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@@renedelafuente123 You’re welcome. But keep in mind I have replaced many filler necks on Mustang and other Ford products that are all capless. They tend to rot out under car behind quarter panel where you cannot see it from outside. However, I still got many working again with the simple clean up and a new purge valve. I only clean the non rusty ones at work but my advantage is having a real lift to first inspect undercarriage. Be well!

I do believe this particular Frontier was a 2019. It was a QR25DE series (2.5L)

@@rodneyallgire6864 Thank you sir. Usually if I do that - or, you saw it on any video here , is because I hooked up scanner (to control the valve remotely) or used a fused power probe. Why? To feel with hand and/or hear it click on and off. That generally is a solid test unless valve cannot hold vacuum which is on mechanical side. Thanks again

Your Mustang is older. Different engine brother. Not a 3.7 but a 4.0 V6 - pretty sure your purge valve is near air box lid / strut tower / and not on intake like the 3.7

@@michaelisbae734 The connector lock tab breaks on those commonly. Not unusual. A new pigtail can be spliced in. Motorcraft used to have them available. If not, you can actually use some weather strip calk. 3M Brand - Part # 08578 - put a smidge of calk strip on inside of connector - hollow part - not near the metal contact points. Push it on til seated… Is a sorta rubbery dum-dum strip. Never hardens… remains pliable but the connector will not come loose if you do it right. The box has a bunch of 12“ strips but you only need a tiny piece more like a “dot” size piece

@@AutomotiveEZ will try this and update you when I finished it hopefully it’ll clear that code. Also I appreciate you taking the time to reply despite this video being posted a long time ago haha, Thank you again

@@michaelisbae734 you are very welcome :)

@@urbansolis hello - disconnecting the EPS is not a good idea. I suggest visiting a local shop or dealer to have it properly diagnosed

@@sumanth2042 442 and also 455 - small leak usually is valve issue and larger leak generally at filler neck. GENERALLY

@@AutomotiveEZ i changed duralast valve from autozone but still cel on..do you think canister or filler neck

@@Midass2007 welcome

@@Joeoshea1957 thank you sir.. be well

Lol, looks like you and I have the same problem. I filled up my tank to full last night and now I have this P0456 code.. 2021 Mustang GT.

@@ricopopman5038 Welcome. Be well!

@@amyhoj9321 Be well! :)

Welcome 👍

😊

Welcome and be well

Likely the under-hood valve the culprit. The purge valve … also shown in video

@@AutomotiveEZ I did the blow test and it didn’t let air through out of the car. But I took that out and cleaned it with no luck

@@mrmidnight32 Hello. Did you change the purge valve under the hood? To be clear, you’d follow the evap pipe underhood - where the valve has input and output side. Output must go to Intake or throttle body if you have the right valve. After replacement all codes DTC’s need to be cleared. Engine lamp would be off if they clear correctly. Then you need a good long steady road test on highway to reset monitors. If CEL returns during road test vehicle needs a fresh scan to see what code is set. Sometimes old code goes away and a new code sets in post repair

@@mrmidnight32I am and going through this currently and didn’t start replacements yet 😢 did you ever get it resolved?

Thanks much. Be well :)

Welcome ;)

Thx and be well :)

Welcome… be well

Thanks very much. Your words are super KIND. Be assured - I do appreciate you. If the video helped at all that was the goal. :) . Have a great day!

Welcome sir :)

Yes the cowl gets plugged up as well. It is frustrating but the Mustang has been very reliable vehicle especially since 80's forward.

​@AutomotiveEZ thanks! Yes, been VERY reliable, had my 09 for 15 years and 175k, only issue I've had is that coolant fitting that breaks on the 4.0 v6. Then just some weird quirks like this and the darn cowlgetting plugged. .. thanks for the video!

Lol you’re funny - thanks so much :)

Appreciate, additional input, and hope it helps some viewers. To clarify, for viewers, he is distinguishing between the Shift Lever version, Vs. the Rotary Knob. Thanks.

@@AutomotiveEZ you’re welcome! These videos are such a big help. Any time I can add additional info I will!

