Hello, I have a 2011 Ford Explorer and I have the code p0456 evaporitive emission system leak detected, but it tells me PERMANENT, THE PURGE VALVE ALREADY CHANGE, when I accelerate fully it chokes and makes explosions and releases a strong smell of gasoline, I hope you can help me. I'd be really grateful.
Thanks for not having an intro video and music. I do appreciate it, really. You're straight forward and that's also great. I would have liked to know about replacing the rubber seal on the gas cap door because I just discovered my ring shaped rubber seal on the gas inlet door is torn. Maybe next video.
Jérôme Denis - Heya. Thanks for kind words. I do believe the outer fuel door w/ weather seal is one piece from ford. So you’d need whole outer door to get seal. It would have to be painted to match car if you get it from Ford as body parts are generally painted primer or black. You should call dealer and give them VIN#. They can tell you exactly. Remember - ‘Easy Fuel’ capless cars - outer seal does not seal tank! It’s a weather seal only
@@AutomotiveEZ Thanks for the quick and accurate answer, much appreciated again! I'll pass on buying a new fuel inlet door though it's good to know so I won't keep looking for the rubber seal sold separately as it's not offered that way. I do have the codes P0455 and P0456 at the present time on 2010 Ford Escape 3.0L. I did clean the inlet as you've demonstrated well & I had the Genuine Ford Vapor Canister Vent Solenoid 9U5Z-9F945-C replaced but the codes are still showing, engine dash light still on. Too bad I didn't see this video before spending $ on that. So, I will be adding the Genuine Ford Locking Fuel Cap next, hope that does it or I'll be replacing the Vapor Canister Purge Valve-GAS MOTORCRAFT CX-2626. BTW you've done the best video on RUclips for replacing the Vapor Canister Valve!
Jérôme Denis - if the truck has Easy Fuel (capless fill behind hinged door) there is a chance the filler neck is faulty! (Rusty and leaking vapor) Thx again and best of luck! If in doubt have evap system smoke tested at shop or dealer
Im so glad I saw this video and tried this before buying/installing the EVMV valve that autozone recommended when I checked the code. Cleared the problem with a rag and a squirt of WD40!
I was getting a code p0454 on my 2015 mustang gt but as soon as I filled it with gas engine light went away. My mustang is also gas capless. The gas door was closed properly from what I could tell, maybe it was the entrance to the gassing up part wasn't closed properly. Don't know just glad that engine light went away. I'll try cleaning it with silicone too like u did. Thanks for posting
@@renedelafuente123 You’re welcome. But keep in mind I have replaced many filler necks on Mustang and other Ford products that are all capless. They tend to rot out under car behind quarter panel where you cannot see it from outside. However, I still got many working again with the simple clean up and a new purge valve. I only clean the non rusty ones at work but my advantage is having a real lift to first inspect undercarriage. Be well!
@@rodneyallgire6864 Thank you sir. Usually if I do that - or, you saw it on any video here , is because I hooked up scanner (to control the valve remotely) or used a fused power probe. Why? To feel with hand and/or hear it click on and off. That generally is a solid test unless valve cannot hold vacuum which is on mechanical side. Thanks again
Worked perfectly appreciate you for making this video bossman…😂 i broke my clip trying to take off that cheap ass clip though..and i couldn’t find that cleaning spray you had so i used a little wd40
I have a 2016 3.7 nustang and it shows a p1450 over and over again I replaced the purge solenoid as well and even did a smoke test to see if there is any leak in the evap system . I will try cleaning the fuel gas cap , Only I want to confirm that will it be fine if the silicone stuff you used gets inside the gas tank while I am cleaning it ? Also since the 2016 have a extra cap on their gas cap will cleaning it fix the cel ? It even showed the p0456 One time so I will try cleaning the gas cap any tips or suggestion from you will help . Thank you . 😊
Wish the 2014 fusion 2.0 was this easy.Ive gone through 9 purge valves in last 5 years and now also have the check fuel inlet light but cleaning doesn't help.Bought a new filler neck as told if I can push the flap inside with my finger open its a broken flap.
Hi there! The filler necks do fail a lot. I generally only clean the low mileage ones that are not all rotted out. Some of them get really rusty and develop leaks
Thank you for all the information re/cleaning and protecting this system. This could be the problem with our 2012 EDGE. The inside door stuck today preventing my wife from getting gas. I'll bet WD 40 would also raise Cain with the rubber seals in there as well as brake cleaner.
Jimmy Ross - Thx for your comments. I have fixed a lot of P0455 codes on Ford “easy fill” equipped vehicles with the ‘clean and lube” illustrated here. I use “clear silicone” specifically - because it’s very compatible with rubber or rubber-silicone seals. Brake clean is terrible and highly corrosive. WD40 is a great product but seems to tear up “soft seals”. However it is great for HARD PLASTIC bushings lol. I know from experience. It is great on metal too.. Thx again
AutomotiveEZ good evening nice channel and very clear I have a 2014 Ford Taurus v6 my car is shaking like crazy I think my fuel filter needs to be replace could you please help me with the location I can’t find it
@@juliorivero7995 Hey there - sorry for late reply. Been so busy. There's NO serviceable fuel filter in your Taurus! The filter is part of the FUEL PUMP MODULE Assembly inside fuel tank. Most vehicles are built this way going back 15-20 yrs ago. That's how long ago they started eliminating the serviceable "chassis" fuel filter. NOT a good idea if you ask me but car makers only care about their profits and making lighter vehicles with less parts for various reasons like fuel economy
(Liked and subbed) I just bought an 11 mustang v6. Strong gas smell on the interior. Perfectly healthy idle and fuel economy, but it’s so powerful it’s nauseating. I’m planning on doing the cleaning as you performed tmrw, but I was just curious if you think the cleaning and valve change could cause this? If so i don’t mind trying this then send to mechanic to check hoses if they don’t work. If in your experience the valve doesn’t result in strong smell I’ll just let them find it on their own. Also, I heard this suction noise in the cabin on acceleration by the left vent, not sure if that related or a separate issue. Nonetheless wonderful content! Very well done! Edit: One more question, should I be inspecting the o-rings on the injectors as well? It’s more of a project car so I have the time and was curious if you came across it
Hey there - thanks for your kind words! Can you tell if the gas odor is in front or rear of vehicle? The purge valve can make a fuel odor under hood. Sometimes the entire filler neck is rotting leaking vapors in back - or vent valve at canister
Great video. My V6 mustang 2012 is missing the rubber piece that permits you to push the fuel door open. Is this a complete filler neck replacement? Thanks.
ALT Institute - the plastic surround that goes around metal filler neck is a separate piece. It clips in with no screws. It also has the rubber covered ‘spring pin’ that allows fuel door to latch shut and spring open when door is pushed on
Hello, I have a 2015 mustang but the code detected was P0442 which stands for “Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected” Also, every time I put gas, my car has a strong smell of gas that lasts for 1 day
Make sure that the guy pumping your gas is not topping off your tank! They have to be told not to do this and why not to do it. If the tank gets too much gas from being topped off it will push gas past the tank vent valve and introduce raw fuel into the vapor canister! This system is designed to only take gas vapor or what is referred to as hydrocarbons and store them in charcoal inside the canister until the computer tells the purge solenoid to open and suck them into the intake manifold and burn them when it is ready for this to happen. It can also set off a check engine light for a rich fuel code from pouring liquid fuel instead of vapors in the engine.😉
Would this make my fusion struggle to start after filling with fuel? I have to rev it for 2 minutes after filling with fuel every time now. I’ve already replace the purge and evap a year ago. Never tried the filler cap
@@mrmidnight32 Hello. Did you change the purge valve under the hood? To be clear, you’d follow the evap pipe underhood - where the valve has input and output side. Output must go to Intake or throttle body if you have the right valve. After replacement all codes DTC’s need to be cleared. Engine lamp would be off if they clear correctly. Then you need a good long steady road test on highway to reset monitors. If CEL returns during road test vehicle needs a fresh scan to see what code is set. Sometimes old code goes away and a new code sets in post repair
I kept getting “check fuel fill inlet” eventually engine light came on & now my MPG is slowly going down & getting way less gas on a full tank. Do you think it could be the fuel filler neck or purge valve?
