the car. You might try removing the computer and physically inspecting the guts of the PCM. Especially the 3 teal capacitors.
Drag Rad, your videos are EXCELLENT!!!
When going from the coil with the tester what cause the light to stay on? I tested it with engine running. Great videos by the way.
When the engine is running, the coil is firing so often that it will keep the light looking like it's just on all the time. But when you are at cranking speeds of about 175 RPM, the engine is turning slow enough that you can see each coil firing by using a test light. This test is basically a crank/no start test.
@@dragradialperformance3540 awesome, thank you for responding.
Drag Rad, I have a 1991 Lincoln Mark Vll (Cousin to the Awesome Mustang) & I have a “No spark⚡️from my coil” issue & I must’ve watched 50 videos, but U R THE MAN BRO!!! Thank you 🙏🏽 soooo much for making an EASY to comprehend video! I’m going to purchase this tester later today & I’ll keep you posted!!!🙌🏽👏🏽🤞🏽
I hooked up my incandescent like you did and mine never flashed while cranking ... on either side of the coil , hotside always on and the negative side it never flashed I have a screaming deamon coil ...you think it's fried? or faulty TFI module?
The coil should have 12v on the + side any time the key is on. That's the red/light green wire as I recall. The negative side of the coil should have some minor but noticeable pulsing going on as you're cranking the car. Make sure the negative side of the coil isn't being grounded at all times! That would burn up a coil real quick, and a failed ignition module can cause this to happen. And that would have to be fixed before installing a replacement coil, or you'll burn it up too.
The PIP sensor measures engine RPM and location, and that's what the PCM uses to decide when to fire the coil and the injectors. Neither will work if the PIP sensor is bad. If the PIP sensor is good, you WILL have injector pulse when cranking, as long as the PCM is also good. But you would still need the ignition module to also be good, in order to have coil control (negative pulses going to the coil during cranking).
So make sure the coil doesn't have a constant ground when the key is on. Make sure you have injector pulse, or directly measure the PIP signals to make sure the PIP sensor is putting out. And then make sure you have coil control (negative pulses at the coil). Also look for signs the coil was overheated, bulged out, cracked, burned, etc. A constantly grounded coil will overheat and melt.
More often than not, it's a bad ignition module on fox bodies. On the SN95, the module is less likely to fail, but still a major suspect. You can also see if you have coil control with the SPOUT connector removed. That removes the PCM from the equation, and the TFI module fires the coil based directly on the PIP sensor's raw reading instead of using the SPOUT signal (PCM controlled spark output).
What u say would be the fault I'm having an issue with this engine where it will intermittently start I've checked spark and sometimes I don't 8 spark I might get 1 then a few seconds I'll get another one I've changed the coil pack but still the same would that be the hall effect sensor or a module fault ?
You would have to test the PIP sensor and the TFI module separately. By far, the TFI module is the more likely suspect, but either can cause a problem. The PIP sensor is easy to test, and the TFI module is really not easy. The only true way to test a TFI module is either real world replacement, or an oscilloscope. They go bad more often because of their proximity to heat. PIP sensors rarely go bad, but it's possible, and easy to test. Every time you get a PIP signal, you will also get 1 of 8 injectors firing, the fuel pump will run if it isn't already, and you will get 1 spark of the coil. If you get a PIP and not a spark, the TFI module or coil is the problem. Probably the TFI module.
Awesome man !
Hey I wonder if you could help me out you seem pretty knowledgeable‘s about these fuel injector engines I recently had a vacuum leak on the EGR valve so I replaced it with a new EGR valve the leak win away but I went and I got a code 34 and I replaced all of the Components For the EGR. And I’m still getting a code 34
Code 34 is EGR position sensor closed valve voltage higher than expected. The position sensor is the 3-wire sensor on top of the EGR valve. It could be a bad sensor, a bad ground to that sensor, or the EGR valve could be physically stuck open some.
Drag Radial Performance Yeah I was going to check I do have a multimeter or a voltmeter but I really don’t know how to use it to test the EGR components I do know how to check the throttle position sensor but I really don’t know how to check other components with it I don’t know what to put the dial to and I don’t know where to ground the negative probe or even if I have to do that . when it comes to electricity I am very ignorant you have to excuse me
@@mikemarks1834 you might want to check out Scanner Danner's You Tube channel. Click on his playlist, and start with chapter 1, or look for videos on how to use multi-meters and test lights. He'll make a pro out of you in no time.
Drag Radial Performance Hey I appreciate it for all of your help I’m gonna go check him out
I’m not getting any spark at all from my distributor to spark plug, my 88 tc randomly cut off on me on the highway after I let off the gas pedal figured it was the ignition control module replaced that and cap and rotor still nothing, fuel pump kicks on, battery is good gave it a jump, alternator has been replaced few months ago, coil has power and is working idk what else it could be…
If I were you, I would test the PIP sensor using an LED test light, backprobed into the top wire on the ignition module connector. I would also make sure the coil has power when the key is on, on the red/green wire, and that the module has power and ground going to it. I would also remove the PCM, take off the cover, and inspect the 3 teal blue capacitors, and the area on the board directly below them for corrosion or breakage. Especially if the fuel pump runs all the time when you turn the key on.