@@jamesmix78 sounds great!

Haha. You had me laughing! GREAT COMMENTS… Sure was a soggy era. If you clean the doors - and cowl pan under hood where cabin air filter is - that helps a lot. Also make sure A/C drain in HVAC case is clear. I should try to make those other videos sometime. Thanks for comments and you’re welcome :)

My vehicle had no knee bags. However I’m familiar. If you have those bags definitely disconnect battery and follow manufacturer suggestions on time lapse before terminal disconnection. Hope this helps. Thanks

You are welcome. Be well

The outer most door - keeps out dirt so it should be functional… thx

Lol you just made me laugh out loud. Lol. Thanks very much. Happy to be of some help

That is a great question. And I have the answer. However - depends on root cause. For example a P0456 can be a leak near fuel tank - smaller size leak if compared to say, a P0455. However - a 456 leak that say was stemming from a purge valve seal being intermittent - that in fact may effect fuel mileage and may even cause a rough idle. Codes stored in vehicles can originate from multiple sources of failure. No ONE code has an exact origin. I hope this helps. Be well

@@AutomotiveEZ i replced the canister purge valve, but check engine light remined even after reset. Would you say replacing the filler neck would solve this issue?? Thanks in advance ! Subscribed!

@@george5697 Hi George. The top “failed” parts I’ve done on Ford for this code - under hood Purge Valve and/or Filler Neck - the other item is canister Vent Valve. Look at filler neck under car for rust. When they get real rusty they do leak vapors - especially the Easy Fill style filler pipe

@@AutomotiveEZ Thank you so much, it's hard to find a good mechanic around my town, thank you very much!

@@george5697 you’re very welcome my friend. Be well sir :)

Hi - use any CLEAR silicone spray. CRC is a good brand. If you have a code reader for OBD port you can clear lamp yourself but drive time required to see if lamp comes back on or not depending on success of repair

@@AutomotiveEZ okay, not air? Saw some people using that. Thanks!!

@@karinaxo3442 Hi, you may blow compressed air - gently - to remove any debris. The lubricant (only silicone) is used afterwards

Hey there… I would call Ford Dealer Parts Dept and tell them you need the plastic plug for bottom of door drains…. It’s not really a plug, because water flows through it.. so it’s sort of a plastic screen/grille. I’m just not sure of it’s true name

Thx much

I do appreciate your words. I try to never talk about unrelated nonsense and simply focus on the repairs, or task at hand. Thank you!

Welcome buddy

It is not a bad idea. But after the disconnect you have to reset clock - radio and basic settings

Thanks much for the kind words. Very happy the video helped you out - be well

Suggest new purge valve

Thanks! @@AutomotiveEZ

@@ejneenan9329 You’re welcome. Is an inexpensive - first step. A hung up purge valve will cause an extended crank many times. If it does not help please see a local mechanic you trust. Be well

Maybe try to start with flushing of bottom of door first as outlined in video and then see how it behaves after? It’s a solid starting point. Thx for posting!

I appreciate. Happy to help

P1450 is not related to anything in my video. A P1450 needs diagnostics

@@AutomotiveEZ Ford states P1450 has to do with purge valve and canister, but my canister is fine. We are replacing the purge valve which also seemed to test fine. I have found dirt and water around my filler neck pocket, however.

Do you have two studs with nuts and two bolts on your column? There are various configurations

The EGR system would not set a P0455 code. The 0455 code is for evaporative emissions system. The EGR is a separate system. So you may have more then one issue. You should find a REAL mechanic near you to inspect it. It may cost a few bucks but is worth it in the end

You just need to be careful and aware as you lower column down. If any harness is being stretched - then you unplug. Hyundai and Kia have at least 3 different configurations of this column - where motor is mounted in diff area. In my video - I left it plugged in because it was possible. I’m a career mechanic and everything I post is factual. No editing either. Thx for posting and best wishes

Thanks for your video. I finally changed the rubber bushing and that fixes my steering noise. Your way is one of the easy and quickest. For a first timer...took me a little over an hour.

Thank you

Thank you for the kind words