It can be either. I will say those fuel necks rust out and leak vapors when they get old. I have changed many! And the purge valve is easy to change too
so I have a 2011 Ford Edge and about 3 and so weeks ago I got an engine light on and ran and OBD2 scanner tool and got a P0456 code and went ahead and replace the the Purge Valve and reset the code engine light went away and now today the engine light came on once again, ran the scanner once more and got the same code P0456 (small valve leak) at this point before I go ahead and get this diagnosed by a mechanic what else should a look for or try? Best regards,
Ashroller22 - if you have the Easy Fill you can clean it like in this video. You should also physically inspect all the evap tubes the best you can with your eyes. But the best way is a smoke test and a scanner to turn on / off the purge valve and vent valve and so on. Make sure they have power and work correctly. The latter steps are best done at a shop
Elvis Briseno - Erase them if you’re able as you’ll get a quicker end result. The Evap monitor would run after clearing (when conditions are met) and if code pops back on in a few days or a week you’d have to go further. One bit of advice is keep fuel level between 1/4 and 3/4 tank as evap monitors don’t tend to run with empty or full tanks. Thx for commenting, pls subscribe!
Mark Zhuravel - Heya. It does not work that way. A P0456 indicates a fairly small Evap System leak. It is not specific to a particular part failure. A multitude of different Evap part failures can cause this code. Even a leak in a tube. The system needs to be tested by a competent technician
AutomotiveEZ thanks for the reply. So I’m looking at my gas location and it’s very dirty and there is lots of dust. I’m very positive that this could be the problem.
Mark Zhuravel - Well any dirt or debris can be an issue at fill location. You should clean filler neck and install new gas cap if it is a cap style system. If easy fill - follow my video. Clear codes and retest
If a DTC Related issue is actually repaired successfully - the DTC will be cleared by vehicle computer (PCM / ECU / ECM - Whatever you prefer to call it) However, this can take a real long time. Some DTC's need to be "clear" in the eyes of the vehicle's on board PCM for 20, 30 or even 40 drive cycles. Way better off going to a shop to clear it or buy a $25 pocket code reader. Because to me - it's much better to clear it and then drive - to see if it comes back. Time is of the element. No need to wait 20-40 days when you can just clear the code cheaply of for free. I do believe autozone and advance check and clear codes for free.
Metronome Senpai - Hi. That code is for Purge Control Circuit. So it can be the Valve, wiring or even PCM. Probably best You take to a shop. Or if you want to try yourself - purge valve may fox you up
Have a P0456 on 2014 Edge. Goign to try cleaning EF area first. can a Blaster dry lube with Teflone be used? or only silicone lubricant? this says "Safe for use on plastics - does NOT contain silicone or chlorinated solvents". Thanks
The EGR system would not set a P0455 code. The 0455 code is for evaporative emissions system. The EGR is a separate system. So you may have more then one issue. You should find a REAL mechanic near you to inspect it. It may cost a few bucks but is worth it in the end
I'm getting a code p0456 on my 2010 Mustang V6. Where is the purge valve on my car? The purge valve location in this video must be in a different location on my vehicle.
Your Mustang is older. Different engine brother. Not a 3.7 but a 4.0 V6 - pretty sure your purge valve is near air box lid / strut tower / and not on intake like the 3.7
Totally unrelated question but what edition is this vehicle? I have a 14 Mustang and my grill does not look like this. Mine is a ford logo and a honeycomb pattern. Is this an aftermarket grill? I would really like to get this type of grill for mine.
Billy Bob - Hey Billy. GREAT question. The car in my video is indeed a SPECIAL edition. It’s a 2013 Mustang MCA. So, MCA - stands for “Mustang Club of America. It’s mostly a trim and wheel package. However the V6 in this car is 305 HP. And the one in my video has a 6 spd manual. It is very fast! The grille is an MCA Grille - hence the very unique look it has. It’s slatted and looks like aluminum. Ford calls it a billet grille but I never checked to see what it is made of, lol However it looks awesome. In a nutshell - go to a Ford Dealer and pick up a Mustang MCA grille. Emblem may come separate.. I think the MCA was made from 2011-2014. Pls subscribe and thx for posting!
I have a question about the purge valve on a 2017 Ford Escape 1.5 L Ecoboost Engine. Is it the same purge valve as is in this video? I can't seem to find it when googling the only result I get is what appears to be a hose.
Sorry for delay! The ecoboost has a totally different Purge Valve and Design. You should look it up by application. (year/make/model and engine) Also - harder to install on an ecoboost. Best to have it diagnosed first if you're unsure.
Ford Publishes test procedures for all DTC’s just like all car makes do. You need to get the P0456 test for your specific vehicle - and perform it. The actual (various) emissions valve can be tested with a vacuum pump and power probe - off vehicle
Hey have a 2016 fusion se ecoboost 1.5L4... Engine code p4150 came up... Is that the purge valve??.. Like the same piece you had installed under your hood?
Hi. I'm pretty sure you meant to type "P1450" for the code you have. Yes, it "may" be related to the Purge Valve but does not have to be. All the "various" Evaporative Emissions related codes - can have different reasons for being there (the root failure) So, with that said, it can be a Purge valve but can also be a Vent Solenoid, a tank pressure sensor, kinks in tubing or other blockages. And even many more items than that. This is why it's best to see a qualified Shop and Tech to diagnose it. My video is more to show that "many evap codes" can be fixed up with these simple parts that most anyone can change / check and clean - like that filler neck. They are always neglected. My procedure may save you some money. But it's a gamble, unless the system is actually tested first and a fault is found. Evap systems are one of the hardest to diagnose (time consuming) because there are SO MANY parts and SO MUCH plumbing from rear fuel tank up to engine. And everything is controlled by the PCM. Hope this helps!
son vu - Hello there. If you watched my video, carefully... You’ll see the FORD furnishes their “easy fuel - easy fill” vehicles with a “funnel / filler adapter” - with the vehicle - when it’s built. Your vehicle should have this funnel - which is used if you run out of fuel (so you can fill tank using a can) If you can locate this funnel just run it in and out of fill flap with clear silicone. It’s all in my video. Does not matter if it’s a newer version - as of now - at least
AutomotiveEZ thanks for your reply. My inlet has two layers of flap. The plastic outside and another one inside. I will try your method with a screwdriver to open the outside flap and clean the inside one. Hope it will work out. Thanks a lot.
AutomotiveEZ also, can I use silicone WD-40? www.walmart.com/ip/WD-40-Specialist-Water-Resistant-Silicone-Lubricant-with-SMART-STRAW-SPRAYS-2-WAYS-11-OZ/21838836
son vu - Can you post an image so I can see it? Again - if the vehicle has the “fuel adapter” in luggage area I’d use that instead of a home made object
Question: no problem filling the tank on my 2015 Escape, but after filling. It's a hard start...almost won't start. Haven't done a code source check yet.
@@ejneenan9329 You’re welcome. Is an inexpensive - first step. A hung up purge valve will cause an extended crank many times. If it does not help please see a local mechanic you trust. Be well
Have you ever cleared the codes then recheck it and it still picks it up? Basically, you clear it and recheck it to make sure it cleared but it still remains? The scanner pciked up a few codes and those cleared but one code p0455 just will not clear but so far no light has come on.
Tony P - Turn key on - engine off. Clear codes. As soon as tool clears codes - key off. Pull tool. Then start and drive briefly. If p0455 is there immediately you likely have an electrical issue - shorted or open circuit. That would (usually) explain (most) any code that comes back instantly. Because otherwise it takes time for circuit to self test via monitors. And I can’t diagnose a code over a computer. So this is simply general advise! No promises intended
Tony P - That can happen easily! Codes that set in ecu may not turn on check engine lamp until the ecu sees them for several drive cycles. That is a fact. The lamp is a driver alert. The code is validated before lamp is engaged. All is based on the software logic
@@AutomotiveEZ So I take it, it will not pass test then with that code and no light on? Also waiting for the readiness to be complete but I know the evap system can take time. Thanks for your help by the way..
So the pigtail connector right above that evap line in the purge valve the clip is broken and it doesn’t click back into place when I push it back on- could that cause a P0456?? I’ve cleaned the inside of the valve, and the easy fill like shown and it didn’t resolve the issue but then when putting it back together that connector could slide on and off because the clip broke on it wasn’t sure if that would do it.. any opinion?
@@michaelisbae734 The connector lock tab breaks on those commonly. Not unusual. A new pigtail can be spliced in. Motorcraft used to have them available. If not, you can actually use some weather strip calk. 3M Brand - Part # 08578 - put a smidge of calk strip on inside of connector - hollow part - not near the metal contact points. Push it on til seated… Is a sorta rubbery dum-dum strip. Never hardens… remains pliable but the connector will not come loose if you do it right. The box has a bunch of 12“ strips but you only need a tiny piece more like a “dot” size piece
@@AutomotiveEZ will try this and update you when I finished it hopefully it’ll clear that code. Also I appreciate you taking the time to reply despite this video being posted a long time ago haha, Thank you again
I have a 2008 mercury mountaineer v6 4.0 and I'm having this issue. P0455 code. I got all plugs and wires and coil pack replaced . Also put in seafoam a week ago nd ran it til empty and refilled with fresh gas. I changed evap solenoid already still there. It's been to like 4 shops and they couldn't figure it out. Could I use this same method? I also have no gas cap
Hi Jennajone45 - Yes - all Ford “easy fill” capless vehicles can be cleaned this way using factory funnel. But if you have a P0455 (large evap leak) you likely need to replace ENTIRE FILLER NECK. Cleaning only seems to help w/ smaller leaks. Also there are at least 2 Evap solenoids on ANY vehicle & some have many more than that. Purge solenoids and vent solenoids are most common offenders - they fail. Unfortunately the Ford Easy Fill neck seems to fail at 7-10 years / sometimes sooner. I have changed many! Lastly you can have a broken Evap pipe. A good shop would smoke test it to pinpoint issue but seems most shops are terrible these days. Best of luck!
Did the silicone spray on the flapper hinges, replaced the canister purge valve and the code is still popping up even after clearing. I’m guessing new filler neck is the next step?
Matthew Stokes - Hey there buddy - a proper smoke test would be best! However - these filler necks do fail too. I changes a couple already on Fords and had great success. For small / medium leaks. Best of luck!
Thanks! You guys are awesome to reply. I really appreciate it. One last question. Would there be anything in between a new filler neck and the canister purge valve that could possibly be the problem?
Heya... any CLEAR silicone spray is fine. Like CRC or any name brand. Just make sure it is clear - they also make white silicone which is sticky and heavy. Clear is like water and does not attract dirt. The can may say “CLEAR, Heavy Duty Silicone” on it
That is a great question. And I have the answer. However - depends on root cause. For example a P0456 can be a leak near fuel tank - smaller size leak if compared to say, a P0455. However - a 456 leak that say was stemming from a purge valve seal being intermittent - that in fact may effect fuel mileage and may even cause a rough idle. Codes stored in vehicles can originate from multiple sources of failure. No ONE code has an exact origin. I hope this helps. Be well
@@AutomotiveEZ i replced the canister purge valve, but check engine light remined even after reset. Would you say replacing the filler neck would solve this issue?? Thanks in advance ! Subscribed!
@@george5697 Hi George. The top “failed” parts I’ve done on Ford for this code - under hood Purge Valve and/or Filler Neck - the other item is canister Vent Valve. Look at filler neck under car for rust. When they get real rusty they do leak vapors - especially the Easy Fill style filler pipe
Daniel - The parts that ate shown in my video are only the EASY Fill Neck and Purge Valve. They are both used on GT as well. There was no motor (electrical motor or otherwise) shown here
I hava a Ford Fiesta 2015 and the check engine litgh Start to show up, a friend scan the car and mark P1450 code,the car sometimes i Charge fuel and start the car the engine went off, ten y justo rey again and no problem , this tips can help me?
Hi Juan - with the P1450 you most likely have a bad Purge Valve under hood or bad Vent Valve at tank area. I’d start with Purge Valve and use a Motorcraft Part. Hope this helps
@@jayredhouse - generally the tank sending unit - or cluster where gauge is - however can even be in wiring. I can’t say for sure unless I tested car myself
Hello, I have a 2019 Ford Fusion my code is P04EF and I can’t seem to find any videos exactly with that code but these codes come up could it be the same situation? Please anything helps.
Anyone know why the rubber seal around the fuel tank door would be melting? My vehicle has a gas cap. Wondering if there any fume leaks near the main fuel kneck would cause the rubber seal to melt on the fuel tank door? Its the seal around the front fuel door i notice melting. Never noticed that before. I did get a tighten gas cap indicator light on dash. I did go to dealer and replaced the cap and eventually check engine light came on. I scanned the code and got a P0455 code that states Evaporative Emissions System Leak Detected (Gross Leak/No Flow) what do yall think? Bad Fuel kneck or?
Going to shoot my shot. Hey there I have p0456 2013 escape 1.6 ecoboost :/ so I tried doing the thumb test to see if suction but the issue is you can’t just take the purge valve apart. It’s the whole system assembly. Anyway, tried that but I didn’t get suction before or after I disconnected the power to it. So I’m lost. I’m a do it yourself guy but I’m so lost in this. It’s my wife’s car, only has issue starting after fueling up. That’s all. Guessing I need to get the whole Evap system. What do you think? Thanks
I’ve found the canister on autozone, looks like the goes towards the bottom end next to the inter cooler or bottom corner of radiator. Idk what’s really there lol but it’s either the canister or valve. Now I got more questions. Wow.
Ben - if it’s hard to start up after a refuel - start with UNDER-HOOD Purge Valve. The valve is part of the tube assembly on 1.6 EcoBoost... It’s Plug n Play after you figure out the quick disconnect fittings. Part # for your escape should be CV6Z9D289T. However, confirm part # before buying. And follow tubes under hood before buying to make sure you’re comfy doing this job. If not - go to dealer. Because the average shop will install cheap crap white box part. I only use Motorcraft on Fords at my shop. Best of luck!
@@AutomotiveEZ hey thank for the reply and your personal time friend. I’ll type it out fully. I actually just took my first look for the fix about an hour ago. Been having trouble starting only after fueling for months now. I knew what happened I just don’t know exactly what to replace. It’s different than any other Evap system just because the purge valve doesn’t seem to disconnect from the system. Replacing the whole thing looks easy enough. I’m just trying to see if I can buy just the purge valve for 30$ rather than buy the whole system for 100$. Thanks and sorry for my confusion. I’m going to research if it could be the solenoid instead
@@AutomotiveEZ but like I said I tried doing the thumb trick, didn’t seem to get suction with connector plugged in or not. Guessing purge valve is stuck closed
So I have a 2017 Fiesta, accidentally started it with the fuel door open. Started rough and now check engine light is on. I tried the fuel door trick but can’t find anything else on it.
Steve Miller - so it is possible you need a new filler neck - since it’s a cap-less system. The seal on the gas door is just a dust seal and does not seal tank at all
HyunWulf Moon - Hi. That code is a bit generic and likely off an inexpensive “pocket” scanner. Is likely evap related purge or vent issue. I need a solid P-CODE or Manufacturer Code to work off. Easily had off a real scanner
Hey - you could have a small / medium leak with those codes. Should have it smoke tested for leaks.. Also - any valve in system not sealing 100 percent can trigger those codes.
I have cleaned the gas inlet and reset the codes and have done over 450 kms so far.. no codes have come up yet in the scan.. how many kilometers will it take for the system to check for leaks in the evap system
@@WrightStrenghtandAgility You can pick up a pocket scanner that pulls codes and displays READINESS MONITOR STATUS as well. A steady drive on highway usually does the trick for most monitor resets. But you need to vary speed and do some long decels foot off gas etc. Monitor drive strategy can be found in most repair manuals online under emissions section. Be well!
@@WrightStrenghtandAgility PS - Monitors can reset in 40 miles or less if driven correctly from a cold start. Gas tank should be between 1/4 and 3/4 filled. Not empty or full! Because then, that monitor will not run. Gotta check readiness status along the way as well
@@AutomotiveEZ Ford states P1450 has to do with purge valve and canister, but my canister is fine. We are replacing the purge valve which also seemed to test fine. I have found dirt and water around my filler neck pocket, however.
Johnsen silicone spray but you can also use CRC brand. Just make sure it is clear silicone. Not white silicone. Not petroleum based either. Plain silicone
In the video I mentioned to only use a clear silicone. Not a petroleum lube. The brand name does not matter. However - I generally use CRC brand clear silicone. Clear silicone sprays out like water. There is a white silicone product on market.. that looks like lithium grease and is sticky… Stay away from white silicone when it comes to gas tank and evap seals
Hey there - I do not think WD40 or Clear Silicone is hard on any filler neck parts at all. Or seals.. I do know BRAKE CLEAN is very harsh, lol. It is more corrosive than Gas. Gas was way better before they decided to add all the Ethanol - which dries out rubber parts and is corrosive. We have too much alcohol / Ethanol in fuel
I have a 2014 Ford fusion 1.5 that had the P0456 code. More than likely my gas cap less tank is just dirty so where exactly would I spray wd40 on the flap or around it ?
No - do not use WD40. Only clear silicone for tank seals and hoses and use sparingly. You should have the code diagnosed at a shop if you see nothing obvious
Best video for this job, thanks
17aagarcia - Thx so much!
Hello, I have a 2011 Ford Explorer and I have the code p0456 evaporitive emission system leak detected, but it tells me PERMANENT, THE PURGE VALVE ALREADY CHANGE, when I accelerate fully it chokes and makes explosions and releases a strong smell of gasoline, I hope you can help me. I'd be really grateful.
@@brandondeleon5529 Hi. The P0456 is medium orifice leak and should not cause backfires or any severe symptom
I cleaned the gas cap area like you suggested. Code cleared. Car inspected. You saved me 700 dollars
Awesome :)
did you have to manually clear the code, or just drive around for code to clear?
@@ericfellinger4613 manually cleared the code
@@terrykeatley5775how do you do that?
Thanks for not having an intro video and music. I do appreciate it, really. You're straight forward and that's also great. I would have liked to know about replacing the rubber seal on the gas cap door because I just discovered my ring shaped rubber seal on the gas inlet door is torn. Maybe next video.
Jérôme Denis - Heya. Thanks for kind words. I do believe the outer fuel door w/ weather seal is one piece from ford. So you’d need whole outer door to get seal. It would have to be painted to match car if you get it from Ford as body parts are generally painted primer or black. You should call dealer and give them VIN#. They can tell you exactly. Remember - ‘Easy Fuel’ capless cars - outer seal does not seal tank! It’s a weather seal only
@@AutomotiveEZ Thanks for the quick and accurate answer, much appreciated again! I'll pass on buying a new fuel inlet door though it's good to know so I won't keep looking for the rubber seal sold separately as it's not offered that way. I do have the codes P0455 and P0456 at the present time on 2010 Ford Escape 3.0L. I did clean the inlet as you've demonstrated well & I had the Genuine Ford Vapor Canister Vent Solenoid 9U5Z-9F945-C replaced but the codes are still showing, engine dash light still on. Too bad I didn't see this video before spending $ on that. So, I will be adding the Genuine Ford Locking Fuel Cap next, hope that does it or I'll be replacing the Vapor Canister Purge Valve-GAS MOTORCRAFT CX-2626. BTW you've done the best video on RUclips for replacing the Vapor Canister Valve!
Jérôme Denis - if the truck has Easy Fuel (capless fill behind hinged door) there is a chance the filler neck is faulty! (Rusty and leaking vapor) Thx again and best of luck! If in doubt have evap system smoke tested at shop or dealer
Im so glad I saw this video and tried this before buying/installing the EVMV valve that autozone recommended when I checked the code. Cleared the problem with a rag and a squirt of WD40!
Thanks very much. I do try to be helpful :)
THANK YOU SO MUCH! YOU SAVED ME 200.00 DOLLARS THAT THE FORD DEALERSHIP WANTED. YOU ARE MY HERO! THANKS AGAIN. TONY TACKETT
tony tackett - Thx a bunch. I love to help people out. Pls subscribe! Be well..
My truck is 0451 I’m gonna try this on my 2015 Ford F-150.. it’s weird bc the code comes up then disappears a few days later..
@@indianaeuc7617 Did it work? That's the code I got on my F150. Going to clean the gas door/opening today.
@@jimh.412 yea it works
@@indianaeuc7617 Awesome. Thanks!
I was getting a code p0454 on my 2015 mustang gt but as soon as I filled it with gas engine light went away. My mustang is also gas capless. The gas door was closed properly from what I could tell, maybe it was the entrance to the gassing up part wasn't closed properly. Don't know just glad that engine light went away. I'll try cleaning it with silicone too like u did. Thanks for posting
@@renedelafuente123 You’re welcome. But keep in mind I have replaced many filler necks on Mustang and other Ford products that are all capless. They tend to rot out under car behind quarter panel where you cannot see it from outside. However, I still got many working again with the simple clean up and a new purge valve. I only clean the non rusty ones at work but my advantage is having a real lift to first inspect undercarriage. Be well!
I saw one video where you put your finger on the valve to see if its turning on or off? Thought that was a clever test.
@@rodneyallgire6864 Thank you sir. Usually if I do that - or, you saw it on any video here , is because I hooked up scanner (to control the valve remotely) or used a fused power probe. Why? To feel with hand and/or hear it click on and off. That generally is a solid test unless valve cannot hold vacuum which is on mechanical side. Thanks again
Do I need to disconnect the battery before changing the purge valve? Thanks for the video
It is not a bad idea. But after the disconnect you have to reset clock - radio and basic settings
Worked perfectly appreciate you for making this video bossman…😂 i broke my clip trying to take off that cheap ass clip though..and i couldn’t find that cleaning spray you had so i used a little wd40
Thank you for the kind words
Great job really showing the clips and everything! Ill be doing this tomorrow. Thanks
Thank You!
Did you fix the problem?
@@mustafaertoprak2284 Yes the scan was for spark plugs. Not easy to change but it worked. I cleaned the fuel cap too. Thanks!
Changed the purge valve but the light came back on but will clean the gas cap area. Hopefully it goes away
Sometimes fuel neck needs replacing - they rot out or door sticks in neck
I have a 2016 3.7 nustang and it shows a p1450 over and over again I replaced the purge solenoid as well and even did a smoke test to see if there is any leak in the evap system . I will try cleaning the fuel gas cap , Only I want to confirm that will it be fine if the silicone stuff you used gets inside the gas tank while I am cleaning it ? Also since the 2016 have a extra cap on their gas cap will cleaning it fix the cel ? It even showed the p0456 One time so I will try cleaning the gas cap any tips or suggestion from you will help . Thank you . 😊
Did it fix the problem?
Wish the 2014 fusion 2.0 was this easy.Ive gone through 9 purge valves in last 5 years and now also have the check fuel inlet light but cleaning doesn't help.Bought a new filler neck as told if I can push the flap inside with my finger open its a broken flap.
Hi there! The filler necks do fail a lot. I generally only clean the low mileage ones that are not all rotted out. Some of them get really rusty and develop leaks
A+ on this video, fantastic content and knowledge
Thanks very much. Your words are super KIND. Be assured - I do appreciate you. If the video helped at all that was the goal. :) . Have a great day!
Fixed my Mustang, thanks so much
Lol, looks like you and I have the same problem. I filled up my tank to full last night and now I have this P0456 code.. 2021 Mustang GT.
@@ricopopman5038 Welcome. Be well!
Thank you for all the information re/cleaning and protecting this system. This could be the problem with our 2012 EDGE. The inside door stuck today preventing my wife from getting gas. I'll bet WD 40 would also raise Cain with the rubber seals in there as well as brake cleaner.
Jimmy Ross - Thx for your comments. I have fixed a lot of P0455 codes on Ford “easy fill” equipped vehicles with the ‘clean and lube” illustrated here. I use “clear silicone” specifically - because it’s very compatible with rubber or rubber-silicone seals. Brake clean is terrible and highly corrosive. WD40 is a great product but seems to tear up “soft seals”. However it is great for HARD PLASTIC bushings lol. I know from experience. It is great on metal too.. Thx again
AutomotiveEZ good evening nice channel and very clear I have a 2014 Ford Taurus v6 my car is shaking like crazy I think my fuel filter needs to be replace could you please help me with the location I can’t find it
@@juliorivero7995 Hey there - sorry for late reply. Been so busy. There's NO serviceable fuel filter in your Taurus! The filter is part of the FUEL PUMP MODULE Assembly inside fuel tank. Most vehicles are built this way going back 15-20 yrs ago. That's how long ago they started eliminating the serviceable "chassis" fuel filter. NOT a good idea if you ask me but car makers only care about their profits and making lighter vehicles with less parts for various reasons like fuel economy
my 2015 needs a new purge valve every other month.....
Where can I find the clear silicone and how does it look like, thank you
CRC Heavy Duty Silicone. Here you go www.crcindustries.com/products/heavy-duty-silicone-lubricant-7-5-wt-oz-05074.html
Good and simple way. I got that problem on my Car. Where is your place? Could I go there?
Hello. I’m in NJ. Where are you?
What brand silicone lube did u use? I bought blaster industrial strength silicone lubricant.
I use CRC - generally speaking, based on availability - Blaster is fine as well. Just make sure it is clear silicone. Not the foamy white stuff
(Liked and subbed) I just bought an 11 mustang v6. Strong gas smell on the interior. Perfectly healthy idle and fuel economy, but it’s so powerful it’s nauseating. I’m planning on doing the cleaning as you performed tmrw, but I was just curious if you think the cleaning and valve change could cause this? If so i don’t mind trying this then send to mechanic to check hoses if they don’t work. If in your experience the valve doesn’t result in strong smell I’ll just let them find it on their own. Also, I heard this suction noise in the cabin on acceleration by the left vent, not sure if that related or a separate issue. Nonetheless wonderful content! Very well done!
Edit: One more question, should I be inspecting the o-rings on the injectors as well? It’s more of a project car so I have the time and was curious if you came across it
Hey there - thanks for your kind words! Can you tell if the gas odor is in front or rear of vehicle? The purge valve can make a fuel odor under hood. Sometimes the entire filler neck is rotting leaking vapors in back - or vent valve at canister
Great video. My V6 mustang 2012 is missing the rubber piece that permits you to push the fuel door open. Is this a complete filler neck replacement? Thanks.
ALT Institute - the plastic surround that goes around metal filler neck is a separate piece. It clips in with no screws. It also has the rubber covered ‘spring pin’ that allows fuel door to latch shut and spring open when door is pushed on
Hello, I have a 2015 mustang but the code detected was P0442 which stands for “Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected” Also, every time I put gas, my car has a strong smell of gas that lasts for 1 day
Roberto Soto - you may need to replace the filler neck
Make sure that the guy pumping your gas is not topping off your tank! They have to be told not to do this and why not to do it. If the tank gets too much gas from being topped off it will push gas past the tank vent valve and introduce raw fuel into the vapor canister! This system is designed to only take gas vapor or what is referred to as hydrocarbons and store them in charcoal inside the canister until the computer tells the purge solenoid to open and suck them into the intake manifold and burn them when it is ready for this to happen. It can also set off a check engine light for a rich fuel code from pouring liquid fuel instead of vapors in the engine.😉
Would this make my fusion struggle to start after filling with fuel? I have to rev it for 2 minutes after filling with fuel every time now. I’ve already replace the purge and evap a year ago. Never tried the filler cap
Likely the under-hood valve the culprit. The purge valve … also shown in video
@@AutomotiveEZ I did the blow test and it didn’t let air through out of the car. But I took that out and cleaned it with no luck
@@mrmidnight32 Hello. Did you change the purge valve under the hood? To be clear, you’d follow the evap pipe underhood - where the valve has input and output side. Output must go to Intake or throttle body if you have the right valve. After replacement all codes DTC’s need to be cleared. Engine lamp would be off if they clear correctly. Then you need a good long steady road test on highway to reset monitors. If CEL returns during road test vehicle needs a fresh scan to see what code is set. Sometimes old code goes away and a new code sets in post repair
@@mrmidnight32I am and going through this currently and didn’t start replacements yet 😢 did you ever get it resolved?
Thank you,you are Great .
Stay safe and healthy all.
Thanks so much. God Bless you. You stay healthy as well:)
I kept getting “check fuel fill inlet” eventually engine light came on & now my MPG is slowly going down & getting way less gas on a full tank. Do you think it could be the fuel filler neck or purge valve?
It can be either. I will say those fuel necks rust out and leak vapors when they get old. I have changed many! And the purge valve is easy to change too
so I have a 2011 Ford Edge and about 3 and so weeks ago I got an engine light on and ran and OBD2 scanner tool and got a P0456 code and went ahead and replace the the Purge Valve and reset the code engine light went away and now today the engine light came on once again, ran the scanner once more and got the same code P0456 (small valve leak) at this point before I go ahead and get this diagnosed by a mechanic what else should a look for or try?
Best regards,
Ashroller22 - if you have the Easy Fill you can clean it like in this video. You should also physically inspect all the evap tubes the best you can with your eyes. But the best way is a smoke test and a scanner to turn on / off the purge valve and vent valve and so on. Make sure they have power and work correctly. The latter steps are best done at a shop
So after doing all this do I erase the codes then see if it still shows up after, or do I wait to see if they come off?
Elvis Briseno - Erase them if you’re able as you’ll get a quicker end result. The Evap monitor would run after clearing (when conditions are met) and if code pops back on in a few days or a week you’d have to go further. One bit of advice is keep fuel level between 1/4 and 3/4 tank as evap monitors don’t tend to run with empty or full tanks. Thx for commenting, pls subscribe!
Can I use a regular auto lubricant?
Just clear silicone! Petroleum based lubes can eat up plastic and rubber. Silicone only. Be well
Which location of the code p0456 be in? The purge valve or the gas location?
Mark Zhuravel - Heya. It does not work that way. A P0456 indicates a fairly small Evap System leak. It is not specific to a particular part failure. A multitude of different Evap part failures can cause this code. Even a leak in a tube. The system needs to be tested by a competent technician
AutomotiveEZ thanks for the reply. So I’m looking at my gas location and it’s very dirty and there is lots of dust. I’m very positive that this could be the problem.
Mark Zhuravel - Well any dirt or debris can be an issue at fill location. You should clean filler neck and install new gas cap if it is a cap style system. If easy fill - follow my video. Clear codes and retest
AutomotiveEZ alright thank you! I’ll let you know if I do fix it if I don’t forget.
Mark Zhuravel - Great. And pls subscribe
After doing this, does the check engine light goes off without resetting the electronics>?thank u
If a DTC Related issue is actually repaired successfully - the DTC will be cleared by vehicle computer (PCM / ECU / ECM - Whatever you prefer to call it) However, this can take a real long time. Some DTC's need to be "clear" in the eyes of the vehicle's on board PCM for 20, 30 or even 40 drive cycles. Way better off going to a shop to clear it or buy a $25 pocket code reader. Because to me - it's much better to clear it and then drive - to see if it comes back. Time is of the element. No need to wait 20-40 days when you can just clear the code cheaply of for free. I do believe autozone and advance check and clear codes for free.
No nonsense video, we’ll done.
Thanks!
Liked and subscribed! Would this work for p0443? (2010 V6 mustang)
Metronome Senpai - Hi. That code is for Purge Control Circuit. So it can be the Valve, wiring or even PCM. Probably best You take to a shop. Or if you want to try yourself - purge valve may fox you up
I have a small evap leak on a 2016 Ford Escape what do you recommend me doing first?
Have a smoke test performed - but check filler neck first
Have a P0456 on 2014 Edge. Goign to try cleaning EF area first. can a Blaster dry lube with Teflone be used? or only silicone lubricant? this says "Safe for use on plastics - does NOT contain silicone or chlorinated solvents". Thanks
I’d simply use dry silicone aka clear silicone. I know it hurts no seals
Mines say p0455 took it to auto zone n the code said a egr vacuum solenoid but can’t find no video to get it fixed my gas only last a day or two
The EGR system would not set a P0455 code. The 0455 code is for evaporative emissions system. The EGR is a separate system. So you may have more then one issue. You should find a REAL mechanic near you to inspect it. It may cost a few bucks but is worth it in the end
Great video. Thank you for making it.
Thanks much :)
I'm getting a code p0456 on my 2010 Mustang V6. Where is the purge valve on my car? The purge valve location in this video must be in a different location on my vehicle.
Your Mustang is older. Different engine brother. Not a 3.7 but a 4.0 V6 - pretty sure your purge valve is near air box lid / strut tower / and not on intake like the 3.7
My v6 has a slight iddle issue can it be the purge valve? No codes are present
A Purge Valve leaking can def cause a rough idle
Totally unrelated question but what edition is this vehicle? I have a 14 Mustang and my grill does not look like this. Mine is a ford logo and a honeycomb pattern. Is this an aftermarket grill? I would really like to get this type of grill for mine.
Billy Bob - Hey Billy. GREAT question. The car in my video is indeed a SPECIAL edition. It’s a 2013 Mustang MCA. So, MCA - stands for “Mustang Club of America. It’s mostly a trim and wheel package. However the V6 in this car is 305 HP. And the one in my video has a 6 spd manual. It is very fast! The grille is an MCA Grille - hence the very unique look it has. It’s slatted and looks like aluminum. Ford calls it a billet grille but I never checked to see what it is made of, lol However it looks awesome. In a nutshell - go to a Ford Dealer and pick up a Mustang MCA grille. Emblem may come separate.. I think the MCA was made from 2011-2014. Pls subscribe and thx for posting!
I have a question about the purge valve on a 2017 Ford Escape 1.5 L Ecoboost Engine. Is it the same purge valve as is in this video? I can't seem to find it when googling the only result I get is what appears to be a hose.
Sorry for delay! The ecoboost has a totally different Purge Valve and Design. You should look it up by application. (year/make/model and engine) Also - harder to install on an ecoboost. Best to have it diagnosed first if you're unsure.
The bottom nipple how do i check it determining if its opening or closing as it should of that valve for evap emmissions for code P0456... ?
Ford Publishes test procedures for all DTC’s just like all car makes do. You need to get the P0456 test for your specific vehicle - and perform it. The actual (various) emissions valve can be tested with a vacuum pump and power probe - off vehicle
Hey have a 2016 fusion se ecoboost 1.5L4... Engine code p4150 came up... Is that the purge valve??.. Like the same piece you had installed under your hood?
Hi. I'm pretty sure you meant to type "P1450" for the code you have. Yes, it "may" be related to the Purge Valve but does not have to be. All the "various" Evaporative Emissions related codes - can have different reasons for being there (the root failure) So, with that said, it can be a Purge valve but can also be a Vent Solenoid, a tank pressure sensor, kinks in tubing or other blockages. And even many more items than that. This is why it's best to see a qualified Shop and Tech to diagnose it. My video is more to show that "many evap codes" can be fixed up with these simple parts that most anyone can change / check and clean - like that filler neck. They are always neglected. My procedure may save you some money. But it's a gamble, unless the system is actually tested first and a fault is found. Evap systems are one of the hardest to diagnose (time consuming) because there are SO MANY parts and SO MUCH plumbing from rear fuel tank up to engine. And everything is controlled by the PCM. Hope this helps!
@@AutomotiveEZ ok awesome, I will definitely take it to a shop just to get a 2nd opinion on this... Thanks a lot sir 👍🏾👍🏾
stunnaman19 welcome!
I have 2018 ford focus hatchback going to try the gas area then go to the front .: where do I order stuff from
If you need any fuel system parts I’d use a Ford Dealer parts counter. Aftermarket parts are usually junk
Thanks for posting and making this video..great video..
James dubs - Thx much!
I have 2015 f150 and the inlet look different. I think I have the one with new design. Do you have any idea how to clean my inlet?
son vu - Hello there. If you watched my video, carefully... You’ll see the FORD furnishes their “easy fuel - easy fill” vehicles with a “funnel / filler adapter” - with the vehicle - when it’s built. Your vehicle should have this funnel - which is used if you run out of fuel (so you can fill tank using a can) If you can locate this funnel just run it in and out of fill flap with clear silicone. It’s all in my video. Does not matter if it’s a newer version - as of now - at least
AutomotiveEZ thanks for your reply. My inlet has two layers of flap. The plastic outside and another one inside. I will try your method with a screwdriver to open the outside flap and clean the inside one. Hope it will work out. Thanks a lot.
AutomotiveEZ also, can I use silicone WD-40? www.walmart.com/ip/WD-40-Specialist-Water-Resistant-Silicone-Lubricant-with-SMART-STRAW-SPRAYS-2-WAYS-11-OZ/21838836
son vu - Can you post an image so I can see it? Again - if the vehicle has the “fuel adapter” in luggage area I’d use that instead of a home made object
AutomotiveEZ here is the video I took ruclips.net/video/lNRSfgKhPEE/видео.html
Question: no problem filling the tank on my 2015 Escape, but after filling. It's a hard start...almost won't start. Haven't done a code source check yet.
Suggest new purge valve
Thanks! @@AutomotiveEZ
@@ejneenan9329 You’re welcome. Is an inexpensive - first step. A hung up purge valve will cause an extended crank many times. If it does not help please see a local mechanic you trust. Be well
Have you ever cleared the codes then recheck it and it still picks it up? Basically, you clear it and recheck it to make sure it cleared but it still remains? The scanner pciked up a few codes and those cleared but one code p0455 just will not clear but so far no light has come on.
Tony P - Turn key on - engine off. Clear codes. As soon as tool clears codes - key off. Pull tool. Then start and drive briefly. If p0455 is there immediately you likely have an electrical issue - shorted or open circuit. That would (usually) explain (most) any code that comes back instantly. Because otherwise it takes time for circuit to self test via monitors. And I can’t diagnose a code over a computer. So this is simply general advise! No promises intended
@@AutomotiveEZ No light on the dash even with code stored?
Tony P - That can happen easily! Codes that set in ecu may not turn on check engine lamp until the ecu sees them for several drive cycles. That is a fact. The lamp is a driver alert. The code is validated before lamp is engaged. All is based on the software logic
@@AutomotiveEZ So I take it, it will not pass test then with that code and no light on? Also waiting for the readiness to be complete but I know the evap system can take time. Thanks for your help by the way..
TPUSILL - Yes - cannot pass test with code stored! Light or no light
So the pigtail connector right above that evap line in the purge valve the clip is broken and it doesn’t click back into place when I push it back on- could that cause a P0456?? I’ve cleaned the inside of the valve, and the easy fill like shown and it didn’t resolve the issue but then when putting it back together that connector could slide on and off because the clip broke on it wasn’t sure if that would do it.. any opinion?
@@michaelisbae734 The connector lock tab breaks on those commonly. Not unusual. A new pigtail can be spliced in. Motorcraft used to have them available. If not, you can actually use some weather strip calk. 3M Brand - Part # 08578 - put a smidge of calk strip on inside of connector - hollow part - not near the metal contact points. Push it on til seated… Is a sorta rubbery dum-dum strip. Never hardens… remains pliable but the connector will not come loose if you do it right. The box has a bunch of 12“ strips but you only need a tiny piece more like a “dot” size piece
@@AutomotiveEZ will try this and update you when I finished it hopefully it’ll clear that code. Also I appreciate you taking the time to reply despite this video being posted a long time ago haha, Thank you again
@@michaelisbae734 you are very welcome :)
Thank you
Welcome!
Awesome video, thanks for the info!!
Carl welch - Thanks!
Thank you so much, great job. All made good sence. 🏁🏁🏁🏁😀.
Dirt Berger - Thank you!
So what type of problem is this purge valve causing, why you changed it, what was going on with this car?
Shaun French - generally a P0455 or rough idle. Sometimes a small leak code as well. This car was fixed by this process
I have a 2008 mercury mountaineer v6 4.0 and I'm having this issue. P0455 code. I got all plugs and wires and coil pack replaced . Also put in seafoam a week ago nd ran it til empty and refilled with fresh gas. I changed evap solenoid already still there. It's been to like 4 shops and they couldn't figure it out. Could I use this same method? I also have no gas cap
Hi Jennajone45 - Yes - all Ford “easy fill” capless vehicles can be cleaned this way using factory funnel. But if you have a P0455 (large evap leak) you likely need to replace ENTIRE FILLER NECK. Cleaning only seems to help w/ smaller leaks. Also there are at least 2 Evap solenoids on ANY vehicle & some have many more than that. Purge solenoids and vent solenoids are most common offenders - they fail. Unfortunately the Ford Easy Fill neck seems to fail at 7-10 years / sometimes sooner. I have changed many! Lastly you can have a broken Evap pipe. A good shop would smoke test it to pinpoint issue but seems most shops are terrible these days. Best of luck!
@@AutomotiveEZ thank you I will try all of this. I'll start with shop first and see where it get.
Won’t silicone be dangerous if it got in your tank/engine?
Matthew Stokes - spraying it like this - not at all. Won’t hurt a thing
Did the silicone spray on the flapper hinges, replaced the canister purge valve and the code is still popping up even after clearing. I’m guessing new filler neck is the next step?
Matthew Stokes - hey there.. what code do you have?
Matthew Stokes - Hey there buddy - a proper smoke test would be best! However - these filler necks do fail too. I changes a couple already on Fords and had great success. For small / medium leaks. Best of luck!
Thanks! You guys are awesome to reply. I really appreciate it. One last question. Would there be anything in between a new filler neck and the canister purge valve that could possibly be the problem?
What spray do you use?
Heya... any CLEAR silicone spray is fine. Like CRC or any name brand. Just make sure it is clear - they also make white silicone which is sticky and heavy. Clear is like water and does not attract dirt. The can may say “CLEAR, Heavy Duty Silicone” on it
Would this method work for the 2017 mustang gt?
May replace the canister purge valve but figured to try this first
Pete Vandenberg - Hi. You can use this method on any Ford vehicle that has “easy-fill” style system. It helps to try this first before going to a shop
Hi Pete, did it work for you? I have a 2015 mustang with the same problem
Could the error code P0456 cause low mileage??
That is a great question. And I have the answer. However - depends on root cause. For example a P0456 can be a leak near fuel tank - smaller size leak if compared to say, a P0455. However - a 456 leak that say was stemming from a purge valve seal being intermittent - that in fact may effect fuel mileage and may even cause a rough idle. Codes stored in vehicles can originate from multiple sources of failure. No ONE code has an exact origin. I hope this helps. Be well
@@AutomotiveEZ i replced the canister purge valve, but check engine light remined even after reset. Would you say replacing the filler neck would solve this issue?? Thanks in advance ! Subscribed!
@@george5697 Hi George. The top “failed” parts I’ve done on Ford for this code - under hood Purge Valve and/or Filler Neck - the other item is canister Vent Valve. Look at filler neck under car for rust. When they get real rusty they do leak vapors - especially the Easy Fill style filler pipe
@@AutomotiveEZ Thank you so much, it's hard to find a good mechanic around my town, thank you very much!
@@george5697 you’re very welcome my friend. Be well sir :)
Thanks
You’re welcome :)
Is the motor part also found on the gt.. and what’s it’s called again..
Daniel - The parts that ate shown in my video are only the EASY Fill Neck and Purge Valve. They are both used on GT as well. There was no motor (electrical motor or otherwise) shown here
I hava a Ford Fiesta 2015 and the check engine litgh Start to show up, a friend scan the car and mark P1450 code,the car sometimes i Charge fuel and start the car the engine went off, ten y justo rey again and no problem , this tips can help me?
Hi Juan - with the P1450 you most likely have a bad Purge Valve under hood or bad Vent Valve at tank area. I’d start with Purge Valve and use a Motorcraft Part. Hope this helps
I have ford focus hatchback 2018 I have this code I need help it says small evap leak
Sorry I had missed this comment in past. Do you still need help?
Would this problem cause the fuel reading to be incorrect as well on fuel gauge?
Hi Jay - NO SIR! Definitely not related at all. I can assure you
@@AutomotiveEZ would you possibly know what would cause that?
@@jayredhouse - generally the tank sending unit - or cluster where gauge is - however can even be in wiring. I can’t say for sure unless I tested car myself
I have same issue any fixes marks 1/4 under what it has
I have a problem and my car is Ford Escape 2010 There is no stability in the gear motor when I just stand and there is a code p0456
Code 456 is either an evaporative emission leak or a faulty valve
Hello, I have a 2019 Ford Fusion my code is P04EF and I can’t seem to find any videos exactly with that code but these codes come up could it be the same situation? Please anything helps.
That code is generally for a hybrid car and is small evap leak. Could be a purge valve or leak detection module. Have a good mechanic look it over
Thanks!!
Be well my Brother
Sir do you what this code is for P04F0
Romil Sabroso - generally evap tubes but needs diagnosis by professional shop
Could there be a leak in the tubes ?
Angel - Absolutely. In fact I do mention that in my video. There can be a multitude of reasons - for why these codes set
Anyone know why the rubber seal around the fuel tank door would be melting? My vehicle has a gas cap. Wondering if there any fume leaks near the main fuel kneck would cause the rubber seal to melt on the fuel tank door? Its the seal around the front fuel door i notice melting. Never noticed that before. I did get a tighten gas cap indicator light on dash. I did go to dealer and replaced the cap and eventually check engine light came on. I scanned the code and got a P0455 code that states Evaporative Emissions System Leak Detected (Gross Leak/No Flow) what do yall think? Bad Fuel kneck or?
When the fuel tank door is closed its clearly visible that the fuel tank rubber seal is melting. Weird.
Hi Gary - what is the year and model of your car? That will help me give you a proper response. Thanks.
@@AutomotiveEZ Hello. Its a 2014 Chevy Captiva Sport LT Front Wheel Drive 2.4L 4 CYL.
Good tips!
Glad it was helpful!
Going to shoot my shot. Hey there I have p0456 2013 escape 1.6 ecoboost :/ so I tried doing the thumb test to see if suction but the issue is you can’t just take the purge valve apart. It’s the whole system assembly. Anyway, tried that but I didn’t get suction before or after I disconnected the power to it. So I’m lost. I’m a do it yourself guy but I’m so lost in this. It’s my wife’s car, only has issue starting after fueling up. That’s all. Guessing I need to get the whole Evap system. What do you think? Thanks
I’ve found the canister on autozone, looks like the goes towards the bottom end next to the inter cooler or bottom corner of radiator. Idk what’s really there lol but it’s either the canister or valve. Now I got more questions. Wow.
Ben - if it’s hard to start up after a refuel - start with UNDER-HOOD Purge Valve. The valve is part of the tube assembly on 1.6 EcoBoost... It’s Plug n Play after you figure out the quick disconnect fittings. Part # for your escape should be CV6Z9D289T. However, confirm part # before buying. And follow tubes under hood before buying to make sure you’re comfy doing this job. If not - go to dealer. Because the average shop will install cheap crap white box part. I only use Motorcraft on Fords at my shop. Best of luck!
@@AutomotiveEZ hey thank for the reply and your personal time friend. I’ll type it out fully. I actually just took my first look for the fix about an hour ago. Been having trouble starting only after fueling for months now. I knew what happened I just don’t know exactly what to replace. It’s different than any other Evap system just because the purge valve doesn’t seem to disconnect from the system. Replacing the whole thing looks easy enough. I’m just trying to see if I can buy just the purge valve for 30$ rather than buy the whole system for 100$. Thanks and sorry for my confusion. I’m going to research if it could be the solenoid instead
@@RBoysMedia - yes one pipe goes to tube that goes to intercooler if my memory serves. I would only use Motorcraft parts if it were up to me lol
@@AutomotiveEZ but like I said I tried doing the thumb trick, didn’t seem to get suction with connector plugged in or not. Guessing purge valve is stuck closed
is this method works for p0442 code
@@sumanth2042 442 and also 455 - small leak usually is valve issue and larger leak generally at filler neck. GENERALLY
@@AutomotiveEZ i changed duralast valve from autozone but still cel on..do you think canister or filler neck
So I have a 2017 Fiesta, accidentally started it with the fuel door open. Started rough and now check engine light is on. I tried the fuel door trick but can’t find anything else on it.
Steve Miller - is it an EZ fill system - meaning NO CAP AT ALL. Let me know
AutomotiveEZ Yeah, I just put the gas pump in and it fills it. No cap on it. And the gas door has that rubber seal around it as well.
Steve Miller - so it is possible you need a new filler neck - since it’s a cap-less system. The seal on the gas door is just a dust seal and does not seal tank at all
Im years late, but did u ever find out your issue and fix it
@@Louisianasfinestshay I had to have the fuel filler neck replaced. But it was under warranty at the time so it cost me like $100
Im getting code p04f0 on 2019 fiesta st any sollutions?
HyunWulf Moon - Hi. That code is a bit generic and likely off an inexpensive “pocket” scanner. Is likely evap related purge or vent issue. I need a solid P-CODE or Manufacturer Code to work off. Easily had off a real scanner
Hi, what could cause P0442 and P0456 error codes together?
Hey - you could have a small / medium leak with those codes. Should have it smoke tested for leaks.. Also - any valve in system not sealing 100 percent can trigger those codes.
@@AutomotiveEZ thank you
I have cleaned the gas inlet and reset the codes and have done over 450 kms so far.. no codes have come up yet in the scan.. how many kilometers will it take for the system to check for leaks in the evap system
@@WrightStrenghtandAgility You can pick up a pocket scanner that pulls codes and displays READINESS MONITOR STATUS as well. A steady drive on highway usually does the trick for most monitor resets. But you need to vary speed and do some long decels foot off gas etc. Monitor drive strategy can be found in most repair manuals online under emissions section. Be well!
@@WrightStrenghtandAgility PS - Monitors can reset in 40 miles or less if driven correctly from a cold start. Gas tank should be between 1/4 and 3/4 filled. Not empty or full! Because then, that monitor will not run. Gotta check readiness status along the way as well
What about P1450?
P1450 is not related to anything in my video. A P1450 needs diagnostics
@@AutomotiveEZ Ford states P1450 has to do with purge valve and canister, but my canister is fine. We are replacing the purge valve which also seemed to test fine. I have found dirt and water around my filler neck pocket, however.
It's this relevant to a P0451 code?
That's all what I got
pinetarsoap - That is for evap pressure sensor circuit. Have it diagnosed
Whats the name of the spray you used??
Johnsen silicone spray but you can also use CRC brand. Just make sure it is clear silicone. Not white silicone. Not petroleum based either. Plain silicone
@@AutomotiveEZ thanks alot
@@alexsandoval5012 no problem… be well
Sound like howard stern
LMAO
U didn't show the spray your using
In the video I mentioned to only use a clear silicone. Not a petroleum lube. The brand name does not matter. However - I generally use CRC brand clear silicone. Clear silicone sprays out like water. There is a white silicone product on market.. that looks like lithium grease and is sticky… Stay away from white silicone when it comes to gas tank and evap seals
so if wd is hard on seal,,,,lol,,what a bout"""drum roll""" gas...??? Do engineers think before they party at Ford?
Hey there - I do not think WD40 or Clear Silicone is hard on any filler neck parts at all. Or seals.. I do know BRAKE CLEAN is very harsh, lol. It is more corrosive than Gas. Gas was way better before they decided to add all the Ethanol - which dries out rubber parts and is corrosive. We have too much alcohol / Ethanol in fuel
👍👏💪😁🇺🇲❤🐎🇵🇱. Thanks
Thank You!
what a dumb idea from Ford.....anybody can easy do harm to your car
It seems all car / truck makers are using similar systems. I prefer a cap myself
Got this CODE. 2006 Mustang 4.0L V6
EVAP System Leak Detected
Gross Leak/No Flow
P0456
If the push clip is broken, is it something that requires replacing?
The outer most door - keeps out dirt so it should be functional… thx
I have a 2014 Ford fusion 1.5 that had the P0456 code. More than likely my gas cap less tank is just dirty so where exactly would I spray wd40 on the flap or around it ?
No - do not use WD40. Only clear silicone for tank seals and hoses and use sparingly. You should have the code diagnosed at a shop if you see nothing obvious
Thanks!
Welcome 👍
Thank you